Upshift Issue 80 - April 2023

MAKE LIFE A DARING ADVENTURE

Routines are only boring if you allow them to be. Equipped with spoked wheels, the new KTM 390 ADVENTURE is ready for more challenging terrain. Now you can sneak in a little offroad action and inject some adrenaline into your daily commute. #DARETOADV FIND OUT MORE AT KTM.COM

CHOOSE TO HAVE IT ALL

With world-beating capability and all-road comfort, the new 7.9 gallon tank, shaft-driven Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer is the ultimate large capacity adventure motorcycle.

Powered by a new 1200 triple engine, the unique T-Plane design blends the low-speed capability of a twin with the top-end performance of a triple, for impeccable off road control and effortless touring capability. Add to that an all-new chassis that’s significantly lighter and more agile, plus a feature-packed, high specification of equipment throughout, including long-travel, semi-active suspension and the new Triumph Blind Spot Radar system, for outstanding all-road capability in comfort and style. The all-new Tiger 1200 Rally Explorer. It’s time to reset your adventure expectations. From $24,695 MSRP. Find out more at triumphmotorcycles.com

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

Turn journeys into expeditions.

reach far-off, epic landscapes and discover diverse cultures. supported by 240 mm of high-end wp xplor suspension, the new norden 901 expedition has all the features you need to travel further. all

it takes is a turn of the wheels and whole new worlds are within reach.

Photo:

PAY TO PLAY

The age of subscription services has long since dawned, and now the marketplace is saturated with pay-to-play products. What started as a business model for newspapers and rental outlets has become our modern economy’s favorite money-maker. While they come in various styles, it doesn’t take much attention to see that subscriptions have inundated the market.

There’s no doubt that recurring, small-dollar subscription fees have proven most profitable for many businesses over a long period, but at what point do paywalls become a meaningless cash grab? It is hard to argue against regular payments for vital safety services or convenient entertainment consumables because people have been willing to pay for these products for generations. Recently, however, we have seen subscriptions take a new leap.

Some new vehicles and technologies are now being sold with all the hardware necessary for a premium experience, only to be locked behind an unavoidable monthly fee. Digital design tools like fonts and color pallets, which have been free or purchasable for decades, are suddenly only accessible via subscription. And in many cases, memberships are the only keys to unlocking entire archives of previously available goods like music, maps, games, movies, and more.

This growing trend begs the question of ownership. If a manufacturer of a physical good or a distributor of a digital good ultimately has the power to withhold product features that the consumer has paid for, does the buyer really own the product? Every industry will have to wrestle with questions like this across its consumers, manufacturers, and providers… and the motorcycle industry is no different. Every corner of the marketplace must deal with what feels like an explosion of greed and decide whether its members will buy and sell according to this emerging impulse.

When products are increasingly held captive by memberships and subscriptions, it is difficult to feel like the market is still fueled by consumer choices. Fortunately, however, public perceptions of products and brands do indeed have long-term effects, and when companies are willing to prove that they can balance profitability and consumer interests, positive recognition will pay off for both parties in the end.

Upshift Staff

Garmin Tread - 5.5” Powersport Navigator With Group Ride Radio

Roam the unknown with the Garmin® Tread® Base Edition Powersport GPS Navigator. This rugged, 5.5” powersport navigator brings preloaded topography for better off-road adventures. Created specifically for powersport enthusiasts, Tread is built to withstand extreme terrains, temperatures, and weather. This Garmin GPS navigator includes topographic maps of North and Central America, US public and private land boundaries, US Forest Service roads and trails with Motor Vehicle Use Maps, and downloadable, subscription-free BirdsEye Satellite Imagery. Pair with a compatible inReach® satellite communicator (not included) to stay in touch globally. The included Group Ride Radio allows tracking for up to 20 riders with no cellular coverage needed. Plus, the push-to-talk fist mic lets you easily stay in communication with your Group Ride friends. Pair Tread with your helmet or headset (not included) enabled with BLUETOOTH ® technology for hands-free communication. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Antigravity - Micro-Start XP-3

The Antigravity Batteries Micro-Start XP-3 jump-starter/personal power supply (PPS) is one of the most compact lithium-ion Jump-Starter packs. So small it fits in your hand and easily stows in your saddlebag, making it easy to take back-up power anywhere you go. Never worry about coming back to a dead car battery or USB devices running low on power. The XP-3 solves it all. It can conveniently recharge itself via Micro-USB tip. Take us on your next adventure! Price: $119.00. Available in the Upshift Store Here.

Features

• Antigravity Batteries Micro-Start XP-3 jump-starter / power supply

• Jump-Start cars, trucks, motorcycles, powersports vehicles, more

• Charge & Power two USB devices at once

• Start gas engines up to 5.7 Liter V8

• 200A starting current / 400A peak

• 8,000 mAh capacity

• 6 x 3 x 1 inches

• 10.5 oz

• LED Flashlight built-in

• Carry Case and Accessories included

New Seat Concepts Element Seat For 23+ KTM Models

An Element seat is the ultimate tool for off-road enthusiasts. Whether you’re an aggressive rider looking to get more traction along with unmatched comfort or fighting off a waterlogged seat in the summer and an ice block in the winter. Rain...Snow...Mud or anywhere in between the Element seat is a must have for year-round use.

The Element seat design maintains the same weight dispersing shape as their proven Comfort seat. The cover features an added aggressive style that is comprised entirely of Race 2.0 wire gripper material and four traction ribs at the rear to keep the rider firmly planted. Internally the seat is seam sealed to prevent water from penetrating into the foam. Lastly an additional waterproof barrier is placed between the cover and foam to provide extra protection from the elements.

All Seat Concepts seats are constructed using a foam material that is a much higher quality than OEM seat foam. Their proprietary formula provides a plusher and more active ride, while still offering the necessary amount of support. Go to www.seatconcepts.com for more information.

Mosko Moto Surveyor Pant

Building from the foundation of the Woodsman Enduro Pant, the Surveyor Pant is Mosko’s purpose-built trail riding pant made from durable stretch Cordura ® ripstop for maximum comfort and mobility. Highly durable, highly breathable Schoeller ® Dynatex micro-mesh panels at the knee and seat allow air to flow directly through to your legs getting the ventilation where you need it most. Two zippered cargo pockets stand by to stash your essentials. These pants hit hard and offer everything you need from a technical riding pant.

The Surveyor Pant blends durable stretch materials with targeted breathability to allow freedom of movement and maximum comfort in a wide range of conditions. Articulated for an aggressive riding stance the pants feature an in-the-boot over armor, knee brace compatible fit to accommodate a wide variety of protection and reduce bulk in the back of the knee. Leather panels reinforce high contact zones to protect from heat and additional wear. Inside the boot, a low-profile elastic cuff and stretch mesh reduces bulk for a no-bunch fit. A cinch waist closure provides a secure adjustable fit. When you put it all together, it becomes a streamlined, full-stretch technical trail pant for all conditions and unrestricted riding. Available in 3 colors: Dry Earth, Stargazer, and Wild Curry. Price: $299.00. Go to www.moskomoto.com for more information.

SIMPLY THE BEST

» Electric Start » Diaphragm Clutch for Easier Clutch Pull » Rear Suspension Linkage

» On-Demand Traction Control » Twin Fuel Injectors » Dual Map Choices

» Smooth 4-Stroke Power Delivery » Quick Release Seat Removal

» Easy Access Air Filter Box » Off-Road Light & Meter Package

» Sachs ZF Forks with Tool-Less Adjustability

model shown.

PHOTO: HUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: MOTOMORGANA

PHOTO: HUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES

PHOTO: TRAVIS GILL

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: MOTOMORGANA

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

Available Spring 2023

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2023 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: HUSQVARNA MOTORCYCLES

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: JEROD FOSTER

The new line of Trekker ALASKA cases has been expanded with the arrival of the 56-litre top case, which can hold two modular helmets, the epitome of design and quality. In natural or black powder coated aluminium, equipped with the classic MONOKEY ® Locking System in addition to the innovative WIRELEASE ® system.

ALA36B 36 LTR BLACK PAINTED ALUMINIUM SIDE CASE

ALA44A

TOP CASE MONOKEY 44 LTR, ALSO AVAILABLE IN BLACK

ALA36A 36 LTR NATURAL ALUMINIUM SIDE CASE

ALA56A

TOP CASE MONOKEY 56 LTR, IN NATURAL ALUMINUM. CAN HOLD TWO MODULAR HELMETS

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

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Photos: Marco Campelli, Chad de Alva, Sebas Romero

In November of 2021, Husqvarna Motorcycles launched the Norden 901 – A unique variant of KTM’s 890 platform created to excel at traveling and exploring. You can read our first impressions on the Norden 901 in Issue 6 4 and how it compares to its orange sibling, the KTM 890 Adventure R, Issue 72 . Husqvarna combined the 890’s killer chassis and motor with their own styling and componentry to create a bike that delivers on the advertising: The Norden 901 is an approachable adventure touring bike that crushes miles on road and is capable off-road as long as you’re not smashing whoops or going race pace. In the year and

a half since the Norden’s launch, Husqvarna has watched how a growing community of riders has ridden and modified the Norden 901. It’s this community of riders that inspired Husqvarna to create the Norden 901 Expedition – an evolution of the Norden 901 that is a more capable adventure bike. After two days riding the Norden 901 Expedition all over the Western Cape of South Africa, I can confidently say that Husqvarna has clearly been paying attention – and they’ve built an outstanding adventure bike.

The Norden 901 Expedition gives you more Norden 901 much in the way a tall glass of your favorite beer gives you more beer than a pint glass. A pint of your favorite beer will always be a good thing, but a tall glass is more of a good thing. Husqvarna crafted the Expedition by retaining many of the Norden’s great parts like the chassis, motor, and brakes. Husqvarna then went shopping at sister company WP Suspension and in their Technical Accessories catalog. It’s the suspension changes and the parts that they’ve added to the bike that enhance capability and make the Expedition a turn-key adventure machine.

The WP Apex Suspension from the Norden is replaced with fully adjustable WP Xplor suspension. As a result, front and rear travel is increased to 240mm (9.4 inches, up from 220mm or 8.7 inches in front, and 215mm or 8.5 inches rear), and the fork tubes are now 48mm diameter instead of the Apex’s 43mm. This suspension change increases ground clearance to 270mm (10.6 inches, up from 252mm or 9.9 inches) and seat height by 21mm to 874mm (34.4 inches) or 894mm (35.2 inches) depending on which position the seat is in. The wheelbase grows by 16mm to 1529mm. It’s important to note that while this is the exact same suspension found on KTM’s 890 Adventure R, the Norden 901 Expedition has its own Quinn Cody consulted suspension settings that give the bike a distinct difference from the 890R. More on the suspension in a minute.

From the Technical Accessories catalog, Husqvarna has equipped the Norden 901 Expedition with their connectivity unit, heavy duty skid plate, center stand, ergo heated seat, heated grips, touring windshield, and side bag set. Explorer mode, Husqvarna’s version of KTM’s Rally mode, the must have ride mode where you can select nine levels of traction control intervention on the fly is standard. The sum of these parts is that off the dealer’s floor the bike is ready for any sort of ride. Want to go for an afternoon rip? Drop the bags and you’re good to go. Heading out for a multi-day adventure? Load the bags with your personal kit, add your navigation of choice and go have fun. As a result of these added parts, the Norden 901 Expedition gains 23 pounds over the Norden 901. Purchased separately, the sum of these parts is much greater than the $1300 price increase that the Norden 901 Expedition (MSRP $15,799) commands over the Norden 901 (MSRP $14,499).

To understand just what they’ve created in the Norden 901 Expedition, Husqvarna arranged a twoday ride that would cover several hundred Ks of high-speed primary roads, twisty windy canyon roads, big graded dirt roads, and a proper serving of two tracks and technical trails with a few deep sandy sections for good measure. We were instructed to pack our personal effects in the bike’s side bags, as we camped out between the two ride days. To help set the pace for our ride, the man with the world’s strongest handshake, Mike Horne, and Dakar Legend Cyril Despres jumped in with our group.

As an owner of a Norden 901, hopping on the Norden 901 Expedition for the first time felt a little taller, but otherwise very familiar. The ergo heated seat on the Expedition feels like a slightly more plush version of the Norden’s seat – which for the record is an awesome stock seat. The Expedition’s heated grips share the same grip pattern as the non-heated version, and since they mount on the same bars which are connected to a bike that has the same pegs, tank, side shroud geometry, and many other parts, the Expedition has the same neutral, all-day comfortable ergos as the Norden.

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

WORLD-CLASS DURABILITY AND FUNCTIONALITY / KEEPS YOU DRY AND COMFORTABLE IN GLOBALLY DIVERSE CLIMATES / CUSTOM-BUILT KLIM/D3O® AERO PRO ARMOR / WORLD’S FIRST CE AAA-RATED ALL-WEATHER GEAR

BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

The TFT display gets the 2023 model year ABS-Ride Mode linking feature, where selecting street mode will put your ABS in On-Road, and selecting the Off-Road ride mode will give you Off-Road ABS. In Explorer Mode, you still have to manually configure your ABS setting. Otherwise the menu tree and interface is the same as the Norden. In short, the Expedition’s cockpit is ergonomically identical to the Norden’s, save for the taller touring windshield.

Our ride started on a primary highway, and as soon as I was at speed I discovered that I was in for a buzzy ride. There are a number of factors that determine how well a particular windshield works for a given rider, and in my case, my height, riding position, and motocross style helmet all added up to a buzzy riding experience at speed. I quickly found myself wishing for the Norden’s lower windshield, which works well for me on road. The touring windshield is hard to see through when dusty or muddy (the Norden windshield is too short for this to be an issue) and the touring windshield has the potential to smack you in the face offroad. I had a couple of close calls with this in the dirt – but one of the other riders in the group got a face full of windshield on day two. Other riders of different heights and with different helmets reported calm air and great performance out of the touring windshield on the road, so it’s clearly a “your mileage may vary” situation with this windscreen. Thankfully, after a few short Ks on the road, we turned off into the dirt and it was time to answer the question I’ve been eager to know the answer to since this bike was announced: What’s the suspension like?

One of the distinguishing features of the Norden 901 is the comfortable WP Apex suspension that makes the bike great for long days spent riding. The Norden does a great job on road, and off road it does a good job soaking up gravel, corrugations, and small bumps. This balanced suspension setup makes it a great adventure bike for many riders. I say many riders, because aggressive off-road riders who ride the Norden like the 105 horsepower big dirt bike that it is, will quickly find the limits of what the stock suspension can handle. This is precisely why some Norden owners have been sourcing KTM 890 Adventure R suspension (WP Xplor) take-offs, or they’ve been shelling out for the game-changing WP Pro component suspension to make the Norden better off-road Issue 78. By equipping the Norden 901 Expedition with WP Xplor suspension that has unique settings, Husqvarna has upped the bike’s off-road capability and simultaneously managed to retain much of the Norden’s plush and compliant ride.

On high-speed dirt and gravel roads, the Expedition is smooth and hungry for more pace, so carrying speeds that you should neglect to tell you wife about are effortless. Husqvarna’s suspension settings provide good compliance while still being able to soak up the larger hits and G-outs without instantly blowing through the stroke. However, myself and several other riders in our group experienced a few instances of surprise momentary head-shake if we hit a pothole just so or found the right embedded rock hiding in the dust. The chassis always sorted itself out, and playing with suspension settings certainly helped minimize the occurrence of head-shake; so call this one an observation, and not something that eroded anyone’s confidence in the bike off-road

When it comes to jumps and big hits, the Expedition has the legs to soak up much more than the Norden – but the bump-stops are there if you push hard enough. While we were sessioning a loop with a few larger hits for photos, I took a minute to dial in additional compression damping to the shock and was quite pleased with the results. It’s so good to have fully adjustable suspension on this bike, whether you’re just riding more aggressively or compensating for luggage. We didn’t get the chance to run through any whoops or jump anything big, but on everything else ranging from smooth gravel, loose rocky rutted tracks, and plenty of embedded rocks to air out, the Expedition’s suspension worked well and the bike is a ton of fun in the dirt. I’m looking forward to playing with the Expedition’s suspension on familiar ground, just to see how much additional performance can be found by taking the time to completely set the bike up. Speaking of setup, another great thing about the Xplor suspension is that it can be set up for you as a unique rider, and those custom settings can be changed as your skill set grows.

On road, the Expedition is equally composed and confidence inspiring. The 890 platform bikes have always struck me as unreasonably good road bikes, and the Expedition is no exception. Additional travel does mean there is a little more suspension dive when you’re really grabbing a handful of stoppers, but the chassis is perfectly composed and planted so you quickly feel comfortable on road. Husqvarna specs the same Pirelli Rally STR tires on the Expedition as found on the Norden, and these tires do great on the tar. During the Expedition’s development, Husqvarna tested quite a few tire options, but they kept coming back to the Rally STRs. These tires certainly aren’t the best off-road, but they’re predictable, and there’s something fun about riding an adventure bike with not-knobby tires through deep sand and up loose rocky climbs. These tires will also make you feel like a hero with how well they powerslide.

The Norden 901 Expedition is more than a Norden with upgraded suspension. Husqvarna’s selection of Technical Accessories makes the bike adventure ready right from the dealer’s floor. My favorite addition to the bike is the heavy duty skid plate, which during the course of our ride withstood rocks, drops, and Cyril riding over some sizeable logs without issue. We had daytime temperatures in the 70s and 80s, so I didn’t bother to turn on the heated parts, but as someone who has ridden on plenty of cold days, I can certainly appreciate the value they bring to the Expedition. The center stand makes working on the bike easier, but if you’re a rider who is well versed in the ways of a trail stand, or how to tie a bike up to work on it, this may be a superfluous accessory.

The side bag set however, is more of a mixed bag. This luggage system features two waterproof roll top bags with 18 liters of storage each that mount to racks with quick releases so that they can be removed from the bike as needed – and on paper they’re an appealing product. We were the second group of riders to use these pre-production examples, and by the end of our ride most all of the bags were suffering issues such as separating seams and buckles and quick releases that had been jammed up with dirt and mud. A rack or two may have also had a part jump ship during our ride as well. It will be interesting to see what revisions are made to the production version of these bags.

Husqvarna Motorcycles did a great job elevating the performance of the Norden 901 with the Norden 901 Expedition. They’ve kept all of the Norden’s great 890-platform attributes, while enhancing capabilities in key areas. By outfitting the bike with (mostly) solid parts, they’ve made it an appealing fly-and-ride or turn key adventure solution. The Norden 901 Expedition slots squarely in the space between the Norden 901 and KTM’s 890 Adventure R on the scale of off-road performance. The 890 R is still the off-road apex predator, but the Expedition has taken a large step toward the offroad end of the continuum without moving its other foot that provides balanced performance, making the bike even better for traveling and exploring. If you’re a road focused adventure rider who likes to dabble in the dirt, get a Norden 901. If you’re an off-road rider who wants ultimate off-road performance, get an 890 R. If you want a bike that strikes a balance of comfort and capability for riding both on-road and off-road, get a Norden 901 Expedition.

Riding the Norden 901 Expedition does two things: First is that it puts a smile on your face no matter where you’re riding. Whether you’re carving canyons and passing guys on sport bikes or adding your powerslide track to exit off a perfect gravel corner, the bike is just that much fun to ride, which makes you never want to stop. Second, the Expedition inspires your mind to daydream about places to go ride. A great bike will instill confidence in you and make you yearn to explore more of the world by motorcycle, and that is precisely what the Husqvarna Motorcycles Norden 901 Expedition does when you’re riding it.

SPECIFICATIONS

MSRP: .................................................................. $15,799

Engine: Liquid-cooled, DOHC, parallel twin, 4 valves/cyl

Displacement: ...................................................... 889cc

Bore x Stroke: 90.7 x 68.8mm

Compression Ratio: ............................................. 13.5:1

Transmission/Final Drive: 6-speed, chain

Claimed Horsepower: ........................................ 105.0 hp @ 8,000 rpm

Claimed Torque: 74.0 lb.-ft. @ 6,500 rpm

Fuel System: ......................................................... EFI, twin 46mm Dell’Orto throttle bodies

Clutch: .................................................................. Cable-operated PASC slipper clutch

Engine Management/Ignition: Bosch EMS w/RBW

Frame: .................................................................. Chromoly-steel

Front Suspension: WP Xplor 48mm inverted fork, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel

Rear Suspension: ................................................. WP Xplor PDS shock, fully adjustable, 9.4 in. travel

Front Brake: Radial-mount 4-piston calipers, 320mm disc w/ Bosch ABS

Rear Brake: .......................................................... 2-piston caliper, 240mm disc w/ Bosch ABS

Wheels, Front/Rear: Tubeless aluminum spoked wheels; 21 x 2.5 in./18 x 4.5 in.

Tires, Front/Rear: ................................................ Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR; 90/90-21 / 150/70-18

Rake/Trail: 25.8°/4.2 in.

Wheelbase: ......................................................... 60.1 in.

Ground Clearance: 10.6 in.

Seat Height: ......................................................... 34.4–35.3 in.

Fuel Capacity: ..................................................... 5.0 gal.

Claimed Dry Weight: ......................................... 473 lb.

Contact: ............................................................... Husqvarna-motorcycles.com

SURVEYOR PANT

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT

The Surveyor is a durable trail riding pant designed for aggressive mobility and all-day comfort. It combines Cordura ® stretch ripstop fabric and ultra-breathable Schoeller ® Dynatex micro-mesh panels at the knee and seat that allow air to flow directly through the pant.

TOOLS YOU CAN DEPEND ON

PLIERS WRENCH, CHROME

KNIPEX is well known for producing some of the highest quality most versatile tools in the world. The pliers wrench is a go to for us. Works like a pair of pliers but performs like a wrench. Able to apply crazy amounts of holding force on a fastener to get the job done. The small sizes are amazing for backcountry tool kits, and the larger sizes will find a home in your shop or perhaps the truck or van. Once you start using these, you will never go back.

• 4 Inch - XS Pliers Wrench, Chrome ......... $49

• 5 Inch - Mini Pliers Wrench, Chrome ...... $54

• 6 Inch - Pliers Wrench, Chrome .............. $58

• 7 1/4 Inch - Pliers Wrench, Chrome ....... $61

• 10 Inch - Pliers Wrench, Chrome ............ $67

BY TRAVIS GILL OF VIAJARMOTO.COM

If you’re a regular reader of UPSHIFT, you’ve undoubtedly heard of the Backcountry Discovery Routes (BDR). If you haven’t, then you’ve probably spent the last 13 years riding in the desert without access to the internet. Since 2010, the BDR organization has created and made GPS tracks available for dual-sport and adventure motorcyclists to enjoy for free at www.RideBDR.com. With the recent release of the Oregon BDR in February Issue 78, there are now 12 routes where motorcyclists can ride miles of backcountry roads, while experiencing some of the most beautiful scenery and uniqueness of various regions throughout the United States.

However, this story isn’t about the BDR. It’s about its smaller cousin. The one that lives in Europe and has an Austrian accent. It has a similar mission, but a different name – The Adventure Country Tracks. As of 2023, there are now six Adventure Country Tracks (ACT) that travel through remote regions of the countries of Portugal, Romania, Italy, Greece, the United Kingdom and the Pyrenees Mountains. You can download each of these track routes on the ACT website at www.adventurecountrytracks.com.

A Remarkable Start

With the latest route and updates loaded into our smartphone mapping app and Garmin GPS receiver, Chantil and I made our way from Spain Issue 79 to the northern start of the Portugal ACT. Our pair of heavy laden BMW G650GS mules, seemed to love the mix of twisty mountain roads that passed through small villages, and delivered us to the quiet border town of Rio de Onor.

As we neared the city of Bragança, we realized that the designers of the route did a wonderful job of creating a memorable first impression. The start actually begins inside the stone walls of a medieval castle! How many ACTs and BDRs can say that they start at a 12th century castle? It was an exciting beginning to the next 13 days and more than 1,250 km (775 miles) of exploring and riding that laid ahead of us.

After leaving the Castle of Bragança, we weaved through the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, before leaving the city. It wasn’t much longer that we reached the first section of gravel roads – not a surprise, since roughly 65 percent of the Portugal ACT is off-road. Chantil and I don’t feel we’ve had a “proper riding day” if we don’t get at least a little bit of dirt or gravel under our tires. Fortunately, every day of the Portugal ACT was a proper riding day.

Not Much to Stress About

Riding in a foreign country can be stressful. It’s easy to get overwhelmed with the myriad of questions: What language do they speak? What currency do they use? Where are the restaurants? Fuel stations? Hotels? Camping? Fortunately, this is the beauty of the ACT, much of the stress of venturing into the unknown is alleviated by simply following a colored line on a moving map. The organizers even created waypoints of recommended places to get fuel, eat, and sleep.

Access to cell phone data was prevalent along a majority of the route, where we enjoyed daily updates on weather, Portuguese translations, hotels, and mapping apps. We also preloaded an offline portion of Google Maps and the Portuguese language file for our translation app, just in case we didn’t have a signal. The backcountry can be unpredictable, even in a westernized country like Portugal. It would be prudent to also have a satellite communication device, like the Garmin inReach, in case of a major accident.

Not to worry though – thousands of dual-sport and adventure motorcyclists enjoy riding the Portugal ACT each year. Success boils down to focusing on safe riding practices, not riding beyond your ability, watching the weather, and stopping regularly to take in the wonderful views – of which there will be plenty!

Necessity is the Mother of Invention

The cooler temperatures of November were creeping in – especially in the early mornings. Wiping frost off the tent and seats of our mules was becoming a daily ritual. We first felt the cooler temperatures of the season a few months before, while riding in Great Britain Issue 75. During one particularly cold UK morning, Chantil noticed that the left grip on her mule was not heating. I flipped mine on as well, and discovered that the right grip was broken. Together we had one set of working heated grips, between our two mules. Since Chantil’s cold tolerance is lower than mine, we decided to swap the operating grips to her mule. I would be fine.

I was fine, until the November winds of the Portuguese mountains made my fingers numb from the bitter cold. Time to get creative and “MacGyver” some handlebar muffs from whatever we could find. As we passed by a small town, we noticed a trash bin full of recycled cardboard. Perhaps a pizza box and some duct tape would work? With a bit of ingenuity, a half-roll of duct tape, and twenty minutes, we had successfully made a functioning, albeit a bit ghetto, set of handlebar muffs. Thankfully, all without the stress of a MacGyver time-bomb!

Highlights of the Portugal ACT

Riding through Portugal along the entire ACT was full of memorable moments. The Castle of Bragança was a stupendous start, but there were many other highlights during the 1,250 km (775 miles) adventure. On the first day, we opted to attempt one of the optional difficult sections, which rewarded us with being able to ride on a Medieval-era stone bridge! It’s not everyday that you get to ride a motorcycle on a thousand-year-old structure.

The entire route is a nice mix of pavement and off-roading that travels through some amazing landscapes, especially during the late autumn season, where the bright reds, oranges, and yellows added splashes of vibrance to the Iberian countryside. Twisty and well-maintained roads drifted through the picturesque Douro Vally which is renowned for their famous Portuguese wines.

With so much sensational scenery it was easy to keep riding all day! However, there were a few places worth parking the motorcycles in order to absorb some of the history and culture of eastern Portugal. Castelo Rodrigo is not to be missed. In fact, the ACT route actually cuts right through the narrow cobblestone streets of this hilltop town. A tour of the 6th-century castle provided commanding views of the entire valley, dotted with white-washed homes with their brown terracotta shingled roofs. It was stunning!

Another highlight was crossing the Serra de Estela mountain range. Being late November, we half expected that crossing this 1,993 meter (6,537 ft) high mountain range might be a challenge, but we honestly didn’t expect that it would be the worst ice and winds we’ve ever experienced during our 75,000 miles of motorcycle overlanding. We were extremely grateful that the paved road portions stayed free from ice, and our cold-weather motorcycle gear, along with my newly created MacGyver mitts, kept us warm and dry.

If you’ve ever yearned for experiencing the Mad Max landscape without the post-apocalyptic destruction of the world, then the abandoned Mines of Sao Domingos won’t disappoint. This area used to be the site of one of the largest mining operations in Europe until the copper and sulfur resources were exhausted in 1966. Walking among the mangled patchwork of rusty iron, rubble, and bloodred pools, created an uneasy feeling. I half expected to even see a wild- haired feral kid, barking like a wolf, and yielding a metal boomerang.

Not Every day is Sunshine and Rainbows

Almost every day of riding on the Portugal ACT was enjoyable. We relished in the beauty of the seasonal colors, and the solitude of riding through some of the most remote areas of western Europe. However, there was one particular day of riding that was emotionally challenging.

We were about to ride into a large storm cell with rain forecasted for the next two days. Since we were not on any time constraints, we decided to find a hotel and wait out the unfavorable weather. As we neared the town of Mogadouro, Chantil looked at her tank bag and noticed that her smartphone and case, containing most of her credit cards and ID was gone! With grey clouds billowing overhead and nighttime on the horizon, we knew we had to act fast in order to find her smartphone and wallet! We backtracked as much of the route as we could, before the rain and darkness set in – however no phone. We realized that finding a black phone case at night and in the rain was almost pointless. We set up our tent, behind an old stone church, and went to bed with a sullen quietness, and a heartfelt prayer.

The next morning, we woke up well before sunrise in order to pack and get an early start on our continued search. It was a wet and miserable start of our day. We didn’t expect that the phone would survive the evening of constant rain, but we still had hope that we could at least recover the ID and credit cards before they were found by someone else. After packing the mules with our wet tent and dampened spirits, we continued our search.

After 30 minutes of riding along muddy trails and roadways, I was starting to lose hope. As we dropped down a small ledge from the pavement to the last portion of dirt road, I spotted it! Just off the side of the trail, laying in the grass was her phone case!! With elated joy, we picked it up and turned it on and it still worked!! Miraculously, the case had fallen and opened in such a way that protected the phone and cards from getting wet. It was a moment of pure joy and excitement that had us smiling for the rest of the day and the remainder of the ACT Portugal!

More Adventure Country Tracks Ahead

After our memorable experiences on the Portugal ACT, we are eager to ride even more of the ACTs in the future. Stay tuned for more stories as we ride through Greece, Romania, and Italy in the future.

About viajarMOTO

Travis and Chantil Gill have been living on the road and motorcycle overlanding since early 2020. So far they’ve explored 44 countries in North America, Europe, and north Africa, and hope to someday circumnavigate this “pale blue dot” they call home. Follow their journey at www.viajarMOTO.com.

Be seen by others on your way to the trail. See it all when you’re headed back in the dark.

THANK YOU TO OUR SUPPORTERS!

TESTED

Outback Motortek Tuareg 660 Crash Bars and Skid Plate

Adventure bikes have this habit of taking unscheduled naps. Sometimes naps happen when you’re riding in deep sand or on other slippery off-road surfaces. Bikes also tend to take naps when they’ve sensed that their rider has run out of talent, and moments described by using words like power slide, backing it in, or grabbing a handful are sometimes immediately followed by recounting an unscheduled bike nap. Depending on the bike that you’re riding, a nap can result in significant damage that can be costly to repair. To properly protect our Aprilia Tuareg 660 against damage from unscheduled naps, and all of the other engine destroying, expensive part smashing hazards posed by riding the bike off-road, we installed an Outback Motortek Skid Plate and a set of Crash bars. We then went for a ride to see how our shiny new Tuareg would fare in the event of a spontaneous unscheduled bike nap.

If you’re not familiar with Outback Motortek – fire up the YouTubes and watch some of their drop and drag test videos (here’s their Tuareg 660 getting thrown on the ground in Mexico). Clearly, Outback Motortek isn’t afraid to throw bikes on the ground and drag them around with a truck to make it abundantly clear that their products work as advertised.

Installing Outback Motortek Crash Bars and a Skid Plate on the Aprilia Tuareg 660 can be done in a couple of hours with common tools and a bit of thread locking compound. We opted to install the crash bars first, as they share two of the four mounting points used for the skid plate. Outback Motortek has installation videos for their products, and it’s worthwhile to watch the video ahead of time to take notes on what goes where, and for the general order of installation. This way you’re not having to scrub through a video if you need to reference a step. Fit and finish on the crash bars is top shelf, and during the installation you’ll appreciate details like fasteners that are perfect length, and the color matched washers and screws. The crash bars also provide a perfect spot to mount a pair of lights.

The Outback Motortek Skid Plate is 4mm thick, and it feels properly stout after removing the beer cans pretending to be protective plates that the bike comes with. The pre-production example that we received had a few sharp edges, so be sure to handle the skidplate with care. Installation is straightforward, and the installation video shows you exactly what goes where. I really appreciate the use of counter-sunk fasteners on the skid plate, as adventure bikes have a habit of cleaning the heads off of regular cap screws that protrude from the bottom of skid plates. With everything installed and properly torqued, the only thing left to do was to get out and ride.

TESTED: OUTBACK MOTORTEK TUAREG 660 CRASH BARS AND SKID PLATE

TESTED: OUTBACK MOTORTEK TUAREG 660 CRASH BARS AND SKID PLATE

Our first order of business was to introduce the Outback Motortek Skid Plate to some rocks, which are thankfully easy to come by in Central Arizona. After a few quick rock hits, we high-centered the bike on the skid plate. Here is where you can appreciate the difference this skid plate makes over the stock unit. The Outback Motortek Skid Plate provides comprehensive protection to the bottom of the motor, the oil filter, the oil sensors at the front of the motor, the header, and the stator to name a few expensive, ride ending if damaged parts. Getting the skidplate unstuck from the dirt is no factor, and the skid plate is well shaped to skid over obstacles – unlike some other designs I’ve seen in the wild.

After a bit of honing around in the dirt, we had the opportunity to see just how the Tuareg 660 likes to lay down for a nap. Thanks to the Outback Motortek crash bars, all of the important parts are well protected. It’s also blatantly obvious what parts of the bike would hit the ground were the crash bars not there – and let’s just say the results wouldn’t be pretty.

Aprilia has built a great adventure bike in the Tuareg 660. The bike is great on the road, and in the dirt it’s light on its feet chassis and impressive suspension make the bike quite capable. However, the stock protection on the bike is almost nonexistent and the aluminum plates the bike comes with can hardly be considered splash guards. Given the number of critical components at the bottom of the motor, adding protection is mandatory for any Tuareg that’s going to venture into the dirt. Outback Motortek has a great protection package for the Aprilia Tuareg 660 in their Crash Bars and Skid Plate. These products look great on the bike, and the crash bars add a perfect spot to add a pair of lights. Most importantly, they provide real protection to the bike for when you encounter the inevitable rock that is bigger than it looks, or an unscheduled nap strikes. If you own a Tuareg 660, you can’t go wrong by protecting it with Outback Motortek Crash Bars and skid plate.

For more information on Outback Motortek Products, visit: www.outbackmotortek.com

NEW PRODUCTS

AVAILABLE APRIL 2023

BY CHAD DE ALVA

MSC MOTO APEX BAR MOUNTS

Handlebar mounts are parts on a motorcycle that many riders change. Some riders do it for looks, others do it to attain a different bar position, and other riders still do it to add vibration damping or to mount a steering damper. MSC Moto is an Australian manufacture of steering stabilizers that we at Upshift really like, so when MSC Moto introduced their Apex vibration damping handlebar mounts, we had to give them a try.

The concept behind vibration damping bar mounts is simple: isolate the handlebars from the rest of the bike to reduce the amount of vibration communicated from the bike’s motor to the riders’ hands. The benefits of this are less arm pump, reduced fatigue, and in extreme cases preventing numbness in the hands from riding a bike for extended periods of time. Vibration damping bar mounts can also take the edge off of hits from obstacles, providing additional comfort and reduced fatigue to the rider. There are many different approaches to providing vibration damping ranging from handlebars to all sorts of handlebar mounts, yet it’s important to note that some products on the market don’t isolate vibrations effectively because they don’t actually isolate the handlebars. Thankfully, the Apex Bar Mounts utilize a design that actually works, and during the easy install is where you can see just how they function.

Installing the Apex bar mounts is an easy process completed with common tools and a bit of thread locking compound. With your old bar perches removed, install the bases of the Apex bar mounts. It’s important to note that the mounting hole is offset by 5mm from the centerline of the bases, so make sure to orientate the mounts how you want them, and ensure that both mounts are orientated the same way. Here is where you can see just how these mounts provide vibration damping: eight polyurethane cones isolate the clamping sleeves from the bases. The mid clamps mount onto the clamping sleeves without touching the bases, so there is no metal to metal contact that can communicate vibrations. With the mid clamps installed, place your bars where you want them and put the top clamps on. Make sure you torque the screws in the caps evenly using a torque wrench!

The first bike I installed the Apex Bar Mounts on was a Norden 901 – a bike that has a very smooth parallel twin motor. To take the subjectivity out of the equation, I rigidly mounted a smartphone to the handlebars and used a data logging app to record raw accelerometer data of the bike idling with the stock bar mounts, and again with the Apex Handlebar Mounts. Raw data doesn’t lie, and the Apex mounts proved that they did in fact reduce vibrations measured at the handlebars.

Out riding the bike in the real world, things certainly felt smoother in the bars. I also noticed that I could feel the bars flexing in their mounts ever so slightly and that harsh hits from embedded rocks seemed less harsh than before – albeit slightly.

To really put the Apex Handlebar Mounts to the test, the next bike I installed them on was a 2014 KTM 300 XC – a real machine of a dirt bike from back in the day when counterbalancers were not a thing in orange two strokes. This bike vibrates, and the impact that the Apex bar mounts made in this case was more pronounced. I also enlisted the help of two additional riders to provide their feedback on their experience of riding the bike with rigid bar mounts and with the Apex mounts. All riders agreed that vibrations were reduced and that sharp hits also felt less sharp with the Apex mounts. The rider who owns the bike also indicated that he could feel the bars flexing in their mounts when pushing it off-road. To be clear, that’s not a negative, just a new sensation he observed.

Apex Handlebar Mounts work as advertised in that they reduce vibrations communicated from the bike to the rider’s hands and that they take the edge off of hard or sharp hits from obstacles. A complete set of Apex Bar Mounts weighs in at 503 grams, which is considerably less than other systems on the market. The mounts provide 40mm of rise from the base of the mount to the centerline of the bar, so depending on your application they may or they may not provide any rise. We’ve also been told that MSC Moto is working on making Apex mounts that integrate with their steering dampers and a yet to be released GPS mount, which means that MSC Moto will have a solution that covers almost all of the bases.

TESTED: MSC MOTO APEX BAR MOUNTS

I say almost, because the one thing that the Apex Bar Mounts are missing is a mounting solution for any sort of bark buster. Other handlebar mounting systems on the market have a provision for mounting your full wrap hand guards / bark busters to your handlebar mounts, which is a superior system to using some sort of bar clamp. Hopefully MSC Moto will develop a solution for this in the future.

In their current form, Apex Bar Mounts are a solid option for riders who are looking for an option to reduce vibrations from their bike felt at the bars, and take the edge off on harsh hits. The mounts are available in orange, black, and blue, so you can color match to your bike, or add a bit of contrasting color if that’s your style. For information on MSC Moto Apex Handlebar Mounts, visit www.mscmoto.com. Apex Handlebar Mounts and MSC Moto Steering Dampers are available from the Upshift Store – it doesn’t cost you anything extra, and your purchase helps to support the next issue.

EVERY UPSHIFT STORE PURCHASE HELPS SUPPORT THE FREE MONTHLY MAGAZINE!

WITH A LITTLE DETOUR THROUGH MALAYSIA

BY MOTOMORGANA

SIX WEEKS OFF THE BIKE - TIME TO GO POP!

While our bikes flew trouble-free from Kathmandu to Malaysia, things fared slightly differently for the two of us. A missed connecting flight, an unforeseen overnight stay, storms, endless delays, a sleepless night at a horror airport in the south of India and a motley crew of airport personnel who had no idea what they were doing and left the passengers to their fate. You don’t fly low-cost airlines in India just for fun, that’s for sure. What was supposed to be a trip of less than 24 hours became a frustrating journey of more than 3 days of being held hostage in different airports. Caroline and I were exhausted, smelled like a skunk and our mood had seen better days.

A good night’s sleep and a dash of Malaysian efficiency was all we needed to get us back on our feet. It took Malaysian customs a mere 15 minutes to sort out our paperwork and stamp our carnets. At the warehouse, we were forced to pass the entire line of people waiting, so to speak, and were able to put our bikes back together in a corner. About two hours later we were rolling out of customs, ready to hit the Malaysian roads. This must have been hands down the easiest customs clearance ever!

FLEEING THE RAIN

Malaysia must be a fantastic country, or so we have heard and read everywhere. The issue now is that we are at the peak of the rainy season. Humid heat is interspersed with heavy rains, so intense that it would make bikers back home stop under a highway bridge. But the road to the north, toward Thailand, runs through the rainforest, where there are very few places to shelter. At the end of each riding day we looked like two mops haggling at the front desk of the cheapest hotel in the area, only to put on the same tacky soggy clothes in the morning, heading for the next deluge.

What better to find in a Thai shop than our favorite Belgian

Police checkpoint near the Myanmar border. Northern Thailand.

Belgian beer! Southern Thailand

It felt awesome to ride the twisties again after 6 weeks off the bike. Northern Thailand.

Crispy critters for dinner? I don’t think so! Southern Thailand.

Water buffalo’s and mud, the ideal combination! Northern Thailand.

Ride through the Huai Nam Dang national park, north of Chiang

INTO THAILAND

We hung around at the border with Thailand for at least two hours. Getting out of Malaysia was a breeze. Getting into Thailand though, didn’t really go as expected. The new software system for foreign vehicles may have been installed but finding a customs officer who could work with it was another challenge. What followed was a long series of phone calls to superiors, discussions with colleagues and doubtful faces. The only apparent certainty was they could not prepare the documents to get our motorcycles into the country. “So what now?” There was a deafening silence at first. But after much pushing and shoving, the chief of customs was willing - for lack of any alternative - to let us drive our Huskies into the country without any form of valid border formality, into yet another rainstorm! Thai flexibility, we like! The weather just a little less for now...

JINGLE BELLS

Stu and Janell are two crazy Australian bikers/world travelers whom we had first met in Burkina Faso, West Africa. Along with their three adopted street dogs they crisscrossed our itinerary on occasion. Like now, in Thailand. They were waiting for their motorcycles to arrive from Vladivostok to Bangkok along with a fully converted overland tuktuk. We couldn’t have imagined a better Christmas gathering on a beach just outside Pattaya. The cheapest barbecue at the local do-it-yourself store, a big bag of coal, good food and cold beers overlooking the bay of Thailand. And equally important: finally the sun hit our faces again. An unforgettable Christmas it was!

The plan was to stay at the seaside for a week or so, enjoy some sun and take it easy. Five times we were 100% sure to leave, only to spend far too much time in the morning enjoying breakfast, fiddling with the bikes and finally postponing our departure by yet another day.

Chiang Rai. Northern Thailand.

Ride through the Huai Nam Dang national park, north of Chiang Rai. Northern Thailand.

Ride through the Huai Nam Dang national park, north of Chiang Rai. Northern Thailand.

Great Monk Kruba Srivichai. Huge statues like this are all over the country. Northern Thailand.

0N THE HORIZON FOR BDR IN 2023

This year, BDR has more on the calendar than ever before. We’re hosting more events, attending more rallies, launching more routes, and introducing more ways to support BDR. Mark your calendar and make 2023 a BDR adventure-filled year. Visit RideBDR.com for more information.

APRIL 20-23

ANNUAL ADVENTURE RIDE FUNDRAISER WEEKEND

Join us for daily rides, entertainment and BDR camaraderie in Elephant Butte, NM. Located directly on the NMBDR, this destination is hailed as a “Diamond in the Desert.”

MAY 5

JUNE 11

OREGON BDR ROUTE LIVE BROADCAST & FILM PREMIERE

The ORBDR is the 12th route developed by the BDR organization and the most anticipated BDR to-date.

STEENS MTN. & ALVORD DESERT, OR BDR-X ROUTE LAUNCHES

Have plans to ride the ORBDR this year? You’ll want to include this remote mountain/desert loop at the south end of the route.

JULY 20-23

CATCH

BLACK HILLS, SD BDR-X ROUTE LAUNCHES

Join us at the Revzilla Get On! ADV Fest Sturgis as we broadcast live and launch this epic route and BDR-X Expedition film.

Soaking up the Chiang Mai vibe: temples all over the place!

Hey, my hand was in Myanmar! :-)

Caroline on the railway market in Maeklong, Southern Thailand.

CHIANG M…OUCH!!!

After two weeks at the beach, we were finally heading for Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. A few days of smooth back roads interspersed with winding twisties through the Thai hills, took us to our friend Jan Marc, a well-traveled Belgian biker with a fresh hip replacement – a little off-road accident - and a full-blown oversized house in a fancy neighborhood, far away from the hustle and bustle. We were to stay for two days, but just on the eve of our departure, at the farewell dinner, things went terribly wrong. I, by no means intoxicated by any mind-altering substance, stupidly walked through the wrong half of the sliding glass door and ended up in the hospital emergency room bleeding profusely with a gag bandage above the knee. Sutures in the leg muscle, crutches and six weeks of rehab… that was the painful verdict. “Honey, when you get out of the pool, can you dress my wound again? And can you mix me another one of those delicious fruit shakes?”

Location wise, we could have done worse, that much was certain. But although I could walk quite normally after about three weeks, I couldn’t even get my foot to lift the gear shifter half a mm. Around the world in first gear then? I don’t really think so...

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

I couldn’t stop cheering and shouting of excitement! The sense of finally feeling the 74 humming horsepower between my legs again, of hitting that throttle hard with the wind in my face, of riding twisties on narrow roads through the mountains. The winding paved road to Pai was a nice warm-up for what was about to come.

A local off-road rider from Pai showed us the way to a rather civilized gravel road through the Huai Nam Dang National Park nearby. My leg still felt a little stiff and there was some very sloppy shifting here and there, but at least we were doing what we love most: riding dirt roads! And it went pretty well. The rear of the bike broke out in the corners, the front wheel went up in the air at times and adrenaline levels peaked. The test for my sutured muscle had proven more than successful. So back in Pai, we started planning routes for the next few days over an ice-cold Chang beer.

Northern Thailand.

A little shortcut from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand.

A bit of easy single track on our way to Chiang Mai. Central Thailand.

Vietnamese workers in the rice fields.

Pai itself isn’t really all that authentically Thai. It is an organically grown tourist village discovered by hippies about 20 years ago, and it shows. Nowhere did I see such a dense concentration of glazed eyes, nowhere was there so much hugging and love being spread, nowhere was the atmosphere so laid back and trouble free.

“Look, honey, that guy has been staring motionless at our bikes for at least 15 minutes. Would it be a die hard motorbike fan? I’ll check it out... no die hard fan honey. Magic mushrooms!”

A LITTLE MORE SPICE

But let there be no doubt about it, Northern Thailand is bulging with western tourists, and that shows on the road. Long strings of slow scooters meander along the paved roads to yet another viewpoint with a swing set for the ideal Instagram photo. The smog season had kicked in, which - let’s be honest - means that at times you can’t see a thing of the landscape. We had to look out for a plan B, far away from the crowds.

Plotting a dirt route in Thailand can be quite challenging. Rather than one long road, it’s a puzzle of little stretches of dotted lines on the GPS that have to be connected, not knowing if that road still exists and certainly not what it will look like. The approach paid off. At least when we tried it for the first time. Apart from a few potholes, some rutted out tracks or a few small washed out sections, the road conditions back to Chiang Mai weren’t all too bad.

But when we attempted our tried-and-true approach again further north, things turned out somewhat differently... Caroline proudly came up with a route that, according to Google Maps, would get us to our destination in just 2 hours. What started as a nice recently used two-track gravel road, soon turned into a more challenging washed-out forest track that, to make it all a little more challenging, went steeply uphill or worse, steeply downhill. Two tracks became one track and fallen leaves did their very best to skillfully camouflage every pothole or bump and reduce the rear wheel’s grip by at least 80%. Some stretches were just too much for Caroline to handle. I often rode a long way ahead, only to trudge up the hill on foot with boots that felt like they were made of lead, picking Caroline’s bike back up and maneuvering it safely over the most difficult stretches. As a bonus, the sweltering heat was just killing us. Sweat ran out of our pores faster than we could refill through our mouths. We looked like a strainer. That meant at least another two days of dark brown pee-pee!

Central Thailand.

Stopping for lunch at the side of the river. Chiang Rai. Northern Thailand.

A shortcut from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand.

Go baby go! Northern Thailand.

We got lost in the mountains. Northern Thailand.

Main image by Upshift Online

A quick boat trip to Vietnam without the bike: Halong Bay.

Meeting friends from home in Vietnam!

Spending the holidays at the beach near Pattaya.

Soaking up the Chiang Mai vibe: temples all over the place!

It had gotten dark already when we asked locals of some remote mountain tribe if we could spend the night. There were no hostels around, but we were invited to roll out our mattresses on the balcony of the toothless grandma of the house. We quickly filled up on a bowl of rice and soon slept like a log, all sweaty and tacky. Two hours on Google Maps ended up being a day and a half of cursing, sweating and suffering. We’re both still a little faint on our feet and Caroline is counting her bruises. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, baby!

Today we’re just 5 miles away from the Lao border, enjoying a freshly ground Thai coffee with a view on the mighty Mekong river. Lao should have some great off road tracks so we were told. We can’t wait to get there!

Next up: Lao, Cambodia and Malaysia.

A VISIT FROM OUR FRIENDS

Vietnam may be pretty nearby, but the country is known for doing everything in its power to keep foreign vehicles out. It’s a maze of notarized documents, official translations, and other administrative hurdles. Riding your own bike across the Vietnamese border is a definite no go if you don’t want to spend weeks waiting for the process to finally complete, with no guarantee of success.

In 2018, my longtime friend Bart came to visit us in Guatemala, after a year and a half on the road on a motorcycle. And he wanted to do it again, together with his girlfriend Annelies. Now motorcycling with my sutured leg muscle was a no go for a while anyway, so we left the bikes in Thailand, flew low cost to Vietnam and enjoyed a week of the local culture. A city trip to Hanoi, a mini cruise in Halong Bay and two days of soaking up culture in Ninh Binh. Riding a rundown scooter without gears through the rice fields.... we couldn’t get any closer to real motorcycling. It was miles away from how we usually travel, and our comfort level was seriously raised for a short while. But after 9 months on the road, it was such a pleasure to finally see friends from our home country again!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!

WE’RE EXPERTS IN THE BUSINESS BECAUSE WE RIDE TOO!