e n n e i v i V westwood
COURSEWORK 1 Branding Research project (group) 50% Student’s full name: Anna Jarboh,Clarissa Larrain,Isabel Moreno, Nathalie Larsson,Valentina Carreño Course and Level, year BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 6, 2018-2019 Module title: 6FAMK002C International Branding and Sustainability Subject Coursework: CWK1 Teacher/s: Alejandro González, Clara Mallart Word count:
1.INTRODUCTION INTERNAL ANALYSIS 1 a) Company Analysis 1 b) Vivienne Westwood’s Timeline 1 c) Literature Review 1 d) Vivienne Westwood’s Brand Identity Onion and Elements. 1 e) Vivienne Westwood’s Declared Target 1 f) Vivienne Westwood’s Persona Canvas 1 g) Vivienne Westwood’s Marketing Mix 1 h) SWOT 1 i) Vivienne Westwood´s Positioning
INDEX
2.EXTERNAL ANALYSIS 2 a) PEST Analysis 2 b) Trends in The Industry 2 c) Competition Analysis 2 d) Benchmark Analys 3. STRATEGY 3 a) In POS 3 b) Communication Analysis (offline&online) 3 c) Vivienne Westwood’s Competitive Strategy. 3 d) Conclusion/Suggestions
INTRODUCTION
This research, the sustainable luxury fashion brand, Vivienne Westwood will be evaluated to determine the brand elements, to develop a brand structure and international expansion strategy. Through the analysis of the brand elements, it will be determined if the brand is transmitting in a coherent method their ethics and sustainable model. The decision to analyze the brand of Vivienne Westwood arose from the interest of knowing her career, and the method in which she implements her vision of the world through her business. Vivienne Westwood has managed to stand out in the fashion industry by communication through her creations; she mentions and takes actions on taboos topics, with the aim of raising awareness. Lastly, it is intriguing to analyze the talent of the designer, to see beyond the superficial, and how she studies the past to anticipate the future.
AL S N I R S Y E T L A IN AN
Company Analysis
Vivienne Westwood, the designer, launched a brand which represents her, a “punk, icon, activist” individual; the designer and the brand are one. When Vivienne Westwood is being mentioned, it is associated with the Punk culture since it is identified as the movement which represents challenge, rebelliousness and the fight against oppression; this was one of the elements which influence Westwood’s designs. She is an activist, she works to raise conscience and displaying her concerns and ideologies through her designs. Environmental issues, human rights, and political controversies are some of the main themes in her fashion; however, always maintaining the Punk influence and ideology. She is also known for several innovation examples such as styling bras and corset over the shirts and being the first designer to place sneaker on the runway. She was also known for the cutting techniques, utilized in the 17th and 18th century, since she implemented them in men’s trousers, and are currently used in her designs awakening controversy in the fashion industry. Lastly, she believes that “it is about quality, not quantity, not landfill” that society is the change for a better future.
1971-1980
1981-1987
1988–1992
1993–1999
2000 to present
Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren opened their first store in London called Let it Rock. They created pieces inspired by the rebellion, especially from 1950’s clothes, then they renamed the store Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die, and they turned the style of biker clothes, using zips and leather. Westwood and Malcolm had their first catwalk show, called The Pirate Collection, which was inspired by the romantic look. The style paid tribute to the history and the third world; also the Native Americans inspired her to create ethnic cuts. This moment was significant for her due to how she developed a new technique of cutting based on rectangles, which she is yet applying. This time was a transformation for Westwood since she changed the punk style and biker clothes to designs for the upper class, which she got inspired by the Royal family. Since then, Westwood began to utilize British textiles, such as wool and black velvet. Then in 1990, she launched her first menswear collection in Florence and also was named British designer of the years.; since then she initiated to be a more global designer. A significant aspect during started to design wedding dresses. During this period, Westwood had varied collections which were a combination between French and English. The brand developed a new silhouette and implemented the ultimate hourglass figure with padded bust and bustle; now constructed out of a lightweight metal cage and it was included in her catwalks, with high platforms. Also, Westwood launched “Debut”, the fragrance Then in 1993 she collaborated with Swatch, and it was the first time to release watches in the market. Lastly, in 1999 Vivianne introduced her first line of eyewear. “Beginning to put historicism to one side, Westwood returned to a more asexual cut, exploring the natural dynamic of the fabric by treating like a living mass” (The Story so far - Vivienne Westwood, 2018).2006 Westwood made a collaboration with Nine West. 2010 The designer launched notebooks and diaries with her classic prints.2012 Westwood worked with the Woolmark company and as a result, she created a luxury collection made from the finest wool produced in Australia.Present Vivienne Westwood and Burberry announced their collaboration to create a limited edition collection.
Time Line
LITERATURE REVIEW
Introduction This research objective is to identify and establish the strategy and the distribution techniques behind, the highly developed brand, Vivienne Westwood. By analyzing, investigating and evaluating the brands business plan in order to reach a greater understanding of the brands secret to success. This will be done by exposing factors, brand values, key drivers, and personalities that are relevant to this research. Therefore the brand has been divided into its four personality subcategories to analyze the brand coherence. Sustainability Sustainability is one of the keys of the brand, and it is currently a significant topic in society due to the awareness of the negative repercussion fashion has on the environment. This awareness has been raised by transparency, the access consumers have on information, and many celebrities such as Emma Watson featuring designs made entirely of recycled plastic bottles by Calvin Klein at the met gala (dazeddigital, 2017). Several results revealed the issue, and in the UK brands started taking action, a new moment “Positive Fashion” and “commit to switch to a green energy supplier by 2020” (vogue.co.uk, 2017 and well made clothes, 2017). Westwood is one of the designers pushing the fashion industry to become green. She speaks firmly about not implementing plastics and nonsustainable materials; although previous results from (remake.world, 2018 and eluxemagazine, 2017) raise the awareness that there is a contradiction between Westwoods values and her business practices. Political Concerns The brand discusses many topics concerning several social values such as climate revolution, political concerns, and equality. According to Westwood herself “the most important weapon we have is public opinion” (British Fashion Council, artsandculture, 2017 and theguardian, 2018) this is a message she spreads through her designs, advertisement and demonstrating about human rights. Westwood discusses the forces that seem to be contradicting in terms of political debates; in 2015 Westwood was spotted saying Yes to Scottish independence. According to (Dazed, 2015 and independent, 2014) Westwood, who is English was caught saying “I hate England. I like Scotland because somehow I think they are better than we are. They are more democratic.” She also released a video urging Scots to vote ‘Yes’ in order to “break the deadlock and march into the future.” Diversity & Equality A clear case of trend discovery is the respect of diversity and equality, Vivienne Westwood is applying diversity in her campaigns such as making “wearing a skirt genderless” (independent, 2017). Nowadays, a significant number of brands are following her lead with this trend, designers such as XimonLee, Zander Zhou, Craig Green, and J.W. Anderson are also disputing for genderless clothes. (scmp, 2017). Previous research (fashionista, 2017) proves that this fashion season has been more diverse than ever, although there is yet a long journey for complete equality (theguardian,2015)
Brand Identity Onion
“All artistic movement must have an image�. -Vivienne Westwood-
WHEEL OF VALUES
Brand Name
Vivienne Westwood
The orb symbol Logo Red, black, white, gold, grey and striking colors.
Colors “Buy less, choose well and make it last�
Tagline/ Slogan
BRAND ELEMENTS
Royal and goth
Fonts character / brand personality
Tone not specific
Sounds not specific
Smells British heritage
Store Environment
The brand’s name is the same as the designer’s name. The name correlates perfectly the company and the designer since as mentioned previously, she reflects herself in her work.
The logo is composed by the orb and the name of the brand. The orb was created and implemented in the 80s, it represents the past (British royalty) and the future (Saturn ring), therefore the idea of taking tradition into the future. The logo can be visible on labels, buttons embroidery, perfume bottle and also she implements the iconic symbol in the chandeliers in some flagship stores and in the clothing racks the stores.
The anarchist, red and black flag, relates the black color of anarchism with the red color of syndicalism or labor movement. The gold color displays the luxurious facet of the brand. The white represents neutrality. and the striking colors to draw attention depending on the campaign.
Vivienne Westwood aspires to educate and raise awareness on her consumer, through the implementation of her slogan. There should be an alteration in the consumer behavior, due to globalization, social media, massive consumption, and the production of goods. Westwood desires that consumers shop reflects about the product they desire to purchase regarding its quality and sustainability.
The fonts utilized by the brand, represent the brand heritage and elegance.
The brand knows how to convey a positive message with a strong determination. The tone of voice is extravagant, honest, direct, and educational.
There are no specific sounds or songs related to Vivienne Westwood
There are no specific smells related to Vivienne Westwood
“Vivienne Westwood has flown the flag for Britain across the universe”; The British culture, the history, and the representation of society from her point of view. When consumers visit her stores, they are teletransported to England; the atmosphere, music, colors, prints, and style are a representation of english vintage, and it can be identified from the window display to the dressing rooms. Furthermore, the clients at the store emerge into an exclusive service which is focused on providing a personalized experience.
Red Label RTW
-Woman -Age 20-45 -Rebellious -Independent and confident
Gold Label
-Woman -Age 37-65 -Couture line -Fashion forward -Iconic brand image -Innovative women -Rule breakers -Desirer of being unique and bold
Anglomania
-Women and menswear -Ages 18-35 -Avantgard -Political awareness -Punk but at the same time elegant
Menswear
-Age 25-42 -Bold -Artistic -Cares about the environment Ethical values and political awareness -Desirer of wearing rebellious designs
t e g r a T d e r a l c De
Primary Target
“The Rule Breaker” -Desirer of being unique and bold. -Looking for clothes with high quality with style, prefer to invest in statement clothes that are long-lasting. -Loves breaking the rules. -Punk, “Do it yourself ” attitude. -Independent women and men with high self-esteem. -Ages 25-65. -Ethical values and political awareness. -Express through their clothes. -Quite aware of the negative impact the fashion industry has on the environment Main buyers USA, UK, Asia, mainly representing the UK. -Looking for rebellious designs.
Secondary Target
“The Fashionista” -Loves fashion and is up to date with the latest fashion trends. -Knows he/she style Confidence that portrait his/hers personality through her clothes. -Ages 18-37. -Values investing in a more expensive apparel than buying fast fashion. -Well educated. -Social and outgoing character. -Cares for the environment.
TARGET
Persona Canvas Name: Geraldine Age: 32
Nationality: British
Role: Photographer
Income: 2.100 â‚Ź
Needs: Being Unique, bold and elegant, environmentally friendly, rebellious, daring, attitude
Fashion Needs: Up to date with trends, Express her personality through clothes and accessories, Bold and punky
Where they shop: Physical stores, vintage markets, special items from online.
Brands: Vivienne Westwood, Mango, Topshop, Alexander McQueen, Moschino
Interests: Social, punk music, vegan food, human rights, politics
Social Media: Facebook, Instagram, Twitter
Negative trends: Brexit and right-wing Positive trends: Vegan food is rising, people are becoming more aware of politics are on the rise environmental issues Headaches: Politics, stress, environmental issues.
Opportunities: New platforms for photography, brands care more of the environment in production.
Fears: Living in a materialistic world, becoming a mainstream person, giving out the wrong message.
Hopes: Making a statement with her clothes,creating a more equal society, being connected with the designer´s beliefs and attitude.
Product
-Women: Clothing, Bags, Shoes, Jewelry, Accessories -Men: Clothing, Bags, Shoes, Jewelry, Accessories -Unisex: Clothing, Bags, Shoes, Jewelry, Accessories -Gifts and Homeware: Yoga Mats, Bottles, Books, Cushions, Perfumes, Umbrellas, Children’s Wear
Price -21€-7000€
Place
-E-commerce. -Physical Stores.
Promotion -Magazines Reinforces the brand identity and their ideologies The brand can be identified with ease: i.e. Vogues, Elle and Vanity Fair ·Advertisement ·Editorials -E-commerce: ·Consumer friendly. ·Easily controlling. -Articles: ·Brand ideologies -Blogs: ·“Climate Revolution” Westwood’s ideologies, thoughts, and actions regarding the topic ·“World End” -Social Media: ·Facebook/Links to blogs/Sign Up for newsletters ·Instagram ·Images ·Products ·Short FIlms ·Ideologies/ Campaigns/Catwalks -Celebrity endorsement: ·Raise brand awareness ·Communicate the brand message ·Gifting ·Catwalks
Marketing Mix
Production A/W 2016/17
BCG CHART
Strength -Innovative and unique products. -Niche with bold, punk/rock style. -Sustainable and cares for the environment. -Supports diversity. -High quality and long-lasting products. -Strong distribution. -The brand expresses awareness of current issues of political and. -Social values. -Active on social media channels. -Attracting many celebrities wearing the products. -Strong style and ideology. -International brand. -Recognizable Style.
Weaknesses -Niche market and not all consumers feel attractive to the style. -A bold style for a niche target -Weak international awareness
Opportunities
Threats
-The brand has a positive impact on the environment. -Quality innovation, better quality and new ways of producing. -Long-lasting products. -Social media trend and new technology, easier to interact withend consumers and promote products. -Increase their brand awareness. -Increase the impact and influence in taboo topics (i.e. political, social, and equality).
-Competition. -The “buy less� campaign, maybe the brand lose sales through this message and consumers stops purchasing products from the brand. -Consumers choosing similar products from fast fashion. -Higher prices for raw sustainable materials and consumers may not be willing to pay more. -Upcoming designers with similar values. -Change in the economy. -Lack of interest on the style.
W O T
S
Vivienne Westwood has been from the start inspired from the Punk genre, which shows it strong stance through its rarity within the fashion world. With a combination of strong political opinions as well as contributing to a better world, it reaches out to those that share the same type of values. The core of Vivienne Westwood and what makes the brand power is mainly their identity and that it has remained the same since the 80’s, which stands out amongst other fashion brands. The brand is considered to fall within the premium product segment where their fashion belongs to a more luxurious market. In comparison to their competitors, their brand Identity is politically focused, which is shown in their campaign as well. Not many fashion brands today have a strong political opinion as part of their values; Vivienne Westwood belongs to a niche market and her consumers are most likely to have that in common with the brand or at least when it comes to Vivienne’s brand awareness that the same strong believes as well as the relation or lifestyle to Punk and rock music.
The positioning map below has been considered through research and analysis on where they stand in comparison to each other and what values and responsibilities each brand takes into account.
The rating chart is an overview of the brands positions in numbers in the positioning map, where the scale of numbers heads from 1 to 10 in international awareness and Sustainability, where 10 is the highest position where the brand is the strongest whilst 1 is the weakest or not an important factor for the brand’s current or future achievements.
Brand Positioning
AL N R S I E S T Y L EX A AN
Political
Economical
Social
Technology
-Strong political stability. -Brexit had enabled insecurities and doubts about the country. -Countries are interested in negotiating and investing in the UK.
-Since the Brexit election, the UK’s economy has had a continuous economic growth. -The low unemployment rate, it is as low as 4% Breaking loose from the European Nation (which becomes valid in April 2019) could affect the economy negatively or positively. -Martin(2018) Forecast that without a deal the United Kingdom can suffer from a decreasing economy.
-The UK is one of the most densely populated developed countries. -Liberties and rights afforded to individuals by the authorities and government. -Public healthcare services. -Projects to care for children, the unemployed and disabled residents. -Multicultural,multi.ethnic country -Immigration is contributing to a rising population -The Uk is famous for its education institution, especially its higher education institutions, which attract students from all over the world. -England is a point of reference when talking about social and artistic movements. -England is a country with a significant flow of tourists from all over the world as the country has a rich and vast cultural heritage.
-The UK has installed CCTV cameras for surveillance purposes. -E-commerce has expanded and today companies online sales has increased. -Free roaming for EU citizens -Communication has expanded through social media, upgraded wifi connection, and smartphones. -New apps like Uber, car to go and Lyft makes it easier and cheaper for people to travel. -Fast and well-developed delivery services make it easier for consumers to buy online and send back products.
PEST Analysis
Trends in The Industry
To understand Westwood’s brand, actions and performance, the trends in the industry must be identified to comprehend the reasoning behind. 1-Personalization
3-Getting global
Nowadays personalization has become indispensable for all companies, it can be seen in customer service, sales, and marketing. This tool facilitates the improvement of the customer experience Furthermore, the use of artificial intelligence, which currently has an influence in the 2-Sustainability industry has enabled companies to customize their content to every As a result of globalization and individual. the internet revolution, today the consumers have the capacity to acquire information about what is happening in the industry. Sustainability is a global trend that has forced brands and consumers to be more awareness for the environment and provide a better future for the next generations.
Brands are entering a phase in which there are globalizing since they desire to reach diverse markets. This has forced brands to improve their e-commerce since it is the principal platform to distribute their good globally; also, the experience online must be customer friendly for them to have a positive experience and have a satisfactory purchase. The retailers are currently found on different platforms, including their own e-commerce, apps, and social media shopping; this enables the customer to have access to purchase any day at any time. Lastly, globalization enables companies to increase their sales since a greater amount of people are able to purchase their products, regarding their location.
4-Diversity Nowadays, it can identify how diversity is being implemented in several methods, and it is not only referring to size but also nationality, race, sexual orientation, and religion. The perception of beauty has been changing with time, and it has enabled an impact on society and their perception of its meaning; this is due to the use of social media, magazines, and advertising, and it has been developed by leading companies which have little by little represented the wrong connotation of what is known as beauty, the unreal perfection.
Main Competitors
Competitive Advantage
Alexander McQueen
The brand belongs nowadays under the Kering group, where they have recently started to implement sustainability into account and are want their brands to contribute more positively to the environment. Within the luxurious fashion industry, Kering has been named “most sustainable global corporation” also with further plans for the future with an aim by 2025 to reduce 40% of their environmental impacts. Marfil (2018) Moreover, Alexander McQueen has, before his death, designed very unique pieces which also could be seen in his outstanding fashion shows, his difference in his way of creating fashion may be the reason for his great recognition amongst celebrities as well as others.
Stella McCartney
A British brand with a strong emphasis on sustainability, where Stella do not use any animal based material; nevertheless, the brand is highly focused on creating garments out of ecological material with an aspiration to affect the fashion industry to become more sustainable.
Moschino
With Jeremy Scott as the creative director, the brand strives for a colorful and lively form of style, they create designs that are supposed to shock and cause attention. Logomania and pop culture in current fashion would be referred to Moschino, as well as they use celebrities including Lady Gaga, and Miley Cyrus to promote the brand. By breaking stereotypes such as in their previous advertising, in 2015, displaying a male portraying Barbie as “Fierce”. Which could be seen as an aspiration to break the definition of how males or females are supposed to act, dress or in general be like.
Burberry
Burberry has existed ever since 1856 and is most famous for the timeless trench coat as well as the Burberry Tartan pattern that could be seen as their signature trademark. They have a strong brand awareness on an international level due to their heritage, they are involved in sustainable work as well, as they want to reduce their environmental footprints by 2022.
Competitor Analysis
Strong Brand Identity
Strong values that they showcase in various social media platforms as well as through marketing with different ethical charities, which they combine with their latest fashion collection.
Sustainable
BENCHMARK
Societal Works
They are all about radiating sustainability, and give a feeling of trust and transparency in all of their products to the customer.
Unique and dramatic pieces what has it inspirations in the world of fantasy, that identity has remained even after the deceased desig-
Playful and unique pi ces is what creates th brands strong identity.
ner, McQueen Does not use any fur or leather in her creations which has become one of the Stella McCartney greatest advantage in the premium fashion industry.
Collaborations with various societal charities and other positive reinforcements in different social issues.
Stella McCartney collaborates with several charities mainly animal related, but do also support cancer related charities.
Alexander before his death started a scholarship foundation called sarabande , they hand out money to students with creative minds.
Has created various coll tions for a good cause in society, such as a capsule llection he did together w niceklodeon and the orga zation (RED) to fight AID And an earlier campaign where they were trying break gender stereotypes.
Online store
Worldwide Shipping
They ship to 97 diffe- Shipps to 100 coun- They ship 102 diffe- Ships to 70 countrie rent countries at cu- tries. rent countries. worldwide. rrent moment.
Newsletter
Social Media
International Stores
Facebook Instagram Pinterest Twitter
Facebook Instagram Pinterest Twitter Tumblr Snapchat
Facebook Pinterest Twitter Tumblr Fancy
Facebook Instagram Twitter Pinterest Youtube
iehe
lecthe cowith aniDS. ad to
Burberry is most recognized because their heritage and has a long history on the market, and the invention of the trenchcoat. Which is their strongest point of re-
The brand has a great awareness and is most probable recognized for the work they do within the gay community.
Classic fashion, yet there is not any significant values that enhance their brand identity.
The brand is all about living a jetset lifestyle,, were their creation is about looking expensive and luxurious.
cognition even today.
Say’s that they take environmental responsibilities without referring with what and how, unclear measurement of how sustainable the brand is. Burberry foundation, which was started to focus on creating a better sustainable future. They have also partnered up with other sustainable charities. .
The brand, does work within the gay community and Marc himself is an activist and supports the lesbian, gay, bi-sexual and transgender center. As well as the brand collaborates with other social charities
Playful and unique designs, the designer himself refers the brands fashion to art. And the avoidance of becoming a mainstream brand.
Recently launched A Sustainable Fragrance line. Whether or not the whole brand works towards sustainability is unclear. Designed a T-shirt where the income will be donated to charity to children that has been suffering from war, poverty and other unfortunate circumstances
But their products can found online in the multi-brand store Dover street market.
es Ships orders to 44 countries.
Facebook Instagram Twitter Google +
Ships to 25 different countries.
Ships to 59 countries They ship to 199 Dover street market worldwide. countries worldwide. ships worldwide depending on the availability of the delivery DHL.
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Facebook Instagram Twitter Pinterest Youtube Linkedin Google +
Facebook Instagram Twitter Pinterest VK
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ST
T A R
Y G E
Vivienne Westwood has become a global brand by selling her products and listening in over seventy countries. Westwood’s own stores are located in several countries, including the UK, the US, China, Taiwan, France, and the Netherlands. The Asian market is the primary market for Westwood, placing around ninety-seven stores. Furthermore, Westwood has in England a Couture store designated to bridals and VIP clients. Analyzing her focus on the Asian market, it can be determined the reasons why that significance. First, in Asia consumers highly appreciate British products, which are considered high quality. Also, due to the large population that covers Asia and their development in technology, e-commerce is highly developed as well as new platforms; which enable brands to connect with more people at once and displays free publicity. Recently, China has raised concerned about pollution and climate change; this is a significant benefit for Westwood and brand values. Cheng said, “That’s a big paradigm shift, and we are using art and Vivienne’s voice to create that message.” (Vivienne Westwood and K11 Collaborate for Climate Change | artnet News, 2017).
S I S Y L A N A S O P
Communication Analysis and Media
Vivienne Westwood utilizes storytelling through the implementation of symbols and actions to conveys her ideologies. Her inspiration is developed from political issues, cultural movements, history, and music. Westwood’s main aim is not profit and income, instead, it is to develop a significant difference in society and raise awareness in her customers. She uses every clothing piece to create a statement, her videos and photos to tell a story and to reinforce the ideology of making the world a better place. Her brand actions have been connected with controversy and drama. The way in which the designer reflects her way of thinking, and her love for generating polemic may be part of what makes her brand so appealing, and one of the most recognized brands in the world. Westwood stands up for social and political causes, she displays her way of thinking through the brand mission, and vision and the customers take notice and connect emotionally with the brand, as a result, they become part of the purpose. Over the years Vivienne Westwood has become a strong force in online and offline marketing reflecting her determination, tenacity and keeping the punk dream alive. The designer knows how to convey a positive message taking advantage of controversy.
Some examples of her campaigns are :
Vivienne westwood Provocative in punk.
Vivienne westwood fighting to raise people's awareness of climate change.
“In honor of World Water Day, Vivienne Westwood has forgone fashion in favor of her birthday suit in a new video about the meat industry’s depletion of world water supplies. “I am an eco-warrior, but I take long showers with a clean conscience because I’m vegetarian,” says Westwood as she bathes in the v i d e o” ( p e t a . o r g / nodate) “Launching a photocampaign to promote Greenpeace's efforts to Save the Arctic, backed by George Clooney and singers Chris Martin and Paloma Faith, the designer said she wanted to concentrate on preserving and improving what her company already does”.(Thorpe /2014)
Media Offline Radio paid
TV
paid
Vivienne Westwood participated in several radio segments, in which she was able to communicate her perspective on varied themes, including sexuality and gender. -She was interviewed by BBC Radio, and Woman’s Hours. Westwood has been included in documentaries and artistic fashion films. -She displays her life, and her fight with society. -She transmits her ideologies (without filter), enabling the audience to follow her creations, step by step. -I.e. Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist, Get Your Feet Wet!, and Vivienne’s Playing Cards
Newspapers
Vivienne Westwood has also been feature is several newspapers for her controversial decisions and her ideologies. Some of the newspapers she has been shown are. -The New York Times, The Guardian, The Times UK, and Irish Times. -I.e. Vivienne Westwood gets political at London Fashion Week Men’s Taking over Dazed (2008) In an edition of the magazine dazed and confused she discuss political issues that she cares for, in this certain case the rising sea level.
Advertising
Vivienne Westwood’s ads are placed in high-end fashion magazines, since the brand is position as luxury. -I.e. Vogue, Vanity Fair and Elle The advertising in magazines is controversial and bold, since it displays the unexpected. Her editorials are not the perfect location with the perfect models doing the expected. Instead, they are displaying reality, the truth of the current society. -I.e. diversity, transgender, climate change, politics, and the human body. Vivienne Westwood, the designer, can also be identified in several of the advertising. This can also be identified as how the brand and the designer are connected,they are one.
paid
paid
Outdoors paid
Press
paid / earnd
Collaborations shared
The brand places billboards in the main cities to promote the brand and it’s new merchandise.
Westwood has been featured in varied magazine covers, which displays the importance she has and how influential she is in the industry; this is due to her bold personality, transparency and originality. -The magazines she appeared on and published articles were: Dazed, The Gentlewoman, and L’Officiel.
-1993 Collaboration with Swatch -2006 Vivienne Westwood x Nine West -2012 Vivienne Westwood collaborates with Woolmarket. -2015 Collaboration with Opening Ceremony and Cambridge satchel for the bags -2018 Burberry x Vivienne Westwood The strategy of Westwood is visible across her collaborations by reasons to establishing her brand in a new target and gain more international recognition.
Media Offline Store
owned
-The store’s atmosphere and service is luxurious and it is translated to the service. -The decoration varies depending on the country and type of store (own store, multi-brand, franchise). -The window displays are constituted by large windows, vintage style mannequins, the logo of the brand, and English heritage. -The mannequins are segmented by male and female to display both collections. -Westwood also uses the window display to convey strong messages. -The logo can either be made of neon lights, represent the punk influence, or gold letters, represent elegance, sophistication, and luxury. -The doors are opened transmitting a welcoming atmosphere. -The products are displayed by placing one of each, since it enables the customer to see the variety in an organized method. -The clothes are placed on clothing racks and the accessories and other elements in crystal counters Also, it reinforces exclusivity and her ideology of “Buy Less, Dress up�. -The inside of the store reflects the exclusivity, luxury, and British heritage of the brand. However, Westwood implements the logo (orb) in several elements in the store, including the lamps, and racks. -Furthermore, her ideologies are communicated with her clothes. -The packaging has the logo of the brand with the gold letter, represent elegance as previously mentioned. -The color of the bags vary; however, it maintains the color scheme of the brand .
Media Online
Website owned
Events
owned
Email/ Newsletters owned
-The brand’s website implements the colors white and black, and striking colors -This reinforces elegance, and the punk style. -The sizte is customer friendly, since it is easy to navigate -This enables the consumer to achieve a satisfactory purchase journey. -The website has a section to a blog, in which Westwood’s ideologies, values, and controversies are displayed. -I.e. Save the Arctic, and Inside Vivienne’s World.
-The brand creates events to increase the customer and consumer loyalty -The events have as a purpose to enable the guest the opportunity to immerse themselves in a fashion experience. -In the event, the designer’s aim is to empower and educate about problems through their voice. -I.e. The human impact on the earth. -Examples of the events done by Vivienne Westwood. -The Last Party on Earth. -Climate Revolution.
-The brand has a newsletter subscription through their own website. -Through this newsletter, the subscribers will be notified and informed about the latest brand news, advertising campaigns, updates, new editorial, videos, and details on the latest collection.
Social Media owned
PR
owned
-Facebook Vivienne Westwood posts brief explanations of some societal works she engages in as well as the latest “Buy less, dress up” video can be seen together with previous campaigns. A great platform for the brand to make their voice heard in their environmental works, and their products are seen. They post a combination of their latest collection and their brand values. -Instagram A combination of fashion, their campaigns and Vivienne’s activist work sets the tone for what can be found on the brands Instagram account. -Youtube Their campaign videos can be seen on youtube, where it includes her PETA video “Get your feet wet” and her latest campaign video “Buy Less, Dress up”, can be seen. There is also the possibility to subscribe to their very own channel on youtube. There is a section a whole section with video clips devoted to climate revolution. -Twitter 414K followers, shares post of her latest news in both fashion and inspirations to environmental changes for a better world. -Pinterest Vivienne Westwood has 455 followers on Pinterest and shares mostly fashion related pictures on this platform.
-Celebrity endorsement is utilized by the brand to draw and maintain customer and consumers, raise awareness of the brand, increase the Top Of Mind, and communicate the brand message, ideologies and values. -Protesting at the Paralympics “Climate Revolution” (2012) -Westwood attended the Paralympics and showed her new campaign concerning climate change. -PETA (2014) Protests together with PETA on how the meat industry affects our water supply.
Competitive Strategy Vivienne Westwood’s current advantage streams from the brand's heritage during the 80’s, where their identity mainly was the Punk genre; nowadays, they have developed it further and adapted to some trends seen within the fashion industry today, such as sustainability, whereas they encourage the population to a less consuming lifestyle seen in their newest campaign. But what is mainly differentiated is their method of attempting to make their voice heard, by contributing to positive reinforcement to change the world; such as a collaboration she has made with PETA, a previous campaign to display how the consumption of meat is negatively affecting our planet. Their political view in their brand identity has also remained since the beginning of the establishment of the brand, which also is a point that makes them stand out from most fashion brands. It can be said that with their engagements and collaborations with various ethical charity corporations they have raised their brand awareness and made their brand values heard rather than their fashion be seen. Their values are as strong as their fashion, which is seen through their marketing strategy of collaborating with several charities of same values as the brand, that makes it an easy choice for their potential consumer, in the sense of the transparency of the brand, and the consumer being able to contribute in a positive way as well. Westwood’s latest campaign “Buy less, dress up” addresses the issue of today’s consumerism, which is the cause and effect of the fast fashion business. She desires to inspire people to be creative with what already exists instead of purchasing new items.
Suggestions / conclusion From this investigation, it can be determined that Vivienne Westwood is “punk, icon, and activist� and this is due to her controversial method of communicating her ideologies, values, and self. She displays coherence between the brand elements and their actions. However, for being a globalized brand, the company is lacking international awareness. The brand has a strong national or local awareness where they have placed stores, but in the other locations is not well known. The company has a strong brand image which can facilitate the brand recognition and top of mind, however, this advantage is not being taken to its fullest. Even though Vivienne Westwood is identified as a sustainable brand and environmentally conscious, several articles and sources identify the brand as Green Wash instead of Sustainable; therefore, the brand should reinforce and apply deeply sustainability in their production and distribution in every phase of the process.
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IMAGE BIBLIOGRAPHY IMAGE 1 Robyn Beech (1984). PHOTOGRAPH FOR THE PIRATE COLLECTION [image]. Available from https://blog.viviennewestwood.com/katherine-tracy-okeeffe/ IMAGE 2 Andreas Kronthaler (2018). SPRING/SUMMER 18 CAMPAIGN [image]. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss18-campaign/ IMAGE 3 Andreas Kronthaler (2018). SPRING/SUMMER 18 CAMPAIGN [image]. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss18-campaign/ IMAGE 4 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING/SUMMER 19 CAMPAIGN. (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/ IMAGE 5 Hanna Moon (2018). Vivienne Westwood: Youth is Revolting. [image] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/article/40262/1/vivienne-westwood-activists-protesting-punk-activism-interview IMAGE 6 Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.pinterest.es/pin/363876844884900895/?lp=true IMAGE 7 Las mujeres maduras estรกn orgullosas de sus canas. (2016). [image] Available at: https://www.cosmopolitantv.es/noticias/14669/las-mujeres-maduras-estan-orgullosas-de-sus-canas IMAGE 8 Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood (2018). Spring 2019 Ready-to-wear. [image] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood/slideshow/collection#12
IMAGE 9 Andreas Kronthaler (2018). SPRING 2019 READY-TO-WEAR. [image] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/vivienne-westwood/slideshow/collection#11 IMAGE 10 Hedvig Jenning (2018). VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING/SUMMER 19 CAMPAIGN. [image] Available at: https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/ IMAGE 11 Hedvig Jenning (2018). SPRING/SUMMER 19 CAMPAIGN. [image] Available at: https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign IMAGE 12 Harper’s Bazaar Staff (2018). Vivienne Westwood unveils her autumn/ winter 2018 collection with a political message. [image] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/g15396564/vivienne-westwood-unveils-her-autumn-winter-2018-collection-with-a-political-message/?slide=54 IMAGE 13 Lea Colombo (2015). Gareth Pugh AW15. [image] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19369/19/gareth-pugh-aw15 IMAGE 14 Harper’s Bazaar Staff (2018). Vivienne Westwood unveils her autumn/ winter 2018 collection with a political message. [image] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/shows-trends/g15396564/vivienne-westwood-unveils-her-autumn-winter-2018-collection-with-a-political-message/ IMAGE 15 Chloé Le Drezen (2015). Backstage at Vivienne Westwood AW15. [image] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19374/15/vivienne-westwood-aw15 IMAGE 16/17 Hedvig Jenning (2018). VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SPRING/SUMMER 19 CAMPAIGN. [image] Available at: https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/ IMAGE 18 Hanna Moon (2018). Vivienne Westwood talks to the young and defiant characters of Britain for Dazed. [image] Available at: https://models.com/feed/?p=69959 IMAGE 19 Hanna Moon (2018). Vivienne Westwood: Youth is Revolting. [image] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/article/40262/1/vivienne-westwood-activists-protesting-punk-activism-interview IMAGE 20 Dazed (2018). A new generation of activists interview Vivienne Westwood. Dazed. Available from
http://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/article/40262/1/vivienne-westwood-activists-protesting-punk-activism-interview. IMAGE 21 Weinstock, T. (2018). este fotógrafo quiere dar visibilidad a personas con anomalías en la piel. I-d. VICE. Available from https://i-d.vice.com/es/article/zm8vme/peter-devito-fotografia. IMAGE 22 Ganna Bobdan (no date). Photogenics Media. Available from https://photogenicsmedia.com/model/ganna-bogdan-main/#portfolio. IMAGE 23 Vivienne Westwood (no date). Spring/Summer 19 Campaign | Vivienne Westwood. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/ IMAGE 24 Dazed (no date). Youth is Revolting - summer 2018. Dazed. Available from http://www.dazeddigital.com/life-culture/gallery/25275/1/youth-is-revolting-summer-2018. IMAGE 25 / 26 Vivienne Westwood (no date). CENTRAL EMBASSY. Available from http://www.centralembassy.com/store/vivienne-westwood/. IMAGE 27/28/29 original Vivienne Westwood shop #LondondotBuzz | London.Buzz | Pinterest | Vivienne wes twood, London and Shopping (no date). Pinterest. Available from https://www.pinterest.es/pin/421719952581734301/?lp=true. IMAGE 30/ 31 Vivienne Westwood (no date). Spring/Summer 19 Campaign | Vivienne Westwood. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/ IMAGE 32 Admin (2016). La contre-culture n’est pas morte, elle n’a jamais existé. Available from http://magazineantidote.com/mode/la-contre-culture-nest-pas-morte-elle-n-a-jamais-existe/. IMAGE 33 Why the T-shirt is so irresistible (2018). CNN. Cable News Network. Available from https://edition.cnn.com/style/gallery/t-shirt-cult-culture-subversion-exhibition/index.html IMAGE 34 UK, P.E.T.A. (2014). Vivienne Westwood -- Get Your Feet Wet! YouTube. YouTube. Available from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuROuLpoJLY. IMAGE 35/36 Vivienne Westwood (no date). Save The Arctic | Vivienne Westwood. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/westwood-world/save-the-artic-campaign/.
IMAGE 37/38/39 Vivienne Westwood (no date). Spring/Summer 19 Campaign | Vivienne Westwood. Available from https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/collections/vivienne-westwood/ss19-campaign/