Upstater Summer 2015

upstater S U M M E R 2015

Live like a local.

THIS MAGAZINE IS I S A TR I B UTE TO LIVI NG A

CONNECTED LIFE T H E A R T S 14

FOOD 32

COMMUNITY 80

SUMMER 2015

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Nestled in and around Rhinebeck’s tree-lined village, are over 60 independent speciality shops, restaurants, spas, studios, retreats and a renowned art film house.

EAT Aroi Thai

Gigi Trattoria

Pete’s Famous

The Local

aroirestaurant.com ph: (845) 876-1114

gigihudsonvalley.com ph: (845) 876-1007

ph: (845) 876-7271

thelocalrestaurantandbar.com ph: (845) 876-2214

Bread Alone Bakery & Restaurant

Le Petit Bistro

Pizzeria Posto

The Shelter

breadalone.com ph: (845) 876-3108

lepetitbistro.com ph: (845) 876-7400

postopizzeria.com ph: (845) 876-3500

shelterwinebar.com ph: (845) 876-1500

Calico Restaurant & Patisserie

Liberty Public House

Rhinebeck Bagel

calicorhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-2749

ph: (845)876-1760

rhinebeckbagels.com ph: (845) 876-8025

Cinnamon Indian Restaurant

Market St.

Samuel’s of Rhinebeck

cinnamoncuisine.com ph: (845) 876-7510

marketstrhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-7200

shopsamuels.com ph: (845) 876-5312

Gaby’s Mexican Cafe

Osaka

Terrapin

gabyscafe.com ph: (845) 516-4363

osakasushi.net ph: (845) 876-7338

terrapinrestaurant.com ph: (845) 876-3330

Cabin Fever Outfitters

Hundred Mile

Pure Mountain Olive Oil

Spruce Design & Decor

cabinfeveroutfitters.com ph: (845) 876-6005

100mileny.com ph: (845) 516-4522

puremountainoliveoil.com ph: (845) 876-4645

sprucedesigndecor.com ph: (845)-876-5864

Darryl’s

Merriweather’s

Rhinebeck Antiques Emporium

Sunflower Natural Foods Market

darrylsny.com ph: (845) 876-8800

merriweathers.com ph: (845) 876-8222

sunflowernatural.com ph : (845) 876-2555

Dorrer Jewelers

Oblong Books & Music

rhinebeckantiqueemporium.com ph: (845) 876-8168

dorrerjewelers.com ph: (845) 516-4236

oblongbooks.com ph: (845) 876-0500

TulipRhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-2212

Floral Fantasies

Paper Trail

Rhinebeck Artist’s Shop/ Atwater Gallery

floralfantasiesbysara.com ph: (845) 876-0400

papertrailrhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-8050

Haldora

Pegasus Footwear

haldora.com ph: (845) 876-6250

pegasusshoes.com ph: (845)876-7474

Hammertown

Periwinkles

hammertown.com ph: (845) 876-1450

periwinklesatrhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-4014

SHOP

Hummingbird Jewelers

rhinebeckart.com ph: (845) 876-4922

Rhinebeck Department Store rhinebeckstore.com ph: (845) 876-5500

Sawkille Co. Furniture

Tulip Waddle n Swaddle waddlenswaddle.com ph: (845) 876-5952

Winter Sun & Summer Moon wintersunsummermoon.com ph: (845) 876-3555

sawkille.com ph: (845) 876-2228

Sharp Images Photographic sharpimagesphotographic.com ph: (845) 876-3887

hummingbirdjewelers.com ph: (845) 876-4585

EXPERIENCE Allure Aveda Salon

FACE Stockholm

allurerhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-7774

facestockholm.com ph: (845) 876-2200

IZLIND Integrative Wellness Center & Institute

Rhinebeck Chamber Of Commerce

izlind.com ph: (845) 516-4713

Satya Yoga

Betsy Jacaruso Studio & Gallery

Fiber Flame Studio

betsyjacarusostudio.com ph: (845) 516-4435

fiberflamestudio.com ph: (845) 516-5123

Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome

Clear Yoga

Haven Spa

oldrhinebeck.org ph: (845) 752-3200

clearyogarhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-6129

havenrhinebeck.com ph: (845) 876-7369

Omega Institute

Hudson Valley Pottery / P.A.Gibbons Studio

eomega.org ph: (845) 266-4444

hudsonvalleypottery.com ph: (845) 876-3190

rhinebeckfarmersmarket.com

Dr. Tom’s Tonics drfrancescott.com ph: (845) 876-5556

rhinebeckchamber.com ph: (845) 876-5904 satyayogacenter.us ph: (845) 876-2528

Upstate Films upstatefilms.org ph: (845) 876-2515

Rhinebeck Farmer’s Market

STAY WhistleWood Farm Bed & Breakfast whistlewood.com ph: (845) 876-6838

Find EnjoyRhinebeck on: SUMMER 2015

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RHINEBECK

EnjoyRhinebeck.com 2

Photo by Craig Peyton

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TABLE of

CONTENTS 64

upstater SUMMER 2015

Dalton Edwards and Josh Venne of The Beacon Bite food truck.

A Weekend in Beacon Photo by Thomas Smith

FRESH CONTENT EVERY DAY AT

upstater.com

FEATURES

14 22 32 44 52 59 64 6

upstater

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40

THE ARTS

Creative Space

4 creative ex-NYers who’ve made it here Story by Upstater Staff / Photos by Roy Gumpel DESTINATIONS

Day Tripping

9 day-trip itineraries Story by Kandy Harris FOOD + DRINK

From Crop to Kitchen

7 local farm-to-table restaurants Story and photos by Bradley Hawks

UPSTATERS

WEEKENDER

A Weekend in the ’Gunks

A Shawangunk Ridge exploration Story by Kandy Harris / Photos by Thomas Smith FOOD + DRINK

Unprohibited

6 favorite Prohibition-cocktail purveyors Story and photos by Bradley Hawks OFF THE GRID

THIS & THAT

33

ZAK PELACCIO

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CHRISTOPHER WILLIAMS

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AN UPSTATER’S TRANSITION

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SIMI STONE

25

WEEKEND GIVEAWAY CONTEST

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MELISSA AUF DER MAUR

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MAP: SUMMERTIME IN THE HV

MISSION STATEMENT

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MARK RUFFALO

68

WHICH HV TOWN ARE YOU?

An experimental family farm Story by Ann L. Hutton / Photos by Matt Petricone

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JENNY BROWN & DOUG ABEL

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INFOGRAPHIC: REAL ESTATE

WEEKENDER

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JASON SCHULER

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LAST LOOK

Visiting the other Brooklyn Story by B.J.Cronin / Photos by Thomas Smith

Front cover: Exiled, Armando Marino / photo courtesy Thomas Jaeckel, 532 Gallery

Rustic and Righteous

A Weekend in Beacon

/ u p s t a t e r.c o m

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EDITORIAL

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EDITOR

Susan Piperato susan@luminarypublishing.com ART DIRECTOR

Jason Cring jcring@luminarypublishing.com PROOFREADER

Barbara Ross

CONTRIBUTORS

THIS MAGAZINE IS D E D I C AT E D T O L I V I N G A

CONNECTED LIFE CONNECTED TO

CONNECTED TO WHERE OUR

NATURE FOOD

COMES

FROM

CONNECTED TO OUR

CONNECTED TO OUR

FAMILIES WORK

MAKING

HANDS FOOD COCKTAILS MAKING

MAKING

FRIENDS DINNER LOV E MAKI NG TI M E TO LIVE OU R

WILDEST DREAMS T H AT ’ S W H AT L I V I N G L I K E A L O C A L M E A N S TO U S

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL 8

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CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Amara Projansky

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Brian K. Mahoney CHAIRMAN

David Dell

Upstater is a project of Luminary Publishing.

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LUMINARY PUBLISHING 314 Wall Street, Kingston, NY 12401 (845) 334-8600 | fax (845) 334-8610 luminarypublishing.com All contents © Luminary Publishing 2015 For extended coverage of the upstater lifestyle, join us at upstater.com.

Upstater was founded in 2011 and acts as a guide for living, buying, renting, and vacationing in upstate New York. Our writers have hearts, mortgages, and legacies in the Hudson Valley.

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AN UPSTATER’S TRANSITION

S T O RY A N D I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y C A R O L I TA J O H N S O N

HOW I B E CAM E AN

UPSTATER

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Carolita Johnson is a Kingston-based cartoonist whose work appears in The New Yorker.

YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO. NEW WEEK AT S U MCONTENT M E R 2 0EVERY 1 5 11

upstater.com/relocating

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Get and early start on your college search!

Tour campus and explore the Mount’s academic programs, and meet with current students, faculty, coaches, and staff.

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Imagining an Upstater lifestyle… engage with © REALTORS who get it

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CREATIVE THE ARTS

S T O RY B Y U P S TAT E R S TA F F / P H O T O S B Y R O Y G U M P E L

SPACE 14 upstater

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The Hudson River was originally called Muhheakantuck, which translates as “the river that flows both ways,” by the Lenape tribe that lived along both its banks, from the mid-Hudson Valley all the way down to Manhattan and New Jersey. But when it comes to culture, traditionally, ever since Manhattan was settled, the flow has been upriver, with creative types who’ve made good in New York establishing second homes to use as retreats from the city’s constant hum, or even moving to the Hudson Valley to spend their golden years. But not these days. More and more creative types are fleeing New York City, not to enjoy the fruits of the careers they’ve made there, but to develop their talents upstate, where it’s quieter and calmer, space is cheaper, and both the wilderness and community are readily available.

One reason for that is economics, since creative types are increasingly being priced out of New York, but the Hudson Valley also seems to offer a sense of freedom—physical, intellectual, and artistic—that can only be found far from the madding crowd. Here are just a few of the artists and writers who’ve fled the city to thrive upstate.

KEVIN PAULSEN ARTIST/MURALIST It took a few wrong turns to bring artist Kevin Paulsen to Kingston.

Back in 1997, while living in Nantucket, Massachusetts, he began scouting the Hudson Valley for loft space.

“I wanted a really big studio,” says Paulsen, a muralist and painter who is originally from Kansas City, Missouri. “I was tired of Nantucket, tired of the isolation of island living.... I had a lot of off-island work and was showing at galleries in New York, so probably 50 percent of my work was elsewhere. It was just easier to be on the mainland and get the space that I needed to do murals and big paintings.”

One day, he made a rest stop in Kingston en route to New York City, got lost, and, in the process, changed his life. “Getting off the Thruway, there are all these one-way streets in Uptown Kingston, and it’s confusing if you don’t know the area,” he says. “I got lost on Wall Street, and I liked the look of it.”

Paulsen rented a three-story, 4,500-square-foot building, built in the early 1900s. “It was big and cheap and had an open floor plan,” he says. “I liked the old buildings on the street, and I liked the quiet.” Plus, he says, “It’s close to the Thruway, and closer to New York.”

The former department store had been empty for decades and lacked heat and electricity. Unfazed, Paulsen spent a year gutting the building to create living and workspaces.

“Kingston’s always had interesting folks. There’s just more of them now.”

Today, Paulsen lives comfortably on the second floor. His thirdfloor studio space has plenty of natural light—a far cry from the original “tar-papered-over broken windows and dust-covered dead space.” There, Paulsen creates murals for the likes of National Football League Commissioner Roger Goodell, as well as paintings and collages to show at Nantucket galleries Gráficas and Nantucket House Interiors, Kenise Barnes Fine Art in Larchmont, and Bergdorf Goodman in Manhattan.

Paulsen sometimes worries that Kingston’s increasing popularity will make it unaffordable for new artists, but he’s pleased to see the city flourishing, and helps bring street art to the now nationally known O+ Festival. “I like Kingston a lot,” he says. “It’s always had interesting folks. There’s just more of them now.”

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Photo by Thomas Smith

JONAH MEYER AND TARA DELISIO FURNITURE MAKERS Some consider Sawkille Co., in Rhinebeck, a showroom, but others approach the space as a gallery. In either case, Sawkille Co. draws visitors into a comfort zone that comes from an uncluttered space. The warmth of the handmade solid wood furnishings, with their down-to-earth style, conveys an airy and primitive aesthetic. Sawkille’s handcrafted conceptual pieces are beautifully functional and honestly durable—the epitome of modern rusticity. Large handcrafted wood dining tables created by co-owner Jonah Meyer mingle with handmade objects from other fine Hudson Valley artisans. Meyer’s furniture is complemented by ceramics and hand-forged wall hooks and other inspired wall art, giving each piece the breathing space and consideration it deserves. “We design and build work that will improve with time and use,” says Meyer. “We hope to add something lovely to an environment that you cultivate, to inspire and nurture yourself or someone you know.” Meyer implements traditional wood joinery and finishing techniques with his adept handwork that seamlessly blends the mixed local woods with finely detailed industrial metalwork. His time-honored woodworking skills combine classically formed furniture, creating heirloom-quality pieces with an understated elegance. Each table, chair, and storage unit is a functional work of art that Meyer calls “farmhouse modern.” As a Rhode Island School of Designeducated multidimensional artisan, Meyer moved to the Catskills after college to create pottery and sculpture. He and his wife and business partner, Tara Delisio, initially established Sawkille outside Woodstock by opening a showroom that displayed small-production designs. Delisio, who grew up in Woodstock, runs the website and writes a delightful accompanying blog, providing a peek into Sawkille’s inner world.

“God, we’ve got two record stores! There probably aren’t two record stores in New York City now.”

OWEN KING WRITER Owen King is the youngest member of the Bangor, Maine, literary dynasty that includes Stephen King, Tabitha King, and Joe Hill, born Joseph Hillstrom King (his sister, Naomi King, is a Unitarian minister).

But King’s pedigree isn’t something he’ll wave in anyone’s face—neither within his work, including his 2013 debut novel, Double Feature, nor to anyone he meets. “I have a sense of what people would like to hear—that the novel’s very autobiographical, a lot of dirt, that I write horror novels— but it’s just not the truth. I’m very close to my family, very grateful to my parents and admiring of their work,” he says. “The answers are kind of bland because the truth is kind of bland.” Since 2008, King has lived in New Paltz with his wife, novelist Kelly Braffet (Save Yourself, 2013).

(The couple met as MFA students at Columbia, and moved upstate when they realized that even though they loved Brooklyn, they needed more space.) Instead, King is far more likely to promulgate the Hudson Valley, his adopted region, for fictional locations. Double Feature, the story of a filmmaker son with auteur aspirations who’s pitted against a largerthan-life actor father who made his name in the genre aisle of a video store, contains scenes from Vassar College (King’s alma mater), funky New Paltz cafés, the Huguenot Street cemetery, the Hyde Park Drive-In, and Kingston’s multiplex. “Kelly’s from western Pennsylvania, north of Pittsburgh, and I’m from Maine. Neither of us are city people,” says King.

“New Paltz is just a good place to live. God, we’ve got two record stores!

There probably aren’t two record stores in New York City now.”

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ELISA ALBERT NOVELIST No-holds-barred feminist novelist Elisa Albert grew up on the west side of Los Angeles, then moved east. After studying at Brandeis University, she completed an MFA at Columbia University, and moved to Albany with her novelist husband Ed Schwarzschild, an English professor at SUNY Albany. A townhouse in Albany’s downtown has become home not only to the couple and their son Miller, but also to Albert’s burgeoning writing career. After publishing a short story collection lauded for its sharp, deadpan wit (Why This Night Is Different, 2006) and a debut novel (The Book of Dahlia, 2008), Albert began writing her third book, After Birth, which was published earlier this year, in 2010, about a year after Miller was born.

The novel is not autobiographical, but incorporates substantial senseof-place details, and, according to New York Times Book Review critic Merritt Tierce, “cuts open the body of literature on mothering, birth, feminism, female friendship, female hateship—whether academic treatise or poem or novel—and wrenches out something so new we barely recognize it. Wet, red, slimy, alive: a truth baby.” And that hard-born

truth, along with Albany’s grim, introspection-inducing weather detailed in After Birth, has been propelling Albert toward other realizations. In a 2014 column for Time magazine, “Rich Moms of the First World, Stop Fighting About Breastfeeding,” she acknowledges the fact that whatever choice American women make about feeding their babies, other American women shame them—meanwhile, baby formula is so heavily marketed to third-world women that they have no choice in the matter. Thanks to Albert’s deep engagement with breastfeeding and birthing politics, she’s recently become a certified doula, inspired

by Hudson Valley poet and editor Rebecca Wolff, and structures many of her bookstore events as conversations, appearing with Hudson Valley literati like Wolff, Jenny Offill, Chloe Caldwell, and Orli Auslander.

That way, a booksigning “turns into consciousness raising, a bunch of women and a handful of men saying, ‘Why doesn’t anyone talk about this?’” Albert says. “I love when that happens.”

NEW CONTENT EVERY WEEK S U M CREATIVE M E R 2 0 1CLASS. 5 18 AT

upstater.com/arts

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A Selective

GUIDE to the HUDSON VALLEY’S

INNUMERABLE ASSETS FOR

MAKING ART ART CENTERS Art Centro Ceramics classes, art studio, and gallery; kids’ workshops; studio rentals; home of the Northeast Ceramics Sculpture Exhibition and Community Clay Day. Classes in English and Spanish.

485 Main Street, Poughkeepsie / 845.454.4525 artcentro.org A.I.R. Studio Gallery An artists’ collective studio hosting weekly gatherings, musical performances, poetry readings, kids’ art classes, and New Moon UFO Watches.

71 O’Neil Street, Kingston / 845.331.2662 angelfire.com/indie/airstudio/index.html The Arts Upstairs No judge or jury here, just mutual respect and humor. 35 percent commission charged on all works sold. Volunteers receive a smaller commission.

60 Main Street, Phoenicia / 845.688.2142 artsupstairs.com

Woodstock Artists Association and Museum Since 1919, WAAM has collected and exhibited work in all media by local artists. Second Saturdays offer group, individual, and youth shows.

28 Tinker Street, Woodstock / 845.679.2940 woodstockart.org Women’s Studio Workshop Founded in 1974, this artists’ workspace encourages the voices and visions of women artists through workshops, exhibitions, studio rentals, and career support.

722 Binnewater Lane, Rosendale / 845.658.9133 wsworkshop.org Unison Arts Center A nonprofit offering workshops in an array of media; classes in dance, permaculture, and spirituality; children’s art camps; an art gallery; performances; and an outdoor labyrinth.

68 Mountain Rest Road, New Paltz / 845.255.1559 unisonarts.org

Newburgh’s Safe Harbors of the Hudson Valley displays photographs by Dmitri Kasterine (left) and a mural by Dasic Fernandez (right). Photos by Roy Gumpel

oil paints created by New York City artist Jacob Ouillette and featuring rare and proprietary colors.

5 Grand Street, Newburgh / 845.561.5552 newburghartsupply.com R&F Handmade Paints All encaustics, all the time, including handmade paints and boards, pigment sticks, studio rentals, and workshops.

84 Ten Broeck Avenue, Kingston / 845.331.3112 rfpaints.com

STUDIO VISITS Art Walks Visit Kingston’s art galleries on First Saturdays

(askforarts.org) and Beacon’s on Second Saturdays (beaconarts.org).

7th Annual Art Studio Views Labor Day Weekend open studios of 19 artists in Red Hook and Rhinebeck. Free. artstudioviews.com / facebook.com/artstudioviews

Barrett Art Center Founded in 1935 by local artists, a gallery, workshops studio, and gathering place for local artists in a National Register of Historic Places-listed building. Home of the Dutchess County Arts Council. Annual juried photography and art shows.

ART SUPPLIES

ARTISTS’ HOUSING OPPORTUNITIES

Catskill Art & Office Supply Over 30,000 art products at three locations. Framing and copy shop. Discounts for professionals and students.

55 Noxon Street, Poughkeepsie / 845.471.2550 barrettartcenter.org

328 Wall Street, Kingston / 845.331.7780 800 Main Street, Poughkeepsie / 845.452.1250 35 Mill Hill Road, Woodstock / 845.679.2251 catskillart.com

The Lace Factory This century-old factory has been transformed into The Lace Mill, Where Artists Live. Check out its block party on August 14. Apply now to live in one of 55 spacious units in midtown Kingston’s thriving arts district at Rural Ulster Preservation Corp.

Hudson Valley Pottery & Studio Fully equipped pottery studio offering workshops, classes, private lessons, and birthday parties.

18 Garden Street, Rhinebeck / 845.876.3190 hudsonvalleypottery.com Mill Street Loft Award-winning 33-year-old institution offering a gallery, studio, and workshops in all media; Dutchess Art Camp; Junior Art Institute; and community outreach programs.

45 Pershing Avenue, Poughkeepsie / 845.471.7477 millstreetloft.org

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Manny’s Art Supplies The Hudson Valley’s first art supplies store, founded in 1962, still stands proud. 20 percent discounts for professionals and students.

83 Main Street, New Paltz / 845.255.9902 mannysart.com Newburgh Art Supply Earth-friendly art supplies, papers, oils, pastels, plein air products, kids’ art products (crayon rocks!), and handcrafted East Coast Colors

289 Fair Street, Kingston / 845.331.2140 rupco.org Safe Harbors of the Hudson A nonprofit on a mission to transform lives and build community in Newburgh through affordable housing and the arts with Cornerstone Residence (affordable live/workspace for artists), Ann Street Gallery (group and solo shows; community paint-in on August 1), and the Ritz Theater (newly renovated intimate performance space).

Cornerstone Residence / 111 Broadway, Newburgh / (845) 562-6940 Ann Street Gallery / 104 Broadway, Newburgh / (845) 784-1146 The Ritz Theater / 107 Broadway, Newburgh / (845) 784-1199 safe-harbors.org

LOCALMUSICIAN Photo by Fionn Reilly

CeleBrAtiNg HuDSoN VAlleY FooD, FArMS, & Beer

MELISSA AUF DER MAUR

“We had to live somewhere with a lot of history and real, old architecture, but it also had to be somewhere with natural beauty.”

Melissa Auf der Maur laughs off the Hudson Valley’s brutal winters, which the locals like to complain about well into summer.

The former bassist of 1990s bands Tinker, Hole (with Courtney Love), and Smashing Pumpkins, Auf der Maur grew up in Montreal, so in comparison with that city’s longer, more deeply subzero climes, Hudson, where she lives now, seems “like a summer holiday.” So, how did she get there? Love brought Auf der Maur to Hudson, but not the Courtney kind.

As the story goes, after leaving Hole in 1999 and returning to Smashing Pumpkins in time for its farewell tour, Auf der Maur saw the Viking saga Severed Ways and fell in love with its indie filmmaker, Tony Stone, a Bard College alumnus and the son of artist Bill Stone, a part-time resident of Germantown. When the couple connected, Stone introduced her to his old stomping grounds. Auf der Maur and Stone bought an 1850s brick two-story in Hudson in 2008. “We had to live somewhere with a lot of history and real, old architecture, but it also had to be somewhere with natural beauty,” she says. “Hudson felt perfect, though we had no idea how perfect until after we’d moved here. There’s a real phenomenon in this town, these complex hidden layers of character that keep revealing themselves.” In a further investment in Hudson, the Stone family also bought the massive Basilica Industria building, a 19th-century factory on Front Street, just a few doors from the Amtrak station, and converted it into an international alternative arts center housing music performance/ festival and rehearsal spaces, film production and recording facilities, visual art exhibitions, a farmers’ and flea market, and more. Basilica opened in 2011, and has flourished since then, thanks to Auf der Maur’s creative direction and quirky events like the annual Ramps Festival and, most recently, 24-Hour Drone: Experiments in Sound and Music, promising “low-frequency fun.”

845.485.BREW 289 Mill Street, PougHkee Poug keePSie

www.MillHouseBrewing.com SUMMER 2015

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DESTINATIONS

S T O RY B Y K A N DY H A R R I S

DAY TRIPPING the Hudson Valley + Catskills photo by Roy Gumpel

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Cedar Grove, Kaaterskill Falls, and Pippy’s Hot Dog Truck When it comes to the Hudson Valley, so much to see, so little time. Luckily, these nine destinations are perfect for a day trip, no overnight stay required—but these quick visits can also easily convert to weekend stays.

In the quaint village of Catskill, check out Cedar Grove Historic Site, where Hudson River School founder Thomas Cole painted from 1827 until his death in 1848, inspired by the Catskill Mountains’ natural beauty. Afterward, head west toward Palenville, stopping at Kaaterskill Falls for a hike. Fawn’s Leap, the ledge overlooking the stunning waterfall, was the subject of Asher Durand’s famous painting Kindred Spirits, in which he eulogized Cole and William Cullen Bryant. In need of refreshments after all that walking and looking? Try a bahn mi dog from Pippy’s Hot Dog Truck in the picturesque village of Palenville.

CEDAR GROVE/THOMAS COLE HISTORIC SITE 218 Spring Street, Catskill / (518) 943-7465 / thomascole.org KAATERSKILL FALLS hikethehudsonvalley.com/kaaterskill-falls/ PIPPY’S HOT DOG TRUCK Junction of Route 23A and 32A, Palenville / (845) 853-2287 / pippyshotdogtruck.com

Omega Institute

A weekend at the world-famous Omega Institute is all about wellness. Take a yoga class, register for one of Omega’s 350 workshops per year, focusing on mind, body, and spirit; creative expression; sustainability; health and healing; relationships and family; or leadership and work. Top off that wellness experience with delicious, mostly vegetarian and vegan fare at the Omega Café. Be sure to explore the Institute’s beautiful 200-acre campus.

OMEGA INSTITUTE 150 Lake Drive, Rhinebeck / (845) 266-4444 / eomega.org

Saugerties Lighthouse

Ever slept in a lighthouse? Here’s a chance, with a sumptuous breakfast and stunning river views included.

In Saugerties village, there lies a half-mile trail, lush with vegetation, that runs along the edge of a tiny peninsula that juts into the Hudson and eventually ends up at the Saugerties Lighthouse. The lighthouse, built in 1859, also happens to be a much-sought-after B&B with just two double rooms ($225/night, including breakfast) facing east and south over the river.

SAUGERTIES LIGHTHOUSE 168 Lighthouse Drive, Saugerties / (845) 247-0656 / saugertieslighthouse.com

Overlook Mountain, KTD Monastery, and Shindig

Before starting to hike up Overlook to the ruins of the Mountain House and the fire tower at the top, visit the Karma Triyana Dharmachakra Monastery, directly across from the trailhead. KTD is the North American seat of His Holiness the Gyalwa Karmapa, Ugyen Trinley Dorje, Supreme Head of the Karma Kagyu School of Tibetan Buddhism. Daylong and weekend workshops on a variety of Buddhist topics are available, or simply drop in to behold KTD’s shrine and check out its chockablock bookstore. After descending from the mountaintop, enjoy some hearty traditional American repast at Shindig, a tiny, friendly restaurant that opened this spring and is already popular with the locals. It’s right on Tinker Street, conveniently located near the Trailways bus stop.

Pippy’s Hot Dog Truck entrepreneur Heather Williams.

KARMA TRIYANA DHARMACHAKRA 335 Meads Mountain Road, Woodstock / (845) 679-5906 / kagyu.org OVERLOOK MOUNTAIN TRAILHEAD Meads Mountain Road, Woodstock / hikethehudsonvalley.com/overlook-mountain SHINDIG 1 Tinker Street, Woodstock / (845) 684-7091 / woodstockshindig.com SUMMER 2015

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A visit to the farm’s charming menagerie will make you smile: There are angora goats, llamas, alpacas, donkeys, honeybees, heritage chickens, and peacocks aplenty.

Photo courtesy of Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa.

Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa

Buttermilk Falls Inn is the ultimate go-to for comfort.

This 75-acre estate overlooking the Hudson River has everything needed to pamper the body and lift the spirit, from its eco-friendly day spa and lavenderscented steam room to its captivating orchards, exquisite gardens, and rolling hills to organic, locavore food grown on the premises at Millstone Farm (including homemade honey) and served at the inn’s own restaurant, Henry’s at the Farm. And if that isn’t enough to cancel out thoughts of the working week, a visit to the farm’s charming menagerie will make you smile: There are angora goats, llamas, alpacas, donkeys, honeybees, heritage chickens, and peacocks aplenty.

BUTTERMILK FALLS INN AND SPA 220 North Road, Milton / (845) 795-1310 / buttermilkfallsinn.com

Shawangunk and Dutchess Wine Trails The Hudson Valley rivals Napa Valley for its fine wine, so take a taste along the Shawangunk and Dutchess Wine Trails. Shawangunk (west of the Hudson River) offers a trail map of 14 wineries, many of which are in the New Paltz/Gardiner area and feature spectacular views of the Shawangunk Ridge.

Dutchess (east of the Hudson) features Clinton and Millbrook Wineries, set against a backdrop of hilly, woodsy grandeur.

SHAWANGUNK WINE TRAIL (845) 256-8456 / shawangunkwinetrail.com DUTCHESS WINE TRAIL dutchesswinetrail.com CLINTON VINEYARDS 450 Schultzville Road, Clinton Corners / (845) 266-5372 / clintonvineyards.com MILLBROOK WINERY 26 Wing Road, Millbrook / (800) 662-WINE / millbrookwine.com

Culinary Institute of America

Boot camp at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park turns a foodie into a novice chef. Camps, ranging from one to five days, focus on basic training, skills development, grilling and barbecue, baking, hors d’ oeuvres, Italian cuisine, Asian cuisine, healthy cooking, desserts, bistro dishes, and holiday cooking. Follow a day of boot camp with dinner at one of the CIA’s six on-campus restaurants: American Bounty (farm-to-table), Apple Pie Bakery Café, Pangea (conscious eating), the Bocuse Restaurant (contemporary versions of classic French cuisine), Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici (authentic regional Italian cuisine), and Al Forno Trattoria (wood-fired pizza). Be sure to book well ahead for both boot camp and dinner!

Animals roam free at Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa.

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THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA 1946 Campus Drive, Hyde Park / (845) 471-6608 / ciarestaurantgroup.com

T O R W E T IN N Upstater’s EKINGSTON STOCKADE Weekend Getaway U

pstater teamed up with local businesses for this exclusive opportunity. Win a 3-night stay at a luxury vacation rental, The Saint James, nestled in the heart of Uptown Kingston. Explore the Catskills and surrounding hamlets. Walk to dinner at Boitson’s, have cocktails at Stockade Tavern, and stock the home with select bottles from Ester Wine & Spirits. Visit upstater.com/getaway and enter for a chance to win!

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photo by Cara Meling

Bannerman Island

Riders on Metro-North’s Hudson Line can catch a glimpse of Bannerman Castle from a train window, but to fully appreciate that hauntingly beautiful ruin, it’s best to get up close and personal by taking a guided tour of Bannerman Island, or Pollepel as 18th-century Dutch settlers called it.

Manhattan businessman and Scottish immigrant Francis Bannerman bought the island in 1900 to house both his family and his massive arms collection, and continued work on the structure until his death in 1918. But the castle was never completed, and continues to fall apart. The island can be accessed by passenger boat (Bannerman Island Trust) or kayak (Storm King Adventure Tours), with self-guided and group tours available.

CRUISES AND WALKING TOURS Bannermancastle.org KAYAK TOURS Stormkingadventuretours.org

Bannerman Island kayak tour by Storm King Adventures.

Full Moon Resort

FULL MOON RESORT 12 Valley View Road, Big Indian / (845) 254-5117 / fullmoonresort.com

FIND YOUR DESTINATION. NEW CONTENT EVERY WEEK AT

upstater.com/destinations

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Music Master’s Camp at Full Moon Resort.

Michael Bloom Phoyo

Fulfill that rock ’n’ roll fantasy at Full Moon Resort in the Catskills. Every summer, Full Moon hosts Music Master Camps, allowing participants to spend a weekend building their musical chops with luminaries like Tony Levin, Richard Thompson, and Steve Earle. Each master camp begins with an intimate dinner and concert with the star teacher, followed by a bonfire. Spend the time between workshops in the pool, wandering the grounds, or enjoying the turn-of-the-century Valley View B&B’s wraparound porch and rich display of local artworks.

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“What I’m doing, it’s what I was taught to do, it’s what I believe an artist should do.”

Many celebrities live in the Hudson Valley, but few

of them are as open about it or as dedicated to protecting it as actor Mark Ruffalo. When he learned, through material disseminated by the energy industry, that hydraulic fracturing was coming to his hometown of Callicoon Center in Sullivan County, sited above the gas-rich Marcellus Shale, he initially considered it a good idea. But after learning more about fracking, he not only did an about-face, but also became a vigilant and outspoken community activist. Ruffalo met with politicians in Albany and Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, visited communities that had been damaged by fracking, hosted screen parties for the Josh Fox documentary Gasland, and talked constantly to reporters, becoming the voice for Catskill Mountainkeeper, one of the main antifracking groups in New York State, and helped create “Dear Governor Cuomo,” a concert and protest held in Albany inviting the governor to join the antifracking majority in his home state that became a documentary by fellow Hudson Valley resident Jon Bowermaster. For all of these actions, Ruffalo was slammed, repeatedly, by conservative media and, even worse, followed by the Department of Homeland Security. But having taken very public political stands before— against the Iraq War and California’s Proposition 8 to eliminate the right of same-sex couples to marry—Ruffalo kept up the fight. Meanwhile, he continued to draw praise for his growing body of film work, including, most recently, The Kids Are All Right and Foxcatcher, both of which won him Oscar nominations, and the upcoming The Avengers. For his hard work, Ruffalo was honored at the 2011 Woodstock Film Festival’s Gala Maverick Awards Ceremony with its first Giving Back Award—and with victory when Governor Cuomo dramatically banned fracking in New York State last December. “What I’m doing, it’s what I was taught to do, it’s what I believe an artist should do,” Ruffalo says.

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YOUR

adventure begins HERE

THE PANDORICA A Doctor Who themed restaurant in the heart of Beacon with an eclectic menu of intergalactic comfort foods.

165 Main Street, Beacon, NY

thepandoricarestaurant.com 845 831 6287 closed tuesdays

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SIMI STONE

Her childhood in Woodstock was “magical,” but Simi Stone

(born Simantha Mollylou Sernaker) wasn’t always so attached to her hometown. Born to a hippie Jewish mother and a Jamaican-born father she didn’t meet until she was eight, Stone grew up following Swami Sachidananda, meditating, praying, and being “raised in this amazingly spiritual way,” she recalls. Musically inclined from an early age—whether from the chanting and singing she did with her family, listening to her mother’s Rolling Stones records, or the fact that her paternal grandmother was a blues piano player—Stone took up the classical violin and started writing songs at age seven. At eight, she locked herself in her room for three days and produced a cassette tape of her songs titled “Cloudy Day on Mountain Lodge.” At 10, she was accepted into the New York Conservatory for the Arts in nearby Hurley, where she studied musical theater, dance, guitar, and voice. After graduating from high school, Stone left Woodstock for Marymount College, performing off-Broadway, appearing in Metallica and Cornershop videos, and forming the gritty rock ’n’ roll band Suffrajett, earning accolades on cross-country tours. Critics called her “Kurt Cobain

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Photo by Thomas Smith

LOCALMUSICIAN

“I feel the holy vibrations are here, and that’s all I really need to do what I do.” in hot pants” and “the ghost of T-Rex’s Marc Bolan.” But in Chicago and Detroit, she became a self-proclaimed “wild woman,” until finally the Midwestern rock ’n roll lifestyle weighed on her. “It does seem like I needed to spiral out of control to be able to get back to the true me,” she says. Stone broke up Suffrajett and headed home in 2009. Connecting with Simone Felice and Bobby Burke she accompanied their band, The Duke and the King, on tour in Europe. Following the 2014 release of her crowdfunded, eponymously titled, highly-acclaimed first album, she formed a “mountain Motown”-style band with the likes of Zachary Alford, Sara Lee, and Gail Ann Dorsey, and continues to perform with the Felice Bros., Natalie Merchant, Conor Oberst, Tracy Bonham, and Amy Helm.

Thriving in Woodstock, she says, “I feel the holy vibrations are here, and that’s all I really need to do what I do.”

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FOOD + DRINK

S T O RY A N D P H O T O S B Y B R A D L E Y H AW K S

Profiteroles stuffed with pork rillettes, mustard caviar, Jersey Girl cheese, and a tangy mustard sherry vinaigrette from The Hop.

From Crop to Kitchen SEVEN MUST-TRY FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANTS IN THE HUDSON VALLEY

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At the very heart of the farm-to-table movement lies a profoundly simple and beautiful notion: that we should care as much about where we actually source our sources of nourishment as we do about how the food on our plates is prepared. This means much more than being able to cite the particular farm that originated any particular bushel of corn. Instead, it means being aware of the conditions under which our food is raised, grown, and harvested. In an ideal situation, farm-to-table means a symbiosis between the farmer and the chef, with the menu not only being driven by the crops, but also with crops being planned with a specific kitchen and audience in mind. A brief journey through the Hudson Valley as summer unfolded revealed a few venues that seem to embody precisely this keen food awareness.

LOCALCHEF Photo by Roy Gumpel

Sampling some of the nearly 200 beers served at The Hop.

“We thought we were opening a beer store but it ended being a restaurant.”

1

The Hop “We thought we were opening a beer store,” chuckles John Kelly, “but it ended up being a restaurant.” Kelly, owner of The Hop in downtown Beacon, was ready when the time came to transfer his craft beer store down the street to its new, larger location. Situated by the railroad tracks that run alongside a rushing waterfall on Main Street, the store is part beer shop and part eatery. One bite of a Pork Puff could make you forget the selection of nearly 200 beers shelved behind you in wooden cases. These profiteroles are tiny pastry clouds stuffed with pork rillettes, mustard caviar, Jersey Girl cheese, and a tangy mustard sherry vinaigrette. A platter of house-made pickles washes down deliciously with a pint as well. Or go simple with locally raised filet mignon accompanied by fingerlings sautéed in duck fat with rosemary, leeks, and herbed bone marrow.

THE HOP 554 Main Street, Beacon / (845) 440-8676 / thehopbeacon.com

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Fish & Game Fish & Game is not just a James Beard-nominated destination for the savvy diner. This 19th-century former blacksmith-shop-turnedrestaurant in the heart of Hudson feels like a rustic hunting lodge. There are jars of vegetables pickling on shelves spread between mounted busts of stag and ram, bouquets of herbs dangling from the ceiling, lush red velvet wallpaper, crates of root vegetables, and a stone hearth set before an open kitchen. Chef Zakary Pellaccio’s hands, which successfully labored at Fatty ’Cue and Fatty Crab in Manhattan, are now growing their own crops and arranging them in a weekly rotating set menu based on the freshest ingredients in the valley. Fish & Game serves a set Classic American menu for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday dinner, and offers à la carte for Thursday dinner and Saturday and Sunday lunch. Featured on the set menu is kid goat, smoked to tender perfection before being rolled with kimchi into ramp leaves for spicy summer cannelloni. Marsh marigold buds even morph into Hudson Valley capers. The river and sky are the limit in this gallery of comestible artistry.

ZAK PELACCIO

Creator of the Malaysianinspired Fatty Crab in Manhattan and Fatty ’Cue in Brooklyn , chef Zak Pelaccio moved to Old

Chatham with his wife and business partner Jori Jayne Emde to found Fish & Game in Hudson—decidedly one of the region’s most successful farm-to-table restaurants, right from the day it opened in 2013. Almost all of the food is produced locally, much of it from within a 40-mile radius of Hudson, and a use-everything-from-nose-to-tail ethos extends to all of the ingredients, from the whole animals to the vegetable trimmings, like carrot tops, that are macerated in alcohol and distilled in a rotary evaporator to create essences for dishes and drinks. Diners get a seven-course tasting menu— regular or vegetarian—for $68, and the roster of ingredients, dishes, and farms and artisans producing what goes into the dishes changes almost daily. The brick building, a former blacksmith’s shop, features gas lamps flanking the entrance and a front patio with two-tops. The interior straddles Hudson’s trademark blend of rustic comfort and high-end refinement, with two fireplaces that provide heat for cooking as well as ambiance, burgundy velvet burnout wallpaper that looks like it’s straight out of a Victorian bordello, enveloping couches at the bar, and handmade tables and dinnerware.

The point of Fish & Game is to embrace the flow and ride it with great care and skill toward a distinct culinary identity for the Hudson Valley. Ultimately, says Pelaccio, he’s after “those meals that only happen once, but that you remember for the rest of your life”—magical confluences of time, place, ingredients, and company. “It’s not like music, because it can’t be recorded,” he says. “It’s a shared experience, and then it’s a memory.”

“...meals that only happen once, but that you remember for the rest of your life.”

FISH & GAME 13 South 3rrd St.reet, Hudson / (518) 822-1500 / fishandgamehudson.com SUMMER 2015

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Blue Hill

Visiting the Blue Hill restaurant.

Perhaps the most well-known farm-to-table restaurant in New York State (maybe even in America), this location of Dan Barber’s Blue Hill, set in the rolling countryside of Pocantico Hills outside Tarrytown at the Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture, is perhaps the best-known farm-totable in the world, having recently ranked as no. 49 in the 2015 World’s 50 Best Restaurants. The restaurant sits at the heart of what many consider the epicenter of the locavore movement, so do not simply stop at a mere reservation in this flawless restaurant. Embrace the classroom of the field with tours, classes, even a farm camp that provides engaging ways to learn about the joys and rigors of the field and pasture in one of the most lush, engaging, and breathtaking settings around. Then feast on buttery filets of tenderloin coiled with fiddlehead ferns, lick lollipops of sesamekissed asparagus, and finish with a shot of fresh, creamy milk harvested earlier in the day and flavored with chocolate.

BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills / (914) 366-9600 / bluehillfarm.com/dine/stone-barns

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Prohibition River “We think of ourselves as less farm-to-table than what is simply fresh and available,” explains Oliver Cullen, owner of Prohibition River in downtown Nyack. Regardless of how you label it, there are some inventive ingredients and techniques employed in this two-story gastropub with a sweeping federal staircase to the upstairs sun-drenched dining room and bar. Bacon meatballs arrive in a pool of sweet tomato chutney with fresh Parmesan shavings. Bites of cauliflower receive the Buffalo treatment with bleu cheese crumbles and fresh herbs. A 24hour braised pork belly is even finished with a 60-minute egg prepared sous vide. Slow and steady wins the race at this popular public house.

PROHIBITION RIVER 82 Main St.reet, Nyack / (845) 727-7900 / prohibitionriver.com

Some of Stone Barns’ residents.

Blue Hill Bacon meatballs over sweet tomato chutney with fresh Parmesan shavings from Prohibition River.

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Meatloaf over fresh fava beans and curried chickpea purée from The Huguenot.

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The Huguenot “I like to play with ingredients depending on the weather,” confesses Nathan Snow, chef and co-owner of The Huguenot in New Paltz. The midnight blue dining room adorned with vintage farm tools is a handsome nod to the ideals of the restaurant. “Our proteins are 100 percent from Karl Family Farms, which is just six miles down the road,” explains Snow. A deep-fried, soft-boiled duck egg sits on a bridge of crisp asparagus over a moat of chorizo country gravy. An exquisite meatloaf, made from lamb, is served over fresh fava beans and a puree of curried chickpeas with lamb sausage. “We are so fortunate to get to plan the crops,” says Snow, “developing recipes before their ingredients are even harvested.”

THE HUGUENOT 36 Main Street, New Paltz / (845) 255-5558 / thehuguenot.com

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Another Fork in the Road At a passing glance, this restaurant appears to be a maroon schoolhouse from the 1940s tucked into a bend on Route 199. But blink and you might miss Another Fork in the Road, one of the most modestly wonderful dining rooms around. The counter and bookshelves are adorned with locally made jams and statues of gnomes.

Despite the naïve country façade, however, there is some serious cooking going on. “This didn’t exist before it was ordered,” explains chef Jamie Parry as he serves a bowl of soft, warm, black pepper-dusted mozzarella stretched moments ago, now glistening in olive oil. “Our menu is veggie-forward,” explains the Montrachet-trained chef, “and we use local produce.” That includes a playfully tart rhubarb on a warm country biscuit, blanketed with sweet lemon curd and fresh whipped cream.

ANOTHER FORK IN THE ROAD 1215 Route 199, Red Hook / (845) 758-6676 / facebook.com/anotherforkintheroad

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Pecan tassies and confectioner’s sugar-dusted madeleines of The Village Tea Room.

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The Village Tea Room Agnes Devereux smiles and steps out of the kitchen, motioning for a guest to follow her outside The Village Tea Room in downtown New Paltz. “Most people don’t even notice this,” she sighs, gesturing toward the sign over the side doorway indicating the building was once the town’s tailor shop. It’s rather impressive that a building constructed over two centuries ago now survives on Devereux’s passion for history and tradition as well as her devotion to local farmers. Back inside, she delivers a plate of pecan tassies and confectioner’s sugar-dusted madeleines, along with what appears to be a fluffy piece of quiche. “Now try this,” she says, and then swiftly leaves the room. After just one cautious bite, the butterycrusted Potato Toussaint Cheese Tart is rapidly devoured.

A slice of Honey Bee Cake follows, layered with apricot preserves, honey butter cream, and chocolate truffle bees with almond wings. It’s obvious what all the buzz is about.

THE VILLAGE TEAROOM 10 Plattekill Avenue, New Paltz / (845) 255-3434 / thevillagetearoom.com

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Honey Bee Cake at The Village Tea Room.

LOCALENTREPRENUER Photo by Karen Pearson

JASON SCHULER

If you visit Drink More Good in Beacon,

don’t expect the conversation to end at retail pleasantries. Jason Schuler, 33, Drink More Good’s founder and president, is eager to talk shop. For instance, he’ll tell you how his tonic is made from gentian root, which is less likely to cause quinine poisoning than cinchona bark. Having spent seven years working for Mario Del Pero of Mendocino Farms in Los Angeles, Schuler is well aware that “everything that’s in soda is freaking poison.” He’s more than just a business owner—he’s the mad-scientist epicure behind its flagship product, Drink More Good handcrafted soda syrup.

It all started when Schuler, who grew up in the Hudson Valley’s Hopewell Junction, began running Gleason’s cocktail program in Peekskill in 2012, flavoring his signature elixirs using the highest-quality ingredients. To taste the drinks without getting a buzz on at work, he mixed his cocktail syrups with seltzer. Soon he was working in Gleason’s kitchen after hours, crushing all-natural ingredients to make and bottle his syrup. His best friend offered to invest $2,000, and Drink More Good was born in December 2012. In six months, Schuler was selling ginger ale, root beer, and cassia kream syrups at farmers’ markets and a 200-square-foot storefront in Beacon. In 2014,

More than just a business owner—he’s a mad scientist he moved his business to 383 Main Street, a 2,000-square-foot storefront with an industrial kitchen that he built himself. It’s an open space featuring a soda-stream-equipped bar and tables set against wide windows. There, along with his syrups, Schuler offers hot tea and sells 15 loose-tea blends, 72 fair-trade herbs and spices, 50 types of bitters. Drink More Good now has 60 wholesale accounts between Albany and New York City and 31 Whole Foods throughout the Northeast.

Schuler gives back to the community too, by renting out his kitchen to local food producers at affordable rates ($18.75 an hour), to help newbies circumvent the obstacles he faced as a startup. And he lives up to his “triple bottom line: people, planet, and profit” by contributing to Generosity.org, a nonprofit working to end the water crisis in developing countries. What’s next? “I want to be a global brand,” Schuler says.

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WEEKENDER

S T O RY B Y K A N DY H A R R I S / P H O T O S B Y T H O M A S S M I T H

THE ’GUNKS A

WEEKEND in

T

he rocky backbone of the Shawangunk Ridge, otherwise known as the ’Gunks, extends through parts of the Hudson Valley into the Catskills and offers countless paths to rock climb or hike toward some incredible valley views. And the Village of New Paltz in Ulster County, located about 10 minutes by car from Mohonk Preserve, makes a convenient base of operations from which to explore the ’Gunks.

FRIDAY EVENING

There are B&Bs, and then there’s Moondance Ridge Bed & Breakfast (55 Shivertown Road). Situated on a country road just outside the village of New Paltz, this 1900s Craftsman-style-home-turned-B&B offers rooms decorated in the theme of Hollywood’s Golden Era, threecourse breakfasts, and a full-service spa, garden labyrinth, and wildlife habitat. There’s even an art gallery. The Moonshadow and Starry Night rooms feature their own balconies ($259/night mid-week; $279/weekend).

FRIDAY NIGHT

Refresh with a whirlpool dip or sauna visit at Moondance Ridge, and then get ready for your reservation at A Tavola Trattoria for a little carbloading. Located up Main Street from Moondance, A Tavola offers seasonally minded, locally-sourced rustic Italian fare in a laid-back environment.

Tom Broderick and Jennifer Graham at the top of Bonticou Crag at Mohonk Preserve in Gardiner.

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Rock scrambling at Mohonk Preserve.

Melissa, Michael, and Emily visiting New Paltz for the day.

Claire Gallagher and Chris Williams of Rock and Snow.

Water Street Market in New Paltz.

Nobody visits the ’Gunks without doing some hiking.

SATURDAY MORNING

Moondance stays include breakfast, but proprietress Kathy Drew also provides to-go for the road.

Grab a cup of ambition at Mudd Puddle Coffee Roasters at Water Street Market (10 Main Street). Though the café’s name is playful, owners James Walsh and Michelle Tablas Walsh take coffee roasting seriously. With cup in hand, wander around the open-air shopping square, which offers a host of antiques and boutiques, not to mention a sculpture garden, cafés, and a pub. Need a loaner bike to get around the shops?

Borrow one at Water Street…for free.

Nobody visits the ’Gunks without doing some hiking. Rock and Snow (44 Main Street) has all the backpacks, shoes, rock climbing and camping equipment, and clothing needed, as well as rentals (a.k.a. gear that doesn’t need to be dragged back home).

SATURDAY AFTERNOON

To stock up on food for the hike, head down the hill to Karma Road Organic Café (11 Main Street), which offers “organic food from the soul,” including sandwiches for grab-and-go, smoothies and shakes, and fresh vegan and vegetarian dishes prepared in-house.

For hiking, it doesn’t get much more glorious in the ’Gunks than Mohonk Preserve. Start at the Visitor’s Center (3197 Route 44/55, Gardiner), where there’s ample parking, trail maps, and access to all four trails in the Preserve. The West Trapps Trail runs through Mohonk Preserve, and also passes through a portion of another popular park, the Minnewaska State Park Preserve. Prepare for views. Turn off that cell phone and take time to stare at them. $12/hiker.

SATURDAY EVENING

Travel into the Catskills for dinner at Aroma Thyme Bistro in Ellenville (165 Canal Street), the Hudson Valley’s first green-certified restaurant. It’s a 40-minute drive from Moondance Ridge, but with menu items like Alaskan Coho salmon, roasted garlic pesto chicken, plus grass-fed beef burgers and tons of vegetarian options, it’s worth the trip.

After crushing it at Mohonk, celebrate with a nightcap back in New Paltz at Jar’d Wine Pub (Water Street Market, 10 Main Street) and select a glass—or a bottle, who are we to judge?—of wine from the extensive menu. Or order a Yard Owl beer, brewed in New Paltz.

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New Paltz visitors Hannah and Charlie.

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Bicycle Depot offers rentals, repairs, and a wide selection of bicycles.

SUNDAY MORNING

The Wallkill Valley Rail Trail is perfect for biking, and it starts right in the village. After fueling up with a three-course breakfast from Moondance, leg it over to one of New Paltz’s two bicycle shops. Already got a bike?

Get it tuned up at the Bicycle Rack (13 North Front Street). Or reserve a bike ahead of time at Bike Depot (15 Main Street). $35/day, $25/half-day (after 2pm).

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

Ride the Rail Trail from North Front Street north to Rosendale. It’s a 14-mile round trip—a mostly flat trail with just a little hilly terrain thrown in to keep things interesting. Don’t pack lunch; the Rail Trail Café is a food truck that can only be accessed from the trail.

Enjoy green drinks, salads, or pizzas for fuel, and then continue north. The whole trip takes around 2 hours to complete, but it will feel like an epic adventure.

Take some of the Hudson Valley home from the New Paltz Farmer’s Market, located in front of the community center (Veteran Drive), open from 10am to 3pm. Vendors come from throughout the area and include small farms, bakeries, vineyards, and maple syrup producers. Or head over to the High Falls Flea Market to hunt for antiques, collectibles, crafts, art, or retro treasures. Operated by the D&H Canal Historical Society, it runs from 9am to 4pm.

Lloyd Seeler from Kingston takes a ride on the Rail Trail.

SUNDAY EVENING

Before heading back to the city, have an early dinner at Gomen Kudasai (232 Main Street), where you’ll be served healthy Japanese dishes with organic, fresh ingredients. Back home in the city, retire early from that whirlwind tour of the ’Gunks, and dream about a return visit. Anybody who’s ever visited the ’Gunks always comes back.

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Sean Harrington and Jon Wittmann at Water Street Market.

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co-founders and spouses Jenny Brown and Doug Abel met in Boston while they were both working on Errol Morris’s Oscar-nominated documentary, The Fog of War. But Brown decided to give up her career as a TV and film producer, director, and post production supervisor after making videos undercover at a Texas stockyard, where she saw things that “scarred” her. “I was going home to my hotel room and bawling my eyes out every night,” Brown recalls. “I had a realization that I was really put on this earth to do something for as many of these individuals as I could.” So she moved to Watkins Glen to work at Farm Sanctuary to learn about sheltering and caring for animals. In 2004, Brown and Abel settled in Woodstock and opened the nonprofit Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary. Brown and Abel quickly amassed about 140 abused and neglected animals on a 23-acre parcel—cows, pigs, sheep, goats, ducks, geese, rabbits, chickens, and turkeys—and came up with innovative ways to attract the funds to support them, starting with their fundraising wedding held on the farm in fall 2004. Since then, the sanctuary has hosted summer camps, educational seminars, summer jamborees featuring the likes of Sean Ono Lennon, an annual vegan Thanksgiving celebration called “Thanksliving,” and a St. Francis-style blessing-of-the-animals ceremony.

Meanwhile, Abel has continued his film career, with recent credits including Louis CK’s show Louie and 30 Rock, and Brown’s critically acclaimed memoir, The Lucky Ones: My Passionate Fight for Farm Animals, won the 2012 VegNews’ Book of the Year Award. Now, with hundreds of animals rescued, the sanctuary is literally moving on to greater pastures at the former 150-acre Camp Epworth in High Falls, where Brown and Abel are creating a bigger farm with an education center, vegan cafeteria, and lodging. A grand opening is set for Labor Day weekend.

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FOOD + DRINK

S T O RY A N D P H O T O S B Y B R A D L E Y H AW K S

UNPROHIBITED Revived Prohibition-style summer cocktails + where to get them

Grapefruit-kissed citrus Martini from Wildfire Grill.

While Prohibition may have been repealed almost a century ago, there are few things quite as intoxicating as sipping once-forbidden elixirs in dimly lit pubs and taverns.

While speakeasies may have gone by the wayside, some of the favorite recipes and techniques have been cask-conditioned over the years, and are enjoying a rebirth. Though the village barkeep may no longer have to rely on syrups and juices to mask the bite of rough hooch, here are some local lounges and restaurants that are revisiting some of those turn-of-the-century tricks and techniques to delectable effect. And while not all of these watering holes are hidden in actual speakeasy-style saloons, they are turning out some enticing Prohibition-style beverages worthy of note.

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HOW TO / Make the Perfect Cocktail

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JUICE FRESH CITRUS

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Infused syrups and bitters at the disposal of Stockade bartenders.

Stockade bartenders mix rows and rows of infused syrups and bitters into whimsical specialty cocktails.

Stockade Tavern Tucked within the former Singer Sewing Machine building across the street from the historic Senate House in New York State’s first capital city, Stockade Tavern is barely identifiable from the street, save for a scarlet “S” painted over the doorway. Within, a young professional crowd gathers three deep at the bar, while the staff mixes rows and rows of infused syrups and bitters into whimsical specialty cocktails. Clusters of Federal-style wooden booths are clustered around the entryway, but the long, dark bar is the main stage in this cocktail juggernaut. Bourbon and crème de peche are shaken and topped with Fernet Menta in the Lucky Peach. A house-made raspberry shrub is blended with cognac and soda over ice in the Roffignac. Better yet, aim for a whole different kind of buzz with the Pharmaceutical Stimulant, a mix of Tito’s, coffee liqueur, and Outdated Café Extract.

STOCKADE TAVERN 313 Fair Street, Kingston / (845) 514-2649 / stockadetavern.com

Rock & Rye Tavern Lanterns illuminate the wooded pathway to Rock & Rye Tavern, a recently revitalized establishment that was built in the 1750s by one of New Paltz’s founding families on historic Huguenot Street—incidentally, the oldest street in North America. Today, the tavern’s atmosphere changes along with the seasons. There’s a wood-burning stove for warmth in the winter and a summertime screened-in porch with tissue flowers hung overhead to form a quirky pastel canopy, beneath which guests can lounge the day away sipping on a Smokey Grove, a gin-based blend of house-smoked blood orange with grapefruit and chamomile. Throwback nods include a gin fizz recipe from the late 1800s that mixes lime, cream, and local egg whites with orange flower water and club soda. The drink menu pays tribute to the rich heritage of its cocktails, with nods to the bartenders and mixologists who created them almost 100 years ago during the height of Prohibition.

Courtesy Josh Rosenmeier

Head Bartender, Stockade Tavern

ROCK & RYE TAVERN 215 Huguenot Street, New Paltz / (845) 255-7888 / rockandrye.com SUMMER 2015

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Chef’s meze of the day from 8 North Broadway.

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey on the rocks from 8 North Broadway.

Benedict Arnold’s Revenge from Birdsall House.

Wildfire Grill

Birdsall House

“Grab a seat out back while I mix you one of my favorites,” smiles Krista Wild, the owner of Wildfire Grill. The hands-on purveyor is also the bartender at this blend of a backyard barbecue, street party, and festival all rolled into one. The drinks are simple and classic, and made with a mother’s love, like a refreshing grapefruit-kissed citrus martini with just enough sour to pucker a smile. With Christmas lights on the front porch columns and tribal masks and African décor within, this bar is an eclectic, beloved neighborhood stop. For an optimal experience, step through to the expansive backyard, or book a reservation for a seasonal wine dinner. Old-timey margaritas and Collinses come adorned with umbrellas and cherries at this neighborhood hotspot.

Birdsall House feels like a beer lover’s sanctuary, scattered with vintage photos and a wooden kayak that hangs above an expansive bar and rows of antique cold closets. Condiment bottles replace ketchup and mustard with raspberry puree and ginger simple syrup, from which the bartender mixes a drink called Benedict Arnold’s Revenge, fresh with muddled mint and Redemption Rye. Beyond the bar sits a row of booths, all of which point toward the outdoor space where you can take your Duke (made with Earl Grey tea and gin) and enjoy a round of bocce ball on the makeshift gravel court.

BIRDSALL HOUSE 970 Main Street, Peekskill / (914) 930-1880 / birdsallhouse.net

WILDFIRE GRILL 74 Clinton Street, Montgomery / (845) 457-3770 / wildfireny.com

Crave Restaurant

8 North Broadway

Located beneath the 1.28-mile Walkway Over the Hudson pedestrian bridge sits a former college dive bar turned sophisticated dining room on Washington Street in Poughkeepsie. Crave Restaurant opened its doors in 2009 to coincide with the opening of the walkway, and now serves as the ideal spot to stop and relax after a walk across the Hudson River. The mission at this upscale establishment is taking something old-fashioned and preparing it with a modern twist. While this certainly applies to the menu, patrons can enjoy it in the artisanal cocktails as well. Although a Hudson Manhattan may take off the edge, the real secret here is the generous wine selection, with over 130 bottles currently listed from around the globe.

A luxurious copper bar runs along the back half of 8 North Broadway, housing an elaborate selection of whiskey and a carefully selected wine list. Using its address as its moniker, 8 North Broadway’s cocktails are shaken with Bootlegger gin, whiskey, and bourbon, distilled just down the road. While the local spirits and wines may draw you in, stay for a moment and order the chef ’s meze of the day. Ask the bartender to uncork a bottle of one of the restaurant’s small production, like the pinot noir from Jaffurs Wine Cellar’s—available exclusively here in New York. There’s nothing better than sipping and noshing the night away at this exquisite find, just off Nyack’s beaten path.

CRAVE RESTAURANT 129 Washington Street, Poughkeepsie / (845) 452-3501 / craverestaurantandlounge.com

8 NORTH BROADWAY 8 N. Broadway, Nyack / (845) 353-1200 / 8northbroadway.com

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Tuthill House Step back in time as you enter Tuthill House, nestled over a weathered gristmill that was built on the Shawangunk Kill just a decade after our nation declared its independence from Britain. Water still flows through the antique wooden wheel, while guests on the porch enjoy the flow of old-time cocktails. A tattooed bartender administers mixology like a religion, delicately placing floral garnishes atop a Lavender Gin Gimlet before presenting the drink.

The distillery across the gravel road was the first to open in New York State following Prohibition, launching the nation’s microdistillery boom. Savor a sip of history at the birthplace of the Half Moon Orchid Gin, as well as Basement Bitters, Tuthilltown Cassis and Cacao Liqueurs, Indigenous Apple Vodka, and the Hudson line of bourbon and whiskey.

TUTHILL HOUSE AT THE MILL 20 Gristmill Lane, Gardiner / (845) 255-4151 / tuthillhouse.com

HAVE A DRINK WITH US. NEW CONTENT EVERY WEEK AT

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Lavender Gin Gimlet from Tuthill House.

LOCALDISTILLER

CHRISTOPHER WILLIAMS

Coppersea is reviving traditions of distilling that go back to the 19th century.

find your canvas.

Driving along Route 9W

as it passes through the town of Esopus, it’s easy to imagine life in the 1800s on this bucolic stretch of road, with its magnificent views of the Hudson River, with antique monasteries and old orchards on the west side and grand estates on the east side. Coppersea Distillery in West Park is a newcomer to the area, but fits right in. Coppersea is reviving traditions of distilling that go back to the 19th century. Housed in a former print shop for the Holy Cross monastery, MacDonald and Williams are refining an ancient art once practiced only by alchemists: converting ordinary grain into liquid gold. And as Williams explains, the name Coppersea refers to the era when the region was dotted with small farms, each growing some fruit and grain for distillation in small copper stills housed in their barns, making the area a veritable “sea of copper.” And Coppersea is hardly alone in this. In 2000, there were about 25 craft distilleries in the United States; in 2014, according to Entrepreneur magazine, there were 623. Coppersea’s flagship product is its Raw Rye Whiskey, which starts with a green malt process that distillery manager Christopher Williams says hasn’t been practiced in 300 years.

The grain is set out in a layer on the floor, watered down, and allowed to sprout, releasing enzymes that convert the grain’s complex starches into simpler sugars that are consumed by yeast. “When you kiln it to different degrees to arrest this process, you get different flavors,” says Williams.

In keeping with its farm distillery designation, all of Coppersea’s grain is grown in New York State, most of it locally in Ulster, Dutchess, Delaware, and Albany counties. “The cognoscenti in the liquor industry are losing interest in white whiskey, and when we showed up at Astor Wine and Liquors [the venerable Manhattan wine and spirits merchant], they were a bit skeptical,” Williams notes. “But they tried it and said, ‘We’ll take it.’ Getting shelf space at Astor is not easy, and we’ve re-upped them three times now.” Coppersea has a strong commitment to and love for the Hudson Valley, collaborating with other local artisans as much as possible. Coppersea teamed up with Kingston’s Stockade Tavern to create a cocktail using only locally sourced ingredients for its Manhattan Cocktail Classic, using Oliverea Schoolhouse Farm Maple Syrup, Fruition chocolate, and Boice Bros. cream; and with Field Apothecary to make a cocktail for Olana Historic Site’s annual Olanafest.

Fresh content every day.

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OFF THE GRID

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S T O RY B Y A N N L . H U T T O N / P H O T O S B Y M AT T P E T R I C O N E

Rustic and Righteous AN EXPERIMENTAL FAMILY FARM

Snuggled into the folds of hills outside Walton, New York, is Stony Creek Farmstead, a working farm and farm-stay operation owned by Dan and Kate Marsiglio, along with the couple’s seriously environmentally-friendly house. The Marsiglios’ two-story home is a rustic work-in-progress that has caused a stir among sustainable-practices groupies for its combination of experimentalism and idealism.

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Dan Marsiglio utilizes both active and passive solar energy systems.

A passive solar hen house.

Dinner preparation in the light-filled kitchen.

Their mission is to implement a philosophy and create a functioning example for sustainable living.

The Marsiglios seem to be in constant forward motion, managing the household and farm together, dealing with ongoing construction details, taking care of their two children, and checking in with Dan’s parents, who also live on the property. They may only be in their 30s, but they’re not naïve about the work their endeavor requires.

Introduced to Buckminster Fuller’s ideas while at Syracuse University, Dan is firmly rooted in design concepts that measure structural integrity on all fronts—material, environmental, and communal.

“Green design focuses on the inputs and outputs, not only on local impacts, but on a global scale; everything factors in,” he says.

Built in a bolted, post-and-beam style with rough-cut hemlock that was procured 85 miles away and milled by a three-man crew in a tiny sawmill, the Marsiglios’ house fits Fuller’s definition of integrity: strong, whole, complete. It’s also a paragon of energy efficiency.

Passive-solar, built into a south-facing slope, takes advantage of shade from tree cover in the heat of summer and the warmth of the sun in cold weather. An active solar panel on a hillside to the north hooks up to the grid for trickle charging in inclement weather. An entryway doubles as a greenhouse and is recessed four feet below ground level to retain captured heat. From the greenhouse, a staircase leads to

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Everyone in the Marsiglio family helps out on the farm.

the bright kitchen and living room, which are flooded with sunshine streaming in from above. The many skylights are constructed of thick corrugated, polycarbonate, an almost indestructible material used in commercial greenhouses. A central wood stove augments interior temperatures during the winter, and warm air flows freely to the second-floor sleeping quarters.

The Marsiglios have occupied the house for seven years through various stages of its evolution. Their vision extends far beyond the walls of their home. Their mission is to implement a philosophy and create a functioning example for sustainable living. They produce most of their own food and enough extra to sell locally through a CSA. To supplement their income and educate the next generation of farmers, they offer “art farm” camp to kids from five to 14 years old. The Marsiglios want to figure out how other people can work to build a house, grow food, and bring in the community. “This need not be some anomaly,” Dan says. He’s glad that many people have become interested in growing organic food and backyard farming, but believes change has to go further than keeping a handful of chickens.

“Hobby farming is not a model that can be replicated for full financial solvency,” he says.

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SUMMER 2015

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A passive solar greenhouse entry leads into the home of Dan and Kate Marsiglio and their family.

“We’re a full farm. We keep sheep, cows, pigs, chickens, Guinea fowl, turkeys, and bees,” Kate says. “Our goal is to show people what a model sustainable farm looks like.” A solar shed beyond the house’s deck shelters over 100 laying hens. Livestock is raised according to the method of famous farmer Joel Salatin, the subject of the documentary Food, Inc., which involves rotating animals on pastures of healthy grass. Flocks of fowl are moved in behind the cows and sheep to peck through the dung and eat fly larvae while fertilizing the field with their droppings. Clearly, living the dream takes a lot of hard work.

“We try to keep the other pieces small enough so they’re manageable, but large enough so they work in concert together,” Kate says. “We could be a more successful business and make more money if we didn’t take time to spend with our parents and our kids.”

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u

WEEKENDER

S T O RY B Y B R I A N PJ C R O N I N / P H O T O S B Y T H O M A S S M I T H

A

WEEKEND in

BEACON Chris Szabo rides hands free.

F

or many New Yorkers, Beacon is best known as some mysterious place up the Hudson River where their friends who started a family moved. But Beacon is also the perfect destination for a weekend getaway. This tiny city of just over 14,000 residents features worldfamous art, fine food, and easy access to the great outdoors. And if you find yourself lingering at the windows of the local real estate offices and looking at the cost of renting an apartment on Main Street or buying a charming two-bedroom house with a wraparound porch, well, maybe those friends who recently moved away are onto something.

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FRIDAY EVENING

One of the many advantages to visiting Beacon is that Metro-North’s Hudson Line makes a stop right on the river. In fact, most of Beacon’s major attractions are within walking distance, although you’ll want to wear comfortable shoes and pack some hiking boots—but more on that later. In the meantime, it’s well worth foregoing renting a car and, instead, enjoying the gorgeous scenery of the 75-minute train ride alongside the Hudson River.

The bad news is that it’s a little over a mile from the train station into town, but the good news is that there’s a brewery about two minutes into the walk. Duck into 2 Way Brewing Company (18 West Main Street) for some fortification for the hike ahead. Highly recommended is Confusion, 2 Way’s interpretation of traditional farmhouse ale, but it’s just one of the many brews that 2 Way makes on the premises and keeps on tap. And in the event of an overly enthusiastic sampling of the rest of 2 Way’s catalog, note that there are plenty of cabs around to make it the rest of the way to the hotel. Try Empire Cab (845-831-4444) or A Beacon Cab Service (845-625-6422).

FRIDAY NIGHT

Located on Fishkill Creek at Beacon Falls, in the former home of America’s first lawn-mower factory, the beautifully restored buildings that make up The Roundhouse (2 East Main Street) feature 23 boutique hotel rooms along with The Roundhouse at Beacon Falls, a critically acclaimed upscale, casual restaurant showcasing the bounty of the Hudson Valley. It’s an easy stroll from the hotel after check-in. The Roundhouse’s summer menu includes pulled chicken with goat cheese mayo, arugula, and pickled onions, and a patio just about 100 yards away from the raucous cascade known as Beacon Falls. Later on, for a nightcap or two and maybe even a plate of French fries (don’t worry, those extra calories can be burned off tomorrow), take a walk up the street to cozy, brick-lined Dogwood (47 East Main Street).

SATURDAY MORNING

Sarah Wolmer tries the Salty Honey Butter pie at the Beacon Pie Company.

Grab a breakfast sandwich made with fresh local eggs and a mug of good strong coffee at Homespun Foods (232 Main Street) and enjoy it in the leafy courtyard while waiting for the morning fog to lift (both externally and internally). All clear? Great! Because it’s time to hike to the top of Mount Beacon.

The city’s namesake, and the star of the New York State flag, towers over Main Street. Head to the trailhead at Mount Beacon Park (at the intersection of Route 9D and Howland Avenue), grab a map from the kiosk, and head up the Red Trail. It’s a steep, one-mile climb to the 1,600-foot south summit, but the views facing west over the Hudson River, with the Shawangunks and the Catskills in the distance, are worth it. Also at the south summit are the ruins of a mountaintop casino and an incline railway that ferried the well-to-do up the slopes for a night of high-class revelry 90 years ago. From the ruins, the Red Trail leads up to the recently restored Beacon Fire Tower on the north summit. On a clear day, from the very top of the tower, Manhattan can be spotted over the rolling green hills. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours to make it all the way to the fire tower and back to the trailhead at a leisurely pace.

SATURDAY AFTERNOON

After a hike like that, it’s time for some protein intake.

Poppy’s Burgers and Fries (184 Main Street) offers local, grass-fed burgers that are arguably the best in the Hudson Valley, and the menu’s vegetarian options (including rice bowls and a homemade veggie burger) are made with the same high standards as its meatier offerings.

After lunch, Main Street is well worth exploring.

Hudson Beach Glass (162 Main Street) offers glassblowing demonstrations; Dream in Plastic (177 Main Street), which was born in a Brooklyn basement in 2007 and moved to Beacon in 2009, is stocked with fun, kitschy items from Asia, from Ganesha air fresheners to adorable/terrifying Japanese toys; Sound Shack (190 Main Street) has plenty of crates filled with vinyl for digging; and locally made spirits abound at Denning’s Point Distillery (10 North Chestnut Street).

Gordy, Sarah, and Henry Bram taking a family bike ride.

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John Chamberlain, installation view, Dia:Beacon, Riggio Galleries.

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Along the way, there are dozens of art galleries to check out, as well as the Beacon Theater (445 Main Street), a 1930s art deco theater that’s in the process of being restored. BAU Gallery (506 Main Street) showcases the 11 members of the Beacon Artists Union, including mixed-media artist Carla Goldberg and sculptors Tom Homes and Gary Jacketti. Matteawan Gallery (464 Main Street) represents a long list of local artists, including “performative drawing” artist August Ventimiglia. Fovea Exhibitions (143 Main Street) specializes in photojournalism that’s both humanitarian and provocative; a recent show, “Gitmo at Home, Gitmo at Play,” featured photographs of Guantánamo Bay by Debi Cornwall.

SATURDAY EVENING

Recently expanded, The Hop (554 Main Street) is a combination bar/restaurant/craft beer store that’s always packed with happy locals and contented tourists alike. It’s right across the street from The Roundhouse, making it easy to retire after a fine meal of kale and lamb sausage with local polenta and a few IPAs.

SATURDAY NIGHT

But who wants to retire when there’s live music to hear? The longstanding Towne Crier Cafe (379 Main Street) books rustic, folky acts. Recent performers include Rickie Lee Jones, Ani DiFranco, and Suzanne Vega. But for music that’s a little more unpredictable, there’s Quinn’s (330 Main Street), whose lineup recently included one of former Sonic Youth leader Thurston Moore’s experimental side projects and a whole coven’s worth of death metal bands. Ears ringing yet? Now it’s time to go to bed.

SUNDAY MORNING

Load up on carbs on the back patio of Culture Cafe (157 Main Street) with one of six varieties of pancakes, then head back down the river to Dia:Beacon (3 Beekman Street). Located inside a former Nabisco factory on the banks of the Hudson, the museum showcases large-scale artworks from the 1960s to the present, all from the collection of the New York City-based Dia Art Foundation.

It’s an easy downward stroll toward the train station, where the Beacon Farmer’s Market, sets up on the docks of the Hudson River every Sunday in warmer weather (and inside the nearby big red barn in the winter). With luck, one of two famous sloops might be docked there too, offering short rides. Both the Clearwater (run by the environmental group of the same name) and the Woody Guthrie, operated by the Beacon Sloop Club) were restored by the late folk icon Pete Seeger (a longtime Beacon resident) and his ever-willing compatriots.

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

It’s not necessary to be a Whovian to enjoy a late lunch at the Dr. Who-themed restaurant Pandorica (165 Main Street), but guests may be left wondering why the stuffed potatoes on the menu are referred as a “Sontaran Brigade.” (See, the Sontarans were an evil race of aliens who kind of looked like...well, never mind.) Instead, tuck into a chicken cottage pie or a plate of fried fish fingers with custard, and try not to get sucked into the heated conversation two tables away about which Dr. Who actor was the best one.

(Arguably, it was the fourth, Tom Baker.)

FIND A PLACE TO CRASH. NEW CONTENT EVERY WEEK AT

upstater.com/weekend–rentals

SUMMER 2015

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FLOW CHART

WHICH HV TOWN ARE YOU?

*

HOW RURAL DO YOU WANT TO GO? VERY!

RURAL-ISH

OR

LAND LUBBER - OR - RIVER LOVER?

QUAINT - OR - GRITTY?

YOU SURE?

NO TRACTORS IN SIGHT

OR

NO

YES!

EARLY RISER - OR - NIGHT OWL?

FISHKILL

INTO HIKING? YES

NO

CHARM PREFERENCE?

SALT-OF-THE-EARTH

UPPER-CLASS CHARM

OR

OR

IRONICALLY DETACHED

WORKING-CLASS CHARM

DRINK OF CHOICE?

TOLERANCE LEVEL FOR SPOTTY CELL SERVICE? COME AGAIN?

HOW DO YOU PREFER YOUR LOCALS?

HIGH

TEA

OR

OR

CULTURALLY PASSIONATE HOW DO YOU PREFER YOUR BIKING?

COFFEE RHINEBECK

OR BONGO TOLERANCE LEVEL?

BOOZE

HIGH

MOTORIZED

COLD SPRING

OR

LOW

NON-MOTORIZED MILLERTON

GERMANTOWN

STONE RIDGE MORE OF A . . .

FARMER - OR - MOUNTAIN PERSON?

TOLERANCE LEVEL OF COLLEGE STUDENTS? HIGH

LOW

NEWBURGH PENCHANT FOR MODERN ART? FESTIVAL PREFERENCE?

HIGH FALLS

CATSKILL

NEW PALTZ

OUTDOOR SPORT PREFERENCE?

YES

PREFER CRAFTS

MEH...

BALLOON FESTIVALS OR STREET FESTIVALS

BIKING

HUDSON

OR TIVOLI

KAYAKING BEACON

ENJOY THE PERFORMING ARTS?

KINGSTON

YES

POUGHKEEPSIE

ROSENDALE LIVE THEATER - OR - LIVE MUSIC?

MEH...

WOODSTOCK

*Entirely wrong way to go about this. For real resources on finding the town that’s right for you, visit upstater.com 68 upstater

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R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

INFOGRAPHIC: REAL ESTATE

PERSONAL SPACE VS. DISTANCE FROM NYC* ANCE FROM NYC D I S T (in miles) SPIRALING INTO CONTROL

Greene 12 0

20

Columbia

Westchester Rockland Ulster

100

40

2,000

(people/sq. mile)

1,500 Putnam

1,000

Dutchess

Orange

500 80

60

TOTAL NUMBER OF SINGLE-FAMILY HOME SALES*

MEDIAN SALE PRICE OF SINGLE-FAMILY HOMES*

(BY COUNTY)

3500

$800K $700K

2500

$600K

2000

$500K

$

$

$

$

$ ne Gree

mbia Colu

r Ulste

hess Dutc

ge Oran

am

land

$100K

Rock

550 FOR SALE

ster

r Ulste

hess Dutc

ge Oran

Putn

land Rock

Wes

tche

ster

0

am

360 FOR SALE

$

$200K

tche

650 FOR SALE

mbia

840 FOR SALE

500

$300K

ne

1,070 FOR SALE

Colu

1000

$

$400K 1,440 FOR SALE

Gree

1,800 FOR SALE

1500

$

Putn

3,490 FOR SALE

Wes

3000

(BY COUNTY)

*2014 data provided by the New York State Association of Realtors and the New York State Census Bureau.

R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

SUMMER 2015

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garydimauro.com Where the search for the perfect country home begins.

(And ends.)

Sturgeon Point Manor

$4,500,000

Stately 7800 sf home w/ 24 acres on Hudson River in Rhinecliff w/ 2500 sf indoor pool house. Built in 2002, inspired by the historic Hudson River estates. Winding drive, impressive entry hall, formal rooms w/ coffered ceilings, views of the river and Catskill Mtns. Gourmet kitchen w/ wine cellar, 4 FPs, steam room.

❚ Gary DiMauro 845.757.5000 x11

Rowe House

$1,200,000

Federal meets Fab—circa 1810 historic manor house in Milan on 10 acres w/ pond and 2 swimming pools. Delightful joining of authentic Federal wing and 1970s-style entertainer’s paradise.

Indoor pool w/ fireside seating area, poolhouse w/ sauna and fireplace. 5 BRs, 5.5 BAs. Stylish kitchen, detached 6 bay garage, country views.

❚ Gary DiMauro 845.757.5000 x11

Grand Hudson Craftsman

$599,000

Handsome Craftsman-style 4 BR house, designed by Hudson Architect Victor de la Prosse in 1915. 2000 sf, light-filled, overlooking the City of Hudson, restored for authenticity and renovated for modern comfort, the newest addition being an impeccably curated shade garden complimenting the strong lines of the house.

❚ Kathy Duffy 518.822.0800 x11

Clermont Farmhouse

$525,000

Charming 4BR, 3 BA. Fully renovated, spacious rooms w/ exposed beams and original details, large gourmet kitchen w/ breakfast room, library, formal dining room, outdoor deck w/ dining area, heated pool. Picturesque property w/ pond, open meadows, mature trees and gardens. Barn, workshop, studio w/ wood stove.

❚ Gary DiMauro 845.757.5000 x11

Holland Hall

$425,000

Built in 1705, this 4 BR stone beauty in Saugerties was rescued, rebuilt and lovingly restored by the current owners’ family 40 years ago. Craftsmanship throughout preserves its history while creating a comfortable modern home. Outside are gardens, a screened porch and sweeping mountain vistas.

❚ Susan Barnett 518.943.7533 x13

Hudson Riverscape

$399,000

Magnificent mini-resort in pastoral New Baltimore, 1850s 2 BR center hall colonial w/ sweeping Hudson River views from the back knoll and protected lands in front. Property also includes 3 BR colonial for guests or income, heated pool w/ pool house and studio/ office. Terraced, landscaped gardens.

❚ Pamela Belfor 917.734.7142

Tivoli NY • Hudson NY • Catskill NY • Rhinebeck NY 70 upstater

/ u p s t a t e r.c o m / re a l – e s t a t e – l i s t i n g s

garydimauro.com R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

Patricia A. Hinkein Realty 19 Church Ave, Germantown, NY (518) 537-4888 www.hinkeinrealty.com • hinkein@gmail.com

Riverbend in North Germantown

This turn of the century attractive Arts & Crafts style house sits on a knoll overlooking the Hudson River & Catskill Mountains on 8.6 acres. One of the few properties to offer river views to the west & north. Also includes a 3-story early 1900’s barn. $2,500,000.

Breathtaking Hudson River & Catskill Mountain Views!

This often-photographed property features approximately 11 acres, an 18th Century Eyebrow Colonial Farmhouse & a vintage Barn on three separate tax lots. Truly a park-like property. Office Exclusive. $2,995,000.

Hudson River Retreat

Located at the end of a long driveway this totally private Georgian style house features a wall of french doors overlooking the River/ Catskill Mountain views, a gourmet kitchen livingroom with fireplace, wonderful masterbedroom suite with large balcony, covered porch. Fabulous guesthouse. Gunite lap pool.Landscaped grounds. Gatehouse converted to a two family. On 11 acres in Germantown. $2,500,000

R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

SUMMER 2015

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The Catskills Lifestyle

VillageGreenRealty.com

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Mountainside Refuge | Durham | $995,000

Walk To All | Kingston | $174,900

Hudson River Views |Saugerties | $695,000

Farmhouse Style | Stone Ridge | $639,000

History Updated | Saugerties | $389,900

“Alfalfa House” |Kerhonkson| $1,850,000

Mountain Farmhouse | Ashland | $238,000 Stunning Compound |Woodstock| $1,495,000 *according to Ulster County MLS and Columbia Greene Northern Dutchess MLS 2011-2014.

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VILLAGE GREEN REALTY R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

Homes starting at

$274,900 ONLY 5 CONDOMINIUM TOWNHOMES LEFT!

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R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

SUMMER 2015

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Beautiful 1850’s Federal Colonial

This 4600 sq. ft. home has 6 BR, 3 1/2 Baths, 3 car garage on approx.

1 acre of land. Generous sized rooms, HW floors, 11 ft. ceilings & abundant moldings around doorways & ceilings are just some of the fabulous attributes of this home. LR has a marble fireplace & 3 windows allowing in lots of light. Large DR is great for entertaining w/floor to ceiling window & a bay window which adds much character. Large recently renovated kitchen has beautiful windows w/view of the gardens & yard. Granite countertops, recessed lighting, pantry cabinets, double wall ovens, breakfast island & stainless steel appliances, & laundry area on first floor. Large screened porch and a patio off screened porch w/ a hot tub & barbequing area. This home could have a rental apt/office/B&B in rear if desired but presently used as a 1 family. Additional 1/2 ac. of property available if interested. $589,000

John Finch Realty 845-338-9279 www.johnfinchrealty.com

CHARLOTTE VALLEY FARMS A Treasured Piece of Rural History with a Modern Luxurious Twist, Now Offered For Sale.

LIST PRICE: $2.35M with 464 Acres or $998,750 with 10 Acres.

Nestled amid the beauty of the Catskill Mountains on 464 acres of USDA Organically-Certified lands awaits a one-of-a-kind opportunity. A circa 1795 Federal Farmhouse listed on the NYS and National Historic Register, this distinguished, fully-functional organic farm and equestrian facility affords a unique and upscale country lifestyle for the discerning inhabitant with an appreciation of history, luxury and nature.

www.CatskillRetreat.com Spectacular home features 6 bedrooms, 5 baths, fireplace & 75’ indoor lap pool Michael R. Franklin Licensed R. E. Broker 315.876.2262 mike.franklin@franklinruttan.com

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CHARLOTTEVILLE REALTY

Christy Dahms, Licensed R. E. Broker 607.434.5993 christy@charlottevillerealty.com www.OrganicCatskillEstate.com

R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

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SUMMER 2015

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COMMUTER SPECTACULAR

Finely crafted with extraordinary attention to detail to include rich moldings, nine and eighteen foot ceilings and two-story fireplace. Five gorgeous acres with a pond. WEB# GH1141222 LA GRANGE $649,000 Jill Rose Real Estate Salesperson Mobile: 914.204.0124

HOME OF DISTINCTION

Peace and tranquility abounds around these beautifully restored and renovated homes. This special Clinton property must be seen to be truly appreciated. WEB# GH1150779 CLINTON $529,000 Nicole Porter Associate Real Estate Broker Mobile: 845.797.5300

STUNNING COTTAGE

If you are looking for your special home in the woods this may just be the one. The vinyl siding faux cedar shakes is just one of the many recent updates. Inviting and private. WEB# GH1151783 LA GRANGE $209,900 Ellen Mallet Real Estate Salesperson Mobile: 914.475.2973

THE SULLIVAN REGENCY

Luxury gated doorman building, custom indoor/outdoorpool, game room, community hall, fitness center, shuttle service to Bethel Woods Center for the arts. WEB# GH1145010 MONTICELLO priced from $149,000 John A. Oliveira Associate Real Estate Broker Mobile: 914.447.2081

LAGRANGEVILLE BROKERAGE | 1325 ROUTE 55 | 845.473.9770 | HOULIHANLAWRENCE.COM

Local Market Leader. Area’s Largest Global Network.

PROVEN AND PROVING IT.

Sharyn Richards Marks Licensed Real Estate Salesperson

ARTHUR LEE OF RED ROCK INC. Your Country Home Destination

Willow Realty Hudson Valley Real Estate - Ulster County Real Estate

Country Elegance in Chatham Center, NY NYSERDA Energy Star® rated custom built home. Open floor plan with wide board pine floors, incorporates a living room with vaulted ceiling, wood burning fireplace, and panoramic views of the bucolic valley scene with the Catskills beyond. The custom kitchen boasts granite counters, a large island, custom desk area, and breakfast nook. The formal dining room leads to a three season, enclosed porch. On the second floor, an expansive mastersuite with private balcony provides gorgeous sunset views. The same level incorporates two additional bedrooms, and full bath. Behind the main house, the very private, gated, backyard oasis is enhanced by an in-ground heated, salt pool, a comfortable pool house and a bar. The property is conveniently located within easy reach of all major highways, and many cultural centers.

Asking $869,000.

Cell: (518) 821-1119 Office: (518) 392-9144 RealEstateColumbiaCountyNY.com

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Gardiner: Beautiful light-filled contemporary on the Wallkill River. Private, yet not isolated in a great neighborhood of upscale homes. This is the perfect weekend house as well as a great year round house. It is in move-in condition.

MLS # 20152700 Asking $457,000

845-255-7666

Laurie Willow, Broker Willowrealestate.com • Laurie@WillowRealEstate.com 33 Gibbons Lane, New Paltz NY

R E A L E S TA T E S E C T I O N

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First Offering u Southern Columbia County, New York Lake Properties Are Our Specialty!

First offering of two prime parcels featuring majestic views of the Hudson River and northern Hudson Highlands, highlighting Bannerman’s Island. Private road leading to parcels surrounded by true park lands.

Interested individuals & real estate professionals please contact : Chairmanstowe@gmail.com “Chairman” Stowe is a professional chair caner specializing in antique chair restoration.

Spend your retirement with us.

New homes starting at only $179,900.

NOW SELLING PHASE II

Spend your retirement at Summerset Landing. Nestled next to pristine farmlands in front of the Catskill Mountains–close to Hudson, Kinderhook and Albany!

• • • • • •

Convenient single story homes Energy Star-Zone construction State-of-the-art kitchens Low Maintenance Enjoy biking, boating, fishing, golf Theatres, museums, shopping malls, and antiques are all nearby!

Seems Like Old Times.

Dating back to the 1850’s, this Greek Revival, Eyebrow, Center Hall Colonial takes you back in time. Formal living room, dining area, den, hearths, wood stoves, 4 BR, 2BA 2,275 sf. Private deck and screened porch overlooks your waterfront on Zecky’s Pond. Stone walls, rock gardens and perennial plantings. Barn and wood shed complete the package. Can be sold ‘turn-key’. Asking $599,000 Located in Southern Columbia County, New York, this home is about 2 hours from Manhattan and 2.5 hours from Boston – nestled between the Berkshires and the Catskills.

What a great location to be. In less than ½ hour you can be in Hudson, Chatham or Millerton, NY or Great Barrington, MA – each town has their own distinct personality. Music, theatre, Catamount Ski Area/Adventure Park is 10 minutes away, farmer’s markets, hiking, biking, swimming, fishing – it’s all here. Within walking distance to Copake Lake and Copake Country Club. So much to do (or not) and so little time.

155 SUMMERSET ROAD, STUYVESANT, NY

SG

SIMON GRAY

Represented by Simon Gray Realty Please call us or visit our website for details and additional photos.

Realty

(518) 758-2802

Gerald Goldman

R E A L EPrincipal S TA T E S E CTION Broker

www.simongrayrealty.com summersetlanding.com

Lindsay LeBrecht , Real Estate Broker 285 Lakeview Road, Craryville, NY

SUMMER 2015

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Lynn Walcutt

LMSW

INTUITIVE | PSYCHIC COUNSELOR

Life Readings to Enhance Understanding of Life Path Relationships, Home, Career, Finances, Present Influences & Future Directions

Phone readings as well as in person FOR APPOINTMENT

845-384-6787 lynn.walcutt@gmail.com

LYNNWALCUTT.COM MA N HATTA N | HU DSON VA LLEY | PA LM B E ACH 40 YEA R S’ EXPER I EN CE

Your style, your budget, your vision.

Your kitchen...

Kitchens DesigneD for cooKing Make the most of your precious time spent upstate.

We can meet at your site, schedule appointments around your time, and use the internet to visually communicate the details of your project at all stages, no matter where you are.

845-834-3047 Markjamesandco.com studio: tues-sat 10-4, or by appointment.

590 rte 299, heritage square, highland 78 upstater

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Marlene Weber Day Spa

marleneweber.com / (845) 454-5852

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Menla Mountain Retreat & Conference Center

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Wm. Farmer and Sons

Friends & Family II Hillside Restaurant

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SUMMER 2015

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LAST LOOK

S T O RY B Y S U S A N P I P E R AT O / P H O T O B Y R O Y G U M P E L

More Alices

Mikey Jackson and Aurelia Winborn at 2 Alices in Newburgh.

Film camera assistants Mikey Jackson and Aurelia Winborn moved from Brooklyn to Cornwall-on-

Community is our business model.

Hudson in 2007 with their son Atticus, who’s now 10.

Little did they know they would change their lives completely by becoming café owners. We talked to Jackson to get the details.

Why did you move to the Hudson Valley?

We wanted to buy our own place, and that didn’t seem to be affordable in Brooklyn. We liked Cornwall, and the fact that it had a coffee shop— we couldn’t live in a town that didn’t have one. 2 Alices had been open a year when we moved here. We bought it a year later. But buying a business wasn’t on our agenda. We were just trying to get out of the city.

Did you have any second thoughts about moving?

We were both in shock from pulling the plug on New York. We were like, “What the hell did we just do?” We didn’t know anybody here.

Then we purchased 2 Alices. That planted us here and made us feel like this was home, not the city.

What’s best about living up here?

I can walk out of my business or my house and know almost every person’s name. Our son is really happy up here. We’ve asked him if he wants to move back into the city, and he always says, “No, I don’t like it. It’s too crazy there. I like it up here.”

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How’s the original café going?

It’s been over seven years now. The clientele has quadrupled, but all the original customers that were there seven years ago still come in every day. Community is our business model. We need and want to appeal to everyone. It feels great that our place is their common ground. Having a strong community makes a town a success, so anything we can do to support that seems to work hand in hand with our business model.

You recently opened a second 2 Alices at Safe Harbors of the Hudson, a large-scale redevelopment project combining housing and the arts, on Broadway in Newburgh.

We’d been talking about a second location for years. But when Safe Harbors came to us, it felt more right than before. Newburgh seems to get a bad rap, but we didn’t think about it much. It seems very similar to some of the neighborhoods we lived in in Manhattan in the ’90s. There’s a guy opening up a really nice wine shop on the next corner and a couple of tapas places coming in. It seems like things can only get better.

Will there be more 2 Alices in your future?

There have to be.

FRESH CONTENT EVERY DAY AT

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3D Mammography. Exceptional Vision.

If you haven’t heard about the life saving benefits of 3D mammography, it’s time you did. This screening test takes more pictures from more angles, which can make all the difference for some women, including those with dense breasts, or at a higher risk of developing breast cancer. White Plains Hospital has 3D mammography available at all three imaging centers with evening and weekend appointments available.

Another example of how White Plains Hospital defines exceptional, every day.

FI N D O U T M O R E A B O U T B R E AST I M AG I N G AT W H I T E P L A I N S H O S P I TA L

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TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT R Y E B R O O K 9 14 - 9 3 5 - 0 0 11 N E W ROC H ELLE 914 - 3 3 6 - 59 0 0 W H I T E P L A I N S H O S P I TA L 914 - 6 81-2 9 2 9

JUNE 25 – AUGUST 16, 2015

BARDSUMMERSCAPE A “hotbed of intellectual and aesthetic adventure.” (New York Times)

OPERA JULY 24 – AUGUST 2

THE WRECKERS

and the 26th annual Bard Music Festival,

By Ethel Smyth American Symphony Orchestra Conducted by Leon Botstein, music director Directed by Thaddeus Strassberger

of Mexican composer Carlos Chávez.

Smyth’s compelling, majestic opera about murder, betrayal, and love.

Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing

DANCE JUNE 27–28

Bard SummerScape presents eight weeks

of opera, dance, music, drama, film, cabaret, this year exploring the works and world

SummerScape takes place in the extraordinary Arts and other venues on Bard College’s

stunning Mid-Hudson River Valley campus.

Tickets, starting at $25, on sale now Chartered coach transportation and packages available

845-758-7900 fishercenter.bard.edu

Bard College, Annandale-on-Hudson, NY

PAM TANOWITZ DANCE & FLUX QUARTET THEATER JUNE 25 – JULY 19 Rodgers and Hammerstein’s

OKLAHOMA!

A new, boldly intimate chamber production of the classic musical directed by Daniel Fish.

SPIEGELTENT JULY 3 – AUGUST 16

CABARET, MUSIC, FINE DINING, AND MORE

26TH SEASON

BARD MUSIC FESTIVAL CHÁVEZ AND HIS WORLD

Exploring the musical world of Carlos Chávez, the most eminent Latin American modernist composer.

WEEKEND ONE AUGUST 7–9 The Musical Voice of Mexico WEEKEND TWO AUGUST 14–16 Mexico, Latin America, and Modernism FILM SERIES JULY 11 – AUGUST 2

REINVENTING MEXICO