MU Spring 2024 by userg123

michigan Uncorked VOL. 6 NO. 1 SPRING 2024

• DIVERSITY IN WINE • DETROIT WINE SCENE • IN WITH THE NEW • WARM VS. COOL CLIMATE WINE PAIRINGS FOR SPRING

CONTENTS

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4 DIVERSITY IN WINE Wine has been on a precipice of change for some time. Meet some movers and shakers seeking diversity and inclusion in the wine industry.

8 DETROIT WINE SCENE 4

The Detroit wine scene is broad and intricate, with customers who favor Greek, Georgian, German, and Austrian wines.

13 IN WITH THE NEW Michigan marketers have ideas about how to make our wine more approachable to younger consumers.

17 WARM VS. COOL 13

Michigan consumers are familiar with cool climate wines, but how do these wines compare to their warm-weather counterparts?

20 WINES FOR SPRING MU has some suggestions for banishing the winter blues and putting some spring in your step.

22 BETWEEN THE VINES 20

Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Photo of Maryam Ahmed, co-founder of Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR I love America — but there is no country like wine country Ryan Raddatz

f America is one thing it is certainly wine country, with a diversity of terroirs and wine grapes. When it comes to the industry in general, however, diversity has taken longer to gain a foothold. In this issue of MU, we take a look at how some individuals have been working hard to make a change in the color and gender of people behind the scenes.

Emily Dockery introduces us to some of the movers and shakers seeking inclusion and diversity in the wine industry. In her indepth interview we speak to Maryam Ahmed and Simonne Mitchelson. Also, don’t miss out on Jessica Zimmer’s article, focusing on the Detroit wine scene, which is broad and intricate, with customers who favor Greek, Georgian and Austrian wines. The city is also now lled with restaurants, wine bars, and gourmet food shops that carry a wide variety of Michigan wines. Erin Marie Miller has interviewed several Michigan winemakers to get their take on how to make wine more approachable to younger consumers. Despite sales growth among wine consumers over the age of 60, younger drinkers consumed less wine in 2022 than in 2007. Michigan consumers know all about cool climate wines, but in this issue, Jack Costa examines how these wines compare with their warm-weather counterparts. Jack also provides some recommendations for spring wine tasting, including food pairings. And, as always, our in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for Michigan wines. Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Erin Marie Miller and Jessica Zimmer michiganUncorked

Vol. 6 No.1 Spring 2024

Copyright © 2024 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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Field Blend planning contributors at GRNoir

DIVERSITY IN WINE W

by Emily Dockery ine has been on a precipice of change for some time. A touchstone of this change includes a commitment

to inclusion and diversity. These changes are slowly altering the foundation of an industry cemented in a patriarchal by Jessica Zimmer and dominantly white culture. Many surely inspired by the famous quote by Shirley Chisolm, are bringing folding chairs to a table not easily welcomed to. One of the programs with the goal of increasing awareness, inclusion, and opportunities for underrepresented populations of passionate wine people, is Field Blends, the brain child of Maryam Ahmed of Maryam + Company. Maryam Ahmed is known as an industry innovator as well as a visionary, change maker, and powerhouse especially when it comes to making ideas a reality. In 2020, Ahmed co-founded the Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum, which has declared the mission of, “bringing together leaders of organizations with a core commitment to equity and diversity in the wine industry to act as a collaborative resource for support, discussion and positive change.” This valuable resource for the wine industry was highlighted when Ahmed was featured on the cover of Wine Enthusiast’s Future 40 Tastemakers 2022 issue.

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Riding the wave of success which 2022 brought to Ahmed, Field Blends launched at a serendipitous time. A time when wine buying patterns were evolving, responsibility on the wine industry was pressurizing, and women and people of color in wine were placing those folding chairs in their predestined spots, ultimately claiming space for a new culture for wine professionals and wine consumers. After venturing through the wine and grape industries of Walla Walla, Washington and the Finger Lakes of New York, Field Blends has turned their focus to the burgeoning wine scene of Michigan. Field Blends 2024 will descend upon the Northwest Michigan wine country in June, but it isn’t just a story about Traverse City wine. Committed to exploring the entire Michigan wine industry, Field Blends has invited all ve AVAs in addition to wineries, growers, and wine and hospitality professionals across the state of Michigan to have a seat at the table, no folding chairs necessary. Field Blends prides itself on making a connection with the community, the land, and the people who are behind the wines, those working the soil, and those shaping change…Michigan boasts fertile ground for creating a lifelong connection for the Field Blend group traversing to our unique wine country. This will be a life changing trip for many wine professionals embarking on Field Blends: Michigan. MU: Why Michigan for the 2024 Field Blend event? MA: Field Blends explores the intersection of wine, food, agriculture, land, and labor. As the second-most agriculturally diverse state in the U.S., I knew Michigan would be a great location for our next Field Blends adventure. Michigan is still being discovered more broadly as a wine region, and I want Field Blends to bring awareness not only to places that should be on the wine lover’s and professional’s radar, but also spotlight the people that are pushing a region forward when it comes to agri-tourism. MU: What are some of the major themes you are looking forward to exploring during Field Blends: Michigan? MA: We’ll be spending a lot of time outside, learning about tribal history, the importance of water and the surrounding lakes, sustainable farming, emerging wine styles, and the community it takes to maintain an agricultural Maryam Ahmed

area as large as Michigan. MU: How can this event positively a ect the Michigan wine industry?

MA: The Michigan wine industry has so much to o er and we want to help share that with a diverse group of travelers. The greater wine world is in search of hidden gems and Michigan is ready to burst onto the scene--Field Blends wants to be part of that. NU: Please give an overview of the trip award opportunities provided by Field Blend and their partners. MU: Field Blends Trip Awards seek to empower diverse individuals pursuing a career in the wine industry through community-building and exploration. Our awards provide an opportunity to attend Field Blends with all expenses paid. We invite our sponsors, typically regional wine and tourism organizations, to become part of our program, remain connected with trip award recipients, and build lasting connections through this special experience.

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MU: What are some of the things you look for in your trip award candidates? MA: Our trip award recipients come from all over the country which brings so much perspective to our small travel group. Our candidates have a commitment to the wine profession and understand that Field Blends isn't just a ve-day trip but a chance to build community, explore career pathways, and really get to know a region. All trip award applicants are reviewed anonymously. MU: What Michigan wines or varieties are you most looking forward to celebrating with in June? MA: I am very excited to dive into the sparkling wines of Michigan because they are a great segue into talking about the Michigan climate, styles of wine from the state, hybrid and vinifera grape growing and exploring exciting coferments and experiments. Field Blends was formed in order to bridge a gap between communities and wine industries with similar challenges, opportunities, and trajectory. Michigan clearly ts the bill. Especially when it comes to that trajectory envisioned by Field Blend Community Partner, Simonne Mitchelson. One could say that wine chose Mitchelson versus the other way around. She has experience in hospitality, viticulture, and enology in both hemispheres, is engaged with communities on social empowerment, collaborated with the wine industry at large on how to facilitate change, and has contributed to forming scholarship programs dedicated to Viticulture and Enology education. Her commitment to expanding the wine industry into the next frontier has been proven time and again. Now that Mitchelson is back in her home state of Michigan she is ready to hit the ground running to make the Michigan wine industry bigger, better, and more inclusive than it’s ever been before. MU: As a Michigander, what does Field Blends coming here mean to you? SM: The eld blends program was built to unite a group of diverse wine professionals and expand their current knowledge of domestic wine by

Simonne Mitchelson

emphasizing an under celebrated wine region. I want to see Michigan wines frequently on lists around the country because we know we have a lot to o er and contribute to writing the legacy of domestic wines. Field Blends gives us

the opportunity to showcase our wines to a diverse clientele from around the country so we can bring a piece of Michigan everywhere. That in itself is bringing a piece of a place I call home everywhere and feels so rewarding. MU: As the community partner what are some of your main responsibilities with producing this event? SM: I have and will have a hand in most parts of programming! This entails nding businesses who t the Field Blends mission, assisting Maryam with organization of itinerary to ensure our eld blenders have an impactful experience, execution of the program with Maryam of course BUT the part I am looking forward to the most? A surprise night during the trip that I get to design for the group. This trip is educational but most importantly, it’s for folks to have fun! MU: What has the planning process been like, especially as part of your homecoming? SM: We have had a LOT of meetings. There has been great interest shown by Michigan businesses who wish to

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back in November and now are still trying to nalize sponsorship so we can show strong regional support for the program. This has all been so helpful for me in the way that I’ve had the opportunity to learn about the businesses who make up our wine industry in Michigan and had the privilege of meeting some really incredible people doing work to pave the path for Michigan wine’s future. It’s been the best way to be reintroduced to Michigan after quite some time away from home! MU: What are some visions of the future you have for the Michigan wine industry? SM: We know Traverse City and the peninsulas have become big hotspots in the Midwestern summers. I’d love to see the agri-tourism industry expand beyond these pockets of NoMi in a sustainable way! I see Michigan agriculture becoming the nation’s example of uniting across agricultural sub channels and a collective moment towards regenerative farming and greater land stewardship. This is a big leap, but this state has a great responsibility to protect the unique natural resources we have, which I believe people in Michigan love and believe in, - and they want to keep it beautiful. This is how we secure that. MU: What Michigan wines or varieties are you most looking forward to celebrating with in June? SM: I think Michigan has become creative with sparkling production and it will be really fun to introduce this genre of wine to a group that likely has never tasted bubbles from here! Wineries are using both hybrids and vinifera alike to create their unique expressions. What says celebration more than sparkling? When it comes to the wine industry creating spaces authentically inclusive, sustainably equitable, and anti-performative diverse, programs like Field Blends could serve as a method for creating a narrative for underrepresented wine regions and wine professionals alike. A key to the success of a program like Field Blends is keeping education and agricultural and social responsibility centered as well as infusing it with passionate, energetic wine professionals and enthusiasts. Now is an inspiring and revolutionary era to be a part of the wine industry, as a consumer or professionally. There are more organizations than ever before dedicated to providing resources, opportunities, mentorship, and fellowship to those just entering wine and to those looking to advance their careers. Ahmed and Mitchelson are working fervently to create a legacy of amelioration and a culture of progress for Women and BIPOC lovers of wine and the regions appealing to them. Field Blend is sourcing attendees, o ering trip awards, seeking sponsors to support the event taking place in June 2024. If you are interested in learning more about the program or getting involved you can visit: www.maryamandcompany.com/ eld-blends/michigan

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.

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participate and Maryam and I were thrilled to see the response the program has had thus far. We did site visits

DETROIT WINE SCENE by Jessica Zimmer

Chaad Thomas, marketing director for Eagle Eye Brands

n the past decade, Detroit has become home to a population of wine enthusiasts who crave eastern

European wines and Michigan wineries that reimagine them. The city is also now lled with restaurants, wine bars, and gourmet food shops that carry a wide variety of Michigan wines. Michigan winemakers contribute to the excitement by traveling in with new vintages, meeting restaurateurs, shop owners, and guests for tastings. “The Detroit wine scene is broad and intricate, with customers who favor Greek, Georgian, German, and Austrian wines. Detroit consumers want wines grown in colder temperatures with high acidity and lower

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sugar. Michigan’s growing conditions are conducive to creating such wines,” said Maggie Thompson, a wine portfolio manager for Imperial Beverage Distributors, which is based in Kalamazoo. Thompson added Detroit residents like to buy Michigan wines at venues to take home. According to Bobby Vance, wine buyer for The Royce Detroit Wine Bar & Wine Shop, the Royce’s customers look for wines that are interesting and a good value, particularly bottles in the $18 to 25 range: “That’s why the majority of our shop is under $30. We’re happy to provide a variety of options from Michigan. Our audience wants to support Michigan farmers practicing sustainable agriculture,” said Vance. The story is key Restaurants and shops that can tell the story of how a wine was made have an edge. “Detroit wine enthusiasts are willing to branch out. It helps a lot to showcase Michigan wines in the city. This encourages people to visit the wineries, taste, and buy wines there too,” said Thompson. She added that Imperial Beverage hosts winemakers throughout the year at events where winemakers visit with restaurant owners: “This encourages wider distribution. If a winemaker can visit eight venues with a sales rep, that can lead to eight new accounts,” said Thompson. Chaad Thomas is marketing director for Eagle Eye Brands, which is based in Wixom. He said Detroit restaurants are interested in winemakers that do not compete with California or European cellars. “For example, one of the rst Michigan wineries from which we started to distribute to Detroit was Mari Vineyards, which is in the Old Mission Peninsula. They make wines in the Italian style, including Troglodyte Rosso and Troglodyte Bianco. These are the perfect unique vintages for a Detroit Italian restaurant like Mad Nice to o er,” said Thomas. Detroit residents also seek out “old standards” that Michigan wineries interpret in new ways, like Gamay, Sparkling Gamay, Sparkling Pét-nat, and Riesling. “Detroit embraces some of the national trends, including skin-contact wine, orange wine, and amber wine, like those from Modales Wines in Fennville. Wine enthusiasts here are moving away from rich, heavy, oaky

wines. They want fresher red and white wines on the natural side,” said Thomas.

Stadt Garden is a German-American beer and wine garden in an 1880s Gothic-Victorian mansion in midtown Detroit. Michigan wines are a good match for the venue, said Jarred Gild, beverage director for Stadt Garden. “Michigan is the Germany of America, with a cool climate, many people of Germanic heritage, and guests that welcome small batch wines like those from WaterFire Vineyards in Kewadin,” said Gild. After Gild visits a winery, he can share tips for Stadt Garden guests to plan a trip themselves. “I often give our guests recommendations for wineries to visit and wines to try. It’s good when they use social media. They let us know what new releases they’ve enjoyed at the winery. Then we get an idea of what we should order,” said Gild. Stadt Garden, which opened full time in 2022 after a few seasons of weekly pop-ups, has held classes and events featuring Michigan wines. It also added Michigan wines to its shelves for retail sale. “We want to be our guests’ wine store in Detroit,” said Gild. Diego Aliste is the wine director for Frame and FrameBAR, Hazel Park ne dining establishments with rotating menus. Hazel Park, which is approximately 10 miles from Detroit, has a metropolitan guest list. Frame currently engages in dinner collaborations with wineries from all over the state, as far west as the Torch Lake area. “We even have winemakers like Nathaniel Rose from Suttons Bay make a few barrels, in this case, a red, to our liking. Then we can o er these wines by the bottle for retail sale. Recently we’ve worked with winemakers who make juicy, light, even super delicate reds and oranges. These pair well with our creative menus,” said Aliste. Matt Newton is the wine lead for Mongers’ Provisions Detroit location. Mongers’ is a gourmet food store with locations in Berkley and Detroit. Newton said in Detroit, women between 21 and 40 years old are a target audience for wine.

Matt Newton and Billy Katz

“We carry wines from outside the state, but our venue presents an opportunity to showcase Michigan products. When we build trust with communication and samples, we can encourage pairings like

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The view from the counter

wines from 2 Lads Winery in Traverse City, goat cheeses from Idyll Farms in Northport, and Gus & Grey jams from Detroit,” said Newton. Newton added the Detroit wine scene is very social. “It is fun to see people at events, like a collaborative tasting event that Stadt Garden held in December 2023 with Folklor Wine & Cider and Modales Wines. People don’t gate keep information when it comes to wine shops, restaurants, and wineries. In addition, people from Detroit are motivated to try wines made from native grapes because they can build trust with local wine shops and restaurants,” said Newton. Detroit’s wine enthusiasts are more experimental than the average consumer, according to Nick DiFranco, one of the three co-owners of Carpe Vinum, a Detroit-based wine distributor. “We carry over 100 SKUs of wines, focused on smaller producers, family vineyards, and sustainable wines. Detroit residents are on the hunt for things that are new and exciting, including Italian sweet Syrah and un ltered blended Pét-nats,” said DiFranco. Keeping up with all of Michigan’s wines is a huge task. “At The Royce, we have up to 300 di erent bottles in the shop. We have a free tasting of four wines every Wednesday, which is open to the public. At our annual Michigan Wine Expo, we endeavor to bring awareness to the highest quality wines from the state. That’s when we hold a wine tasting showcasing 15 to 20 Michigan wines from ve to seven di erent wineries," said Kat McCormack, marketing director for The Royce. Partnering with the Pistons Collaborating with a major sports team is a path forward for one Michigan winery, Soul Squeeze Cellars. Soul Squeeze has a tasting room in Lake Leelanau and grows grapes there and in the Old Mission Peninsula. Luke Pickelman, who co-owns Soul Squeeze with his wife Faye, said the relationship with the team developed out of he and Faye’s love of basketball.

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Jarred Gild

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“The Pistons were looking for an authentic boutique Michigan brand to partner with and we t the bill. Faye and I visit Detroit as much as we can. That helped us nd time to talk things over,” said Pickelman. Soul Squeeze now has a wine bar at the Pistons Performance Center, a Pistons wine club that o ers members exclusive releases of Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, and a new Pistons and Soul Squeeze co-branded wine. Motor City Squeeze, a canned white wine, is a fruit-forward blend of 50 percent Old Mission estate grown Chardonnay and 50 percent Leelanau Peninsula AVA Pinot gris, with notes of apple and citrus. Pickelman said working with the Pistons has boosted Soul Squeeze’s popularity in downtown Detroit. “Bars and restaurants that play Pistons games and carry our wines bolster our presence. It’s grown the number of tastings we do with restaurants every year,” said Pickelman. The partnership has room to grow, as the winery and team began working together in 2022. Expanding may be a challenge. Yet Soul Squeeze is prepared to maintain its high standards. Like many Michigan wineries, it is small, with a dedicated sta . “We create wines that showcase high-quality fruit and have a personal touch. We’re glad that Detroit residents have taken to it. We are now planning how to give them more Michigan-grown wines that are authentic, well-balanced, and delicious,” said Pickelman.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.

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IN WITH THE NEW

BY ERIN MARIE MILLER

ince early last winter, the wine world has been abuzz with conversations about a looming

reckoning after several reports and polls identi ed a worrying trend: younger generations seemed to be hanging vino out to dry. Despite sales growth among wine consumers over the age of 60, younger drinkers consumed less wine in 2022 than in 2007, according to Silicon Valley Bank’s annual State of the U.S. Wine Industry 2023 report. Among younger drinkers between the ages of 21 to 29, the problem was especially pronounced, with 35 percent saying they consumed alcohol but not wine that year, compared to only 14 percent of consumers over 70 saying the same.

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But is there more to wine’s decline among younger drinkers than initially meets the eye – and is there anything industry professionals and marketers can do to turn things around and draw the attention of younger consumers back toward wine? There could be. And some Michigan wineries are getting proactive about it. Navigating around the obstacles When it comes to wine sales, today’s digital landscape has created roadblocks for wineries in unexpected ways that many outside the industry aren’t necessarily aware of – and that could add to the challenge of reaching buyers online, including those in younger cohorts. “I think one of the biggest challenges to the wine industry overall – whether you are a Boomer, a Millennial or a Xennial – is the shipping of wine,” says Claire Lepine, direct-to-consumer manager at Mawby Vineyards & Winery in Suttons Bay, Michigan, which produces sparkling wines exclusively. In a post-pandemic world, Lepine says shopping for products online, rather than in person, has become “a way of life” for many consumers. But where the internet has made shopping more convenient and helped small brands get in front of more prospective customers, it has also created challenges for wineries navigating an often-complex web of interstate laws that regulate the sale and shipment of alcohol. Because online shoppers have grown accustomed to the free shipping typically o ered by large corporations like Amazon, Lepine says marketing and selling wine online while complying with those widely varying regulations – along with the extra expenses they often create – can be burdensome for wineries trying to stay relevant in a digital world. “(Shipping is) the number one hurdle, surely, in reaching younger generations, because it's not easy. So, we’re really trying to make an impact on the shelf,” Lepine says, adding that Mawby’s broad range of price points makes its wine more accessible to consumers across generations and income levels – including younger demographics with less expendable incomes. Despite those challenges, Mawby continues to sell wine online while leaning into social media to establish relationships with younger generations on Facebook and Instagram – the latter platform being particularly useful for sharing Mawby’s chic labels and the clever names that adorn the brand’s bottles, like Sex, a Brut that has been especially popular with younger consumers. “Certainly, for a number of reasons, Sex is our bestselling wine. We get tagged in a ton of photos of people having ‘Sex’ on their 21st birthday,” Lepine says with a laugh. Beyond the fun labels and quirky names, though, Lepine says Mawby’s longstanding values and emphasis on sustainability have also helped the brand connect with younger consumers, who are often concerned about climate change, in more serious ways. “Environmental impact awareness has always been one of our key pillars, and so getting that messaging out is really important,” Lepine says.

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At Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay, social media has played a key role in attracting younger guests to its 160-acre winery estate – although nding the right platform to attract new clientele has required shifting strategies as Gen Z reached the legal drinking age in recent years. “We've really stepped up working a lot more heavily with Instagram,” says managing owner Sherri Fenton, noting the demographics of the Inn at Black Star Farms have changed in the last half-decade, shifting from guests aged 45 and older to include many young professionals. To meet the interests of that growing demographic, Black Star Farms o ers activities ranging from outdoorsy adventures to hands-on culinary experiences that appeal to younger consumers’ focus on healthy living. “We have outdoor adventure packages where people can get out in the winter on a fat tire bike or snowshoes. For the summertime, they can get out on a bike or either stand-up paddle board or kayak,” Fenton says. The winery’s tasting room has also made changes to accommodate the palates of Millennials and Gen Zers, o ering seasonal cocktails like a pumpkin spice Old-Fashioned, made with Black Star Farms’ Spirit of Apple brandy and a pumpkin spice base coupled with Michigan maple syrup, bitters and an orange peel. Other seasonal o erings include an apple dessert wine and avored alcoholic and non-alcoholic slushies for younger guests craving a cold treat while enjoying live music on the tasting room patio in warmer months and inside the Bistro Polaris during winter. Attracting young professionals for meetings and corporate retreats has also been a successful strategy for the team at Black Star Farms. “We have unique opportunities for corporate groups to come and do an o site retreat. They can bring an entire board or an entire management team and spend time at the inn, while at the same time having an opportunity at the end of the day to taste wine or for us to host a private wine pairing dinner,” Fenton says, adding that the estate is also a great place for local businesses to bring sta for outings, meetings, hikes or business breakfasts.

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Leaning into the great outdoors … and corporate retreats

Finding ways to adapt in an old, but malleable, industry Only a few miles away on the Leelanau Peninsula, younger wine drinkers are also being enticed to experience wine – and Northern Michigan – in fresh, memorable ways at Good Harbor Vineyards and Aurora Cellars. “Michiganders are very proud of Michigan-grown and made products. So, there's a lot of internal support within the state – not only Boomers, but we see a lot of Millennials and Gen Z people coming through because they're excited about coming to Traverse City and they want a new experience,” says Taylor Simpson, co-owner of Simpson Family Estates, the parent company of both wineries. With its long-established roots in Northern Michigan, Simpson says Good Harbor, which has been in operation for over 40 years, particularly enjoys the bene ts of multigenerational brand recognition – something that has helped bring in younger customers through reputation alone. “There's a lot of brand loyalty and connection to Good Harbor because it has been around for so long,” Simpson says, explaining that the brand’s approachable “Up North” vibe has always resonated with visitors, including the now-adult children of older clientele. Still, marketing e orts at Simpson Family Estates have pivoted over the years as younger generations aged and the wineries’ core consumer demographics shifted. The company has leaned into social media to build relationships and brand recognition online. In addition to Instagram and Facebook, the digital marketing manager recently launched a TikTok channel. Simpson says podcasts have also been useful in reaching consumers across all generations and educating them about wine. Although digital platforms have been useful for brand messaging, Simpson says realworld experiences are important for converting younger online followers into guests and customers. Weddings at Aurora Cellars have been successful in attracting younger clientele whose adult lives are just getting started, and dinners and educational experiences at both wineries have also helped build new relationships. “We have a few di erent ways that we are trying to home in on the experiential component of winemaking, because there is so much to learn about making wine, about growing grapes. There is a romance to it that I think can resonate with people of all ages,” Simpson says, adding that Aurora Cellars is planning to launch interactive self-guided digital tours later this year that will o er education about grape growing, winemaking and more. For Simpson, rising to the challenge of introducing younger generations to wine seems to be a welcome task – one that’s par for the course in a centuries-old industry that has seen its share of changes over time. “I think what's happening right now in the market is a healthy wake-up call,” Simpson says. “You have to be able to adapt to change.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Erin Marie Miller is a freelance journalist based in Metro Detroit. A lover of all things independent, she has written about small businesses, restaurants, nonprofits, the arts and more for publications in Michigan and California since 2014.

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Lee Lute

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Warm vs. Cool-Climate Wines

by Jack Costa f you are a “go big or go home” person who loves pitch-black co ee, rich ragu-

bolognese pasta, or a full and fruity porter beer, then warm climate wines might be for you. In general, warm climate wines are bigger, bolder, richer, and fruitier than their cool climate counterparts. If you are a “subtle is more” kind of person who enjoys green tea and sushi, maybe cooler-climate wine is up your alley. But what makes cool and warm climate wines so distinctly di erent from one another? A ects on Sugar & Acidity In warm climates, grapes have the potential to accumulate more sugar throughout the growing season. This, of course, is a statement straight from Captain Obvious. What is not as obvious, however, is what else warmer climates do to the grapes’ internal chemistry.

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acidity, the fruit tones in red wines are brighter, ranging from

major changes to occur. First, the signi cantly higher levels

tart cherries, strawberries, and sometimes wet earth. White

of fermentable sugar in these grapes allow the nished

wines often showcase avors of tart green apple, grapefruit,

wine to have potentially higher levels of alcohol (increased

green tea, lemon, and lime.

sugar = increased alcohol). As a result, wines made with higher alcohol create a wine with a much bigger and

Cool climate note: Cool climate wines with lower alcohol

bolder mouthfeel.

levels often showcase more delicate and nuanced mouthfeels, emphasizing acidity and subtlety over boldness.

Secondly, with an increase of fermentable sugars comes a

Boldness, however, does not equal more avor. Think sushi

decrease in the grapes’ acidity levels through the dilution

vs lasagna: these two foods, while very di erent in their

and break down of the acids inside the berries.

caliber of weight and richness, are equal in avor and their

Consequently, the lower acidity can diminish the crispness

overall deliciousness.

of the wine, causing it to become abby and at, similar to a ve-day-old Coca-Cola©.

Warm Climate Wine Style Flexibility Compared to cool climates, warm climates o er winemakers

Cool climate note: wines driven by acidity and less alcohol

more exibility when deciding the style of wine to create. In

are generally better for aging. Not only does acidity

warm climates, winemakers can either choose to harvest

preserve the vibrancy and freshness of a wine, but it also

grapes at minimum ripeness levels to achieve lower alcohol

acts as an antioxidant that contributes to a wine's

and higher acidity wines, or they can extend the hang time

longevity. Cabernet Sauvignon with an ABV of 13.5% could

of the fruit on the vines to develop more avors and alcohol

potentially age decades longer than a wine with 15% ABV.

levels while reducing acidity. Cool climate winemakers don’t have this luxury; they might struggle to simply reach the

Fun Fact! In the United States, wines exceeding 14% ABV

minimum sugar ripeness levels to make wines.

are allowed a leeway of 1% more or less than what is indicated on the label. This means a 14% ABV wine could

Fun Fact! Scientists categorize growing conditions by

be 13% or 15% ABV.

measuring heat accumulation, called Growing Degree Days. Cooler climate varieties require fewer GDD throughout the

Warm Climate Flavors Vs Cool Climate Flavors

season. On the other hand, warm and hot climate cultivars

Warmer climates can also have a signi cant e ect on a

will need more Growing Degree Days to reach su cient

wine’s avor pro le. Di erent compounds will form and

ripeness.

evolve when the fruit is allowed to extensively mature on the vine. Because these grapes can be picked at a higher

Warm Climate Grape Varieties

level of ripeness than cool climate fruit, this results in wines

In warm climates, you’ll

that are deep, ripe, fruity, and jammy, with darker berry

generally outnumber white varieties. This is mostly due to

avors like blueberry and blackberry. For whites, these

many white wines requiring higher acidity to be properly

tasting notes include apricot, ripe peach, and tangerine. In

balanced. Additionally, you won’t nd many early-ripening

all, these wines can be much more rounded, and

grapes like Gamay, Pinot Noir, or Müller-Thurgau in these

sometimes more rustic, than their cool climate

warm growing regions (there are some exceptions.) With

counterparts which tend to be more tart and oral.

these varieties, the fruit can reach sugar ripeness well before

nd that red grape varieties

it has su cient time to phenologically ripen (tannins and Because cooler climates yield lower alcohol and higher

ffi

color) and reach full avor developed.

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Increased sugar accumulation within the berries cause two

Cool Climate Growing Regions

Ribera del Duero (Spain): Home to Vega Sicilia, one of Spain’s

Burgundy (France): Renowned for its Pinot Noir and

leading producers of premium Tempranillo, the Ribera del

Chardonnay wines, this region is marked by cooler

Duero is renowned for crafting wines with a solid structure

temperatures and slower ripening. These wines are delicate,

and deep avors, hallmarks of warm climate wines.

yet age-able.

Barossa Valley (Australia): Syrah (the Aussies call it Shiraz) is

Champagne (France): Famous for its sparkling wines, this

the leader here, followed by the GSM (Grenache, Syrah, and

cold climate is essential to create to the high acidity and

Mourvedre) blends. These wines have savory dark fruit,

crispness needed for crafting quality bubbles.

baking spices, and dried berries. Verging on the hotter end of the spectrum, Barossa o ers great examples of what warm

Old Mission Peninsula and Leelanau Peninsula - Michigan

climate wines are all about.

(USA): Situated in the northern part of Michigan's Lower Peninsula, the surrounding water warms the air in such a

Umpqua & Rogue Valley: Southern Oregon (USA): While much

way that it becomes possible to ripen and craft cool-climate

of Oregon’s Willamette Valley is suitable for cool climate

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gewürtz and Pinot Noir.

varieties, regions of the Umpqua and Rogue Valleys are optimal for warm climate varieties. Tempranillo, Syrah,

Alsace (France): Situated in northeastern France, Alsace is

Viognier and Malbec are great examples.

known for its aromatic white wines, specializing primarily in Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. The region's cool

The Southern Rhône (France): Here you will nd as many

climate preserves the natural acidity of the grapes, making

wines as you will nd diverse geological and climatic factors.

for very zesty and food-friendly wines.

In the Southern Rhone, the famous GSM blend rules all. Finger Lakes (USA): Located in upstate New York, the Finger Lewis and Clark Valley: Idaho (USA): It’s new. It's warm. It's

Lakes region is known for its distinct New World Riesling and

k nown for its famous potatoes. Yes, ladies and

fresh Cabernet Franc.

gentlemen...Idaho. Worthy of recognition alongside any of the wine regions on this list, Idaho’s winemakers are

Marlborough (New Zealand): The New World capital of

revealing the state's remarkable potential as a premier wine-

Sauvignon Blanc is characterized by intense citrus and

growing region.

tropical fruit avors. The region’s cool climate and maritime in uence help retain the grape's natural acidity.

Mendoza (Argentina): Last but not least, Argentina! Warm, maybe even hot, this region has been producing distinctly

Which Side of the Grape Divide?

ripe, rich, and juicy examples of warm climate wines, of

If you like rich, big, hardy foods, warm-climate wines might

which Malbec is the most famous.

be your cup of tea (or wine). Warm climate wines o er an abundance of variety while still holding their signature

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

avors, texture, and overall sense of place (terroir). Those cool climate wines, however, o er a freshness and vibrancy

Jack is a writer, producer and content creator. At the age of 17, he studied under Stephen Rustle. Jack’s work has been featured in Wine Folly and the Journal among others. He is found on The Wine Heretics podcast and at wineheretics.com

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Warm Climate Growing Regions

that warmer-climate wines struggle to emulate.The next time you nd yourself at the local grocery store, grab a bottle or two from a warm and cool climate region and compare them. You will like some more than others, and the only way to nd the wines you like is by tasting them!

WINES FOR SPRING

by Jim Rink

t’s time to banish the winter blues and put some

Gewürztraminer is the wine for any fruit. Depending on

spring in your step with some food and wine pairings using

the relative sweetness level, Gewurztraminer can pair with

Michigan-grown wines, courtesy of Michigan Uncorked

fresh mango, pear, peaches, and mango. A fruit salad with

contributor Jack Costa. Jack has selected grape varietals

coconut shavings can make Gewurztraminer shine.

that are especially suitable for springtime weather: Pinot Gris pairs excellently with chicken shish kebabs and a The grassy avors and zappy acid of Sauvignon Blanc

side of roasted veggies drizzled in olive oil. (Tzatziki sauce for

complement a salad topped with roasted veggies, goat

the chicken is always recommended).

cheese, walnuts, and an Italian vinaigrette. Orange wine (Amber wine) while considered a niche wine, Your favorite Rosé, with hints of fresh roses and light

the pairing options are anything but. Think Marcona

cherries, is the perfect companion for smoked salmon,

almonds, roasted cauli ower with tahini sauce, baked

mushrooms, and shrimp.

carrots, blue cheese, or even olives.

Grüner Veltliner pairs practically with every dish in

A Michigan red that makes the list for spring wines is Pinot

existence—from fresh to spicy, sweet, or even bitter.

Noir. Since it is a cool-climate red and lighter bodied, it is

Consider pairing it with sh tacos sprinkled with lemon,

the perfect choice for spring. Pairs well with mushrooms,

vegetarian spring rolls, or prosciutto-wrapped roasted

seafood and that ubiquitous spring favorite: asparagus.

asparagus.

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Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Black Star Farms | 2022 Semi-Dry Riesling | Michigan Mouthwatering at rst swirl as stone fruit and wet stone aromas awaken the senses. Crisp and clean with juicy red apples, lemon drops, and summer fresh nectarines dancing around a nely tuned core of acidity. Finishes with nice length and a refreshing pop of Key lime. SRP: $19.50 | Food pairing: Kung pao chicken with oyster sauce www.blackstarfarms.com Black Star Farms | 2021 Gamay Noir | Leelanau Peninsula A handful of violets on the nose starts the party with this silky-smooth Gamay Noir. Decora ng the palate are avors of fresh raspberries, cherry liqueur, hints of strawberry licorice, underlying forest oor elements, and pre y savory spice peeking through on the lingering nish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Cajun shrimp penne pasta www.blackstarfarms.com Black Star Farms | 2022 Gewürztraminer | Michigan An irresis ble oral bouquet of fresh lemon-scented jasmine drives you right into the glass. Succulent avors of sunkissed white peaches, lychee, ginger snaps, lemon grass, creamy pears, and honeysuckle light up the palate. Beau fully dry and balanced with a luxurious texture and heavenly nish. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Julianna goat cheese on sourdough cros ni | www.blackstarfarms.com Brengman Brothers | 2022 Timberlee Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon | Leelanau Peninsula The alluring nose of lemon chi on pie leads to a dazzling mouthful of deliciousness. Kiwi, nectarines, a touch of barrel spice, grapefruit, and Marcona almonds interplay well with nice balancing acidity. Juicy and lively all the way through the extended nish. SRP: $35 | Food pairing: Bu ernut squash goat cheese gale e | www.brengmanbrothers.com Brengman Brothers | Crain Hill Vineyard 2019 DaGudScht Rosé Brut | Leelanau Peninsula This glorious bubble, disgorged in 2022, is cra ed in the tradi onal method. An invi ng nose of red berries and a creamy mousse set the stage. Strawberry/raspberry coulis, cranberry apple juice, and a splash of orange dance on the palate with lively acidity, and the nish is bright and memorable. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Crispy fried chicken www.brengmanbrothers.com Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery | 2022 Pinot Grigio | Old Mission Peninsula Citrus blossom on the nose takes you to a sunny summer day mood. Bright and vivacious on the palate as layers of passion fruit, lemon sorbet, tropical melon, and a pinch of lemon verbena sashay across the palate. Well balanced and as pure as it gets through the last zesty sip. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Sole Piccata | www.brysestate.com Brys Estate | 2021 Reserve Cabernet Franc Reserve | Old Mission Peninsula The provoca ve bouquet draws you in as this compelling Cab Franc approaches the nose. Lush and mul layered, it coats the palate with loganberries, Lapin cherries, graphite, fresh tobacco, and cocoa dusted blackberries, while understated oak adds further dimension. Firm tannins, deep fruit and ne balance promise age-worthiness, and the nish seems never-ending. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Herb roasted pork loin | www.brysestate.com

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Between the Vines

Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2021 Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula An aroma of delicate white owers opens to a vivid entry of Granny Smith apples and layers of citrus. Broadening on the palate you’ll nd lemon-lime notes, peach skin, hints of tropical fruit, and oyster shell salinity. Bright, juicy and perfectly dry with plenty of verve through the orange- nged nish. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Spicy crab salad www.bellagowine.com Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2018 Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula Tantalizing spice on the nose precedes a juicy citrus-splashed Bartle pear entry. Joining the creamy pear fruit are notes of coconut cream pie, Granny Smith apples, hints of honeydew melon, and aky lemon pastry joining well managed oak nuances. Finishes long with a notes of lip-smacking grilled pineapple. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Roasted chicken with a tarragon cream sauce | www.bellagowine.com Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery | 2018 Blaufränkisch | Leelanau Peninsula Rich berry scents rise from the glass with this avorsome Blaufränkisch. Finely structured with the generous fruit, rm tannins and complementary acids all in ne balance. Olallieberry, Tulare cherry and red plum fruit are accented by allspice, hints of vanilla bean and clove, and the nish is persistent. SRP: $32 | Food pairing: Italian sausage and peppers www.bellagowine.com Blustone Vineyards | 2022 Reserve Chardonnay | Leelanau Peninsula The divine fragrance of fresh baked bread wa s from the glass with this well-de ned Chardonnay. The palate displays richness while maintaining beau ful balance, while avors of apples sautêed in bu er, hints of nutmeg, honeysuckle, and lemon sorbet meld harmoniously. Finishes with extended length and vivacity. SRP: $34 | Food pairing: Lobster mac and cheese | www.blustonevineyards.com Blustone Vineyards | 2020 Pinot Noir | Leelanau Peninsula Here’s a feminine style of Pinot Noir with a lovely nge of violets on the nose. The palate boasts pleasing avors of red raspberries, cranberry jelly, Sweetheart cherries, and a sprinkling of dried herbs. Delicate and easy to qua through the fresh, clean nish. SRP: $28 sauteed Food pairing: Duck spring rolls | www.blustonevineyards.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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The take-anywhere wine cellar. Double-wall vacuum insulation locks in the perfect temp. Silicone landing pad keeps your wine bottle safe without a sound. Fits most wine, bubbly, and bomber bottles. Available at http://tinyurl.com/5mea54me | MSRP: $70

32-Bottle Wine Cooler Spacious 32-Bottle Capacity: With a generous capacity, this wine cooler allows you to curate an extensive wine collection. Whether you're a wine enthusiast or a collector, this cooler provides ample space to showcase and age your favorite wines Available at http:// tinyurl.com/2p9u8de3 MSRP: $499

Rabbit Wine Aerator This wine aerator funnel quickly and easily aerates wine with no mess or splashing. Aerating wine brings out its full avor and bouquet. The nested strainer removes sediments and solids from red wine during aeration. Easily remove from funnel to rinse o any sediments before storing away. Available at http://tinyurl.com/5n7jwn4h MSRP: $35.19

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YETI® Wine Chiller

521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI