TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE OF THE UMPQUA VALLEY
Summer 2020 · volume 9
TRAVEL THE HIGHWAY OF WATERFALLS THE GREAT UMPQUA FOOD TRAIL VISITORS GUIDE
36 36 Locations Locations throughout throughout Oregon Oregon and and Washington Washington
LEGENDARY PIZZA. LEGENDARY PEOPLE. When you visit any of Abby’s five Douglas County restaurants, the When you visit any of Abby’s five Douglas County restaurants, the odds are good you’ll see familiar faces such as Randy and Peggy. Our odds are good you’ll see familiar faces such as Randy and Peggy. Our legendary pizzas are only as good as the people who make them, and legendary pizzas are only as good as the people who make them, and Abby’s has some pretty fantastic team members. After all, Abby’s was Abby’s has some pretty fantastic team members. After all, Abby’s was born here. And we’ve been your legendary pizza tradition since 1964. born here. And we’ve been your legendary pizza tradition since 1964.
Peggy Feely Peggy Feely Peggy brings pizza expertise and Douglas Peggy brings pizza expertise and Douglas County charm to customers at Abby's on County charm to customers at Abby's on Diamond Lake Boulevard in Roseburg. Diamond Lake Boulevard in Roseburg.
Dine-in, Dine-in, Take-Out Take-Out or or Get Get Delivery Delivery at at abbys.com abbys.com ** * Delivery available within designated areas. * Delivery available within designated areas.
Randy Rice Randy Rice
Randy has one of the longest tenures within Randy has one of the longest tenures within the Abby's organization. He's well known in the Abby's organization. He's well known in Winston and throughout the Umpqua valley. Winston and throughout the Umpqua valley.
SUMMER 2020
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Dick Baltus
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Tyler James
CHIEF PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
DESIGNERS
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Thomas Boyd
Jonathan Cummings
Michael Williamson, Sara Kubler, Claire Osborn
Jim Hays
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Brittany Arnold, Jennifer Grafiada, Nate Hansen, B. Lane Johns, Miki Markovich, Ella Morgan, Geoff Shipley, David Shroyer, Sarah Smith, Sarah Stacey, Brian Staffield
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Robin Loznak, Miki Markovich, David Shroyer, Tim Stephanos, Michael Sullivan
PUBLISHED BY
ADAMS, HULL + MACCLUER, INC. 603 S.E. Jackson St., Roseburg, OR 97470 ahmbrands.com
UV Magazine is grateful for our advertisers and the generous support of our sponsors:
LIFESTYLE + TRAVEL MAGAZINE OF THE UMPQUA VALLEY
UV Magazine copyright 2020. All rights reserved. No part of the publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system without express written consent.
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FEATURES 36
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THE LONG YELLOW LINE
LURE OF THE UMPQUA
WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE
A UV writer shares his experience on a crew battling last summer’s devastating Milepost 97 fire.
Local fishing enthusiasts share what makes local streams so magical and, in some cases, legendary.
The Highway of Waterfalls offers convenient access to some of the most majestic cascades in Oregon.
DEPARTMENTS VISITORS GUIDE
CULTURE & HISTORY
FOOD & DRINK
8 A RIVER OF FUN RUNS THROUGH US
18 LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT
28 FRESH IDEAS
It’s tough to beat the recreation and
Nearly 50 years after they flirted at Roseburg
Local food producers get creative
scenery the Umpqua River offers.
High, a local couple finally makes the leap.
in response to COVID-19.
10 SYNCHRONIZED SWIFTS
20 BLAST FROM THE PAST
32 KRUSE CONTROL
The nightly congregation of Vaux’s
A new app takes you back to the Roseburg
For more than a century, residents of the
swifts at Umpqua Valley Arts Center
Blast via a walking video tour.
Umpqua Valley have counted on Kruse
is can’t-miss theater.
12 TRAVEL THE FOOD TRAIL
22 HAVE DRUMS, WILL TRAVEL Life as a musician got weird a few
The Great Umpqua Food Trail is your guide
months ago. Just ask Roseburg native
to the bounty of the Umpqua.
Nate Hansen.
14 DOWNTOWN DATE NIGHT
Farms for fresh produce.
24 WHAT’S IN A NAME?
OUTDOORS 58 8 HOURS ON THE ROAD
Tips for enjoying summer nights on
This issue we uncover the origins of
A Eugene resident shares her experience
the town.
names of local bodies of water.
touring the area for the first time on the back of a motorcycle.
BUSINESS
HEALTH
64 BUSINESS IS BLOOMING
70 BUSY AS A BEEKEEPER
Lavender is growing both as a business venture and an attraction.
66 GREAT ESCAPE The refurbished Lemolo Lake KOA combines rustic comfort scenic beauty for a great getaway from it all.
62 CURES FOR CABIN FEVER It’s a great way to get away, and we offer some great places to get away to.
Local beekeepers are doing their part to protect and grow the local population of these important insects.
72 TEAMING UP TO FIGHT COVID-19 Mercy Foundation coordinates efforts to collect and distribute PPE and protect local residents against COVID-19.
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 06 Editor’s Letter 03 Contributors 78 Last Word
74 READY, WILLING AND ABLE Mercy and other providers collaborate to develop a COVID-19 preparedness plan.
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E DITOR’ S LETTER
When I was a kid in the 60s, my dad was deathly afraid I was going to turn into a hippie and convinced the only way he could prevent such a mind-blowing tragedy was to make sure I got a haircut about every three days. I’m not talking your regular teen trim here; I’m talking a “money’s-worth” mowing. Dad was as protective of his money as he was his children’s virtue. So, when he’d send me off to Swede’s barber shop in southwest Portland, if I didn’t return looking two bucks lighter up top he had no problem sending me back to ask for another nickel off the sides and two bits off the back. Why am I telling you this? Because I just got a COVID-19 haircut the likes of which I haven’t seen since way back then. And before I did, my hair looked exactly like my dad was imagining it was going to look way back then (think George on the inside cover of Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club). I tried to grow a beard too, but that was more embarrassing than those return trips to Swede’s.
CONTACT ME editor@TheUVlife.com
My point – and I do have one – is these are strange times, are they not? I grew my hair out because I didn’t have a choice, then I cut it shorter than ever just to cut down on the number of times I had to make that choice again. And, who knows, when we finally do emerge from this I might just keep it short. Because it doesn’t look nearly as stupid as it did when I was a teen (thanks Regina). We’re going to get out of this, and when we do we will have learned a lot of new ways to do things and a lot of new things about ourselves. And we will have gained a new appreciation for the things we’ve possibly taken for granted for so long. Like the incredible natural world that surrounds us. So put a mask on and get out it in. And get a haircut. Small businesses could use your help.
Dick Baltus Editor in Chief
ABOUT OUR COVER PHOTO “After researching Google Maps, I decided the Rim Village area at Crater Lake National Park could provide a good vantage point for viewing and shooting the comet Neowise, so on the evening of July 16 my wife, son and I left our home near Elkton for the drive up the North Umpqua Highway. As we neared the lake and encountered numerous vehicles driving down from the rim, I thought, “Don’t they know what they’re going to miss?” (Neowise isn’t expected back in our neck of the solar system for about 6,000 years.) “I set up my tripod just a few yards from our parking spot not far from the village. The sky darkened and the comet immediately became visible, as if a curtain had been raised, in the northwestern 6
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sky tucked neatly between the horizon and Big Dipper. I took a series of long-exposure photos with my Nikon DSLR camera and a 24-70mm zoom lens. It was important for me to show the amazing landscape of the lake along with the comet in the sky, so I varied my exposures and framing. Satisfied and suitably awestruck, we arrived back home at about 2 a.m.” Contract photographer Robin Loznak is a regular contributor to UV. The photo that graces our cover also was picked up by The Wall Street Journal, ABC News and MSN News, as well as newspapers in Germany, Vietnam and other countries.
A RIVER OF FUN RUNS THROUGH US A GUIDE TO BOUNTY HUNTING SYNCHRONIZED SWIFTS A DATE NIGHT IN ROSEBURG
EXPERIENCE
ROSEBURG ROSEBURG A RIVER OF FUN RUNS THROUGH US / A GUIDE TO BOUNTY HUNTING / SYNCHRONIZED SWIFTS / A DATE NIGHT IN ROSEBURG EXPERIENCE
A RIVER OF FUN RUNS THROUGH US Roseburg isn’t the only Oregon town settled around a beautiful river, but not many can beat the recreation and scenery offered by the famed Umpqua. Story by Brian Staffield Photos by Jonathan Cummings
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ffering 111 miles of versatile water play and unmatched scenery, the mighty Umpqua River is one of only four rivers in Oregon that travels from high up in the Cascades, through the valleys and eventually to the Pacific Ocean. The South Umpqua River runs right through the heart of Roseburg while the North Umpqua River meanders westward from the Cascades. They converge just west of Roseburg at River Forks Park. The versatility and characteristics of the Umpqua River make it a destination for sightseers, recreationalists and anglers year-round. When the heat is on in Roseburg, the Umpqua River is one of the most popular cooling-off destinations around. The river serves as a natural waterpark offering floating, rafting, swimming, sunbathing, picnicking and millions of gallons of uncrowded fun. Each section of the river has its own personality and neighboring landscape. At higher altitudes, there are palettes of greens, frothy white rapids, steelhead-filled jade pools and lush banks covered with bigleaf maples, sword ferns and old-growth Douglas firs. Further down the river the river scenery changes to pastoral hills of farmland and spread-out neighborhoods.
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While formed by thousands of years of geological events and ever-changing water levels, some sections of the North Umpqua almost seem designed specifically for whitewater rafting, The river doesn’t boast the Class 4 and 5 rapids found in destinations with heavier rafting traffic, like the Deschutes and Rogue, but it does offer the most rapids per mile among Northwest rivers. And it features enough technical rapids to ensure a thrilling ride. For a more leisurely trip down the North Umpqua, the Amacher Park to River Forks Park river float is a favorite of local rafters. The trip typically takes about five hours by innertube or inflatable kayak and features a few rapids, some of the technical variety, and plenty of peacefully slow sections. Non-rafters will find swimming holes all along the Umpqua rivers and their tributaries. Colliding Rivers Park in Glide is a popular site for those looking to cool off or to see the only spot in Oregon where a river meets almost head on with its tributary, in this case the North Umpqua and Little rivers, respectively. Whether your preferred mode of river transport is an inflatable flamingo or a rubber raft, rest assured the Umpqua River offers plenty of ways to float your boat.
EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
BACK TO NATURE
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EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
A GUIDE TO BOUNTY HUNTING When you’re traveling, it’s not always easy to discover and enjoy the food and drink bounties of an unfamiliar town. Unless you’re in Roseburg and jump on the Great Umpqua Food Trail. Story by Brian Staffield Photos by Jonathan Cummings
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ne of the best things about travel is the opportunity it offers to discover and sample local food, beverages and culinary experiences in general.
But sometimes the challenge of finding hidden gems can wear you down enough that you settle for a seat in a booth in the same chain restaurant you could find in Anytown, America. In Roseburg, the Great Umpqua Food Trail will help you avoid that fate. It’s a map to the culinary treasures of the Umpqua
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Enjoy breakfast at Steamboat Inn.
Valley (featuring suggested routes and itineraries) that will lead you straight to local restaurants, wineries, eateries, breweries, farms and other local artisans that take full advantage of the harvest of the valley. And that harvest is abundant. Our temperate climate and rich soil types contribute to a diversity of crops that include berries, nuts, melons, apples, plums and, of course, the grapes and hops that have earned the Umpqua Valley its reputation as an outstanding destination for wine and beer tasting. The Great Umpqua Food Trail includes several farms that offer U-pick produce for anyone wanting to harvest their own fruit and vegetables. (Due to COVID-19 some farms have updated their public picking procedures, so calling ahead is a good idea.) You’ll find plenty of produce stands as well. So what’s in season, when? You’ll find cherries, blueberries, peaches and apricots in July, and some will carry over into August, which also brings some early apples, pears, plums, zucchini, green beans, tomatoes and cucumbers. When the weather cools in September and October look for pumpkin, corn, hazelnuts and winter squash. Of course, if you’re more in the mood to just relax and have someone serve you great food, much of it from local sources, you’ll find plenty of great local restaurants on the Great Umpqua Food Trail as well. Whether you’re a local or visitor, great fresh produce and local restaurants and wineries are among the many natural wonders of the Umpqua Valley, and you can find them easily with the help of the Great Umpqua Food Trail.
EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
A WEEKEND ON THE TRAIL Here’s one way to enjoy the Great Umpqua Food Trail. Start your adventure at the Umpqua Valley Farmers’ Market in Roseburg. On a typical Saturday, the market features local honey, pasta makers and other local artisans, in-season produce, fresh baked goods, food trucks, local meat, live plants and much more. In a single trip you’ll be able to take home breakfast, lunch and possibly dinner ingredients for a week.
Sample Backside Breweries local beers.
Now you’re off to any of the nearby wineries. Foon Estate Winery is just a short drive from the farmers’ market. From there you’re a short hop over the South Umpqua River to Season’s Wine Cellar and Oran Mor Artisan Mead, the ideal place to try a flight of meads produced with local honey and other ingredients. Next stop is Growing Miracles Lavender Farm where you’ll find lavender-based items and hazelnuts. Swing by JosephJane Winery for more sampling or to pick up a bottle of lavenderinfused wine (see related article page 65). From there, enjoy the scenic drive along the majestic Umpqua River out to Elkton where a stop at Tomaselli’s Pastry Mill & Café for lunch and pastries is a must. Grab your food to go, if you wish, and enjoy them at one or all of three in-town wineries— River’s Edge, Brandborg and Bradley Vineyard. Another great dining option, Outpost Café, is inside another local attraction, the Elkton Butterfly Pavilion.
Wine tasting at River's Edge.
By now, it’s probably time to head back to Roseburg. On the way, be sure to stop by Estill Farms near Drain and grab some fresh or frozen blueberries. Once back in downtown Roseburg, swing by Umpqua Sweets and Treats and grab some tasty and sweet souvenirs to bring back to friends and family. Then it’s a short walk around the block to Old Soul Pizza, where the outstanding wood-fired pizza pairs nicely with local beer or wine. If you’re looking for truly unique accommodations for your weekend, pre-book a stay at legendary Steamboat Inn (thesteamboatinn.com) and enjoy a spectacularly scenic 40-mile drive along the North Umpqua River. Sunday morning, enjoy a full breakfast menu accompanied by local coffee from Takelma Roasting. Over breakfast, plan another full day along the Great Umpqua Food Trail. Maybe pick your own produce at Brosi’s Sugar Tree Farm or grab a growler for home from Two-Shy Brewery or Backside Brewery. Given the options are almost limitless, your best plan at this point may be to just slow down and spend another night in the Umpqua Valley. Create your own weekend food trail itineraries or follow one of three suggested journeys at greatumpquafoodtrail.com. Explore other Oregon Food Trails at oregonfoodtrails.com.
U-pick produce at Brosi's.
Share and show off your Great Umpqua Food Trail selections by hashtagging your social media posts #ExperienceRoseburg and #GreatUmpquaFoodTrail.
BACK TO NATURE
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EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
SYNCHRONIZED SWIFTS On late summer-nights, the annual migration of Vaux’s swifts culminates in a can’t-miss spectacle as thousands of birds make their precision dives into the old chimney at the Umpqua Valley Arts Center. Story by Brittany Arnold Photo by Michael Sullivan
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t is at once a romantic, summer-sunset sway and a scene slightly reminiscent of Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds.
The Vaux’s swift migration is one of the most unique birding events in western North America—including Roseburg where anywhere from 2,000 to 6,000 of the small birds descend at dusk from their synchronized ballet in the sky into an old chimney on the grounds of the Umpqua Valley Arts Center. Vaux’s swifts make a very long migration from the Pacific Northwest and Canada to Central and South America for the winter, and in spring head back north, making roosting pit stops along the way.
The mysteriously-coordinated large, feathery mass twists and turns in a cyclone as a few birds at a time trickle down the chimney to claim their spot. According to the Umpqua Valley Audubon Society, the swifts enjoy roosting in old-growth coniferous snags but are often found making do with industrial chimneys that were built around 1940.
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chirping black dots, dancing and swirling. The widely dispersed swifts then begin to tighten in a tornado-like cluster above the chimney. The crowd erupts like fireworks as the first swifts dive into the chimney. “It’s like the start horn of the race,” someone says. After that moment, a mysteriously-coordinated large, feathery mass continues to twist and turn in a cyclone as a few birds at a time trickle down the chimney to claim their spot – clinging to the vertical surface. Although the Vaux’s swift is a songbird, most closely related to the hummingbird, the swift cannot perch. It must cling vertically, using its stiff tail like a kickstand to finally rest. After about five minutes, and once a few latecomers have made their entry, the birds settle in as the audience applauds. At sunrise, the swifts spill out of the chimney like water from a broken main. On Friday evenings during migration month, a sea of spectators is usually found spread out across the parking lot of The Clay Place parking lot in the Fir Grove section of Stewart Park. The Vaux’s swift migration typically makes its way through Roseburg at the end of August and lasts through September. These Friday evenings also can feature music, education and other family activities.
Fortunately for Umpqua Valley residents and visitors, the art center chimney serves as a favorite seasonal hotel for the migrating birds. Their nightly show is not to be missed and is definitely worthy of a late summer road trip.
The Umpqua Valley Audubon Society highly suggests visitors come early in September for the best showing of birds. The society, in partnership with the Roseburg Parks and Recreation Division, hosts the swift watch, and Audubon members are onsite to answer questions.
The show starts as the audience watches quietly, eyes glued, awaiting the first bird to descend. The sky is sprinkled with little,
For more information, visit umpquaaudubon.org.
UV . SUMMER 2020
EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
THE SEASONAL OCCURRENCE OF THE VAUX’S SWIFT IN THE CENTRAL UMPQUA VALLEYS
A HOBBY FOR THE TIMES Getting outside and exploring nature is good for the mind and body, especially during high-stress times like we are in. Birding can be one of the best ways to engage the whole family in the outdoors without needing much experience or equipment. Just pack a picnic and some binoculars. Homework isn’t required either. The Audubon Bird Guide app has got you covered. Available for iPhones and Androids, this free app is a complete field guide to more than 800 species of North American birds. Features include an easy bird ID to help you identify a bird, information on birds and a bird-sightings tracking feature. The Umpqua Valley is a great place to start, or continue, your birding adventure.
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EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
DATE NIGHT IN DOWNTOWN ROSEBURG Whether you’re a visitor or a local, downtown offers a variety of options for couples in search of a romantic evening. If COVID-19 restrictions require you to put off your plans, keep these recommendations handy for later. Story by Brittany Arnold Photos by Jonathan Cummings
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arm summer date nights call for outdoor lounging, mellow tunes and a cold local craft brew or glass of Umpqua Valley wine.
Downtown Roseburg’s small-town charm radiates romance and sweet simplicity. The tree-lined sidewalks are highly stroll-worthy and lined with a variety of food and beverage destinations within a few blocks. Whether local or a visitor, it’s a great way to sample the flavors, fun and fresh air that the Umpqua Valley has to offer.
STAY
Faith Lookabaugh mixing it up at Salud Brewery.
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Bell Sister Flats is a relatively new addition to downtown that tops the list of date-worthy places to stay. Located above street level, the Flats are two gorgeously renovated suites that provide luxury, location, history and privacy.
EXPERIENCE ROSEBURG
Old Soul Pizza
True Kitchen and Bar
Brix rooftop and lounge (right)
BITES & BREW For breakfast, head to the Bagel Tree Café, a favorite of locals that serves up divine bagel sandwiches and other breakfast and lunch goodies. Or try Brix Grill if you’re looking for a mimosa or bloody Mary and a delicious casual breakfast. In the mood for just really good coffee and a quick bite? Pop into Gathering Grounds Coffee House, which offers an extensive vegan menu. For some pre-dinner warm-ups, cool down with craft brew and great food from Backside Brewing Co., North Forty Beer Co., Draper Draft House, Salud Brewery and Food Truck or McMenamin’s Roseburg Station Pub and Brewery. For more of a one-stop-shop, the Brix Grill rooftop lounge is open in the summer and has a variety of local beer and wine options, refreshing cocktails and a great food menu. Not to mention a fun, urban atmosphere. To sample local wines, try the Trella Tasting Room or Paul O’Brien Urban Winery (go early; the tasting room closes at 5 p.m. here).
Time for dinner? Get cozy at True Kitchen and Bar. Their handcrafted cocktails and gourmet cuisine won’t leave you disappointed. If you are feeling like a taste of Italy, head to Dino’s Ristorante, known for fresh, local ingredients and local wines. Or try another local favorite, Old Soul, for delicious wood-fired pizza. For outstanding Greek cuisine, there’s Alexanders, and if you’re hankering for Mexican, El Mariachi Loco is another excellent bet.
You'll find the vast majority of these establishments within easy walking distance of one another, on or between Jackson and Main streets in downtown Roseburg. Complete information can be found on their individual Facebook pages.
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LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT / HISTORICAL TOURS / MUSICIAN FOR HIRE / WHAT'S IN A NAME?
CULTURE
LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT As students at Roseburg High, Mark and Marlyce Robbins flirted with the idea of being something more than friends. Nearly a half-century later, they finally became sweethearts. Story by Jim Hays Photo by Thomas Boyd
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n a page in the back of the former Marlyce Carey’s copy of Umpqua, Roseburg High’s annual, is a blackand-white photo of downtown Roseburg’s Jackson Street as it looked in 1955.
Above the photo is an inscription, handwritten in a tidy cursive.
“Marlyce,” it reads, “I’m still waiting for that first date with you— someday, somehow it will happen. Good luck, Mark.” In 1955, Mark Robbins was a handsome prep track star who had won the mile at consecutive high school state meets and also claimed back-to-back state cross-country championships. He was student body treasurer his senior year and worked swing shift on the green chain at Roseburg Lumber. He also had a crush on the redheaded, athletic Marlyce, who was active in RHS’ Pepsters and president of the school’s chapter of 18
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Future Business Leaders of America while holding down a parttime job at Kim’s, now called Pete’s Drive-In. But Mark and Marlyce, members of the same class and born just a week apart, never quite got together. At least not then. “I would have gone out with him if he had asked me,” says Marlyce. “But neither of us had a lot of time for dating.” Mark remembers it being less a matter of time demands and more an issue of nerves. “I wanted to ask her, but it wasn’t easy for me to approach the prettiest girl in the school,” he says. It would be 45 years before Mark got another chance. After graduation, the two lost touch but ran into each other at the 2000 RHS class reunion—the first such event either had attended. By then, both had married others and divorced, had adult children (in another coincidence, both their sons and daughters have the same
CULTURE
“I wanted to ask her out, but it wasn’t easy for me to approach the prettiest girl in the school.”
names), had retired and were living far from Douglas County but looking for a reason to move back. They talked. They swapped phone numbers. They corresponded. Then came that long-awaited first date, a weekend trip to Florence. That led to a long engagement, a beach wedding in Yachats, a home together in Sutherlin and, last October, their 10th wedding anniversary.
M
But that’s just the short version. arlyce, who grew up in Wilbur, met Mark when they were sophomores signing up for algebra. He had just transferred in from Corvallis. The two also wound up in the same RHS bookkeeping class.
— Mark Robbins
Marlyce, like Mark a straight-A student, got a partial scholarship to Oregon State to study accounting but left after two years to get married. Her husband was in the Air Force and she moved often, but never lost her longing for her hometown. “My ultimate dream was to move back to Douglas County,” she says. After her marriage ended and she became a single mom, she worked her way through Utah State University to finish her accounting degree, then was hired on by the school’s finance department, where she worked for 25 years while raising three children. In 2000, she returned to Roseburg to visit her sister and decided, as long as she was here, to attend her 45-year class reunion.
“Mark had a reputation as being very courteous and considerate,” Marlyce remembers. “He was a total gentleman. And still is.”
Mark was present, too, led there by a premonition. “I had a feeling Marlyce might be there,” he says, “so I decided I would go.”
Mark, who had started running competitively at Corvallis, became a star distance runner in Roseburg under coach Frank Purdy. He competed at the state track meet all four years, the last three for RHS.
Marlyce thought he looked familiar.
He got to the top of the medal stand as a junior in 1954, finishing in 4 minutes, 27.7 seconds at Oregon State College. He repeated as a senior, winning in 4:28.1 on the same track. The two state track wins, plus his crosscountry titles, got the attention of legendary University of Oregon coach Bill Bowerman, who offered Mark a scholarship. He became a three-year letterman at Oregon, competing mainly in the twomile run. He also met a teammate named Phil Knight, who would co-found Nike with Bowerman. Mark and Knight became fraternity brothers and have kept in touch. Mark was among the invited guests at a recent Nike luncheon. Graduating with a business degree, Mark worked in Washington and Idaho as an accountant and supervisor and then a CPA before retiring. In addition to two adult children, he had numerous business and real estate interests.
“We were only a couple feet apart and he looked like somebody I felt I knew,” she says. “But thank God for name tags.” It took time to get reacquainted, but after two years of phone calls, emails and the occasional in-person visit, Mark proposed on the Roseburg High Quad in 2002. However, it was another seven years and countless dates and RV excursions before they actually tied the knot. What’s the rush, when you’ve already waited 45 years? When they did decide it was time, they didn’t waste any more of it. “I was taking it slow because I wanted to be sure,” Marlyce says. “Finally, he asked me, ‘When are we going to get married?’ and I said, ‘How about next week?’” On Oct. 22, 2009, Mark and Marlyce said their vows before a minister on the beach at Yachats. “I’m kind of slow, but I have a good finish,” jokes the former champion runner, Mark. Now in their 80s, the couple live in Sutherlin. They walk together, play golf, watch sports on TV and in person, dance and are active at the Moose, Elks and Eagles lodges. Mostly, though, they enjoy each other and making up for all that time they didn’t have together. “It’s a beautiful life,” says Marlyce. BACK TO NATURE
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CULTURE
REVISITING THE BLAST A local video producer revisits the famous Roseburg Blast of 1959 in dramatic fashion through a free app and accompanying walking tour. Story by Jennifer Grafiada Photo by Thomas Boyd
Video producer Kent Rochester surrounded by scenes of the Roseburg Blast.
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CULTURE
T
he Blast Roseburg truck full 14 people of the city.
of 1959 left indelible marks on the city of and its history. When a fire ignited a parked of explosives it leveled eight city blocks, killed and created a 52-foot-wide crater in the heart
Kent Rochester wasn’t alive to experience The Blast, but the Sutherlin native remembers reading the News Review’s annual retelling of the event beginning when he was around 10. Little did he know the captivating articles and photos would inspire his unique creative output decades later.
THE 1959 ROSEBURG BLAST, BY THE NUMBERS 1:14 am: Time of detonation on Aug. 17, 1959 2,000: Feet into the air that the smoke reached
In 2005, Rochester bought a video iPod and began thinking of how it could be used as a platform for tourism-related virtual tours. Then working for 99 Productions, Rochester and a collaborator from 99, Pat Hart, started work on a video tour related to The Blast, piecing together the story from the accounts of witnesses and reenacting scenes with the help of volunteer actors.
2: Tons of dynamite that were ignited in the truck, along with over 4 tons of ammonium nitrate
They began creating a series of short video vignettes, spliced together from archival footage and still photos and accompanied by scripted narration.
125: People injured
The Douglas County Museum, Douglas County Library and local police and fire departments helped Rochester with materials, personnel and vehicles, and he spent countless hours tracking down people who had ties to The Blast and researching the timelines to ensure meticulous accuracy. “We wanted to get it right,” says Rochester, who now owns Big Wrench Media, a Roseburg video production company. “We spent a lot of time tracking down leads and making phone calls. We also wanted to honor those who lost their lives in the Blast, so we made an effort to get photos of everyone who had died.”
The app tour features 12 designated stops, where key moments from more than 50 years ago are brought to life in the same locations where the events took place. With the introduction of the iPhone, Rochester realized he could reach a far larger audience than he had envisioned by offering the tour as a free app. Anyone living in or visiting Roseburg can download the app, head downtown, then take a walking tour that features 12 designated stops, where key moments from more than 50 years ago are brought to life in the same locations where the events took place. Initially used by the Roseburg Visitors Center, the tour app was offline until recently when Rochester, with support from UV magazine, made it available again at www.1959RoseburgBlastTour.com. Rochester hopes that his app helps people better understand one of the most significant events in Roseburg’s history and appreciate its lingering effects. “The Blast reshaped downtown Roseburg,” says Rochester. “A great deal of urban renewal in the downtown area occurred in its aftermath. It seems unthinkable today that a truck loaded with explosives could have ever been left unattended in the center of a city, but it was the Blast that created major changes in the law regarding explosives and their transportation. Hopefully, we learn from our mistakes so we don’t repeat tragic events like this.”
7: Miles away that windows were broken 14: People killed 8: City blocks destroyed 30: City blocks severely damaged $12 million: Estimated damage done $1.2 million: Amount in civil damages paid by Pacific Powder Co. 52 ft: Diameter of the crater the blast created 12 ft: Depth of the crater 300: Buildings damaged
ANOTHER WALK TO REMEMBER In the 1980s, a fourth-grade teacher named Britton Weaver imbued his beloved hometown with the magic of the past by taking his students on walking tours. Weaver, who taught at Hucrest Elementary for more than 20 years before retiring, was an avid fan of Oregon history, which at the time was a required subject in the public school curriculum. With the help of a few fellow teachers, he mapped out several points of interest, mainly along Jackson, Oak, Cass, Lane, Washington and Douglas streets. Sometimes, he would have the children do gravestone rubbings at local cemeteries before embarking on the tour. For decades, his typewritten Historic Walking Tour has sat at the Floed-Lane House, which is maintained by the Douglas County Historical Society. The tour is now being updated with the help of Mary Weaver, Britton’s widow, and is available at RoseburgTours.com. BACK TO NATURE
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CULTURE
HAVE DRUMS, WILL TRAVEL COVID-19 has virtually shuttered the live music industry, but when it opens back up Roseburg native Nate Hansen will have plenty of opportunities to play in public again. Story and photo by Miki Markovich
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Roseburg native Nate Hansen finds a non-traditional outlet for his music as he waits for the multiple Eugene bands he plays for to go live again.
E
ven in the middle of a global pandemic, with more canceled gigs than he can shake a drumstick at, Nate Hansen exudes the smoothness of a seasoned musician and the humble persona of a close friend.
While this is not to say the Roseburg native has a split personality, he certainly couldn’t be blamed for having one.
“I've wanted to play music pretty much as long as I remember,” says Hansen. “From age 2 to 6 or 7, I would put on The Beatles’ 1 album. That was the soundtrack of me falling asleep every single night without fail. From there, I got into different styles of music. I kind of had my ear to the ground.” At age 7, Hansen took up percussion. His uncle, Ross Hansen, a music teacher at Fremont Middle School and Umpqua Community College, helped connect some dots.
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Hemlock Lane included, from left, Nate Hansen, Isaac Brickner, Natty Burmeister and Stephen Metsig. Photo by Brad Harvey.
“Ross worked as a professional guitar player for 20 years, primarily down in Dallas, but at this time he was living and playing in Portland,” says Hansen. “When a 7-year-old kid approaches most people saying, 'I want to play drums,' that's not something they can really facilitate. But he gave me my first practice pad and pair of sticks, and then was able to guide my parents to resources and help me get a teacher.” Now a Eugene resident, Hansen remains well connected to Douglas County. Before COVID-19 virtually eliminated the opportunity to play live gigs, he was involved in projects with Graduating Class, Monarch Hotel, Blue Moods and the Neil Gregory Johnson Band, with his involvement ranging from drumming to songwriting and producing. While Johnson’s band is the only one based in Roseburg, all have strong local ties. “In tracing these projects back recently, it was like ‘I met this person when I was living in Roseburg’ or ‘I met this person through somebody I met in Roseburg.’ It was a really fun process to connect all the dots and realize there are people I've been playing with since I was 12. We're still playing, but we're playing with this larger web of folks.” An advocate for music education programs, Hansen helped form the popular Roseburg band Hemlock Lane with some players he met in a Fremont Middle School jazz program and others he met three years later in a Roseburg High songwriting class. This collaboration led to a series of EPs produced by Grammynominated Mark Needham, whose portfolio includes artists such as Imagine Dragons, The Killers and Chris Isaak. “We just cut our teeth and figured out this process,” says Hansen. “We wrote a lot of bad songs when we started, but we got to the point where we were actually writing pretty cool stuff. Then it was, OK, how do you make a record? Dive right in, book studio time, figure out how to record things, figure out how to find our sound. We made a couple of crummy records but eventually refined what we were doing. Same thing went for booking tours and playing shows.”
Hemlock Lane was composed of students Hansen met in middle and high school that recorded a series of EPs produced by Grammy-nominated Mark Needham, whose portfolio includes artists such as Imagine Dragons, The Killers and Chris Isaak.
Local mentorship and youthful enthusiasm kept the momentum going for Hemlock Lane. The members learned by doing, an apprenticeship served partly on an early tour of the West Coast. They played to empty rooms and slept in vans, but never stopped trying to learn their craft and pick up how-to info along the way. “There were a lot of great, seasoned musicians who were a part of that scene that really provided that initial guidance,” says Hansen. “‘Hey kid, this is how you plug in your pedal board,’ and ‘This is how you put a mic on a drum set.’ ‘This is how you email a venue to ask for a date you're trying to book.’ Help with all that initial stuff came from bands like Not Penny's Boat. Local people on the scene were really receptive and helpful.” It was during this “education” that Hansen met current bandmate Neil Johnson. “Neil's really more of a testament to the Roseburg music scene than I am,” he says. “His presence and the community he’s built up in Roseburg are absolutely amazing. Whenever I’ve played shows in Douglas County the turnout and response have been incredible. Again, that's a connection I never would have made if not for those early years playing spots like Splitz, the Half Shell or Musicians for Mobility (a local fund-raising event).” With the number of Umpqua Valley venues hosting music growing, now including breweries like North 40, Two-Shy and Backside and soon to include the music-centric downtown spot The Sunnyside, Hansen is looking forward to the future. Not just for the opportunity to play more himself, but also to see the emergence of Roseburg's next Hemlock Lane. “Even though some of us don't live there anymore, we’re still active participants in the music scene,” Hansen says. “Seeing the city grow, and the nightlife and the venue situation improve, has been really fun.”
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CULTURE
Tahkenitch Lake circa 1915-25.
WHAT’S IN A NAME? There’s a story behind the name of every locale in the Umpqua Valley, and in each issue of UV we give you the scoop on one or more of them. In this issue, we present Part II of the meanings of local bodies of water. Story by Jim Hays Photographs courtesy of Douglas County Museum
I
t was in the Winter 2019 issue of UV that we opined that it was nearly impossible to travel around Douglas County without getting your feet wet—figuratively speaking.
The county gets an average of 43.6 inches of rainfall annually. And with the Cascades on the east side and the Pacific Ocean as the westernmost boundary, the county’s many rivers, streams, lakes, creeks and ponds are seldom in any danger of running dry. Even in July, Douglas County’s driest month with an average of just 0.2 inches of rain.
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We couldn’t get to all of them last time—and we won’t here, either, even though water covers less than 2 percent of the county’s 5,134 square miles. But with the invaluable assistance of Oregon Geographic Names and back issues of the Oregon Historical Quarterly—plus other statistics and historical documents—and without claiming to be comprehensive or authoritative, here is what we learned about a few of the county’s bodies of water near the lower Umpqua River. SILTCOOS LAKE Straddling the line between Douglas and Lane counties, about 15 miles north of Reedsport, and comprising a surface area of 3,134 acres, Siltcoos is the largest lake on the Oregon coast. The lake is a mere 13 feet above sea level and has an average depth of 11 feet. It’s a popular destination for fishing and camping. Its outflow is the modest Siltcoos River, a shallow, sluggish stream that flows generally west about three miles to the Pacific. Depending on the source, Siltcoos is derived from a traditional Siuslaw place name. Other sources link it to the name of a tribal chief and still others say it comes from a native American family name. It has also been posited that the name is somehow linked to Coos Bay, more than 50 miles south, although the tribes of the two regions are apparently unrelated. TAHKENITCH LAKE Just south of Siltcoos Lake, the irregularly shaped Tahkenitch has a surface area of 2,118 acres and, like Siltcoos, an average depth of just 11 feet. It lies about eight miles north of Reedsport in northwest Douglas County, just east of U.S. 101—which separates the lakes from the Oregon Dunes recreation area.
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The name is said to be a Siuslaw word for “Many Arms,” which describes perfectly Tahkenitch Lake’s sprawling labyrinth of coves, inlets and islands, many of which are also named. The lake is 20 feet above sea level, and its northernmost shore is only a short distance from the southernmost backwater of Siltcoos, suggesting that the two lakes may have been connected at some point. Tahkenitch Lake is fed by numerous creeks, principally Fivemile and Leitel, and its outflow is its namesake creek.
dammed Lake Creek—the lake’s principal inflow—an estimated 1,400 years ago. The resulting impound flooded the valley behind the slide. Loon Lake is 392 feet above sea level and has an average depth of 53 feet. Today, the lake boasts a lodge and RV park, plus assorted recreation areas. 126
Both Tahkenitch and Siltcoos lakes were formed at the end of the Ice Age (about 12,000 years ago) when glacial melt caused sea levels to rise and drown the lower reaches of Oregon’s coastal rivers. Sediment left by the sluggish rivers formed dunes, which mostly blocked their natural outflow to the ocean. The rivers’ impounded water spread over a wide area and became the shallow lakes we know today.
Florence 101
Siltcoos Lake
LOON LAKE First, a factoid: According to the U.S. Bureau of Geographic Names, Douglas County’s Loon Lake is one of 17 bodies of water in the U.S. by that name. Five of them are in Minnesota. Go figure.
Tahkenitch Lake
The local Loon Lake got its designation in 1852, according to Albert Walling’s 1884 History of Southern Oregon, cited in Oregon Geographic Names. Walling’s account says three men—L.L. Williams, Joseph Peters and Job Hatfield—set out from Scottsburg on the Umpqua River to explore the area of the Coast Range south of the river. They eventually came across this 294-acre lake, about 10 miles southwest of Scottsburg. The trio spotted loons in the water some distance away and a floating log that was home to a nest containing two eggs. Unlike Tahkenitch and Siltcoos, Loon Lake is what is called a “landslide” lake. It was formed when a slide of sandstone blocks
Reedsport
101
38
Loon Lake
Loon Lake.
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FOOD DRINK FOOD + +DRINK
FRESH IDEAS / KRUSE CONTROL
FRESH IDEAS Dallas Amer of Kalapuya Honey making a sale.
COVID-19 forces local food producers to get creative, and their response is a full-grown business success. Story by Jennifer Grafiada Photos by Thomas Boyd
T
here was always the hope for, and for some even signs of, a silver lining.
Even as COVID-19 forced citizens to stay in their homes, locked down economies and caused businesses and entire industries to suffer, there were some that boomed: Bicycle shops. Video game creators. Video conference software developers. Liquor stores. Toilet paper manufacturers.
And, as turned out, local food producers. Shelter-in-place mandates presented Douglas County producers with a potentially serious challenge. If the pandemic forced the Umpqua Valley Farmers’ Market to shut down, how could farmers get their products to customers? The answer turned out to be equal parts creativity and technology. And it has provided another outlet for consumers to find the fresh, local food they want—even while the farmers’ market remains open and continues to thrive. It’s also helped vendors increase sales and revenue, surprising developments that they
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are confident will continue after social distancing and the public wearing of masks are things of the past. “COVID-19 has created a beautiful boost to the local food movement,” says Amanda Pastoria, farmers’ market manager. “People are concerned about the quality and safety of their food. They are also taking care of their neighbors’, friends’ and families’ businesses.” With additional protocols in place to increase safety in the COVID environment, the farmers’ market has operated through the lockdown, offering locally grown goods to its growing base of loyal customers. Some UVFM vendors, however, have created an alternative model that they are using successfully as both a stand-alone enterprise and a supplement to their market booths. For Rylan Guillen of Champion Club Farms, creativity was born of necessity. He wanted a back-up method of selling food if the farmer’s market was shut down. “There is nothing more American to me than options,” he says. Guillen found an answer in Facebook groups where food producers post merchandise and customers place orders in the comment sections. Weekly pick-up points and times are arranged and the transactions are completed. Guillen now runs two Facebook groups himself. Online ordering allows customers to shop for food anytime and from virtually anywhere. It also helps with inventory control, giving producers an idea of how much they can sell in a given
FOOD + DRINK
timeframe. The result is a farm-to-table process that connects consumers directly with producers. One of Guillen’s groups meets for pick-up Thursdays from 8 to 9 a.m. at Roseburg First United Methodist Church. Another meets Thursdays from 5 to 6:30 p.m. at Dakota Street Pizza in Sutherlin. “(This is) a trade model originally created in Finland,” Guillen writes on his groups’ Facebook pages. “Imagine being able to shop a variety of fresh, local and ethical produce from the comfort of your own home…whilst supporting small-scale producers in your community?” DC Modern Roots, a farm based in Winston run by Denise and Chad Northcraft, decided to try the same model. They teamed up with Erin Saylor of Saylor Farms in Lookingglass to run a Facebook group pick-up called “42 Connect,” which meets from
11 a.m. to noon Thursdays on property adjacent to Treats Café in Tenmile. Within two months of its formation, the group grew to more than 2,000 members.
“My sales have increased three-fold from pre-COVID,” says Chris VanDyke, owner of Local Fixe, which sells fresh-made pasta and pizza dough. “I found this surprising, but when I mentioned it to a customer she said that right now she just wants to know where her food is coming from.” Saylor, who sells homemade elderberry syrup and goat-milk soaps, as well as eggs, beef, milk and chicken, has also seen an increase in sales. “I feel because of this virus and the state that we are in right now, folks who didn’t regularly buy local goods in the past will do so now,” Saylor says. “One, because they have tasted the difference and, two, because it goes straight from farm to table. There’s no middle man, not many people handling the goods, and you are supporting small farms and families.”
The Northcrafts, who normally run summer and winter CSA (community supported agriculture) baskets of produce, eggs, baked goods and condiments, put an ad on Facebook asking people to consider local farmers as a valuable resource, especially when food shortages seem possible.
Papa Curt’s Salsa is one of the participating businesses; others sell grass-fed beef, apple crumbles, culinary lavender, jelly, assorted vegetables, eggs, baked goods, honey and a variety of non-edibles such as sheep-milk soap and hand-engraved leather coffee koozies.
“We wanted people to understand that if grocery stores were not going to have food, we would,” says Chad. “We had a lot of new members sign up in a short period of time.”
The pick-ups have proved so popular that some vendors say they are doing better than they were pre-pandemic.
The Northcrafts had a potential problem, however, when a private chef cancelled a large order because of COVID-19. After learning
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FOOD + DRINK
Denise and Chad Northcraft of DC Modern Roots.
“I found (my sales increase) surprising, but when I mentioned it to a customer, she said that right now she just wants to know where her food is coming from.” — Chris Van Dyke, Local Fixe about the Facebook group idea from Erin Saylor, the Northcrafts joined and, says Chad, “Next thing you know, business as usual got a whole lot busier.” Facebook pick-up program participants aren’t the only ones who have seen sales increase. Helios Farms isn’t involved, but has still seen big jumps in sales of its eggs, chicken, pork and dairy products through its website and UVFM. 30
UV . SUMMER 2020
“The pace of our orders coming in more than doubled without much effort on our part,” says Helios’ owner Theo Wadman. “People want to have a local food supply now. Many are reserving a year’s supply of food from us, with some paying in advance. That helps our farm grow into its full potential much faster.” Farmers are optimistic their sales boom will continue when the lockdown has been lifted completely. “By decentralizing food supply and sourcing it locally, moving away from the big-box mentality, we essentially can restore core security to our county,” says Wadman. “If people support food sources that are within a 100-mile radius instead of sourcing it from other countries, then our country will build resilience to any crisis.”
For more details about the Facebook groups and local purveyors mentioned in this article, visit realfoodroseburg.com
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KRUSE CONTROL For almost 100 years, Kruse Farms has offered Umpqua Valley residents access to high-quality, fresh fruits and vegetables and a direct connection to the farmers who grow it. Story by B. Lane Johns Photos by Thomas Boyd
The fourth-generation of Kruse farmers includes Evan, who's responsible for "keeping things growing.�
J
ust off the intersection of Melrose and Garden Valley roads, Kruse Farms market and bakery is a Roseburg landmark, and when its doors open after a long winter, locals consider it an official rite of spring.
But while many flock to the market in search of fresh produce, delicious pies and a wide variety of other goods, few know the story behind the market with the colorful façade of fruits and vegetables.
It all started in 1923, when Bert Kruse cleared and plowed 13 acres of earth. It was a time when, in Roseburg, a farmer often 32
UV . SUMMER 2020
had to rent a draft horse to help remove stumps or pull a plow. Kruse spent many days behind a plow and farming in addition to milking a herd of dairy cows twice a day. Fortunately, his son Don pitched in to keep the farm going, eventually becoming a partner and then owner after Bert semi-retired in the 1970s. As the surrounding community grew, so did the farm until the original 13 acres became almost 500. Don kept farming into his early 80s. He died in 2018 at age 87.
FOOD + DRINK
used as animal food or tilled back into the soil; we don’t waste it.”
These days the farm is run by a partnership that includes Don’s son Jeff, daughter Karen and grandson Evan. Karen supervises the farm stand, gift shop and bakery, while Jeff and Evan manage the fields together. Jeff handles most of the hay business and manages field employees and harvesting. Evan tackles agronomy/horticulture, i.e., he keeps things growing.
With summer here, Kruse Farms is well-stocked with cucumbers, tomatoes, melons, squash, peaches and berries along with many other produce standards, including Kruse’s favorite. “My favorite crop to grow is corn,” he says. “To me summer is not here until the corn is ready to harvest. We do nine or 10 plantings in order to space our harvest out and keep the market stocked.”
“Today Kruse Farms is a local supplier, but at one time we delivered produce from Medford up to Portland,” Evan Kruse says.
Kruse Farms is always looking to supply the area with a needed crop. This year it’s Teff hay, which originated in North Africa. “It supplies a specialized food source for horses with certain medical conditions, and it also makes an excellent cover crop,” Kruse says.
The farm originally grew about a half-dozen crops for the wholesale market. Truckloads were hauled to distribution warehouses throughout Oregon, and Kruse Farms earned a widespread reputation for the quality of its produce. When smaller local grocery stores began giving way to larger chains, farms had to become more specialized in what they grew or create their own market. Kruse Farms took the latter route. During the 1980s, the farm purchased its own produce stand and later added the bakery and gift shop.
“Most of our items have only been touched by one set of hands. When you have a closer connection to your community, it drives honesty and openness with food safety.”
“Our farm went from growing a few crops on a larger scale to about 60 crops on a smaller scale, with over 100 different planting cycles,” Evan Kruse explains. “With such diverse crop structure we basically became a large farm composed of many smaller farms.” Buying direct from farms, he adds, allows consumers to develop a more personal connection with suppliers.
“When you purchase produce from large chain stores, the food has passed through numerous hands and often traveled a long distance,” he says. “Most of our items have only been touched by one set of hands. When you have a closer connection to your community, it drives honesty and openness with food safety.” It’s clear that farming runs in Kruse’s blood, and he takes his responsibility to his customers, and the earth, seriously. “There are a lot of places to shop, so when folks come to us, it’s meaningful,” he says. “If I wouldn’t eat it, I won’t sell it. It will be
Some popular crops take a while to get dialed in. “Last year we finally became fully self-sufficient for our apple supply,” he says. “My granddad started planting trees years ago, and I think we got it figure out. But the hardest crop to grow is the one you’re growing for the first time.”
Over the years, the Kruse Farm bakery has gained a loyal following as well, especially among lovers of fruit and cream pies. Fans of baked goods will also find turnovers, — Evan Kruse cookies, cinnamon rolls and more, including a variety of Oregonmade products, from jams, syrups and baking mixes to salsas, pickled vegetables and barbecue rubs.
While the farm stand is the main outlet for fruits and vegetables, some u-pick options are available in season, including strawberries, cherries, blueberries, blackberries, boysenberries, marionberries and pumpkins. If a man’s working lifetime can be estimated by his enthusiasm for what he’s doing, Kruse will be running a tractor for a lot of years to come. And, like previous generations of Kruses, his son Owen shows signs of wanting to follow in his father’s footsteps. If a fifth generation of farmers keeps the Kruse Farm tradition alive and well, that will make future generations of Roseburg produce lovers very happy.
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THE LONG YELLOW LINE Our writer shares his experience working on the team that overcame searing heat, rough terrain and 20-hour days to finally end the devastation from last summer’s Milepost 97 fire. Story by David Shroyer
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line of weathered wilderness fire trucks creeps up a rugged mountain road.
Inside each vehicle is a tired crew of firefighters—grimy, sweaty and smelling of wood smoke. The scenery is once-lush steep hillsides, now charred and smoldering. Hovering over this apocalyptic landscape is the too-close stench of scorched, broken trees.
As they near their drop-off point, the firefighters hear radios crackle with orders from the convoy’s lead truck. Then a cadence of “Copy that” as each vehicle acknowledges receipt. At the drop-off, an assigned crew exits its truck. Members hand out tools, strap on backpacks, divvy up the drinking water. The squad boss offers a terse briefing. Communicate. Minimize risks. Directives are pointedly outlined; potential hazards described. As the crew members disperse to their individual tasks, the boss closes his instructions with “Remember your fire orders.” These are 10 simple commands each firefighter knows by heart. Until the job is done, these are the words they’ll live by. Hand tools are tightly clutched, chainsaws carried atop shoulders as the crew descends gingerly, single-file into the smoky ravine, eyes glancing repeatedly over their shoulders. And so the work begins.
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The Milepost 97 fire near Canyonville consumed more than 13,000 forested acres and caused an estimated $10 million in damage.
Fire crew boss Sean Steele surveys the terrain during a recent training exercise.
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The 2019 Milepost 97 fire near Canyonville was my first experience on the line. The flames consumed more than 13,000 forested acres and caused an estimated $10 million in damage. Wildfires are typically named for a geographic feature or location near their source. Milepost 97 started near its namesake marker on Interstate 5. Fighting it was hot and treacherous, with oldgrowth Douglas fir burning on steep, rocky slopes. I arrived at the “mop-up” stage, an operation in which crews seek possible flashpoints, extinguish or remove smoldering material and ensure a fire thought to be under control doesn’t flare into a new peril. After establishing a control line—a border designed to keep a fire within a specified area —crews canvass the area with water hoses, shovels or pulaskis (a short-handled ax/hoe combination) as they search for “smokers” and “hotspots.” Sometimes, crew members are down on hands and knees as they poke and prod the ground for anything that feels warm. When found, they dig it up—or drown it if it can’t be removed. Mop-up might sound like the easiest part of the job, but that’s when most accidents happen, with potentially life-threatening injuries to those charged with the mopping up. Burned-out snags big enough to maim can topple quickly in the slightest breeze so vigilance is constant. Even then, escape can be iffy. Spot fires during mop-up operations are among the worst hazards. Lightweight embers from smoldering fuels rise in heated air. Spread by wind, the embers can jump control lines, swiftly ignite unburned pockets of fuel and ambush fire crews. On Milepost 97, hundreds of burned-out trees seem ready to break or fall at any moment. Our squad scales and descends near-vertical rockslides, avoids fire-baked boulders and digs out burning tree roots the size of minivans. We drag our knuckles on the ground looking for potential hotspots. The stifling heat, rough terrain and workdays that sometimes stretch to 20 hours are feats of physical and mental endurance for everyone. But the painstaking work goes on.
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Firefighters during a training exercise. Photo by Thomas Boyd.
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Photo by David Shroyer.
Working on dizzying slopes, firefighters can suddenly be confronted by loose footing, falling trees and tumbling boulders. Sometimes escape is impossible. Squad bosses contemplate which direction to cut line up hill. Photo by David Shroyer.
Photo by Michael Sullivan.
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In an endeavor where coordination, dedication and know-how get crews home safely, firefighters get to know one another well. Colleagues can become close friends. Meal breaks that are often 15 minutes of wolfing something down on a charred mountainside allow all of us a moment to check in with one another and reflect on what we are trying to accomplish—saving our neighborhood, our community and way of life. Sean Steele, once a guide on the Colorado River, became a firefighter in his mid-20s. He entered this season, his third on the firelines, as a Firefighter Type 1, a squad boss directing five or so others. Steele’s squad is one of four on a 20man crew led by a crew boss. Steele earned his spot with his all-day-everyday energy and seeming fearlessness. He holds squad members accountable and pushes them to improve while following fire orders and safety protocols to the smallest detail. “I’m here to fight fires,” Steele says while riding in a truck to his squad’s next drop-off. “We all are. So if there’s anyone on this crew not pulling their weight, they are a danger to us and themselves.” Given the small size of the squad, every firefighter is key to making it all work. Tasks left unperformed, no matter how small or seemingly unimportant, create danger for the rest of the team. Bosses like Steele lead by example, not content to stand back and supervise. But even with an entire 20-man crew meshing perfectly, safety cannot be guaranteed.
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orking on dizzying slopes— sometimes as much as 70 degrees—firefighters can suddenly be confronted by loose footing, falling trees and tumbling boulders. Sometimes escape is impossible.
Working on a relatively small, 15-acre blaze near Elkton, our crew was in a truck going up the mountain on an old logging road when we met an ambulance on the way down. A firefighter lost his footing climbing into a canyon and sustained a broken back in his subsequent fall. As we descended into the canyon to start our own work, helicopters dumped water on the fire, getting closer and closer with every load, drenching the forest and the firefighters. Branches snapped and
trees sizzled around us and we cheered as the water drops hit their targets. By the second day, smoke and weather had made visibility poor. Helicopter runs were out of the question, meaning those of us on the ground were on our own. Hot, dry weather worsened the situation. Trees began to group torching, the fire spreading from treetop to treetop well above us then burning downward. Embers rained across our line, creating new hotspots and spreading our crew thin. With flames creeping downhill toward our position, our water pumps at the rim of the canyon lost pressure, then failed and burned. Nearly outflanked, we scrambled to remove unburned fuel between the line and the approaching blaze. Chainsaws chewed up giant logs and thick, dry brush. People with shovels and pulaskis worked the ground desperately, debris flying. It was becoming grim. A spot fire threatened our only escape route. But at that critical moment, help arrived. Some mineral dirt was found, replacement pumps were brought in, water tenders filled our tanks above and tree fellers took out flaming firs. Our crisis had passed. Coordination and dedication were the keys. Different modes of firefighting coming together in the clutch. Fellers, engines, hand tools and replacement equipment helped halt the fire’s spread. Crews got it contained and minimized damage to the forest. It will take time, but wildlife will move back in, small animals will dart about in search of food, birds’ songs will be heard again, and even deer will be seen moving in clearings and among trees. We saw it happen when our crew returned to another fire-stricken area.
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ack on Milepost 97, our crew is close to finishing the mop-up. Hoses are rolled up and land gridded.
A white butterfly with purple spots flutters around the crew. It moves from one person to the next to the next, lighting on hard hats and fingertips as we march out of the mountain in single file, one long yellow line.
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Retired firefighter Josh Voynick relocated from Phoenix to Glide just to be closer to the North Umpqua River's famed fishing.
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Lure of the Umpqua The Umpqua Valley offers more angling opportunities than you can shake a fishing rod at. Story by Geoff Shipley Photos by Jonathan Cummings
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f you agree with Scottish novelist and historian John Buchan that fishing offers a “perpetual series of occasions for hope,” then you’ll be happy to know (if you don’t already) that Douglas County overflows with pure angling optimism.
With hundreds of miles and millions of gallons of fishable water contained in a host of rivers, streams, lakes, ponds, bays and beaches strung from the forested Cascade Range to the salty waters of the Pacific Ocean, few places boast more beauty, access and opportunity for anglers than this little slice of western Oregon. The Umpqua River traverses a 100-mile course from mountain range to seashore and serves as the central repository for an extensive basin of some 4,600 square miles—an area larger than Rhode Island and Delaware combined. From the high point of 9,184-foot Mount Thielsen to sea level at Winchester Bay, anglers can explore environments that range from snow-covered peaks and temperate rain forests to rolling oak savannahs and open farmland to shifting tidewater and the relentless waves of the Pacific. The unique variety of fishing opportunities that follows from such a diverse landscape is something local anglers treasure.
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“There’s always something you can fish for, no matter your experience level,” says Barb Murray, a lifelong local angler. “I lived in Phoenix, Ariz., and was a dedicated bass fisherman,” says Josh Voynick, a retired firefighter who moved to Glide to be near the North Umpqua’s famed fishing. “I read an article in Bassmaster magazine about the smallmouth bass fishing on the main Umpqua and came to check it out.” Other available warm-water species include largemouth bass, yellow perch, shad, striped bass, catfish, sunfish, bluegill and crappie. “There’s just something about the crappie,” shares Mary Gallagher, another lifelong local angler. “Especially a ‘slabber.’ A 15-inch crappie is an impressive sight.” The array of cold-water species available to those who fish the Umpqua Valley is equally impressive and includes rainbow, cutthroat, bull, brown and brook trout; kokanee, coho salmon and Chinook salmon. No fish, though, is more synonymous with the resilience and mystique of the Umpqua Valley than the area’s native steelhead, largely owing to the northern fork of the Umpqua River and its famed breeding and rearing grounds for this ocean-going cousin of the trout. “The North Umpqua is world famous and is one of the best steelhead rivers on the continent,” says Mike McCoy, who’s been chasing fish in the Umpqua Valley for 50 years. “It’s a classic, blue-ribbon stream with 30 miles of fly-fishing-only water.” Many anglers first introduced to steelhead fishing, even those with plenty of experience in other angling pursuits, discover a challenging quarry that rewards the patient and the dedicated. That’s something Kirk Blaine, a former fly-fishing guide in Colorado, quickly discovered.
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“I learned how difficult steelhead are to catch,” he says. “That first trip was a wonderful and humbling experience that sparked a passion I’ll keep pursuing for life.” Apart from the moving waters of the area’s streams and rivers, the Umpqua Valley boasts a dizzying selection of lakes and ponds, many of which offer both warm-water and cold-water species and the benefit of year-round fishing. Popular and productive lakes and impoundments include Ben Irving Reservoir, Cooper Creek Reservoir, Galesville Reservoir, Lemolo Lake and Toketee Reservoir. However, it’s large, natural Diamond Lake, high in the Cascades, that brings a special sparkle to many local anglers’ eyes. “That’s a really fun lake with lots of opportunity to fish a variety of ways,” says McCoy. “Diamond Lake is one of our favorite places to be in the spring,” Blaine adds. At the opposite end of the valley, trout and bass give way to crabbing, clamming, surf perch, bottom fishing and targeting salmon, halibut, tuna and other finned creatures of the deep. “I like (surf ) perch fishing,” says Gallagher. “I have rods with me most of the time so I can fish anywhere, anytime.” With the diversity of fish and types of waters found throughout the Umpqua Valley, the local waters also lend themselves to an angler’s preferred tackle as well, whether that be conventional spin- and bait-casting gear or fly-fishing setups. Plenty of anglers use both. “I still mostly fish conventional gear because that’s what I know,” says Gallagher. “But I’m learning to fly fish.” Blaine will exchange his floating line and box of flies for standard conventional tackle when pursuing spring Chinook salmon or the occasional smallmouth bass.
“We spent a lot of time at Diamond Lake with my dad. We loved that time with him.” — Barb Murray
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“I give people hooks or lures and ask that they pass on the knowledge and share it with others.” — Mary Gallagher
“Using a spinning rod and conventional tackle is usually a quick way to get a couple in the boat,” he says of smallmouth fishing. Local angler Linda Hall got “hooked” on fly fishing during a trip to Idaho with her husband a few years ago. She says there are plenty of places in the Umpqua Valley to exercise what she calls a more “Zen and calm” way to fish. It’s a pursuit she finds rewarding whether the fish are furiously biting or showing a case of lockjaw. “I’m happy to just practice casting and catch a fish every once in a while,” she says. She’s also discovered that fly fishing tends to put some strain on gear closets and rod racks. “I could never understand why my husband had so many fly rods. Now I have four,” Hall says with a laugh. Regardless of the particular species being pursued, the specific water being fished or the distinct gear being employed, local anglers in the Umpqua Valley share a deep appreciation of and unique intimacy with their home waters. Part of that includes the cherished memories embedded in the places they fish. Anglers share about that first unforgettable steelhead landed or wet wading the remarkable waters of the North Umpqua in summer or tranquil evenings at their favorite pond or finding that little gem of a hideaway mountain lake. For most, though, fishing is as much about friends, family, mentors and community as it is about the sport and enjoying the outdoors. 46
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“We spent a lot of time at Diamond Lake with my dad,” says Murray. “He had three girls and that didn’t hurt his feelings. Dad would bait our hooks and take the fish off and clean them. We loved that time with him.” “The social part of fishing is big for me,” says Gallagher. “So many people along the banks have inspired me. I give people hooks or lures and ask that they pass on the knowledge and share it with others.” she says That willingness of others to share is echoed by Hall. “Friends have been so great about educating me about casting, tying, rigging and just sharing a ton of info,” info,” she says. She also cites the influence of the Umpqua Valley Fly Fishers club and the supportive outings they offer. McCoy, current club president, points to the veteransoriented Project Healing Waters as another active local angling group. “There are lots of ways for new residents and anglers to meet and get involved,” he says. Still others reference—with reverence—world-renowned local angler and conservationist Frank Moore for
his contributions toward defending the beauty and vitality of some of the Umpqua Valley’s most delicate natural systems. “It’s not just that he’s an amazing fisherman, but he taught me the value of protecting the resource,” says Voynick. “I’m grateful to live here and help keep things healthy and protected.” Blaine finds similar inspiration through the Steamboaters (steamboaters.org), a not-for-profit group that’s been caring for the North Umpqua, its tributaries and its natural inhabitants for more than 50 years. “They’ve been very influential in getting me more involved in protecting our amazing natural resources,” he says. In a place where those remarkable resources play a key role in creating outstandingly diverse and abundant fishing opportunities, that kind of optimism and enthusiasm only makes sense. Because for anglers in the Umpqua Valley, those perpetual occasions for hope are always just around the bend.
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Water, Water Everywhere Also known as Hwy. 138, Douglas County’s Highway of Waterfalls offers enthusiasts convenient access to some of the most majestic cascades in Oregon. Story by Dick Baltus Photos by Tim Stephanos
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waterfall is a magnificent force of nature, what one poet called “a serene beauty roaring with power.”
Whether it is the beauty, the power, an excuse to get back to nature or all of the above, waterfalls are a main attraction of the Umpqua Valley. According to a representative of AHM Brands, the agency that created the tourism-focused The Umpqua Life campaign a few years ago, the waterfall section of the campaign website was by far the most frequently visited link.
For enthusiasts whose goal is to visit as many sites as possible in a short period of time, the Highway of Waterfalls is tailor-made. Otherwise known as Hwy 138 and the North Umpqua River Scenic Byway, the Highway of Waterfalls stretches east from Roseburg past Diamond Lake and Crater Lake and covers some of the most beautiful terrain in America. If you are local, of course, you know all this. But if you haven’t taken the time to visit falls that require just a bit more of a trek off the highway than, say, Watson Falls, here’s hoping these beautiful photos, taken by Tim Stephanos, a retired social worker, motivate you to see up close what you’ve been missing. Along the Umpqua River portion of the Highway of Waterfalls (which also extends to the Rogue), you’ll find 10 waterfalls, many within a short walk or drive from the highway. Travel time from the first waterfall to the last is only about 90 minutes, but you’ll need much more time than that to get back to the falls, enjoy the scenery, eat your picnic and commune with nature. So plan to make a day of it. On your way upriver, stop in Glide for provisions and to take in another whitewater wonder. At the entrance to town, just off the highway, pull into the Colliding Rivers Viewpoint, where you can witness the North Umpqua and Little River converging almost head-on. The chaotic churn will serve as the perfect appetizer for the eye feast that lies ahead.
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Fall Creek Falls
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Toketee Falls
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Clearwater Falls
On your trip, the best-known of the falls you will encounter is Toketee Falls, about 58 miles east of Roseburg. Named for Chinook Jargon that means “pretty” or “graceful,” Toketee drops about 120 feet in two tiers. It flows from the North Umpqua River, so it avoids seasonal fluctuations, making it a popular year-round destination for waterfall enthusiasts. It is difficult-to-impossible to get down to the falls, but a viewing platform provides a spectacular vantage point. While it is the most famous of the area’s waterfalls, Toketee isn’t the first stop on an eastbound tour up Hwy 138. You’ll first encounter Deadline Falls, a short but powerful fall where you might be able to see steelhead or salmon jumping en route from the Pacific Ocean. Next up is Susan Creek Falls, a 50-foot fan-type waterfall with an easy access trail, then Fall Creek Falls, a two-tiered fall that drops a total of 85 feet and is a little more difficult to reach. Just six miles away, Steamboat Falls is about five miles off the highway, but features an easy trail in. From now through October, steelhead are often
seen attempting to jump to the top of the 25-foot fall. Toketee comes next, then it’s just two miles to Watson Falls, the highest waterfall in southwest Oregon and third-highest in Oregon. Pull off Hwy 138 and into the parking lot, and you’ll catch a glimpse of the top of the elegant 272-foot falls. A bridge over Watson Creek offers excellent viewing. Whitehorse Falls is a 15-foot punch bowl type fall, while Clearwater Falls drops 30 feet into a pool and is a short walk from Clearwater Falls campground. Next, Warm Springs Falls is a blocktype fall that drops 70 feet into the pool below. The trail ends above the falls, providing a spectacular viewpoint. Your final stop is Lemolo Falls, a powerful 165-foot fall. Lemolo is another Chinook Jargon word meaning “wild” or “untamed.” Enough said. While we focused on the waterfalls along the North Umpqua River, there are more than 80 waterfalls throughout Douglas County. For more information on them, visit experienceroseburg.com.
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Wolf Creek Falls
Grotto Falls
Warm Springs Falls
Susan Creek Falls Deadline Falls
Fall Creek Falls
Toketee Falls 138
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Lemolo Falls
Whitehorse Falls Clearwater Falls
Wolf Creek Falls
Roseburg
Yakso Falls
Watson Falls
Diamond Lake
Shadow Falls
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Crater Lake
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Olivia Manley poses for her grandfather in front of Susan Creek Falls.
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“The Highway of Waterfalls stretches east from Roseburg past Diamond Lake and Crater Lake and covers some of the most beautiful terrain in America.�
Shadow Falls
Deadline Falls
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If You Are Behind on Rent, Mortgage or Utility Payments
FREE HELP MAY BE AVAILABLE If you have been impacted by the COVID-19 crisis, you may qualify for funds to pay your rent, mortgage or utilities through UCAN, a local not-for-profit organization serving Douglas and Josephine counties. The federal CARES Act has expanded the availability of these funds to more people than ever. If your income is at or below 80% of the Area Median Income, you may qualify for up to 6 months of rental, mortgage or utility support, including payment of past due amounts.
Don’t miss out on the chance to benefit from this free financial assistance. Contact UCAN (see below) for complete information.
UNITED COMMUNITY ACTION NETWORK
Contact UCAN to learn if you qualify and to complete an application. Rental and Mortgage Support: 541.672.5392 Utility Relief: 541.672.3421 DCCM@ucancap.org
OUTDOORS
8 HOURS ON THE ROAD / CURES FOR CABIN FEVER
8 HOURS ON THE ROAD A Toronto native turned Eugene resident shares her experience touring the Umpqua region for the first time on the back of her beloved motorcycle. Story by Ella Morgan Photos by Thomas Boyd
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OUTDOORS
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irst, I will admit, I’m not from around here. I grew up in Toronto, Canada, and that’s a long way from the Umpqua Valley, eh?
Nonetheless, I got to take a breathtaking tour of many of the rivers, lakes, forests, peaks and towns of the region this spring on my Yamaha V-Star 750 and over the course of the longest ride of my life.
I’d never so much as sat on a bike until I moved to Eugene a few years ago to attend the University of Oregon, where I recently earned my degree. But once I did, it was love at first ride. I rode every chance I got, including to work at a coffee shop in downtown Eugene. That’s where I met Tom Boyd, chief photographer for AHM Brands and this magazine and a fellow motorcycle enthusiast. One day he suggested we take a ride through this unknown region with the intriguing epithet, “the 100 Valleys of the Umpqua.” He would shoot photographs; I would write about my experience. When I awoke at 6:50 a.m. on a Monday, the sun was already well on its way to risen (happens a lot, I know, but I hadn’t been awake for many 6:50 in the mornings), and the dew on the grass was already evaporating. Finishing the last of my coffee and packing a small lunch, I threw on my leather jacket, chaps and boots, threw myself onto the back of my bike and pointed it south. Little did I know it would be eight hours before I’d return home (my longest bike trip to this point was about four hours). Over the course of 390 miles, muscles would start to ache that I didn’t know I had, and I would feel every slight bump in the road, every temperature change and, I swear, the sad splat of every single bug that met its demise on my helmet. One would have thought some of them would have been deflected by my travel companion, Boyd, a ways in front of me on his Yamaha XSR 900. But it sure didn’t feel like it. It was 9 a.m. by the time Boyd led me into downtown Roseburg, the hub of our trip. From there we headed east toward our first
stop, Diamond Lake. By the time we hit the Umpqua National Forest and the rushing turquoise North Umpqua River, I was in full-on awestruck mode. Trees were blooming, the sun warm and bright. It was the perfect day to ride. Riding along this winding, scenic byway, and above the crystal clear North Umpqua, I found myself wondering if locals ever take for granted their easy access to this natural wonder. The more miles that passed the easier it was to convince myself that would be impossible. We made a quick pit stop at the hiking entrance to Toketee Falls, one of Oregon’s more famous waterfalls, and further on Watson Falls, tallest waterfall in southwest Oregon. One of the best feelings about riding is the heightened sense of awareness. Regardless of how many people tag along, it is a very solitary venture, and you are very exposed to and keenly aware of the environment as you pass through it. Boyd and I arrived at Diamond Lake just in time for lunch. The lake was quiet and tranquil. I walked out on the dock and, with the lake spread wide around me and Mount Bailey standing tall above it, I suddenly felt very small. It was exceptional, and I was enjoying one of the best Monday mornings I could remember. This was almost the halfway marker for our trip, and I felt a sense of accomplishment, perhaps owing to my having been able to keep up with the more experienced Boyd to this point. We’d already climbed 5,000 feet but still had another four hours to go, so headed back onto Crater Lake Highway. As I admired the beautiful Mount Thielsen in my mirror, I would have sworn it never got any smaller, just more distant. We began the loopback on Tiller Highway with the sun shining bright, and soon I was questioning my decision to wear all black leather. With no other people or vehicles in sight, Boyd ripped his throttle and disappeared around the next bend. BACK TO NATURE
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OUTDOORS
We hadn’t spoken much to begin with, but this felt like the first time I was truly alone. This trip was the most time I had been out of the house since COVID-19 disrupted all of our lives. It was the perfect opportunity to finally be free to enjoy the acoustics of the outdoors. After making our last stop in Canyonville, we headed to Interstate 5 and the 100-minute straight shot back to Eugene.
back enough gas to get you where you need to go. But there are also better ways to wrap up a remarkable riding adventure.
After the unexpected delay, we finally rolled into Eugene, backs stiff and limbs numb or sore. We had been riding almost sunup to sundown. My hair was frizzy, even by curlyhair standards. I could Riding along this winding, scenic byway and barely hear, and my face was tingling from having above the crystal clear North Umpqua River, I spent so much time found myself wondering if locals ever take for squeezed into a helmet.
At least that was the granted their easy access to this natural wonder. Yet my experience plan. What wasn’t in riding through this the plan was running Umpqua paradise had out of gas. There are only further convinced me that there is nothing I’d rather do than worst things that can happen on a bike trip than having to wait mount up, turn on some music and hit the open road. alongside a freeway for your travel companion to fetch and bring
Ella Morgan’s first ride through Roseburg and the Umpqua Valley is one she won’t forget, even after her tired muscles finally forgive her.
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OUTDOORS
CURES FOR CABIN FEVER We’ve all waited a long time to get out and about. Here are three Umpqua Valley outdoor destinations that are worth that wait. Story by Nate Hansen Photos by Tim Stephanos
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f you only vaguely understood the definition of cabin fever before about mid-March, odds are you are far too familiar with it now. But what better way to get it out of your head than to set out through the spectacular beauty of the Umpqua Valley? Colliding rivers, piney peaks and old-growth forests give the Umpqua Valley an abundance of destinations for anyone wanting to get out of the house and into fresh air and natural surroundings. Here are a few of UV’s favorite destinations:
THE NORTH UMPQUA TRAIL Serious outdoorsmen have long hailed this trail–known to many as the “NUT”—as one of the Northwest’s most scenic destinations. But what makes the NUT especially appealing is it offers something for everyone: Hiking (from easy strolls to more challenging routes), mountain biking and horseback riding are all excellent options and will provide a memorable experience, whether you’re a rookie adventurer or Bear Grylls-style outdoor warrior. 62
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The North Umpqua Trail
OUTDOORS
Diamond Lake Lodge
TOKETEE FALLS Though Douglas County is blessed with a number of incredible waterfalls, Toketee might be the most breathtaking – and most photographed. Here the North Umpqua crashes through a narrow gorge and forms a two-tier falls that plunges down a sheer face of volcanic basalt. The upper falls drops about 40 feet into a pool whose overflow supplies the 80-foot lower falls. If one falls isn’t enough, there’s plenty more to be found within an easy drive of Roseburg. For a waterfall primer, see Page 42. DIAMOND LAKE Though not as famed as nearby Crater Lake, Diamond Lake is a scenic and recreational wonder in its own right. Nestled between two of the Oregon Cascades’ most formidable peaks
—Mount Bailey on the west, at 8,375-feet elevation, and 9,184foot Mount Thielsen on the east—Diamond Lake is the largest body of water in the Umpqua National Forest. Walking and bike trails surround the lake, and other summer recreational options include swimming, fishing and other warm-water aquatic activities. Nearby Thielsen offers a challenging hike that ends with a panoramic view. Diamond Lake Resort has overnight accommodations, but the lake is close enough to Roseburg that a day trip can be made with ease. To learn more about these and other outdoor options this summer, visit www.experienceroseburg.com/outdoors
Mt. Bailey over Diamond Lake.
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BUSINESS
BUSINESS IS BLOOMING / GREAT ESCAPE
BUSINESS IS BLOOMING The Umpqua Valley has long been known as fertile ground for grapes, blueberries and a wide range of other high-quality products of nature, including, more recently, lavender. Story by Brittany Arnold
Photo by Jonathan Cummings
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leisurely drive through the Umpqua Valley is a trip through a scenic paradise offering wide-open spaces, rolling vineyards, blankets of orchards and fields of lush green. Adding a spray of captivating purples and blues to this colorful quilted landscape is a relative newcomer to the valley.
The emergence of lavender farms throughout Roseburg and the surrounding area has started to catch the attention not just of locals, but also outsiders, including businesses and investors. “The Umpqua Valley has a microclimate and the perfect soil for lavender,” says Keri Kovach Roid, owner of Growing Miracles Lavender Garden. “It has the right temperatures and right amounts of rain and sun. We have perfect conditions for it.” The beginning of Roid’s lavender venture is the stuff of a real-life farm fairytale. After living a big-city corporate life for 32 years, Roid was encouraged by her childhood friend, Howard Sand, to move back to her hometown Roseburg. Sand also provided her the motivation to finally start the lavender farm she had always talked about, even offering her a section of his family hazelnut farm, Wesley Orchards, off Lower Garden Valley Road. Roid planted her first batch of lavender shortly after moving back to Roseburg in 2016. “Obviously it is beautiful to look at, but also the smell is amazing, the sound, the feel…and you can eat it. It just literally touches all your senses,” she says. “I kept this dream in my head and figured that it 64
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would never happen, and then it happened. It’s a Hallmark movie, hence the name Growing Miracles.” Every Hallmark story includes a love affair, and Roid’s is no exception. She and Sand are now engaged to be married. The 80-acre farm they operate together now includes 3,700 lavender and is the site of their annual lavender festival which last year attracted some 9,500 people. “I kept telling Howard, ‘We had 9,500 people at our house!’ It just reinforces that this community is a tourist destination,” says Roid, who also helps other new farms get off – or out of – the ground by propagating and sharing about 12,000 baby lavender plants. Southwest of Roseburg, in Tenmile, McLeod’s Lavender is one of the newer farms Roid has supplied. Owner Melanie McLeod Prummer agrees that lavender farms are helping attract tourists to the area. “With the tourism in the wine industry, this just adds something to that,” she said. Like Roid, Prummer fell in love with the way lavender made her feel. She moved to the United States from Australia at age 21 and has worked in non-profit management since, the last eight years as the executive director of Peace at Home Advocacy Center. “Mental health work can be emotionally draining,” she says. “In 2017, I went to two farms and picked lavender. I realized that being with the lavender, cutting it and processing it, I felt rejuvenated. It brought me joy.”
BUSINESS
From her first experience on that lavender farm, Prummer took home not only a dream of starting a farm, but also some Provence lavender, which her husband used to make sausage. The McLeod’s farm now specializes in culinary lavender. The lavender sausage has been their biggest hit, selling out the first day at the local farmer’s market. Other McLeod products featuring their lavender include jelly, syrup, coconut oil scrub, shea butter scrub, chocolate blueberries, fudge, apples and Scottish shortbread. While Prummer enjoys experimenting with new food items infused with lavender, she also has plans to develop a signature oil using Australian Eagerton Blue, a lavender that is fairly uncommon in the U.S.. Both Growing Miracles Lavender Garden and McLeod’s Lavender are open to the public. McLeod’s is by appointment only. Products can be ordered via the farm’s Facebook page. Growing Miracles Lavender Garden also offers products online at growingmiracleslavendergarden.com Products from both farms can be found in several local stores and farmers markets.
Photo by Jonathan Cummings
Melanie McLeod Prummer (photo by Thomas Boyd)
In July, JosephJane Winery released its second batch of the popular lavender wine, a rosé featuring pinot gris and cabinet sauvignon for the blend. The infused Folgate lavender comes from Growing Miracles Lavender Garden just down the road from JosephJane which offers woodfired pizza to accompany its wines. It’s located at 155 Lower Garden Valley Road in Roseburg. Hours vary; check their Facebook page for updates.
Keri Kovach Roid and Howard Sand (photo by Jonathan Cummings)
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BUSINESS
GREAT ESCAPE At a time when getting back to nature seems like a really good idea, the refurbished Lemolo Lake KOA offers a peaceful place to unwind away from the crowd. Story by David Shroyer Photos by Jonathan Cummings
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fter weeks of quarantining and avoiding crowds, many people have been looking for a quiet summer spot to relax, unplug, unwind or all of the above.
Visitors seeking more strenuous activities can choose from six waterfall hikes or visit Crater Lake National Park or Umpqua Hot Springs—all within 20 miles of Lemolo.
In Lemolo Lake KOA, owner Jim Judson thinks he has just such a place. High in the Cascades (4,075 feet elevation) and deep in the Umpqua National Forest, the campground (officially “Lemolo Lake/Crater Lake North KOA”) is a 90-minute drive east of Roseburg on the North Umpqua Highway.
Started as a work camp for Pacific Power employees during dam construction, the campground has grown to 24 RV sites, eight tent sites, and 11 cabins—with onsite bathrooms and showers. But one of Lemolo’s most appealing features is its quiet roominess, even when at capacity.
As the name implies, the campground is situated on the shore of Lemolo Lake, a 540-acre reservoir impounding water for two Pacific Power hydroelectric projects that went online in the 1950s.
“It never feels swarmed when it’s full,” says Judson. “There is lots of room for everybody to spread out and find their own space.”
Just a dozen miles north of better-known Diamond Lake, Lemolo (Chinook jargon for “wild” or “untamed”) is a world away in terms of development. “We tell people to expect quiet and dark,” says Judson, who purchased the campground in 2018 with his wife, Anita. “We are in the middle of the forest. There’s no highway traffic, airplane or town noise and no city lights. It truly gets dark.” Those conditions make Lemolo an ideal star-gazing spot. With little ambient light to interfere, the night sky over the lake is often ablaze with points of light in the millions—the kind of night-time feature that photographers dream about.
Obviously, personal space has taken on even more importance during the COVID-19 pandemic, and to help visitors avoid exposure the Judsons have extra precautions. Lemolo Lake/Crater Lake North KOA is pet-friendly and its season runs through Halloween. Besides hiking and biking, the lake offers fishing and boating. And of course, that starry night sky. To learn more or to make reservations, go to www.lemololakeresort.com or phone 541-643-0750.
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COMING SOON It’s Hair O’ Clock Somewhere! Now serving the coolest styles and the wettest beverages. (Enjoy a glass of beer or wine with your cut)
OPENING 2020 Assisted Living and Memory Care community including studio, one-, and two-bedroom apartments and care
------Guided by goodness, loyalty, faith, and fun
services as needed. Call for an appointment or book online: 541.492.2858 HairGarageRoseburg.com
Come home to The Landing.
a Compass Senior Living community
For more information, visit us at LandingSL.com or call The Landing at 541.672.9696.
New downtown location with parking! 1035 Oak Ave · Corner of Oak and Kane
Travel Back In Time! LAVENDER
Douglas County Museum 123 Museum Dr Roseburg, 97470 541.957.7007 Umpqua River Lighthouse Museum 1020 Lighthouse Rd Winchester Bay 541.271.1894
GARDEN
508 Lower Garden Valley Rd, Roseburg, OR 97471
umpquavalleymuseums.org
1924
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oad OR
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Travel Back in Time Our Museums are open yearround….. Bring the family and enjoy a day
Ordering Online at growingmiracleslavendergarden.com Call: (541) 817-6111 Facebook: @GrowingMiraclesLavenderGarden Instagram: @growingmiracleslavendergarden COMPLIMENTARY OF BURT MARKETING GROUP.
Vanessa Vu, MD, PhD Anesthesiologist
Still Here For You. Still Caring. Still Safe. In these unusual times, it can be hard to be sure what you can do and where you can go. But we at Mercy Medical Center want you to know if you need medical or surgical care, you don’t have to delay it. We’re as ready as ever to provide the high-quality care you need. And, if you do need our services, you can rest assured that our commitment to your safety – which has been among the highest rated in America – has never been stronger.
Don’t delay the care you need. We’re here for you, and safer than ever.
541.673.0611 2700 Stewart Parkway chimercyhealth.com
HEALTH
BUSY AS A BEEKEEPER / TEAMING UP TO FIGHT COVID-19 / READY, WILLING, AND ABLE
BUSY AS A BEEKEEPER Jack Reilly and fellow members of the Douglas County Bees are playing important roles in helping reduce the potentially dangerous effects of a continued decline in the world’s bee population Story by Sarah Smith Photos by Thomas Boyd
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n a ridgetop in Umpqua Valley, in the shadow of oak trees, Jack Reilly spends a quiet afternoon inspecting his beehive. It’s a peaceful distraction and a hobby Reilly has enjoyed for 20 years, but it’s also important work.
Bees are among the hardest-working creatures on the planet. Their powers of pollination are essential to the reproduction of many cultivated and wild plants, which is crucial to food production, human livelihoods and biodiversity. Without bees, it would be a serious challenge to sustain the world’s population of 7 billion humans.
Yet the world’s bee population faces serious challenges of its own. "Bees are under great threat from the combined effects of climate change, intensive agriculture, pesticides use, biodiversity loss and pollution," writes José Graziano da Silva, director-general of the Food and Agriculture Organization, on the group’s website. "The absence of bees and other pollinators would wipe out coffee, apples, almonds, tomatoes and cocoa to name just a few of the crops that rely on pollination.” Despite an alarming report published by the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service that estimates America is losing one-third of the nation's 2.46 million colonies each year, bee conservation is blooming. The world is taking notice, thanks in part to 2007’s Bee Movie (an animated tale that follows a honeybee who sues the human race for exploiting bees), scientists (like Thomas Seeley, the world’s leading expert on bee behavior), Save the Bees campaigns and local beekeepers like Reilly. Reilly is president of Douglas County Bees (DCBees), an organization established in 2014 whose mission is: “To educate about bees, have a local connection for people with bees, and to show all just how fun being a beekeeper can be.” The 100-person group is composed of those who have never had bees, or newbies (pun intended), beginners and experienced. 70
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HEALTH
Beekeeper Jack Reilly tending to his hive.
Americans have bees to thank for one in every three bites of food we eat.
A bee master and past student of the Oregon State Master Beekeeper Program, Reilly is tending one hive this year after installing a “nuc” (for nucleus) colony in early May. Nucs are small honeybee colonies created from larger colonies. “Nucs are a much better way to start a hive than the two-pound bee boxes sold at some locations. They already have comb and the young are already being raised,” says Reilly. “I only have one hive because of where I live. Bees will travel up to three to five miles for nectar and pollen, but the further they have to go, the more energy (honey and pollen) is used. Bees need a local food source, so you can’t put too many hives in a poor location.” Like Reilly, most of DCBees’ members have a single hive; however, some who live on farms that require bees for pollination have multihive apiaries. When bees break off from a hive, they sometimes find shelter in places they’re not welcome, like chimneys, trees or dumpsters. Instead of spraying the bees with pesticides or hiring an exterminator, a local beekeeper may be able to safely relocate them. Annually, DCBees receives 24 to 30 or more requests for bee or swarm removals. Extracting bees from buildings is considerably more difficult than collecting swarm clusters (most are transitory and generally don’t need to be managed). A well-established colony may have up to 100 pounds of honey, bees (adult and developing) and beeswax combs, making its removal challenging.
The first step is to determine the exact location of the combs and size of the colony. Dressed in beekeeper suits, club volunteers vacuum the bees into a box and spray any remaining bees with a sugar solution to calm them down. The box is left overnight, and the next morning the beekeepers pick it up and relocate the hive to a suitable space. Americans have bees to thank for one in every three bites of food we eat. Because of their importance to food crops, the efforts of local beekeepers and organizations like Douglas County Bees are more important than ever. Here are five easy ways to help support those efforts and help the bee population, courtesy of #savethebees from Heifer International: Allow dandelions and clover to grow. Avoid using pesticides and herbicides. Plant a bee garden. Shop responsibly. “Bee” informed.
For more information about Douglas County Bees, call 541-375-0393, visit its Facebook page or go to douglascountybees.org.
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HEALTH
TEAMING UP TO FIGHT COVID-19 Mercy Foundation helps coordinate efforts to protect local residents from COVID-19 by turning generous donations into PPE and distributing it throughout Douglas County. Story by Jim Hays
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ou probably haven’t noticed Mercy Foundation’s work helping keep Douglas County residents safe from the COVID-19 virus. Collecting donated PPE (personal protection equipment) and making sure it gets to the people who need it isn’t exactly a public attention-grabber.
But foundation president Lisa Platt and her staff don’t mind the low profile. They’re more interested in how they can help. And they have certainly done that. Already involved in numerous Douglas County health initiatives, the foundation team shifted gears when the COVID-19 emergency struck and quickly got its own response up and running. Their first initiative was to establish a community collection site for PPE. Platt and staff members got on the phones to solicit local businesses for donations to provide masks, gowns, gloves, face-shields and other equipment that would be distributed to anyone needing it. “We hoped people would donate to us, and they did,” Platt says. More than 70 individuals and businesses contributed money or materials to the foundation, which turned the donations into PPE for people in many different walks of Douglas County life. Among the donors was a 10-year-old Roseburg girl who sent in money she receive for her birthday and requested it be used in the foundation’s efforts. Recipients included medical workers at Mercy Medical Center, first-responders, emergency medical technicians and Douglas County Public Health Network staff. But medical personnel weren’t the only beneficiaries. Grocery clerks, gas station attendants, postal workers, delivery people and drive-through food and coffee servers also received the gear necessary to keep them and their customers safe. 72 72
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“Our team is used to doing a lot of community outreach,” says Platt. “Everyone pitched in and helped where their skill set was applicable.” Foundation employees staffed a COVID-19 hotline. Nurses put in extra hours as screeners. Platt and the foundation’s grant writer worked to obtain money from the Federal Emergency Management Agency to supplement local donations. Their efforts, and those of other community groups, have no doubt helped reduce the impact of COVID-19 throughout the region. As of July, Douglas County had confirmed fewer than 40 cases of the virus among a population of more than 112,000. That ranked Douglas County 29th among Oregon’s 36 counties in the number of Covid-19 cases per 1,000 population, according to the Oregon Health Authority. Platt knows the job isn’t over, however. “We’ve been very fortunate,” she says. “But we need to continue our social distancing and wearing a mask in public. If we can continue that, we can maintain a low infection rate.” Meanwhile, the foundation continues its work in combatting human trafficking, domestic violence and diabetes, along with its program for maintaining children’s health. “We have been doing outreach for 14 years and people have been very giving,” Platt says.
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HELPING THE CAUSE The following individuals and businesses generously contributed to Douglas County’s COVID-19 initiative.
AAA of Roseburg Bailey Veterinary Clinic Bi-Mart Stores Caddock Enterprises Cardinal Services Cascade Optometry Companion Animal Clinic Jim Coon Costco Current Orthodontics Denise Martin Blooming Kindness Boutique Department of Justice Douglas County Association of Realtors Douglas County Co-op Douglas County Helpers Eden Dental Eveland Sandblasting FCC Commercial Furniture First Community Credit Union Fuller’s Pest Control Brock Goldbeck Mark Hamm, DMD Harbor Freight
Harvard Dental Healthy Kids Outreach Program Home Depot Nicole Jenkins Knife River Debra Koehler Kruse Farms LeMert Orthodontics Level Up Frozen Yogurt Long’s Pest Control Mahalo Heating & Air Kevin & Natalie McFarland Rick Miller Bentley Moore Motel 6—Roseburg Joshua Myers, DDS Mary Newman Dr. Jed Norman Northwest Heating & Cooling Oregon Serigraphics Pacific Air Comfort Dr. Alanson Randal Redeemer’s Fellowship Rick’s Medical Supply
Roseburg Honda Roseburg Refrigeration ServPro of Sutherlin Smiles Dental Roseburg South Coast Business Employment Corp. Rob & Lisa Stearns Swanson Group Ben Tatone Taylor’s Family Mortuary Umpqua Community College Umpqua Valley Builders Association Western Title & Escrow Dr. Weston Wildlife Safari Jemelene Wilson Dr. Leonard Wilson Winston & Green Valley Congregations of Jehovah’s Witnesses Dennis & Sky Woodz World’s Finest Chocolate (on behalf of Roseburg High School Band and Sunnyslope Elementary School)
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HEALTH
The purchasing and materials team at Mercy was instrumental in securing critical PPE for care providers.
READY, WILLING AND ABLE Mercy Medical Center collaborates with other health care providers to develop a county-wide preparedness plan in response to the COVID-19 threat. Story by Dick Baltus Photo by Robin Loznak
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here were warning signs that a potentially serious health challenge was in the air at the end of 2019, but the extent to which a new and highly contagious virus could impact America was unknown. So who could possibly know what to expect from COVID-19 in Douglas County?
Local health officials didn’t know much for certain, but that didn’t stop them from activating quickly once it became apparent COVID’s reach could be widespread and potentially deadly. Dr. Jason Gray, chief medical officer for CHI Mercy Health, started hearing and reading about COVID last December. At the time, it was a problem that was happening overseas. Even so, he was concerned about the potential implications closer to home. “It wasn’t long before I started paying closer attention, but information was sparse and what I could find was incomplete,” he says. Using the available information, Gray began comparing what he was learning about COVID with how similar contagions like SARS and MERS had acted, trying to arm himself with as much knowledge as he could about coronaviruses. By February, as the first domestic case of COVID was reported in neighboring Washington state, Gray knew it was time to mobilize locally.
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“We realized we needed to begin to formally prepare a coordinated community-wide response,” he says. “We invited representatives from Douglas County, Emergency Medical Services, Public Health and others to a meeting to discuss the potential impact on supplies, staffing and other resources.” One of that group’s first undertakings was to find a resource to supply the high volume of PPE (personal protective equipment) that would be needed to ensure the safety of staff and patients at Mercy Medical Center, its affiliated provider offices and in other medical clinics in Douglas County, such as Aviva Health and Umpqua Health as well as other front-line workers and first responders. “Our primary goal was to keep our healthcare staff and first responders safe,” says Gray. “We had to consider the uncomfortable question of ‘Who will take care of the caretakers if they contract the disease?’”
The Veterans Affairs Medical Center also has played an important role in the community response, helping repurpose and extend the use of N95 masks and agreeing to handle patients if needed. “The VA would take some of our less-acute patients if needed,” Gray says. “That would include patients who weren’t veterans. Getting permission to do that took quite a bit of leadership at the local level, and we really appreciate that.” Gray adds that he has been impressed with the way Douglas County’s community of care providers has come together to ensure an extremely high level of preparedness. “It’s been amazing to see everyone work together, learn new skills as needed, focus on preserving supplies in their own practices and more, all while they are doing their normal jobs of taking care of patients. It’s one of the benefits of living in smaller town—when a crisis happens, everybody comes together.”
By February, as the first domestic case of COVID was reported in neighboring Washington state, Dr. Jason Gray knew it was time to mobilize locally. While local providers traditionally have relied on importers for much of their PPE, the pandemic required them to find other, more reliable sources. “The incredible purchasing and materials team at Mercy, partnering with Douglas Public Health Network, was able to source some PPE domestically, and our community stepped up in a big way with businesses donating N95 masks, even manufacturing reusable and washable gowns. Community volunteers also sewed and donated face coverings, masks and surgical bonnets,” says Gray. Many other community supporters also stepped in to help. Oregon Serigraphics and FCC Commercial Furniture were instrumental in creating PPE for the community, and Caddock Electronics underwrote a large purchase of N95 masks. “At this point in time we have a stable supply of PPE,” Gray says. “We are well prepared if we were to see a spike in COVID cases locally.” Beyond obtaining needed supplies, the community group worked together to define their specific roles and responsibilities to ensure a highly coordinated response to potentially rapidly changing conditions. The county established a dedicated incident command team to oversee the coordination of community activities and public health, while Mercy assumed the natural role of caring for inpatients, quickly working to ensure the hospital was ready. “In March, we converted one of our units into a ward that could be devoted exclusively to COVID patients if needed,” Gray explains. “That enabled us to add 30 COVID-dedicated beds as well as six critical-care beds that were staffed and ready to go. Fortunately, we never had to use them, but we kept that ward ready for about a month. It was a good exercise to go through because now we have a playbook and, if needed, we can set it up again within a 72-hour period.”
To date, only a handful of patients have been hospitalized at Mercy with COVID symptoms, Gray says. Most people who have presented with symptoms have been healthy enough to receive care at home. But if conditions change, Mercy is prepared. “I am quite confident we can handle a fairly large surge if it should happen.” In May, Mercy resumed treating patients for elective procedures and, while volumes aren’t back to normal, they are getting close, Gray says. “We’re within about 10 percent of normal,” he says. “There are still people who are hesitant about getting care during this time, but now is probably the best time to be having an elective procedure given everyone’s heightened awareness of infection prevention and commitment to patient safety.” While Douglas County’s care providers are now well prepared to handle what COVID may bring in the future, Gray says the community plays a critical role in limiting the virus’s potential impact locally. He stresses the importance of preventive care, including social distancing, wearing masks, washing hands frequently and getting a flu shot early in the fall. “Wearing a mask may not be comfortable, but the benefits to other people are immense,” he says. “It’s a simple measure that can really help prevent the spread of this virus and help speed the return of our community to some semblance of normalcy one again.”
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25,000 copies distributed throughout Douglas County and Oregon. Four-month’s exposure to multiple thousands of readers. Help ensure UV can continue promoting our great region. For rate and other information about one of the best advertising values in Douglas County, contact: brittanyarnold@outlook.com or editor@theuvlife.com
LAST WORD
I am a recent transplant to Roseburg from, yes, you guessed it, California. But although I am a new resident, I was no stranger to Roseburg before moving here.
Changing For The Better THE UMPQUA VALLEY LOOKS A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN WHEN THIS CALIFORNIA TRANSPLANT VISITED AS A CHILD. By Sarah Stacey
I grew up visiting Roseburg every summer for as long as I can remember. My mother is from Glide, so I have spent countless summers crawdad fishing, hiking and swimming along Little River. My grandmother would teach me how to spin wool and tend her garden, and my uncle would take me on crazy adventures up and down the river. As a child, I knew Roseburg as the land of endless forests, coffee kiosks, a slightly awkward (but also charming) mall, While Away Books and The Bagel Tree—my all-time childhood favorite. As an outsider and sometime visitor, I watched Roseburg change over the years. That outdated mall has been upgraded dramatically with new tenants like Planet Fitness, Ulta, Marshall’s and Sportsman’s Warehouse. The winery industry has grown impressively, and there are now excellent specialty coffee shops in town, vibrant breweries and great restaurants. In my early visits to Roseburg, my mom and I would always lament our 5 a.m. family fishing trips because there was no Starbucks to help us wake up. That situation would soon change as well. (Interestingly, the first Starbucks opened here not long after Mom wrote the corporation asking it to make it so. Coincidence? We still aren’t sure.) The best part about all the changes I have seen is they haven’t changed the character of my new hometown. Roseburg may not be the small town it was when I was a child, but it hasn’t lost any of its charm. In other words, Roseburg is still a rare jewel. I cherish the moments I spend with my friends and family here. I like that, almost anywhere I go, I will see someone I know. I like that on my way home, I get to see acre after acre of vineyards. I like seeing people dance like no one is watching at Music on the Half Shell, and I will certainly miss that one-of-a-kind community event this summer. I like packing into Lighthouse Bakery on a Sunday with what seems like half of Roseburg’s population. All these things and many others are quintessentially Roseburg to me. I feel very fortunate that I get to raise my daughter here. She will get to know all of Roseburg as an insider instead of the bits and pieces that I experienced as a visitor. The summers on the Umpqua River, the winters nestled in a cozy coffee shop with family and friends, will help define her childhood and create beautiful lifetime memories. I am so proud to now be living here and to be a full-time resident of this wonderful community. I thought I would miss California and my city lifestyle. But once I got here, I never looked back.
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