michigan Uncorked
• • CRUSHABLE REDS • PARAMITA SOUND
• • GOVERNOR’S CUP • ART & WINE
• • MICHIGAN WINES REACH OUT
CONTENTS
www.michiganuncorked.com
4 CRUSHABLE REDS
Crushable reds are defined as young, fruit-forward wines that can be served mildly chilled and paired with foods such as wood fired pizza and grilled meat.
7 PARAMITA SOUND
Michigan wine and Detroit music operate on a shared frequency at Paramita Sound.
11 GOVERNOR’S CUP
This year’s Governor’s Cup will be handed off to Verterra Winery for their 2023 Rosé. We look at the future of wine competitions for the Michigan wine industry in this issue.
16 ART & WINE
Lorri Schreiber interviews Michigan artist Stephanie Schlatter, who captures local wineries and vineyards using the plein air style of painting.
18 MICHIGAN WINES REACH OUT
The health of Michigan’s wine industry depends on its expansion to reach customers beyond the state.
21 BETWEEN THE VINES
Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.
Cover: Photo of Andrew Backlin courtesy of Modales Wines in Fennville, Mich.
MESSAGE
www.michiganuncorked.com
I“Wine
is the only artwork you can drink.” - Luis Fernando Olaverri
FROM THE EDITOR
n the fall, Michigan turns into a veritable living canvas, with its brilliant hues and gorgeous vineyards. In this issue of MU, Lorri Schreiber interviews one Michigan artist — Stephanie Schlatter — who sits with this living canvas to capture local vineyards on stretched canvas for all posterity.
Also, Jessica Zimmer takes a look at Michigan’s “crushable reds,” the perfect late summer drink, which pairs well with foods such as wood-fired pizza and grilled meat. In addition, Jessica the health of Michigan’s wine industry, which depends on marketing and expansion to each customers beyond the state.
Emily Dockery writes about a unique venue in Detroit called Paramita Sound, which provides a curated environment for creativity, culture, and community, offering exclusively Michigan wines on their wine list. In the article, she interviews owner Andrey Douthard. Emily also reports on the top winner of this year’s Michigan Governor’s Cup and interviews Brian Lillie, president of the Michigan Wine Collaborative, on the future of wine competitions for the Michigan wine industry.
And, as always, our in-house sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her special brand of tasting notes for Michigan wines.
Cheers,
Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Lorri Schreiber and Jessica Zimmer
Copyright © 2024 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink 20020 Maple St.,Lake Ann MI 49650, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com michiganUncorked Vol. 6 No.3 Fall 2024
CRUSHABLE REDS
Left Foot Charley’s recent o ering in the category is the 2022 Red Drive, named after the street on which the tasting room is located.
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Bryan Ulbrich
“This year, Red Drive is 90% Dornfelder and 10% Blaufränkisch. The Dornfelder, a German variety, grows well on Old Mission Peninsula. The Blaufränkisch variety is from Austria originally and adds a bit of black pepper,” said McClelland. She recommends lightly chilling the deep ruby-colored wine. This tones down the oak and allows the fruit to rise up.
“2022 was a good year for this blend. It was warm and dry enough for the reds to fully ripen. The cold weather and the wild wind and rain held off in the fall. That way, we could pick when we wanted,” said McClellan.
David Bos, co-owner of BOS Wine in Elk Rapids, said his Interlochen wine made with Marquette grapes grown in Interlochen is a crushable red. Bos said growing grapes for a high-quality crushable red requires opening up the canopy “to gather as much sunshine as possible.”
“With a fresher red wine style, it’s not necessary to have as much tannins. You can also make the wine low alcohol,” said Bos. Interlochen has aromas of crushed cranberries and hibiscus. It pairs well with a charcuterie spread of fatty meats and cheeses and homemade focaccia.
Another wine Bos makes in this category is the 2022 BOS Blaufränkisch, pressed from 100% Blaufränkisch grapes grown in the Old Mission Peninsula.
“That wine has the aromas of green peppercorn, sage, and brambles. It lacks the big tannins an inch thick on the back of your tongue,” said Bos.
Andrew Backlin, winemaker for Modales Wines in Fennville, said his new crushable red is a boxed wine called Bueno Jugo. This is Spanish for “Good Juice.”
“It has a lot of red cherry and some raspberry flavor. Bueno Jugo is a blend of 50% Zweigelt and 50% Dornfelder. These are both acid-forward grapes. We ferment with native yeast and don’t use any sulfites. These have been in the tank since October and were packaged in late April. They spent only two days on the skins,” said Backlin.
Backlin describes the wine as lively, without a lot of tannins in the way.
“Bueno Jugo is a rosé drinker’s red wine. People are often caught off guard by it because it’s so light and refreshing. I highly recommend chilling it. If it’s not cold, it doesn’t have that refreshing effect,” said Backlin.
Bueno Jugo comes in a three liter box, which translates to four bottles of wine. It has a spigot for easy pouring.
“This is a quintessential juicy red wine that goes well with all your favorite summer foods, including hot dogs, hamburgers, and tacos,” said Backlin.
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David Bos
Michigan’s interpretations of a French category
Crushable reds fall into the French category of vin de soif, or “thirst wine,” comprised of wines that are low-alcohol and easy to drink. Such wines include rosés. In France, they may be made with one grape, like Grenache Syrah, or a blend of grapes, like Gamay, Grolleau Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Some winemakers use the technique of blending wine made from a fruit-forward grape like Gamay with wine made from one or more Cabernets, to mellow the tannins and highlight the finish. A vin de soif can be a white wine. Yet Michigan has concentrated on reds. Michigan’s new offerings in this category tend to be lower-priced than aged Pinot Noirs and affordable for younger wine enthusiasts.
“These wines show how Michigan is shining in its ability to fill voids in the wine world. You can find BOS Blaufränkisch on the menu of Nettare in Chicago. Cooler climate grapes tend to go well with cooler climate food,” said Bos.
Nettare’s dishes include latkes “a la TDS” with celery root mustard and apple butter, smoked salmon with dill and crème fraîche on grilled focaccia, and rhubarb tres leches cake. Nettare also carries Modales’ and Left Foot Charley’s Blaufränkisch.
McClellan said creating wines that are not intimidating or extremely fancy opens the door for winemakers to use any high-quality grapes they have on hand and try out new ideas.
“Our crushable red is a blend that changes a little bit each year. The idea is to get away from the idea that you need a $75 red wine which is high in alcohol on those hot days,” said McClellan.
Left Foot Charley’s winemaker, Bryan Ulbrich, makes Red Drive in stainless steel tanks to keep the acidity in the wine. This creates bright fruit flavors that purely expressing Michigan’s cool climate varietals.
“I’m looking for nice acidity and smooth tannins without structure or grippiness. I want this red to be silky on the palate,” said McClellan. She recommends pairing Red Drive with barbeque, salmon, pork, and spicy dishes like stir fried Asian chili beef.
“I see Michigan wineries using these cool climate grapes to help our wine industry form its own identity. These grapes really express the terroir of where we live, on the lake with that cool climate. As we explore what’s possible, we invite wine enthusiasts to keep an open mind and share their thoughts,” said McClellan.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.
by Emily Dockery
Michigan wine and Detroit music operate on a shared frequency at Paramita Sound. Nestled into a cozy space at 1517 Broadway just across from another iconic music venue in the city, the Detroit Opera House, Paramita provides a curated environment for creativity, culture, and community to thrive and to vibe.
Paramita Sound, founded in 2014 by Andrey Douthard, developed its identity within the modest venue of an abandoned house in Detroit’s West Village. Building up to what and where it is today has been a collaboration of community, vision, and passion. The wine bar/ record shop provides a place for its guests to become a community who share a common goal…to appreciate art, each other, and the surrounding city of Detroit. While music is the heart of Paramita, Michigan wine is what quenches a certain thirst among those who traffic the venue. Self proclaimed as a “Portal into Detroit’s Music,” Paramita is also a portal into something else for the residents and visitors of Detroit, who have an interest in wine.
On their website Paramita coins itself as, “the cultivation of perfection; you could say it means to always be working. Action with insight, sharing, patience, positive energy; encompasses what Paramita means to us.” This is certainly a philosophy Michigan wine can empathize with.
O
ffering exclusively Michigan wine on their wine list, Paramita has made a commitment to supporting the local winemakers and growers across Michigan wine country. Paramita leans into the attitude the city of Detroit happens to share with Michigan wine. One of extreme tenacity, grit, and creativity. Both entities have evolved their image to rival what many previously thought of both the city of Detroit and of the wine regions of Michigan.
The city of Detroit has been called a lot of things in the past including, a “post apocalyptic wasteland”. Detroit has turned that impression on its head with an enormous and effective revitalization effort. Similarly, Michigan wine had previously been deemed a region dominated by low quality sweet wines. That is another label which Michigan wine has been working tirelessly to overcome and in recent years has experienced a similar overturn of opinions with its own revitalization effort. Through increased marketing efforts including Michigan Wine Collaborative’s contribution of the Taste Michigan brand, strategic viticultural efforts, and a keen eye on wine trends on the winemaking front, Michigan wine has flipped the script and proven itself as a serious contender on the global wine stage.
Andrey Douthard has worked relentlessly building a monument to the iconic culture of Detroit music and paired it effortlessly with the wines made throughout the state of Michigan all while staying true to the community that was there at the start and that’s made Paramita
what it is today. Douthard along with his partner Sarah and their team provide a place for lovers of music, wine, and the city to feel supported and included into Paramita’s own cultural terroir as they indulge in a rotating beverage list, which obviously includes Michigan wine but also Michigan beer, domestic and imported beers, and a variety of cocktails. In addition to providing a place to cheers one another and buy a few records, Paramita regularly hosts unique programming from Open Decks which acts as an open mic night concept for DJs to perform and share their craft to Sides where participants share a single side of a record and what is means to them to drawing and coloring nights at the bar and so much more. It is a place where creativity and self expression thrive from turntable to glass.
Douthard shares his journey with us and provides some insight not only into the inspiration behind Paramita Sound but also why Detroit music and Michigan wine deserves to be accessible and celebrated.
Andrey Douthard
MU What was the main inspiration behind Paramita Sound? How did it get started and what has the journey been like?
AD The main inspirations were kind of a mix between a few different communal experiences I had coming up in Detroit.
One was the hip hop scene between 2004 - 2010 that I was a part of, which was my first access to underground Detroit subcultures. The second was my experience living downtown and being a regular at the bar for the first time circa 2009-2012, and the third was my experience being a part of the community at the Detroit Zen Center. The name Paramita reflects that culture. Paramita can be summarized as the cultivation of perfection; you could say it means to always be working. Action with insight, sharing, patience and positive energy.
In 2014, I won a business proposal contest that gave me access to our original home on 1417 Van Dyke in the West Village neighborhood, that's where this community that surrounds the shop started. For three years we kind of just treated that space like a sandbox and let records become the vehicle that allowed a scene that desperately needed a change, a new space to honestly connect.
We will be 10 years old this fall and the journey has been life changing. We're still a work in progress, we're still finding new ways to do things, still making new friendships, still working trying to deliver the consistency that has allowed Paramita to be a needed haven for so many of the people that we refer to as chosen family.
MU Why Michigan wine?
AD We always push against the grain at Paramita. We think some friction is positive in building relationships. We make conscious decisions to challenge our guests rather than cater to them. We choose to encourage them to explore new things, whether that be meeting a stranger, buying a record they’ve never heard of, or, in this case, respecting our opinion that Michigan wine is amazing and it's important that we drink a lot of it!
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Like other wine enthusiasts, we love wine from around the world just as much as anyone else. But at Paramita we believe we have a unique opportunity to use wine as another tool to build relationships. The people we serve are our friends, deeply rooted in the work we do in the music community; some have been with us since our early beginnings in 2014. Some have found us over the last few years downtown, but we've learned that the ethos around why and what music we put into hands could also be replicated with what we pour in your glass.
We have a unique opportunity at Paramita to share these amazing stories, play our part in breaking the negative connotations that exist around Michigan wine, and educate and influence an audience that the producers of wine in Michigan absolutely don’t have access to.
MU How did you discover Michigan wine and what made you driven to highlight beverages…and connect local wine and local artists?
AD Michigan wine is something that was brought to our menu originally by Anna Atanassova, who was a former long-time shop collaborator and built the original bar program here. She deserves a lot of credit for the exposure to Michigan wine in Detroit. She was one of the first people here in Detroit really trying to champion the producers from our state.
Anna departed from Paramita before our reopening after the pandemic in 2021. We were closed for 18 months during which I took over the menu and made the decision to go all in on Michigan wine.. I can be completely honest, I don't really geek out on wine like that, and I’m not all that interested in the exploration of wine. I’m more into drinking it with friends, I am into the exploration of how wine can intertwine with community and how it's a part of everyday life, the mundane moments, the casual hangout with a friend, the celebrations. To put it in perspective I was just in Sardegna and all I drank was Vermentino and Cannonau. Those grapes are from there and were heavily represented on every menu from amazing little local cafes to beach front restaurants. It was omnipresent. That's how Michigan Riesling and Gamay Noir should be at bars and restaurants all over the state.
MU How do you see the space elevating Michigan wine?
AD Not sure elevating Michigan wine is the goal, but providing an access point and carving out space for it feels like a responsible practice and it makes my bar program salient. These wines are special, rare, they have great stories, they are connected to some amazing humans, they support families and they contribute to the vibe. I don’t give a f*ck about how good a German Riesling might taste, I bet it tastes better in Mosel, and I‘d rather drink it there. For example, everyone who wants to drink skin contact wine right now, well drink Kasey Wierzba’s of Shady Lane, Pomeranz, it's perfect party wine… if you’re obsessed with whatever the idea around “natural wine is'' drink Dave Bos’ wine or Andrew Backlin from Modales wine or Bryan Ulbrich from Left Foot Charley. There's nothing to elevate here, it's already on a level, we just need to shift the way we treat our wine and will find something much more convivial and far less pretentious.
“Paramita is a gem! It's a unique and comfortable gathering place that creates a low-key springboard for music, wine, and more importantly culture and community. Andrey and Sarah are fantastic humans with a vision for the city, the community, and supporting Michigan as a whole; hence their all-Michigan wine list. They are pioneers in what they are doing not only in Detroit, but the state.” — Kasey Wierzba
The contribution and commitment Paramita Sound has made to Michigan wine is not going unnoticed. Their winery partners have a pronounced enthusiasm and excitement about being a part of the concise and immaculately curated wine list that resides amongst the records and artwork surrounding the perimeter of the building. Guests can find wines from Leelanau Peninsula to Fennville and more.
“Paramita welcomed us from day one,” said Andrew Backlin. “We have always been contrarian in our approach since we started, doing things a bit out of the mold. I feel that Paramita has the same ethos, not taking a mapped out route, but charting their own path. They are unapologetically dedicated to Michigan wine, they could have taken an easier road but that wouldn’t be as fun or satisfying.
Prior to wine I had been a full time touring musician in a hardcore band, that’s actually what drew me to winemaking; the creativity, the individuality and creating things for no other reason other than the hedonistic enjoyment of others. Paramita is the ultimate summary of what I love about wine and music.”
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Emily Dockery is the Executive Director for the Michigan Wine Collaborative, http://michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She also co-chair of the Inclusion & Expansion Committee and has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program.
2024 GOVERNOR’S CUP BY EMILY DOCKERY
As Michigan’s only statewide non-profit dedicated to supporting the Michigan wine industry, the Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC) has been tasked with providing an alternative to the Michigan Wine Competition, previously hosted by the defunct Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council (MGWIC). Under serious logistical and funding constrictions, MWC runs a lean budget and team, neither being a perfect pairing for producing a wine competition. But, still they persist.
With inspiration from Virginia and Maryland, MWC developed their own take on a Governor’s Cup Wine Competition. Soliciting support not only from Michigan wine consumers but also from legislators in Lansing. When the aforementioned MGWIC was dissolved the Michigan wine industry experienced severe losses in direct funding and support from the state.
The Michigan Governor’s Cup was an attempt to strengthen bonds with lawmakers and the state to ignite excitement around the economic contribution from both an economical and an agricultural standpoint.
In 2024, resources were yet again a barrier for the organization and the industry. It was decided that in order to maintain momentum of a statewide competition but also to conserve resources MWC would host a remote event in partnership with Beverage Testing Institute (BevTest). BevTest allowed for wineries to be able to submit wines to an accredited panel of judges with ideal facilities to taste, judge, and rate wines. Additionally BevTest provided a long timeline to ensure palate fatigue would not be an issue with the 300 wines entered from over 30 wineries.
The winery earning the highest score of all the wines entered is awarded the main Michigan Governor’s Cup, a physical trophy which resides at the winery for the entire year and is handed off to the following year’s winner. Currently the trophy is housed at St. Julian; this year it will be handed off to Verterra Winery for their 2023 Rosé.
MWC, BevTest, and Verterra provided some insight into the 2024 Michigan Governor’s Cup and the future of wine competitions for the Michigan wine industry.
Brian Lillie, president of MWC, provided perspective of the importance of a statewide wine competition in Michigan as well as what the future of marketing Michigan wine.
MU How has working with BevTest differed from Michigan wine competitions in the past?
BL Wine competitions are both time consuming and expensive to execute. Although the MWC has been around for several years, we are still needing some maturity. One of these areas is finding sustainable funding sources so that we could execute events like in-person wine competitions for the industry. Until we have funding and/or increased engagement, we are forced to seek out alternatives that will not drain our volunteers’ energy nor our bank account. BevTest has been a solution in the competition piece for us.
MU What is your vision for the future of competitions for the Michigan wine industry?
BL The future of wine competitions is a mixed bag. The consumer is not necessarily interested in what these events yield in results. This is hard for people to recognize. Nevertheless, we still require a measurement mechanism that will gauge the quality of our world-class wines against our peers. For the 75+% of wine producers who do not have wide distribution as part of the business model, a competition serves many other purposes:
1. It gives the business and its staff confidence in selling their products in the tasting room.
2. It offers an arena for industry relationships and networking.
3. It puts products in the hands of influencers that may have not otherwise experienced a brand or a product.
MU What are some things MWC is doing to continue momentum and excitement following the 2024 Michigan Governor's Cup?
BL The MWC created the Taste Michigan brand as a call-toaction. We have decided to focus on highlighting the world-class wines that our producers are crafting because this is the single lever we have that can move Michigan wine forward and lift all pieces of the supply chain in the process. More Michigan wine sales leads to more Michigan grape sales, more local label company sales, more local packaging company sales and more tasting room visits. In order to do this, we are focusing on consumer awareness events across the state. These are tastings, dinners, pop-ups, and weekend long extravaganzas.
MU How can consumers help promote Michigan wine and the winning wines of the 2024 MIichigan Governor's Cup?
BL Consumers can contribute to the local economy with every bottle of Michigan wine purchased that contains a Michigan focused appellation- look for labels that read Michigan, Leelanau Peninsula, Old Mission, Lake Michigan Shore, Fennville, or Tip of the Mitt. As of today, our industry has a $6.33 billion impact on the state of Michigan. Our focus on both social and agricultural sustainability is unlike any other. There are programs such as the DREAM wine that contribute back to communities, we are in the process of defining our own sustainability model, and continuing to create world class experiences in our tasting rooms. So please, grab a bottle, visit a tasting room, attend a Taste Michigan wine event and support Michigan wine into the future.
Following up the perspective of MWC, BevTest aided to explore how Michigan wine impacted the organization tasked with objectively rating the state’s wines.
MU Explain the tasting process BevTest utilizes to rate wines entered in the competition.
BevTest hand selected panelists that have an excellent grasp on wines from all over the United States, not just global grape varietals. Additionally, other competitions use panels of wine pros who are required to taste hundreds of products over the course of the entire day in order to avoid the singular taster model whereas we run blind tasting panels of small, focused flights of 25-30 products done every morning to keep palates and minds fresh and focused. The amount of data and attention each wine gets with us is quite substantial, especially compared to other competitions. At BevTest, after blind tasting each flight of a wine category, the panelists then discuss each wine’s flavors and aromas and offer up any constructive criticism and additional thoughts about the wine. We offer each wine a specific and individualized approach that is truly unique to the BevTest methodology. — Amy Heiar, Director of Trade Development
Brian Lillie
MU What sets BTI and the BTI process apart from other competitions?
Unlike many reviewers who offer merely a score or a medal, BevTest delves deeper, providing a comprehensive analysis from a panel of four to five expert panelists. Each wine is evaluated with meticulous care, and the insights are distilled into a detailed tasting note that offers a nuanced appreciation of its unique qualities and in this case wines from Michigan.
BevTest’s approach transcends the conventional solo taster model, instead harnessing the collective expertise of multiple professional palates. This collaborative method ensures a more balanced and refined critique, setting a higher standard in wine evaluation.
For the Michigan Governor's Cup, BevTest goes beyond review and recognition, offering wineries and producers enhanced marketing tools to elevate their presence in retail and tasting rooms. The MWC partnered with BevTest to not only receive critical acclaim but also to leverage comprehensive support to amplify Michigan wines’ distinction in the marketplace. At BevTest our job is elevating the world’s best. — Matthew Richardson, Communications & Marketing Manager
MU What was your experience with Michigan wine like prior to the MI Governor's Cup?
In searching our archive of Michigan wine reviews from 1994-2003, there were 259 wines reviewed with an average score of 82 points, which is the dead center Bronze Medal level score in our scoring system. Fast forwarding to 2024 and looking back at our reviews from the last twenty years, a different picture emerges. We saw a total of 737 wines—more wines in each decade than in the preceding set—with an average score of 87 points, the dead center Silver Medal score, which is also the average score for the rest of the U.S. wines we see, mostly from the West Coast and New York.
- Jerald O'Kennard, President
MU What are some major takeaways from the Michigan Governor’s Cup?
The biggest takeaway from tasting and being dialed into the breadth of wines from around the state for the Michigan Governor’s Cup over the past two years is the immense potential and future of the wine industry here. There are some larger producers and some truly passionate and knowledgeable boutique producers that have emerged and are starting to lead the state, much as we have seen in Oregon and New York over the past 25 years. Michigan has a rich history of agriculture and producing world class fruits, as well as a history of viticulture, but that alone does not make for world class wines.
- Andrew Moldenhauer, Director of Content & Education
Ma8hew Richardson
While Verterra enjoys the honor of winning the competition’s highest award, they also earned recognition for their Pinot Blanc and Cab/Merlot red blend. Paul Hamelin, owner of Verterra, provided insight into their accolades from the 2024 Michigan Governor’s Cup.
MU What was your immediate reaction when you discovered you won the 2024 MI Governor’s Cup?
PH I did a double/triple take re-reading the sentence.
MU What makes the 2023 Rosé special? Explain the harvest, winemaking, and flavor profile.
PH We typically make five different Rosé wines each year. Two sparkling and three still wines all from different red grapes. The still Rosé wines are from Pinot Noir, another from Cab Franc, and one from Merlot. Each harvested at a different level of ripeness and phenolics in an attempt to make them expressive on the nose and palate. All three have won some fantastic awards over the last six years but each year one Rosé seems to just be a bit more exciting than the other two, all three great, one spectacular. We personally love fruity, exciting wines with terrific acidity, which can be sipped for pure joy or paired with food all to enjoy while basking in the Summer Sun of Northern Michigan.
MU Verterra earned Gold Medals for the 2022 Pinot Blanc and 2021 Reserve Cab/Merlot blend. What makes them special?
PH We are probably the largest grower of Pinot Blanc in the state of Michigan for the past several years. We love the refreshing contrast of this European grape variety vs Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. This varietal is quite popular across Europe but has never had traction in the US, until now! The 2021 Reserve Cab/Merlot is styled after classic Saint-Émilion Bordeaux and we were quite happy to see the judges recognizing this with a score of 90. It is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
MU What are some pairings you can recommend our readers for the winning wines?
PH These wines are so versatile. We recently featured the Rosé of Merlot with pork tenderloin as the main course in a wine and food pairing dinner hosted by two top chefs in Leelanau County. We all think Rosé is delicate and can’t stand up to a hearty main course. Not our Rosé, they are all refreshing, exciting, tantalizing wines on the palate. The Pinot Blanc this time of year is a treat with salads, fish dishes like lake perch, scallops, and salmon. Our 2021 Cab Franc/Merlot is great with BBQ.
The Michigan wine industry continues to cultivate a trajectory that will surely prove to rival the coming up experience of more established regions such as California, Washington, and New York. The combined passion, creativity, skill, and tenacity of Michigan wine and its supporters should make a perfect pairing for the world to find itself thirsting for the cool climate, innovative grape growing and winemaking the Mitten state is positively brimming with. To see the full list of 2023 and 2024 Michigan Governor’s Cup winners visit MichiganWineCollaborative.com.
— Emily Dockery
Art & Wine: the Perfect Pairing for Stephanie Schlatter
by Lorri Schreiber
Flowing harmoniously with nature along cascading hillside vineyards, Stephanie Schlatter transforms a blank canvas into a stunning piece of art that tells the story of her surroundings. Schlatter, a renowned Michigan artist, has become well-known for her plein air work, the technique of painting outdoors with the landscape.
“Painting in real life makes you a better painter,” explains Schlatter. “You see the nuance of the blues, the curves of the trees, how the shadow changes when it’s closer to the tree and starts to fade as it moves out and the way the water changes as the light moves across.”
Schlatter has traveled the world to paint outdoors in beautiful places like France, Italy, Spain, Mexico and Ethiopia and says that northern Michigan is just as beautiful as anywhere she’s been. In 2015, Schlatter began her love affair with Michigan vineyards when she partnered with the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail to paint a year-long art series called Project 24. Through the project, she traveled to all of Leelanau’s vineyards, 24 of them at the time, to tell their stories through her vibrant paintings.
“Project 24 was one of my favorite all-time adventures ever,” shares Schlatter. “It gave me access to the beautiful vineyards and winemakers of Leelanau Peninsula.”
During this journey, Schlatter realized that there are great similarities between the art of winemaking and her own art. First, she and people in the wine industry share a love and appreciation for the land. For Schlatter, it was a visit to Italy when she fell in love with wine and learned the connection of wine with its terroir, a knowledge that made her greatly appreciate where wine is grown. Secondly, she connected to the winemakers who spoke about living in the seasons as her life outdoors is all about focusing on the seasons. Obviously, in Michigan the four seasons play a significant role in our lives.
Once finished with Project 24, Schlatter’s paintings were the main feature at the Traverse City Wine & Art Festival in 2016 where more than 2,000 guests enjoyed wines from roughly 40 Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula wineries. Each painting was paired with a special wine pour from its corresponding winery, connecting the wine to the art. All of Schlatter’s Project 24 series paintings have since been sold.
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Project 24 inspired Schlatter to create “On the Michigan Wine Trail,” an art series telling the stories of Michigan vineyards through her paintings.
While plein air is a major focus of her work, Schlatter explains that her studio work is as equally important as the two “inform each other.” All of her plein air pieces get enhanced in the studio. She explains that the main difference is that the studio is controlled, and she can really focus on the art, unlike outdoors where its full of wildlife distractions where you never really know what you’re gonna get.
“Sometimes I sit in a spot for so long that nature forgets I’m there. A heron will swoop in and not even care that I’m there. You actually become part of nature.”
Schlatter states that she can’t say whether she prefers plein air or studio work artistically, but her souls prefers to be outside with the wildlife by far. She also has great interactions with people, especially in popular locations like Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and Pyramid Point and is very grateful for the depth of her experiences while working.
“If you think about some of the beautiful places in northern Michigan,“ shares Schlatter, “tourists come to visit, take photos for a couple of minutes and keep walking, but I stay for hours and take it all in.”
Schlatter, who lost her dog and painting buddy, Muchacho Libre, last year, says she also makes friends with tons of amazing dogs and even keeps dog treats in her bag.
“I love dogs, but I’m not ready to get another one quite yet,” shares Schlatter, “so making new dog friends really fulfills something for me.”
When it comes to the local wines, Schlatter hopes that people think about the wine in their glass and appreciate how it got from vine to bottle - the land, the growing conditions and the people who made it happen.
Schlatter feels that one positive thing that came from the pandemic is there is so much more outdoor seating at the wineries where people can enjoy wines with views of the vineyards where they’re grown.
“It’s not just the bottle of wine,” shares Schlatter. “It’s the people, the land and the cultural experience.”
Every wine has its own story.
Lorri Schreiber is co-author of the award-winning From the Vine: Exploring Michigan Wineries and The History of Michigan Wines: 150 Years of Winemaking along the Great Lakes. She is also a freelance writer, editor and content creator who has written about Michigan’s wine industry for more than 20 years.
MICHIGAN WINES REACH OUT
by Jessica Zimmer
The health of Michigan’s wine industry depends on its expansion to reach customers beyond the state, with channels including direct-to-consumer (DTC) sales, offerings to retail stores, and relationships with bars and restaurants. In 2024, Michigan wineries are winning over customers in far-away states like New York and Georgia, as well as neighboring states like Illinois.
“Once we get more Michigan wines outside the state, we’ll start tapping into a global market. We want to share the understanding of the terroirs and the grapes grown here with a wider audience,” said Emily Dockery, executive director of Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC).
The Chicago area is an excellent place to share Michigan wine. Many Chicagoans vacation on the Michigan lakeshore and in southwest Michigan.
“There’s also been interest from vacationers in Indiana, Ohio, and New York. Word of mouth, press, and marketing come together. It helps when small groups of wineries take scouting trips and excursions for mini trade shows and wine dinners,” said Dockery.
A range of wineries gives distributors and restaurateurs more options.
“The idea is to get Michigan wine on the shelves and on the wine lists. Buyers have a variety of producers and styles from Michigan wine from which to choose. They also have the room to cycle through them all when it's time to switch up the inventory,” said Dockery.
Winemakers share their strategies
Chateau Chantal is now distributing its wines in Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and Wisconsin, as well as in Michigan.
Marie-Chantal Dalese, president and CEO of Chateau Chantal in Traverse City, said this started 10 years ago. At the time, the winery was only distributing in Michigan and Illinois.
“We started doing the legwork in areas outside our state and quickly saw what was possible,” said Dalese.
Having strong DTC sales helped. So did word of mouth from summer visitors.
“If we could distribute beyond our current markets, we’d sell in Florida, New York, and Texas. We see guests from these states visit our winery in the summer as well,” said Dalese
Chateau Chantal has seen considerable success with holiday placements. These are wines with packaging and appeal that match promotions at Meijer and other retail grocers.
“For Christmas, we have the Naughty dry red and semi-dry white wines and the Nice semi-sweet red and sweet white wines.. For Thanksgiving, there’s “Gobble Til You Wobble,” an aromatic Auxerrois that’s lush and rounded with flavors of pear and cantaloupe. It goes with everything on the Thanksgiving table. For Valentine’s Day, we have “Amour,” a sweet rosé. We do in-store tastings with customers to share more about our wines and the Chateau Chantal brand. This sets the stage for regular placements later,” said Dalese.
Sean O’Keefe, winemaker for Mari Vineyards in Traverse City, is currently selling his wines to restaurants in major urban areas, including Austin, Chicago, and New York.
“We’ve been establishing ourselves in these taste-making cities by promoting Michigan wines by the glass. Michigan is still so new to these areas that diners may not be willing to take a chance on a whole bottle,” said O’Keefe.
Michigan wines have a number of advantages in the fine dining market.
With over 18,000 members, St. Julian Winery & Distillery’s wine club is doing better than “all right.”
“We have a robust ecommerce channel that ships direct to 38 states. We navigate that with ShipCompliant’s software,” said Apollo Braganini II, president of St. Julian Winery & Distillery in Paw Paw.
“We have strong values and stories. Wine enthusiasts tend to care about farming and the people that make the wine. Riesling, which grows well here, will always be popular. Also, sparkling wines and dry light reds are the future. Michigan makes these beautiful peppery reds like Gamay and Blaufränkisch that few other areas produce,” said O’Keefe.
Blending DTC interest with distributor’s efforts
St. Julian is currently distributing wines in Georgia, Indiana, Illinois, Ohio, and Wisconsin, as well as in Michigan.
“For Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, we work with Southern Glazer’s. For Wisconsin, we work with General Beverage. In Georgia, we work with Savannah Distribution (SavDist),” said Braganini.
St. Julian is selling to Kroger and WalMart locations as well as independent liquor stores.
“We’re not focused on a ton of restaurants. In every state where we sell, we need to have “feet on the street.” That’s full-time sales people who work with our distributors hand in glove,” said Braganini.
In the Midwest, St. Julian has name recognition, especially in Chicago. Outside this region, its wines have to stand on their own.
“Sweet Revenge, a sweet Concord wine, has attractive packaging and is by far our biggest seller in all states. Other wines, like Pumpkin Spice Latte and Boom Pop, which tastes like a red, white, and blue popsicle, catch customers’ attention because they are limited time offerings,” said Braganini.
Taylor Michael, tasting room and wine club manager for 12 Corners Vineyards in Benton Harbor, said 12 Corners wines
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are shipped throughout Illinois and Indiana, as well as Michigan.
“We’re noticing the same wines sell well in all states. Beach Cottage White, a semi-sweet white wine, gets a lot of attention. This is partly because we place ads in tourismoriented publications and out-of-state magazines and commercials,” said Michael.
Having interesting labels boosts sales.
“We work with local artists in Berrien County to design the labels. We encourage them to focus on Lake Michigan, which is nearby,” said Michael.
Pictures of events such as weddings at the winery and 12 Corners’ spring, summer, and fall musical performances also contribute by pulling in viewers on social media.
“Another way to reach new customers is to take different angles on other types of advertising, including radio ads,” said Michael.
Mark Vanneste, a partner with Howard & Howard Attorneys PLLC in Royal Oak, said he believes Michigan wineries are making a great product for a fair price. He also says they are clever and creative in marketing their wines.
Yet he sees the three-tier system as a significant obstacle for Michigan wineries. This system generally restricts wine producers from selling wine to anyone other than wholesalers. The wholesalers then sell to retailers, who ultimately sell the product to consumers. Vanneste adds that small Michigan wineries trying to market out-of-state
typically see a lack of interest from out-of-state distributors and wholesalers. This is because there is not a huge push for Michigan wine outside of Michigan, relative to other wines in their respective states or from larger producers.
“This prevents any momentum for Michigan wine in other states in the first place,” said Vanneste.
There are some exceptions, like Meijer. This grocer sells Michigan wine in its Midwestern stores. This is because Meijer already has its supply chain for Michigan wine established due to its significant presence in the state.
The obstacles arising in part from the three-tier system are why industry associations like MWC are necessary. These organizations can lobby legislators to change distribution, tax, and shipping laws, making it possible for wineries to reach new markets. MWC can also help grow the industry by creating statewide marketing campaigns promoting Michigan’s wineries.
“The MWC’s ‘Taste Michigan’ and ‘Cool is Hot’ campaigns are excellent examples of that,” said Vanneste.
The Taste Michigan Invades the D campaign in particular is beneficial because it has created a model to introduce Michigan wines in big cities.
“Blitz campaigns like this get consumers used to seeing and having these wines. They encourage locals to stock up at retailers and plan trips to wine country. They also show us marketing professionals there are more opportunities to share Michigan wines nearby, like in Chicago and even Canada,” said Dockery.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Jessica Zimmer is a wine writer based in northern California. She is also a California, Florida, and New York-licensed attorney. She enjoys learning about the geology and growing seasons of different appellations.
Between the Vines
Verterra Winery | 2021 Matheson Vineyard Pinot Grigio | Leelanau Peninsula
Ellen Landis, CS, CSW
The engaging citrusy aroma leads to a bright splash of fresh squeezed lime, crisp Bosc pears, hints of just picked lemon herbs, and a thread of minerality waking up the palate. Ideally balanced and thirst-quenching with lively acidity, and the sunny finish lingers beyond the last sip. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Spanakopita | www.verterrawinery.com
Verterra Winery | 2023 Jory | Leelanau Peninsula
The beauWful floral bouquet will have you reminiscing of a stroll in a blooming botanical garden. Flavors of wild strawberries, sweet tangerines, honeysuckle, and raspberry sorbet meld in harmony on the palate with striking balancing acidity. The gentle effervescence is delighZul all the way through the refreshing finish. SRP: $25 | Food pairing: Bibb le8uce salad with fresh berries | www.verterrawinery.com
Verterra Winery | 2021 Reserve Red Cab/Merlot | Leelanau Peninsula
The nose is resplendent in violets and fresh black and blue fruits. Vivid layers of black cherries, blackberries, blueberry jam, underlying oak, and a whisper of roasted red bell pepper accented by sweet spice wrap around a firm yet approachable backbone of tannins. The texture is velvety smooth, and the finish is lip smacking delicious. SRP: $40 Food pairing: Lemon-herbed lamb loin | www.verterrawinery.com
Good Harbor Vineyards | 2021 Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula
A mouthwatering aroma wa_s from the glass as this well-balanced Riesling approaches the nose. White peaches, fresh apricots, and Cosmic Crisp apples join lemon-lime accents, a thread of minerality, and brisk acidity. Well cra_ed, it is flinty, juicy, and lovely through the revitalizing finish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Blackened swordfish tacos www.goodharborwine.com
Good Harbor Vineyards | Blanc de Blanc | Leelanau Peninsula
This Brut style bubbly is cra_ed of 100% Chardonnay rooted in David’s Vineyard. A magnificent aroma sets the tone for this juicy, electrifying bubbly. Flavors of Honeycrisp apples, sliced pineapple, creamy pears, a twist of Meyer lemon, and hints of apricot dance on the palate and remain vibrant through the spirited finish. SRP: $32 | Food pairing: Clams casino | www.goodharbor.com
Good Harbor Vineyards | 2021 Pinot Noir-Zweigelt | Leelanau Peninsula
Here’s a palate pleasing dry red wine with scents of violets and cherries at first swirl. Light on its feet and elegant with fresh red cherries, cranberry/raspberry relish, blueberries and spicy tones unfolding on the palate. Fruit, tannins and acids are in perfect balance, and it shows nice purity through the persistent finale. SRP: $45 | Food pairing: Pork tenderloin with a cherry glaze | www.goodharbor.com
Aurora Cellars | 2021 Grüner Veltliner | Leelanau Peninsula
Citrusy elements greet the nose and set the stage for the crisp and vivacious sips to follow. Oro Blanco grapefruit, Asian pears, green apple skin, and lemony flavors enhanced by a good level of acidity intertwine on the palate, and the finish is fresh and upbeat. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Grilled shrimp skewers | www.auroracellars.com
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Aurora Cellars | 2023 Pinot Noir Rosé | Leelanau Peninsula
The lemon-accented red fruit aroma is heavenly. On the palate, layers of strawberry ice, Montmorency cherries, a pinch of lemon verbena, and fresh tangerines meld with a racy backbone of acidity keeping it in fine balance, and the glistening finish is long. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Prosciu8o wrapped asparagus | www.auroracellars.com
Aurora Cellars | NV Brut Rosé | Leelanau Peninsula
This zesty Brut Rosé is composed of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir. The pale pink hue and fruit driven nose are capWvaWng. Flavors of cherry licorice bites, thimbleberries, and crisp Red Delicious apples are enhanced by an acWve bead, and a kiss of glacé cherries peeks through on the finish. SRP: $34 | Food pairing: Spinach pecorino fri8ata | www.auroracellars.com
Youngblood Vineyard | 2023 Marque8e Rosé | Michigan
Mixed forest berries and spice on the nose draw you in. Mirrored on the palate are juicy raspberries, cherries and blackberries entwined with savory plum sauce, and a twist of black pepper spice. Medium-bodied with rich flavors that are backed up by energeWc acidity, and an upli_ing finish. SRP: $20 | Food pairing: Roasted turkey | www.youngbloodvineyard.com
Youngblood Cellars | 2021 Marque8e | Michigan
Cra_ed of 100% Marque8e, this velvety smooth, fruit and spice driven red wine arouses the senses at the first whiff. CoaWng the mouth are layers of ripe plums, blackberry jam, black currants, subtle oak nuances, and fresh ground black peppercorns wrapped around supple tannins. Lush and nicely balanced with a finish that just keeps on going. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Braised short ribs | www.youngbloodvineyard.com
Youngblood Vineyard | 2022 Estate Brandistar | Michigan
Cra_ed of 75% Prairie Star/25% Frontenac Blanc and forWfied with estate grown brandy, this delicious sweet white wine is very expressive on the spice-scented nose. Mouth filling flavors of peach puff pastry, brandy poached pears, and sweet Melogold grapefruit interlace with lemon and spice, and the finish leaves you in a warm, graWfying mood. SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Cardamom poached pears | www.youngbloodvineyard.com
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com
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