Upshift Issue 86 - October 2023

DUAL-SPORT

2024 KTM 500 EXC-F

What do you do when you reach the limit? We say, “Change your approach and keep charging ahead.” We accepted the challenge to create a machine capable of going places it’s never gone before. Now we challenge you to get out there and do the same!

SEE MORE AT KTM.COM

INSTA-ADV

The mission is simple, if you want to share your adventures on “insta-adv” you’d better start following us! @upshift_online and use the hash tag #upshift_online on your photos

ALWAYS READY

Nearly everyone has been that guy or girl who brings the ride to a halt. However, there’s a difference between unexpected events overcoming the prepared rider, and avoidable hurdles ruining an unprepared rider’s day. The adventurer that leaves tools at home and hasn’t started their bike in six months is the rider who will likely leave a group on the side of the road, relying on others’ preparedness to fix what has gone wrong. Shit happens, but if it occurs often enough – your friends might catch on to the pattern.

At the track, this is a minor inconvenience. Riders are happy to let their friends sit on the tailgate and watch while they ride. However, unpreparedness in the ADV/Dual Sport world can turn into dire circumstances quite quickly. Broken bikes are never good, and broken bodies because of broken bikes are even worse! Our sport allows us to access breathtaking remote landscapes (it’s what we love about adventure riding), but with that comes elevated risks when things go awry. Before every rider leaves on their next trip, beginner or experienced, they should always accept the risks of traveling exposed, at speed, on remote and technical terrain, and consider what it looks like to be readily equipped for anything that may happen to you or your machine. Why stack the odds against yourself with poor preparation?

Some people are innately planners. They prep for the entire course ahead and think of every possible outcome. Then there are riders like me, whose disorganization and procrastination are simply second nature. This “advice” applies to my fellow scatterbrains. We are “that rider,” but we don’t have to be. Make equipment lists, put events on a calendar, set reminders to check and double-check your bike and gear. Find a system that works for you. Your buddies and your loved ones will thank you for it every time you are truly ready for your next ride. I know mine have.

WRS Yamaha Tenere 700 Windscreens

WRS windscreens are made using high quality PMMA plexiglass, DOT626 approved 4mm thick. Thanks to this windscreen the annoying turbulence on the helmet will be eliminated, as well as the air on the shoulders and you will finally be protected for even longer journeys. The windscreen offers protection for both the rider and a passenger thanks to the touring fairing. With a visually appealing design, and compatibility with standard and “World Raid” Tenere motorcycles, this WRS windscreen will make any Yamaha Tenere look and feel premium. Price: $91.00. Available at the UPSHIFT STORE.

Muller Motorsport Steering Stabilizer Mounts for Aprilia Tuareg 660

A damper mount that virtually adds zero rise (less than 4mm) and retains the original handlebar vibration damping and a damper pin mount that requires no modification to your Aprilia Tuareg 660 (2022+). 100% reversible at any time and mere minutes to install using simple hand tools. Kit contains all mounting hardware needed. Includes a custom armature to be installed on a Scotts Performance unit. It also includes a simple press to install the armature. Price: $260.00. Upshift offers the Scotts Performance stabilizer to match this kit. Available at the UPSHIFT STORE.

Technical Features:

• Works with the industry leading SCOTTS performance steering damper

• Aerospace grade aluminum

• Comes in anodized black, blue or grey.

Everything required included:

• Aluminum Damper mount

• Aluminum Pin holder

• Stainless Steel Pin

• Stainless Steel Custom Arm For Damper

• Damper arm replacement tool

PHOTO: KEWIN KRAWCZYK NORWAY

PHOTO: TIM BURKE

PHOTO: MARIAN CHYTKA

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: KEWIN KRAWCZYK

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

PHOTO: KEWIN KRAWCZYK

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: CIN CIN MOVIES

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

THE WORLD JUST GOTALOT SMALLER WITHTHE POWERFUL PERFORMANCE,ADVANCEDELECTRONICS,ANDANY-ROAD CAPABILITIES OFTHEALL-NEW2023V-STROM 800DE.

Shift your adventure into a higher gear. Developed from a clean sheet of fresh ideas, the new Suzuki V-STROM 800DE features an advanced new parallel-twin 776cc powerplant complemented by dynamic rider aids, long-travel suspension, and spoke-style wheels. So, when you’re idling at the crossroads of on- or off-road adventure, the V-STROM 800DE is there to advance whatever direction you choose.

IN DEALERSHIPS NOW

Along with concerned conservationists everywhere, Suzuki urges you to Tread Lightly!® on public and private land. Suzuki, the “S” logo, and Suzuki model and product names are Suzuki Trademarks or ®. © 2023 Suzuki Motor USA, LLC

PHOTO: KEWIN KRAWCZYK

PHOTO: CHAD DE ALVA

PHOTO: CIN CIN MOVIES

PHOTO: OLIVIER DE VAULX

PHOTO: MIGUEL SANTANA

model shown.

Trails Awareness Symposium

The story of off-road motorcycle riding in the western United States is typically told using words like closed, managed, and re-designated. Veteran riders all have their stories about how we used to be able to ride here, or there used to be a trail that connected there, and trails that used to be for dirt bikes that are now closed to motorized use. These stories are usually followed by discussions of how motorcycle advocacy has almost always been a game of defense: we’re constantly on our back foot, holding up our figurative shield against the onslaught of those who close our trails. The game has been to minimize damage to our riding opportunities, but over the years we’ve lost quite a bit of ground. Yet a Colorado based non-profit organization called the Trails Preservation Alliance (TPA), has been working to change our stance from defense to offense. The TPA has been supporting local clubs and advocating for off-road riding opportunities in Colorado and the surrounding states. The TPA hosts the Colorado 600 Trails Awareness Symposium, a fiveday riding and advocacy symposium that was held in South Fork, CO for 2023. At the 600, TPA shared their history, current state, and future plans for motorcycle advocacy – and it’s something you need to be a part of.

By Chad de Alva

The Trails Preservation Alliance is unique in the world of off-road motorcycle advocacy. While local clubs are the boots on the ground, engaged with their local land managers and working on issues in their respective back yards, the TPA exists to support the efforts of local clubs and advocate for off-road riding on a state-wide level. Whether a new club needs support to get up and running, or an established club needs help with a fight to keep their backyard trails open, or additional support to make projects go, the TPA has the resources to help. This combination has proven to be quite effective, and off-road motorcycling would be in a better place if a TPA existed in every state. A recent example of the impact of the TPA’s efforts was just announced in southwestern Colorado.

The Grand Mesa, Uncompahgre, and Gunnison (GMUG) National Forest, which encompasses 3.2 million acres of land in western Colorado just released their draft Record of Decision (ROD) on the first forest plan that they’ve completed in 40 years. Forest plans are supposed to be completed every ten to fifteen years, so the impact of this decision is that much more significant. What’s exciting about this draft ROD, is that out of all the proposed alternatives that the forest could have chosen, they chose the one that creates a minimal amount of wilderness and could allow for more motorized recreation opportunities (read: new trails) when the forest starts their next round of travel management. The draft ROD specifically states that the forest planners received “a large number” of helpful comments that were advocating for motorized recreation on the proposed alternatives, and these comments were submitted by the TPA, local clubs, and many other motorized users.

In Upshift 62 the feature story on 2021 Colorado 600 specifically mentions the GMUG being in the planning process for this forest plan, and the importance of commenting on the process. Two years later, the results of those advocacy efforts have paid off. Instead of taking another hit to the number of motorized trails in the GMUG inventory, effective comment submittals by motorized users have contributed to a win: a forest plan that allows for more motorized recreation opportunities.

The TPA has also been working on what they call the Colorado Off-Road Motorcycle Strategic Plan. By working with GIS specialists, biologists and other subject matter experts, they’ve been able to capture a comprehensive picture of the current inventory of trails in Colorado, and what potential opportunities exist for improving motorized recreation. According to COTREX data, there are 2,273 miles of motorized single track currently in Colorado. Note that many of these trails have seasons and are only open for a few months out of the year in many cases. There are currently 23,661 miles of non-motorized trails in Colorado, but if a trail is designated as motorized, any other user group can use it. If you sum up the total mileage of motorized single track, 50inch ATV trails, and nonmotorized trails, you get 28,351 miles of trail for non-motorized recreation. Motorized single track is 8% of the total trail mileage in the state.

The Strategic Plan also identifies a number of opportunities for improving off-road motorcycle recreation in Colorado. Objectives such as more trails, youth and beginner trails, connecting existing systems, and creating loop routes were just a few of the concepts mentioned. Looking at the map of where all of these new opportunities could go is exciting – there is so much potential out there for new riding.

If we as off-road motorcyclists want to protect the trails that we have today, and to create new trails to ride in the future, WE ALL need to get involved today. Riders cannot just assume that trails will continue to exist for our enjoyment and that someone else is going to make this happen. Make no mistake about it, there are well organized, very well funded user groups out there that would love to get dirt bikes off our public lands. This fight is ongoing, and every rider needs to get in the game.

THE NEW WORLD CONQUEROR

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BADLANDS PRO A3 JACKET & PANT / KRIOS PRO HELMET

Here is what you need to do: join your local trails club. This should be standard practice for every off-road rider. Ideally that means going to some club meetings and participating in events like trail work days, but at the bare minimum, you need to pay to be a member. Clubs are not service providers, so become an active member, not just a subscriber.

Support the local clubs anywhere you travel to ride. Determine who cares for the trails where you’re going and find out what you can do to help. Become a member of that club and treat the trails you’re riding on like they are your local trails. If you come across a tree that’s down or some other thing that needs attention while you’re out riding, either fix it yourself or let the club know. Respect gets respect, and caring for the trails you’re using will get you respect from anyone else you run into while out riding. Working on a trail also wins you all the good will with other user groups, especially non-motorized users.

Get involved with land managers and their management processes. The fact of the matter is that land managers take time to make decisions, so we need to exert what the TPA calls hydraulic pressure by being vigilant, patient, and contributing constructively at every step of the process. The GMUG ROD is a great example of how fast (read: slow) this process goes, but it’s also a great example of how engaging in the process can result in favorable outcomes.

The 2023 Colorado 600 Trails Awareness Symposium was empowering. Over the course of four days, we got to learn about exactly what the TPA has been doing, is currently doing, and is planning on doing in the future. Each day started with a presentation over breakfast, and then we spent the balance of the day riding everything from adventure bikes to dirt bikes on some of the best single track in the state. When you learn about something during a presentation, and then get to experience it firsthand by riding on it, the combination is quite moving and thought provoking.

What if there was a TPA in every western state? What if all of these states had a Strategic Plan that painted a data-driven picture of what our current and potential riding opportunities are? What if every local club had a TPA backing them up at the state level, and bringing additional resources to bear when needed? How many more riding opportunities could we create by doing these things?

The only way to find out is to get involved and put in the work. If you’re already part of a club and involved in making the world a better place to ride, then good on you. If you’re not, you know what you need to do. Call out your riding buddies that aren’t involved as well. Off-road motorcycle advocacy is building momentum toward a better riding future, and getting more riders involved will only help produce better results. Events like the TPA’s Colorado 600 are a great way to learn more about the world of offroad riding advocacy, and a great way to see firsthand the trails that are worth protecting, and the trails we can work to create in the future.

For more information on the Trails Preservation Alliance, visit coloradotpa.org

For more information the Colorado 600 Trails Awareness Symposium, visit colorado600.org

The Colorado 600 wouldn’t be possible without support from the following companies: Rocky Mountain ATV/ MC, Motion Pro, KLIM, MotoMinded, Texas Sidewinders MC, Billet Racing Products, Apex Motorsports, Centura / St. Anthony Pre-hospital Services, Doubletake Mirrors, AMA, KTM, Upshift Online, Dunlop, Stuck Nutz, Kate’s Real Food, Tomichi Creek Trading Post, Dave Mungenast Motorsports, Slavens Racing, TBK Bank, and Monarch Investment Group.

By Chad de Alva - Scott Bright

On January 15th, 2023, after more than 44 hours of racing, Skyler Howes became the fifth American in history to podium on a bike at the Dakar rally with a 3rd place overall finish. Riding a factory Husqvarna rally bike, Skyler lead six of the rally’s fourteen stages, and was just over five minutes behind first place overall – an impressive ride for sure. Skyler’s journey to the podium of the world’s toughest race has also been quite the ride – starting from humble beginnings, he has quite literally bet the farm to go all in on pursuing his dreams. At the 2023 Colorado 600, I had the opportunity to get to learn more of Skyler’s story, and to find out what’s next for this hard working, strong mustache growing, and all around outstanding human.

A big thanks also goes to Scott Bright, who provided many of the questions used for this article.

How did this all get started: My grandfather built a famous race car that won the first Baja 500. Steve McQueen ended up buying that car and racing it, and my grandfather would trade drive time for mechanic help. As my dad was growing up, he would work in Steve’s shop, and he kept sweeping next to a bike in a box. So the floor in front of that torn down motorcycle was really clean. Steve finally told my father that if he could get the bike back together, he could have it. So indirectly, my father got his first bike from Steve McQueen, got it going, and used it in pre run Baja racecourses for my grandfather. That’s the short story on how my family got into off-road racing.

What was your first bike: My first bike was a Honda XR75. I was two and a half years old when my dad put me on it. The bike had a clutch and everything, but I couldn’t reach the foot pegs. So my dad would sit on it, put me on it, and ghost-ride me off in the empty lot behind our house. I kept getting more comfortable, so my dad would let me take the reins, and we’ve got all of these home videos of my dad yelling at me to slow down. All of my childhood memories are of me coming by my dad on the racecourse and him yelling at me to slow down!

Early on, I was instilled with the real reason we ride dirt bikes, and that’s because it’s fun. I went out and I won a race and I really liked that, and I got this cool trophy. The next race I went out and I didn’t win. I started crying and I had a big problem with it, so my dad picked up the bike and put it in the back of the truck and said, “Alright, we’re going home.” I said, “Wait, I have another race to do!” My dad responded, “No, if you’re going to cry because you didn’t win - that’s not what we’re here to do. We’re here to have some fun and ride dirt bikes. If you’re going to cry because you didn’t win, we’re going to go home and I’m going to sell the bike.” So from the time I was three to four years old and started racing, he really drove home the point that riding dirt bikes is fun – and I think that’s what really lead me to the point that I’m at now.

Tell us about Baja: Baja is a wild place, and I loved racing there. It’s a great place to go if you have a bucket list, want to do wheelies on the beach, eat tacos and drink beers. It’s also a place you can go and get your butt kicked, which I definitely did.

What Baja taught me is that no matter how cool you think you are, the desert is always in charge. Baja also taught me life lessons like don’t step over dollars to pick up pennies. It’s interesting how many parallels there are between dirt bike racing and overall life: if you decide to skip out on some things because it’s an extra three dollars, and it ends up costing you seven thousand dollars in the long run, it’s better to just spend the money and do the right thing the first time. I ended up going broke and having some gnarly crashes, but you learn from failure. It’s interesting to look back on that – if you’re mentoring someone, you don’t want them to go through that, to have the same problems that you had, but from failure and adversity you get some of the best life lessons… looking back on that now it makes me appreciate what I have so much more.

How did you get into rally: 15 miles from the finish line of Vegas to Reno, I broke my chain guide and didn’t have the tools to fix it. After four hours stuck in the desert, a guy named Garrett Poucher stopped and had the tools I needed. We got to talking while working on getting my bike back together, and he invited me to come race the Baja 1000 with him and to try rally racing. We ended up on the podium of the score championship series, and then he got me to the Sonora rally.

I didn’t really know what I was doing. I thought it was a race, and that you have to go fast to win. I had only seen a roadbook once before, so I had no idea how to navigate or do any of this. I started the race just trying to go as fast as I could, and I’d get lost, go back, figure it out, keep going, try to follow Scott, realize I could go faster, pass Scott, and get lost again. By day two or three, Scott was so tired of me that he stopped in the middle of the race and explained to me why I kept making mistakes. Scott was trying to win the race, but he stopped his race to try to help me, a competitor, on how to do better and not get lost.

I ended up winning Sonora, and won the Dakar challenge, which got me a free entry to the Dakar rally. I went to Peru and raced there, and got my butt kicked again. I learned a bunch of gnarly lessons, but all of this just kept tracking me to where I am now.

Tell us about going from your first Dakar race to your first Dakar podium: My first Dakar, I went into it thinking that I needed to do well to get a factory ride. The second time, I thought, well, I’ve got the opportunity to go again, so I’m going to do nothing besides ride every mile, and just enjoy my time on a dirt bike – and I got 9th overall.

I had some serious adversity on my second Dakar. I broke my bike in half and Garrett had a big crash and he decided that he didn’t want to race or support the team anymore. I was on a stock bike at the time and knew I could do better with a better bike and no mechanical issues. I got a call from the BAS racing KTM team, and they told me they would give me the proper machinery, but it would be about $100,000. I told them I had about $2,000, so I’m going to need your help and if it comes down to it, I’m going to have to move to Holland to work in your shop to pay off my bill. I sold everything – my Hondas, my first Dakar bike Garrett gave me, my truck, everything that wasn’t nailed down. I got extremely fortunate selling shirts, doing riding schools, and from the help of so many people. I made it back to Dakar and got fifth overall.

Then the most gut-wrenching thing happened. I got fifth overall and thought now for sure I’m going to get a factory ride, but no call came. So I’m thinking, what did I do wrong? I sent email after email, just started getting after it putting myself in front of their faces until finally I got a response. Three weeks after that, I signed on to the Husqvarna program. In 2023 I became the 5th American to finish on the podium at the Dakar rally.

You got a new bike – tell us all about this new chapter: I’m super excited to sign with the Monster Energy Honda rally team. When I got started into rally I was on a Honda and my dream was to sign with the Honda rally program. Now to come full circle and end up here is such a cool feeling. Just in the short time that I have been on the team I’ve seen a huge shift in my motivation. To have the resources from such an iconic company like Honda and all of the perks of Monster Energy, it has opened a lot of doors and shined a new light on my training program and daily life.

But as far as racing goes, nothing changes for me. My focus stays the same, which is, just do the best I can. I came to the realization that this won’t be forever and I need to enjoy this part of my life as much as possible. I’m going to take every opportunity to the fullest and just give my all. When I look back later in life I’ll never be able to say “what if I tried harder.” Every day I will do my best and be happy about it.

Anything else you want to add: I want to give a big thank you to Upshift for always having my back and being a big supporter of me all the way from the beginning; and to be on the cover of such a rad publication is an honor. Thank you!

Skyler’s first rally aboard his Monster Energy Honda will be the Rally Du Maroc on October 12th. Here’s to seeing Skyler and his outstanding mustache on many more podiums in the years to come.

OUR BIGGEST CREATION YET

Yes, it looks like the rear of a classic 1970s American muscle car, ain’t that a beauty? But the design is just the start: there are several structural innovations, technical details and weight savings to make this new Maxia 5 our best ever, including a whopping 58 liter capacity to hold two fully loaded modular helmets.

V58NN MAXIA 5 GLOSSY BLACK, ALSO AVAILABLE IN TECH VERSION, WITH CLEAR LENSES

V58N MAXIA 5 MONOKEY® 58 LT CASE, WITH 4 METALLIC PAINTED COVERS

RESTORE YOUR FACTORY FINISH

MOTO SHINE MS1

THERE’S A NEW SCENT IN THE AIR

• Perfect, high-gloss shine

• Safe on all surface finishes

• Anti-static, dust repelling sheen

• Easy cleanup, mud releasing, protective film

• Fresh, scented formulation

YOUR FINISH

Follow us:

Be seen by others on your way to the trail. See it all when you’re headed back in the dark.

MORE CAPABILITY, LESS WEIGHT.

The original and the best. These forged 7075-T6 aluminum levers combine a tire spoon on one end and a wrench on the other. 2 or 3 of these with model specific wrenches should be in every tool kit. Levers can be purchased individually or in common sets.

*Weight of the set shown

BEADPRO ™ TIRE BEAD BREAKER & LEVER SET

There is no better way to break a bead and get to work on a tire repair than with the Motion Pro BeadPro levers. At just 9 ounces, this is a very reasonable addition considering what these tools can do for you.

T6 COMBO TIRE LEVERS

Dunlop Trailmax Raid Tires

Choosing tires for an adventure bike is an exercise in compromise. With stock wheels and road-focused tires, an adventure bike can be an absolute hoot to ride on the road and there is something that never gets old about getting after it in the corners. Yet when road-focused tires get into the dirt, especially in soft sand or in the mud, things can get scary in short order. The other end of the adventure bike wheel and tire spectrum is to run an off-road wheelset with narrower rim widths, which allows for running more aggressive dirt bike style tires. This essentially turns your adventure bike into a big dirt bike, and 100 + horsepower dirt bikes are their own unique kind of awesome. However, dirt bike knobby tires can be really scary (read: dangerous) on the road, and it’s definitely a buzz kill to have a perfect section of tar in front of you and dirt bike tires squirming around under you anytime you go anywhere near the throttle. Yet for riders who want on-road and off-road performance in one tire, there are a number of “adventure bike” tires on the market that are designed to provide a balance of offroad and on-road performance. Dunlop makes outstanding road and off-road tires, and their latest adventure bike tire, the Trail Max Raid is a 60/40 tire that is a shining example of how to combine top shelf performance from road and off-road tires into one tire.

Riders who are familiar with Dunlop tires, specifically the outstanding D908RR will instantly recognize elements of the Trail Max Raid’s design. The familiar bow-tie center blocks help provide impressive off-road grip on powerful adventure bikes, and in Raid trim, their design has been further optimized to perform well on the road in terms of both sound and grip. If you’re familiar with the howl that full knobbies or blocky tires can make on the road, know that the Raids are very quiet, even at high speeds. Dunlop’s new Hi Silica compound provides impressive performance in the wet and at cold temperatures, so much so that in Dunlop’s internal testing, the Raids lead to faster lap times in the wet than more road focused tires. The Trail Max Raids are available in both bias and radial ply construction, with 21 and 19 inch front sizes, and 17 and 18 inch rear sizes.

To get to know the Trail Max Raid we mounted a 90/90-21 front on to a 2.15inch rim and a 140/80-18 onto a 3.5inch rear rim that we installed on a KTM 890 Adventure R. Installing these bias ply sizes was unremarkable using ultra heavy duty tubes, and balancing took a reasonable amount of weight.

Our first ride on the Raids would prove to be a textbook example of why Adventure bikes are so awesome. Starting on a cold morning, we quickly got onto wide dirt roads that were comprised of sand and decomposing granite. On the hard packed and gravelly parts of the road, the Raids tracked straight and provided great levels of grip. Transitioning in and out of power slides was predictable, consistent, and as always great fun. A section of the road was in the process of getting bladed, and the Raids were equally confidence inspiring and composed in the soft sand. Fifty or so miles into the ride, the decomposed granite surface had given way to a regular dirt surface, and thanks to rainstorms moving all around us, the dirt had a perfect moisture content and the tires stuck like Velcro. Eventually, we lost the game of dodge the rainstorm, yet the Raids continued to provide predictable, consistent grip on the wet dirt road that was now full of embedded wet rocks.

After more than a half of a tank of riding all sorts of awesome dirt roads, we tied into a paved mountain pass that had all sorts of awesome corners. We may have even run the pass more than once because it’s that much fun. On this wonderful section of tar that climbs almost to tree line, the Raids quickly proved that they were great on road tires. This ride was one of those days that you’ll look back on and tell your buddies about. Hundreds of miles of awesome dirt and super fun slab, and thanks to the Trail Max Raids we were able to aggressively enjoy every mile of it.

Our next ride, would be one where we really lost the game of dodge the rainstorm. It was one of those deals where the place you needed to get to is completely obscured by a wall of falling water, and the only way to get there was to go right through it. A couple dozen miles into riding through this deluge, the dirt roads and two tracks that were our route were getting properly soaked, and in many cases debris flows were crossing the low spots in the road. One of these low spots had become a greasy mire of mud, and it’s here, and only here that the Raids slid around and things got sporty. In all fairness, things were also slick on full off-road knobbies at this point too.

After hundreds of miles of use including spirited canyon commutes to work and the aforementioned off-road use, the Raids are holding up great. Careful inspection of the tires has found only one minor slice in a block, which is quite impressive given the amount of time this tire has spent in the Rocky Mountains. Wear at this point is even, and we are curious to see just how many miles we can get out of these tires. Our plan at this point is to completely kill the tires, and report back with a mini-tested of sorts when we’ve done so. Yet for now, call us impressed with the Dunlop Trail Max Raids. They certainly have great road performance, and off-road they’ve proven to work quite well in everything but greasy mud. They’re certainly not full-height knobbies, but the Raids quite handily make up for that by not walking all about the place on the tar. Are these the new do-it-all adventure bike tire to beat? Time will tell, but so far the Trail Max Raids are looking quite good. For more information on Dunlop’s Trail Max Raid tire, visit the www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com

THE OFF-ROAD RIDER’S GPS

Available from September, 2023

A Month-Long Two-Up Journey

In the year 2020, we had a grand vision—a journey through the captivating landscapes of Norway. However, fate had a different plan for us. Just as we were preparing to embark on our adventure, the world was struck by the pandemic. Our dreams were put on hold, and uncertainty hung in the air.

Yet, amidst the chaos and disappointment, we held onto hope. We closely followed the news, awaiting the day when travel restrictions would be lifted. Months turned into a year, but our determination remained the same. And then, the day finally arrived. Norway reopened its doors to travelers and with a renewed sense of purpose, we planned our trip, eager to make up for lost time and embrace the freedom that the open road offered.

Norway called to us with the promise of a terrific adventure. It was a trip that would push us out of our comfort zone, riding together on a single-cylinder motorcycle, Yamaha XT660, through uncharted territories. One may think that riding two-up is romantic. It is. But in our case, the truth is, we had no other choice as only one of us knows how to ride. It was also a great opportunity to test if we can stand each other for such a long time, 24/7.

By Kewin Krawczyk www.advanywhere.com

To truly immerse ourselves in the wild beauty of Norway, we made a decision—to sleep beneath the stars in a tent and cook our meals on a simple gas burner. It was an invitation to embrace the untamed spirit of the land, to forge an intimate connection with nature itself.

We’re not fans of rigid travel plans. Spontaneity was our guide, allowing us the freedom to embrace unexpected adventures. A week before our journey, we secured ferry tickets to Sweden’s Karlskrona, and soon enough, we embarked on a month-long expedition across the land of the Vikings. The moment we sailed away from the mainland, a surge of excitement coursed through our veins.

After the night spent on a ferry, we arrived in Sweden. We quickly left the country, though—after all, this time we had other priorities—and in a few hours we crossed the border with Norway. Initially, wild camping opportunities were scarce. But as we ventured deeper into remote areas, we left behind the comfort of designated campgrounds and slept at the foothills, mountain peaks, near flowing rivers, and in forests.

Norway unfolded before us, its fjords and mountains inviting us to explore their hidden depths. With its Allemansrätten law, which acknowledges humans as an integral part of nature, the country granted us the freedom to immerse ourselves fully in the wonders of nature. Hiking, bathing in crystal-clear rivers, looking for wild treasures like blackberries, and finding a cozy spot to sleep under the vast sky became our way of life. We embraced this freedom with utmost respect for the environment that surrounded us.

Though sleeping in a tent every night for an entire month might have seemed daunting at first, we quickly discovered that we didn’t miss our cozy beds one bit. In the quiet solitude of the Norwegian nights, we found solace in the embrace of nature. Camping beneath the stars, we discovered a newfound sense of contentment. The comforts of home were replaced by the symphony of the wild, and we enjoyed the beauty of simplicity.

Those nights beneath the open sky brought us face-toface with extraordinary phenomena. It wasn’t the time when we could observe the northern lights, but one memorable moment occurred when we slept above the Lærdal tunnel. That night, we found ourselves mesmerized by the rare sight of Noctilucent clouds hovering over us! They are also called night-shining clouds and consist of ice crystals. From the ground, they are only visible during astronomical twilight at altitudes of around 76 to 85 km.

We knew that even though we had a lot of time, we couldn’t possibly explore every nook and cranny that Norway had to offer. So we treated this journey as a reconnaissance mission, scouting out the most scenic and winding routes to our main destination—Lofoten. During one of the ferry crossings, we encountered two Norwegian motorcyclists who shared their insider tips. Acting on their advice, we opted for the FV17 route despite it meant additional ferry crossings. The reward? Countless breathtaking vistas as the road traced the coastal landscapes.

Main image by Upshift Online

As we ventured deeper into Norway’s untamed heart, we found ourselves captivated by its unparalleled beauty. Majestic mountains stood as silent sentinels, their peaks kissed by wisps of ethereal clouds. The symphony of power and grace of waterfalls enticed us. And in the remote corners of the land, we discovered pockets of serenity—tranquil lakes reflecting the vibrant hues of the surrounding landscape.

Having crossed the Arctic Circle, we found ourselves inching closer to our primary goal—Lofoten. We spent our first day in the archipelago in pouring rain, quite disappointed. However, the next day we found clouds draped over the mountain peaks, while the surface of the water shimmered with a hypnotic allure. We felt as if we were trapped in a dream. Such natural beauty demanded our undivided attention, so we reveled in every moment. We would love to have more time to spend there.

Along the way, we made a stop at the town of Å, boasting the world’s shortest name, where the scenic European route E10 began. From there, we rode to Rørvikstranda beach and eventually arrived in the charming town of Henningsvær. As we studied the map, we realized that Nordkapp was very close. And just like that, we set our sights on a new objective—the North Cape. But before reaching our ultimate destination, we had a few more stops to make.

And so with Lofoten’s magic still lingering in our hearts, we set course for Senja Island, where we decided to extend our stay and indulge in our other passion—hiking. Norway’s vastness captivated us at every turn, but it was through the rhythm of our footsteps that we truly felt its immensity. Ascending to higher elevations, we emerged above the clouds and witnessed a sight that left us breathless. We had been traversing the depths of an ocean all along—the ocean of clouds, cascading down into the Norwegian Sea like a magnificent waterfall.

After a short active rest at Senja Island, we got on our motorcycle again and finally reached Nordkapp. As often happens while traveling, we crossed paths with other fellow motorcyclists. We spent some time with Daniel who came to Norway from Switzerland. Over coffee and conversations, Daniel persuaded us to seize the rare opportunity of spending a night beneath the open sky at Nordkapp. How could we resist? After warming ourselves at the tourist center, our duo split—one half seeking rest, while the other, armed with a camera and new friend, embarked on a quest for the most captivating, northernmost landscapes.

After the night spent at Nordkapp, we reluctantly began our southward journey. We had some time left to visit a must-see place for motorcyclists: The Trollstigen road. We rode it back and forth a few times but, mindful of catching the return ferry from Karlskrona to Gdynia, we quickly continued further. However, it wasn’t that easy to give up on all the views, so we made another stop and went for our second hike, this time by route 63. Our second and last hike in Norway during that trip…

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Accepting the thought that our journey is coming to an end, we enjoyed our last days. Music and podcasts filled our intercoms, and we marveled at the ever-changing panoramas along the E6 route. This way of living became our second nature. Even the cooking rituals, though time-consuming and punctuated by washing dishes in icy rivers, became enjoyable. “It’ll be hard to finish this trip”, “Maybe we should leave our jobs and stay here”, we thought.

And just when everything seemed perfect, we had to deal with an unexpected blow. Four days before our scheduled ferry departure, disaster struck—a flat tire. It doesn’t sound that bad, I know. Happens to everyone, right? But in this case, the odds were against us. It was Saturday evening and shops and workshops were already closed. They were supposed to be closed also the next day. In a race against time, we searched for help, resorting to contacting our insurance company. Unfortunately, their assistance wasn’t of the highest quality, providing a tow truck that would only transport us to a closed workshop just 300 meters away. Rain poured down relentlessly, and we faced the daunting prospect of a 1,000-kilometer journey with a tire in need of repair. Waiting until Monday was not an option if we were to catch our ferry. Desperation set in, but we had our guardian angel…

In our hour of need, an elderly man approached us, speaking fluent Polish and offering a helping hand. As it turned out, he was an employee of the workshop, and his kindness knew no bounds. With his expertise, the situation was swiftly resolved. A stubborn inner tube was patched up, the bike reassembled, and our bags securely fastened. Thanks to him, we were back on our way, forever grateful for his assistance.

With a renewed sense of calm, we continued our journey. Along the way, we made stops in Tromsø, Ålesund, and Oslo—cities that left us captivated by their architectural wonders, a seamless blend of tradition and modernity. Finally, we once again crossed the Norway-Sweden border. Turned out that we were so fast on our way to the ferry that we even had time to visit the Husqvarna Museum in Sweden. It was the perfect ending to our motorcycle odyssey.

And so, on the very last leg of our great Norwegian adventure, a mix of nostalgia and anticipation filled the air. As we rode from Huskvarna towards Karlskrona, we couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible memories we had gathered. The landscapes that had unfolded before us, the bonds forged with fellow adventurers, and the challenges that had tested our resilience.

As we boarded the ferry, the sun began to set, casting a warm golden glow on the horizon. It felt as if the land was bidding us farewell, whispering words of encouragement and urging us to keep seeking new horizons, to continue embracing the spirit of adventure that had brought us here.

The road ahead may be uncertain, but the memories and lessons from our Norwegian escapade will forever guide us. We learned to appreciate the simplicity of life, the beauty of nature, and the kindness of strangers. We discovered the joy of spontaneity, the thrill of exploring the unknown, and the resilience that lies within us.

And so, armed with the memories of our motorcycle adventure through Norway, we set our sights on future travels, eager to uncover new horizons. What’s next? Time will tell.

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Google images of “Greece”. Go ahead. I guarantee your browser’s page will be full of pictures of the white-washed buildings of Santorini and Mykonos, emerald-blue Aegean Sea beaches, the ancient Acropolis of Athens, and a few maps. What you won’t find are images of dual-sport or adventure motorcycles carving through these landscapes since most of these areas are off limits to vehicles of any kind. If you want to enjoy the backcountry of Greece on your trusty two-wheeled friend, then your best bet is to point your handlebars into the northern regions where the Pindus Mountain Range rises over 2,600 meters (8,500 feet) above the Mediterranean Sea. Fortunately, this is exactly where the creators of the Adventure Country Track (ACT) Greece planned a marvelous 5-day motorcycle riding adventure.

By Travis Gill viajarMOTO.com

After riding the ACT Portugal through the length of this wonderful southwestern country (UPSHIFT Issue 80), we were looking forward to experiencing even more of the myriad of published routes that are offered through the ACT website at www.adventurecountrytracks.com . At the time of this article, there are published ACT routes for the United Kingdom, Portugal, the Pyrenees, Italy, Romania, and Greece.

The ACT Greece is a bit different than other ACT routes because it includes a portion that loops around and crosses back over itself. From the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge in Rio, the route winds south into the mountains of the Peloponnese Peninsula. A 214 km (133 mile) figure-8 loop travels along mountain access roads that climb to a height above 1,900 meters (6,230 feet) and then drops back down into the lightly wooded town of Kalavryta before looping back again towards the start. After leaving the Peloponnese, the route then continues in similar fashion to other ACTs, as it winds north through the Pindus Mountain Range.

In total the route covers 920 km (570 miles) and is expected to take at least 5 days to traverse. The developers have designated the entire route as “medium/high” difficulty with 48 percent of it being offroad to include “rocks, more rocks, and gravel”. Due to the high mountain regions, the travel season for the ACT Greece is from May 15th to October 15th with seasonal snow and muddy terrain making it impossible to ride outside these months. The official language of Greece is, of course, Greek, but we found that most places would accommodate our English with the occasional help from Google Translate. The currency in Greece, like much of Europe, is the euro, and we found that nearly all restaurants, fuel stations, and grocery stores accept debit card transactions. However, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have about 100 euros of cash in your wallet – just in case.

Cooler Temperatures and No Crowds

With the latest update of the ACT Greece route and waypoints loaded into our Garmin GPS receivers, Chantil and I rode off the ferry ramp into sunny skies and the abnormally hot June afternoon of 32°C (90°F). We were eager to start riding some dirt and climb into the higher elevation of the mountains to cool off. Fortunately, within a short time, we were riding well-groomed gravel roads that snake around hearty bush-covered ridgelines and offer stunning views of the city of Patras and the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge that connects the Peloponnese to the mainland. Each summit provided stupendous views that had me clamoring for my camera in order to capture the memory.

On one particular summit, we were clamoring for our cellphone instead! As we neared the top of the ridge, we could smell the undeniable scent of fire and could see wisps of gray smoke that lingered near a herd of congregating cows. It’s not every day one comes across a fire in the wilderness, so we stopped to see if we could put it out. Unfortunately, it was just too big with the limited amount of water we carry on our BMW G650GS mules. We decided to call the regional emergency services by dialing 1-1-2 but weren’t even sure the dispatcher would be able to understand us! Fortunately, most Europeans are bilingual, if not multilingual, and we were able to report the fire location using the latitude and longitude positions from our GPS. The dispatcher assured us she would relay the information and we continued on down the trail with hopes that we wouldn’t be engulfed in a fire storm later that day. The entire experience was one of the weirdest things we have come across in the wilderness – a herd of smoking cows.

On another summit we noticed a small group of heavy dark-gray clouds that were forming between us and the valley below. We stopped to quietly marvel at the power of Zeus unleashing a tiny temper-tantrum and contemplated about how isolated we were in this small patch of backcountry. In 2022, more than 30-million tourists conglomerated to popular destinations like Athens and the Aegean islands of Santorini and Mykonos, yet here we were, just the two of us, enjoying the power of a small rainstorm in this relatively unvisited region of Greece.

Deviation to Delphi

Although riding the entire ACT Greece from start to finish is an adventure in itself, it’s worth deviating from the route in order to learn more about the history and culture of this region of Greece. Our first deviation, to the Archaeological Site of Delphi, was definitely worth the one-hour ride along the coast via the Greek National Road 48. Delphi was one of the most important centers of ancient Greece – even considered to be the center of the world. Greek mythology suggests that Zeus released two eagles from the east and west and they flew towards each other at the same speed. They crossed paths at Delphi thus becoming the Omphalos or “navel of the Earth.” An ancient marble monument, or stone, was placed in the Temple of Apollo to mark the center. During the persecution of pagan beliefs of the late 4th century AD, most Greek religious sites were destroyed by the Roman Empire. What little remained was subsequently damaged by earthquakes, landslides, and buried underneath a small village named Kastri. It wasn’t until centuries later, in the 1860s, that German and French archaeologists began researching and excavating ancient Delphi.

Today one can walk among the ruins of marble foundations and columns, sandwiched between olive trees and the two towering rocks of Mount Parnassus, known as the Phaidriades, or Shining Rocks. The impressive, and recently remodeled, Delphi Archaeological Museum houses a vast collection of 8th and 7th centuries BC artifacts including bronze figures and armor, exquisitely crafted marble statues and reliefs, and the impressive Sphinx of Naxos which would have been a main centerpiece of the original Temple of Apollo.

As we returned to our parked mules, we contemplated what life would have been like for ancient visitors who would have traveled from all over Greece to reach this sacred site. We both agreed it would be quite impressive to witness. However, we were also grateful for our modern gasoline-powered motorcycles – Our personal horse-drawn chariots that are perfectly designed for discovering more of the backcountry of ACT Greece.

Wild Dogs and Wild Camping

One of the first things you notice about riding in Greece is the number of stray dogs that roam the cities, beaches, and countrysides. It’s estimated that nearly 1-million stray dogs live freely in Greece and it’s not uncommon to see them in small packs walking along the sides of the roads or lounging in the afternoon shade of a tree. Nearly all of them seemed to maintain a cautious distance from us and our motorcycles, at least until Chantil would break out her small bag of doggie treats.

During one evening of wild camping, we were visited by a lovely brown and black hound-dog. He approached us cautiously while sniffing as he courageously got closer, but it wasn’t long before he warmed up to us and we could pet him. We ended up sharing a bit of our dinner, which he seemed to thoroughly enjoy – especially the meatballs we added to our spaghetti. That night we went to sleep and fully expected that he would be on his merry way – looking for the next doggie adventure over the horizon. When we woke up the next morning, we were surprised to see that he was happily curled up, on the grass, right next to the tent. It made us sad to have to say “vassas” (goodbye) to him the next day, but we hoped our kindness and short friendship made his day a bit better.

The Magical Monasteries of Meteora

Our second deviation from the ACT Greece was a visit to the spectacular Monasteries of Meteora. The word meteora means “lofty” or “elevated” and adequately describes the various monasteries precipitously balanced on mystical rock pillars that jet upwards from the rolling countryside. It is believed the area was settled by monks in the 11th century, who lived among the lower lying caves. During the oppression of the Ottoman occupation, the monks climbed higher and higher until they were living on the inaccessible peaks. By the 14th century, twenty-four monasteries were established – all built using ladders and baskets to bring the building materials to the summit. Until the 1920s, pilgrims and monks had to be hoisted 370 meters (1,200 feet) to the top using a system of ropes and pulleys. There’s even a story of a nervous pilgrim climbing into the basket and asking the monks if they regularly replace the ropes. “Of course we do – whenever they break!”

Today six monasteries remain and offer regular hours for visitors to walk among the well-manicured gardens and balconies that provide spectacular views of the surrounding countryside and the town of Kalabaka.

Celebrating our Completion with a Loux

The last day of the ACT Greece was filled with excitement as we neared the final spectacular destination and views of the Vikos Gorge. This is the second deepest gorge in the world, superseded to the grandest of all canyons – The Grand Canyon of the United States. As we neared the end of the magenta track on our GPS receiver, we made sure to stop by a roadside kiosk and pick up our favorite Greek soft drink – a lemonade and orange Loux. It felt like a fitting non-alcoholic drink to commemorate the completion of riding the entire ACT without any breakdowns or injuries.

The final 200 meters (650 feet) of the ACT Greece has to be done on foot. We parked at the large lot, kicked down our sidestands, grabbed our Loux drinks, and hiked the final steps to the viewpoint. With a hearty high-five and a hug, we celebrated our journey through some of the most beautiful regions of Greece – all without the crowds and heat associated with the Greek islands in summer.

After our short celebration, we plotted a route from Vikos Gorge to the large city of Thessaloniki, where we had a new pair of Heidenau K60 Scout tires waiting for us. We wanted fresh treads for riding the ACT Romania, but first we had plans to spend some time in the next neighboring country of Bulgaria. More adventure awaits…

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