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VENEZUELA

QUITO'S FORMAL NAME IS SAN FRANCISCO DE QUITO COORDINATES

POPULATION IN 1962

354,746 2,781,641 2,850

0.1807° S 78.4678° W

POPULATION IN 2020

ELEVATION IN METERS

GREEN URBAN INDEX

SECOND HIGHEST CAPITAL CITY IN THE WORLD

13 M 2 PER INHABITANT

ǩW.H.O. STANDARD IS 9 M 2 3(5 ,1+$%,7$17Ǫ

TOP 5 ECUADORIAN EXPORTS:

OIL, BANANAS, FLOWERS, TUNA, SHRIMP

93%

73%

ECUADORIANS CLAIM THEY HAVE

750 OR MORE VARIETIES OF SOUP. THE MOST POPULAR IN QUITO IS POTATO LOCRO.

THE PRINCIPAL LANGUAGE IS SPANISH, SPOKEN BY 93% OF THE POPULATION. THE 35(ǫ&2/21,$/ /$1*8$*( 2) KICHWA IS SPOKEN BY 4% OF THE POPULATION, AND IS PART OF THE NATIONAL CURRICULUM.

OF QUITO'S POPULATION USES PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

2 KMS

OF STREETS IN THE OLD TOWN HAVE BEEN PEDESTRIANIZED IN THE LAST TWO YEARS

0, 12, 10–25

ACTIVE VOLCANOES SURROUNDING QUITO

5

CURRENCY SINCE THE YEAR 2000

WEATHER: THE EQUATOR CROSSES QUITO, SO IT HAS 0 SEASONS AND 12 HOURS OF DAYLIGHT ALL YEAR. TEMPERATURES MOSTLY HOVER BETWEEN 10-25 . C

in numbers

55

PICHINCHA COTOPAXI ANTISANA CAYAMBE COTACACHI

$USD

THE METROPOLITAN DISTRICT OF QUITO HOSTS 55 DIFFERENT SPECIES OF MOCKINGBIRDS

PORTRAIT OF A CITY AT THE CENTER OF THE WORLD

INTRODUCTION

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ARCHITECTURE & URBANISM CRAFT & DESIGN

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2 4

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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FOOD & DRINK

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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RESTAURANTS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32

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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44

TOURISM ART

FILM & MUSIC BUSINESS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

50

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EXCURSIONS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60

FINAL WORD

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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WRITING BY HUGO MACDONALD ê PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANA CUBA ê DESIGN BY HOFFMAN CREATIVE

I N T RO D UCT I O N

AN ENIGMATIC CAPITAL

Andean planes. The combined peculiarities of

FOLPDWH DQG JHRJUDSK\ PDNH (FXDGRU RQH RI the most biodiverse countries on the planet. Fruit, vegetables, herbs, and grains grow in

staggering There is a mysterious charm that hangs in

the air of Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. It

variety

and

abundance,

PDNHV IRU D IDVFLQDWLQJ IRRG FXOWXUH

which

Quito is a city of distinct neighborhoods that

has an elemental quality that comes from

each bears its own character: from the proud,

up, at 2,850 meters above sea level in the

FRORQLDO 2OG &LW\ WKH ĆŽUVW WR EH GHVLJQDWHG D

its

particular

geographical

setting.

High

Guayllabamba river basin, surrounded by active

volcanoes in the Andean mountain range, there is an otherworldly atmosphere. The light casts

encrusted Jesuit Baroque churches of the

World Heritage Cultural site by UNESCO in 1978) to the dusty streets of the sprawling settlements in the south; the dense, wide avenues of La

D ĆŽOWHUHG JORZ EDWKLQJ WKH FLW\ LQ D SLQNLVK KD]H Carolina to the leafy Bohemian streets of La WKDW EHOLHV WKH VXQoV ĆŽHUFH FDSDFLW\ WR EXUQ )ORUHVWD WKH IUHQ]LHG QLJKWOLIH RI /D 0DULVFDO at this altitude. Curious cloud formations roll

WR WKH WLG\ GLJQLĆŽHG UHVLGHQWLDO WRZHUV WKDW OLQH

GRZQ WKH 3LFKLQFKD DQG GLVSHUVH DV TXLFNO\ DV *RQ]žOH] 6XžUH] RYHUORRNLQJ WKH DƲXHQW JRRG they’ve arrived. Rain showers drench the city OLIH VXEXUE RI &XPED\ž GUDPDWLFDOO\ OLNH D WDS EHLQJ WXUQHG RQ :KHQ sunlight emerges again, the clean, wet streets

Quito is a compelling urban experience. There

GD]]OH VLPXOWDQHRXVO\ HWKHUHDO DQG K\SHU is a fascinating tension in the relationship of realistic. You can understand why populations opposing forces: nature and man, city and once believed they were closer to heaven here than anywhere on earth.

topography, indigenous and colonial, magic and

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conservative and liberal, the past and the future.

<HW RQH RI 4XLWRoV GHĆŽQLQJ FKDUDFWHULVWLFV LV 7KHVH FRQWUDVWV FRH[LVW FRQĆŽGHQWO\ VLGH E\ WKDW LW LV MXVW NLORPHWHUV DZD\ IURP WKH FHQWHU RI side and on top of each other. WKH HDUWK (FXDGRUoV RĆąFLDO QDPH LV p5HSĂ—EOLFD

GHO (FXDGRU q RU p5HSXEOLF RI WKH (TXDWRU q DQG the line that bisects the globe cuts through the

country. The equator passes just a little north

RI 4XLWR +HUH WKHUH LV D PRQXPHQW p0LWDG GHO Mundo,� where you can balance an egg on its tip

and stand with one foot in the northern and one

in the southern hemisphere. You do not need to

understand the physics to feel the magic.

0RUH WKDQ D SRODU PDJQHWLF WULFN 4XLWRoV

equatorial setting gives the city (and country) its unique identity and spirit. It governs the

weather, too. Quito has no seasons; the sun

rises and sets at the same time each day all year round. The consistency of climate across the

small country is matched by an extraordinary

It is the largest and fastest growing city in

Ecuador, but it is changing rapidly in other

ways too. Optimism and activism in younger

JHQHUDWLRQV DUH GHĆŽQLQJ FRQWHPSRUDU\ LGHQWLW\ and culture. Businesses are emerging with a

global ambition to promote Ecuador on the

world stage. People who studied internationally

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capital with vision and ambition to shape the

city of their future. From architecture to art, food to craft, business to hospitality, the city is experiencing a surge of creative energy. This

publication is an introduction to many people

and projects driving the future development

of this enigmatic, fascinating capital. It is an

exciting time to be in Quito.

JHRJUDSKLFDO UDQJH ZKLFK LQFOXGHV D 3DFLĆŽF FRDVW WKH $PD]RQ FORXG IRUHVWV DQG KLJK Çś +8*2 0$&'21$/' (',725

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a valley between

volcanoes 4

7KHUH LV D FRPSHOOLQJ JLGGLQHVV WR WKH WRSRJUDSK\ RI 4XLWR 7ZHQW\ ƮYH NLORPHWHUV DZD\ IURP WKH equator, high up in the clouds and perched under the Pichincha volcano, this is a city that grapples ZLWK LWV JHRJUDSKLFDO FRQWH[W 7KH 0HWURSROLWDQ 'LVWULFW RI 4XLWR KRVWV GLƬHUHQW HFRV\VWHPV What made sense to the Incas and Spanish as an important trading route between mountain SDVVHV WRGD\ VHHPV UDWKHU XQOLNHO\ DV WKH ORFDWLRQ IRU D UDSLGO\ H[SDQGLQJ FDSLWDO FLW\ ZLWK D SRSXODWLRQ RI DOPRVW PLOOLRQ <HW WKLV LV 4XLWRoV TXLUN DQG FKDUP ,W KDV JURZQ RUJDQLFDOO\ DQG FKDRWLFDOO\ +HPPHG LQ E\ VWHHS VORSHV LW LV DURXQG NLORPHWHUV ORQJ QRUWK WR VRXWK DQG MXVW NLORPHWHUV ZLGH VSLOOLQJ LQWR UDYLQHV $YHQXHV VWUHWFK WKH OHQJWK RI WKH FLW\ ELVHFWHG E\ VKRUWHU ODWHUDO DUWHULHV WKDW ƮOWHU SHRSOH LQWR QHLJKERUKRRGV HDVW DQG ZHVW 7KH SDUWLFXODULW\ RI LWV VHWWLQJ PHDQV \RX UDUHO\ IHHO OLNH \RX DUH LQ D KHDYLQJ PHWURSROLV DQG WKH FLW\ LV D MLJVDZ RI GLƬHUHQW neighborhoods, each with its own character.

5

old town

THE 16 TH CENTURY HILLY HEART OF THE COLONIAL CAPITAL WAS THE FIRST TO BE CLASSED $ :25/' +(5,7$*( 6,7( %< 81(6&2 ,1 $1' ,6 &216,'(5(' 7+( %(67ǫ35(6(59(' HISTORIC CENTER IN LATIN AMERICA. FROM THE HEADY GILT INTERIOR OF LA COMPAÑÍA TO THE GOVERNMENT, MUNICIPAL, AND CHURCH HEADQUARTERS FACING OFF IN PLAZA DE LA INDEPENDENCIA TO THE PEDESTRIAN STREETS OF LA RONDA AND THE DAILY BUSTLE OF

SAN FRANCISCO MARKET, THE CULTURAL HERITAGE OF QUITO IS IMPRESSIVE AND CHARMING. MUSEUMS, RESTAURANTS, AND HOTELS CATER TO A LARGELY TOURIST CROWD, THOUGH MANY BELIEVE THE NEW METRO, WHICH CONNECTS THE NEIGHBORHOOD TO THE NORTH AND SOUTH OF THE CITY, WILL BREATHE NEW LIFE INTO THE OLD TOWN FOR THE LOCAL POPULATION.

LA MARISCAL

A NEIGHBORHOOD OF TWO HALVES, LA MARISCAL WAS QUITO’S FIRST MODERN QUARTER BEYOND THE OLD TOWN. IT IS HOME TO SOME OF THE CITY’S EARLY 20 TH CENTURY PLANNED STREETS AND MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE, THOUGH TODAY IT IS BETTER KNOWN AS THE BACKPACKER QUARTER, CENTERED ON THE BARS AND HOSTELS OF PLAZA FOCH.

GONZÁLEZ SUÁREZ

THE CHIC AVENUE OF HANDSOME RESIDENTIAL TOWERS LARGELY BUILT IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE LAST CENTURY HAS SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS WEST OVER THE CITY, AND EAST DOWN OVER GUÁPULO INTO THE VALLEY OF CUMBAYÁ. RESTAURANTS AND CAFES AT STREET LEVEL CATER TO A SOPHISTICATED AND URBANE CROWD.

LA CAROLINA

7+,6 '2:172:1 0(75232/,7$1 ',675,&7 2) ,035(66,9( 72:(56 $1' 0,;('ǫ86( DEVELOPMENTS TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE LEAFY RECREATIONAL PARK IT FRAMES. COMBINING BUSINESS AND RESIDENTIAL, LEISURE AND PLEASURE, IT IS THE DYNAMIC HEART OF CONTEMPORARY QUITO, WHERE THE CITY’S YOUNG PROFESSIONALS LIVE, WORK, AND PLAY.

© Natalia Mclean

LA FLORESTA

7+( &2/25)8/ 75((Ç«/,1(' $1' *5$)),7,Ç«$'251(' 675((76 2) /$ )/25(67$ $5( +20( 72 48,72o6 /,%(5$/ &5($7,9( &52:' 0,'Ç«&(1785< 9,//$6 $5( ,17(563(56(' :,7+ NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANTS, STUDIOS, SHOPS, AND FOOD KIOSKS. COMMUNITY IS EVERYTHING IN LA FLORESTA AND LIFE HERE IS LIVED ON THE STREETS.

© Natalia Mclean

CUMBAYÁ

EAST OF THE CITY IN THE TUMBACO VALLEY, CUMBAYÁ ENJOYS A WARMER CLIMATE. IN THE LAST DECADE IT HAS BECOME THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF CHOICE FOR QUITO’S WEALTHY YOUNG FAMILIES AND EXPAT POPULATION. QUALITY OF LIFE IS HIGH ON THE AGENDA. LARGE VILLAS AND BOUTIQUE DEVELOPMENTS HOUSE A COSMOPOLITAN POPULATION WHO COMBINE GLOBAL LIFESTYLES WITH LOCAL COMMUNITY CULTURE.

© Soledad Rosales © Natalia Mclean

LA TEJEDORA, A FORMER INDUSTRIAL AREA, IS NOW A CREATIVE DISTRICT WITH AN ,035(66,9( 0,; 2) 5(7$,/ $1' )22' $1' '5,1. 67$57ǫ836 :$/.(56 -2**(56 $1' CYCLISTS ENJOY THE EL CHAQUIÑÁN PARK ON THE ROUTE OF THE FORMER RAILWAY. ELSEWHERE FARMERS’ MARKETS AND BAKERIES, BRUNCH SPOTS AND COCKTAIL BARS ADD TO THE HAPPY VALLEY ATMOSPHERE.

ART

THE SCENE

the graphic edge ,Q D EUHH]\ FRQYHUWHG YLOOD LQ /D )ORUHVWD ZLWK VZHHSLQJ YLHZV RYHU 4XLWR WR WKH 3LFKLQFKD JUDSKLF DUWLVW 0DMR 5RGUÊJXH] OHDGV D GHVLJQ VWXGLR FDOOHG /XQD /XQDUHV 7KH EXV\ WHDP RI GHVLJQHUV DUH EHKLQG WKH JUDSKLF LGHQWLW\ SDFNDJLQJ DUWZRUN DQG LOOXVWUDWLRQ RI PDQ\ RI WKH FRQƎGHQW \RXQJ brands emerging in the city, from restaurants to products to services. Majo herself is completing her MA in visual communication at the Royal College of Art in London. Developing a contemporary JUDSKLF FXOWXUH IRU (FXDGRULDQ RU 4XLWHÎDQ EUDQGV FRPHV ZLWK UHVSRQVLELOLW\ p7KHUH LV VR PXFK LQ RXU RZQ FXOWXUDO KHULWDJH WR EH LQVSLUHG E\ q 0DMR VD\V p6R PDQ\ SHRSOH DUH UHWXUQLQJ WR (FXDGRU DIWHU VWXG\LQJ DEURDG DQG UHDOLVLQJ WKDW WKH RSSRUWXQLWLHV KHUH DUH LPPHQVH :H QHHG WR PDNH sure we communicate our contemporary culture with respect to our past and belief in our future.�

48

A RT

SPOTLIGHT ON

49

APITATĂ N Quito has a thriving street art culture, which plays out across the length and breadth of the city’s FRQFUHWH SODQHV $SLWDWžQ -XDQ 6HEDVWLžQ $JXLUUH LV DQ DUWLVW RI JOREDO UHQRZQ p,WoV QRW RQO\ DERXW PDNLQJ WKH FLW\ EHDXWLIXO q KH H[SODLQV p,WoV DERXW KDYLQJ D FRQYHUVDWLRQ ZLWK WKH FLW\ DQG D dialogue with the people. Street art is democratic — it connects people to the streets. Many of us are exploring our identity on the streets with our art. The world is becoming more global; traditions DQG SRLQWV RI GLĆŹHUHQFH DUH JHWWLQJ ORVW ZLWK WLPH :H FDQ UHVFXH RXU FXOWXUDO KHULWDJH IRU \RXQJHU generations by showing it to them on the streets.â€? Çş DSLWDWDQ FRP

3

4

© Rómulo Moya Peralta — Revista Trama

16

The oil boom of the 1960s and 1970s elicited a surge in building projects to create a modern administrative heart for Quito, now a rapidly GHYHORSLQJ FDSLWDO RQ WKH JOREDO VWDJH 6SDQLVK born Ovidio Wappenstein and Ecuadorian DUFKLWHFW DQG VFXOSWRU 0LOWRQ %DUUDJ¾Q designed intriguing buildings during this period. Impressive engineering and deft use of concrete UHVXOWHG LQ EUXWDOLVW EHDXWLHV VXFK DV WKH VWRU\ (GLÆ®FR &2),(& [3] and the International Center for Communication Studies for Latin America or CIESPAL (1979) [4]. More recently, Ecuadorian architect Diego Guayasamín has created a legacy of monumental, symbolic DUFKLWHFWXUH LQ WZR VLJQLÆ®FDQW EXLOGLQJV &DSLOOD del Hombre (2002) is a cultural complex for the *XD\DVDPÊQ )RXQGDWLRQ KRXVLQJ YDVW ZRUNV E\ his uncle, the artist Oswaldo. The extraordinary UNASUR building (2014) [5], HQ for the South American Intergovernmental Foundation, is a futuristic cantilevered structure — a bold building for a bold pledge of political unity.

© Rómulo Moya Peralta — Revista Trama

ARCHITECT URE & URBA NI SM

Today, Quito’s architectural landscape is UDSLGO\ HYROYLQJ LQ WKH UHVLGHQWLDO VHFWRU WKDQNV to several projects by important architects of global renown. Alongside completed WRZHUV E\ 3KLOLSSH 6WDUFN 0DUFHO :DQGHUV and Arquitectónica, projects are currently under construction by Carlos Zapata, BIG, Jean Nouvel, and Moshe Safdie. Good design and impressively progressive sustainability credentials are shaping the future development of the city’s urban habitat and quality of life, simultaneously. As a result, Quito is one of the most exciting cities on the continent for contemporary architecture.

local firms to check out Felipe Escudero Çş IHOLSHHVFXGHUR FRP odD+ Çş RGGDUFKLWHFWV FRP

/HSSDQHQ $QNHU Çş OHSSDQHQDQNHU FRP (PLOLR /Ă?SH] Çş HPLOLR ORSH] FRP Al Borde Çş DOERUGHDUT FRP

17

ARCHITE CT URE & URBA NI SM

THE SCENE

building new horizons 8ULEH 6FKZDU]NRSI D IDPLO\ DUFKLWHFWXUDO planning, design, and construction company, is driving the urban architectural habitat of Quito forward and upward. Commissioning and ZRUNLQJ FORVHO\ ZLWK LQWHUQDWLRQDO DUFKLWHFWV including BIG, Jean Nouvel, and Moshe Safdie, they are committed to quality and innovation, responsibly planning for the future of a rapidly

growing city and its evolving population. Tall DSDUWPHQW EXLOGLQJV IRVWHU PXFK QHHGHG density in the metropolitan heart of Quito. They RĆŹHU FRQWHPSRUDU\ XUEDQ OLIHVW\OHV IRU \RXQJ ZRUOGO\ LQKDELWDQWV ZKLOH PL[HG XVH RFFXSDQWV DW VWUHHW OHYHO KHOS QHLJKERXUKRRGV Ć°RXULVK providing for communities beyond the buildings.

“AS DEVELOPERS TODAY, WE UNDERSTAND OUR RESPONSIBILITY EXTENDS BEYOND SHORT TERM

18

COMMERCIAL RETURN. WE HAVE A LONG TERM COMMITMENT TO HELP SHAPE THE URBAN SOCIAL AND CULTURAL DEVELOPMENT OF QUITO, FOR THE BENEFIT OF AS MANY PEOPLE AS POSSIBLE.� ǜ 7200< 6&+:$5=.23) 85,%( 6&+:$5=.23)

A RC HI T E CT U R E & U R BA N I S M

Š Metro de Quito

SPOTLIGHT ON

quito metro

4XLWR 0HWUR D QHZ VWRS XQGHUJURXQG OLQH UXQQLQJ NLORPHWHUV QRUWK WR VRXWK LV WKH ODUJHVW SXEOLF ZRUNV SURMHFW LQ WKH FLW\oV KLVWRU\ %XLOW E\ 6SDQLVK ƎUP $FFLRQD DQG FRVWLQJ ELOOLRQ LW UHSUHVHQWV PRUH WKDQ D Ǝ[ IRU D FLW\ LQ QHHG RI IDVWHU MRXUQH\V DQG IHZHU FDUV )HOLSH &RUUHD (FXDGRULDQ XUEDQLVW DQG FKDLU RI DUFKLWHFWXUH DW 8QLYHUVLW\ RI 9LUJLQLD DXWKRUHG p$ /LQH LQ WKH $QGHV q D ULJRURXV VWXG\ LQWR WKH SRWHQWLDO LPSDFW RI WKH PHWUR p5HGXFLQJ FRPPXWLQJ WLPHV KDV D GLUHFW FRUUHODWLRQ WR LQFUHDVLQJ *'3 q &RUUHD H[SODLQV p%XW WKLV LV D ORQJ WHUP SURMHFW WKDW FDQ shape the future development of the city, too. Globally, younger generations are choosing inner city over suburban lifestyles. The metro encourages the creation of neighborhoods, increasing density and generally raising the quality of the urban experience. It has the potential to transform how people move through the city, and also how people live here.�

infrastructure projects of note 3DUTXH %LFHQWHQDULR t D \HDU SURMHFW WR UH GHYHORS WKH IRUPHU DLUSRUW LQWR D SXEOLF SDUN and high spec convention center

%LFL4XLWR t $ FLW\ZLGH IUHH ELF\FOH ORDQ V\VWHP RI PRUH WKDQ ELNHV LQ VWDWLRQV DFURVV the city Ǻ ELFLTXLWR JRE HF TelefÊrico — one of the highest gondolas in the world, running from the city up to the Pichincha Ǻ WHOHIHULFR FRP HF

Q & A

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A RC HI T E CT UR E & U R BA N I S M

DIEZ + mULLER

GONZALO DIEZ AND FELIPE MULLER FOUNDED DIEZ + MULLER ARQUITECTOS IN 2004. THE PRACTICE IS BEHIND SOME OF ECUADOR’S MOST INTERESTING, CONFIDENT CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE. +RZ ZRXOG \RX GHVFULEH WKH DUFKLWHFWXUDO ODQGVFDSH LQ 4XLWR"

gonzalo

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There is an increasing awareness of design here, and with this comes a more enlightened client. :KHQ ZH VWDUWHG \HDUV DJR RXU Æ®UVW SURMHFW ZDV D VHOI LQLWLDWHG VPDOO GHYHORSPHQW ZLWK RSHQ SODQ DSDUWPHQWV ,W ZDV D FKDOOHQJH WR VHOO EHFDXVH SHRSOH KHUH ZHUH XVHG WR ODUJHU Æ°RRU :KDW IDFWRUV VKDSH \RXU DUFKLWHFWXUH" plans with traditional layouts. Younger people WRGD\ KDYH YHU\ GLƬHUHQW DWWLWXGHV DQG WDVWHV felipe 7KH\ KDYH WUDYHOHG VWXGLHG DQG ZRUNHG DEURDG :H WDNH D ORQJ WHUP DSSURDFK WR RXU GHVLJQ 7RR and they understand the added value of design. much architecture today is driven only by image; we design for reality and we want our buildings ,V WKHUH D JURZLQJ DUFKLWHFWXUH FRPPXQLW\" to get better with age. We use natural materials WKDW PDNH VHQVH IRU WKH FOLPDWH DQG VNLOOV RI WKH felipe ZRUNHUV KHUH )RU XV LW LV QRW DERXW LPSRUWLQJ Given the rate Quito is growing, there’s lots style. We play to the strengths of what we have of opportunities here for younger architects. DQG ZKDW ZH NQRZ ZKHWKHU WKDWoV UHVSRQGLQJ WR You don’t necessarily have the same level of WKH VSHFLÆ®F FRQWH[W RI D VLWH RU XVLQJ SDUWLFXODU FRPSHWLWLRQ WKDW \RXoG Æ®QG LQ D ODUJHU FRXQWU\ PDWHULDOV DQG FRQVWUXFWLRQ PHWKRGV ZH NQRZ The architecture community here is developing we can achieve with the highest quality. \HDU RQ \HDU DV PRUH 4XLWHÃŽDQV ZKR KDYH VWXGLHG RU SUDFWLFHG DEURDG UHWXUQ WR VHW XS +RZ LV WKH FLW\ FKDQJLQJ IURP \RXU WKHLU RZQ VWXGLRV 7UDPD PDJD]LQH LV D ORFDO SHUVSHFWLYH" architecture title that provides great context and critique of the local scene. gonzalo :H DUH EHJLQQLQJ WR VHH GLƬHUHQW SHRSOH LQ GLƬHUHQW VHFWRUV XQGHUVWDQG WKH LPSRUWDQFH RI WKLQNLQJ ORQJ WHUP )RU WRR ORQJ WKH FLW\ KDV JURZQ DQG GHYHORSHG ZLWK D VKRUW sighted, reactive agenda. When people have a proactive approach and join their plans together, it creates a fertile environment for positive coherent growth. Ǻ GLH]PXOOHU FRP

21

22

6HYHUDO KHULWDJH FUDIW VNLOOV H[LVW LQ WKH FRXQWU\oV LQGLJHQRXV communities, but they struggle to compete with cheaper imports as a viable source of income. In line with the growing global appreciation of the value craft plays in society, a young generation of Ecuadorian GHVLJQHUV LV WDNLQJ PDWWHUV LQWR WKHLU RZQ KDQGV žQJHOHV 2UWL] D JUDGXDWH IURP %HQHWWRQoV )DEULFD GHVLJQ VFKRRO LQ ,WDO\ KDV ZRUNHG on three projects with Ecuadorian artisans since returning to Quito. p+RZ FDQ ZH UH HVWDEOLVK YDOXH LQ DUWLVDQDO FUDIW"q VKH DVNV p0\ collaborations are not about celebrating humble traditions, but HPSRZHULQJ LQFUHGLEO\ VNLOOHG SHRSOH DQG KHOSLQJ D ZLGHU DXGLHQFH to understand that this is our precious design heritage. My plan is to GHYHORS GHVLJQ WRXULVP KHUH DQG HVWDEOLVK D )DLUWUDGH FHUWLƎFDWLRQ for local artisans to protect and promote our extraordinary culture.� Ǻ DQJHOHVRUWL] FRP

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leading lights in ecuadorian design The Artisan project Çş WKHDUWLVDQSURMHFWHF FRP .RQ 'RU Çş NRQ GRU FRP

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modern artisans Born in France, Mathieu de Genot has lived in Ecuador since he was six months old, and considers himself Andean. He wears many KDWV KH KDV D JDOOHU\ LQ &XPED\ž EXW KH LV also a creative director, an architect, and a GHVLJQHU p, OLNH WR H[SORUH WUDGLWLRQDO LWHPV in a contemporary way,â€? Mathieu explains, introducing one of his latest creations. p7KHVH FKDLUV DUH ZRYHQ ZLWK WUDGLWLRQDO

24

Otavalan sashes. Each chair involves four FUDIWV ZRRGZRUN OHDWKHUZRUN XSKROVWHU\ and weaving for the sashes. Together we are creating contemporary design with WUDGLWLRQDO VNLOOV VLPSO\ E\ WKLQNLQJ RI different applications for the techniques and materials that have existed around us for centuries.� Ǻ PDWKLHXGHJHQRW FRP

CRAFT & DESIGN

SPOTLIGHT ON

25

NATALIA ESPINOSA Ceramic artist Natalia Espinosa has a bustling studio and gallery in La Floresta called Perro de /R]D ZKLFK LV D FRUQHUVWRQH RI WKH ORFDO FUHDWLYH FRPPXQLW\ $ORQJVLGH D OXQFKWLPH VRXS FDIÆ ZLWK D ERRNVKRS IRFXVLQJ RQ ZRPHQoV ULJKWV DQG &DIÆ 5RVF�Q D EDU VKH RSHUDWHV ZLWK KHU KXVEDQG Natalia, who trained at the Rietveld Academy in the Netherlands, teaches ceramics classes on :HGQHVGD\V DQG )ULGD\V $ UHFHQW SURMHFW WDFNOHV DQ LVVXH FORVH WR KHU KHDUW WKH GHVWUXFWLRQ RI ORFDO EXLOGLQJV IURP V DQG V LQ /D )ORUHVWD p,oYH GRFXPHQWHG WKH GHFRUDWLYH LURQZRUN DQG JUDSKLFV IURP WKH FRQFUHWH EORFNV DQG UHSURGXFHG WKHP RQ IXQFWLRQDO FHUDPLF REMHFWV E\ ZD\ RI SUHVHUYLQJ WKHLU PHPRU\ q VKH H[SODLQV p7KHVH DUH LPSRUWDQW FXOWXUDO PRQXPHQWV \HW WKHUH LV QR ODZ WR SURWHFW WKHP 7KLV LV D V\PEROLF JHVWXUH WR PDNH VXUH WKH\ DUH QRW IRUJRWWHQ q

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the power of Olga Fisch, a Hungarian artist and Bauhaus VWXGHQW HPLJUDWHG WR 4XLWR LQ 6KH TXLFNO\ became a passionate and pioneering advocate IRU WKH FRXQWU\oV GLYHUVH IRON DUWV FROOHFWLQJ DQG collaborating to establish Ecuador’s reputation IRU DUWLVDQDO VNLOOV IDU DQG ZLGH +HU UXJV ZHUH ERXJKW E\ .HQQHG\V DQG 5RFNHIHOOHUV LQ 1HZ <RUN WKH\ KDQJ LQ 0R0$ DQG WKH 81 %XLOGLQJ 2OJDoV OHJDF\ OLYHV RQ WKDQNV WR KHU JUDQG QLHFH 0DUJDUD ZKR WRGD\ ZRUNV ZLWK DURXQG

artisans across Ecuador, building relationships, sometimes over generations, within families. Margara advises and develops products with commercial appeal, which are sold in three Olga )LVFK VWRUHV LQ 4XLWR p7KLV LV D VRFLDO SURMHFW q 0DUJDUD VD\V p,W LV DERXW WKH SURPRWLRQ RI RXU collective cultural identity. Craft is a living part RI RXU FXOWXUH t LWoV VR LPSRUWDQW WKDW VNLOOV DUH valued, and that craft is encouraged to evolve.� Ǻ ROJDƎVFK FRP

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folklore

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FO O D & DRINK

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the greenhouse of the world 7KDQNV WR LWV HTXDWRULDO VHWWLQJ (FXDGRU LV D land of plenty. Blessed with a coast, high altitude mountains, fertile volcanic plains, and cloud and rainforests, the biodiversity is extraordinarily rich. Anecdotally, the country is referred to as pWKH JUHHQKRXVH RI WKH ZRUOG q 7KH FRXQWU\oV SRVLWLRQ RQ WKH HTXDWRU PHDQV VWDEOH \HDU URXQG WHPSHUDWXUHV DQG D ODFN RI VHDVRQV

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which boosts growing capacity even further. 7KH UHVXOW LV PDUNHWV ZLWK IUXLWV YHJHWDEOHV JUDLQV DQG KHUEV LQ PLQG ERJJOLQJO\ ERXQWLIXO YDULHW\ 7KLV PDNHV IRU D IDVFLQDWLQJ IRRG culture, which is booming. à lvaro Reinoso is one RI D EULJDGH RI WDOHQWHG \RXQJ FKHIV EUHDNLQJ new ground in Quito’s restaurant scene, hungry to put the city on the global food map.

FO O D & D R I N K

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29

PACARI CHOCOLATE &DUOD %DUERWR DQG 6DQWLDJR 3HUDOWD PHW VXUÆ®QJ PDUULHG DQG IRXQGHG 3DFDUL LQ :LWK LQWHUQDWLRQDO DZDUGV VLQFH WKHQ WKH EUDQG LV DQ RUJDQLF SLRQHHU LQ WKH JOREDO LQGXVWU\ p:H ZRUN GLUHFWO\ ZLWK DURXQG IDUPHUV q &DUOD VD\V p:KHQ \RX KDYH GLUHFW FRQWDFW ZLWK \RXU IDUPHU and your consumer, you understand how to balance needs and impacts. Pacari is concerned with OLIH WKH HQYLURQPHQW FRPPXQLWLHV NQRZOHGJH ,WoV PXFK PRUH WKDQ FKRFRODWH ZH DUH LQYHVWLQJ LQ a future we’ll be happy for our granddaughters to grow up in. We are a B Corporation, so we measure RXU VXFFHVV QRW RQO\ LQ SURÆ®W WHUPV EXW LQ VRFLDO DQG HQYLURQPHQWDO LPSDFW DOVR :H DUH SURXG RI WKH IDFW WKDW ZH ZHUH WKH Æ®UVW FKRFRODWH FRPSDQ\ LQ WKH ZRUOG WR UHFHLYH ELRG\QDPLF FHUWLÆ®FDWLRQ q Ǻ SDFDUL H[SHULHQFH FRP

Q & A

30

FO O D & D R I N K

SUPERFOODS

SISTERS GIZELLA AND NATALIA GREENE OPENED SUPER FOODS IN CUMBAYĂ IN 2015, TO EDUCATE AND CONNECT CONSUMERS DIRECTLY TO INDEPENDENT FOOD PRODUCERS ACROSS ECUADOR, MAKING THE MOST OF THE EXCEPTIONAL INGREDIENTS THE COUNTRY HAS TO OFFER. TODAY, THEY PROVIDE A PLATFORM FOR MORE THAN 500 PRODUCERS AND HAVE RECENTLY OPENED A SECOND OUTPOST IN FLORESTA.

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We opened Superfoods because Ecuador is a country of superfoods, but we’re not good DW HDWLQJ WKHP :H ZDQW WR PDNH LW DV VLPSOH as possible for people to share their excellent produce and for people to buy it. Our goal is to help people not only to eat better, but also to understand the power and wider impact they can have with their choices.

,Q PDQ\ ZD\V \HV (FXDGRU ZDV WKH ƎUVW FRXQWU\ WR UHFRJQL]H WKH 5LJKWV RI 1DWXUH LQ RXU FRQVWLWXWLRQ 2XU PLVVLRQ LV WR PDNH LW HDV\ IRU SHRSOH WR PDNH SRVLWLYH FKRLFHV LQ WKHLU GDLO\ OLYHV DQG WR WKLQN RI IRRG DQG HDWLQJ DV GLUHFWO\ OLQNHG WR VRFLDO DQG HQYLURQPHQWDO FDXVHV :KDW we are doing to the planet we are also doing to ourselves. It’s an ongoing initiative — there is so PXFK ZRUN WR GR

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NATALIA :H KDYH VSDFH LQ ERWK VWRUHV IRU NLWFKHQV ZKHUH ZH KROG FODVVHV DQG FRRN IUHVK IRRG WKDW people and businesses buy. Communicating the principles of positive food production and KHDOWK\ HDWLQJ WRJHWKHU LV YLWDO :H DUH D FHUWLĆŽHG % &RUSRUDWLRQ VR ZH WDNH RXU LPSDFW RQ RXU producers, customers, and wider community very seriously. 'R \RX QRWLFH LQFUHDVHG LQWHUHVW LQ WKH OLQN EHWZHHQ IRRG DQG HQYLURQPHQW"

NATALIA Absolutely. These subjects are now mainstream and people are more socially engaged than ever. With daily news stories about obesity and depression epidemics, climate change DQG PDVV IDUPLQJ ZH FDQQRW LJQRUH WKH OLQNV between our own health and the health of the planet.

NATALIA Things are going in the right direction, but QRW IDVW HQRXJK *RYHUQPHQWV ZLOO RQO\ PDNH changes when people force them. Young people are our future. They are becoming activists EHFDXVH WKH\ NQRZ WLPH LV UXQQLQJ RXW :H PXVW support them. Çş VXSHUIRRGVHFXDGRU FRP

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terra

33 (O 3REUH 'LDEOR D IRUPHU OHJHQGDU\ MD]] nightspot for Quito’s creative community, has recently been refurbished by architect Daniel Moreno Flores. Today, it is home to Terra, and rising star chef à lvaro Reinoso. The setting is bright and verdant with contrasting industrial HOHPHQWV WKDW PDNH IRU D UHOD[HG FRQWHPSRUDU\ atmosphere. Here, Reinoso, who trained in São Paulo and Madrid before returning to Quito, reinvents local ingredients and familiar Ecuadorian dishes into playful and impressively VNLOOHG FUHDWLRQV 7KHVH LQFOXGH JROGHQEHUU\ JD]SDFKR SODQWDLQ JQRFFKL DQG RFWRSXV carpaccio bruschetta. The result is a fascinating, PXOWL VHQVRU\ H[SHULHQFH p,WoV DERXW WKH GLƏHUHQW WDVWHV RI (FXDGRUoV UHJLRQV q 5HLQRVR H[SODLQV pEXW DOVR DERXW VPHOO FRORXU WH[WXUH alongside memory, culture, and tradition.� Ǻ WHUUDUHVWDXUDQWH FRP

FO R ESTAUR O D & DRINK A NT S

ZAZU

34

Considered a vanguard of Quito’s dining VFHQH =D]X RSHQHG LQ $ PHPEHU RI Relais & Chateau since 2014, the dining room is comfortably formal without feeling hushed, catering to a clientele of local dignitaries all GUHVVHG XS IRU GLQQHU )UHQFK WUDLQHG :LOVRQ $OSDOD LV KHDG FKHI SUHVLGLQJ RYHU D FRXUVH tasting menu of national favorites, polished with classic French techniques. Highlights include JXLQHD SLJ FRQÆ®W ZLWK SHDQXW UDYLROL GXFN ZLWK ODYHQGHU DQG 6LFKXDQ SHSSHU DQG VXFNOLQJ SLJ taquitos with a salad of seven Andean grains. The extensive wine collection is housed in a GUDPDWLF IRRW KLJK WRZHU LV DOPRVW DV ELJ D draw as the food. Ǻ ]D]XTXLWR FRP

R E STAU R A N T S

NUEMA

Nuema is a welcome arrival to the Old City, occupying a narrow dining room in the Illa Hotel, with stunning views over the rooftops to the Virgin of El Panecillo. Husband and wife, $OHMDQGUR &KDPRUUR DQG 3LHGDG 6DOD]DU WUDLQHG XQGHU *DVW�Q $FXULR DQG 5HQÆ 5HG]HSL 6XFK pedigree unsurprisingly translates into food of ZRUOG FODVV VNLOO DQG LQJHQXLW\ DV LPDJLQDWLYH DV LW LV GHOLFLRXV (DFK GLVK KDV D pUXOH RI WKUHHq DSSURDFK IRFXVLQJ RQ WKUHH ưDYRUV *ULOOHG ODQJRXVWLQH LV SDLUHG ZLWK EODFN JDUOLF DQG FRFRQXW DQG GUDJRQ IUXLW ZLWK SLFNOHG URVHV DQG cacao nibs. Elsewhere, memorable moments LQFOXGH WHQGHU OODPD ƎOOHW DQG VDOWHG JUHHQ pea nougat. Ǻ LOODH[SHULHQFHKRWHO FRP FXLVLQH

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35

R ESTAUR A NT S

THE SCENE

quintessentially quiteñan

36

$OHMDQGUD (VSLQR]D LV H[HFXWLYH FKHI DQG FR owner of Somos, a recent arrival that’s already carved its place on the scene as a favored hangout for the cosmopolitan creative crowd. A graduate from the Institut de Paul Bocuse and the Basque Culinary Centre, she subsequently ZRUNHG XQGHU $ODLQ 'XFDVVH EHIRUH PRYLQJ to San Francisco, where she met her future EXVLQHVV SDUWQHU DQG KXVEDQG %DFN LQ 4XLWR Somos has become a vibrant community KRWVSRW p(FXDGRULDQ ERUQ t JOREDOO\ LQVSLUHGq is how Alejandra describes the cuisine, and it is exquisite. Alongside dining, there’s a beautifully curated store at the entrance selling quality ORFDO FUDIW D Æ®UVW Æ°RRU JDOOHU\ VSDFH DQG D VXOWU\ FRFNWDLO EDU ZLWK D GDQJHURXVO\ DWWUDFWLYH menu. She has captured not just the heart DQG VRXO RI PRGHUQ 4XLWHÃŽDQ FXOWXUH EXW WKH imagination too. Ǻ VRPRV UHVW

GAZPICHE *D]SDFKR PHHWV FHYLFKH t WZR Ecuadorian staples come together as one in a signature Somos specialty. 0DGH IURP D EDVH RI VPRNHG watermelon brine, topped with shrimp DQG SLFNOHG ZDWHUPHORQ ULQG IRU FXFXPEHU OLNH FUXQFK Mouthwateringly umami.

R E STAUR A N T S

SPOTLIGHT ON

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jan niedrau

z-group *UXSR = *HUPDQ PDYHULFN -DQ 1LHGUDX VWXGLHG KRWHO PDQDJHPHQW EHIRUH ZRUNLQJ LQ WKH OX[XU\ hospitality sector. He moved to Quito 15 years ago with his Ecuadorian wife and together they RSHQHG =D]X EULQJLQJ WR OLIH WKHLU YLVLRQ RI TXDOLW\ IRRG ZLQH GHVLJQ DQG VHUYLFH DV D FRKHUHQW H[SHULHQFH 7RGD\ WKH = *URXS KDV UHVWDXUDQWV DFURVV 4XLWR HDFK ZLWK D GLƏHUHQW IRRG FRQFHSW HYHU\ UHVWDXUDQW VWDUWV ZLWK D n=o p8QOLNH PRVW SHRSOH ZH ZHUHQoW LQWHUHVWHG WR MXVW UROO RXW RQH LGHD q -DQ VD\V p:H OLNH WR FUHDWH D GLƏHUHQW WKHPH HDFK WLPH DQG PDVWHUPLQG DOO DVSHFWV 7RGD\ the cosmopolitan boom means people have great enthusiasm for eating out, and high expectations for what a restaurant can be. The energy and demand is incredible and it’s creating a food culture of depth and diversity.� Ǻ ] UHVWDXUDQWV FRP

TO UR ISM

restored and

reVIVED 38

The hospitality landscape in Quito is growing and diversifying, celebrating local historic and contemporary culture, in place of the ubiquitously bland, homogenous business KRWHO H[SHULHQFH $ FOXWFK RI UHWURƮWWHG KLVWRULF buildings provides the most interesting places to stay. Independent historic properties, meticulously restored, are setting the agenda, from the stately opulence of &DVD *DQJRWHQD (casagangotena.com) [1] RYHUORRNLQJ 6DQ )UDQFLVFR 6TXDUH WR WKH ZRRG SDQHOHG

splendor of &XOWXUD 0DQRU (culturamanor. com) [2] in Mariscal. Smaller properties are following suit. ,OOD (illaexperiencehotel.com) [3] and &DUORWD (carlota.ec) [4] WZR IDPLO\ RZQHG townhouses in the heart of the Old City, are EULQJLQJ D GLƬHUHQW W\SH RI UHOD[HG SUHFLVLRQ WR WKH KRWHO VHFWRU 'RPHVWLF LQ VSLULW UHƮQHG in design, and with quality amenities and food, such properties simultaneously attract and cater to a new generation of culturally engaged, socially enlightened visitors.

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roque sevilla

FORMER MAYOR OF QUITO, ROQUE SEVILLA IS SOMETHING OF A RENAISSANCE MAN. HE IS THE CHAIRMAN OF ENDEAVOR ECUADOR, A CHAPTER OF THE WORLD´S LARGEST ORGANIZATION FOR THE PROMOTION OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP. HE IS ALSO CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF METROPOLITAN TOURING, AN ENVIRONMENTALLY AND SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL COMPANY, WHICH HAS CASA GANGOTENA AND MASHPI LODGE AS PART OF ITS PORTFOLIO.

40

:KDW GRHV UHVSRQVLEOH WRXULVP PHDQ WRGD\"

pride in it. Our mission is to encourage local communities to protect their land, which has roque some of the most valuable forests in the world. , WDON DERXW KDSSLQHVV DV EHLQJ WKH PRVW 90% of the staff and guides at Mashpi are from important aspect. It’s not a hollow statement; local communities. We provide education and VWULYLQJ WR RƬHU DQ H[SHULHQFH WKDW PDNHV alternative sources of employment and income people happy means striving for quality. Tourists as an alternative to logging or harvesting. are more demanding than ever and today they want transparency in their experience. :KDW LV WKH ELJJHVW FKDOOHQJH \RX IDFH" 0DNLQJ WRXULVWV KDSS\ JHQHUDWHV PRQH\ IRU local communities and services, directly and roque indirectly. Happiness is our raison d’être. To me it’s about connection. We desperately need people to connect again with themselves, each other, and their environments. We are ,Q WKH KHDUW RI WKH FORXG IRUHVW LV 0DVKSL D living in times when we all feel disconnected, UHVSRQVLEOH WRXULVP H[SHULHQFH" GLVHPERGLHG DQG VFDUHG RI RXU GHFRQWH[WXDOL]HG world. There can be no doubt that environments roque such as the cloud forest help us reconnect to Absolutely. Set in the Ecuadorian Chocó, our the things that matter. Responsible tourism goal is to preserve this fragile ecosystem connects people to life. For our generation this E\ GHYHORSLQJ D VHOI VXVWDLQLQJ VRFLDO DQG feels important, but for younger generations environmental tourism strategy — a natural it is vital. You only connect to people who are system must be naturally functioning. In the themselves connected. case of Mashpi, helping local communities feel responsible for conservation is crucial. Everyone in the area should feel they are Ǻ PHWURSROLWDQ WRXULQJ FRP SDUW RI WKH SURMHFW WKDW WKH\ RZQ LW DQG WDNH

Q & A

41

TO UR ISM

THE SCENE

keys to the streets From the Old City to the forest of Parque Metropolitano, the artists’ studios of La Floresta to the VWUHHW IRRG RI *X¾SXOR 4XLWR 6WUHHW 7RXUV LV D QHWZRUN RI IUHH ZDONLQJ WRXUV WR JHW XQGHU WKH VNLQ RI WKH FLW\ 7KLV LV QRW DERXW JDZNLQJ DW FXOWXUDO GLƬHUHQFHV WKHUH LV D G\QDPLF VRFLDO LPSHWXV KHUH WKDW VHHNV WR FRQWH[WXDOL]H WKURXJK FRPPXQLFDWLRQ DQG FRQQHFWLRQ (DFK WRXU LV OHG E\ ORFDOV in the neighborhood, who introduce stories and people. Hearing about local social and political issues, while visiting small businesses and homes, opens the doors to real lives in the city. It encourages active and engaged tourism based around people, which feels far more relevant today WKDQ IROORZLQJ DQ XPEUHOOD JD]LQJ DW PRQXPHQWV Ǻ TXLWRVWUHHWWRXUV FRP

42

TO U R I S M

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43

ÑAN MAGAZINE <RX GRQoW KDYH WR ORRN IDU LQ (FXDGRU WR JHW \RXU KDQGV RQ D FRS\ RI ®DQ 0DJD]LQH )RXQGHG E\ &ULVWLQD *XHUUHUR DQG HGLWHG E\ ,ODQ *UHHQÆ®HOG ZLWK (QJOLVK HGLWLQJ E\ 'RPLQLF +DPLOWRQ WKH EL PRQWKO\ WLWOH LV PRGHVWO\ ELOOHG DV D pELOLQJXDO WUDYHO PDJD]LQHq (DFK LVVXH IRFXVHV RQ D single geographical or thematic aspect of Ecuadorian life. Rigorously researched, beautifully photographed, meticulously reported, written and edited with care and character, it is far more WKDQ D WUDYHO PDJD]LQH WHOOLQJ EDFNSDFNHUV ZKHUH WR JR $ SXEOLFDWLRQ RI JUHDW HGLWRULDO LQWHJULW\ Ñan plays a nuanced role in the communication and transmission of culture within Ecuador for Ecuadorians: it presents and celebrates an updated vision of the country. Ǻ QDQPDJD]LQH FRP

ART

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44

Quito’s art scene, which spans world UHQRZQHG PLG FHQWXU\ SRUWUDLWLVWV DEVWUDFW expressionists, diverse print and graphic designers, and a rich palette of street art, LV YLEUDQW DQG LQIRUPDO 7KHUHoV GHƮQLWHO\ no shortage of interesting artists and, with prior warning, many are happy to open their studios to curious visitors. Narrative is rich and passionate. From examining indigenous IRONORUH WR LQWHUSUHWLQJ WKH GLYHUVH ORFDO landscapes and natural environments, artists

describe their medium’s ability to explore notions of contemporary Ecuadorian identity with bold expression. 3DXOD %DUUDJ¾Q SDXODEDUUDJDQ FRP LV D OHDGLQJ Æ®JXUH LQ WKH DUW VFHQH KHUH 6KH VWXGLHG DW 3UDWW LQ 1HZ <RUN then Paris and San Francisco, before returning WR 4XLWR 6NLOOHG LQ SULQW SDLQWLQJ FROODJH DQG textiles, she layers stories and imaginary scenarios to create beguiling scenes, which she GHVFULEHV DV pQRQ YHUEDO GHVFULSWLRQV q

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expression Another contemporary favourite, %HOÆQ 0HQD (belenmena.com) found her calling late one QLJKW DW D JDV VWDWLRQ ZKHUH VKH ZDV VWUXFN E\ the poetic beauty of moths searching for the OLJKW RI WKH PRRQ :RUNLQJ ZLWK ELRORJLVWV DQG etymologists, she has developed a powerful graphic language that gives visual form to biodiversity and conservation.

the broader picture &DUORV (FKHYHUUÊD .RVVDN Marcelo Aguirre

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ART

DOMESTIC 46

APPEAL A fascinating slice of 20 th century Ecuadorian cultural history can be understood by visiting the houses of two artists 2VZDOGR *XD\DVDPÊQ (guayasamin.org) [1] and 2VZDOGR 9LWHUL (oswaldoviteri.org) [2]. Both expressive artists of considerable achievement and renown, ERWK ZHUH SUROLƮF FROOHFWRUV WRR 7KHLU KRPHV SUHVHQW DQ RSSRUWXQLW\ WR FRQWH[WXDOL]H WKHLU ZRUN DJDLQVW D YDVW EDFNGURS RI SUH &ROXPELDQ LQGLJHQRXV IRON DUW DQG &DWKROLF LFRQRJUDSK\ In their own ways, they demonstrate the

2

DZDNHQLQJ XUJH WR JUDSSOH ZLWK D FRPSOH[ cultural and national identity in a century of extraordinary social and political change. In a restored 18 th century villa, Guyasamín’s house has been open to the public for some time (following the artist’s death in 1999), alongside the monumental Foundation Building he built to preserve his own legacy. Viteri is still living; his house and studio are open by appointment — a subtler, more nuanced and touching experience.

2

2

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1 1

FILM & MU SIC

gabriela calvache

GABRIELA IS A FILM WRITER, DIRECTOR, AND FOUNDER OF PRODUCTION COMPANY CINÉATICA FILMS, WHICH FOCUSES ON FILMS THAT PROMOTE SOCIAL CHANGE, PREDOMINANTLY WITH )(0$/( ',5(&7256 +(5 2:1 6+257 ),/06 p(1 (63(5$q $1' p7+,1*6 <28 1(9(5 6$< q +$9( %((1 :,'(/< 6&5((1(' $1' $:$5'(' */2%$//< +(5 '(%87 )($785( p/$ 0$/$ 12&+(q PREMIERED AT SXSW 2019 TO OUTSTANDING CRITICAL ACCLAIM.

50

:KHUH GLG \RX VWXG\"

gabriela I studied cinema and journalism at the San Francisco University of Quito and then did an excellent writing course in Spain. I’ve been PDNLQJ ƮOPV IRU \HDUV QRZ 7KH SUREOHP ZH have here today is that there’s no shortage of LQWHUHVWLQJ ƮOPPDNHUV LQ (FXDGRU EXW JHWWLQJ IXQGLQJ WR PDNH ƮOPV LV LQFUHGLEO\ KDUG (YHU\ \HDU ZH JUDGXDWH KXQGUHGV RI SRWHQWLDO ƮOP PDNHUV \HW IXQGLQJ t LQ VWUXFWXUH DQG YROXPH — is not developing at the same speed. As a FRPPXQLW\ ZH QHHG WR EH RUJDQL]HG WR FRQYLQFH SULYDWH DQG SXEOLF IXQGHUV RI WKH EHQHƮWV RI D WKULYLQJ ƮOP LQGXVWU\

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gabriela Film is very popular here. We see many younger people learning how to communicate through ƮOP DQG ZKHQ \RX FRQVLGHU WKH SRZHU RI RXU phones and YouTube, it can be a very democratic ZD\ RI WHOOLQJ VWRULHV 'RFXPHQWDU\ ƮOPPDNLQJ LV UHDOO\ VWURQJ KHUH PRUH WKDQ ƮFWLRQ :RPHQoV rights are a major issue here too. +RZ ZHUH \RX DEOH WR WDFNOH ZRPHQoV ULJKWV ZLWK p/D 0DOD 1RFKHq"

gabriela

Alongside telling a story of the horrifying issues and emotional consequences of human ,V WKLV DQ LQGXVWU\ ZLGH LVVXH" WUDƱFNLQJ , ZDQWHG WR SURPRWH ZRPHQ LQWR NH\ SRVLWLRQV ZLWKLQ WKH SURGXFWLRQ RI WKH gabriela crew we hired were women, the majority from To a certain degree yes — we are dealing with Ecuador. Two of our department heads were in ROG IDVKLRQHG V\VWHP 6XQGDQFH UHFHLYHV WKHLU PLG V around 40,000 entries a year but only selects 7KH HQWLUH PRGHO RI Æ®QDQFH DQG GLVWULEXWLRQ IHHOV OLNH LW LV IDOOLQJ EHKLQG WKH SURJUHVVLYH Ǻ JDEULHODFDOYDFKH FRP reality of the medium.

Q & A

51

FILM & MU SIC

A neighborhood

icon

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Ocho y Medio is more than a local cinema, it is the beating heart of the community in La Floresta, a platform for showcase and discussion, and one of the last neighborhood cinemas in South America. Founded nearly two decades ago by local producer Mariana Andrade to show (FXDGRULDQ ƮOP LW TXLFNO\ EHFDPH D KRPH IRU WKH ƮOP FRPPXQLW\ 2YHU WLPH LW KDV EHFRPH a haven for independent creativity, embracing music, dance, literature, and art, and hosting

GLVFXVVLRQV DQG IHVWLYDOV %HVLGHV WKH VHDW DQG VHDW WKHDWUHV 2FKR \ 0HGLR SURYLGHV a living room for the neighborhood, a café, a restaurant, a bar, and even a newspaper. It is a powerful force in cultural terms, and as a model for positive social urban development too. In our increasingly detached and virtual lives, this is a place that brings people together in reality to watch, listen, discuss, and argue, not just about ƮOP EXW DOVR OLIH Ǻ RFKR\PHGLR QHW

FILM & MUSIC

mariana andrade :KHQ +ROO\ZRRG FDPH WR 4XLWR LQ WR ƎOP p3URRI RI /LIHq VWDUULQJ 0HJ 5\DQ DQG 5XVVHOO Crowe), Mariana was hired as the local producer. She opened Ocho Y Medio with her earnings, and KDV EHHQ D IDLU\ JRGPRWKHU WR WKH ƎOP LQGXVWU\ LQ 4XLWR DQG WKH FRPPXQLW\ LQ /D )ORUHVWD HYHU VLQFH p7KLV LV D SURMHFW PDGH ZLWK D ORW RI ORYH q 0DULDQD H[SODLQV p%XW ZH KDYH WR NHHS ƎJKWLQJ It’s not enough just to survive; we need to promote what we stand for and what we enable. We need to communicate the important power of community. This is a space for freedom, but it is just the beginning. We need a movement.�

53

films to watch 5DWDV 5DWRQHV \ 5DWHURV t GLUHFWHG E\ 6HEDVWLžQ &RUGHUR

QuÊ tan lejos [How Much Further] — directed by Tania Hermida Feriado — directed by Diego Araujo

5DELD >5DJH@ t GLUHFWHG E\ 6HEDVWLžQ &RUGHUR

FILM & MU SIC

THE SCENE

let the music play 7XFNHG DZD\ XS LQ WKH 5XPLSDPED GLVWULFW RI 4XLWR &DVD GH OD 0Ă—VLFD ZDV D JLIW WR WKH city from wife and husband, Gisella and Hans 1HXVWDHWWHU ZKR Ć°HG 0XQLFK LQ DQG PDGH Quito their home. Passionate patrons of the arts, education, and classical music, Casa de OD 0Ă—VLFD ZDV FRPSOHWHG VRRQ DIWHU *L GLHG in 2004, as a world class concert venue for KHU EHORYHG FLW\ 3UHVLGHQW 0DUĂŠD /DXUD 7HUžQ oversees the venue and is developing ways to

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DWWUDFW \RXQJHU JHQHUDWLRQV p:KHQ ZH RSHQHG ZH ZRXOG KDYH RQFH FRQFHUW D ZHHN DQG QRZ ZH KDYH RQH HYHU\ GD\ q 0DUÊD VD\V p7KLV LV DQ incredible space, aesthetically and acoustically, for orchestral and choral concerts. We have an expanding international program and are H[SHULPHQWLQJ ZLWK GLƏHUHQW JHQUHV :H recently held a tribute to Queen (the band, not the monarch).� Ǻ FDVDGHODPXVLFD HF

FILM & MUSIC

SPOTLIGHT ON

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MATEO KINGMAN 7KH \RXQJ VLQJHU VRQJZULWHU 0DWHR .LQJPDQ WR PDNH PXVLF DV D ZD\ RI LQWHUSUHWLQJ P\ is amassing a legion of fans in Ecuador and experiences. It is music that comes from within.� JOREDOO\ WKDQNV WR KLV UK\WKPLF PHODQFKROLD Ǻ PDWHRNLQJPDQ EDQGFDPS FRP +H JUHZ XS LQ WKH (FXDGRULDQ $PD]RQ DQG KLV music fuses the sounds of his upbringing with also tune in to KLS KRS HOHFWURQLFD DQG SRS p*URZLQJ XS LQ 0DFDV LQ WKH $PD]RQ q KH H[SODLQV pLWoV D 1LFROD &UX] Ǻ QLFRODFUX] FRP powerful place. Daily life is so connected to La Rocola Bacalao nature, the forest, the rivers. It’s a simple life but Juan Fernando Velasco also quite complicated being so primal. It feels Ǻ MXDQIHUQDQGRYHODVFR FRP fundamental, rather than romantic. I started

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EnERGY

Entrepreneurial

B U S INES S

In Quito, independent and dynamic businesses are visible at the surface of city life. Young people here are driving positive change, from grass roots neighborhood initiatives to radical projects of global DPELWLRQ 6WDUW XS FXOWXUH LV IHUWLOH ZLWK D URXJK HVWLPDWH WKDW RQH in three people are entrepreneurs, and whether in food, technology, healthcare, fashion, or tourism, there’s a dynamic community of \RXQJ DFWLYLVWV NHHQ WR VKDUH WKHLU H[SHUWLVH IRU WKH FRPPRQ JRRG This is a generation that understands collaboration is more powerful WKDQ FRPSHWLWLRQ 0RUH &DUGRQD VWXGLHG IDVKLRQ PDUNHWLQJ DQG FRPPXQLFDWLRQ LQ %DUFHORQD DQG ZRUNHG DW 1LNH IRU D \HDU 6KH KDV D ZHEVLWH t /LIHVW\OH .LNL t WKDW LV D SODWIRUP DQG QRWLFHERDUG IRU KHU DFWLYLVW YLHZV RQ IDVKLRQ p)DVKLRQ LV QRW QHFHVVDULO\ VW\OH q 0RUH VD\V p,W HQFRPSDVVHV VHOI H[SUHVVLRQ FXOWXUDO LGHQWLW\ VRFLDO responsibility, circular economies, positive urban development, SROLWLFDO DJHQGDV , XVH P\ YRLFH WR UDLVH DZDUHQHVV DQG SURYRNH important discussion. Today it is clear that values have to be central to what we do in any business.� Ǻ OLIHVW\OHNLNL FRP

start-ups to keep an eye on &DIÆ 9HOH] Ǻ FDIHYHOH] FRP 0\QNDQD Ǻ P\QNDQD FRP Nativus Ǻ QDWLYXV HF

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BUSINESS

THE SCENE

adapt & reuse we have the tools and processes to do so much better nowadays. We buy surplus denim from factories and run clothing drives where people donate their old denim for a reduction on our QHZ FORWKLQJ :H ZRUN ZLWK VHDPVWUHVVHV LQ UXUDO DUHDV ZKHUH ZH NQRZ WKH ZRUNLQJ conditions and can pay fair wages directly to the women. Our mission is to positively impact the environment while addressing gender inequality DW WKH VDPH WLPH 2XU EXVLQHVV LV OHDQ HƹFLHQW and scalable.� Ǻ UHPXDSSDUHO FRP

57

Š Justin Wirtalla

"Upcycle, empower, and explore" is Remu Apparel’s motto, which translates into upcycling used denim, employing female seamstresses to turn it into outerwear that encourages people to get outdoors. Started in 2017 by three friends (computer science, business, and communications graduates), they currently VHOO DURXQG MDFNHWV D ZHHN WR FXVWRPHUV JOREDOO\ p:H ZDQWHG WR FUHDWH D EXVLQHVV that is sustainable and social simultaneously,â€? H[SODLQV FR IRXQGHU -XDQ ;DYLHU 7HUžQ p)DVKLRQ LV WKH VHFRQG PRVW SROOXWLQJ LQGXVWU\

Q & A

58

BUSINESS

impaqto

0,&+(//( $5¦9$/2ǫ&$53(17(5 $1' '$1,(/$ 3(5$/92 )281'(' ,03$472 ,1 &20%,1,1* $ &2ǫ:25.,1* 63$&( :,7+ $ 67$57ǫ UP INCUBATOR AND INNOVATION CONSULTANCY. TODAY IMPAQTO IS A THRIVING COMMUNITY OF CHANGE AGENTS, WITH FOUR OUTPOSTS IN QUITO AND SIGHTS SET ON PERU, COLOMBIA, BOLIVIA, AND BEYOND. :K\ LV 4XLWR ULSH IRU VWDUW XSV"

and environmental impact as seriously as our economic growth. Last year we opened a new michelle space in partnership with the Quito Chamber :H WDON DERXW WKH PDVVLYH SRWHQWLDO QRW MXVW KHUH RI &RPPHUFH :H FURZG IXQGHG IURP in Quito, but in emerging cities generally, where lenders globally to open our recent space there’s a growth in population and the economic in La Floresta. For our lab, we received 180 activity is higher than the national average. applications and reached all but four of them — These cities tend to have strong appreciation of 40% of these have female founders. Success smaller, family business models, combined with LV FUHDWLQJ D MRLQHG XS FRPPXQLW\ RI FKDQJH a competitive young population who are hungry agents — we don’t call them entrepreneurs — IRU FKDQJH $OO WKHVH IDFWRUV PDNH D IHUWLOH to inspire hope in younger generations that environment for entrepreneurship. positive change is possible.

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:KDW GR \RX RIIHU DW ,03$472"

daniela :H KDYH WKUHH DUPV RXU FR ZRUNLQJ VSDFHV ZKHUH SHRSOH UHQW GHVN VSDFH RU RƱFHV RXU ODEV ZKHUH ZH PHQWRU DQG DFFHOHUDWH VWDUW XSV powered by Google Developers Launchpad; and our consulting service where we partner with businesses to help them better promote :KDW DUH VRPH RI WKH VXFFHVV VWRULHV WR innovation. Partners include DHL, Urban KDYH HPHUJHG" Entrepreneurship Challenge, and Diners Club.

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michelle

There are so many, spanning so many sectors. 1RYXOLV KDV PRELOL]HG GHQWDO FDUH IRU UXUDO DUHDV LQ (FXDGRU $QXND LV D Æ®OWUDWLRQ V\VWHP XVLQJ PLFUR DOJDH WR FDSWXUH &22 and convert it into O2 that radically reduces air pollution in urban areas (the founder was crowned best female HQWUHSUHQHXU LQ /DWLQ $PHULFD :D\NDQD LV D GULQN PDGH IURP WKH PRVW FDƬHLQDWHG OHDI LQ WKH world, with four times the antioxidant properties of green tea. In just three years it’s selling on all Æ®YH FRQWLQHQWV

:H ZHUH WKH ƮUVW FHUWLƮHG % &RUSRUDWLRQ LQ (FXDGRU ZKLFK PHDQV ZH WDNH RXU VRFLDO Ǻ LPSDTWR QHW

E XCUR SIONS

EXCURSIONS

$ ZHDOWK RI FXOWXUDO H[SHULHQFHV FDQ EH KDG MXVW D IHZ KRXUV EH\RQG WKH FLW\ OLPLWV RI 4XLWR (FXDGRUoV GHQVH DQG YDULHG JHRJUDSKLFDO FRQWH[W RIIHUV PXFK WR WKH FXULRXV YLVLWRU IURP WKH FORXG IRUHVWV WR WKH YROFDQLF SODLQV EXFROLF IDUPODQGV WR KLVWRULF PDUNHW VHWWOHPHQWV 2Q WKH IROORZLQJ SDJHV ZH SURILOH WKUHH H[FXUVLRQV LQ WKUHH GLIIHUHQW GLUHFWLRQV RXW RI WKH FLW\ (DFK VKRZV D GLIIHUHQW VLGH WR (FXDGRUoV ULFK VRFLDO FXOWXUDO DQG HFRORJLFDO ODQGVFDSH

61

E XCURSIONS

O TAVA L O , A T O W N T W O H O U R S N O R T H OF QUITO IN THE IMBABURA PROVINCE, I S FA M O U S A S T H E M A R K E T P L A C E O F E C U A D O R I A N C R A F T. O T A V A L O S A R E RENOWNED IN ECUADOR FOR THEIR S K I L L , I N G E N U I T Y, A N D H A R D W O R K .

OTAVALO B A C K I N Q U I T O , P E O P L E S AY: “ I F E C U A D O R W A S R U N BY O TAVA L O S , WE WOULD BE THE RICHEST COUNTRY I N T H E W O R L D .”

OTAVALO

QUITO

63

E XCUR SIONS

ILUMAN

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2WDYDOR PLJKW EH WKH PDUNHW SODFH EXW QHDUE\ LWoV DOVR SRVVLEOH WR YLVLW WKH ZRUNVKRSV ZKHUH traditional crafts come to life. Not far from Otavalo, in nearby villages such as Iluman, industrious Otavalos are practicing new ways to NHHS WKHLU DUWLVDQDO VNLOOV DQG EXVLQHVVHV DOLYH %HOÆQoV IDPLO\ KDV EHHQ PDNLQJ VKHHS ZRRO IHOW hats by hand for 300 years, catering to more

WKDQ GLƬHUHQW FRPPXQLWLHV LQ (FXDGRU (DFK KDW FDQ WDNH XS WR WZR ZHHNV WR PDNH EXW WKH quality means they last several lifetimes — her own hat is 178 years old. Business thrives. She employs four local women, and has recently EHJXQ PDNLQJ WULYHWV DQG RYHQ JORYHV WR broaden her audience.

E XCURSIONS

HACIENDA ZULETA

66

Half an hour by car from Otavalo in the shade of the Imbabura volcano, there’s a narrow plateau of fertile land, which is home to Hacienda Zuleta. 6WLOO D ZRUNLQJ IDUP UDQFK DQG FKHHVH IDFWRU\ the handsome courtyard buildings are also a URRP KRWHO %RXJKW LQ WKH ODWH th century E\ *HQHUDO /HRQLGDV 3OD]D *XWLÆUUH] (FXDGRUoV most respected socialist president, today it is run by Margarita, his granddaughter, who hosts D PL[ RI JXHVWV HDFK QLJKW OLNH IDPLO\ )URP KRUVH WUHNNLQJ WR FRQGRU FRQVHUYDWLRQ ƎVKLQJ

WR FKHHVH PDNLQJ DQG HYHQLQJ WDVWLQJ WKLV is somewhere to experience the rural charms of Ecuador’s High Andean life. Dining at a communal table for meals completes the house SDUW\ DWPRVSKHUH p$FURVV WKH FRXQWU\ ROG families are opening their farms to the public,� 0DUJDULWD H[SODLQV p7KH\ DUH WRR FRVWO\ WR preserve and maintain only as farms. Our future is tourism of a holistic nature, which allows YLVLWRUV WR XQGHUVWDQG DQG SDUWDNH LQ RXU UXUDO cultural heritage.� Ǻ ]XOHWD FRP

67

MASHPI LODGE

QUITO

68

E XC UR S I O N S

M A S H P I L O D G E M I G H T T E C H N I C A L LY BE IN THE NORTHWEST CORNER OF THE M E T R O P O L I TA N D I S T R I C T O F Q U I T O , B U T I T F E E L S A W O R L D A W AY F R O M C I V I L I Z A T I O N , L E T A L O N E T H E C I T Y.

MASHPI LODGE

T H E 1 , 2 0 0 - H E C TA R E P R I VAT E R E S E R V E I N THE ECUADORIAN CHOCรณ WAS PURCHASED BY ROQUE SEVILLA IN 2001 TO SAVE IT F R O M D E F O R E S TAT I O N .

ĕĐąĂĚ ĎĂĔĉđĊ ĉĐĖĔĆĔ Ă #$ßēĐĐĎ ĎĐąĆēďĊĔĕ čĐąĈĆ ĕĉĂĕ DISAPPEARS INTO THE DENSE FOREST CANOPY. MASHPI IS PROOF ĕĉĂĕ ĕĐĖēĊĔĎ Ăďą ĄĐďĔĆēėĂĕĊĐď ĄĂď ĘĐēČ ĉĂďąßĊďßĉĂďą

70

E XC U R S I O N S

71

Not a single tree was felled in the construction of Mashpi, built on the site of a former saw mill. This fact goes some way to indicating the impressive rigor employed in Mashpi’s development from a conservation reserve into a tourism experience. It’s an approach that still cuts through every aspect of the project,

villages), who are your hosts in the lodge as well as the forest, is that they communicate the combination of nature and conservation with ưXHQW HDVH :KHWKHU VN\ ELNLQJ WKURXJK WKH IRUHVW WUHHWRSV WUHNNLQJ WR ZDWFK WKH PDWLQJ rituals of rare birds, swimming in one of the many waterfalls, learning about the science which is one of National Geographic’s Unique of conservation, or being guided through the Lodges of the World. Guests travel far and forest at night to spot the nocturnal creatures wide to experience this precious cloud forest that emerge, it is impossible to visit Mashpi and ecosystem, from a position of great comfort, not leave a changed person. The sheer force of VHFXUH LQ WKH NQRZOHGJH WKH\ DUH QRW KDUPLQJ nature is transformational. it. The genius of the guides (90% from local Ǻ PDVKSLORGJH FRP

E XCURSIONS

75 KILOMETERS SOUTH OF QUITO, IN THE SHADOW OF THE MAGNIFICENT ( B U T S H Y ) C O T O PA X I V O L CA N O , S I T S HACIENDA SAN AGUSTíN DE CALLO — A B U I L D I N G O F R E M A R K A B L E H I S T O R Y.

HACIENDA SAN AGUSTíN DE CALLO

QUITO

Hacienda San AgustĂ­n de Callo

73

E XCURSIONS

74 PREVIOUSLY AN INCA FORTRESS, AN AUGUSTINIAN MONASTERY AND TEMPORARY HOME TO ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT AND THE FRENCH GEODESIC MISSION WHILE THEY PLOTTED THEIR CALCULATIONS THAT THE EARTH WAS ROUND, NOT FLAT. In 1924 the Hacienda was purchased by the former president General Leonidas 3OD]D *XWLÆUUH] 7RGD\ LW LV RZQHG E\ KLV JUDQGGDXJKWHU 0LJQRQ 3OD]D D SUROLƮF HTXHVWULDQ DQG IRUPHU EXOOƮJKWHU ZKR KDV sensitively opened the Hacienda up to guests. Such a rich history seeps into the stones, ZKHWKHU LQ WKH EXOJLQJ EODFNHQHG ,QFDQ ZDOOV RI the dining room, the Spanish colonial courtyard, or the 19 th century Republican additions. This LV D SODFH RI UHPDUNDEOH EHDXW\ P\VWHU\ DQG enigmatic charm. When Mignon claps her hands

in the courtyard, a herd of llamas trot through a narrow doorway in pairs, to be fed carrots. )HHGLQJ RYHU D TXLFN FODS GLVDSSHDUV WKHP DJDLQ %HWZHHQ KLNHV XS &RWRSD[L DQG ELNH ULGHV HYHQLQJ ZDONV DURXQG WKH EHDXWLIXO gardens and lengthy dinners in the Incan dining room, it’s hard not to be spellbound by the magic here. Bedrooms (and many bathrooms) DUH HTXLSSHG ZLWK ODUJH ORJ Æ®UHV WKDW JHW VWRNHG EHIRUH EHG GULIWLQJ DVOHHS WR WKH JHQWOH FUDFNOH RI D Æ®UH LV D SULPDO H[SHULHQFH LQGHHG Ǻ LQFDKDFLHQGD FRP

75

FINAL WORD

SHAMAN TAITA SHAIDI

p:H DUH FRQQHFWHG WR WKH QDWXUDO ZRUOG WR the trees, and to the mountains. We connect barefoot to nature. When we are barefoot in nature, Mother Earth gives us energy. This is where our ancestral wisdom comes from. Humans don’t have intelligence by themselves, wisdom comes from the earth and from the universe. Wisdom is not from the mind, but in the heart.�

ADIOS

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