How to: Lakemba Ramadan Markets

WORDS BY ARSHMAH JAMAL ILLUSTRATIONS BY SAPPHIRE GOLDBERG

CW: RACISM AND ISLAMOPHOBIA

Perhaps this is obvious, but please don’t go to Lakemba with the intention of ‘snacking’. Some of the food stalls are only open for Ramadan, so make the most of it!

Bring cash! Most, if not all, of the stalls do not take card. There is an ATM; however, there is always a huge line.

Share the food with your friends! The plastic boxes you get are filled to the brim. If you’re trying to get a bite of everything, it’s best if you share that one box. Otherwise, you’ll fill up quickly!

Don’t drive there. Seriously, use public

To Stall Or Not To Stall

Murtabak AT THE STALL OUTSIDE BEST PRICE SUPERMARKET

Murtabak is griddle-fried roti stuffed with spiced meat or egg. This stall’s one is probably one of the best as they make it to order. It has a good kick of spice, but it’s not chilli.

Ramadan is the 9th month of the Islamic calendar, which changes slightly every year in relation to the Gregorian calendar, when practising Muslims fast from dawn to dusk, breaking their fast with prayer, food, and friends. Every year during Ramadan, Haldon Street in Lakemba is closed off to accommodate a cornucopia of food stalls, that one random uncle who got his hands on a microphone, and the bustle of crowds. Last year, there were close to a million people coming to the markets during the month, which was four times the crowd compared to 2019. Due to the growing popularity of the event and a heightened respect for Islamic culture, 2023 is sure to have more. Compiled is a list of ‘underdog’ food stalls for our dear Vertigo readers to visit during Ramadan this year (from around the 22nd of March to the 20th of April)!

Jalebi AT DHAKA DELIGHTS

Pre-warning: this dessert is overly sweet but a fan favourite. Jalebi is dough, deep-fried in a circular pattern, then doused in sugar syrup. It’s made fresh, so you’ll burn your fingers when they give it to you (but at least it’s delicious!).

transport. The street is a minute away from Lakemba station. You will be waiting for a spot for so long, you’ll most likely leave. Plus, public transport = good for the environment!

Be respectful. This is basic manners, but it’s important to be kind to the stallholders and the people around you. Don’t be immature or condescending. Also, be patient! The large crowds across the street are not their fault.

It’s important to know that multiple stalls have the same food. You want that one camel burger but the line's too long? No worries, walk up the street, and you'll find another one. However, some stalls specialise in one specific type of food that you won't be able to get anywhere else (shout out to the sahlab at Yummy Yummy Knafeh). Here's a list of favourites, but be sure to try out all the stalls!

Knafeh AT KNAFEH AL ANDALOS

Knafeh Bros has nothing on this. It’s the perfect balance of sweetness and not too overpowering. To wash it down, get the mint tea or the piping hot and rich sahlab.

Biryani and haleem AT KHUSHBOO

It’s flavourful, it’s warm, and it’s hefty! You have an option of beef and goat for the biryani (spiced rice), and the haleem is a lentil and beef stew. Get a box with both and share with the gang.

Satay and roti AT ISLAND DREAMS CAFE

Originating from Christmas and Cocos Islands, the satay here is famous. You have an option of lamb or chicken, and it’s made fresh. It’s tender, spicy, smoky, and the best I’ve ever tried.

Turkish sand coffee (I FORGOT THE STALL NAME)

Made on a bed of hot sand, it’s aromatic and very strong. Good palette cleanser!

Bakdash ice cream AT BAKDASH

Listen, get this at the end. It’s smooth, covered in pistachio, and you can taste the rose water. It’s a sweet note to finish the markets on!