Wanderlust by Heidi Larsen

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TRAVEL TODAY 10 TOP DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD CLIMBING CLIMATES CAN EARTH’S TREASURES COPE?

AUTHENTIC EATS

FROM COAST TO COAST P 15 AUTHENTIC EATS STYLE YOUR TRIP AND TREATS

WHO SAYS IT CAN’T BE P3 BOTH FASHIONABLE THE ICELANDIC AND FUNCTIONAL? ADVENTURES P 87

FEATURES

SHELTERSHELTER YOUR SHELTER YOUR SHELTER Call of the Wild EXPLORE

this seasons thisimpact seasonson impact on your travelling your travelling destina- destinations andtions places. and places.

ALASKA CALLING

Road trips are like childbirth. Done right, they can be the adventure of a lifetime. Done wrong, and you’re screaming for painkillers.

am a cheap traveler with a quest to see the world while

plan to be confined in a car with for hours on end. Of course, a long road trip in the car can be a great opportunity to get to

tempt to save money. Here’s a few road trip planning tips

know someone better. But if you’re thinking of tagging along with people who normally irritate the crap out of you just to save a little dough – think about flying instead.

ing and dishes while camping or driving to your next destina-

As a woman, I’ve never understood those couples where

tion. Top off the water tank each time you stop at a campsite.

the man is the only who does the driving. This is especially

Prevent unnecessary waste by brushing your teeth with a cup

true when driving long distances. If you can manage to get

of water instead of leaving the faucet running. Buy disposable

yourself around town by yourself, you can handle a turn at the

1010

plates and plastic ware to save water on washing dishes.

wheel for a road trip. It’s nice to get a break from the driving.

Stock up on food. Travel trailers have plenty of storage space

1212

the window and trying really, really hard not to say anything when the other driver gets really, really close to the car in front

meals. Don’t forget marshmallows. If you are feeding an infant,

of him. I mean, you know, for example. Don’t be afraid to do

take along plenty of formula, juice and diaper supplies. Healthy

some of the driving. Do you remember in the 80s when you had

snacks for older children should be packed with energy for

mixed tapes for everything? First Date Mix. Prom Night Mix.

strenuous activities such as hiking or playing volleyball. Carry

Ode To My Love For You Mix. A road trip is the perfect excuse

maps or use a GPS device. Stick to main roads and freeways.

to revive the mix (although it will probably take the form of a

They are usually the fastest, most hassle-free route from A to

burned CD or a playlist on your iPod).

children may play while traveling.

David Castloff Britt Reints

Prepare yourself for inevitable stereo static with ample back up music. Bring twice as much as you think you’ll listen to. My

I’ve owned a few beater cars in my life. I’ve taken more

playlists (because I am an iSnob) are crammed with cheesy

than one road trip in a lemon. And I’ve been stuck on the side

songs I know the words to, musical soundtracks and nostalgic

of the road in the middle of nowhere more times than I care to

favorites. Don’t be afraid to turn it up and sing along at the

admit. Be ye not so stupid.

top of your lungs. The chances of you ever seeing that driver

Make sure your vehicle is road trip ready before you leave.

TEXT

It’s also nice to get a break from just sitting and watching out

for canned food. Make use of it by stocking plenty of canned meats, ravioli, spaghetti and macaroni and cheese for “instant”

B. Carry a good stock of batteries for flashlights and games

PHOTOGRAPHY

trip, the more compatible you better be with the person you

hanging on to as much of my cash as possible. Needless to say, I’ve taken my share of vacations by car in an at-

I’ve picked up along the way. Make sure that the travel trailer’s water tank is full. You will need lots of water for bathing, drink-

who’s giving you funny looks from the car beside you again

Have the oil changed, fill up on windshield wiper fluid and

are slim to none. Unless you happen to stop at the same rest

make sure you have your license, registration and insurance up

stop. Maybe I’m the only person to ever get sunburned through

to date – and actually in the car with you. Good companion-

a car window – but I doubt it. And I know for a fact that I’m

ship can make all the difference on a road trip. The longer the

not the only person in my marriage who has had to stop at a

THE ICELAND THE ICELAND DIARY DIARY

one couple onerecalls coupletheir recalls their unforgettable unforgettable roadtrip roadtrip to Icelandto together. Iceland together.

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

DINING WITH DINING CULTURE WITH CULTURE

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

Get to know Get atolittle know a little about Japan’s about beautiful Japan’s beautiful mountanoes mountanoes culture. culture.

The Kitchen Hall FOOD & RECIPES

11616

KALE CHIPS

These are a low calorie nutritious snack, and very easy to make. 1 bunch kale 1 T olive oil 1 tsp salt

AUTHENTIC AUTHENTIC EATS EATS

Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Line a non insulated cookie sheet with parchment paper.With a knife or kitchen shears carefully remove the leaves from the thick stems and tear into bite size pieces. Wash and thoroughly dry kale with a salad spinner. Drizzle kale with olive oil and sprinkle with seasoning salt. Bake until the edges brown but are not burnt, 10 to 15 minutes.

1919

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ON THE COVER ON THE COVER

CONTENTS

Staff

PEACH SALAD

WHAT TOWHAT PACKTO PACK

this seasons thisimpact seasonson impact on your travelling your travelling destina destina tions andtions places. and places.

Here’s a colorful salad with a wide range of tastes and textures that go together so well. There are sweet peaches, tart lemon, tangy vinegars and all kinds of crunch from greens, bacon and nuts. 4 medium ripe peaches, peeled 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup canola oil 6 cups spring mix salad greens 4 cups torn romaine 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1/2 cup thinly sliced cucumber 6 bacon strips, cooked and crumbled 1/3 cup chopped pecans, toasted

Slice three peaches; set aside. Cut the remaining peach in half; place in a blender. Add the sugar, lemon juice, vinegars and salt; cover and process until blended. While processing, gradually add oil in a steady stream. In a large bowl, combine the salad greens, romaine, onion and cucumber. Pour about 2/3 cup dressing over salad and toss to coat. Transfer to a serving platter; top with sliced peaches and bacon.

DEPARTMENTS

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

FINDING NIRVANA

EATING LOCAL

Join Mark as he climbs Mount Everest while battling cancer.

Discover hidden culinary jewels in the heart of the Yunon Mountains.

CULTURE

WANDERLUST WANDERLUST WANDERLUST WINTER WINTER 2012 2012WINTER 2012 2

this seasons thisimpact seasonson impact on your travelling your travelling destina destina tions andtions places. and places.

-Kiki of the village shows us a little about the culture of her people.

WHAT TO PACK

this seasons impact on your travelling destina tions and places.

CHECK YOUR IMPULSE

Don’t waste money on those impulse buys. Save more money for your trip.

AUTHENTIC TREATS

We’ve collected some rare recipes on our travels that will have you treated out.

ZESTY GRILLED SHRIMP The style of the dish is Vietnamese, but the shrimp is pure Louisiana. Just grill until pink, and toss with a peanut-and-lime sauce. 2 limes 2 teaspoons fish sauce 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 pound (about 15) jumbo shrimp, shells on 2 teaspoons safflower oil Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh cilantro 1/2 cup salted peanuts, coarsely chopped 2 scallions, finely chopped Zest limes into a bowl. Squeeze in juice from 1 lime, and whisk in fish sauce and sugar.Preheat grill to high. Brush shrimp with oil on both sides, and lightly season with salt and pepper. Grill until pink and firm to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Toss shrimp with fish-sauce mixture, cilantro, peanuts, and scallions. Juice remaining lime over shrimp.

FEATURES FEATURES

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CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS 43

FINDING NIRVANA

EATING LOCAL

Join Mark as he climbs Mount Everest while battling cancer.

Discover hidden culinary jewels in the heart of the Yunon Mountains.

CULTURE

USER’S GUIDE

Don’t waste money! Our experts gathered together reviews of items worth investing in for your next trip.

WANDERLUSTWINTER WINTER2012 2012 WANDERLUST

-Kiki of the village shows us a little about the culture of her people.

WHAT TO PACK

this seasons impact on your travelling destina tions and places.

32 43

CHECK YOUR IMPULSE

Don’t waste money on those impulse buys. Save more money for your trip.

48 43

AUTHENTIC TREATS

We’ve collected some rare recipes on our travels that will have you treated out.

102 51

TRAVELER’S DIGEST

Something you’ve noticed, the travel trends: Why are they happening now?

USERS GUIDE

Don’t waste money! A review of core items worth investing in.

ON THE COVER

Genivieve is a geologist living in France for the past 10 years. She has traveled and explored the Alp’s thoroughly and is a strong advocate of the ‘Shelter Your Shelter’ movement in Europe. Since a child, I have been completely enthralled by the heights and beauties of the world. To wear a nice pair that support your feet and are practically uncovered walking shoes with thick soles. Your feet stay cool and you’ll be wearing the same as most locals. See comment. You can always wear socks with them if your feet get too cold such as on an say air-conditioned night bus, but at almost all times it’ll be too hot to wear normal shoes. If for any reason you need something formal/alternative, you’ll make a cheap local purchase. It is going to be quite cold where I am going (I am not moving around, i.e. single climate, European/N.American winter) and even with the temperature I want to trek. It may also be wet - take shoes appropriate to the climate. i.e. good shoes for real cold (China or Japan in the winter) or heavily vented shoes for warmer slightly varied dry climates (East Africa). Trail running-type trainers are perfect, sturdy, light and very comfortable for walking. They are produced by most major outdoor companies and come in varying weight, waterproofing and venting. Coupling with nice thick sock such as a merino wool pair, will add loads of warmth and padding. You could purchase a new pair in any major Asian capital and/or pick up flip-flop type sandals on the way if you need them, and all is good. A trip across different climates, regions and altitudes. I like to walk and plan to trek. at some stage - take both shoes and sandals. First timers and those unsure should perhaps take both, especially if they have limited info about regions and will visit more than one. Sandals should really be the light and compact flip-flop variety that can be stored easily in or on the outside of a pack, without adding too much weight.

On Genevieve Endus dolor alit, te reprae cumque erspere, sunt autatqui rem re volorem olupis etur, sape pori viti ipsam, ut quam alique aut omnihilis as aspiet harum nos eos et re voloreribus sunt.

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

Call of the Wild EXPLORE

PHOTOGRAPHY

David Castloff Britt Reints

TEXT

12 6

2012 WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

ALASKA CALLING

Road trips are like childbirth. Done right, they can be the adventure of a lifetime. Done wrong, and you’re screaming for painkillers.

am a cheap traveler with a quest to see the world while

trip, the more compatible you better be with the person you

hanging on to as much of my cash as possible. Needless

plan to be confined in a car with for hours on end. Of course,

to say, I’ve taken my share of vacations by car in an at-

a long road trip in the car can be a great opportunity to get to

tempt to save money. Here’s a few road trip planning tips

know someone better. But if you’re thinking of tagging along

I’ve picked up along the way. Make sure that the travel trailer’s

with people who normally irritate the crap out of you just to

water tank is full. You will need lots of water for bathing, drink-

save a little dough – think about flying instead.

ing and dishes while camping or driving to your next destina-

As a woman, I’ve never understood those couples where

tion. Top off the water tank each time you stop at a campsite.

the man is the only who does the driving. This is especially

Prevent unnecessary waste by brushing your teeth with a cup

true when driving long distances. If you can manage to get

of water instead of leaving the faucet running. Buy disposable

yourself around town by yourself, you can handle a turn at the

plates and plastic ware to save water on washing dishes.

wheel for a road trip. It’s nice to get a break from the driving.

Stock up on food. Travel trailers have plenty of storage space

It’s also nice to get a break from just sitting and watching out

for canned food. Make use of it by stocking plenty of canned

the window and trying really, really hard not to say anything

meats, ravioli, spaghetti and macaroni and cheese for “instant”

when the other driver gets really, really close to the car in front

meals. Don’t forget marshmallows. If you are feeding an infant,

of him. I mean, you know, for example. Don’t be afraid to do

take along plenty of formula, juice and diaper supplies. Healthy

some of the driving. Do you remember in the 80s when you had

snacks for older children should be packed with energy for

mixed tapes for everything? First Date Mix. Prom Night Mix.

strenuous activities such as hiking or playing volleyball. Carry

Ode To My Love For You Mix. A road trip is the perfect excuse

maps or use a GPS device. Stick to main roads and freeways.

to revive the mix (although it will probably take the form of a

They are usually the fastest, most hassle-free route from A to

burned CD or a playlist on your iPod).

B. Carry a good stock of batteries for flashlights and games children may play while traveling. I’ve owned a few beater cars in my life. I’ve taken more

Prepare yourself for inevitable stereo static with ample back up music. Bring twice as much as you think you’ll listen to. My playlists (because I am an iSnob) are crammed with cheesy

than one road trip in a lemon. And I’ve been stuck on the side

songs I know the words to, musical soundtracks and nostalgic

of the road in the middle of nowhere more times than I care to

favorites. Don’t be afraid to turn it up and sing along at the

admit. Be ye not so stupid.

top of your lungs. The chances of you ever seeing that driver

Make sure your vehicle is road trip ready before you leave.

who’s giving you funny looks from the car beside you again

Have the oil changed, fill up on windshield wiper fluid and

are slim to none. Unless you happen to stop at the same rest

make sure you have your license, registration and insurance up

stop. Maybe I’m the only person to ever get sunburned through

to date – and actually in the car with you. Good companion-

a car window – but I doubt it. And I know for a fact that I’m

ship can make all the difference on a road trip. The longer the

not the only person in my marriage who has had to stop at a

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

13 7

The Kitchen Hall FOOD & RECIPES

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MADE IN A LOCAL KITCHEN Journey on over to a small hidden gem in the heart of Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mountains. Where food reflects not only authenticity but culture.

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

PHOTOGRAPHY Wallcoo LeeJung STORY BY Rebecah Milnard RECIPES Sasha Cohen

Maze, Japan A taste of old Japan in a mountain ryokan. One of Japan’s best foodie destinations is the Maruhachi Ryokan, hidden away in the tiny mountain village of Maze, near Takayama. Rebecca Milner makes the culinary pilgrimage.

he Japanese clearly value tradition, yet for one reason or another – fire, natural disaster, the second

she believes that nobody would bother to travel from a foreign

world war, an enthusiasm for progress – there aren’t many

country to Maze (yes, that’s a dare). It looks like a classic

towns left that truly encapsulate the way things

Japanese country villa, with a low, horizontal

were. Kyoto has its temples, but in between

frame capped by slate-coloured tiles. But it isn’t

them is a thoroughly modern city. Takayama is different – an old castle town in the mountains of central Japan. You can still see the ruins of the 17th-century castle in the town’s Shiroyama Park, but Takayama is much better known for

Maze happens to shelter one of Japan’s best hidden culinary destinations.

its townscape of narrow lanes and low wooden buildings stained the colour of espresso. With

a time capsule. The walls are crisp white planes, the tatami mats are silky and fresh and the futons are wonderfully fluffy. Along one highly polished wooden corridor, glass cutouts in the floor look down over the carp swimming in the pond below, circling and circling their paths. Spring is also the season for sansai, moun-

its steep hills the town couldn’t produce much rice, so it

tain vegetables. These are the ferns and shoots

produced artisans instead. Many were carpenters, who

that nose up through the ground when it thaws and sprout from

would go on to work on the palaces and temples in Kyoto,

the tips of branches. There are half-a-dozen or so more com-

then return to construct their signature lattice-front buildings

mon ones, like kogomi (ostrich fern) and taranome (Angelica

for local merchants to come and trade.

tree shoots). It’s a foragers’ paradise. In Maze, housewives

FIRST STOP: TAKAYAMA Takayama has a few beautifully preserved streets, now filled with perpetually crowded tourist shops, and there is also a slow encroachment of Disneyland-esque additions on the edges – new “old” buildings are sprouting up. To really get away from it all, you need to head deeper into the hills, to a tiny village like Maze. Consider it a pilgrimage: Maze happens to shelter one of Japan’s best hidden culinary destinations. Maze is 40km south of Takayama, enveloped by a bucolic nothingness of rice paddies and hills. A slick two-lane highway makes easy work of those hills, though considering there’s hardly another car in sight one has to wonder if its construction

Maze, Japan Endus dolor alit, te reprae cumque erspere, sunt autatqui rem re volorem olupis etur, sape pori viti ipsam, ut quam alique aut omnihilis as aspiet harum nos eos et re voloreribus sunt

with baskets pillage the mountainside for edible greens to sell at roadside stands. With only 1,500 people in the village, there aren’t enough to do too much damage. Dinner at Maruhachi is a feast of all of this. The 11-course meal is served in a private dining room on a low black lacquered table with mother-of-pearl inlays of dragons and flowers. Guests sit on floor cushions. With each course, the waitresses go through the ritual of opening the sliding paper doors, kneeling on the tatami and explaining the details of each dish. – her mother was the okami before her. There are inns that can trace their lineage back 10 generations; housewives with baskets pillage Maruhachi is comparatively a child – only smaller than normal.

was really necessary. Its star, the Maruhachi Ryokan, doesn’t

SECOND STOP: THE IWANA

advertise; and has almost zero online presence. The inn gets

The iwana is served as sashimi (raw and thinly sliced), rare for

by entirely on repeat customers and word-of-mouth, and this is

a river fish. It has a cool, clear flesh traced with silver that looks

the way that the owner Chikako Hora prefers it. I get the sense

like the river in the sun, and just enough fat to give it a richness

that she agreed to let me write about her inn only because

of flavour and texture. The leaner amago is skewered and grilled

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

The Kitchen Hall FOOD & RECIPES

KALE CHIPS

These are a low calorie nutritious snack, and very easy to make. 1 bunch kale 1 T olive oil 1 tsp salt Preheat an oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Line a non insulated cookie sheet with parchment paper.With a knife or kitchen shears carefully remove the leaves from the thick stems and tear into bite size pieces. Wash and thoroughly dry kale with a salad spinner. Drizzle kale with olive oil and sprinkle with seasoning salt. Bake until the edges brown but are not burnt, 10 to 15 minutes.

PEACH SALAD Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a colorful salad with a wide range of tastes and textures that go together so well. There are sweet peaches, tart lemon, tangy vinegars and all kinds of crunch from greens, bacon and nuts. 4 medium ripe peaches, peeled 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup canola oil 6 cups spring mix salad greens 4 cups torn romaine 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1/2 cup thinly sliced cucumber 6 bacon strips, cooked and crumbled 1/3 cup chopped pecans, toasted Slice three peaches; set aside. Cut the remaining peach in half; place in a blender. Add the sugar, lemon juice, vinegars and salt; cover and process until blended. While processing, gradually add oil in a steady stream. In a large bowl, combine the salad greens, romaine, onion and cucumber. Pour about 2/3 cup dressing over salad and toss to coat. Transfer to a serving platter; top with sliced peaches and bacon.

16 10

WANDERLUST WINTER WINTER 2012 2012 WANDERLUST

SMOKED PORK & FIGS Figs! When they’re in season, well the box filleth over. Make this awesome caramelized onion, balsamic, rosemary, fig accompaniment to pork tenderloin. 2 pork tenderloins 4 Tbsp butter 1 white or yellow onion 1 tsp sugar 1 tsp balsalmic vinegar 2 tspns fresh rosemary, minced 1-2 Tbsp chopped parsley Black pepper and Salt to task Salt the pork tenderloins well and set them out at room temperature for 1520 minutes. Heat the oven to 300°F. Slice the onion into strips lengthwise (from the top to the root end). Cutting the onion this way helps keep the pieces hold their shape. 3 Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Pat the tenderloins dry with paper towels. Place the tenderloins in the pan and sear on all sides, until nicely browned. Remove the tenderloins to an oven-proof pan, and place in the oven at 300°F. Cook for 15-20 minutes, until an instant read thermometer inserted into the center of the tenderloins reaches 140°F. Then remove from oven and let rest.

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

17 11

Call of the Wild EXPLORE

THE

Iceland Roadtrip Learn how an ordinary couple managed to keep their roadtrip positive and memorable despite the challenges. TEXT Valerie Melema PHOTO Betti Roulgah

DAY1 1 DAY The weather was chilly, but I came prepared with sweat pants and jackets. We expected the nights would get chilly and planned accordingly. We decided that we would go camping at Lake Greenbelt in Clarendon, Texas with friends. We had plans to fish and camp for two days and one night. Clarendon

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012 2012

we could possibly need. We arrived at the lake with no idea where to go. I had never been to this lake before and our friends had

Ink, Iceland

not been there in awhile either.

Endus dolor alit, te reprae cumque erspere, sunt autatqui rem re volorem olupis etur, sape pori viti ipsam, ut quam alique aut omnihilis as aspiet harum nos eos et re voloreribus sunt

DAY2 2 DAY

We met our friends the night before for a

is about an hour away from our home in

late night Wal-Mart trip. We had not been

Amarillo and it was the first time that I had

camping in some time, so we had several

been camping with my husband.

supplies to buy. In fact, we needed just about

My days and memories of Girl Scouts

everything. We needed lawn chairs, a coffee

as a child kicked in a few days before we

pot and food amongst other necessities for a

left for our little trip. I began by making a

successful trip.

list. The list was about two pages long and

The next morning was finally time to go.

encompassed everything we could possibly

We packed our new tent, our blow up mat-

need. Texas and from then on the drive gets

tress, sleeping bags, lawn chairs plus the

pretty boring.

boxes of supplies from my list. The Claren-

From a hammer to sugar for coffee, I had

12 18

until I was certain that I thought of everything

don drive doesn’t offer much as far as sights

developed a plan. Then I realized that we

go. You drive through Claude, Texas and

didn’t have a tent! After searching for the

from then on the drive gets pretty boring.

best price and size to suit our needs, I forked

There’s not a lot to see in West Texas other

out the money for a new tent. The tent was a

than cow pasture, brown grass and dirt.

mansion for the two of us. For some reason,

The morning was a little darker than we

we thought we needed three rooms in a tent.

had hoped but it looked like the sun would

I checked my list a couple hundred times

eventually be coming out. We hit the marina

and bought some minnows. The girl at the desk and some minnows. The girl at campthe desk gavebought us directions to the most popular and bought some minnows. The girl at the desk gave us directions to the most popular campand bought some minnows. The girl the desk sites. The sites were for the most partatpretty gave us directions to the most popular campsites. Thedirections sites were the most part pretty gave You us tofor the most popular campnice. could camp fairly close to the water, sites. sites some were minnows. for the most part andThe bought The girlpretty at the desk nice. could camp close toneeded the water, sites. The siteshave were forfairly part pretty so youYou didn’t far tothe gomost if you nice. You camptofairly closepopular to the water, gave uscould directions the most campso you didn’t have far to go if you needed nice. You could camp fairly close to the We water, something to drink or eat while fishing. so sites. you didn’t have far to you needed The sites were forgo theif most part pretty something eat while fishing. Welake so you didn’t have far tosite go if you needed picked out to ourdrink site.or The sat above the something drinkcamp or eatfairly whileclose fishing. Wewater, nice. Youtocould to the picked out our site. The site sat above the something to drink or eat while fishing. Welake a bit and allowed us to park the cars nearby. picked outdidn’t our site. sat ifabove the lake so you haveThe farsite to go you needed a bit and to park theabove cars nearby. picked outallowed our site.usThe site sat the lake a bit and allowed us to the cars nearby. something to drink or park eat while fishing. We a bit and allowed us to park the cars nearby. out our The site sat above the lake Thepicked campsite hadsite. primitive restroom facilities. The had primitive restroom facilities. a campsite bit andbasically allowed us to park the cars nearby. They were permanent port-a-potties The campsite had primitive restroom facilities. They were basically permanent port-a-potties The campsite facilities. and we could had haveprimitive picked arestroom site closer to one. They were basically permanent port-a-potties and we could haveso picked a site closer one. Theyfact were basically permanent port-a-potties The they were far and there weretono and wecampsite could have a site closer facilities. to one. The hadpicked primitive restroom The fact they were so far and there were no and we could have picked a site closer to one. trees or bushes in West Texas made it necesTheThey factwere they basically were so far and thereport-a-potties were no permanent trees or have bushes in West made itAfter necesThe they easy were so farTexas and there nothe saryfact to access to the cars.were trees bushes Westpicked Texas amade it necesandorwe couldinhave site closer to one. sary accessTexas to we the cars.left the trees to or have bushes in restroom, West made itAfter necessecond trip toeasy the just a roll sary have easy access to and the cars. Thetofact they were so far there After were the no second trip toeasy the restroom, left atents roll sary to have access to we the cars. After the of toilet paper in the car.We setjust up our second tripbushes to the in restroom, we just leftitanecesroll trees or West Texas made of toilet paper in car.We set up our second trip to the restroom, left atents roll and pulled out thethe wood thatwe wejust brought for of sary toilettopaper the access car.Wetosettheupcars. our tents have in easy After the and pulled thethe wood that we brought foror of toilet paper in car.We set our tents our fire. Likeout I said, there’s not a up lot of trees and pulledtrip outtothe that we second thewood restroom, webrought just left for a roll our I said, there’s nothave a lot trees or and fire. pulled out the wood that we brought for bushes inLike West Texas so you toofbring your ouroffire. Like I said, there’s not asetlotupofour trees or toilet paper in the car.We tents bushes inLike West Texasthere’s so you our fire. I said, nothave a small lottoofbring treesyour or own firewood. There were some sticks bushes in West so youthat have bring your and pulled outTexas the wood wetobrought for own firewood. were some sticksyour bushes in West There Texas soayou havesmall to bring but not enough to build full-size campfire. We own some sticks ourfirewood. fire. Like There I said,were there’s not small a lot of trees or but enough to bricks build asofull-size campfire. ownnot firewood. There were some small sticks also had to bring we could set our We butbushes not enough to Texas build asofull-size campfire. in West you have to bringWe your also hadenough to bring bricks we could set our We but not build full-size campfire. grill top over thetofire for aso cooking. also had to bring There brickswere so wesome could set our own firewood. small sticks grill top over the everything fire for so cooking. also hadwe to bring bricks we could After had set-up, weset setour up grill the fire for cooking. buttop notover enough to build a full-size campfire. We After we had everything set-up, we set grill chairs top over for cooking. our on the the fire lakeside. The fishing wasup Afterhad we to had everything set-up, we set also bring bricks so we could setup our our chairs theeverything lakeside. fishing wasup so After weonhad set-up, wefishing, set pretty slow. Greenbelt only The has bank ourgrill chairs thethe lakeside. The fishing was top on over fire for cooking. pretty slow.onGreenbelt only has fishing bank fishing, our the lakeside. The was yourchairs chances of catching anything seem to beso prettyAfter slow.we Greenbelt only hasset-up, bank we fishing, so had everything set up your chances of catching anything seem to be pretty slow. Greenbelt only has bank fishing, slim, unless you have a boat. My husband, ofso your of the catching anything seem to be ourchances chairs on lakeside. The fishing was slim, chances unless have a boat. My husband, of your of only catching anything seem to be course, was you the one to catch anything. He slim, unless youGreenbelt have a boat. of so pretty slow. only My has husband, bank fishing, course, the aonly one to catch anything. He slim, you have a boat. Mybut husband, is by unless nowas means master angler, perhapsof course, was the of only one to anything catch anything. your chances catching seem toHe be is by no means aonly master angler, but perhaps course, the to catch anything. lucky. It was never fails, asone much as we go fishingHe is by nounless meansyou a master but husband, perhaps of slim, have aangler, boat. My lucky. It only never fails, much we fishing is byfish no means a master angler, butgo perhaps the seem toasfind his as hooks. lucky. It never as much we go fishing He course, was fails, the only one toascatch anything. the fishIt only his as hooks. lucky. neverseem fails,toasfind much we go fishing theisfish seem atomaster find hisangler, hooks.but perhaps by only no means the fish only seem to find his hooks. never fails, as muchwasn’t as weworking go fishing Welucky. soonItdecided the fishing We soon decided the fishing wasn’t working the fish only seem to find his hooks. out great, so we moved on to trying to get dinWe soon decided the fishing wasn’t working out so we moved on towasn’t trying to baked get dinWe great, soon decided fishing working ner going. I had a the great idea to make out great, so we moved on to trying to get dinner going. I the had a great idea to make out great, wefire, moved on todidn’t trying to baked get dinpotatoes inso but they exactly nerWe going. had a great idea towasn’t make working baked soonI decided the fishing potatoes in I the fire, but they didn’t exactly ner going. had aoutside great idea to make baked cook. Instead the of them burnt and the potatoes in the but they exactly out great, so fire, we moved ondidn’t to trying to get dincook. Instead outside ofhad them burnt and the potatoes in still thethe fire, but they didn’t exactly inside was raw. So we potato chips cook. themtoburnt the ner Instead going. Ithe hadoutside a greatofidea makeand baked inside was still raw. So our weofsteaks had chips cook.baked Instead the outside thempotato burnt and the and beans with and tossed inside was still raw. Sobut wethey haddidn’t potatoexactly chips potatoes in the fire, and baked beans with steaks and tossed inside was still raw. So our we had potato chips the potatoes. The steaks, however, turned and baked beansthe with our steaks and tossed cook. Instead outside of them burnt and the the potatoes. The steaks, however, turned andgreat. bakedThe beans ourcome steaksoffand tossed out bestwith steaks a wood theinside potatoes. steaks, turnedchips was The still raw. Sohowever, we had potato out great. TheThe beststeaks, steaks come off a campfire wood the potatoes. however, fire. After our steaks we enjoyed theturned outand great. Thebeans best steaks come off aand wood baked with our steaks tossed fire. After our steaks we enjoyed the campfire out great. The best S’mores steaks come woodthan classic of S’mores. may off be abetter fire. our steaks we enjoyed the campfire theAfter potatoes. The steaks, however, turned classic of steaks. S’mores. S’mores may be better than fire. After our steaks we thethe campfire campfire You just enjoyed can’t beat creamy classic of S’mores. S’mores than out great. The best steaks may comebeoffbetter a wood campfire steaks. You just can’t beat the creamy classic of S’mores. be better than marshmallows and S’mores deliciousmay chocolate.While campfire steaks. You just beat the the campfire creamy fire. After our steaks wecan’t enjoyed marshmallows and campfire steaks. just sleeping can’tchocolate.While beatbags the creamy dinner cooked, I You gotdelicious our setup. marshmallows and delicious classic of S’mores. S’moreschocolate.While may be better than dinner cooked, I got our sleeping bags setup. marshmallows and delicious chocolate.While I had packed my ever so comfortable blow dinner cooked, I gotYou ourjust sleeping bagsthe setup. campfire steaks. can’t beat creamy hadcooked, packed ever sotocomfortable blow dinner I my gotneeded our sleeping bags setup. up Imattress, which be inflated. Then I had packed my so comfortable blow marshmallows andever delicious chocolate.While which bewe inflated. Then Imattress, had packed myneeded everbags sotocomfortable Iup attached our sleeping so wouldblow have updinner mattress, whichI needed to be inflated. Then cooked, got our sleeping bags setup. Iup attached our sleeping bags so would have mattress, which needed bewe inflated. Then one giant sleeping bag. Thetonight was getting I attached sleeping bagssosocomfortable we would have I had our packed my ever blow one giant Thetonight getting I attached our bags so wewas would have pretty coolsleeping andsleeping we bag. needed share some body one sleeping bag. The night getting upgiant mattress, which needed to bewas inflated. Then pretty and we bag. needed tonight share some body one giant The was getting heat. Icool alsosleeping brought along the ugliest comforter pretty cool and neededbags to share body I attached ourwe sleeping so wesome would have heat. I also brought along the ugliest comforter pretty cool neededWe to share body we had for and extrawe warmth. really some roughed it heat. also brought comforter oneI giant sleepingalong bag. the Theugliest night was getting we had for extra warmth. really roughed it heat. I also brought along We the ugliest comforter on this trip! wepretty had for extra We to really roughed it cool andwarmth. we needed share some body on this trip! we had for extra warmth. We really roughed it onheat. this trip! I also brought along the ugliest comforter on this trip! we had for extra warmth. We really roughed it

DAY 3 DAY 3 DAY 3 DAY 3 DAY DAY 33

DAY 4 DAY 4 DAY 4 DAY 4 DAY4 4 DAY

on this trip! How good are these numbers?

The morning coffee would turn out to would turn outThe to beThe as morning good as coffee the baked potatoes. The morning coffee would turn out to beThe as morning good the baked potatoes. The coffee turn out to weather wasas windy in would the morning and be as good as the baked potatoes. The weather wasas windy inhot theenough morning be as the potatoes. The the firegood wouldn’t getbaked to and boil weather was windy in the morning The morning coffee would turnand out to the fire wouldn’t enough boil weather was inhot the morning the water. Thewindy airget was pretty cooltoinand the the enough to boilThe befire aswouldn’t good asget thehot baked potatoes. the airso was pretty cool theup the water. fire wouldn’t get hot enough boil morning asThe well, we decided totoin pack the water. The wasin pretty cool in the weather wasair windy the morning and morning as well, so we decided to pack the water. was pretty theup and hit theThe gasair station on ourcool wayinhome morning well, soget we hot decided to pack up the fireas wouldn’t enough to boil and hit the on our way homeup morning as gas well,station so we decided to pack for breakfast. and hitwater. the gas station onpretty our way the The air was coolhome in the for andbreakfast. hit the gas station on our way home formorning breakfast. as well, so we decided to pack up for breakfast. and hitmay the not gassound station onthe ourmost way suchome The trip like The may not trip sound likebut thewe most sucfortrip breakfast. How good are they. cessful camping ever, hadn’t The trip may not sound like the most successful camping ever, but we hadn’t The trip may not sound like the most sucbeen camping in trip so long that we had great cessful camping trip ever, but we hadn’t been camping in so long that we had great cessful ever,like buta we hadn’t fun. Wecamping probablytrip looked bunch of been sosound long that great Thecamping trip mayin not like we thehad most sucfun. We probably looked like a bunch of been camping so long we had great amateurs and in dorks but that we didn’t care. fun. We probably like but a bunch of cessful campinglooked trip ever, we hadn’t amateurs and dorks but we care. fun. We probably looked like didn’t a bunch of We were absolutely exhausted the next amateurs and dorks wethat didn’t been camping in sobut long wecare. had great We were absolutely exhausted the next amateurs and dorks but we didn’t care. morning as our campsite was visited by a We absolutely exhausted the next fun.were We probably looked like a bunch of morning as our campsite was a Weflock were exhausted the by next wild ofabsolutely turkeys in the weevisited hours of the morning as our was by a amateurs andcampsite dorks but wevisited didn’t care. wild flockas ofour turkeys in the wee hours of the morning campsite was visited by a morning. There wasn’t much fish either, wild We flock of turkeys in theexhausted wee hoursthe of next the were absolutely morning. wasn’t much fish either, wild flock There of turkeys the wee hours of the but when you live in in West Texas you don’t morning. There wasn’t muchwas fishvisited either,by a morning as our campsite but whenhopes you live in West Texas you don’t morning. There wasn’t much fish either, get your up that high on the fishing. but when you in West Texas don’t wild flock oflive turkeys in the weeyou hours of the get your hopes up that high on the fishing. but when West Texas out youwith don’t Mainly weyou justlive hadinfun hanging get your hopes upwasn’t that high on fish the fishing. morning. There much either, Mainly we just had fun hanging outfishing. with get your hopes up that high on the friends and taking in the outdoors. Mainly we just had hanging outyou with but when you livefun in West Texas don’t friends and taking in the outdoors. Mainly wethe justbouquet had fun and hanging out with I Behold boutonnières friends andhopes takingup in that the outdoors. get your high on the fishing. Behold the bouquet and boutonnières I friends and in the outdoors. made for mytaking beloved cousin and her brideBehold thejust bouquet and boutonnières I Mainly we had fun hanging out with made for my beloved cousin and her brideBehold bouquet and boutonnières I groom onthe their wedding day. These weren’t made for my cousin and her bridefriends andbeloved taking in the outdoors. groom on my their day. These made for beloved cousin and herweren’t brideeven finished atwedding this point, but I never got groom on their weren’tI Behold thewedding bouquet day. and These boutonnières even finished atwedding this point, butThese Ibabies never got groom on their day. weren’t another chance to shoot these so even finished atbeloved this point, but Iand never made for my cousin hergot brideanother to shoot these so even finished this point, butthat Ibabies never got you’ll justchance haveatto believe me it was another shoot these so groomchance on theirtowedding day. babies These weren’t you’ll justchance have to me that it was another tobelieve shoot these babies so a heady bundle of verdurous LOVE. Have you’ll just have to me but thatI it was got even finished atbelieve this point, never a heady ofblooming verdurous LOVE. Have you’ll justbundle have to believe me that it It was you ever smelled acacia? will a heady bundle of to verdurous LOVE. Haveso another chance shoot these babies you everyour smelled blooming acacia? will a heady bundle verdurous LOVE. change life of (it did mine). And doItHave you you everjust smelled you’ll have blooming to believeacacia? me thatItitwill was change your life (it did mine). And do you you ever blooming acacia?makes It will know thatsmelled silver dollar eucalyptus change your life (itof did mine). And do you a heady bundle verdurous LOVE. Have know that silver makes change your life dollar (it did eucalyptus mine). sound And do you the faintest brushed-taffeta as it know dollar eucalyptus makes youthat eversilver smelled blooming acacia? It will the faintest brushed-taffeta sound as it know that silver dollar eucalyptus makes rustles? Also: old-fashioned English roses, the faintest brushed-taffeta sound change your life (it did mine). And as doityou rustles? Also: old-fashioned English roses, the faintest brushed-taffeta it lavender, rosemary, sea holly,sound silver as brunia rustles? Also:silver old-fashioned English roses, know that dollar eucalyptus makes lavender, rosemary, sea holly, silver brunia rustles? old-fashioned English roses, berzelia, Also: and horse-muzzle-soft scented lavender, rosemary, sea holly, silver brunia the faintest brushed-taffeta sound as it berzelia, horse-muzzle-soft scented lavender,and rosemary, silver brunia geranium leaves thesea sizeholly, of kittens. Botaniberzelia, and horse-muzzle-soft scented rustles? Also: old-fashioned English roses, geranium leaves the size of kittens. Botaniberzelia, and horse-muzzle-soft scented cal opulence! Esoteric fleurs! 18th-century geranium leaves the size ofholly, kittens. Botanilavender, rosemary, sea silver brunia cal opulence! Esoteric fleurs! 18th-century geranium leaves thenosegays! size of kittens. Botaniherbalism! Literary calberzelia, opulence! Esoteric fleurs! 18th-century and horse-muzzle-soft scented herbalism! Literary nosegays! cal opulence! Esoteric fleurs! 18th-century herbalism! nosegays! geraniumLiterary leaves the size of kittens. Botaniherbalism! Literary nosegays! cal opulence! Esoteric fleurs! 18th-century There may or may not have been a waver There may or may not have been waver herbalism! Literary nosegays! of first-timer’s confidence when itaoccurred There may or may not have been a waver of first-timer’s confidence when There may Ior may not have beenitaoccurred waver to me that had amassed (possibly) the of first-timer’s confidence when it occurred to first-timer’s meingredients that I had amassed (possibly) the of confidence when it occurred floral for an under-the-seato There me that I had amassed (possibly) may or may not have been athe waver floral for an under-the-seato meingredients that I had the themed prom asamassed hosted by(possibly) a high school floral ingredients confidence for an under-the-seaof first-timer’s when it occurred themed prom as hosted by a high school floral ingredients for an Shakespeare society, or,under-the-sea(better? worse?) themed hosted by a(possibly) high school to me prom that I as had amassed the Shakespeare or,mermaids. (better? themed promsociety, as hosted by a highworse?) school a Renaissance faire for But Shakespeare society, worse?) floral ingredients foror, an(better? under-the-seaa Renaissance faire for mermaids. But Shakespeare society, or,restored (better?with worse?) confidence was quickly the a Renaissance for mermaids. But themed promfaire as hosted by a high school confidence was quickly restored with the a Renaissance faire black for mermaids. addition of madcap scabiosa,But petconfidence was society, quickly restored withworse?) the Shakespeare or, (better? addition of madcap black scabiosa, petconfidence wasAustin quicklyroses restored with the ticoated David in conch-shelladdition of madcap black scabiosa, peta Renaissance faire for mermaids. But ticoated David Austin roses in conch-shelladdition of madcap black scabiosa, petblush, and heaps of devastatingly lacy ticoated David Austin roses in conch-shellconfidence was quickly restored with the blush, and heaps of devastatingly lacy ticoated David Austin roses conch-shellQueen Anne’s lace. OH! Andin fruiting olive blush, and heaps of devastatingly lacypetaddition of madcap black scabiosa, Queen Anne’s lace. And olive blush, and heaps ofOH! devastatingly lacy branches from California, thefruiting home state Queen Anne’s lace. OH! And fruiting olive ticoated David Austin roses in conch-shellbranches fromlace. California, thefruiting home state Queen Anne’s OH!bride. And olive of our beloved cousinly PHEW. branches from California, the home state blush, and heaps of devastatingly lacy of Holding our beloved cousinly bride. PHEW. branches from California, the home state the half-finished bouquet is my of Queen our beloved cousinly bride. Anne’s lace. OH! AndPHEW. fruiting olive Holding the half-finished bouquet is my of ourbeloved belovedcousin cousinly bride. PHEW. other (cashmere cable-knit; Holding the half-finished is state my branches from California,bouquet the home other beloved cousin (cashmere cable-knit; theclassy half-finished is of my weHolding are some even in bouquet the throes other beloved cousin (cashmere cable-knit; of our beloved cousinly bride. PHEW. we arebeloved some classy in the throes of other cousineven (cashmere cable-knit; we are somethe classy even in the throes of Holding half-finished bouquet is my we are some classy even in the throes of other beloved cousin (cashmere cable-knit;

DAY 5 DAY 5 DAY 5 DAY 5 DAY5 5 DAY

DAY 6 DAY 6 DAY 6 DAY 6 DAY DAY 66

we are some classy even in the throes of

HOW IS YOUR HOW IS YOUR HOW IS YOUR TRAVEL SAAVY? HOW IS YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL SAAVY? HOW ISSAAVY? YOUR TRAVEL SAAVY? TRAVEL SAAVY? Take this quiz to see how wellTake thisyou quizare! to see how welltraveled Take thisyou quizare! to see how welltraveled Take thisyou quizare! to see how welltraveled traveled you are! Take this quiz to see how welltraveled you are!

A A A A A

B B B B B

C C C C C

D D D D D Answers: A England B Pennysylvania C Micronesia D New Zealand E Prince Edward Island Answers: A England B Pennysylvania C Micronesia D New Zealand E Prince Edward Island Answers: A England B Pennysylvania C Micronesia D New Zealand E Prince Edward Island Answers: A England B Pennysylvania C Micronesia D New Zealand E Prince Edward WANDERLUSTMAG.COM Island

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

19 19 19 19

Answers: A England B Pennysylvania C Micronesia D New Zealand E Prince Edward WANDERLUSTMAG.COM Island

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

19 13

Survival Kit WHAT TO PACK

you crave a bedtime snack, it is good to have something to eatI am just going to a hot climate in one region (i.e. South East Asia), will not be doing any big walks and understand I must keep my feet covered with insect repellent at certain times. I’m also not too squeamish and understand that on the odd occasion my feet will be open to some less than clean streets - take only sandals. Really keeps your pack small/light and you get to wear a nice pair that support your feet and are practically uncovered walking shoes with thick soles. Your feet stay cool and you’ll be wearing the same as most locals. See comment. How good are these numbers? You can always wear socks with them if your feet get too cold such as on an say air-conditioned night bus, but at almost all times it’ll be too hot to wear normal shoes. If for any reason you need something formal/alternative, you’ll make a cheap local purchase.

BYO GEAR

It is going to be quite cold where I am going (I am not moving around, i.e. single climate, European/N.American winter) and even with

An important part in planning any journey or trek is curating a packing list. Here are some unexpected items that will help keep you healthy and happy on the trail. TEXT

Annie Shustrin

PHOTOGRAPH

Jason Miller

HEALTHY

also be wet - take shoes appropriate to the climate. i.e. good shoes for real cold (China or Japan in the winter) or heavily vented shoes for warmer slightly varied dry climates (East Africa). How good are these numbers? Trail running-type trainers are perfect, sturdy,

Backpack. Your bag is your life. The smaller

An extra pair of shoes for nighttime will be

light and very comfortable for walking. They

it is the less it sticks outs and the less vulner-

highly beneficial both physically and men-

are produced by most major outdoor compa-

able you feel. The closer you can stick to it

tally. Even something as simple as flip flops

nies and come in varying weight, waterproof-

and less cumbersome it is the happier you

can help rest your feet.

ing and venting. Coupling with nice thick sock

will be.

Headlamp. As most villages in the

such as a merino wool pair, will add loads of

mountains are not fitted with streetlamps,

warmth and padding.

to the environment, but doing it every day

for this reason, a headlamp is particularly

You could purchase a new pair in any major

will end up costing you excessive amounts of

convenient if you find yourself hiking the

Asian capital and/or pick up flip-flop type

money. A simple filter will allow you to use

trails in the dark or on late night runs to the

sandals on the way if you need them.

the tap water and render it 100% safe with

bathroom. be sure to pack a backup set of

runs to the bathroom. be sure to pack a

UV Water Filter. Bottled water detrimental

an easy flick of a wand. Recommended: The

Hand Sanitizer. It will be hard to find run-

I am doing a trip across different climates,

ning water in the mountains, and an alcohol-

regions and altitudes. I like to walk and plan

based hand sanitizer is a must. Keeping

to trek at some stage - take both shoes and

hiking and sweating and sleeping in your

helathy during your trip is a must, and you can

sandals. How good are these numbers?

trekking clothes, you will appreciate the feel-

pick this up in most hub cities on your trip.

First timers and those unsure should perhaps

ing of a clean set when you are on your way

Toilet paper is like gold bullion on a

take both, especially if they have limited info

SteriPEN Classic Water Filter Clean Clothes. After days and days of

back down from accomplishing your goal.

trek. Seriously. The most important rule in

about regions and will visit more than one.

A few undergarments and some socks will

planning ahead on toilet paper is to bring

Sandals should really be the light and compact

serve as a nice reward.

double the amount you think you’ll need

flip-flop variety that can be stored easily in or

since you’ll probably going to end up

on the outside of a pack, without adding too

needing double.

much weight. How good are these numbers?

Lots of Local Currency. If you are using guides and porters on your trip, you won’t want to risk offending anyone if you don’t

20 14

HAPPY

the temperature I want to trek/climb. It may

Candy and Snacks. Delicious food is a

If necessary wearing the shoes (trail-running

have enough to go around to tip them. Also

great motivator. On a trail break or when

variety as per option 2) when carry your bag

consider any purchases you will want to make

you crave a bedtime snack, it is good to

to keep its size down. You do not need any

at trading posts along the way. on late night

have something to eat. Delicious food is a

more footwear than this. Remember both can

be bought (of limited varying quality)

great motivator. On a trail break or when

be bought (of limited varying quality) abroad,

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012 2012

WHAT’S IN YOUR

PACK?

Here are some of our staff picks of essential items you will need no matter what kind of traveling you will be doing.

To bring, or not to bring? experts say... MAKE ROOM

YOUR CALL

LEAVE IT

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arumquas atur?

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natemol enecat omnis maxim Onsent, comnissum,

quidusdam estiori ab ipsae quo maximag natemol

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ut etum am, optatqu iaeptatLesciandanisi in estem

enecat omnis maxim Onsent, comnissum, ut etum

tatLesciandanisi in estem lamet int et quidusdam

lamet int et quidusdam estiori ab Onsent, comnis-

am, optatqu iaeptatLesciandanisi in estem lamet

1. UV Water Filter, dharma trading co, $70 2. Headlamp, REI, 3. Womans Shirt, jacket, pants, shoes, accesory 4. Men’’s jacket, pants shoes, accesory 5. backpack 6. cool snacks 7. UV Water Filter, dharma trading co, $70 8. Headlamp, REI, 9. Womans Shirt, jacket, pants, shoes, accesory 10. Men’’s jacket, pants shoes, accesory 11. backpack herschels supply, $78 12. cool snacks 11. backpack herschels supply, $78 12. cool snacks

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

21 15

Earth’s Footprint SHELTER YOUR SHELTER

Call of the Wild EXPLORE

PROTECT YOUR

MOUNTAINS

The mountainous regions around the world are slowly coming to a decay. Something needs to be done, today.

It may also be wet - take shoes appropriate to the climate. i.e. good shoes for real cold (China or Japan in the winter) or heavily vented shoes for

THE

Iceland Roadtrip

warmer slightly varied dry climates (East Africa). Trail running-type trainers are perfect, sturdy, light and

very comfortable for walking. They are produced by

most major outdoor companies and come in varying weight, waterproofing and venting. Coupling with nice thick sock such as a merino wool pair, will add

To wear a nice pair that support your feet and are

loads of warmth and padding. You could purchase a

practically uncovered walking shoes with thick soles.

new pair in any major Asian capital and/or pick up

Your feet stay cool and you’ll be wearing the same

flip-flop type sandals on the way if you need them.

as most locals. See comment. You can always wear

A trip across different climates, regions and

socks with them if your feet get too cold such as on

altitudes. I like to walk and plan to trek. at some

an say air-conditioned night bus, but at almost all

stage - take both shoes and sandals. First timers and

times it’ll be too hot to wear normal shoes. If for any

those unsure should perhaps take both, especially

reason you need something formal/alternative, you’ll

if they have limited info about regions and will visit

make a cheap local purchase.It is going to be quite

more than one. Sandals should really be the light and

cold where I am going (I am not moving around, i.e.

compact flip-flop variety that can be stored easily in

single climate, European/N.American winter) and

or on the outside of a pack, without adding too much

even with the temperature I want to trek.

weight. If necessary wearing the shoes (trail-running

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

The Sierra

Endus dolor alit, te reprae cumque erspere, sunt autatqui rem re volorem olupis etur, sape pori viti ipsam, ut quam alique aut omnihilis as aspiet harum nos eos et re quiam simpore

Learn how an ordinary couple managed to keep their roadtrip positive and memorable despite the challenges. TEXT Valerie Melema PHOTO Betti Roulgah

THE GLOBAL WARMING DEBATE THE GREENHOUSE EFFECT T H E N AT U R A L O C C U R A N C E O F C E R TA I N GASSES RETAINING HE AT FROM SUNLIGHT ATTRIBUTED BY GREEN HOUSE EFFECT OZONE

F WHICH IS GOOD BECAUSE

ATTRIBUTED BY HUMANS CO2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26% H20 VAPOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0%

36% WATER VAPOR METHANE

14% CLOUDS

12% C0 2

BY POLITICAL PARTY

51%

49%

THE DEBATE HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR 200+ YEARS

EARTH’S FACTOIDS

CLOUDS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26% OZONE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ? METHANE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60% I T I S D E B ATA B L E WHETHER GASSES AT T R I B U T E D BY H U M A N O C C U PAT I O N A R E H A R M F U L TO A N D/O R OV E R H E AT T H E E A R T H

OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES POLAR REGIONS

1.3F

WARMER

VISIBLE IN THE # OF SUNSPOTS

0.4F

WARMING

BELIEVE IN GLOBAL WARMING AS OF 2008 AND 7% ARE STILL UNSURE IN SEPTEMBER

2012

THE EARTH IS APPROXIMATELY

REACHED IT’S

THE ARTIC SEA

4.5 BILLION YEARS OLD EARTH’S OVERALL TEMPERATURE

WAS 134°F IN 1913 AT WARMED BY 1.4 F GREENLAND RANCH IN DEATH VALLEY, CALIFORNIA

OVERALL

OF AMERICANS

1970 THE FIRST EARTH DAY WAS HELD

THE HIGHEST TEMPERATURE RECORDED

11yr

solar radiation cycle

MOSTLY DURING THE PERIODS OF

1907-1944 AND 1976 -2005

LOWEST EXTENT

MEASURING 1.32 MILLION SQ MILES (DOWN FROM 7.50)

ARE AT RISK OF BEING EXTINCT

CLIMATE CHANGE

LEADS TO THE LOSS OF

ARCTIC SEA ICE THIS IS THEIR

LEADING THREAT WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

PHOTOS Benjamin Fillis

CLIMBING

10 Mos

18 6

2012 WANDERLUST WINTER 2012

If the pictures of those towering wildfires in Colo-

ences and journals, but it hasn’t yet broken through

If the haven’t pictures convinced of those towering wildfires in your Colo-AC rado you, or the size of

ences and journals, hasn’t yet broken through to the larger public. but Thisitanalysis upends most of the

rado haven’t convinced or hard the size of your AC bill this summer, here areyou, some numbers about

to the larger public. analysis upends most of the conventional politicalThis thinking about climate change.

bill this change: summer, June here broke are some hard3,215 numbers climate or tied high-about

conventional thinking about climate change. And it allows political us to understand our precarious – our

climate change: Juneacross broke the or tied 3,215 hightemperature records United States. That

And it allows us to understand our precarious – our almost-but-not-quite-finally hopeless – position with

temperature therecord Unitedfor States. That followed the records warmestacross May on the North-

almost-but-not-quite-finally hopeless – position with three simple numbers.

followed the warmest record for month the Northern Hemisphere – the May 327thonconsecutive in

three BY 2simple 100,numbers. WE COULD

ern Hemisphere – the 327th in which the temperature of the consecutive entire globemonth exceeded

LOSE... BY Copenhagen 2 100, WEclimate COULD LOSE... The conference in 2009 would

which the temperature of the exceeded the 20th-century average, theentire odds globe of which occur-

The climate conference in 2009 haveCopenhagen marked the culmination of the global fightwould to slow

the average, the3.7 odds of which occurring20th-century by simple chance were x 10-99, a number

have markedclimate. the culmination of thefailed global fight to slow a changing Copenhagen spectacularly.

ring by simplelarger chance were x 10-99, a number considerably than the 3.7 number of stars in the

a changing climate. Copenhagen failed spectacularly. Neither China nor the United States, which between

considerably larger than the number of stars in the universe.

Neither nor thefor United States, of which between them areChina responsible 40 percent global carbon

universe. Meteorologists reported that this spring was the

them are responsible for 40 percent of global carbon emissions, was prepared to offer dramatic concessions,

Meteorologists reported thatnation this spring was the warmest ever recorded for our – in fact, it

emissions, prepared to offer dramatic and so the was conference drifted aimlessly for concessions, two weeks

warmest everold recorded forso ourmuch nation fact, it crushed the record by that– itinrepresent-

and the leaders conference drifted twoThe weeks until so world jetted in foraimlessly the final for day.

crushed the old temperature record by sodeparture much thatfrom it represented the “largest average

until world in for thenumber, final day. The accord did leaders contain jetted one important however.

ed the “largest temperature departure from average of any season on record.” The same week, Saudi

accord did contain one important number, In Paragraph 1, it formally recognized “thehowever. scientific

of any season on record.” The same Saudi authorities reported that it had rainedweek, in Mecca

In Paragraph 1, it formally recognized “the scientific view that the increase in global temperature should

authorities reported that haddegrees, rained inthe Mecca despite a temperature of it109 hottest

view that the global temperature should be below twoincrease degrees in Celsius.” And in the very next

despite a temperature of 109 degrees, hottest downpour in the planet’s history. Since the I wrote one

be below two degrees Celsius.” the deep very next paragraph, it declared that “we And agreeinthat cuts

downpour in the planet’s history. Since I wrote of the first books for a general audience about one

paragraph, it declared “we agree deepthe cuts in global emissions are that required... so asthat to hold

of the first books way for aback general audience global warming in 1989, and about since I’ve

in global in emissions are required... so as hold theCelincrease global temperature below twotodegrees

global warming way back in 1989, andineffectively since I’ve spent the intervening decades working

increase globalon temperature below two degrees Celsius.” By in insisting two degrees – about 3.6 degrees

spent intervening ineffectively to slowthethat warming,decades I can sayworking with some confi-

sius.” By insisting on tworatified degrees – abouttaken 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit – the accord positions earlier

to slowthat thatwe’re warming, say with some dence losingI can the fight, badly andconfiquickly

Fahrenheit theG8, accord positions taken earlier in 2009 by–the andratified the so-called Major Econo-

dence we’re losing badly andinquickly – losingthat it because, mostthe of fight, all, we remain denial

in 2009 by the G8,asand the so-called Economies Forum. It was conventional as Major conventional

–about losing because, most ofcivilization all, we remain theit peril that human is in.in denial

mies Forum. wasnumber as conventional as prominence, conventionalin wisdom gets.ItThe first gained

about thewe peril thatabout human civilization When think global warmingisatin.all, the

wisdom The number first gained prominence, in fact, at agets. 1995 climate conference chaired by Angela

When we think about global warming at all, the arguments tend to be ideological, theological and

fact, at athen 1995 conference by Angela Merkel, theclimate German minister ofchaired the environment

arguments be ideological, theological and economic. tend But totograsp the seriousness of our predica-

Merkel, Germanchancellor minister ofofthe and nowthen the the center-right theenvironment nation.

economic. But need to grasp theaseriousness of our ment, you just to do little math. For thepredicapast

andSome now context: the center-right chancellor of the average nation. So far, we’ve raised

ment, youeasy just and needpowerful to do a little For the analysis past year, an bit ofmath. arithmetical

Some context: far, we’ve raised thedegrees average temperature of theSo planet just under 0.8

year, an easy and powerfulanalysts bit of arithmetical first published by financial in the U.K. analysis has

temperature thehas planet just far under 0.8 degreesthan Celsius, and of that caused more damage

first by rounds financial in the U.K. has beenpublished making the of analysts environmental confer-

Celsius, and that has caused far more damage most scientists expected. (A third of summer seathan ice

been making the rounds of environmental confer-

most third are of summer sea ice in thescientists Arctic is expected. gone, the (A oceans 30 percent more

CLIMATES

st Precious Places on Earth—And How to Save Them st Precious Places on Earth—And How to Save by: BillThem McKibben by: Bill McKibben

in the Arctic is gone, theair oceans 30water percent more acidic, and since warm holdsare more vapor acidic, andthe since warm airover holds water than cold, atmosphere themore oceans is avapor shockthan cold, the atmosphere over the oceans a shocking five percent wetter, loading dice forisdevastating ing five percent wetter, loading for scientists devastating floods.) Given those impacts, in the fact,dice many floods.) Given thosethat impacts, in fact, ismany scientists have come to think two degrees far too lenient a have think that twoabove degrees far too involves lenient a target.come “Anytonumber much oneisdegree target. “Anywrites number much above of one degree involves a gamble,” Kerry Emanuel MIT, a leading aua gamble,” writes Kerry Emanuel of MIT, a leading authority on hurricanes, “and the odds become less and thority on hurricanes, “and the odds become less and less favorable as the temperature goes up.” Thomas less favorable as the temperature goesbiodiversity up.” Thomas Lovejoy, once the World Bank’s chief Lovejoy, onceitthe Bank’s biodiversity adviser, puts likeWorld this: “If we’rechief seeing what we’re adviser, puts it like this: “If we’re seeing what we’re

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

19 7

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

Save

your mountain More More than than 500 500 Appalachian Appalachian Mountains Mountains have have already already been been destroyed by mountaintop destroyed by mountaintop reremocal, but there are hundreds mocal, but there are hundreds more that can still be saved. more that can still be saved.

THE THE ALPS ALPS one of Europes cherished

one of Europes cherished but but most most endagered endagered mountains. mountains. As As the the “water “water towtowers of Europe,” ers of Europe,” the the Alps Alps play play a a crucial role in sustaining the crucial role in sustaining the social and economic welllbeing social and economic welllbeing of of millions millions of of people people living living in in cast cast lowland lowland areas. areas. A A compled compled and vulnerable ecosystem, and vulnerable ecosystem, they they represent represent Europe’s Europe’s central central landmark. landmark.

THE THE PAMIR PAMIR MOUNTIAN MOUNTIAN RANGE RANGE

in in central central Asia Asia flanked flanked by by the the Hindu Hindu Kush, Kush, HimalaHimalayan, Karakoram, and Kunlun yan, Karakoram, and Kunlun ranges, ranges, is is one one of of the the most most spectacular spectacular mountain mountain regions regions on earth. It’s isolation on earth. It’s isolation and and low low hiuman density offer a hiuman density offer a unique unique refuge for for wildlife wildlife that that has has been been refuge all but but exterminated exterminated in in sursurall rounding areas. areas. rounding

SAN SAN BERNADINO BERNADINO MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS

are are a a hugh hugh and and rugged rugged mountain mountain range range in in califorcalifornia. Recreational decelop nia. Recreational decelop of of the the range began began in in the the early early 1900’s. 1900’s. range Since then, then, the the mountains mountains have have Since been extrememly extrememly engeneered engeneered been for for ttravel ttravel ;; today today these these develdevelopments have all had opments have all had signifisignificant impact on theanimal cant impact on theanimal and and plant plant life life around around them. them.

ALTAI ALTAI MOUNTAINS MOUNTAINS

East East Central Central Asia Asia where where there there are are globally endangered globally endangered mammammals such such as as the the snow snow leopard leopard mals and the altai argali.satisfy and the altai argali.satisfy the the needs needs of of griculture griculture and and the the tourism sector. To supplement tourism sector. To supplement the the broad broad projection projection of of more more

YAMSAY YAMSAY MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN

Diverse Diverse life life exists exists within within the the range range including the including the endangered endangered species like Larch Mountain species like Larch Mountain Salamanders. Salamanders. Hosting Hosting most most of of the the headwaters headwaters of of the the rivers rivers Danube, Rhine, Po and Danube, Rhine, Po and Rho Rho are also exposed to increasing are also exposed to increasing demand demand for for water. water. For For more more information information on on endanendangered gered mountains mountains and and how how to to save save the mountain nearest to youm the mountain nearest to youm please visit www.ilovemountains. please visit www.ilovemountains. com to to pledge pledge or or spread spread the the word. word. com

8 20 8

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012 WANDERLUST WINTER 2012 2012

seeing seeing today today at at 0.8 0.8 degrees degrees Celsius, Celsius, two two degrees degrees is is simply too much.” NASA scientist James Hansen, the simply too much.” NASA scientist James Hansen, the

that they’re they’re exact, exact, but but few few dispute dispute that that they’re they’re genergenerthat ally right. The 565-gigaton figure was derived from ally right. The 565-gigaton figure was derived from

planet’s planet’s most most prominent prominent climatologist, climatologist, is is even even blunter: blunter: “The target that has been talked about in international “The target that has been talked about in international

one of of the the most most sophisticated sophisticated computer-simulation computer-simulation one models that have been built by climate scientists scientists models that have been built by climate

negotiations negotiations for for two two degrees degrees of of warming warming is is actually actually a a prescription for long-term disaster.” At the Copenhagen prescription for long-term disaster.” At the Copenhagen

around the the world world over over the the past past few few decades. decades. And And around the number is being further confirmed by the latest the number is being further confirmed by the latest

summit, summit, a a spokesman spokesman for for small small island island nations nations warned warned that many would not survive a two-degree rise: that many would not survive a two-degree rise: “Some “Some

climate-simulation models models currently currently being being finalized finalized in in climate-simulation advance of the next report by the Intergovernmental advance of the next report by the Intergovernmental

countries countries will will flat-out flat-out disappear.” disappear.” When When delegates delegates from from developing nations were warned that two degrees developing nations were warned that two degrees

Panel on on Climate Climate Change. Change. “Looking “Looking at at them them as as they they Panel come in, they hardly differ at all,” says Tom Wigley, come in, they hardly differ at all,” says Tom Wigley,

would would represent represent a a “suicide “suicide pact” pact” for for drought-stricken drought-stricken Africa, many of them started chanting, Africa, many of them started chanting, “One “One degree, degree,

an Australian Australian climatologist climatologist at at the the National National Center Center for for an Atmospheric Research. “There’s maybe 40 models Atmospheric Research. “There’s maybe 40 models

one one Africa.” Africa.” Despite Despite such such well-founded well-founded misgivings, misgivings, political political rerealism bested bested scientific scientific data, data, and and the the world world settled alism settled on on the two-degree target – indeed, it’s fair to say that the two-degree target – indeed, it’s fair to say that

in the the data data set set now, now, compared compared with with 20 20 before. before. But But in so far the numbers are pretty much the same. We’re so far the numbers are pretty much the same. We’re

it’s it’s the the only only thing thing about about climate climate change change the the world world has settled on. All told, 167 countries responsible has settled on. All told, 167 countries responsible

climate scientist scientist at at the the Lawrence Lawrence Berkeley Berkeley climate Laboratory, agrees. “I think the results of Laboratory, agrees. “I think the results of

for for more more than than 87 87 percent percent of of the the world’s world’s carbon carbon emisemissions have signed on to the Copenhagen Accord, sions have signed on to the Copenhagen Accord, endorsing endorsing the the two-degree two-degree target. target. Only Only a a few few dozen dozen countries have rejected it, including Kuwait, Nicaracountries have rejected it, including Kuwait, Nicaragua gua and and Venezuela. Venezuela. Even Even the the United United Arab Arab Emirates, Emirates, which makes most of its money exporting oil which makes most of its money exporting oil and and gas, gas, signed signed on. on. The The official official position position of of planet planet Earth Earth at the moment is that we can’t raise the temperature at the moment is that we can’t raise the temperature more more than than two two degrees degrees Celsius Celsius –– it’s it’s become become the the botbottomest of bottom lines. Two degrees. tomest of bottom lines. Two degrees.

just fine-tuning fine-tuning things. things. II don’t don’t think think much much has has changed changed just over the last decade.” William Collins, a senior over the last decade.” William Collins, a senior National National this round of of this round simulations will will be be quite quite similar,” similar,” he he says. says. “We’re “We’re not not simulations getting any free lunch from additional understanding getting any free lunch from additional understanding of the the climate climate system.” system.” of

VE VE NIC NIC E, E, II TA TA LY LY We’re We’re not not getting getting any any free free lunch lunch from from the the world’s world’s economies, either. With only a single year’s economies, either. With only a single year’s lull lull in in 2009 2009 at at the the height height of of the the financial financial crisis, crisis, we’ve we’ve continued to pour record amounts of carbon continued to pour record amounts of carbon into into the the atmosphere, year after year. In late May, the atmosphere, year after year. In late May, the InterInter-

ANTARC ANTARC TICA TICA

national national Energy Energy Agency Agency published published its its latest latest figures figures –– science fiction. So far, though, such science fiction. So far, though, such calls calls have have had had

Scientists Scientists estimate estimate that that humans humans can can pour pour roughly roughly 565 565 more gigatons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere more gigatons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere

little little effect. effect. We’re We’re in in the the same same position position we’ve we’ve been been in in for a quarter-century: CO2 emissions last year for a quarter-century: CO2 emissions last year rose rose to to

by by midcentury midcentury and and still still have have some some reasonable reasonable hope hope of staying below two degrees. This idea of a global of staying below two degrees. This idea of a global

31.6 31.6 gigatons. gigatons. How good are these numbers? This This number number is is the the scariest scariest of of all all –– one one that, that, for for the first time, meshes the political and scientific the first time, meshes the political and scientific

“carbon “carbon budget” budget” emerged emerged about about a a decade decade ago, ago, as as scientists began to calculate how much oil, coal and scientists began to calculate how much oil, coal and gas gas could could still still safely safely be be burned. burned. Since Since we’ve we’ve increased increased the Earth’s temperature by 0.8 degrees so far, the Earth’s temperature by 0.8 degrees so far, we’re we’re currently currently less less than than halfway halfway to to the the target. target. But, But, in in fact, fact, computer models calculate that even if we stopped computer models calculate that even if we stopped increasing increasing CO2 now, CO2 now, the the temperature temperature would would likely likely still rise another 0.8 degrees, as previously released still rise another 0.8 degrees, as previously released carbon carbon continues continues to to overheat overheat the the atmosphere. atmosphere. That That means we’re already three-quarters of the way means we’re already three-quarters of the way to to the the two-degree two-degree target. target. How good are these numbers? good numbers? No one is NoHow one is insisting that they’re exact, despite How good are are these these numbers? No byt onefew is insisting insisting

dimensions dimensions of of our our dilemma. dilemma. ItIt was was highlighted highlighted last last summer by the Carbon Tracker Initiative, a team summer by the Carbon Tracker Initiative, a team of of London London financial financial analysts analysts and and environmentalenvironmentalists who published a report in an ists who published a report in an effort effort to to educate educate investors investors about about the the possible possible risks risks that that climate climate change poses to their stock portfolios. change poses to their stock portfolios. The The number number describes describes the the in the proven in the proven

amount amount of of carbon carbon already already contained contained coal and oil and gas reserves coal and oil and gas reserves of of the the

fossil-fuel fossil-fuel companies, companies, and and ezuela or Kuwait) that ezuela or Kuwait) that act act

the the countries countries (think (think VenVenlike fossil-fuel companies. like fossil-fuel companies.

to burn, point that this new number is In short, it’s the fossil fuel currently planning In short, on it’sthe thekey fossil fuelis we’re we’re currently planning

“

In 2007 the Galapagos were considered

endangered—

today they’re not. If only all of our

”

planet’s treasures could be so lucky.

to burn, an the key point is that this new number – 2,795 – is Five times higher than ever before. The Carbon Tracker Initiative – led by James Leaton, an environmentalist who served as an adviser at the accounting giant PricewaterhouseCoopers – combed through proprietary databases to figure out how much oil, gas and coal the world’s major energy companies hold in reserve. The numbers aren’t perfect – they don’t fully reflect the recent surge in unconventional energy sources like shale gas, and they don’t accurately reflect coal reserves, which are subject to less stringent reporting requirements

3.2 percent from the year before. America had a

warm winter and converted more coal-fired power plants to natural gas, so its emissions fell slightly; China kept booming, so its carbon output (which

recently surpassed the U.S.) rose 9.3 percent; the

Japanese shut down their fleet of nukes post-Fukushi-

ma, so their emissions edged up 2.4 percent. “There

have been efforts to use more renewable energy and improve energy efficiency,” said Corinne Le Quéré,

who runs England’s Tyndall Centre for Climate Change Research. “But what this shows is that so far the effects have been.” How good are these numbers?

than oil and gas. But for the biggest companies,

MT.NIC KILIMANJARO VE E, I TA LY

the figures are quite exact: If you burned everything

In fact, study after study predicts that carbon emissions

in the inventories of Russia’s Lukoil and America’s

will keep growing by roughly three percent a year

ExxonMobil, for instance, which lead the list of oil

– and at that rate, we’ll blow through our 565-giga-

and gas companies, each would release more than

ton allowance in 16 years, around the time today’s

40 gigatons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

preschoolers will be graduating from high school.

Which is exactly why this new number, 2,795

“The new data provide further evidence that the door

gigatons, is such a big deal. Think of two degrees

to a two-degree trajectory is about to close,” said Fatih

Celsius as the legal drinking limit – equivalent to the

Birol, the IEA’s chief economist. In fact, he continued,

0.08 blood-alcohol level below which you might get

“When I look at this data, the trend is perfectly in line

away with driving home. The 565 gigatons is how

with a temperature increase of about six degrees.”

many drinks you could have and still stay below that

That’s almost 11 degrees Fahrenheit, which would

WANDERLUSTMAG.COM

21 9

strategies don’t work. Green groups, for instance, have spent a lot of time trying to change individual lifestyles: the iconic twisty light bulb has been installed by the millions, but so have a new generation of energy-sucking flatscreen TVs. Most of us are fundamentally ambivalent about going green: We like cheap flights to warm places, and we’re certainly not going to give them up if everyone else is still taking them. Since all of us are in some way the beneficiaries of cheap fossil fuel, tackling climate change has been

of companies do rotten things in the course of their business – pay terrible wages, make people work in sweatshops – and we pressure them to change those practices,” says veteran anti-corporate leader Naomi Klein, who is at work on a book about the climate crisis. “But these numbers make clear that with the fossil-fuel industry, wrecking the planet is their business model. It’s what they do.”

VE NIC E, I TA LYISLANDS GALAPAGOS

perceive – correctly – that their individual actions will not

You could argue that this is simply in the nature of these

make a decisive difference in the atmospheric concentra-

companies – that having found a profitable vein, they’re

tion of CO2; by 2010, a poll found that “while recycling is

compelled to keep mining it, more like efficient automatons

widespread in America and 73 percent of those polled are

than people with free will. But as the Supreme Court has

paying bills online in order to save paper,” only four percent

made clear, they are people of a sort. In fact, thanks to the

had reduced their utility use and only three percent had

size of its bankroll, the fossil-fuel industry has far more free

purchased hybrid cars. Given a hundred years, you could

will than the rest of us. These companies don’t simply exist

conceivably change lifestyles enough to matter – but time is

in a world whose hungers they fulfill – they help create the

precisely what we lack. At this point, effective action would

boundaries of that world. Left to our own devices, citizens might decide to regulate

industry wants to burn safely in the soil, not just changing

carbon and stop short of the brink; according to a recent

slightly the speed at which it’s burned.

poll, nearly two-thirds of Americans would back an interna-

Almost every government with deposits of hydrocarbons

tional agreement that cut carbon emissions 90 percent by

straddles the same divide of hypocrisy applies across the

2050. But we aren’t left to our own devices. Environmental-

ideological board. So: the paths we have tried to tackle

ists, understandably, have been loath to make the fossil-fuel

global warming have so far produced only gradual, halting

industry their enemy, respecting its political power and

shifts. A rapid, transformative change would require build-

hoping instead to convince these giants that they should turn

ing a movement, and movements require enemies. As John

away from coal, oil and gas and transform themselves more

F. Kennedy put it, “The civil rights movement should thank

broadly into “energy companies.” Sometimes that strategy

God for Bull Connor. He’s helped it as much as Abraham

appeared to be working – emphasis on appeared. The five

Lincoln.” And enemies are what climate change has lacked.

biggest oil companies have made more than $1 trillion in

But what all these climate numbers make painfully, use-

WANDERLUST WINTER 2012 2012

ber One to the survival of our planetary civilization. “Lots

like trying to build a movement against yourself . People

require actually keeping most of the carbon the fossil-fuel

10 22

reckless like no other force on Earth. It is Public Enemy Num-

profits since the millennium – there’s simply too much money

fully clear is that the planet does indeed have an enemy –

to be made on oil and gas and coal to go chasing after

one far more committed to action than governments or indi-

zephyrs and sunbeams.

viduals. Given this hard math, we need to view the fossil-fuel

Much of that profitprofit stemsstems from from a single historical accident: Much of that a single historical ac-

industry in a new light. It has become a rogue industry,

cident:among Alone businesses, among businesses, the fossil-fuel Alone the fossil-fuel industry isindustry allowed to

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roughly 565 more gigatons of carbon dioxide into the atmo-

currently being finalized in advance of the next report by

limit – the beers, say, in an evening. sphere by six midcentury andyou stillmight have consume some reasonable hope

the they’ve Intergovernmental worked so hard Panel theseonpast Climate yearsChange. to figure “Looking out how

And the 2,795 That’sThis theidea threeof12-packs of staying belowgigatons? two degrees. a globalthe “carbon

at them asthe they in, they tar hardly differ at all,” saysmiles Tom to unlock oilcome in Canada’s sands, or how to drill

fossil-fuelemerged industry has onathe table,ago, already opened and budget” about decade as scientists began

Wigley, climatologist the National Center for beneath an theAustralian sea, or how to frack theatAppalachians.

ready to pour. to calculate how much oil, coal and gas could still safely be

Atmospheric “There’s maybe 40 models data So far, as Research. I said at the start, environmental effortsintothe tackle

We have five timesincreased as much oil coal and gas on burned. Since we’ve theand numbers.

set now,warming compared with 20 before. But soemissions far the numbers global have failed. The planet’s of carbon

theEarth’s books temperature as climate scientists think is safe to burn. by 0.8 degrees so far, we’reWe’d currently

are pretty much the same.especially We’re justasfine-tuning things. I dioxide continue to soar, developing countries

havethan to keep 80 percent of those reserves away less halfway to the target. But, in fact,locked computer models

don’t think much has changed over the William emulate (and supplant) the industries of last the decade.” West. Even in rich

underground avoid that fate. Before we knew those numcalculate that to even if we stopped increasing CO2 now, the

Collins, a senior climate scientist at the Lawrence Berkeley countries, small reductions in emissions offer no sign of the

bers, our fatewould had been Now, barring massive temperature likelylikely. still rise another 0.8some degrees, as

National agrees. “I think the to results of the this iron round real breakLaboratory, with the status quo we’d need upend

intervention, it seemscarbon certain. previously released continues to overheat the atmo-

of simulations will be quite similar,” he says theoffollowing logic of these three numbers. Germany is one the only big

Yes, this andwe’re gas and oil is three-quarters still technicallyofinthe theway sphere. Thatcoal means already

statement: “We’re not getting freetolunch from countries that has actually triedany hard change its additional energy

soil. it’s already economically aboveground – it’s figured to theBut two-degree target. How good are these numbers?

understanding of the climate in system.” mix; on one sunny Saturday late May, that northern-latitude

into one share borrowing against No is prices, insistingcompanies that they’reare exact, but fewmoney dispute that

We’re not getting anyhalf freeits lunch from the solar world’s econonation generated nearly power from panels

it, nations are basing on thefigure presumed returns they’re generally right.their The budgets 565-gigaton was derived

mies, With only lull–inand 2009 at the withineither. its borders. That’sa asingle smallyear’s miracle it demon-

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