Tested but still tasty

from Upstate Lake Living - Winter 2022

The first & the finest

VANGELI’S 2.0

Add wine to the reasons you should enjoy this Upstate eatery

story by Brett McLaughlin | photos courtesy of Vangeli’s Bistro

Among many popular salads is the mini heirloom tomato option, which features shaved onion and fresh mozzarella, tossed with 18-year aged balsamic dressing. It is topped with a pecorino Romano cheese and crouton stick.

When in doubt, scientists study what we put into our bodies … food and drink.

What do we eat? What do we drink? When do we eat? How much do we drink? How do we eat? Is drinking good for us? What’s good for us to eat? Is red wine in moderation really beneficial? What shouldn’t we eat? Are there any redeeming qualities to Sangria? The questions go on and on.

In fact, if we had all the money that has been poured into researching what we ingest, we could all enjoy a good four or five course meal with outrageously expensive wines to complement every course.

But, let’s face it, we all must eat and drink.

What we don’t have to do is cook. We also don’t have to spend a lot of time studying viticulture or mixology. Other people will do those things for us. In fact, other studies have shown that cooking, baking, concocting creative cocktails and organizing a wine list can be effective ways to relieve stress.

In her book “Addicted to Stress,” Debbie Mandel notes, “Cooking is a great destresser because it serves as a creative outlet. And while stress can numb your senses, cooking activates them. It’s a sensory experience with aroma, taste, touch, visual delight and even sizzling sound.”

Enter Evan Dimas and Melissa Ryan, owner/chef and manager, respectively, of Vangeli’s Bistro in Seneca.

In 2015, Dimas and his brother Spiro opened Vangeli’s in just about the smallest possible space one could find on Seneca’s popular Ram Cat Alley. Success followed … that is until the roof fell in on the City Pool Room next door and the building was condemned. Deconstruction of the space put Vangeli’s out of business as well.

Undaunted, Dimas moved to purchase the space, which proved to be a time-consuming and costly endeavor. With help from a private backer and the newly constituted Seneca Improvement Corporation, Dimas secured the necessary funding and pressed ahead.

“We wanted to keep the same atmosphere and feel that had made Vangeli’s special,” Dimas said, “but we essentially built a new building inside an old façade.”

An original brick wall that was a trademark of the original restaurant was retained, as was some lumber used to create a new bar top. The new space could seat over 100, but Dimas opted for 85-90 — still more than double what the original restaurant had held.

A grand reopening was planned for March 2020.

Then a pandemic broke out. Restaurants closed. Employees were furloughed. Ryan, who was determined to continue learning the wine trade, went to work in a retail wine store, keeping an eye on what customers were buying. Vangeli’s opening was pushed back as politicians from Columbia to Washington D.C. debated restaurant guidelines.

{top to bottom} The prime filet mignon at Vangeli’s is served with grilled asparagus, pepper relish and cheddar risotto with demi-glace. • Vegetarians have options at Vangeli’s, one of which is this garlic roasted eggplant entrée. It is served over curried lentils, with grilled zucchini and sauteed spinach. For those seeking more protein, a grilled chicken breast can be added as in this photo. • Periodically, Vangeli’s diners will find sushi-grade Ahi tuna on the menu. It is generally served as an appetizer and seasoned with heirloom tomatoes, fresh cucumber and diced onion.

As if that wasn’t stressful enough, on April 13, 2020, a tornado tore through Seneca’s south side. Among the buildings it destroyed was Dimas Bros., a breakfast and lunch café that Evan and his brother had purchased and where Spiro was to oversee the kitchen. (It recently reopened for inside dining, takeout and catering.)

When the doors at Vangeli’s finally opened on June 19, 2020, and the grand opening was held the following month, the seating capacity was 40, about the same as it had been in the original restaurant. Screens separated all the tables. Only four people could sit at the bar.

Two years later, however, the screens are gone. All the stools are back at the bar and Evan and his expanded staff are conjuring up ever better culinary treats. Ryan is back, managing the house and beaming over the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence the bistro was presented last August.

“It’s quite a process,” she explained, noting that Wine Spectator — considered the industry’s leading American publication — looks at many factors. “They look at what wines are offered, pricing, vintages, pairings and diversity. You have to provide a lot of information. I don’t think there’s another restaurant in Oconee that has won it.”

However, getting the prestigious award is just the beginning, according to Ryan.

“We have about 100 wines on the menu right now, but I want to get to the next level,” she said, explaining that her goal is an eclectic mix of about 300 vintages. “I want to try different things … things you won’t find in grocery stores … wines from Argentina, Mexico and Spain.”

Ryan is now providing suggested pairings for all menu items, following Dimas’s lead from the kitchen, unless he is cooking for a by-invitation wine tasting event.

Noting that the restaurant offers an unheard of 60 wines by the glass, Ryan said she has noticed a definite uptick in wine sales since getting the award.

“People are trusting our recommendations, and we’re offering more pairings all the time,” she said.

Meanwhile, Dimas is “keeping it simple” in the kitchen.

{clockwise from top} Fresh diver scallops with pepper relish and seaweed salad are a popular staple on Vangeli’s menu. • The raw sugar crusted bruleed banana is spiced up with brown sugar spiced rum infused with peanut butter, and is served with vanilla bean ice cream, caramel sauce, whipped cream and pizzelle. • This is the expanded dining area that used to house the City Pool Room. After a lengthy delay due to the collapse of the old building’s roof, the new space more than doubled Vangeli’s seating capacity. • Owner/chef Evan Dimas and Manager Melissa Ryan toast the recently awarded Wine Spectator Award of Excellence presented to Vangeli’s Bistro. Ryan is already taking aim at the next level of awards presented by the industry-leading publication.

“We are always striving for the unattainable and hoping to provide you with the permissible. Ultimately our hope is to provide an incredible experience and memory.”

— FROM THE VANGELI’S BISTRO WEBSITE —

Owner Evan Dimas credits “family” for the success of his eateries. Among the actual family members involved is daughter, Alexi, whose creative cocktails have extended the popularity of Vangeli’s Bistro.

“We only want to offer five to eight entrees and two to six appetizers,” he said. “We’re focusing on quality and consistency.”

Dimas has slowed the pace of menu changes, sticking with staples such as the steak frite, the high-selling diver scallop appetizer and the ever-popular banana crème brulee. Fresh seafood, up to three steak entrees and a variety of pork chops are also standard fare.

“We keep our ears open to customer requests,” he said, “and the team here is being urged to create their own ideas, including my daughter, who works behind the bar.”

With winter upon us, Dimas said the restaurant will feature more “Momma’s home cooking” kinds of entrees and winter cocktails.

“We will have more braised meats, maybe some wild boar and veal osso buco … the kinds of things folks enjoy during the winter,” he said.

And, for those who were wondering, depression is not required to desire a good meal, and studies have shown that when consumed with meals, small amounts of red wine may be associated with reduced symptoms of depression.

So, there you go.

To reserve your seat at Vangeli’s, visit www.vangelisbistro.com and click on the “book your reservation now” button. n