AGAIN Magazine

again Fa l l i n l o v e w i t h y o u r c l o t h e s a l l o v e r

i am a Free magazine

TABLE OF CONTENT BUYING THE M I L L E NNI AL’S G U I D E TO T HR IF T IN G - P G 7

L O O K G O O D, D O GOOD - PG 9

I T ’S A KE E P ER - P G 1 1

(N) OCD - PG 13

H AND M E D OWN - P G 1 5

T HR ILL OF THE HU NT - PG 21

HOW TO S P E N D IT - P G 2 3

STYLING OLD SPORT - PG 25

READY. SE T. H AC K - P G 3 5

R E F R A IN . S U S TA IN . G A IN - P G 37

RAG L AD I E S & R AR E B I R D S O F FA S HIO N - P G 3 9

CARING C L OT HM E T IC S U R G E RY - PG 49

WE AR T H E M WE L L , D I T C H T HE S M E L L . - P G 5 0

OI, LA U ND RY-PHOB ES! - PG 51

EDITORS LETTER Nowadays, being 100 per cent sustainable is nearly impossible. Personally, I've often struggled with the topic of sustainability, especially when it was related to fashion. Countless problems and not one solution I found useful as a student on a budget. This is why at AGAIN we decided to do things differently.

We’re not here to bore you with facts and numbers that make it difficult to grasp the severity of the issue at hand. It’s simple - the pace at which we are consuming fashion has become out of control - with 350,000 tonnes of clothes worth an estimated £140 million (seven times the price of Beyoncé’s mansion, currently worth £20 million) ending up in landfills in the UK alone, it’s time for us to slow down. None of this sounds particularly sexy, cool or fun and now you must be left thinking ‘I get it, it’s bad but what am I supposed to do?’ Good question.

There are simple adjustments all of us can implement into our everyday lives that in fact have a positive impact on the environment without compromising our personal style. Not to mention, all the money you’d save. So, what are these adjustments, you ask? Well, that’s exactly what AGAIN is here for. Inspired by the initiative Love Your Clothes which is actively encouraging everyone to slow down the pace at which we buy and throw away clothes, we decided to draw attention to this matter. So we hopped on the Earth conscious bandwagon and created AGAIN, a magazine packed with tips, tricks and informative bits determined to help you make the best of what you already own. No guilt-tripping sermon.

In Clothmetic Surgery, we show you how to jazz up outdated pieces in just a few simple steps whilst Michelle Yao explains how to extend your wardrobe’s lifespan by washing right. If you already exhausted everything your closet has to offer, why not try second-hand instead of brand new? In The Millenial’s Guide to Thrifting we share our three favorite thrift apps. Of course, we didn’t forget about those who love the aesthetic of bygone eras but have a hard time slipping into someone else’s clothes. Thomas Callaly, suffers from OCD and shares how he overcame his fears and gave pre-loved garments a second chance.

Should you need to be convinced further regarding the absolute coolness of vintage and second hand, have a look through our beautiful editorials Rag Ladies & Rare Birds of Fashion and Well Sourced, Old Sport. All the sartorial eye-candy on display is pre-loved. Believe it or not.

Whether AGAIN inspires you to look at your own clothes in a different way or motivates you to go digging through discarded treasures, I encourage you to embark on a sartorial adventure of your own. Game?

VALENTINA EGOAVIL MEDINA Editor-in-chief

CAN’T GET ENOUGH? Then make sure you visit ‘Love Your Clothes’ Facebook and Instagram.

We’ll be taking over during the first week of June.

Loved it? Hated it? Snoozed?- Let us know via @loveyourclothes

T H E

VALENTINA E. MEDINA

EVANGELIA TSIPI

THOMAS CALLALY

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MANAGING EDITOR

FEATURES EDITOR

CHIRAG GROVER

PATRICIA DAYACAP

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

WRITER

TIAN CHEN

ZOE LEUNG

PHOTOGRAPHER

FASHION STYLIST

MEIKE LINTHORST PHOTOGRAPHER

T E A M

ROHAIZATUL AZHAR

ELISABETH KROHN

ALEXIA SAKELLARIOU

FEATURES EDITOR

ART DIRECTOR

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

ANA BRASIL

DINO BONACIC

WRITER

WRITER

KSENIA RYBINA

TIFFANY POON

MICHELLE YAO

WRITER

WRITER

WRITER

FASHION on a MISSION Our writers scour the second hand scene for inspiration and innovation - taking a look into the past and future of fashion

05

1. NANA KNOWS BEST

Ever thought about making a dress out of that flowery table cloth you have at home? Or even using beetroot as blusher? Probably not.

But as the maxim goes, necessity is the mother of all invention. A visit to the Imperial War Museum’s new exhibition, Fashion on the Ration: 1940’s Street Style, will convince you of this saying’s truthfulness. At a time when hardship was taking its toll on Britain daily, style managed to fight its way through the Second World. The extraordinarily inventive clothes, accessories and makeup on display, tell a story of their own.

Talking about the exhibition, on show until August this year, curator Laura Clouting explains: “Wartime utility clothing regulated standards in materials and manufacture, and demanded efficiency in production as well as less wastage”. Through television and radio, people were encouraged to “make, do and mend” to create what they needed. Patchwork night gowns, table cloth dresses and striking hats made of leftover materials are all abundantly represented in Fashion on the Ration.

Try as we may, putting ourselves in the shoes of these crafts-savvy, 1940’s women, isn’t easy. They were able to turn a man’s suit into a coat for their daughters making them the poster women for sustainability, a lesson Clouting hopes visitors learn from the exhibition.

An absolute must see.

- ANA BRASIL

2. DRESSING BY THE DECADE

Any self-professed vintage lover knows that a visit to Beyond Retro is a requisite when combing the city for pre-loved pieces. With carefully curated stores in Brick Lane, Dalston, and Soho (and even outposts in Brighton and Sweden), Beyond Retro is a treat for the sartorially conscious shopper with a fascination for nostalgic dressing. Think luxurious fur coats from the 60s, psychedelic maxi skirts from the 70s, boxy blazers from the 80s, and floral tea dresses from the 90s, neatly arranged in racks and waiting to be rifled through.

Shoes, bags, and other accoutrements are on display, too - should the need to complete the outfit (and it will) arise. On an East London shopping high? Stop by Rokit and Blitz while you’re at it, for even more vintage goodies to fill up your wardrobe.

- PATRICIA DAYACAP

3. BE COOL NOT CRUEL

If you’ve always thought that being vegan means being one of those placard-holding, dreadlock-bearing and carnivore-shaming hippies, think again. When it comes to fashion these days, lines are often blurred and barriers always transcended. Case in point: the fantastic and oh-so-stylish luxury line of shoes created by one of the new kids on the sustainable fashion block, NAK, short for No Animal Killed.

Launched February at this year’s London Fashion Week, the PETA-approved vegan brand wants to revolutionise the footwear industry by changing the way chic shoes are being made. With breathable materials that are light as air, waterproof and reminiscent of real leather, the brand offers trendy shoe styles for both men and women. They include Chelsea boots, stiletto pumps, Oxford brogues as well as Derbys. This line of kicks, sold online at www.nakfashion.com, is guaranteed to please even the most passionate activist. So grab yourself a pair and step out in style.

- EVA TSIPI

06

MILLENNIAL’S Guide to THRIFTING Out with the old, in with the new; introducing the top three apps to de-clutter your wardrobe.

“ WHY ON EARTH DID I BUY THAT PAIR OF BLACK STUDDED PLATFORM HEELS?”

2. VINTED

1. DEPOP

3. THREADFLIP

From vintage Campbell’s soup flasks to

Vinted is the perfect app for those who are

freeze-dried Amazonian bugs or iron-on patches for your

looking for an outfit for a specific occasion. Wedding, job

dying to have but the brands are now out of stock in your

jeans, Depop seems to have it all. You can find a huge

interview, you name it. Vinted will help be your personal

size? Fear not. You might find them on Threadflip and at a

variety of vintage fashion items such as Levis cut-offs,

stylist. To save time on mixing and matching different

fraction of the original price (up to 70 per cent off retail).

AC/DC T-shirts and, occasionally, some amazing finds such

pieces, browse items under different themes such as party

Other than the usual high street labels, the app is also ideal

as a Mulberry Alexa bag from blogger Chiara Ferragni, of

looks or work outfits. The app focuses on buying, selling and

for those looking for pre-loved high end products such as

Blonde Salad fame.

swapping secondhand clothing, shoes and accessories from

the classic Chanel 2.55 Reissue bag or the iconic Hermes

high street brands such as Brandy Melville, Lipsy, All Saints

Kelly bag.

The app’s Instagram-like format

Saw something on NastyGal or ASOS that you are

and Topshop.

is easy to use and understand. Sellers are 100 per cent in

A great selection of designer

control of the selling price, while buyers can negotiate

Vinted will issue a full refund if

brands at discounted prices at your fingertips, need we say

prices but also opt to swap their own items for others on

the item does not reach you, is damaged or does not fit the

more? The original prices and the discounts are listed

the app.

description provided. Also, your money is safe as payments

letting you know exactly how much you save. The app is easy

do not go through to the seller until you have received your

to browse through and use plus, with the buyer protection

order.

guarantee, items are eligible for free returns and full

Buyers need to bear in mind extra shipping costs which can go up to over £20 for

refunds.

international shipping; it’s free to list an item for sale but

Accounts could be blocked if

the seller is charged with a small fee if an item is sold

sellers hold multiple accounts with the same credit card (e.g

Phone app access is limited

through the app.

family members registering individual accounts with the

only to U.S Apple App store, hence Android users and

same credit card) which could lead to the confiscation of

potential buyers outside the states can only shop through

HIGHLIGHT: Very promising sellers such as famous bloggers

account credits. You may also face penalties should you ask

the company’s website (www.threadflip.com/shop). As for

Aimee

for unreasonable prices for items you are putting up for

the boys, sorry to tell you that Threadflip only sell women’s

sale.

fashion.

HIGHLIGHT: Vinted makes use of a pull-out sidebar menu

HIGHLIGHT: The app focuses heavily on high-end brands such

which gives users easy access to read messages, upload

as Mulberry, Alice + Olivia, and J.Crew - and can be up to 50

items, and change app settings. Users also have the option

to 70% off retail price. An Editor’s Picks section is available

to follow brand profiles such as ASOS or All Saints

for customers with less patience for digging.

Song

(@songofstyle)

and

Chiara

Ferragni

(@chiaraferragni); available for both Apple and Android users across the globe.

specifically making rummaging through virtual closets so much speedier.

- TIFFANY POON 08

LOOK GOOD, DO GOOD. What if you could kill two birds with one stone while shopping? A guilt-free, budget-friendly and environmentally-conscious bag brand is here to shake things up in the form of Generation Generous, reports Alexia Sakellariou.

There is a lack of generous people in this world. Like it or not, for many, the idea of helping those in need comes to mind only when the media draws attention to certain social matters such as natural disasters or factory collapses.

Sure, we may donate money, food or clothes, thereby providing assistance to people who don’t have the basics in order to survive, but we are also guilty of spending our money supporting companies that test their products on innocent animals or engage in slave labour practices in order to produce their designs quickly and at a cheaper cost.

And then there are all these environmental issues we have to take care of because they affect our lives. No wonder we are constantly stressed. If only there was a brand that satisfies our capitalistic urge to shop, sells products made from 100% recycled waste and provides support to those in need, right?

Good thing, the brand Generation Generous is here to help.

They say that it’s always darkest before the dawn and for Natasha Athanasiadou, founder of Generation Generous, this happened about 12 years ago when her mother, a fashion designer and a great woman, passed away from Leukaemia.

Shocked and numb, Athanasiadou wanted to follow her inherited flair for fashion by pursuing a career in the field. And so she did. She worked and travelled internationally while collaborating with well-known brands, but her experience, no matter how precious it was, unveiled the ugly truth of the fashion industry.

Athanasiadou witnessed the harsh impact of fast fashion on the producers and the environment, as well as the extreme poverty of the countries where fast fashion is produced. ‘My intense exposure to this reality and my strong belief in the power of generosity have driven my dedication to seek for a new way to use fashion, so that I can change its environmental and social impact while inspiring others to follow’ says Athanasiadou. The ‘A-ha!’ moment for her business came on Christmas Eve 2011 when she noticed the hundreds of shopping bags people were carrying on Oxford Street. At that moment, she decided to launch Generation Generous, a lifestyle brand that would be stylish and inspiring at the same time, so that the consumers can support a number of great causes by just updating their wardrobes.

So what is the big deal about this brand and why should you care? To begin with, Generation Generous is all about fair trade. For the first ‘generous’ tote bag launched, the founder wanted to keep the production of both the fabric and the bag in the same country, Taiwan. ‘Taiwan is one of the most advanced countries when it comes to recycling plastic and transforming it into all sorts of amazing high quality fabrics’ explains Athanasiadou. Producing in one location only

simplifies the process of monitoring and the people behind the brand can be sure that the working conditions are good throughout the supply chain.

Speaking of caring about other people, the brand has a truly generous cause which touched me from the beginning. It all started when the designer realised that countries like Cambodia account around 80% of their exports from the garment sector and yet suffer from extreme poverty. In order to make things right, Athanasiadou added the ‘generous’ element in her collections. This basically means that each bag includes a standard set donation of £10 into its cost, which funds carefully selected on-going projects around the world, especially charities based in fashion-producing locations like India and Cambodia. That way, each bag sold provides people with access to basic life needs such as clean drinking water, nutritious food, safe shelter, better health and empowerment to live and lead a happier life, depending on the symbolic thread colour chosen by the consumer. For example, blue threaded bags support charities that provide clean water, green threaded ones send a donation to projects that provide food and so on.

But the brand doesn’t stop there; Generation Generous cares about the environment as well. They use twenty-five 0.5cl PET plastic bottles to make the fabric of one “generous” Tote bag.

These bottles are first collected from waste and then they get sorted, cleaned, washed, turned into spun yarn and then to fabric before they end up as beautiful bags.

07

FOR THE NEXT COLLECTION ATHANASIADOU LETS ON, THE BRAND WILL BE FOCUSING MAINLY ON DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLASTICS THAT CAN BE USED FOR PRODUCING HER LINE OF BAGS.

When asked if Athanasiadou is also considering other waste materials for her bag line, the Greek designer reveals that she has been testing wastes from landfills to see how best she can make use of them. She says: ‘There are a lot of materials coming from waste that excite me and I am amazed by what technology can do. What is also important for me is the after-life cycle of the products, so I am currently looking for materials that are not only recycled but also recyclable. We’re mainly focused in different types of plastic for the next collections but I have to admit it’s not an easy job’.

Naturally, consumers sometimes feel unsure about this type of brands, especially now that the claims of ethical work have become a selling trend through the industry.

Athanasiadou, however, highlights that all consumers have the right to know where their clothes came from and even mentions that they have the power to control the market.

This is exactly why she is collaborating with a Greek non-profit organisation called Fashion Revolution; to bring more transparency in the supply chain of fashion. ‘I believe we can change the status quo of fashion when we all realise that every piece of clothing has a story behind it’ said the designer and we couldn’t agree more.

10

IF YOU’RE AFTER A WARDROBE THAT LASTS MORE THAN JUST ONE SEASON, FORGET THE TRENDS AND FOCUS ON DURABILITY. ANA BRASIL TALKS YOU THROUGH THE ART OF CHOOSING THE BEST FABRICS.

Thinking about the fabrics of the clothes you buy is a great way to start making ‘green’ choices. While textiles are the backbone of the fashion industry, they are also a major source of pollution due to the chemicals involved in their production and the amount of clothes that end up in British landfills every year. So, if you’ve found an item that you really want to buy and plan to wear it more than once or twice, make sure that the fabric reciprocates your ‘green’ conscious pledge for a happy and long lasting relationship where you can keep it as years go by. Labelling a textile as sustainable is a rather complex operation. It involves considering not only the textile production itself, but also the raw material extraction and the added chemistry. And because clothes, unlike diamonds, do not last forever, companies wanting to promote sustainability must also think about textile biodegradability and the efforts needed to transform the old and unwanted into new material or to simply dispose of it - here the options can go from landfills to composting or incineration and recycling.

Let’s take it from the top: The amount of land and water required is a key factor when we’re talking about natural fibres. In the case of synthetics like polyester or nylon, it’s the fossil fuels that represent the major worry. Since they’re made from natural gas or oil, these textiles are immensely toxic and pollutive to the environment - besides representing a heavy burden also in terms of the significant amounts of water, energy and chemicals required for their production. Also, fabrics that can be classified as ‘sustainable’ must come from a company that is concerned about the health and living conditions of its employees and takes full responsibility for the impact that the production may have on surrounding communities. This means that the companies have to think about people - whether they’re working on the factory that produces the clothing or the end consumer- and protect them from the added chemicals that go into dyes, finishes and coatings. And as consumers, you want clothes that will last in your closet and not in an open-air dumpster.

HERE ARE SOME FABRICS THAT MAKE ACHIEVING A MORE SUSTAINABLY SARTORIAL LIFESTYLE EASIER: Organic cotton: Cotton is one of the most common textile fibres. Its soft feel and versatility make it a very

use in everything from socks to nappies and towels because it is also fast drying. Although

popular fabric, especially among those with sensitive skin. But it’s not all good news for

it is a very fast-growing plant, many producers still use pesticides and fertilisers in its

the cotton lovers. It takes a lot of water to grow cotton – according to the World Wide

farming. However, the quantity of chemicals involved in Bamboo production are still lower

Fund for Nature (WWF), the cotton in one pair of jeans needs more than 8,000 litres of

when compared to other fabrics such as cotton. It’s easy to wear, but hard to find because of

water to grow. Plus, the amount of pesticides and fertilisers used by farmers in its

it’s novelty and low availability. Online, many small companies like United Bamboo

production makes cotton Public Enemy N.º1. The scenario changes completely if we’re

(http://unitedbamboo.com) or BAM (https://bambooclothing.co.uk/) specialise in this

talking about organic cotton. Besides avoiding the use of chemicals to grow the plants,

material.

organic cotton garments are free from chlorine bleaches and synthetic dyes. That’s positive for the environment and your health. More and more fashion designers and brands choose to use organic cotton. If you’re prepared to spend a bit more on a T-shirt go to

Linen:

Marks & Spencer or C&A, retailers that have signed the organic cotton pledge and in this

Made from linseed (also called flax), its fibres are taken from the stem of the plant and are

way publicly support it.

two to three times as strong as those of cotton - but less elastic in comparison. Being a natural fibre, linen is extra sustainable because it doesn’t need the amount of chemical fertilisers and pesticides - or water- used for cotton. In the flax world map, the big

Hemp:

contenders are Canada, China and Russia, who grow over 50 per cent of the total amount of

Hemp has been around for thousands of years, but has not been used to its full potential

linen available. Linen is known for having very absorbent fibres that are valued for their

by the textile industry. The plant grows almost anywhere and needs absolutely no

exceptional coolness in hot weather- also, it lasts. It’s been used for centuries as a textile

fertilisers or pesticides. Instead, it acts as a natural fertiliser on the soil where it grows,

for everything from tablecloths to trousers and therefore is pretty easy to find. Uniqlo has

doesn’t need much water and gives more fibre per square metre than other plants,

launched an affordable linen collection this Spring, so if you’re looking for cheap 100%

including cotton. So why has it been overlooked by the textile industry? Well, being a

premium French linen, you know where to go - prices start at £9.90.

variety of the Cannabis plant (whose other varieties include Marijuana), it was associated with drug use and scorned by the mainstream factories. Nowadays, the modest hemp fabric industry is becoming popular thanks to the efforts of high street brand H&M, among other

Recycled polyester:

examples, that are using it as a resource to create their clothing.

Like polyamide, polyester is an artificial fibre that is widely used around the world. This popular oil-based fibre (yes, it is in fact made from oil) is very unsustainable due to the fossil fuels involved in its production. In the last few years, its recycled versions are

Bamboo:

becoming popular due to the efforts of denim companies like Levi’s and G-Star that

Surprised? Bamboo is the new natural fibre in eco-friendly fabric town. Consumers love it

massively advertise their jeans made of recycled PET plastic bottles – polyester is in the

because of its alleged hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties. It is also more

category of polymers, the basic component of all things we usually consider to be ‘plastic’.

hydrophilic, (read: more absorbent), than cotton. This property of bamboo has boosted its

Using recycled polyester fibres means having less waste in landfills and a more sustainable usage of available resources.

12

NOCD immensely toxic and pollutive to the environment -

pesticides and fertilisers used by farmers in its production

besides representing a heavy burden also in terms of the

makes cotton Public Enemy N.º1. The scenario changes

significant amounts of water, energy and chemicals

completely if we’re talking about organic cotton. Besides

required for their production.

avoiding the use of chemicals to grow the plants, organic cotton garments are free from chlorine bleaches and

Also, fabrics that can be classified as ‘sustainable’ must

synthetic dyes. That’s positive for the environment and

come from a company that is concerned about the health

your health. More and more fashion designers and brands

and living conditions of its employees and takes full

choose to use organic cotton. If you’re prepared to spend a

responsibility for the impact that the production may have

bit more on a T-shirt go to Marks & Spencer or C&A,

on surrounding communities. This means that the retailers that have signed the organic cotton pledge and in IN LOVE WITH STYLES FROM PAST companies DECADES BUT REPELLED BY MUSTY SMELLS AND have to think about people - whether they’re this way SUSPISIOUS publicly support it.STAINS ? working on theOF factory that produces the clothing or the FOR ALL THINGS SECOND HAND. THOMAS CALLALY SHARES HIS JOURNEY OVERCOMING HIS AVERSION end consumer- and protect them from the added chemicals

Hemp:

that go into dyes, finishes and coatings.

Hemp has been around for thousands of years, but has not been used to its full potential by the textile industry. The

And as consumers, you want clothes that will last in your

plant grows almost anywhere and needs absolutely no

closet and not in an open-air dumpster.

fertilisers or pesticides. Instead, it acts as a natural fertiliser on the soil where it grows, doesn’t need much

Here are some fabrics that make achieving a more

water and gives more fibre per square metre than other

sustainably sartorial lifestyle easier.

plants, including cotton. So why has it been overlooked by the textile industry? Well, being a variety of the Cannabis

Organic cotton:

plant (whose other varieties include Marijuana), it was

Cotton is one of the most common textile fibres. Its soft

associated with drug use and scorned by the mainstream

feel and versatility make it a very popular fabric,

factories. Nowadays, the modest hemp fabric industry is

especially among those with sensitive skin. But it’s not all

becoming popular thanks to the efforts of high street

good news for the cotton lovers. It takes a lot of water to

brand H&M, among other examples, that are using it as a

grow cotton – according to the World Wide Fund for

resource to create their clothing.

Nature (WWF), the cotton in one pair of jeans needs more than 8,000 litres of water to grow. Plus, the amount of

WHO ELSE HAS WORN THEM ?

WHERE DID THEY WEAR THEM ?

DID THEY WASH ?

WHAT DISEASES DID THEY HAVE ?

It is no secret that the thought of second hand anything

death, or some other joyful disease. Henceforth, I trawl

be a reflection of their own practices. It’s clear that they

turns my stomach; if the audible gagging sounds I make

second hand shops, picking up items at arms distance,

are passionate about the longevity of vintage clothing and

aren’t proof enough, the expression of part terror, part

gripped loosely between my thumb and index finger. To me,

the detailed instructions lead me to reevaluate my

disgust wrought across my face depicts the nature of my

these garments really are contagious.

preconception that stores such as this knew nothing of the

inner most thoughts. I have never been clinically diagnosed

history of the garments or how to care for them. I’m

with suffering from Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, but

Ultimately, the question which supersedes all others in my

certain even the most frequent customers can testify, that

having completed a few online tests, all the initial

conscience when scouring a second hand clothing store is,

in general, second hand stores appear as a semi-ransacked

indications seem to present themselves. If you’re ever

‘where have these clothes been before?’. Subsequently,

array of clothes half organised on rails so jam packed that

(un)fortunate enough to spend more than perhaps an hour

‘who else has worn them?’, ‘where did they wear them?’,

the

in my company, you will quickly realise the extent of my

‘did they wash?’, ‘what diseases did they have?’, ‘did they

second-hand/vintage stores that I have visited on

issues. Significant others in my life have to endure my

die wearing said clothes due to said disease?’

London’s famous Brick Lane are anything to go by, a

ceremonious ‘getting ready’ process. 30 minute showers

clothes

suffocate

one

another.

If

the

considered approach to merchandising seems to fall by the

with the water set at a temperature no lower than 38°c,

Upon visiting the NHS website, a place that any other

wayside, except maybe for a statement faux fur or a

approximately 10 minutes morning and night spent

professional

they

patterned Wrangler shirt on show on a decapitated

brushing my teeth, then wasting 15 minutes scrupulously

emphatically stress the necessity for washing clothes

mannequin. And, for someone like me, reaching a hand into

overanalysing every inch of my appearance in the mirror

properly. Laundry detergent companies aim to assure

the midst of a clump of clothes as my fingers divide

whist dressing. My clothes themselves must be freshly

consumers that their dirty clothes will smell Spring fresh

garments, I’m half-expecting to disturb a nest of

washed; never will I ever wear something more than twice

and most importantly come out stain-free after a wash.

Sci-Fi-esque overgrown fleas. Second hand lacks the same

consecutively between washes - even jeans. Then I’ll spritz

However, according to the American Cleaning Institute, the

appeal that a carefully thought out independent boutique

myself with enough Hermés to drown the inhabitants of a

shift from high-temperature washes and harsh detergents

might. Even a shopping trip to Primark seems marginally

small island until I’m convinced anyone I happen to be

to low-temperature washes and gentle detergents is good

more appealing…

around that day won’t catch even the slightest scent of

for fabrics, sensitive skin, and the environment, but not

anything other than the woody citrus notes of my go-to

for killing laundry bacteria. The NHS advise washing items

cologne.

at a temperature no lower than 40ºc with a bleach based

Fleas themselves however, are not actually that prevalent

product to properly eradicate germs. In addition, they

and rely on a bunch of fairly specific factors in order to

Many traits of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder are

suggest separating items that are likely to contain germs;

survive and later multiply. In any case, flea epidemics on

inherently learnt - thanks Mum. She admits to finding

specifically underwear, from other items. They inform that

fabric can be eradicated fairly successfully using just a hot

library books abhorrent; her chain of thought leading her

placing wet or damp laundry in a laundry basket will

wash cycle. This fear of mine too then, may seem

to imagine the previous owner sneezing onto the pages of

encourage the reproduction of germs and insist that clean

unjustified.

the book, leaving a layer of residue that only she can

clothes should always be left to dry thoroughly before

detect as she flicks through it’s pages. Spending time

being put away or worn. Inevitably, the way that you wash

So perhaps I should give second hand clothes the chance

around my best friend is always a surefire way to inflate

your clothes will determine how clean they will be…but

that they deserve, and finally lay my paranoia to rest. It’s

my own hygiene-based qualms too. Her anti-bacterial

what consideration is given in the process of making

going to take effort, self-discipline, perseverance and a

lotions are always within hands reach, she refuses to sit at

second hand clothes sellable? Just how safe are second

handful of hour-long sessions with a counselor. But finally,

dirty tables in any restaurant we eat at and even takes to

hand clothes for us to simply pick up off the rail and wear

I’m starting to see the beauty of second hand clothing - it’s

cleaning the restaurant’s cutlery herself. The premise of

when we can’t possibly know how they have been treated or

timelessness and the exciting additions it could bring to

OCD is based around intrusive and deeply rooted thoughts.

cleaned before?

my own wardrobe. That is, at least, after the inevitable

hypochondriac

will

know

well,

Fears, paranoia, mental images of danger or ill-hygiene

successions of 90ºc washing cycles once I get my latest

which are difficult to repress. For me, where second hand

I looked to vintage retail stores ROKIT and Beyond Retro.

clothing is concerned, I imagine a film of germs on the

Pouring over their websites in search of their own

garments. As if the slightest touch of cloth to my skin is

pre-retail cleaning process left me empty handed, but

going to result in me contracting scabies, or the black

their care advice to customers, one would imagine, would

14

hoard of clothing home…

HAND me DOWN PHOTOGRAPHY - RYAN SARADJOLA STYLIST ON SET - ZOE LEUNG

ASSISTANT STYLISTS - MICHELLE YAO, THOMAS CALLALY MODEL - TIFFANY POON ILLUSTRATIONS - OLESJA HANNIKAINEN JEWELLERY - VINTAGE

watch credits

14

We all know Imelda Marcos loved her shoes, but Manilla ladies are always up for a rummage at local ukay ukays. Patricia Dayacap gets kitted out.

WELCOME TO AN UKAY UKAY, WHERE UNIQUE, PRE-LOVED PIECES COST LESS THAN A MCDONALD’S MEAL. It is a sweltering summer’s day in Manila, the capital of the Philippines. In a rundown building north of the city, a group of women briskly walk up the steps and into a dimly lit space filled to the brim with racks of clothing.

Each of them can sense the anticipation in the air, can’t wait to discover the possibilities lurking among rhinestone-studded tops and stained men’s shirts. They fan out and lay claim to their own rails, expertly shuffling through hangers, constantly keeping an eye out for worthwhile purchases. At the end of the day, they may or may not leave with something new to add to their closets. If they’re unsuccessful, they can always come back after a few weeks. Who knows what they could find then?

Welcome to an ukay ukay, where unique, pre-loved pieces cost less than a McDonald’s meal. Found in most parts of the Philippines, it’s ideal for those who have a knack for sniffing out bargain gems faster than you can say ‘vintage Celine’.

A word that finds its roots in the Filipino term halukay (‘to dig or rummage through’), it is the first stop for the majority of the population who can’t afford to shop in your standard air-conditioned mall. After all, items on sale can go as low as Php10 (15p), but most are in the Php50 to 75 (75p to £1.15) range. Widely different costs of living aside, shopping at ukay ukays is a smart move for those looking to save their earnings on more important things.

The thing with shopping in the Philippines is that it’s no different from engaging in retail therapy in any major city in the world. Like Hong Kong and Singapore before it, the Southeast Asian country has, in recent years, seen an influx of foreign brands, both high end, including Givenchy, Carven, Alexander McQueen, and high street, such as H&M, Reiss and Joseph, to please even the most indecisive of shoppers. There are home grown labels too; the best being those independent names, like Vania Romioff, Basic Movement, and Euniform, which are lending a sense of cool to the evolving city scene. As in most countries, there are also colossal department stores peddling just about anything anyone should need—SM, the biggest of them all, can be accurately defined as ‘Primark on steroids’. So far, so typical.

In the past decade or so, however, the ukay ukays have gained popularity, especially amongst the Filipino equivalent of the Hackney hipster, the twenty-something creative with artfully dishevelled hair and a penchant for seeing the world through VSCO filters, as well as the university student who wants, for instance, that exact Saint Laurent look on a Salvation Army budget.

The pleasure that comes from plunking down a J.W. Anderson-esque wrap skirt in front of the blissfully unaware cashier, or from unearthing a boxy blazer that bears a striking resemblance to the one Australian top model Julia Nobis wore on the Alexander Wang runway is a universal feeling anyone can understand. To bargain hunters living on back issues of Vogue and daily visits to Style.com, ukay ukays are places that reward the patient and the persevering.

The catch? They’re not legal. There is a law, Republic Act No. 4653, in the Constitution of the Philippines that prohibits the importation of used clothing and rags ‘to safeguard the health of the people and maintain the dignity of the nation’. There are exceptions—those used for relief operations and by non-profit organisations—but being marked as commodities is certainly not one of them.

Yet the ukay ukays flourish, dotting the landscape with their bold SALE signs and their neon green hangers. In a country where officials are willing to turn a blind eye to less than honourable acts in exchange for a sum, it’s practically expected for these establishments to thrive.

22

Of course, in the bigger scheme of things, the selling of secondhand clothing from countries like South Korea and Canada isn’t the worst way to break the law. While these clothes are smuggled, it can be argued that the good outweighs the bad. Minimum wage workers earn the equivalent of roughly £7 a day, and shopping at ukay ukays means they can stretch their salaries to their maximum potential.

Sure, all items bought from an ukay ukay require washes in boiling water, and sometimes, buttons go missing or hemlines unravel. But they’re mere inconveniences to what is, essentially, a practical and inexpensive way of participating in the global discourse of style.

HOW TO SPEND IT Once practically non-existent in the Singapore market, pre-loved and vintage fashion stores, both online and off, have been sprouting up like mushrooms over the past few years.

This growing number of second-hand retailers in the luxury fashion sector, however, is good news for shoppers - especially eco-friendly ones, says ROHAIZATUL AZHAR.

When it comes to shopping for unique fashion pieces, Angie Chen is not easy to please. A collector of vintage luxury goods, she often finds the selection in Singapore's boutiques lacking. But every so often, she browses the pre-loved and vintage selections at luxury e-tailer The Fifth Collection hoping for a good find.

It was on one of those online shopping occasions that the 25-year-old marketing executive, who travels to New York and London to find one-of-a-kind designer pieces, struck gold.

She says: ‘There was a bejewelled top from Christian Lacroix that was selling for S$250 (£120) on the site. I bought it immediately as it’s the pret-a-porter version of the couture piece that was featured on the 1988 cover of American Vogue. It was Anna Wintour’s first issue as editor and you can’t get that piece anywhere else now.’

Chen is but one of a growing number of Singaporeans buying into the high-end fashion world - not through the boutiques lining Orchard Road, Singapore’s premier shopping belt, but through the secondhand and vintage markets.

These shops, both online and off, often offer better bargains on a wider selection of items, whether it's a classic Chanel tweed blazer, or an ostrich skin Birkin bag from Hermes.

Nejla Matam-Finn, founder and chief executive of The Fifth Collection (www.thefifthcollection.com), says: ‘Our clients, or Collectors as we call them, not only love fashion but understand the value of luxury goods and, of course, a good buy. So, we offer them the real deal without the hefty price tag. The variety of luxury items in our inventory is on par with what you can find in famous international stores like Portland’s Decades

Vintage Company and New York’s What Goes Around Comes Around.’

holiday, Gwee, who is a stay-at-home mum, now shops online.

Founded in 2014, the luxury online marketplace stocks a curated selection of pre-loved and vintage fashion and jewellery pieces from fashion houses such as Chanel, Hermes and Saint Laurent that dates back to the early 1960s. The site also lets customers put up their designer goods for sale online. This helps some shopaholics curb their wasteful spending habits and, according to Matam-Finn, expands the site’s inventory.

She says: ‘Online consignment stores have made it easier for shoppers to get what we want in just a few clicks and at good prices. Plus, we can always re-sell our purchases when we no longer want them.’

‘We want people to know that you don’t have to stick to fast fashion products just because they are inexpensive. Designer goods can be attainable. Plus, they are of better quality,’ she adds.

Agreeing, Dianne Conti, who is the chief operations officer at ChicStash.com, reveals that the site started off with high school and college kids who are ‘on an allowance or on a small budget, but are aspirational and want to own a Chanel bag or a pair of Gucci jeans’.

‘Stores like ours are the only way shoppers can afford it, because they can get a pair of pre-loved designer jeans or bags at 80 to 90 per cent off. So we're helping to get them to that point.’

One such shopper is Lisa Gwee, who bought her first designer bag - a Dior Saddle bag - from a secondhand boutique more than a decade ago. ‘I still have it in my wardrobe and occasionally take it out to parties. I was only 16 then and I remember saving up my pocket money and spending slightly over £400. Now, it's a vintage piece. I mean, Galliano is no longer at Dior.’

Over the last decade, the 29-year-old has amassed quite a collection of pre-loved and vintage fashion pieces. While she used to trawl vintage stores while on

24

The ‘pre-loved community’ is one that is growing steadily in Singapore. The Fifth Collection, for instance, has seen a double digit increase in the percentage of people who shop pre-loved and vintage pieces as well as those who consign with them.

‘I believe you can buy the latest It bag in the market there is nothing wrong with that. But when you're bored of it, that's where we come in,’ Matam-Finn says.

Industry watchers say that secondhand retailers have carved themselves a new niche in the luxury market.

This includes not only collectors seeking elusive pieces and young Singaporeans unwilling or unable to afford boutique prices, but also those who want to cut down on their carbon footprint.

‘Buying secondhand goods, especially vintage pieces, is a way to contribute to sustainable fashion,’ says Karen Tee, fashion lecturer at Singapore’s Lasalle College of the Arts. ‘By extending the shelf life of these goods, you are buying into a better, eco-friendly alternative to rampant consumerism.’

As Chen puts it: ‘The quality of these luxury pieces far outweighs those you find from fast fashion stores such as H&M or Topshop. Plus, when you buy vintage or pre-loved luxury goods, you’re technically lowering your carbon footprint and being socially conscious as these are items that are crafted by artisans.’

old sport

Meet the throwback generation that's flipping the bird at the normcore bandwagon by kitting out in salvaged sportswear.

Photography: Meike Linthorst Art Director: Valentina Egoavil Medina Styling: Valentina Egoavil Medina, Eva Tsipi, Michelle Yao Make Up Artist: Rebecca Rocha Models: Holly Foxton, Jonathan Eap, Thomas Quantock Clothes courtesy of Traid and Beyond Retro

Ready.

Set.Hack.

- MEET THE CLOTHO GIRLS

VIVIEN TANG and CAROLINE WOOD are the creative minds behind Clotho London, a vir tual clothes swap community that allows people to donate unworn or unwanted garments in exchange for others. EVANGELIA TSIPI meets the creative duo to find out more about the growing community and impact of sustainability within fashion.

Q: You’ve recently hosted The Fashion Hackathon, a great event bringing together young designers as well as amateurs to restyle and upcycle in unison the fancy left-overs from Clotho London’s stock. Why don’t you tell us more about what Clotho actually does?

Vivien’s bedroom and set up an online shop platform

we offer fast fashion in the sense that you can buy it

that we managed to launch in October 2014. We teamed

with a single click but then again we are doing so in a

up with funding schemes that loved the idea and we now

sustainable manner and people don’t even realise it. I

have an office space. Now the aim is to get our name out

think that’s how people engage with it.

there to as many people as we possibly can in the next six months.

C: It’s actually a lot of fun. We upload new stuff on the website every Sunday at 9pm and we know that there are

C: Clotho is basically a big online clothes swapping

people who are just waiting with their laptops in hand to

platform. We source clothes that people no longer want

snag the best pieces as soon as they go up. It’s fun,

and we collect them from peoples’ homes or workplace.

Q: W hat ar e Cl ot ho’s p l ans f or t he f ut ur e ?

We give them credit for any items that are of good

C: We want Clotho to run smoothly and we want to do it

quality and they can then use that credit in Clotho’s

in a sustainable way. We believe that any amount of

online store where they can buy anything with it.

clothes going into landfills is a crime. We want to make

V: There’s no way you can tell girls to stop shopping but

sustainability easier by facilitating the process of

you can encourage them to do it more consciously.

affordable and a convenient way to rid your closet of all that unwanted stuff.

taking these clothes from people who no longer want

Q: How was the idea born?

them and also encourage them to participate in the

V: We met at university and last summer after we

exchange.

graduated we went on a celebratory girls’ holiday to Marrakech. One night we were getting ready to go out and I could not decide what to wear so Caroline let me wear one of her dresses that she’d brought along. It was brand new, she’d had it for five years and never worn it and it still had the tag on. I loved it so much that she actually gave it to me. That’s what got us to thinking that there must be so many girls like Caroline who own clothes they never wear and girls like me who are dying

V: We collect so many clothes that are only damaged slightly but we cannot put them on the website. So we thought that gathering them together and see how creative people can turn them into something beautiful by upcycling them would be so much fun. That’s how we

Q: How do you guys stay true to your c o m p a n y ’s e t h i c s ?

C: We make sure we are environmentally friendly in everything we do. We want sustainability to be the core of everything we do, not just the clothes aspect of it all.

came up with the Fashion Hackathon. We would love to

V: We started off by using the tube, we’ve never used

have another line on Clotho with items that have been

cars, and we want to get people distributing everything

upcycled.

on bikes.

to get their hands on them. So we designed Clotho to get these people together and get them swapping.

Q: How did you take it from there?

Q: Let’s talk sustainability. It’s a term that doesn’t appeal ver y much to the youngsters or lovers of fast fashion. How can sustainability be made to appeal to a younger generation.

C: We wanted to have a list of relevant contacts. We

V: What we do here at Clotho is quite cheeky because

took pictures in a makeshift studio which actually was

even if you are not all that interested in sustainability,

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Visit: clotholondon.co.uk Tw i t t e r : @ c l o t h o l o n d o n Instagram: @theclothogirls

T h e C l o t h o G i r l s , V i v i a n Ta n g a n d C a r o l i n e Wo o d

refrain A MUST-HAVE IN EVERY WARDROBE, THE WHITE T-SHIRT IS PROBABLY THE BIGGEST BEST-SELLING PRODUCT IN THE WORLD. EVER. BUT WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN THEY ARE NO LONGER PRISTINE? DINO BONACIC LISTS 10 WAYS TO WORK THOSE RATTY TEES.

Not by scientific findings, but by plain common sense, the white t-shir t is all of the above and much more.

Possibly loose or possibly skin-tight, made out of polyester or perhaps in the finest organic cotton, a white short-sleeved t-shirt is a piece wor th holding on to. It's not defined by age, gender, body type or sexual orientation – everyone can wear it. In this age of overindulging in those “BUY! BUY! BUY!” tags jumping out of every virtual and physical corner, here are 10 reasons why you shouldn't just put it in the bin.

no.1

A HOLE IS NOT A BAD THING

When life gives you lemons, make the nicest lemon pie.

Simply put, when you’ve worn out your t-shirt and it has started looking like a fine Swiss Emmental cheese, do not think of throwing it away. If there ever was a moment in your life you thought of embracing your inner punk, give your old and ratty white tee another chance – Vivienne Westwood would definitely approve.

no.2 TREND-LESS-NESS Forget about everything new and amazing that's going on it's just a white t-shirt. If there's a time and a place to have a no-nonsense attitude in fashion, white T time is definitely it – any cut or textile you've got in your wardrobe will go with that favourite pair of jeans of yours.

There are always seasonal must-haves, but don’t treat your little (or big) white t-shirt as a trend, but as an investment. Just because it’s cheap, it doesn’t mean you need a new one.

no.3 MEMORIES...

This may be the hoarder in me talking, but clothes definitely have a way of re-telling stories you went through while wearing them; and a white t-shirt is a common companion. Instead of casting it off, just remember the last time you had fun while wearing it. Do you still want to change it?

no.4 A CARBON DIET If you weren't aware before, there is a little thing called carbon footprint, which counts how much greenhouse gas emissions all your life decisions have produced. Yes, it's absolutely impossible to accurately calculate it, but consumerism and overproduction are two of the biggest growing factors in that equation. Slow your pace down, and think twice before buying a new t-shirt.

no.5 GOOGLE YOUR FAVOURITE CELEBRITY/BLOGGER/STYLE ICON They all wear it – each in their own (or their stylist's) special way, so you are bound to either get new ideas on how to wear your old torn piece (see: Kristen Stewart) or maybe feel cool about yourself because one of them is wearing the white tee with a leopard coat and a pair of hotpants just like you did last summer (see: Alexa Chung).

no.6 DRINK IT UP

no.7 LET IT DYE

Yes, it's true - producing cotton t-shirts uses lots of water.

More accurately, the production of a single one takes around 2,700 litres. Wouldn't it be better to leave that for all of us to drink, and leave your t-shirt on for a while?

Yes, bleach is not the most environmentally friendly chemical, but it’s still way less wasteful than throwing away and/or buying a new top. When your favourite white tee has gone into a not-so-hot shade or attracts a couple of resilient stains, give it a little colour makeover.

no.8 PARENT TRAP

no.9 INSIDE OUT

Inspiration goes a long way, and if you don't find celebrities to be style icons, try looking at the supermodels within your own household. Look at your parent’s or grandparent’s old photos – they most probably owned a white t-shirt, and wore it in a style you never even thought of.

Maison Martin Margiela has built its aesthetic on the very subversive way of repurposing and wearing common objects in a slightly off-kilter way. Why not start with the basic and just wear your plain t-shirt on the 'wrong' side.

But don't forget to snap the tag off.

no.10 MOP AWAY Finally, if your t-shirt becomes truly unusable in terms of wearing, don't just think it's over because it's still got a whole other life. Convert your t-shirt DIY style into a mop. In-store cotton mops are a true environmental no-no, so repurposing is definitely the way to go. And remember, cotton mops make the best hard-surface cleaners.

38

Rag Rare

&

LADIES

Photography: Tian Chen Art Direction & Styling: Elisabeth Krohn A s s i s t a n t S t y l i s t s : E v a T s i p i , M i c h e l l e Ya o & Z o e L e u n g M a k e u p A r t i s t : S y l w i a Wo j s i a t Hair Stylist: Michael Moon Models: Chelsea Thorpe & Stefanie Lange A l l c l o t h e s s e c o n d h a n d f r o m L M B Te x t i l e R e c y c l i n g

BIRDS OF FASHION

by Elisabeth Krohn

ECCENTRIC GRAND DAMES INSPIRE CREATIVE APPROACHES TO CONSCIOUS CONSUMPTION. Hardly a day goes by when we are not in some way reminded of the throwaway paradigm of contemporary consumer society. To remedy our eco-guilt, we seek out sustainable alternatives, and shop and discard with heightened awareness. Our lifestyles require flexible identities or strive for a tactile timelessness that is so very now. As twenty-something fashion girls are aging gracefully in Céline, we choose to take sustainable inspirations from the been-there-done-that eccentrics remaining fashionably alive by shunning appropriateness, shopping-bans and muted hues.

From the 2014´s film incarnation of the streetstyle blog Advanced Style to the upcoming documentary, Iris, featuring the uncensored Iris Apfel, the signature style of mature originals is having a high-fashion moment. From the sharply clad Accidental Icon to Channel 4´s Fabulous Fashionistas, idiosyncratic style by the over-60s seems white-hot. By urging us to wear what we have and to love what we buy, these aging fashion fiends show us that growing old is not necessarily about toning it down. Inspired by their punk approach to personal styling and sartorial expression of identity, we find ourselves encouraged to repurpose our favourite pieces and create a lively wardrobe that can last a lifetime.

A New Yorker born and bred, the brilliantly bespectacled Iris Apfel was only famed as a fashion icon in the past decade. Interior designer to nine presidents and a sought-after style and fashion lecturer, her eccentric yet curated aesthetic, including stacks and stacks of exotic bangles and lashings of bold costume jewellery and beaded necklaces, was showcased at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2005. Gracing the November 2012 cover of Dazed and Confused, Apfel, at the tender age of 93, now stars in her own Albert Maysles documentary Iris. Here she shares essential shopping-tips while swapping, haggling and vintage-hunting and cheeky one-liners of wisdom on multiple pop-topics.

Similarly, the blog Advanced Style, set up by Ari Seth Cohen, documents stylish silver foxes on the streets of New York City and beyond. Favouring quirky and personal, Cohen photographs and interviews vital spirits with eclectic personal style. Last year the blog became the basis of a documentary. Advanced Style the film portrays seven colourful New York women aged 65 to 95 that by their mere presence challenge Western culture´s obsession with youth and the endless pursuit of the new.

Taking fashion inspiration from mature eccentrics is not a novel idea. America´s favourite high-society dropouts, Edith and Edie Bouvier Beale of Grey Gardens, East Hampton, have had a cult following ever since the 1975 documentary by the very same Albert Mayles, featuring the mother-daughter team at their most charming, peculiar and co-dependent. Little Edie, the aspiring performer famed for her artfully draped headscarves and radical layering, has become iconic – her unparalleled style a returning inspiration for designers and stylists alike. ‘My costumes?” she said, “That’s a protest against having worked as a model for the Establishment, believe it or not. A lot of models feel that way’.

The women of Advanced Style, Iris Apfel and Little Edie of Grey Gardens, express similar approaches to the art of dressing. Emphasising the importance of storytelling they ‘build outfits,’ as self-confessed dress artist Tziporah Salamon puts it, maybe starting with one particularly inspiring item. Then, through creative sourcing and styling a look will emerge, after weeks, months or even years of mulling it over to get it just right. Many of the women express a disinterest in fashion brands and trends in general, suggesting that nearly everything can be thrifted and that waiting for that perfect find at a vintage market is far more satisfying than just entering a department store and bagging all the latest trends.

The maxim is undoubtedly ‘more is more’, mixing in vintage and ethnic jewellery or distinct pieces of headgear to achieve the desired effect. Layering is essential – here an acute awareness of proportions comes into play and a boldness that must come with age.

Collecting mainly pre-loved pieces, Iris Apfel, customizes, wears, donates or resells them, creating fascinating styling that exists both within and outside contemporary fashion, as well as a small vintage fashion economy. ‘I'm a hopeless romantic. I buy things because I fall in love with them. I never buy anything just because it's valuable,’ she says, adding value simply by selecting and re-arranging apparently disparate and inexpensive garments and accessories.

In our fast-fashion world the average age of a garment is two years and three months according to the sustainability awareness project Love Your Clothes. By extending this just by a few months, we can reduce the carbon footprint dramatically. Through finding aesthetic value in apparently outmoded items and soulfully curating the odd and mismatched, one can extend the lifetime of clothes even further. We have never been more inspired to add value to the worn-in while growing into our own distinctive style – regardless of age.

Little Edie & BIg Edie shot by Albert Mayles, 1975

CLOTHMETHIC SURGERY STRAPPED FOR CASH BUT FULL OF CREATIVITY? WHETHER YOU’RE A BEGINNER OR PRO UPCYCLER, BREATHE NEW LIFE INTO YOUR OLD JEANS WITH THE HELP OF THESE EASY-TO-FOLLOW TRICKS TOOLS: Bleach, Sandpaper Block, Cardboard, Razor, Very Sharp Scissors Or Box Cutter BLEACH: If this is your first time experimenting with restyling your own garments, we suggest you look for a nice piece in the denim section first, as jeans are the easiest to customize. If you’re unhappy with the wash of the denim, it can be lightened by up to 3 shades simply by adding a 3/4 cup of bleach to your regular detergent on a warm/hot washing cycle. However, it’s best to check the care label of your jeans; if it says they are to be washed cold, make sure to follow these instructions. Unless of course, if you want to reduce the size of your jeans to Barbie doll proportions and bleach them in one go? Always remember to wash the jeans on their own while doing this and don’t try to apply the process to very dark dyed denim as it’s likely to turn out patchy.

DISTRESS: After bleaching, you can proceed to distress the fabric in order to prepare it for the holes.

1) Wear the jeans and while standing, place safety pins to mark the position of your knees on the jeans.

2) Take the jeans off and rub the area around the safety pin with a sandpaper block until the fabric starts to fray, then make a horizontal cut of 2-3cm where the safety pin is and tear the hole carefully open. How big you make it is up to you.

3) You can give it a final touch by fraying the fabric around the slash with a razor blade et voilà, your unique jeans are ready.

- KSENIA RYBINA

DITCH WEAR THEM WELL, THE SMELL.

FOUR WATERLESS LAUNDRY HACKS TO KEEP YOUR CLOTHES FRESH AND CLEAN WHILE ALSO BEING KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT. SAVE WATER AND STAY FRESH!

Doing laundry is rarely a subject that any self-respecting person would consider optional, particularly when a piece of clothing is stained. But since doing laundry too frequently has become a subject of controversy it’s time to test out other methods of cleaning your dirty clothing in a way that promotes the longevity of garments.

No. 1

No. 2 THE FREEZER METHOD

THE VINEGAR METHOD

Cleaning denim in a washing machine at warm temperatures results in damage to the fabric, meaning that jeans lose their shape and start to sag. But how about freezing? Believe it or not, putting jeans in the freezer over night will leave them crisp and clean as the low temperature eradicates germs and bacteria.

The low pH level of vinegar is effective in removing odours in clothing. Dilute the vinegar by adding an equal ratio of water (50/50) into a spray bottle, turn your dirty garment inside out and test the vinegar solution. If it doesn’t change the colour of the fabric on this inside then it’s safe to use.

Squirt the solution evenly over the fabric. Don’t worry if there is an initial stench of vinegar as the scent will dissipate as it dries. Hang the clothing outdoors to dry and air off naturally.

No. 4

No. 3 THE HAIRSPRAY METHOD

THE VODKA METHOD

It’s a well known phenomenon that hairspray can be used to remove specific types of stains; ink and even lipstick. To remove the stain, spray the garment from a distance of 20cm, directing the nozzle at the affected area. Let it sit for few minutes, then rinse by hand and hang out to dry.

The answer to all of life’s problems is booze. No, seriously.

If you ever wondered what the active ingredient is in hairspray that removes stains, it’s alcohol. Fill a spray bottle with vodka and spritz onto clothing. This will remove any unpleasant odours. Whilst you’re at it, why not prepare yourself a cocktail and make doing laundry a little more fun?

Employing one or more of these cleaning methods will help reduce unnecessary water usage in the UK. Or, just enjoy reveling in your own filth.

- TIFFANY POON

50

Oi,

lAUNDRY phobes

!

ARE CLOTHES COVERING YOUR ENTIRE BEDROOM FLOOR BUT YOU’RE DREADING THE UPCOMING LAUNDRY DAY? FEAR NO MORE.

MICHELLE YAO SHARES A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO FINALLY DOING YOUR LAUNDRY WHILE EXTENDING YOUR WARDROBE’S LIFESPAN.

Building and maintaining a wardrobe takes time and effort, and clothing is a major investment for all of us. I am a very careful shopper, and I try to buy well-made clothing that is stylish but classic - clothing that will be wearable for a long time. I think I have developed and practiced methods that will help keep my wardrobe beautiful without massive cleaning bills. ( Dry cleaning and professional laundry bills can certainly impair one’s clothing budget, and over-cleaning is not good for fabrics or for the longevity of your clothing! ) People who have full-time jobs often need well-pressed, properly fitting clothing that looks appropriate for the occasion. Most of us do not have a full-time stylist or wardrobe mistress, so it’s extremely important to learn about home care for our clothing. Careful washing for cottons, linens, and even wool and cashmere sweaters is essential. Drying clothes on a rack, towel, or clothesline instead of throwing everything in the dryer will keep fabrics from aging prematurely. Spot-cleaning small stains or smudges on clothes will lessen trips to the dry cleaner. And steaming suits, dresses, and slacks, after wearing, will keep them ready for a trip, a meeting, or a dinner date. What’s more, if your clothes are maintained in a careful way, you can dress, pack, or change much more quickly, efficiently, and cheaply. I am most pleased that I have kept fine clothes looking almost unworn for years. And it is such a good feeling when I put on something from seven or 10 years ago and get compliments like, ‘When did you get that fabulous jacket?’ I love being able to say, ‘Oh, years ago!’

1. steaming

Establish a great clothes-keeping routine and see how a little extra care can go a long way toward helping your wardrobe stay in excellent condition.

Use a steamer to refresh your clothes and release wrinkles.

The steam plumps up fibres rather than flattening them, so it’s gentler than ironing. (To remove tough wrinkles or get a crisp crease, you still need to iron.) It’s also faster, can be used on virtually any fabric, and will limit trips to the dry cleaner, which is particularly hard on clothes. Here’s what I do with garments - especially structured ones, like this blazer - at the end of the day: 1. REMOVE LINT Use an adhesive roller to pick up any lint or pet hair.

2. SPOT-CLEAN Dab with a barely damp cloth to remove any visible dirt.

3. STEAM Run a steamer along the garment in an up-and-down motion

2. sorting & prepping

Don’t skip this step - it’s important to wash like things together to prevent damage and get clothes their cleanest.

Sorting properly means you can use the best cycle for each particular garment.

3. Beyond Lights & Darks Most people sort into these two categories, which is certainly good and necessary. But further sorting is even better.

Separate heavy fabrics, like denim (which can be very abrasive), from more delicate ones, and very dirty clothes from lightly soiled pieces. Wash towels and sheets on their own.

4. Before You Wash

Zip zippers, tie drawstrings, and empty pockets. Treat any stains. If clothes need mending, do it before washing them. If you’re not hand-washing delicates, put them in a mesh bag.

And check new items for colourfastness: Dampen a discreet spot, then blot it with a white cloth to see if dye bleeds. If it does, wash the item on its own until the colour stops running (include an old white sock in the wash to check).

5. Washing

Use the gentlest cycle and coolest temperature that will get your clothes clean. (A short cycle may be fine for most items, though gardening gear or children’s play clothes, for example, may require a prewash or ‘heavy-duty’ cycle.)

Don’t overload the washing machine or add more detergent

than the packaging calls for in an effort to get clothes cleaner - it may not rinse out thoroughly. I like Persil detergent, and I wash my white towels and linens in hot water, but everything else is done in warm or cold. Always check stains when clothes come out of the washer; if they’re not gone, treat them and wash again.

6. drying

It is best to air-dry almost everything - it’s easier on clothes and saves energy too. It is especially important for delicate items and those that stretch, such as yoga and gym clothes, to help them keep their shape. If you do tumble-dry your clothes, do not overload the dryer or over-dry the fabrics. Take the clothes out when they are just barely damp, and fold or hang them right away to prevent wrinkles.

7. Line-Drying Tip

Hanging white clothes outside in the sun can help keep them bright. However, dark items are best hung up to dry indoors, to keep the colours from fading. .

150G OF PESTICIDES AND OTHER AGRICULTURAL CHEMICALS ARE USED TO PRODUCE THE COTTON FOR JUST ONE SINGLE T-SHIRT.

AIR-DRYING YOUR CLOTHES JUST SIX MONTHS A YEAR SAVES 700 POUNDS OF CO2.

DID YOU KNOW ?

OVER 90 MILLION ITEMS OF CLOTHING END UP IN LANDFILL SITES GLOBALLY EACH YEAR.

IN CHINA SOME RIVERS RUN IN THE COLOUR OF THE SEASON, AS UNTREATED TOXIC DYES WASH OFF FROM MILLS. A SINGLE MILL CAN USE UP TO 200 TONS OF WATER FOR EACH TON OF DYED FABRIC.

THIS MAGAZINE WAS FUNDED BY ‘LOVE YOUR CLOTHES’,

Find out more on: Web: loveyourclothes.org.uk Facebook: Love Your Clothes Instagram: loveyourclothes_uk Twitter: @loveyourclothes

COVER: Photography: Meike Linthorst / Model: Holly Foxton, FM London Agency

BACK COVER: Creative direction: Thomas Quantock / Photography : Ryan Saradjola