Pig out in Lexington

SMOKEDto PERFECTION

The history and personality behind Lexington barbecue

story by Vanessa Infanzo

Billowing smoke from barbecue pits and the smell of cooked pig were part of the spectacle during courthouse sessions in Lexington, NC, in the early 1900s. It was a chance for the people to have their day in court and eat barbecue too.

District court judges traveled across North Carolina to hold sessions in the county seats. The aroma of smoked pig was the signal for the judge to call a recess, no matter where they were in a hearing, says Newell Clark, Lexington native and former mayor.

In Lexington, men like Sid Weaver cooked in open pits and sold barbecue outside the courthouse, at the corner of West Center and Greensboro streets, an area now dubbed Barbecue Alley. Eventually, with help from Weaver, Will Johnson and Jesse Swicegood sold barbecue from a stand and not just on court dates, according to Lexington’s history.

Beck’s Barbecue was the first brick-and-mortar barbecue “joint” — the preferred name — and Weaver served as pitmaster. By the 1950s and ’60s, barbecue joints were spread all over Lexington — sometimes as many as 20 within Davidson County.

{above} At the corner of West Center and Greensboro streets in Lexington — an area now dubbed Barbecue Alley — men like Sid Weaver cooked in open pits and sold barbecue outside the courthouse. During a 1970s renovation of City Hall, workers revealed these 1930s brick-and-mortar pits from Beck’s Barbecue joint. Photo by Jon Eckard • {right} Today, there are 12 joints throughout the county, most operated by second-generation pitmasters. Photo by Craig Distl • {below} In addition to barbecue, a typical dinner tray can include a variety of sides, usually with Lexington slaw, and sweet tea or Cheerwine. Photo by @HrizukPhoto

Several years ago, a building renovation for City Hall revealed the 1930s brick-andmortar pits from Beck’s Barbecue joint. They were hidden behind sheetrock hung in a 1970s renovation. It’s now a public exhibit.

“As they started to do the demo, we saw these four windows,” Clark says. “We had a lot of older citizens coming in saying, ‘I knew that was there’.”

Today, there are 12 joints throughout the county, most operated by second-generation family members with a third generation in training.

“Barbecue is a religion here,” Clark says.

Lexington style barbecue implies the meat is cooked and served in a similar way. Pitmasters all slow-cook pork shoulder, usually every day. Menus feature barbecue, although some restaurants include burgers, hot dogs, smoked turkey and homemade desserts. Dine-in and curb service are offered. Order a sandwich, plate or tray with the barbecue chopped, sliced or coarse chopped. Choices for sides may include baked beans, french fries, hush puppies and macaroni and cheese. Lexington slaw is chopped cabbage, mixed with ketchup and vinegar, not mayonnaise, typically served on top unless told otherwise. Add sweet, unsweet tea or Cheerwine to complete the order, and it’s ready in a matter of minutes.

Michael Conrad operates the Barbecue Center on North Main Street with his brother Cecil Conrad and their mother, Nancy Conrad. The restaurant’s been around since 1955, opening originally as the Dairy Center.

“It takes 8 to 10 hours [to cook],” Michael Conrad says. “In one day, we cook about 350 to 700 pounds [of meat].”

Rick Monk is a second-generation owner. His father, Wayne Monk started Lexington Barbecue in 1962 with Sonny Honeycutt. The location, off Interstate 85, was not considered ideal at the time. Honeycutt left the business after 60 days. Some locals still refer to the restaurant as Honey Monk’s, while others dropped Honey and just call it Monk’s. Either way, if you ask a local how to find Lexington Barbecue, the restaurant, they might not know where to direct you.

Lexington style barbecue is meant to be enjoyed without heavy sauces. The taste of the meat is what’s important. When you’re in Lexington and want something extra, ask for their dip, not sauce.

“[The name] dip actually comes from drippings, believe it or not,” says Monk. “Seniors, from age 75 to 100, that have been around Davidson County all these years, would call the grease coming off the bottom of the shoulders, drippings. They would collect it and pour it back on the shoulders. That’s as far as I know about the history of it.”

Dip is a vinegar-based sauce used for sandwiches, fries and hush puppies. Each Lexington joint makes its own proprietary dip with a blend of spices.

“We make about 400 gallons of dip a week to use in the restaurant,” Monk says. “I would not sell [the recipe] for a million bucks.” n

Editor’s note: A version of this story originally published in SouthPark Magazine.

2023 FALL BARBECUE FESTIVAL

Since 1984, Lexington has hosted the Barbecue Festival, an event that attracts more than 150,000-200,000 attendees.

Plan now for October 28, 2023. Ten blocks on Main Street are sectioned off for pig races, children’s rides, an elaborate sand sculpture, antique and Corvette car shows, BMX bicycle stunt show, arts and crafts and other vendors. Live local, regional and national music is played on one of seven stages. Of course, Lexington style barbecue is available for purchase. Get to the festival early to see the mayor begin the events with a ceremonial first bite of a barbecue sandwich.

{at top} Customers can order a sandwich, plate or tray with the barbecue chopped, sliced or coarse chopped. Photo by @HrizukPhoto • {above} Sometimes as many as 20 “joints” are offering barbecue in and around Lexington, NC, the heart of barbecue country. Photo by Jon Eckard