Nylon 2014 08

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S I L V E R J E A N S . C O M A V A I L A B L E A T M A C Y ’ S A N D S I L V E R J E A N S C O .™ L O F T S LOS ANGELES CHICAGO HOUSTON DALLAS MINNEAPOLIS





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AUG

024 editor’s letter 026 par avion 028 behind the scenes 030 contributors

052 don’t ever change fashion market director rachael wang endeavors to distress a pair of raw jeans by wearing them for 30 days straight.

fashionista

054 jeans genie

034 the denim awards

ashley baker finds her spirit denim with the help of 3x1.

we crown the coolest jean offerings across all categories.

046 swedish thing frame denim finds its niche by celebrating the women who wear it.

048 custom-made score some patchwork secrets from fashion assistant and diy enthusiast marissa smith.

049 flares: a love story market and accessories editor tamar levine extols the virtues of her favorite style of jeans.

050 noble pursuit as the denim design director of gap 1969, larissa noble reinvigorates an american classic.

058 factory girl: dani stahl visits venice for a firsthand view of diesel.

092 snap happy we pay homage to beauty icon and covergirl spokeswoman katy perry.

093 the look: giles fall ‘14

094 get this:

062 directory:

items with electric feel

denim beyond just jeans

096 face value:

070 haute stuff:

powder up

denim-esque add-ons

076 mass appeals: the season’s top three takes on our standby fabric

beauty queen 080 brave new world fall’s most badass makeup trends

088 beauty news

098 counter culture on the cover nina dobrev photographed by silja magg. styled by rachael wang. hair: ryan trygstad at starworks using wella professionals. makeup: jake bailey at the wall group using lancôme. manicurist: jackie saulsbery at kramer + kramer. photo assistants: darren hall and benny lee. digital tech: nick rapaz. retouching: bespoke, new york. shot at hudson studios, new york. shirt by calvin klein underwear, jumpsuit by guess, shoes by pony, pendant necklace by miansai, necklace with ring by david yurman, bracelet and rings by workhorse jewelry. illustrations by esther kim.

090 magic wands eye-opening new mascaras

volume 15 issue 7 NYLON (ISSN 1524-1750) IS pubLIShed mONthLY, except cOmbINed JuNe/JuLY aNd december/JaNuarY ISSueS, bY NYLON medIa, INc., 110 GreeNe Street, New YOrk, NY 10012. perIOdIcaL pOStaGe paId at New YOrk, NY aNd addItIONaL maILING OffIceS. pOStmaSter: SeNd addreSS chaNGeS tO NYLON, NYLON/addreSS chaNGe, p.O. bOx 5796, harLaN, Ia 51593-1296.


100% ALL NATURAL

unretouched & unfiltered

Š BONGO 2014

this is the RE AL NES VA SA HUD GE NS

F / bongo @bongojeans sears.com/bongo


AUG

fashion & features 100 fresh blood as the vampire diaries comes to a close, the supernaturally cool nina dobrev prepares for the next big thing. by ashley baker. photographed by silja magg. styled by rachael wang

108 after school special

118 even cowgirls get the blues

seasonal styles that make the grade. photographed by sam nixon. styled by jessica bobince

take your look to the wild, wild west. photographed by christopher ferguson. styled by elle werlin

128 golden state

146 surf’s up

denim done the california way. photographed by hilary walsh. styled by christine baker

florida-based duo beach day presents your good-mood soundtrack. by melody lau. photographed by jess baumung

radar 136 forever your girl jenny lewis explores life, death, and the cosmos on her third solo record. by melissa giannini. photographed by shane mccauley

147 SEA CHANGE the multitalented kiesza finds herself through her music. by celia shatzman. photographed by sunny shokrae

148 culture club

140 aussie rules

the month’s best art, books, movies, and more

actress adelaide clemens likes to keep busy. by denise martin. photographed by guy lowndes

157 shopping list

142 gone girl andie macdowell-spawn margaret qualley proves her own acting prowess on hbo’s post-rapture drama the leftovers. by maura kutner walters. photographed by david shama

144 paradise found the wait is over: la roux is back with a brand new album. by mallory rice. photographed by samantha casolari

160 blue crush an ultra-luxe bag brimming with azure necessities. packed by dani stahl


Š BONGO 2014

100% ALL NATURAL

unretouched & unfiltered

this is the RE AL

VA NESSA HUD GE NS

F / bongo @bongojeans sears.com/bongo


executive chairman marc luzzatto executive vice president, chief revenue officer, publisher dana fields executive vice president, digital daniel saynt

editor-in-chief michelle lee design director evan campisi features

fashion

art

deputy editor david walters features director melissa giannini senior editor mallory rice beauty director katie dickens associate editor lisa mischianti beauty editor jade taylor contributing copy editor matt schlecht contributing editor alexis clark contributing editor diane vadino

fashion director joseph errico style director dani stahl market director rachael wang senior men’s market editor mitsu tsuchiya market and accessories editor tamar levine fashion assistant marissa smith

photo director beth garrabrant senior designer haley stark designer kelly shami design director, nylon guys chris segedy contributing photo editor xenia rollinson

digital

digital editorial director liza darwin digital design director liz riccardi newsletter manager and city editor jackie yaeger digital editorial assistant yasmeen gharnit men’s managing web editor christian lavery executive tv producer blair waters associate tv producer daniel huskey influencer at large beca alexander digital executive assistant cody jones contributing writers

ashley baker, durga chew-bose, hazel cills, rachel deahl, yasmeen gharnit, melody lau, denise martin, celia shatzman, maura kutner walters contributing artists

will anderson, sergiy barchuk, jess baumung, samantha casolari, ewelina dymek, christopher ferguson, david brandon geeting, eric helgas, akiko higuchi, jens ingvarsson, hye khim, kate lacey, ally lindsay, guy lowndes, silja magg, shane mccauley, jamie nelson, sam nixon, annie powers, esra røise, kimi selfridge, nick sethi, david shama, sunny shokrae, meghann stephenson, hattie stewart, natalia swarz, felisha tolentino, hilary walsh, eric t. white, isa wipfli interns

yasmin abboushi, michelle abramowitz, haylee barsky, hawa bello, michaela biasucci, blair cannon, lohla corby, eliza dillard, banu ibrahim, mayako ikeda, madeleine ivey, sophia jennings, william johnston, isabel jones, michelle li, jamie lichay, vivian loh, ally lucchesi, miranda mcevoy, kim mendoza, karissa montania, tyler okuns, fumi omori, emma orlow, sophie perkins, catherine rardin, victoria robichaud, yoey sacks, peter samuels, tatiana suridis, jennifer suzukawa-tseng, nicole taddonio, victoria tarantino, bianca valle, estelle waldeck, taylor waresh, megan whiteside advertising

eastern ad manager julie humeas fashion account director aaron kransdorf beauty account manager lynsey hossman director of partnerships and events kristin welton senior marketing manager jenny peck senior marketing manager lauren cohen marketing coordinator christie chu marketing designer kristen berndt e-commerce manager katherine martinez advertising business director connor stanley office manager amanda miller newsstand consultants irwin billman, ralph perricelli circulation specialists greg wolfe national and foreign distribution curtis circulation subscriptions One year for $19.97 in the U.S. and possessions; $29.97 for Canada and $65.00 for all other destinations. Payment in U.S. funds must accompany Canadian and international orders. Address subscription orders and inquiries to P.O. Box 5796, Harlan, IA 51593-3296, or call 866.639.8133 for faster service. 11 0 g re e n e s t re e t , s u i t e 6 07, n e w y o r k , n y 1 0 0 1 2 / 2 1 2 . 2 2 6 . 6 4 5 4 / n y l o n m a g . c o m ABC MeMBer: 408176

printed in tHe USA.


Š BBONG ON O 2014 ONG 2014 14

100% ALL NATURAL

unretouched & unfiltered

this is the RE AL

VA NESSA HUD GE NS

F / bongo @bongojeans kmart.com/bongo


—LET TER FROM THE EDITOR

COME AS YOU ARE Reinvention. We talk about it all the time in music…and in fashion. And it’s certainly a theme that’s floated around my skull a lot as I wrap up my first issue as editor of NYLON. I started writing for the magazine years ago, and I’ve always had a deep love for its cool, fearless approach to style and culture. Over the past 15 years, it’s managed to reinvent itself while still staying true to its DNA. So it’s fitting that our cover star this month is Vampire Diaries actress Nina Dobrev, who’s going through a rebirth of her own as she plots her life after TV super-fame, beginning with this month’s comedy Let’s Be Cops. Meanwhile, iconic

Rilo Kiley It Girl Jenny Lewis tells us how she’s finding herself again after one hell of a roller-coaster decade. At the core of every evolution are the creative people who help make it all happen. That’s why I love seeing more of them on the pages of our Denim Issue, like our market director Rachael Wang, who shows us how to perfectly break in jeans, and our fashion assistant Marissa Smith, who showcases some seriously impressive DIY skills. As the summer starts to wind down, exciting things are brewing at the NYLON ofices (don’t even get me started on our phenomenal digital plans). And the best part: We’re just getting warmed up.



SOGI’S

Thank you so, so, so, so much for putting Haim on the June/July cover! I love them and think girls with that much talent should get this much recognition!

BY

dear nylon,

HONEY

@JOOMIPARK

BAKESHOP,

BROOKLYN,

NY

@LILRED61636

#mynylon tag your nylon collection on instagram and your pic could appear right here.

COOKIE

Haim is on the cover of @NylonMag. Give me please! SAMANTHA @SAMPAMIKE

KATE WORDEN VIA EMAIL

Ahhh @NylonMag featured Catfish and the Bottlemen in the Music Issue! I screamed!

All the indie-pop queenz are in @NylonMag this month: @HAIMtheband @elliegoulding @lilyallen @RitaOra <3

RIA ESCOBER @RIABEAAAR

A-TRAN @AMANDATRANROCKS

[Haim is] so beautiful! <3 <3 <3 JOLENE MCPHAIL VIA FACEBOOK

Thanks for all the good music recommendations, @NylonMag! AMMELLIA FU @AMMELLIAFU

dear nylon,

@NylonMag is my favorite magazine in the universe.

Here I am at my best friend’s house gushing over the contents of NYLON—milk and cookies are our companions. Cheers!

MATILDEMK @TILDEMK

STOP my heart can’t take this much love for [the June/July Haim] cover!

ALI GUARDACASA MANILA, PHILIPPINES

ZACK PETERSON VIA FACEBOOK

@TINASHENOW

Fave girls on the cover of my go-to mag! Ya make a good team @NylonMag @HAIMtheband. CLAIRE HAJEK @CEHAJEK

hit us up! nylonmag.com instagram @nylonmag

@ALIENBELLE

twitter @nylonmag

SARA

HANKEN,

BURNSVILLE,

MN

facebook.com/ nylonmagazine letters@nylonmag.com nylon letters 110 greene street suite 607 new york, ny 10012


© 2014

Kate upton #EXPRESSJEANS


JEAN QUEEN Nina Dobrev sucks! Well, her Vampire Diaries blood-drinking alter ego, Elena, does, anyway. In real life, Dobrev is as sweet as the outfit she wore to our cover shoot—a daisy print pinafore, ladylike flats, and a wide-brim felt hat. Seeing as the actress is clearly capable of putting together an outfit, Dobrev made styling her NYLON shoot with market director Rachael Wang a team efort. “She loved all the clothes,” says Wang. “She went crazy for all the vintage-y denim, but she especially gravitated to the shredded jean shorts.” The laid-back ensembles inspired

makeup artist Jake Bailey to go the natural route with a touch of bronzy blush to warm up her skin and nude lipgloss, finished with heavy coats of mascara to give Dobrev a rock ’n’ roll edge. Adding to her organic look, hairstylist Ryan Trygstad gave Dobrev’s already thick, wavy hair extra oomph with volumizing mousse, a few turns with a curling iron, and a generous spritz of beach spray.

maybe lline new y ork face studi o maste r gla ze in wa rm nude, $10

rise ’n göt2b ce radian shine d whippe bounce 0 .5 $6 , mousse

maybelline new york color elixir in nude illusion, $9

beach göt2b alt in’ s p p i r t aving ion w infus $6.50 , y a spr

w line ne maybel lum’ york vo ed s pump expres lossal up! co $8 a, mascar maybelline new york baby skin instant pore eraser primer, $7

beauty note: “To get the sun-kissed look, I blended creamy blush onto her cheeks, along her hairline, and on the bridge of her nose,” says Bailey.



contributors maura kutner walters hazel cills writer, nyc author of the webcentric column “cyber space” in culture club (page 148).

“it was truly an honor to write about britney and justin’s groundbreaking matching denim tuxedos—and they say i’m not a historian!” hometown: moorestown, nj twitter handle: @hazelcills latest discovery: the straight white boys texting tumblr. it is perfect. travel plans: i’m living in london this fall. after that i might pull a carmen sandiego. playing on repeat: white lung’s deep fantasy online fixation: @wolfpupy mode of transport: broomstick secret skill: i can sew, bookbind, and fake-laugh beautifully. sartorial signature: my nameplate necklace

030

rachael wang nylon market director, brooklyn styled nina dobrev for “fresh blood” (page 100).

“i’m obsessed with denim, so much so that i wore a pair of raw selvedge jeans for 30 days straight and lived to tell the story (page 52). even more awesome was getting to style super-babe nina dobrev for my first-ever nylon cover. let me know what you think!” hometown: manhattan beach, ca instagram handle: @yorachaelwang latest discovery: raw veganism travel plans: bermuda for the city of hamilton fashion festival playing on repeat: mac demarco’s salad days. i found out about his band after watching a trippy documentary called pepperoni playboy. online fixation: seamless.com, which is quickly becoming a bad habit compulsively reading: my friend sophia amoruso’s best seller girl boss and the flamethrowers by rachel kushner mode of transport: meditation secret skill: seeing the 3-d image in a magic eye poster in under two seconds sartorial signature: monochromatic dressing and hats, together or separately

writer, brooklyn interviewed the founders of frame denim for “swedish thing” (page 46), larissa noble for “noble pursuit” (page 50), and margaret qualley for “gone girl” (page 142).

“erik and jens of frame denim are proof that you can work with someone you love without killing him. larissa is so grounded and selfaware—traits that can be fleeting in fashion. and watching first-time actress margaret qualley perform, you’d think she’s been doing it all her life.” hometown: port washington, ny twitter handle: @maura_walters latest discovery: kitestring, an app that alerts your friends if you go missing. i watch a lot of law & order: svu…. travel plans: a week in shanghai. i can’t wait to see the yuyuan garden. playing on repeat: the national’s trouble will find me online fixation: bloglovin’, which organizes the zillions of blogs i subscribe to into categories compulsively reading: save the date by jen doll mode of transport: the a train secret skill: singing! i was in a cappella groups throughout high school and college. sartorial signature: black-and-white everything—especially shirtdresses and jeans— and leopard-print heels

hilary walsh photographer, l.a. shot the californiaset fashion feature “golden state” (page 128).

“shooting this fashion story was a very mellow experience.” hometown: philadelphia latest discovery: aesop hand cream and amazon prime fresh travel plans: none for now—i have two young kids! playing on repeat: future islands compulsively reading: when i retire, i’ll take up reading again. mode of transport: soccer mom car secret skill: tae kwon do. also, plant whispering. sartorial signature: jeans


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the

denim here at nylon , we spend months sussing out the coolest jean-centric fashion for our annual denim issue. this year, we found it high time to celebrate the most awesome of the awesome. without further ado‌

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aMErICaN EaGLE OUTFITTErS

ae black slashed jegging 50

“Of all the jeans in my closet, the ones I constantly fall back on are my American Eagles. They’re comfortable, the ft and washes are great, and you can’t beat the price.” Rachael Wang, market director

THE UNSUNG HErO


NG

empire jean 195

ause pre-distressed jeans, bec “I’m usually frmly against done and fake. over s look ing sker whi inevitably the e & Crafted has succeeded But somehow Levi’s Mad tdenim jeans with such ligh dark in creating a pair of age— vint be ld cou they ng handed and realistic fadi .” RW which is totally my jam. Sold

BEST SHREDDED LOV ERS + fRI END S

Jeremy jean 188

“When it comes to torn-up denim, my philosop hy is “go big or go home.” Su re, there’s something to be sai d for a simple, subtle rip, but I’d rather rock these sublimely slashed jeans from Lovers + Friends. Their am ple shredding makes them the stuf of destroyed -denim dreams.” Lisa Misch ianti, associate editor

BEST R AW D E N I M US NA KE D & fA MO

retch skinny raw st 155 selvedge jean

e nim out ther “Most raw de women, d an , en m r is cut fo are expected unfortunately, it. Naked & ith w to just go ded a bit of ad s Famous ha peccable im stretch to its compromising cuts without ding abilities the natural fa lvedge jeans se e ak m at th If you want so covetable. ur own jeans, yo in k ea to br way to go.” ly on e th this is RW

clockwise from top left: jacket by sally lapointe, shirt by of-white, jeans by lovers + friends; jeans by levi’s made & crafted, shoes by see by chloé; jeans by naked & famous, shoes by alexander wang. previous page: jacket by ellery, shirt by kim haller, jeans by american eagle outftters, shoes by viktor & rolf.

MOST REA

LISTIC D

ISTRESSI

LEVI ’S MADE & CRAf TED


Style: RB2140


MOST SLIMMING SKINNY J BR AN D

maria jean

230

PAIG E

shredded jacket 269

“I’m a huge denim jacket fan—patches, plain, etc.— g and I’ve never seen anythin quite like this ripped one from Paige Denim. It’s perfectly distressed in the best places to make the jacket still look normal, but with a cool edge.” Marissa Smith, fashion assistant

GOLDSIGN

mr. right jean in charlie 278

“It’s as if my beau wore the hell out of these to create ripped and roomy perfection.” Beth Garrabrant, photo director

clockwise from top left: jeans by j brand, shoes by christopher kane; jeans by goldsign, shoes by marni; jacket by paige denim, dress by dkny, necklace by pluma.

BE ST JE AN JA CK ET

MO ST FLATTE RIN G BOY FRI END

“I will foreve r love skinny jeans and J Br and. I must have countle ss pairs at this point. Th ey look good with both he els and fats. Oh, and snea kers, too! An d boots...everyt hing, really! I’m a real jean s girl and these are a st aple!” Dani St ahl, style di rector


Style: RB2140QM


Classic trench in GAP

“Give your tired den im jacket a break and take this trench for a spi n instead. Who says it has to be raining to roc k it?” Liza Darwin, dig ital editorial director denim 128

CO OL ES T CU TO FF S

HANGOVER SHORTS 88 UNIF

“These are the answer to the too-tight denim short epidemic. The ft is comfortable yet fattering, the distressing is perfection, and there is no denim camel toe in sight .” Tamar Levine, market and accessories editor

“I’m a Texas tux kind of girl so I’m always on the hunt for the perfect denim shirt to wear with my jeans. 7 for All Mankind’s chambray top defn itely wins for easy ft and fattering drape—plus it’s so soft it can double as a nightshirt in a pinch.” RW

chambray shirt 178

7 FOR ALL MANkI ND

MO ST CO MF Y DE NI M SH IR T

clockwise from top left: shirt by 7 for all mankind, skirt by fausto puglisi; jacket by gap, overalls by adam selman, necklace by eddie borgo; shirt and necklace by tanya taylor, shorts by unif.

BEST DENIM OUTERWEAR


Style: RB4171


VO LC OM

LEOPARD JEAN

65

F AVO R I T E P R I N T

iddle “I spent my m wearing an school years g amount of embarrassin is included th s, ye — on ne dark leoparde-th -in ow gl es—so print ensembl ve me a gi s an je e thes tysomething en tw , le sensib back. Plus, w ro th te ria approp d fabric and the heathere ve the print a gi tailored ft look.” Haley ed sophisticat signer de St ark, senior


B

TE JE I H W T ES

ANS

opposite page: shirt by baja east, jeans by volcom, shoes by pierre hardy. this page: shirt by baja east, jeans by j.crew, collar by tanya taylor, shoes by paul andrew for tanya taylor.

J. CR EW

POINT SUR JAPANESE SLIM STACKER SELVEDGE JEAN 23 8 “N

ormally, I’m not the of girl wh o wears w type h anything , let alone ite wh jeans. Bu t the mom ite ent I put on these soft rung -spun cotton je ans from J.Crew’s denim lin e Point S ur, I was total con a vert . The denim is light enou gh that yo u won’t shvitz all day and th e bright white colo r is crisp and refreshin g.” TL


FRAME DENIM

BEST NEW SHAP E

LA GARcON GIRLFRIEND 209

MO ST BA DA SS DE NI M VE ST D-ID

denim vest 198

“Of all the garments don e up in denim you can buy , the denim vest is easily the most badass. So choosing one among them to be the badassest in class is a pret ty tall order. I’m picking D-ID ’s oversize biker style because of its perfectly tumbled medium -wash, helterskelter zippers, and super-s oft feel.” Mallory Rice, sen ior editor

F AVO R I T E ER DENIM SNEAK VA NS

WASHED STAR

SK8-HI 65

s uniform alway “My summer last — ns Va of ir includes a pa ed between year I alternat ue of red and bl irs pa om st cu summer, I’ve is Th . ps -to low t the Washed been all abou ere yle, which w st Hi 8St ar Sk e 4th of th on s VP M clearly all ly do the trick July, but real R M .” ng season lo

“I’ve tried and failed at mastering the boyfriend jean, but it turns out that all I needed was a more ftted leg. Voilà: the girlfriend, concocted by the genius dudes at Frame to exude the same boyish attitude but with a more shapely silhouette.” Ashley Baker, contributing writer


BEST BLEACH JOB DI ES EL

skinzee 188

0s, in the late ’8 “As a tween ted from ta ro s on ic my style s lad mall punk fuorescent-c aders. rle ee ch ed to rosy-cheek band of soBut it was a r ts—in all thei ou rn bu d lle ca ngs glory, ba dre he at fe nst leaning agai smoking and inues to sway nt co at th — cars sa . Diesel ofer me sartorially date on the up se -ri id m dreamy tchy inny and stre look that ’s sk beyond ly ar ne ed and bleach tt arrah Fawce recognition (F a iss eI M l). hair optiona ures director Giannini, feat

opposite page, clockwise from top left: vest by d-id, dress by jennifer chun, necklace by maniamania, rings by eddie borgo; shirt by katie ermilio, jeans by frame, shoes by sarah fint; jeans by moschino, shoes by vans. this page: jacket by of-white c/o virgil abloh, jeans by diesel, shoes by sarah fint, earrings by eddie borgo. prop stylist: amy taylor. hair: travis speck at sally hershberger. makeup: daniella shachter at workgroup. manicurist: miss pop. models: lydia at wilhelmina and marina at trump.


SWEDISH THING

frame denim founders eriK TorsTensson and Jens Grede seT ouT To maKe THe PerfeCT Pair of BLue Jeans. THeir fasHionaBLe friends TooK Care of THe resT. By maura KuTner WaLTers

Erik Torstensson and Jens Grede, the 35-year-old founders of trailblazing fashion marketing frm Saturday Group, are proof positive that opposites attract. Should you fnd yourself in their company on a steamy summer afternoon, Torstensson will be drinking a glass of white wine (anything but Chardonnay), while Grede sips club soda. Torstensson might interrupt his friend to take a phone call, and Grede will scold him for “fucking up his fow.” They hated each other when they frst met in 2001, yet their yin and yang relationship has yielded a multimedia fashion empire with ofices in London, New York, Paris, Milan, and Los Angeles. “We are completely diferent, and that’s why it works,” says Torstensson. “I’m the freak, and Jens is the daddy. We have opposite strengths, so we split the work 50-50.” “The boys,” as they’re known in the industry, oversee 12 separate enterprises. In 2008, they launched Independent Talent Brands to link labels with celebrities (notable collaborations include Natalie Portman for Dior and Alexa Chung for Madewell). In 2011, bored with staid fashion magazines, they started their own. Their biannual glossy, Industrie, spotlights fashion heavyweights like Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani and photographers Mert & Marcus. In 2012, Torstensson and Grede introduced Frame, their editortested, model-approved denim line, to fll what they saw as a hole in the marketplace. “Maybe I shouldn’t say this, but I think the denim industry is way too referential, way too

046

heritage-based, and obsessed with manufacturing,” says Grede. “They forget about the woman and are consumed with washes and rivets.” Echoes Torstensson: “None of the women we know wear fuorescent jeans.” Instead, they focused on the basics: the perfect shade of blue, cuts that were ripped just enough so as not to look sloppy, all crafted through a “flter of chic.” Seeing the bigger picture—how jeans ft into a woman’s wardrobe— is the secret to Frame’s cultish popularity. The jeans are elevated and feminine. They make a woman feel sexy in the same way a good boyfriend style does. The brand’s “Le Color Rip” skinny jeans have been lauded for their ultra soft wash and leg-lengthening tears. They’re

edgy without going overboard, an aesthetic the duo strives for. “You can be chic, but you don’t have to be so serious. Denim doesn’t have to be dificult,” says Torstensson. The Frame woman is a combination of ladies, from Grede’s wife to Géraldine Saglio, assistantcum-stylist to French Vogue’s Emmanuelle Alt. She’s Lara Stone gleefully Instagramming a denim delivery tucked inside a box that might as well contain a Chanel bag (“We like to package up,” says Torstensson). She’s a barefaced Hanneli Mustaparta doing the twist in a campaign for a forthcoming line of T-shirts. She’s Karlie Kloss, hatching a plan over dinner in Paris to make jeans for tall girls. A year after the Forever Karlie

collaboration, women of shorter statures are still buying the line and trimming down the legs. Other models—Gisele Bündchen, Erin Wasson, Cindy Crawford— have proclaimed their love of Frame Denim, but Torstensson and Grede refuse to be seduced by their famous fan base. “We never get high on our own supply,” says Grede. “We know we’re only two seasons away from oblivion.” Which is why the boys are just as thrilled to see their jeans on the street as they are on Cara Delevingne. “My 14-year-old stepdaughter just told me a girl in her class was wearing Frame,” recalls Torstensson. “That the jeans are a part of the real world is the best feeling ever.”



C U S TO M - M A D E OUR RESID ENT DIY DIEHA RD MARIS SA SMITH SPILLS HER TIME- TESTED SECRE TS FOR CREAT ING A JEALO USYINDUC ING DENIM JACKE T. PHOTO GRAPH ED BY ERIC HELGA S

Take care of your baby It should be safe to occasionally ha ndwash your jacke t, but I’m risk-averse, so I just spritz mine with fabric spray every so oft en. Why mess with art?

Select a theme Your favorite band, a treasured hobby, or even a color palette are great places to begin.

Start the hunt Etsy is my go-to resource, — because it’s full of options vint age, new, homemade, …. embroidered, embellished I always start by looking for a large “anchor” patch k, to put on the jacket’s bac which then can be covered n with smaller pieces or eve words. Thrift stores and to eBay are also great places look—don’t be afraid to buy an old patched jacket and remove the best pieces to reappropriate on your own creation. I’ve even found incredible patches at gift ms. shops in zoos and museu

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Begin the placement proces s Lay out the jacket and start playing aroun d with the back, the n decide what you wa nt on the front, sleeve s, or collar. Take photo s of several diferent op tions and ponder which you like best.

ch Att ach a sew-on pat dle, You’ll need a thick nee ssors. sci and , ead thr ng stro a fun Colorful thread gives de DIY vibe, while a sha im that matches the den re mo a s ate cre ch pat or m polished look. Sew fro , to the inside of the jacket Either hide the thread knot. ms sea the of top on ch stit or do bordering the patch, longer, larger loops.

Attach an iron-on patch You’ll need an iron, an ironing board, and parchment paper. Place the patch on the jacket, and cover it with parchment paper to protect your patch from burning. Turn your iron to high heat. Once it’s ready, run it across the parchment paper.

rose, 100% satisfaction guaranteed, and triangle eye patches courtesy of gerritullis, skull and circle eye patches courtesy of somerabbits, matryoshka doll and pinup girl patches courtesy of tattooit, sequin patch courtesy of kingsophiesworld.

Procure the perfect jacket You can always buy one of the rack, but I prefer to upcycle an old jacket that ’s in dire need of some TLC. (I stole a great Old Navy one from my mom for this project.) Go with a lighter wash, so the patches stand out more.


FLARES: A LOVE STORY jacket by amour vert, shirt by blk dnm, jeans by mih jeans, shoes by diesel, necklace and bracelet by vita fede, rings by luv aj. photographed by annie powers. stylist: daisy de desus. hair and makeup: laura dee shelley at exclusive artists using aveda. model: kelsey at marilyn.

The skinny jean’s kung fu grip on fashion (and our ankles) is loosening up. markeT and accessories ediTor Tamar levine explains why iT’s Time To go wide.

I’m a denim connoisseur, a fanatic, an unrepentant jean junkie. My collection takes up half of my closet. You name it, I own it—widelegged, stretch, slouchy, coated, skinny, high-waisted—and probably in multiple washes. But no matter how delicious the stretch is on an ultra-skinny ankle jean or how perfect the distress job is on my boyfriend denim, my number one homies, hands down? My fares. It’s sad to me that fares have gotten a bad rap in recent years. While skinnies became the de facto badass rock star cut, bell-bottoms became, well, Very Brady. But the wider leg deserves better than that. Paired with a ftted vintage tee, they’re distinctly retro in a ’60s cool-girl Françoise Hardy kind of way. They’re also surprisingly fattering (the elongating illusion even gives a 5'4" bird like me the Karlie Kloss efect). Yes, the mid-’90s ushered in the mini-fare, in the form of the less aggressive boot cut. But no, thank you, 1996. I like my fares large and in charge. In a sea of skinnies, big fares make a big impression. And what’s cooler than that?

049


NOBLE

GAP 1969 DEnim DEsiGn DirEctor lArissA noblE isn’t rEinvEntinG thE brAnD’s historic jEAns. shE’s just mAkinG thEm coolEr. by mAurA kutnEr wAltErs

Larissa Noble goes to work wearing a white T-shirt, gray skinny jeans with a hole in the knee, and a cropped leather jacket. “I always feel a bit too precious in anything dressy,” she says over cofee at Manhattan’s Smyth Hotel. “Pressed and tidy just doesn’t work for me.” In fact, the only occasions in which Gap 1969’s head designer does not wear jeans are weddings and funerals—which works out well, given her lofty task of re-energizing a fashion staple at the world’s third-largest clothing retailer. Noble studied fne art at Skidmore before transferring to Parsons at the suggestion of a classmate. “I was always designing clothing and thinking about clothing, and one day a girl in my painting class said, ‘This isn’t any of my business, but what are you doing here? Go study fashion,’” recalls Noble. “I think I needed someone else to tell me that this was something I could actually do.” Her “whatever happens, happens” outlook is refreshing in an industry in which most assiduously plot their way to the top, and explains how Noble moved to New York City two years ago without having a job or an apartment lined up. She was coming of a decade as design director at 7 for All Mankind in Los Angeles, where she helped grow the brand from a mom-and-pop team to a driving force in the premium denim movement. “I felt very settled in L.A., and started to crave the energy of New York. I wanted to challenge myself, so I sold my house and bought a plane ticket.”

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Upon arrival, a friend introduced Noble to Gap’s creative director, Rebekka Bay, who hired her as a lifestyle consultant. “I originally focused on the concept of Gap denim: who our woman is and what her life is like,” says Noble. “You have to remember how personal denim is. You could never buy another woman a pair of jeans. They’re as intimate as lingerie.” At her neighborhood cofee shop, Noble surreptitiously took notes on how women styled their jeans, and what fts predominated. Soon, she was incorporating threads, buttons, and washes into her vision for Gap jeans, and Bay brought her on as the full-time denim design director last summer. Since then, Noble has gently guided consumers away from

fast-fashion competitors by ofering quality with an edge. The shelves at Gap are now stocked with a range of black and gray jeans. Some styles are even ripped, but you know they’ll never fall apart. There’s a readyto-wear approach in which denim also takes the form of a stitch-free pencil skirt or an acid-wash jacket. Noble’s talent is her ability to embrace trends while maintaining Gap’s trademark aesthetic. By dialing into the nostalgia of Gap’s 1970s San Francisco origins and the energy of today, she’s persuaded the customer to choose trustworthy over tricked-out. “My mantra is ‘never design down.’ I don’t limit myself by thinking I have a limited customer,” she explains. “In my mind, these women have amazing taste. I’m here to make that accessible.”

photographed by nick sethi. hair: josue perez at tracey mattingly for rowenta beauty. makeup: jessi butterfeld at exclusive artists using chanel.

PURSUIT


You are beautiful

www.dollhouse.com Jeanswear

Footwear

Outerwear

Kids

Hosiery

Intimates

Sleepwear

Sneakers

Eyewear


For 30 days, Fashion market director rachael Wang did all she could to get the perFect pair oF raW denim jeans. this is her story. photographed by eric helgas

don’t EvEr changE

I’ve long been intrigued by the raw denim cult—and the great lengths fanatics will go in order to break in their jeans. Kari Svarc of Naked & Famous Denim explained that raw denim is left unwashed after the indigo dyeing process, and over time, these jeans will achieve the holy grail of raw denim: fading in areas where the fabric is regularly creased or rubbed. Challenge accepted, I gave myself 30 days to earn some fades.

day 1

selection

I started my quest at New York City’s Self Edge, where I tried on basically every sort of denim imaginable: raw, selvedge, sanforized, unsanforized, heavyweight, Japanese. They were all stif and uncomfortable, so I decided on the pair with the best rear view: 3sixteen’s 77BSP.

052

day 3

contact

The name of the game is to wear the jeans as much as humanly possible. This means every single day—and according to rawrdenim.com’s “11 Ways to Fade Your Raw Denim Faster” guide, all night, too. I tried this once. It was unpleasant. It also stained my sheets blue.


DAY 8

DILIGENCE

Everywhere I went, my jeans went with me.

DAY 12

THE DEEP FREEZE A controversial topic in the denim world. Many fanatics believe that washing diminishes the fade. In lieu of throwing jeans in the laundry, they’ll wear them six months—and then toss them in the freezer. Freezing my pair seemed to decrease the stink factor slightly. Bonus: It also provided a nice reward on hot days.

DAY 15 Just going about my business!

DAY 29

THE WASH After 29

days of continuous wear, I threw caution to the wind and washed my jeans—inside out, with Woolite—and hung them to dry.

DAY 30

SUCCESS!

The jeans have molded to the shape of my body at this point and are actually quite comfortable. More important: I can happily report a few fades on the inner seams, by my knees.


JEANS GENIE

Monday: skinny jeans. Tuesday: skinny jeans. Wednesday: skinny jeans. Dependable, but predictable. Which is sad, since I have long dreamed of denim that speaks to my soul—that is as “me” as perma-freckles and chipped nail polish. I’ve spent many a Saturday shopping around New York, but the jeans I’ve taken home have always been competent but not exactly thrilling: fares (1998-2001), bootcuts (2001-2004), and skinnies (2004-today). While I’ve firted heavily with the boyfriend (3x1), the girlfriend (Frame’s Le Garçon), and the sweatpant-esque (Diesel’s Jogg jeans), I’m still desperately seeking that singularly perfect pair. Scott Morrison is a professional matchmaker in this feld if ever one existed—a denim legend, having

054

aftEr a lifEtiME looKiNg for thE pErfEct pair, ashlEy baKEr DiscovErs shE Was rEally sEEKiNg a DENiM soul MatE.

founded Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn before rocking the industry yet again with the aforementioned 3x1. His mission: “To make the best jeans in the world, one pair at a time.” At 3x1, you can buy great jeans of the rack, but it’s Morrison’s bespoke process—which ofers custom selection of everything from the thread color to the pocket shape— that I’m counting on to provide my denim soul mate. (The only downside is the price tag— expect to pay north of $1,000.) I arrive with a stack of printouts— Marianne Faithfull, Marilyn Monroe (circa The Misfts), Kate Moss

(during her wide-leg period), and, above all, Jane Birkin. In neck-toankles denim, Morrison greets me with a hug and a Diet Coke. “So we’re here to fnd your spirit jeans?” he asks. We decide that a particular photo of Jane Birkin has a unique appeal. “This is a classic men’s fve-pocket,” he says, studying the image. “Button-fy. See how the seams wrap around toward the front, and the leg is a little bit fuller than a straight-leg? Let’s start here.” Morrison hustles of into his stockroom and returns with a daunting stack of his men’s fts in an array of diferent sizes. A halfhour later, we’ve decided what we like: the high rise of the M3, the shape of the M4, and some slightly wider, higher pockets. We go up

a size, then back down. Morrison scribbles away on a pad and takes my measurements. His notes are then delivered to Yan Liang, his trusted patternmaker. A week later, I return. “Wear these for fve days straight,” instructs Morrison. “To the gym, if possible.” The goal is to see how these jibe with my body and identify the whisker points, so that Morrison can create a custom wash that already appears well-worn. Later that evening, I study myself in the mirror as I fasten the top button. The waistband wraps above my hip bones in a way that feels intimately familiar. The ’40s-era workwear leg, the button fy— yes, I’ve seen these before. I am transported back to 2002, my junior year in college, which was spent in Paris. A few days before my fight, I picked up my frst pair of “designer” jeans at a tony boutique in Boston. They cost $145, which amounted to roughly 12 hours of babysitting. An assault of memories: the Modernism class where I discovered the poetry of Wallace Stevens; the bar near the Bastille, its bathroom walls papered with a collage of religious iconography and pornography; the frst dinner party for eight I hosted in my 150-square-foot apartment. I dutifully wear my new ones for the required fve days before returning to 3x1 for a fnal ftting. Morrison, bless him, makes me another pair with slightly higher pockets and a dreamy faded wash akin to Jane Birkin’s go-to pair. When I try them on, it’s remarkable how dissimilar these jeans seem from hers, and how entirely they feel like mine. I immediately start plotting our adventures: chilly August nights on the beach in Montauk, our frst real Thanksgiving in the city. The very best jeans, like the very best art, evoke both the past and the future. And in case anything happens to them, Morrison assures me, my pattern will remain on fle for life.

i l l u s t r at E D b y E W E l i N a D y M E K


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hey, mr

The STeve Madden MuSic x nYLOn SuMMer cOncerT SerieS preSenTS nOrwegian Singer-SOngwriTer Mr LiTTLe JeanS.

Music has inspired Steve Madden’s designs since the beginning, so the brand is committed to supporting the coolest rising acts out there. This summer, it has partnered with NYLON to bring you Norwegian artist Mr Little Jeans (a.k.a. Monica Birkenes—the stage moniker was borrowed from the Wes Anderson flm Rushmore), whose lead single “Good Mistake” of her recent debut album Pocketknife has proven undeniably replay-worthy. With a self-described “Norwegian bossbeat meets lyrical jazz/ pop” sound, Mr Little Jeans ofers up tunes laden with pulsating synths, airy vocals, powerful lyrics, and a dose of that famous Scandinavian fair. The result is music that seamlessly blends a dark, mysterious quality with a simultaneous sense of brightness and light. “I tried to be as honest and true to myself as possible,” she says of creating the tracks on the record. “The sounds, the melodies, the moods, the lyrics—every song I write is an attempt to make something I would like to listen to if me and my songwriter self were complete strangers.” Catch her onstage as part of the Summer Concert Series belting out her songs while sporting her signature “Sunday best gone rogue” style and Steve Madden shoes.

gab

eLe

STe v d w e Mad den edg ’S e, 99. 95


photographed by felisha tolentino. stylist: dani michelle. hair and makeup: melinda dean. shot at the forge, los angeles.

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n’s madde 5 steve , 99.9 g wed e y e Z o Bo


DIESEL POWER DANI STAHL VISITS VENICE FOR A BEHINDTHE-SCENES LOOK AT FORMICHETTIFRONTED DIESEL’S ITALIAN RUNWAY SHOW. PHOTOGRAPHED BY DANIEL CINGARI

I’ve been on board the Diesel train for a very long time. As one of the original purveyors of designer denim, the Italian-to-the-core fashion brand rocked my native New York in the late 1990s as the ultimate source of exceptional jeans with a punk vibe. With its forward-looking Manhattan flagship, Diesel emerged as a new type of lifestyle brand under the leadership of its founder, Renzo Rosso. The jeans were unique: low-waisted, and totally messed up—in a good way. Diesel was among the earliest pioneers of treatments like bleaching, distressing, and even stretch, and the industry was forever changed. Like every successful brand, Diesel has gone through diferent incarnations that reflect the times, and last year, it appointed Nicola Formichetti as its new artistic director. Formichetti, of course, became a household name thanks to his work with Lady Gaga (meat dress, anyone?). He’s been called a stylist, although that definition seems a little narrow: He blends fashion and art, and infuses the finished product with an edgy sensibility. Few, if any, of his contemporaries have done such iconic work. And he’s just so cool—I mean, don’t you follow him or his dogs Tank and Bambi on Instagram? Formichetti cultivates a Warholian cast of characters, which he has already brought onto the Diesel scene in his groundbreaking #DIESELREBOOT campaigns. Any fashion-phile is a fan.

So naturally, this Factory Girl had to catch his first full-fledged runway show in Italy. Along with a few hundred other Diesel addicts, I hop a plane to Venice for a three-day spectacular. (On the flight, I spot a striking Brit swilling champagne in a back row and think, “That guy’s going to be in the show.” I’m right.) After landing, I check into the historic and very grand Hotel Danieli. Within moments, I have a forkful of the best risotto I’ve ever tasted in my mouth. (Note to self: Risotto and skinny jeans don’t necessarily

mix.) After a good night’s sleep, I take a taxi boat and an hour-anda-half car ride to Bassano, where Diesel’s headquarters are located. The ofices are very modern, with an open courtyard. I am whisked into Renzo Rosso’s ofice, where your usually fearless Factory Girl finds herself somewhat intimidated by the presence of such a fashion giant on the morning of a major show. With a NYLON TV crew in tow, we talk shop. Rosso, like his label, is so quintessentially Italian that I’m not surprised to learn that he has denim, denim, and more denim


ladies and gents, renzo rosso!

the man of the hour: nicola formichetti

pledged five million euros to restore the Rialto Bridge, a national treasure that’s one of the top tourist attractions in Venice. Rosso notices my brandspanking-new Diesel moto jacket with a wolf emblazoned on the back and excitedly shows me a large wolf emblem hanging behind his desk. Not gonna lie, I feel pretty cool that I’m among the first to have scored the jacket. I continue on my tour, making a pit stop at a sewing machine before immersing myself, momentarily, in the Diesel archives. (Sorry, no photographs allowed.) Later that evening, I end up at the main event on a barge on the river. I interview Formichetti backstage, and moments later Rosso arrives, having

helicoptered in to the event from his ofice. (Yes, his ofice has its own landing pad.) It becomes clear that Rosso and Formichetti are, for lack of a better term, boys. Two peas in a pod. Homies. Creative collaborators who are obviously out to push boundaries. I watch the run-through, and soon enough, it’s showtime. The guests have come from all around the world, and it’s the first show I’ve attended where there are—gasp!—no assigned seats, because everyone is considered to be a VIP. I sit back and marvel at the tremendous Nick Knight-curated projections showing everything from dolphins to some fairly explicit images. The models come out, all

100 of them, a mix of professionals and street-cast people. Piercings and tattoos are definitely present, as is the musician Brooke Candy, one of Formichetti’s new muses. The clothes are as awesome as I’ve come to expect from Diesel—lots of denim, leather, and rocker basics. Naturally, Brooke ends up topless—so very European. Afterward, I hit the cocktail party and savor my last few bites of ravioli. The next morning, I board a British Airways flight back to New York, and while I may be departing from the land of Diesel, I’ll be rocking their denim ’til I die.

059


royal jasm musician, dj, mtv star, and one of the brains behind the awesome global party electric punanny, jasmine solano is on top of the world—and her casio baby-g watch helps her keep it that way. here she discusses her many endeavors and her trusty timepiece.


photographed by sergiy barchuk. hair and makeup: rachel wood at artists by timothy priano.

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ine BGa180-4B

B Ga 1 8 0 -7 B 2

How did you first get into music? I’ve always somehow found my way to a stage. When I was nine, I performed “Shoop” by Salt-N-Pepa (I know, a little much for a youngster) to a crowd of over 1,000 people, and that’s when the spark really ignited. During my teenage years, the overachiever in me kicked in: I did spoken word, danced hip-hop, organized music events in my town, and started DJing on the radio at 17. Who are your musical idols? Female musicians with undeniable talent who have mastered the delicate balance between sexiness and class— women like Bette Davis, Erykah Badu, Nikka Costa, Diana Ross, Lauryn Hill, Gwen Stefani, and Aaliyah.

How would you characterize your sound? Right now I’d have to say something along the lines of “island-punk-rockneo-soul.” What are your favorite kinds of events to dJ? The more outlandish the location, the better. In Singapore on the Marina Bay Sands rooftop, I DJed 58 foors above ground with a full view of the city. For New York Fashion Week I spun in a fourstory, life-size dollhouse. What’s it been like working with mtv? Amazing. I was lucky to be introduced to the stellar team over at MTV Iggy including Andrew Rowe, Beto Vargas, and Beverly Bryan, who really believed in me. They let me run with my idea for a DJculture-travel-music show, which is now a miniseries, Scratch the Surface.

How did the idea for electric Punanny come about? In the spring of 2008, MeLo-X and I came up with the idea of producing a party that married dancehall and electro music. We started it as a monthly event at Sway in New York City with Roxy Cottontail and Tone. Soon we had hundreds of people blocking the streets to get in. Fast-forward to today and we’ve become an international DJ duo performing everywhere from Stockholm to Tokyo. how would you describe your personal style? Island couture. (Insert palm tree emoji!) How does your Casio Baby-G watch keep you on top of your game? Between traveling and touring internationally and balancing that with a healthy lifestyle, I need to manage my time. My Casio Baby-G keeps me on track.

baby-g.com


B L A C K+ B L U E U p y o U r s t y L E g A m E w i t h t h E s E t r i C K E d - o U t d E n i m s tA p L E s i n A L L t h E i r g L o r y.


p h o t o g r a p h e d b y j e n s i n g va r s s o n

styled by daisy de jesus


1. kate spade saturday, $170 2. white crow, $85 3. maison jules, $79 4. dollhouse, $52 5. buffalo david bitton, $108 6. denim & supply ralph lauren, $145 7. courtshop, $157 opposite page: jacket by alberta ferretti, shirt by sandro, pants by ag, shoes by aldo. previous page left: all clothing by diesel, shoes by rupert sanderson, necklace by jennifer zeuner, bracelet by kelly wearstler. previous page right: dress by diesel, necklace and bracelet by robert lee morris.




1. element, $94 2. a.p.c., $370 3. mango, $100 4. g-star, $340 5. wildfox, $268 6. current/elliott, $298 7. citizens of humanity, $330 8. res denim, $140 opposite page: jumpsuit by sea.


1. frame, $199 2. [blanknyc], $88 3. lover, $350 4. american eagle outfitters, $40 5. current/elliott, $194 6. mih jeans, $220 7. ksubi, $140 8. victoria beckham, $450 9. paige denim, $179 opposite page: shirt by sandro, skirt by stella mccartney, shoes by coach, earrings by robert lee morris, bracelet by house of harlow 1960. hair: travis speck at sally hershberger. makeup: katie mellinger at joe management using chanel. manicurist: angel williams at opus beauty using dior vernis. model: constanze at marilyn.



DEEP

LEt DEnim–AnD itS SignAtUrE hUE–wASh ovEr yoUr AccESSoriES. PhotogrAPhED By DAviD BrAnDon gEEting. StyLED By DAni StAhL

BLUE


backpack by marc by marc jacobs, $198, shoe by soludos, $43, bootie by laurence dacade, $940. previous page: dark denim sunglasses by diesel, $180, light denim sunglasses by ray-ban, $250.


bag by miu miu, $2,500.


double wrap watch by swatch, $90, white face watch by swatch, $70, bracelet by scosha, $110.


bag by prada, $1,480, shoe by gianvito rossi, $645. prop stylist: lauren nikrooz. fashion assistant: marissa smith.


IRA

AK

SH

USE THIS COLLECTION TOGETHER TO

WHITEN YOUR SMILE IN JUST 1 DAY www.3DWhite.com

life opens up with a whiter smile ©Procter & Gamble, Inc. 2014 ORAL-15627


1. wildfox, $248 2. moon and lola, $98 3. hudson, $295 4. gelareh mizrahi, $845 5. vigoss, $68 6. dolce & gabbana, $430 7. ag, $198 8. street people atelier, $29 9. suno x nicholas kirkwood, $795 10. suno, $425 still lifes: kate lacey.

OUR FAVORITE TAKES ON THE OH-SO-MANY WAYS TO STYLE YOUR DENIM THIS SEASON.

JEAN DREAM


1. elevenparis, $147 2. bcbgmaxazria, $98 3. paige denim, $289 4. buffalo david bitton, $79 5. bebe, $109 6. antonio berardi, $2,430 7. comme des garรงons, $110 8. a fine line, $77 9. silver jeans co., $102 10. freedom at topshop, $30 11. miu miu, $890 12. pamela love, $85 still lifes: kate lacey.

077


078

1. steven alan, $198 2. topshop, $50 3. lemlem, $245 4. a.p.c., $235 5. topshop, $116 6. reece hudson, $895 7. j brand, $209 8. chloĂŠ, $920 9. 7 for all mankind, $265 10. stella mccartney, $615 11. missoni, $445 still lifes: kate lacey.


AMERICA’S NEXT TOP MODEL

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S T A R R I N G t y r a b a n k s , k e l ly c u t r o n e , j . a l e x a n d e r + Y U T S A I For the second time, guys and girls will be pitted against each other in competition for the title of America’s Next Top Model and a prize p a c k a g e t h at i n c l u d e s t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o b e r e p r e s e n t e d b y N E X T M o d e l s , a 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 p r i z e f r o m G u e s s , a n d a f a s h i o n f e at u r e r i g h t h e r e i n N Y L O N ! Pottle Productions Inc ©2014 Pottle Productions Inc. All Rights Reserved.


brav e new wo r ld


take a chance on fall’s most daring makeup trends. photographed by jamie nelson. makeup by jenny smith for nars


ri n g b y ch r is h a ba n a. pre v io u s p ag e: e a rri n g b y c h ri s h ab a na , n e c k l ac e b y a le x is b i ttar .


H eavy m etal

t o m ak e e y e s re al ly s H in e , dam pe n t H e b ru sH b e f o re swe e pin g we t /dry s H adow o n t o u ppe r an d ac ro ss l owe r l ids, t H e n b l e n d dark sH adow al o n g l asH l in e s f o r adde d d e f in it io n , say s m ak e u p a rt ist Je n n y sm it H . n ars dio n e du ali n t e n sit y e y e sH adow, $ 2 9 , l arg e r t H an l if e l o n g -we ar e y e l in e r i n n ig H t po rt e r, $ 2 4 , n arsc o sm e t ic s. c o m


c u r i ous blo o m

b a l a n c e a r i o t o f r o se b y ca nc eli ng o u t o ther re d n e ss with con ce ale r a n d powder a rou n d t h e e y e s , a n d tr ac ing the low er water line w ith n ud e lin e r, says s m ith. na rs d uo e y e s h a d ow i n b o utha n, $ 3 5, b lu sh in ga iety a nd de sire , $ 30 e ach , n ars co s met i cs . c o m . e a r c u f f b y chr i s ha b a na , nec klac e b y a lexis bittar.


Afte r b l Ac kin g o u t l ids An d l Ash l in e s, g e t An Ab st rAc t e f f e c t b y u sin A fAn brush to slAsh c re Am sh Adow Aro u n d t h e o u t side , sAy s sm it h . se ph o rA c o l l e c t io ve lve t e ye sh Adow in n o s. 10 An d 11, $ 15 e Ac h , se ph o rA.c o m . rin g b y c h ris h Ab An A

r ough ed ges




DREAM GIRL

For Marc Jacobs’s latest scent, soFia coppola Finds bliss in a bavarian Meadow.

When it came time for Marc Jacobs to choose someone to shoot the television ad for his newest fragrance, Daisy Dream, one name came to mind. Sofa Coppola, his pal and director of dreamy flms like Marie Antoinette, and coincidentally, the frst face of the designer’s original eponymous scent, was the perfect choice. For the ad, Coppola employed her signature aesthetic to document model Antonia Wesseloh doing her thing in the Bavarian countryside— frolicking in tall grass, playing with sparklers, and gazing up at the sky. Here, the indie auteur breaks down the process of working with one of her best friends and capturing the vibe of Daisy Dream. KATIE DICKENS What was it like working with Marc on this project? Because we have similar tastes, it was easy for me. I had complete freedom to make something pretty that I hoped captured the feeling that he wanted to portray. How did the fragrance inspire the concept of the ad? Because of the name, we wanted it to feel dreamy. Fragrance is very abstract, so how you convey it—you know, the feeling that you want or the girl—matters. I like to think of things as a memory, or an impression.

How did you pick the Bavarian countryside? Juergen Teller shot [the print ad], and that was his neck of the woods. Just being there in the hot summertime, the girls running around in the tall felds—we were very into the daisy spirit. How is your process diferent for this kind of shoot versus a feature flm? I enjoy doing fragrance commercials because they are impressionistic. They're more about a mood, an atmosphere, and a personality, as opposed to a story. How did you incorporate your signature style into the ad? Antonia has a diferent feeling about her. She has an interesting quality like she’s lost in her own thoughts. There is something dreamy about her lying around looking at the clouds. We wanted to evoke the personality of the girl who would wear Daisy Dream. Which of your characters or flms would you most closely associate with Daisy Dream? Virgin Suicides. There are similarities in the mood and the imagery of the girls in the felds [shown in the ad]. There’s a connection. marc jacobs daisy dream eau de toilette, $94 for 3.4 f. oz., sephora.com


lov ely rita New York City has been a fruitful muse to novelists, artists, and designers through the years. One in particular, Donna Karan, found it so inspirational that she named her difusion line DKNY. And now, for that brand’s newest scent, MYNY, she’s created an olfactive love letter to the Big Apple. It’s an energetic and fun blend of raspberry, pink peppercorn, and patchouli. Though not a born-and-bred New Yorker, onetime resident Rita Ora is the face of the scent, and simply embodies the free-spiritedness and energy of the city. Here, Ora reveals what she loves about MYNY, her first fragrance memories, and her favorite spots in the city. KD

daisy behind-the-scenes images courtesy of coty prestige. mara hofman runway image courtesy of tigi. phillip lim backstage image courtesy of nars.

PO NY UP There are two things you can count on at Mara Hofman’s runway show: The collection will be an explosion of colors, and TIGI’s global creative director Nick Irwin will create an equally eye-catching hairstyle. “Mara is such a close friend now, that we’ve got this sort of telepathic relationship,” says Irwin. Bright hues and cool ’dos came together for Hofman’s ’13 swimwear collection, where Irwin wrapped extra-long plaited strands with multicolored tribalinspired hairpieces on the models. “We took references from tassels that adorn

camels at Middle Eastern weddings,” says Hofman. You can’t actually get your hands on those handmade accessories (unless you’re a friend of the designer), but TIGI is ofering up a more wearable, though no less charming, version of the runway pieces as a gift with purchase. These pom-poms are like a party for your pony. JADE TAYLOR catwalk by tigi x mara hofman accessory, gift with purchase of any two catwalk by tigi products, catwalkbytigi. com for salons

How would you describe the fragrance? It makes you feel ready to go out and do what you need to do—and do it well!

your hair 100 strokes each day is not DIFFERENT STROKES Despite what Marcia Brady may have said, brushing , brushing can help redistribute oils, rev up moderation in However, ends. split and breakage cause can It advisable. s are contingent upon the quality of the circulation in the scalp, and make strands soft and shiny. But the advantage foray into tools, the brand has opted first its for so this, s understand brush. Aussie hair brand Original & Mineral variety. "We wanted to provide the tools for stylist-approved boar bristles, which are much gentler than the plastic creative director Janelle Chaplin. The trio—a to accompany our great products for even better hairstyles," explains get out the knots—has you covered in every to detangler a and softness, for option paddle a round brush for volume, mean the end of bad hair days forever. JT might products, O&M's with n situation. In fact, these tools, in conjunctio original & mineral brushes, $30 each, originalmineral.com

pol ish ed up It would be a shame to accessorize Phillip Lim’s sleek 31 Minute clutch with raggedy nails. So to ensure his fresh aesthetic extends to the tips of his customers’ fingers, the designer teamed up with Nars, the makeup brand he’s worked with for the past 14 fashion weeks, to whip up nine ultra-glossy lacquers in shades that have appeared in Lim’s collections. “These colors are interesting because they have such a transformative quality,” says Lim. “In the daytime, you see one color and at night, you see something diferent.” This includes the inky violet Crossroads that made its debut on his fall runway, which can look like a prune or an overripe plum, depending on the lighting. In case you want every hue, Lim has also designed a sleek pouch to stash them in style. KD 3.1 phillip lim for nars nail polish, $20 each, pochette, $80, narscosmetics.com

What was your first fragrance? Chanel No. 5. My mother always had so many bottles that I would steal. And when I was 13, I’d wear my father’s aftershave to school. What kind of girl would wear this scent? I see her as very daring, brave, and confident; someone who isn’t afraid to be good to herself. What are your favorite places in New York? Up & Down and 1Oak for partying and enjoying myself. And Soho House just to chill out with friends and eat some food! dkny myny eau de parfum, $88 for 3.4 fl. oz., macys.com


magic wands test on the la ickens p u h s u br ie d s . b y k at mascara

Laura Mercier Faux Lash Mascara Applying fake fringe can be incredibly time-consuming. This thickening and lengthening formula ofers the look of falsies without the frustration. $24, lauramercier.com

Giorgio Armani Black Ecstasy Mascara The average woman applies between 30 and 90 coats of mascara a day (seriously!). But no matter how much of this feather-light formula you pile on, your lashes won’t be weighed down. $32, giorgioarmanibeauty. com

Perricone MD No Mascara Mascara If your lashes are looking a bit blah, this neuropeptideand biotin-packed option will surely bring them back to life. $30, sephora.com

090

Lancôme Grandiôse Mascara Mimicking makeup artists’ habit of bending wands to help evenly distribute mascara, this “swanneck” shape ofers a similarly foolproof application. $32, lancome.com

Marc Jacobs Beauty O!Mega Lash Volumizing Mascara Get the doll lashes of your dreams with this dual-ended brush that creates volume with one side and separates with the other. $26, sephora.com

Givenchy Noir Couture Volume Mascara This magic wand has two types of bristles, so you can get major volume with one swipe, without any unsightly clumps. $32, barneys.com

i l l u s t r at i o n b y e s r a r o i s e


COVERGIRL

KATY PERRY ©2014 P&G

STAY LUMINOUS Iridescent new shades that last up to 24 luminous hours.

outlast illumina lipcolor ®

TM

7 NEW SHADES Katy is luminous in outlast® illuminaTM lipcolor #740 Moonlight Mauve, outlast® stay brilliant nail gloss #140 Pink-finity, #322 Show Stopper. Find your shade @ covergirl.com


SN AP HA PP Y Fat fringe When it comes to her lashes, Perry adopts a “big is beautiful” mantra. Though some of that volume can be attributed to falsies, it’s clear she also loads up on mascara. bombshell curvaceous by lashblast mascara, $12

save face Perry has admitted she doesn’t have the best skin, but you’d never know it by looking at her. Who needs filters when you have products that function as topical retouchers? ready, set, gorgeous fresh complexion pressed powder foundation, $9, and concealer, $8

eternal flame Lipstick needs to last the length of the red carpet and beyond, especially when it’s a fiery shade of red (a Perry go-to hue). That’s when a long-wear formula is a must. outlast illumina lipcolor in radiant red, $10

PAINTBOX

SPACE INVADER

17 crosby street, new york city Within a 10-block radius of NYLON's SoHo HQ, there are more nail salons than I can count on my fingers and toes. And although they're great for a quickie polish change, these bare-bones spots lack character and ambience. I'm happy to report that the recently opened Paintbox is changing all that. The brainchild of former beauty editor Eleanor Langston, who obviously learned a trick or two at her editorial gig, is a manicure-only mecca that boasts an interior that is just as cool as the minimalist nail designs its very talented team of artists whips up. Choose from a menu of pre-designed nail art, including Fire Starter (a holographic foil), Mercury Rising (an abstract splatter design), and Split Personality (a noncheesy French), available in regular polish or gel. Bonus: Once your fingers have gotten the Paintbox treatment, you can take a nail selfie (yes, you read that correctly) inside the studio's in-house mani cam. JT

paintbox photographed by ally lindsay.

Photographing stars sans makeup seems to be a game for paparazzi, but for a while common folk could continue going about their business with a bare face. Then, Instagram came along and nonstars suddenly had to prep for spontaneous group selfies and social-mediaobsessed friends. CoverGirl feels your pain and has created a collection that helps you get cameraready in a flash. Makeup lover, red carpet pro, and CoverGirl spokeswoman Katy Perry is fronting a line of foundation, mascara, lipgloss, and more that’s fittingly called #instaGLAM. Here, we pay homage to one of our favorite glamour girls. KD

Never nude

You won’t catch Perry with a naked lip. Eve n when she dares to go barely there, it’s the perfect hue of neutra l lipstick or gloss. colorlicious lip gloss in melted tofee, $10


B L U E S TE E L is trio of ur Blend th acro ss yo s ow ad r sh trac e you lids, then lines with sh er upp er la w er and lo bla ck lin with bright e n li wat er l. m.a .c teal p enci eye shadow s ic et sm co ene, plate, sc in copp er , $15 on and carb magraphic ro ea ch, ch i- def cyan, h p encil in akohl liner n $16, te ch ck, $16, bla in graph et ics.com mac co sm

To get the windblown lo ok prep damp ha , sea salt spra ir with y, brush it forw then ard and blow-dry. Fl at ten it down with a ha se cure d tight irnet ly around your crown, and blast w ith a blow-dryer. label.m sea salt spra y, $23, labelm.com /us

AT THE GILE S FALL ’14 SHOW, THE LOOK WAS PRET TY PUNK WITH TEAL-AND -GRAY-RI MME D EYES BY MAKE UP ARTI ST LUCI A PIER ONI and dish evel ed ’dos by styl ist Sach a Masc olo- Tarb uck.

nt o alm o lear b e Pat c r moist ur e. o lip s f t the shin lip u witho c o smet ics , $15, e m.a .c ioner t ub om it d s .c ic t con e osm macc

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TRUE GRIT

TO GET RADIANT WITHOUT FEELING THE BURN, IT MIGHT BE TIME TO POWDER UP, SAYS DERMATOLOGIST DEBRA JALIMAN.

josie maran argan exfoliating powder, $35, qvc.com

om aroma rice bran, $20, urbanoutfitters.com

boscia tsubaki oil-infused exfoliating powder, $36, sephora.com

nude skincare detox brightening fizzy powder wash, $38, sephora.com

tatcha polished gentle rice enzyme powder, $65, tatcha.com

photographed by jens ingvarsson. model: caitlin at one management. debra jaliman illustrated by meghann stephenson.

blisslabs active 99.0 refining powder cleanser, $60, blissworld.com

murad transforming powder, $30, murad.com

givenchy hydra sparkling one-minute glow powder, $41, barneys.com

The importance of incorporating exfoliation into a skincare regimen can’t be overstated. But those with sensitive skin must tread carefully, because most methods of sloughing can cause redness, peeling, and burning. There’s another way, however: cleansing powder, an innovative type of exfoliator that resembles loose setting powder. “They are very gentle, yet efective,” says Dr. Debra Jaliman, author of Skin Rules. “These are great for anyone who can’t tolerate harsh scrubs.” But even those with hardier complexions can reap the powders’ illuminating benefits, as the products often include a wide range of beneficial ingredients such as clarifying adzuki beans, detoxifying coconut, antioxidant-rich rice bran, oil-absorbing cornmeal, and toning rose petals. To apply the powerful particles, splash your face with warm water, dispense a teaspoon of the powder into your hand, drip water onto it until it forms a paste, and then gently massage it into your face using circular motions before removing it with a damp washcloth. If you’re on the oily side, it’s OK to use exfoliating powders daily, but dry or sensitive skin types should stick to weekly application. Regular use is guaranteed to leave your dull complexion in the dust. KATIE DICKENS

may lindstrom skin the clean dirt cleansing clay, $60, beautyhabit.com


THE s h o p. n y l o n m a g . c o m

NYLON

photographed by silja magg.

the coolest styles, from our closet to yours


VA N I T Y FA R E

SER VIN G UP THE NEW EST BEA UTY

DEL IGH TS.

BY KAT IE DIC KEN S. ILL UST RAT ED BY HYE KHI M

SMOKING HOT POWER PLAIT Braids can be a movie heroine’s most iconic feature. Some standouts include Bo Derek’s cornrows in 10, Janet Jackson’s long box braids in Poetic Justice, and Jennifer Lawrence’s side-winding French plait in The Hunger Games. But my personal favorite is Carrie Fisher’s Star Wars Princess Leia ’do, which resembled a pair of giant Cinnabons. Attempting to re-create any of those looks without professional assistance is a feat for most, especially those with straight, smooth strands, which tend to slip. Now Oscar Blandi has made plaiting a tad easier with a cream he’s dubbed Braid Paste, which adds texture to tresses, giving them the right amount of grip and hold to ensure that your hard work won’t suddenly unravel. oscar blandi pronto braid paste, $25, ulta.com

SWEET DREAMS

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The centerpiece of Parisian patisserie Ladurée is the pastel rainbow of macarons. From the mint green pistachio to golden lemon to baby pink rose, the petite cookies are just so damn pretty that it’s almost a shame to devour them. Makeup brand Nyx also fell hard for the French pastries—so much so that it whipped up a dozen macaron-colored lipsticks. Though many of the shades, like Blue Velvet, Key Lime, and Citron, seem made for the very brave, there are subtler hues, such as Rose and Violet, for the colorshy. But at six dollars a tube, you may be tempted to gobble up the whole batch. nyx macaron lippies, $6 each, nyxcosmetics.com

I’m a huge fan of baked goods (you’ll never catch me riding the Paleo bandwagon), and this adoration extends to makeup. That’s because oven-cured powders pack more of a pigment punch than their uncooked counterparts. Now, Chanel’s eight new additions to its popular eyeshadow quads are feeling the heat. The silky, smudge-proof shadows are the perfect thing for creating a smoky eye as chic as the fashion house’s classic 2.55 bag. chanel quadra eyeshadow, $61 each, chanel.com


PETAL WORKS Fun fact: The prettiest cherry blossom trees don’t actually bear the eponymous fruit. That’s because the scenestealing sakura that beckon people to our nation’s capital and Japan in April were bred to be ornamental, not a source of pie flling. As such, the blossoms’ aroma only vaguely suggests the juicy fruit. For Fendi’s sakura fower-based fragrance Blossom, the perfumer simply bottled the ethereal look and feeling of the delicate blooms, which translates to a delightful blend of light forals, like jasmine, magnolia, and, of course, the namesake blossom, enhanced by raspberry and pink peppercorn. fendi fan di fendi blossom eau de toilette, $71 for 1.7 f. oz., macys.com

PULP NOVEL Throughout history, sea buckthorn, a.k.a. seaberry, has been seen as a source of energy and natural healing power when eaten. Ancient Greeks believed Pegasus grew wings after munching on the leaves, and Indian Ayurveda disciples dined on the health-giving berry they dubbed the “holy fruit of the Himalayas.” The antioxidant-rich berry is also pretty great when applied to your person, which is why Fresh created its Seaberry collection of skin- and bodycare. Now, the line is tending to tresses with a shampoo and conditioner that harness the fruit’s power to make hair shinier, softer, and generally healthier. It seems the seaberry is far from ancient history. fresh seaberry revitalizing shampoo and conditioner, $26 each, fresh.com

POWER PLANTS Oil is a magic beauty elixir. Whether ingested when cooking with omega-rich olive, coconut, or avocado varieties, or applied from head to toe in the form of skin, body, and hair treatments, the stuf makes strands shine and skin glow. The latest brand to get in on the action is Sisley, which has mixed up a revitalizing cocktail of camelina fower, plum, and black rose oil. A few drops are enough to revive even the dullest complexion, while Bulgarian rose and magnolia essential oils leave skin smelling like a fancy garden. sisley black rose precious face oil, $235, sisley-paris.com


fresh blood fresh Ni na Do b r e v ’s Va mp i r e d ay s may soon be ov er ,

but s he ’ s f i ndi ng p l e nt y o f o ther thi ngs to si nk her teeth i nto. By A shley Ba k er.

P ho t o g r a p hed by Si lj a Magg. Sty led by R acha el Wa ng



uSpended in midair, nina dobrev rcheS into a backbend. eyeS erenely cloSed, She willS her rmS and legS to go limp while he extendS her torSo toward he ceiling.

Supported by a complex confguration of nylon ropes, this is Dobrev’s third ascent of the day at the rock-climbing wall at Chelsea Piers in New York City. She scaled the frst two with natural precision, stepping vertically from rock to rock as if she were stone-skipping across a stream. “Can you get a photo?” she shouts from above, her face reddening with blood. Click. “OK, I’m ready,” she says, wriggling back upright. Our instructor, a wiry, amicable dude in cargo shorts named Chris, gives the ropes some slack as she hoists herself upward, a little more encumbered now. Chris nods his head in admiration and approval. He may have mistaken her for my guru or trainer, but it’s likely he didn’t ID her as a celebrity. Then again, Chris is not exactly the target demo of The Vampire Diaries, the hit CW series to which Dobrev owes her fame. She slaps the wall’s fnal hold and rappels gracefully toward the ground. Upon a silent landing, she gives me a thumbs-up then comically falls to the foamy foor, legs and arms splayed in a snow-angel position, and smiles. “Your turn,” she says. “You’ve never done this before?” she asked an hour earlier while we signed away our rights to sue if we were to, you know, perish. “I love that.” After hanging of of supports no larger than a bagel while my arms, legs, and internal organs quake and Dobrev cheers from far, far below, we rub the chalk from our hands, step out of our harnesses, and make our way to the exit. “Are you getting blisters yet?” she asks gleefully, brandishing her palms. As we weave through a weight room, a group of musclemen pause midrep and swivel their heads in her direction, but they fail to register. “Whether it’s rock climbing or sports or acting or studying for something, I get very competitive,” explains Dobrev. “Success is the only option—well, the highest level of success is the only option. I’m kind of extremist in that way.” A reward is in order: pedicures. Dobrev bounds out of Chelsea Piers and fags a taxi. Still wearing black leggings, a stretchy gray

jacket, and running shoes, the only thing distinguishing her from the thousands of other really, really pretty girls wearing workout clothes on a Saturday afternoon in New York is her preternaturally long eyelashes and very pampered-looking skin. Dobrev wriggles inside the cab, and we barrel down the West Side Highway. Upon exiting on West Broadway in Tribeca, she fails to fnd her bearings. “I’m not that familiar with New York neighborhoods,” she says. The nail salon needs a few minutes, so we pop in the nearby Steven Alan fagship, where Dobrev ponders a jewelry case. She enlists the help of a salesperson in trying on a delicate rose gold bar necklace inset with glitter-sized diamonds. “Is it too expensive?” she wonders, but she won’t be taking it of. The salesperson snips of the tag, and after a cursory lap around the store, Dobrev heads to the register and ofers her credit card. “I don’t have much time to shop,” she admits. “When I see something I love, I get it.”

On October 2, the sixth and maybe-fnal season of The Vampire Diaries will premiere, and while Dobrev, 25, is among the mostchronicled young actresses in Hollywood, she only sees Los Angeles a few times a year. A proud homeowner in Atlanta, Georgia, where the show flms, Dobrev lives not unlike a middle-aged ofice drone: waking early, going in, doing her thing, going home—with a few exceptions, like late-night yoga in her private studio, occasionally taught by a yogi named Jason whom she describes as “Adonis.” Or her penchant for adventure sports like laser tag and Whirlyball. “It’s basically bumper cars with lacrosse sticks,” she explains, enthusiastically. Or her sports car, the frst one she’s ever bought brand-new. “I thought, ‘I’m going to get my young-girl car, because the next one’s probably going to be an SUV,’” she says apologetically, as if acutely aware of its mom/kids/suburbs connotations. But Dobrev’s day job on The Vampire Diaries keeps her frmly tethered to teenaged life. And, of course, the supernatural. Over the run of the show’s frst fve seasons, her character, Elena Gilbert, has evolved from a small-town orphan to a 19th-century ex-vampire and, sort of, back again. “She learned how to access the evil in herself—the evil that resides in everyone,” says Ian Somerhalder, who co-stars as vampire Damon Salvatore. “She always wants to do her own stunts. Sometimes they let her; sometimes they don’t.” Dobrev has also emerged as a leader among the cast and crew. “Nina likes to rally everyone and create a great family environment in Atlanta,” says Paul Wesley, who plays vampire Stefan Salvatore. “Which is key, because I’d probably be a hermit in my apartment otherwise.” Due—or thanks—to the show’s success, Dobrev’s personal anonymity has been compromised. “I really do forget,” she says of being famous. “I was at a play last week, Of Mice and Men with James Franco—it was really


P R E V I O U S S P R E A D : s h i r t b y w h at g o e s a r o u n d c o m e s a r o u n d v i n ta g e , c o r s e t b y m a r n i , s h i r t ( w o r n a r o u n d wa i s t ) b y va n s , j e a n s b y g a p , s h o e s b y b a l ly, e a r r i n g s b y c l a i r e ’ s , p e n d a n t n e c k l a c e b y m i a n s a i , n e c k l a c e w i t h r i n g b y d av i d y u r m a n , r i n g w i t h s t o n e b y l a d y g r e y, bracelet and all other rings by workhorse jewelry (all jewelry worn throughout). this p a g e : c o at a n d s h o r t s b y d i e s e l , s h i r t b y w h at g o e s a r o u n d c o m e s a r o u n d v i n ta g e .



“WHEn I SIGnEd on [for THE VAmPIrE dIArIES ] AT 20, I knEW I’d bE 26 WHEn I GoT off. noT THAT I WAS AfrAId THAT I Would bE old, buT…. I loVE THE SHoW, buT I don’T WAnT To bE dEfInEd by juST THE SHoW.”

THIS PAGE: t-shirt b y l e v i ’ s v i n ta g e clothing, necklace w i t h r i n g b y d av i d yurman, charm necklace by miansai, earrings by claire’s.

good—and somebody tapped me on the shoulder and kind of scared me. I was like, ‘Do I know you?’ and then they’re like, ‘You’re Elena.’ I was like, ‘Fuck! That’s right, that’s right.’ People feel like they know you when you’re in their living room, weekly, for fve years. But I always get uncomfortable when people know more about me than I know about them. Part of the fun is getting to know someone, discovering each other. When that’s gone, it is very strange.” As a young actress whose success has been predicated on a single series, Dobrev has something, maybe several things, to prove. So as she’s pondered her life post-Diaries, she’s resolved to make some big moves. “I’ve done so much that I was like, ‘What’s the point? What am I trying to get out of this?’” she says, settling into a plush, chintz-covered armchair at the nail spa and handing her pedicurist a bottle of neutral gold polish. “Everyone thinks that when you achieve certain things, you’ll be happy. But I feel like, ‘OK. I did it. Now what?’” She dips her toes into a ceramic basin flled with warm water, essential oils, and thinly sliced cucumber. “This was my year of not giving myself the option to say ‘no’—saying ‘yes’ to everything,” she continues. “Not limiting myself. Sometimes, you stop yourself mentally before you even have the opportunity to try something.” So in the past year, the “yes” year, Dobrev signed on for an exhausting amount of recreational travel, bopping around Hawaii, Thailand, Mexico, Japan, and Australia. Her companion: her best friend Ashley, a professional masseuse—“who still has never to this day given me a massage,” clarifes Dobrev with a laugh. “So that’s not why we’re friends. She’s actually a rad chick. She’s up for anything all the time, and she’s one of the happiest people I know. Because she makes her own schedule, I can call her and be like, ‘You’re taking the next three weeks of.’” Tickets are procured with Dobrev’s frequent fier miles. But during her personal year of “yes,” she’s pondered a professional year of “no”: When it comes to making big career moves, Dobrev says, she treads much more carefully. “Someone


recently told me about the power of saying ‘no’ when it comes to work and career things,” she says. “You really have to be smart about not overextending yourself. I have a problem with that. But then I put too much on my plate and I’m not doing whatever I’m doing well.” But she was wooed by Luke Greenfeld’s action comedy Let’s Be Cops, which stars Damon Wayans Jr. and Jake Johnson as friends who get mixed up with mobsters after impersonating policemen. “I’m the girl,” explains Dobrev, who is the love interest of Wayans Jr. Her take on comedy? “It’s terrifying. I can get to an emotional place and start crying, but there’s pressure when you think you have to be funny,” she says. “There’s no form or method. You really have to be uninhibited and fearless.” Dobrev did an hours-long trip to L.A. for the frst chemistry read, and Wayans was an instant admirer. “She showed up, she showed of, and she left,” he says. “She’s a hustler.” The movie flmed in Atlanta, and Dobrev provided her outof-town colleagues with a comprehensive list of her favorite local restaurants and sights. “She was like a tour guide—a really cool one,” says Wayans. But he was most taken with her talent. “She really knows how to play a scene—she can balance the comedy with the fact that we have a romantic through-line,” he says. “And she’s down to do anything for a laugh.” Ilaria Urbinati, Dobrev’s longtime stylist and close friend, echoes the sentiment. “She’s single-handedly the most in-the-moment, spontaneous, adventurous person I know,” she says. “Her innate need to live life to the fullest afects everything she does, and it’s really contagious. She’s so open and inclusive, and she always makes you feel welcome. It’s really a rare thing.” A thick layer of polish is now coating Dobrev’s toes. “When I’m hungry, I get really moody,” she warns. “You don’t want to hang out with me. I have food in my purse at all times. I’m hypoglycemic, maybe. Self-diagnosed, mind you.” I propose dinner, and after wedging dry toes into sneakers, we hobble a few blocks downtown to the posh and spare Sushi of Gari, where Dobrev immediately orders two bowls of miso soup. The sweat has long since dried from our spandex, and Dobrev doesn’t seem to notice that we are criminally underdressed. Drinks, anyone? She proposes sake.

p r e v i o u s s p r e a d : t - s h i r t b y l e v i ’ s v i n ta g e c l o t h i n g . t h i s p a g e : d e n i m j a c k e t b y l e v i ’ s v i n ta g e c l o t h i n g , p l a i d s h i r t b y a . p . c . , ta n k t o p b y c a lv i n k l e i n u n d e r w e a r , o v e r a l l s b y o n e t e a s p o o n . h a i r : r ya n t r y g s ta d at s ta r w o r k s u s i n g W e l l a P r o f e s s i o n a l s . m a k e u p : j a k e b a i l e y at t h e wa l l g r o u p u s i n g L a n c ô m e . m a n i c u r i s t: j a c k i e s a u l s b e r y at k r a m e r + k r a m e r u s i n g b u r b e r r y. p h o t o a s s i s ta n t s : D a r r e n H a l l a n d B e n n y L e e . d i g i ta l t e c h : N i c k R a p a z . r e t o u c h i n g : b e s p o k e , n e w y o r k . s h o t at h u d s o n s t u d i o s , n e w y o r k .


“it still feels like i’m a fan, in a way. a lot of people are very cynical and very jaded, but i’m not there yet.” At this point, I’m wondering where the gussied-up girl whose every evening gown makes a best-dressed list is hiding. “It doesn’t feel real,” she says of her red carpet persona. “Because I don’t live in that world. When I go to those events, I’m in town specifcally for that, and then I leave later that night. I’ve maybe stayed for the after-party once, ever. It still feels like I’m a fan, in a way. A lot of people are very cynical and very jaded, but I’m not there yet.” According to Urbinati, “there isn’t anything she can’t pull of. She works a red carpet like nothing I’ve ever seen. She holds herself with a lot of confdence—she’s very self-assured for being so young. And she’s having fun! That makes all the diference.” And while Dobrev will gamely work a foor-grazing custom Donna Karan gown at the Emmys, which she was sewn into, or a paint-splattered J.Mendel pantsuit at the Teen Choice Awards, she still communicates something of a Cinderella vibe, like a young girl just trying all of this on for size. “I was not a girly-girl growing up,” confrms Dobrev, who was born in Bulgaria but moved to Toronto when she was two. “I had dance class and theater every single day in school, so I always had to wear something comfortable. I liked fashion, but I wasn’t very fashion-savvy. I didn’t always have all the best outfts. In fact, I remember looking in my closet and being like, ‘One day, I want everything to be new.’ For a while there, we actually shopped at The Salvation Army.” It’s safe to say that ended when she was cast as teen mom Mia Jones in the Canadian drama franchise Degrassi: The Next Generation, known for launching stars like Shenae Grimes and Drake. After high school,

Dobrev studied sociology at Ryerson University, but she withdrew in 2008 and moved to Los Angeles in pursuit of Hollywood. She landed The Vampire Diaries almost immediately, and by late 2009 was well on her way to becoming a household name after the pilot drew nearly fve million viewers. The tabloids took notice when she began dating Somerhalder, her co-star whose teen-idol looks belie his real age (35). Their relationship lasted from 2011 to 2013, but by oficial accounts, the breakup was amicable, and the Vampire Diaries set remains low on drama. “I just have a diferent approach to life and to relationships,” says Dobrev, taking a bite of sashimi. “I don’t like any kind of negativity. I try to be good to everyone, whether it’s a love, a friend, an ex…I’ll always try to treat people the way I want to be treated.” Case in point: “She always lets me have the last fry,” says Somerhalder. As Dobrev fnishes her thimble-sized mug of sake, she ponders what life will look like when she is divorced from the role that made her famous. “I always try to live in the now, but you’re always planning ahead, right?” she asks. “When I signed on [for The Vampire Diaries] at 20, I knew I’d be 26 when I got of. Not that I was afraid that I would be old, but.…” She pauses. “I love the show, but I don’t want to be defned by just the show.” Which brings us to a supporting role in 2015’s The Final Girls, which Dobrev describes as “a movie within a movie” about a girl (Taissa Farmiga) who is drawn into one of the flms that stars her late mother (Malin Akerman), an actress in ’80s-era slasher ficks. And in case

she gets bored, there’s maybe, just maybe, an empire of yoga studios with a fagship location in Atlanta. “It’s not ‘oficial-oficial’ yet,” warns Dobrev, “but I’ve been talking to a Realtor about a specifc property. With acting, I joke and call myself a high-class gypsy—for the rest of my life, I’ll probably be in one city for no more than four months. So I want to try it out frst in Atlanta where I can be there and watch over it, because I’m a micromanager.” As any Instagram follower knows, she’s already on intimate terms with inspirational maxims: Her feed is full of clip-art fles of helpful little phrases (“The greatest pleasure in life is doing what people say you cannot do,”) which she collects on her phone and disperses to her 2.6 million followers. “At frst, I used [Instagram] for the show,” she admits. “Then it became an addiction. You don’t realize how much you just want to share things, like a thought or a cool experience.” We exit the restaurant, and Dobrev maps out a route back to her hotel. She’s going to bed early, because all day tomorrow she’s attending a press event for Alcon Air Optix Colors contact lenses. As we part, she makes me promise to text her all the photos from the rock wall—not because she wants to confscate the evidence, but because she wants to share favorites with her fans. “It’s not that I’m a happier person—I’m just in a very diferent place,” she says of her post-“yes”-year mentality. “I’ve learned and grown so much. And that’s the craziest and scariest and coolest part about this whole thing: I’m a completely diferent person than I was a year ago, or fve years ago. Five years from now, I’ll be probably unrecognizable.”



f r o m l e f t: s w e at e r b y motel rocks, shirt by maison kitsunĂŠ, shorts by [ b l a n k n y c ] , b ac k p ac k b y o p e n i n g c e r e m o n y, t i g h t s b y w e l ov e c o l o r s ; j ac k e t b y w i l d f o x , s h i r t by emporio armani, skirt b y s a i n t l a u r e n t, b ac k p ac k b y m a n s u r gav r i e l , t i e b y m a r c j ac o b s , t i g h t s b y w e l ov e c o l o r s .


j ac k e t a n d backp ack b y m o s ch i n o, sh i r t by m o t e l r ocks, jea n s by d o l l h ouse, sh oes by d ie s e l ; op p osi te p age: j ac k e t by v er sace, sh i r t b y h o u se of h olla n d, j e a n s by a r ma n i jea n s, s h o e s a n d backp ack b y p ie r r e h a r dy, a ll j e we l r y by fa llon .




jack e t by m os c h i n o , shi rt by f re d p e r r y, short s by [ bl a n k n y c ] , shoe s by ji m m y c h o o , b ag by m arc by m a r c j ac o b s ; opposi t e page : s w e at e r b y house of hol l a n d , d r e s s and back pack b y k e n z o , shoe s by orl a k i e ly, s o c k s by w e l ove co l o r s .


jac k e t b y dollh ouse, dr ess by r ac h e l a n ton off, sh i r t by su n s p e l ; o p p osi te p age: fr om le f t: s we at sh i r t by h ouse of h o l l a n d , s h i r t by ti mo wei land, sh o r t s b y dollh ouse, backp ack by d k n y; s w eatsh i r t by h ouse of h o l l a n d , sh i r t by sa i n t la u r e n t, j e a n s by [bla n kn y c], ea r r in g s by fa llon .



fr o m l e f t: jacket by ch ea p m o n d ay, d r ess by a dea m, sh oes by t o p s h o p , ea r r i n gs by fa llon, n e c k l ac e by mi r i a m h a skell, so c k s b y w e lov e color s; dr e s s b y a dea m, sh i r t by ch e a p m o n day, sh oes by stella m c ca r t n e y, ea r r i n gs by fa llon, so c k s b y w e lov e color s.


s w e at e r b y w i l d f o x . h a i r : t o m o y u k i ta m u r a . m a k e u p : a k i k o owa d a . m a n i c u r i s t: a n g e l w i l l i a m s at o p u s beauty using dior vernis. p h o t o a s s i s ta n t s : a n d r e w harrington and will ta k a h a s h i . m o d e l s : j e n a at w i l h e l m i n a a n d v i ta at new york models. special t h a n k s t o va n d e r vo o r t s t u d i o , b r o o k ly n .


even c owg i rl s g e t t h e b lu e s

phot o g rap h e d b y chr i s t o p her fergus o n

st yle d b y el l e werl i n


j um p su i t b y d e n i m & s u p p ly r a l p h l a u r e n , b r a a n d n e c k l ac e b y lo st art; opposi t e page : jack e t by d- i d.


j ac k e t by lev i ’ s, dr ess by m a is o n s cotch , sca r f by a is h , n e c klace by bi ko; o p p o s it e p age: p i n a for e b y h u d s o n jea n s, top by va l e n t in a kova , sty li st’ s own e a r r i n gs, br acelet by ao k o s u , r i n g by th e la b by l a u r a b uson y.



jacket by den i m & supply r a lp h la ur en , sh irt by cult of i n di v i dua li ty, neck lace by p sy ch e jewelry; op p osi te p age: v est by lost a r t, top by ch elsea flower, jea n s by ba ldwi n denim, belt by ja mi n p uech, (from left) br acelet by merewif jewelr y, p y r a mi d ring by r edwolf, si lv er half moon r i n g by la dy grey, kn ot r i n g by la urel hill jewelr y, si lv er ri ng by the la b by la ur a busony.



shirt by d-id, corset by lost art, sk irt by louis vuitton, neck lace by we who prey; opposite page: coat by etro, sweater by sacai, sk irt by buffalo david bitton, bracelet by wanderluster, rings by the lab by laura busony.



ca p e b y va len ti n a kova , s h ir t b y si lv er jea n s co. , s h o r t s b y g-sta r , n ecklace b y t e m e r i ty jewelr y, t u r q u o is e wov en br acelet b y l u c y folk, a ll oth er b r ac e l e t s by aoko su; o p p o s it e p age: jacket by d - id , s h i r t by 7 for a ll m a n k in d , p ur se by lost a r t. h a ir : d a n a boy er at a r tmi x c r e at iv e. ma keup : sa ma n th a t r in h at kate r ya n I n c usi ng C H A N E L Q ua dr a Ey esh a dow. m a n ic u r i st: a n gel wi lli a ms at o p u s bea uty usi n g di or v e r n is . m odels: da p h n e at t h e s o c i ety ma n agemen t a n d a l ice at sup r eme m a n ag e m en t.



T h e s u n a lway s s h i n e s o n t h e s e C a l i f o r n i a c l a s s i c s .


gol DEN STA p h o t o g r a p h e d b y h i l a r y wa l s h . s t y l e d b y c h r i s t i n e b a k e r


t o p b y e qui p men t, s h o r t s b y ag. p r e v io u s p age LEFT: j ac k e t by lev i ’ s. p r e v io u s p age R I GH T: t - s h ir t by h a n es, j e a n s b y ca lv i n k l e in j ea n s.


t-shirt by hanes, j e a n s b y a .p .c .


b r a b y ca lv i n klei n u n d e r we a r , jea n s by h & m. o p p o s it e p age: sh or ts b y ca lv in klei n jea n s, s a n d a l s b y a di da s, s t yl is t ’ s own sh i r t.




jumpsuit by h&m. o p p o s i t e p ag e : j ac k e t a n d s h o r t s by topshop. makeup: erin lee s m i t h at at e l i e r . hair: whitney thomas. model: d e l i l a h at m m o d e l m a n ag e m e n t.


ThE ETERnaLLY cOOL JEnnY LEwIs hEads FROm ThE canYOn TO ThE cOsmOs On hER ThIRd sOLO aLbUm, ThE VOYaGER . bY mELIssa GIannInI


phOtOGRaphEd bY shanE mccaULEY.

stYLEd bY sEan knIGht


“i’m 38,” says jenny lewis, wearing a tracksuit and swirling a glass of barbera at a kitschy aspen-themed hotel bar near times square. “how did that happen?” Happily, there’s an answer to this question: She’s been busy, putting out Rilo Kiley and Jenny and Johnny records, touring with The Postal Service, writing songs for flms (Song One and Very Good Girls), and, most recently, birthing her third solo album, The Voyager—a sticky, glowing study of mortality and fertility, fltered through ’70s Laurel Canyon folk and ’90s alt-indie crunch with a side of Fleetwood Mac, and the most ambitious work of her career. Think of it as Blue for the social-media-malaise era, with lines like “Heard she’s having your baby/ and everything’s so amazing” propped up by lilting strings and life-afirming harmonies on album standout “She’s Not Me.” Not surprisingly, the record was conceived during a particularly dificult point in Lewis’s life—her band Rilo Kiley had broken up, she was sufering from severe insomnia, and she learned that her father, a traveling harmonica virtuoso from whom she’d been estranged since childhood, was dying of colon cancer. “He was a

truly gifted musician, kind of a savant—but not a part of my life,” she says. “Growing up, I saw him very infrequently, but I never had any hard feelings toward him because he was a pretty sweet guy.” During visits, Lewis discovered that she had six half-siblings. “A few days before my father passed, we were all in the same room together, passing a joint around,” she says with a laugh. “We all had the same sense of humor, and we got to share that with my dad, which was really special.” When she was a baby, Lewis’s mother and father performed together in a Las Vegas lounge act called Love’s Way. “My frst memory is of my babysitter, a female Elvis impersonator,” she says. Her parents divorced when she was three, and she moved with her mom and sister to the San Fernando Valley. Almost immediately, Lewis was “discovered” in a Van Nuys playground and began acting. Her most indelible role: Troop Beverly Hills’ Hannah Nefer. “When I was 19, I made a conscious decision to

stop acting,” she says. “I also think the industry made a conscious decision—they didn’t really want me anymore, and it coincided with my revelation that I was actually a songwriter.” As if on cue, Lewis’s phone buzzes with a text from Danielle Haim, a former member of her solo touring band, who’s in Spain to play the Primavera Sound festival: “You’re on TV!” she writes, sending along a fuzzy pic from her hotel room’s television of a young Jenny Lewis, circa an indeterminate role from the 1980s. It was while touring with The Postal Service that Lewis decided she wanted to get back into the studio. She’d heard good things about Ryan Adams’s PaxAm at Sunset Sound, so she DM’d him on Twitter. “I wanted someone to take the control away from me,” she says. “I had been recording on and of for four years, and loved all of what I was doing, but I needed someone to infuse the songs with some new energy.” The frst track they recorded was “She’s Not Me.” “That was take number two with a live band and vocal,” she says. “That’s not how people make records anymore, and it just felt…


PRE VIOUS SPRE AD : D RE SS by StE llA mccARtn E y, Sh OE S by VAlE n tIn O, SUn glASSE S by E lIzAbE th An D j AmE S, StylISt’S Own SOckS. th IS PAgE : tOP An D D RE SS by kE n zO, Sh OE S by n Ich OlAS kIRkwOOD . h AIR: bE th An y bRIll. mAkE UP: kIRIn bh Atty At StARwORkS ARtIStS USIn g n ARS.

a little magical.” They continued on, recording track after track, over the course of a week and a half. At the last minute, Beck sent a version of “Just One of the Guys,” the album’s frst single, which the two had worked on earlier. Rounding out the record are collaborations with her longtime partner (and Jenny and Johnny cohort) Johnathan Rice. As on past albums, Lewis worked with photographer Autumn de Wilde for The Voyager’s visual component. The two drove around the San Fernando Valley while listening to the songs and came up with a subplot that would play out on the cover and in the liner notes. “The last Rilo Kiley record [Under the Blacklight] was about the underbelly of Los Angeles and staying up too late and doing too much cocaine, so I wore hot pants for that entire album cycle,” explains Lewis. “This record didn’t feel like that; it felt…not necessarily more masculine, but a little bit more androgynous.” In the back of her closet she found a double-breasted white suit—a long-neglected freebie from Aritzia—and de Wilde asked her art director, Adam Siegel, to paint directly onto it. The result is a mystical revelation. Think: Nudie Cohn meets Lisa Frank on the side of a van. An image of Lewis wearing the suit graces the cover and complements the swagger and sleepy epiphanies of the songs inside. While many of the lyrics were written in the middle of the night at the height of her insomnia—“which I later found out is not what you’re supposed to do; you’re supposed to let go,” explains Lewis—she’s quick to point out that the record is not wholly dark. “There are a lot of diferent colors and feelings and questions,” she says. “But having gone through something like that, it changes you. Any traumatic event—not being able to sleep, your band breaking up—you come out on the other side.”


“I’m sitting like this,” explains Adelaide Clemens, throwing her head back and blinking at the ceiling, traces of last night’s heavy makeup still smudged around her eyes. “I could feel the tears coming, and I thought, ‘Why is this [happening] to me? I know what happens. I was there.’” Just hours before I meet her for cofee and gelato near her home in Los Angeles’ Los Feliz neighborhood, Clemens, 24, had been losing it at the second season premiere party for Rectify, the heart-wrenching cable drama about loss, in which she stars. You can’t blame her for sobbing over her own show. The cherubfaced Australian actress, a dead ringer for Michelle Williams, read the frst two scripts for the SundanceTV series a couple years ago and found it to be a soulful, cinematic riposte to the dregs of broadcast TV’s pilot season. She wanted it badly. It was the very thing, she believed, that would distance her from the terrorized girls she’d played in a few horror flms and help capitalize on her recent star turn as a young sufragette opposite Benedict Cumberbatch in the HBO period drama Parade’s End. To get that part, a determined Clemens showed up to an audition having been rejected several times before—including “a fnal no” from the director over Skype—in full Edwardian garb. “I can be crazy when I want it,” she says. Rectify came easier but has demanded more. “With each project, I want to raise the bar,” says Clemens, and it appears that she has. Critics have been quick

RECTIFY STAR ADELAIDE CLEMENS MAINTAINS CONTROL (EXCEPT FOR THAT ONE TIME SHE MET LEO DICAPRIO). BY DENISE MARTIN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY GUY LOWNDES

A US SI E to single out her sensitive work as a conficted small-town church girl who befriends a death row inmate returned to freedom after his conviction is overturned. Series creator Ray McKinnon, of Deadwood fame, explains that Clemens immediately had “the strange ability to play both intelligent and guileless,” but the actress admits her character can sometimes feel alien. She licks chocolate gelato from the corners of her mouth and laughs: “Ray’s big thing with me is, ‘Remember the naïveté!’” A born go-getter, a 14-year-old Clemens answered a newspaper ad calling for budding playwrightperformers to submit one-act plays. She wrote “a weird one” about a woman with a house full of potted plants. “They were like her alarm systems. Only she knew the way from her bedroom to the bathroom,” recalls Clemens. The piece won the top prize and she got to perform it at Sydney’s historic Stables Theatre, which led to an agent and a steady stream of work on several Australian TV shows. At 19, she moved to Los Angeles, where she began scoring small parts in highprofle projects like X-Men Origins: Wolverine, HBO’s The Pacifc, the Tim Roth series Lie to Me, and, nearest to her heart, fellow Aussie Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby, where she cashed in on a lifelong dream to meet Leonardo DiCaprio. Or did she? “I exaggerate a lot,” says Clemens, before plunging headlong into a cringe-worthy memory of making eyes at him from afar during a lunch break on set; Clemens was cast as the gossip who seduces Tobey Maguire’s Nick and didn’t have any scenes with DiCaprio. So when she saw him she promptly sat on her plate of food. “I couldn’t breathe. All the air escaped

me. Food went everywhere,” she says, blushing even now. I ask how DiCaprio reacted, and she thinks for a minute: “My adrenaline was running so high at that point, I don’t even remember if we ever said hi!” Clemens is usually a lot braver than that. She loves auditioning (“What? It’s 15 minutes a day I get to act,” she says) and appears unafraid of rejection. When she’s not flming, she indulges an insatiable wanderlust, and in fact, just returned from a nine-day road trip with a journalist friend through the South, where she spent most of her time hanging out with locals at the neighborhood bowling alleys and Walmarts. She shrugs of my dismay when she mentions how she likes to run the nine-mile trip from Los Feliz to Beverly Hills for haircuts and errands (“More to see,” she says) and enthuses over a recent excursion to the historic Watts Towers. Unsurprisingly, her sense of adventure once fueled aspirations of becoming an investigative reporter. “Unfortunately, the media in Australia is really warped,” she says. Clemens has two independent flms in the can—The Automatic Hate, which she describes as “a creepy comedy about kissing cousins,” with Joseph Cross, and the 1970s-set rural thriller The World Made Straight—and she’s signed for another, co-starring Natalie Dormer and Zachary Quinto. That one is waiting on funding, but Clemens isn’t exactly sitting around until then. She’s headed to a fction writers’ workshop in Chesapeake, Maryland. “I play pretend for a living,” she says, getting ready to walk home. “I try to take it all with a grain of salt. And I don’t really do bored well.”


jac k e t b y e l iz ab e t h an d jam e s, sh irt b y paig e de n im , rin g s (f ro m po in t e r) b y sm it h + m ara, l o re n st e wart, se t h i c o u t u re , e l isab e t h b e l l . st y l e d b y z o e c o st e l l o . h air: cam pb e l l m cau l e y at so l o art ist s u sin g we l l a pro f e ssio n al s. m ak e u p: f ab io l a at t rac e y m at t in g ly. sh o t at t h e f o rg e , l o s an g e l e s.


GONE G


IrL r e av e y at br ya n b a n t r y. m a k e u p : le sl i e l op e z at th e wa ll g r ou p .

a l l c l ot h i ng b y p r a d a . s t y l i st: r ac h a e l wa n g . h a i r : h e l en

If The LefTovers ’ MargareT QuaLLey can survIve The rapTure, MakIng a naMe for herseLf In hoLLywood shouLd be a breeze. by Maura kuTner waLTers. phoTographed by davId shaMa Margaret Qualley has the graceful movements of a ballerina (she studied with dancing legends Jean-Pierre Bonnefoux and Patricia McBride) and the fawless skin of a china doll (a genetic blessing passed down from mom, Andie MacDowell). She sits at a booth at Frankies Spuntino in Manhattan’s West Village, hands demurely in her lap, wearing a vintage fower-print dress and black patent leather heels, a gift from Miuccia Prada. Ladylike is the 19-year-old’s default setting, but when pressed on the limits of her elegance, she leans in close. “I’m the biggest klutz on earth. I always have bruises on my legs,” she says, revealing several mean-looking purple blotches on her shins. “I also have horrible road rage. That’s why I had to leave L.A.” An act this convincing suggests Qualley learned the Hollywood game early, but she was actually raised on a 3,000-acre ranch in Montana, and later in Asheville, North Carolina. MacDowell and her ex-husband, former model Paul Qualley, eschewed watching television, so the Qualley children (older sister Rainey is an actress and singer) staged concerts in the living room and rode horses for fun. And, of course, there was dancing. She studied at the North Carolina School of the Arts and spent summers with the American Ballet Theatre. “Ballet was my whole life. There was no other option in my mind,” she says. “Then I was ofered an apprenticeship at the North Carolina Dance Theatre. I had accomplished this huge goal and then realized I didn’t really want it anymore. I went through an identity crisis at 16.” The soul-searching teenager instead moved to New York City by herself, signed up for improv classes, and found another calling. “It was the frst acting class I’d ever taken, and I just knew I had to do it,” she explains.

In 2012, Qualley decamped for Los Angeles to fnd an agent and begin auditioning. After landing a small role in Gia Coppola’s Palo Alto, she heard Peter Berg was directing an HBO pilot for Lost creator Damon Lindelof, based on The Leftovers, Tom Perotta’s 2011 book in which millions of people vanish after a rapture-like event. “At frst everyone thought I was too green because I had never worked before, but I loved the role; I didn’t want to miss out,” she says. Her chemistry read with Berg involved a set of impromptu pushups and repeatedly shouting out the C-word. “I can’t even say that word,” she whispers, covering her mouth. Two weeks later, she booked the part. Qualley brings restrained rage to the role of Jill Garvey, a former straight-A student turned high school loner, whose police chief father (Justin Theroux) struggles to keep order in an unraveling town, while her mother (Amy Brenneman) joins a chain-smoking, vow-of-silence cult, and her classmates turn to various distractions—religion, sex, drugs— to cope with the inexplicable event. “Obviously, I haven’t had the same life experience as Jill, but I know what it’s like to feel like the world is rushing by while you’re just standing there,” she says. Just standing there, as it turns out, is a luxury Qualley can’t aford these days—one last sip of cofee and her publicist steps in to whisk her of to a dress ftting for The Leftovers’ New York premiere. “I really think I might faint on the red carpet,” she says. “I hate getting my photo taken, and I have no idea what I’m going to wear.” Whatever she chooses, when the fashbulbs start to pop, you can bet there won’t be a shin bruise in sight.


It’s easy to spot Elly Jackson accidentally passing the marketcafé where we’ve planned to meet, because one doesn’t often encounter women with feryhued Tilda Swinton-meets-David Byrne haircuts in Manhattan’s TriBeCa neighborhood on weekday afternoons. But the British synthpop star, who performs under the name La Roux, doesn’t get too far down the block before realizing her error, and soon enough, she’s sliding into her seat at one of the café’s bistro tables. Jackson is in town to perform at the Governors Ball Music Festival, where she will test out songs from her sophomore album, Trouble in Paradise—out this month, fve years after her self-titled debut. For both the musician and her fans, it’s been a long time coming. “The label basically said they wanted the record to be delivered in May of 2012,” says Jackson, pushing up the sleeves on her billowy, kitschyprinted vintage blouse and propping her elbows on the table. “And when we started deleting entire arrangements in May of 2012, we knew that wasn’t going to happen.” She laughs a bit at this, then grows serious: “We’re not quick because we’re ambitious.” The “we” that comprises Team La Roux has changed since recording her frst album. At that time, the act included producer Ben Langmaid, who often stayed behind the scenes but had signifcant infuence over the sound. Langmaid and Jackson parted ways after beginning work

five years and one personnel change later, la roux re-emerges. By mallory rice. photographed By samantha casolari

p aradi f ou nd


hai r: he l e n re avey. mak eu p: t i f f an y pat t o n at b a- reps . s h o t at l et t h ere b e n e o n , n e w yo rk

se on Paradise. Since then, she’s taken over the name as a solo act, and brought on producer Ian Sherwin to see her sophomore efort through. This change was not without its complications, and became the subject of two NME articles in the lead up to her most recent album’s release. Refreshingly, Jackson is not afraid to talk about it. She pegs the split to creative diferences. “When you’re young, you always think you’re going to do everything the same as you do it at that present time,” she explains. “As time went on, I realized that the way we were doing things was really

restricting. And I felt myself leaning toward [becoming] a type of artist that I didn’t want to be. I felt slightly pushed in that direction, because we had a song like ‘Bulletproof.’ I never wanted to have a hit like that.” It’s not often that an artist regrets having her work received exceptionally well, both commercially and critically, and Jackson is quick to clarify: “I’m still so proud of ‘Bulletproof,’” she says. “But I don’t ever want to go anywhere near as close to a type of pop music that I don’t like again.” And on Paradise, Jackson seems to have landed, fully and fnally, in the zone. The nine tracks on the album, especially the defant “Silent Partner” (which she claims is in reference to the vocal troubles that sidelined her from singing for at least a year, not Langmaid) and the peppy “Uptight Downtown,” still sound like what one has come to expect from La Roux, only a little more pared down and, paradoxically, funkier. Paradise represents a new phase of musical growth for Jackson, which she happily credits to her positive dynamic with Sherwin. La Roux fans will be relieved to know that her signature happyyet-aching writing style has made the transition to La Roux 2.0, as well. “I usually don’t say this in public, but it’s like everything has got to be a bit, ‘fuck you, fuck of,’” she says with a grin. “It’s really the only way I know how to write.”


SURF’S UP

FRom SleePy SeaSide townS to bUStling URban centeRS, SUnShiney Rock dUo beach day aRe oUt to have FUn, FUn, FUn. by melody laU. PhotogRaPhed by JeSS baUmUng

Kimmy Drake and Skyler Black are lost. The duo, who make up the Hollywood, Florida surf-pop band Beach Day, have been driving up and down the same street in downtown Toronto for 20 minutes, searching for a cofee shop. Upon arrival, they ofer their sincerest apologies, then make a beeline to the barista. “We absolutely need cafeine, two or three times a day!” confesses Drake. Toronto, where the band is performing at the annual North by Northeast Festival, is much bigger than their “adorable little ‘50s beach town,” as Drake describes it. “There are not a ton of musicians—it’s mostly old people,” says Black. “We actually met at a show in a diferent town. I saw Kimmy playing guitar and thought, ‘Whoa, she’s really good!’” Drake and Black have become accustomed to traveling in order to get their music out into the world. They spent the better part of last year touring their debut album, Trip Trap Attack, and then followed that up with a 21-hour excursion to Detroit to record Native Echoes, out this month. “We did the frst half of the album in November of last year and then we went back in January during the polar vortex,” recalls Drake, shivering at the memory. For a band whose wardrobe refects their natural habitat—Drake wears a foral crop top and Black sports a thrift store tee with SPLASHHH scrawled across his chest—the frigid environment was especially cruel. “We stepped out of the car into this negative-13-degree weather and I started crying,” remembers Black.

“I had never experienced that level of cold, and I didn’t have a jacket.” Thankfully, producer Jim Diamond loaned him some layers during the band’s time at Ghetto Recorders, where several of Detroit’s more recent classics (including the frst two White Stripes albums) were recorded. Native Echoes is a rollicking extension of the band’s previous work—a swirling combination of Nuggets-referencing rock and Motown-esque melodies, the kind of songs you’ll fnd yourself humming for days. But Drake is quick to note that the new album represents how much they’ve grown as a band. “The frst record was just, ‘Let’s make dancey surf music,’ and that’s what we did and I love it,” she says. “This one is more personal— I gave everything to this record, lyrically and musically.” There is a noticeable succinctness to Native Echoes, in Drake’s compact melodies and the reverb-drenched aesthetic that washes over the entire record. Alongside sugary-sweet earworms are sincere tracks that examine perceptions of beauty (“Pretty”) and feeling out of place (“Lost Girl”). With such rich developments in their sound, Beach Day have undoubtedly matured, but that won’t change Drake’s life motto: “If it’s not fun, then I don’t want to do it,” she declares, lifting her cofee cup as if giving a toast. “I will have fun anywhere!”


SEA CHANG

CAlGAry-borN SAilor, dANCEr, ANd SiNGEr-SoNGwritEr KiESzA HAS morE HypHENS tHAN SHould bE HumANly poSSiblE. by CEliA SHAtzmAN. pHotoGrApHEd by SuNNy SHoKrAE

It’s pretty hard to turn heads at Freemans, New York City’s Lower East Side restaurant known for its taxidermy-heavy décor that could have been plucked from a Wes Anderson flm set, and the eccentric clientele to match. But Kiesza (née Kiesa Rae Ellestad) does just that, thanks to her old-Hollywood style and Girl Scout demeanor. Once inside, she rushes over to coo at a fussy baby—add infant whisperer to her impressive CV, which also includes ballerina, fashion designer, opera composer, visual artist, capoeira martial artist, and tall ship sailor. But soon Kiesza, 25, will be best known for her music. Her frst single, “Hideaway,” an addictive dance-pop number, shot to the top of the charts after its release in the U.K. Captured in a single take on the streets of Williamsburg, the song’s video is evidence of a decade of classic dance training and displays a healthy dose of appreciation for throwback hip-hop video tropes. Shot by her brother, cinematographer Blayre Ellestad, it’s been viewed more than 44 million times since February. “I love the sounds of the ’90s,” says Kiesza. “I didn’t want to go straight-up back there, but I’m blending them with more modern sounds. I love fusing things—in fashion, music, everything.” Fusion is the perfect word to describe the polymath, down to her signature hairstyle, a sort of glam mohawk. “It’s 1940s from the front and punk from the side,” says Kiesza as she delicately delves into her black bean burger with a knife and fork to preserve her red lipstick. Though she may already look like a pop culture icon, Kiesza is admittedly clueless when it comes to celebrity gossip. “I was on a TV show in Canada, and they were drilling me about the Kardashians— I had no idea about any of them,” she says. “I was like, can you just ask me about space or genetics?” Obsessed with science since she was little, Kiesza is more likely to curl up with an academic journal than the remote. “It’s just so fascinating what can be done,” she says. “I mean, they’re fguring out how to regrow teeth, just by doing an electric shock with a stem cell.” Born in Calgary, Canada— sometimes described as the country’s Midwest, which would explain her unfailing politeness—

Kiesza grew up in a creative family. Raised by songwriter parents, she learned piano as a kid and enrolled in ballet classes at three. She expected to become a professional ballerina until a knee injury sidelined her at 15. Instead, she decided to follow her second passion: sailing. Kiesza joined the Royal Canadian Navy at 16 on a whim, thinking boot camp would be fun. There, she won the Top Shot award after firing 15 bullets into a one-inch hole. When the army attempted to recruit her as a sniper, she turned it down and learned code-breaking instead.

b e a ch day : h a ir : a n n a b a rs e ghian at judy inc. m akeup: shaw na le e a t j udy i nc. o n ki es z a : c o a t b y c a rven, s we a t er a n d p a n t s b y issa , earrings by third crow n, kiesza’s ow n sho es . s t y l i s t : s o la ng e fra nkl i n. ha i r : a nd rew fi t z s i m o n s a t a b t p. ma ke u p: m in m in m a us ing chanel. sho t at m o rg ens t ern’s fi nes t i c e crea m, new yo r k .

In the navy, Kiesza learned how to play guitar. “They would jam on the ship,” she explains. “The first day I picked up a guitar I wrote a little folk song. I would sing people to sleep at night.” She served part-time throughout high school and then went on to study music at Selkirk College, before earning a scholarship to attend the Berklee College of Music in Boston. During one of her frequent trips to New York, Kiesza met producer Rami Samir Afuni. “I was a folk singer and he was a hip-hop producer, and we were both trying to get into mainstream songwriting,” she says. “We were so different that when we came together we had a unique sound. Eventually we stumbled on ‘Hideaway.’ I realized then that this was me; I’d found myself.”


AUGUST 2014


I L L U S T R AT E D B Y H AT T I E S T E WA R T

CU LT UR E CL UB EDITED BY MALLORY RICE


LOV E LET TER

ROBERT ALTMAN (AND HIS MERRY GANG)

EXHIBIT

Think of Robert Altman and a sea of familiar faces comes to mind. Lily Tomlin’s side eye and toothy laugh, Elliott Gould’s sullen drollness, a spindly Sally Kell erman, Lili Taylor’s readied stare, and Tim Robbins’s bulbous features set of by a furrowed brow. Ever the genrebusting director, Altman’s fi vedecades-long film and tele vision career was marked not just by his countercultural resolve and barbed attitude toward Hollywood , but also by his pioneering approach to the ensemble cast . Included in the Altman-esqu e style are other recognizable tenets, like converging and divergin g story lines (Academy Award-nomi nated Short Cuts, for inst ance) and protracted shots that map the idiosyncratic nature of a part icular world—like Nashville’s mus ical account of the country mus ic business amid a presidential primary and The Player’s eigh tminute opening scene plot ting Hollywood’s chaotic studio system. In each case, overlapping and often improvised dialogue is rife, an unorthodox practice at the time, which caused Altman to be fired from his first feature, 1968’s Countdown. All’s well that end s well: Getting canned eventually inspired the director to establish a new sonic landscape for recording and mixing in American cinema—as evin ced two years later by his classic Palme d’Or-winning antiwar satire, MASH, and later, his talky gamblin g buddy

comedy, California Split. A fitting tribute, then, is Altm an, a new documentary about the American auteur, which mim ics his trademark ensemble app roach, collaging home videos, rare interviews, and reflections from Altman’s family with appeara nces by some of his muses. It’s hec tic, sure, but so was his work. Directed by Ron Mann and appearing on EPIX on August 6, the film is an imm ersive and multilayered portrait of the Kansas City-born filmmake r. While Altman had a reputati on for being a grump, his acto rs adored him, and his influence on fi lmmakers today endures—perhaps no more obvious than in the ensemb le-heavy work of Paul Thomas Anderso n, who appears in the docume ntary, and who memorialized She lley Duvall’s delightfully exact turn as Olive Oyl in Altman’s 1980 Popeye in Punch Drunk Love, his 200 2 ofbeat romantic drama. In it, Anderso n uses Duvall’s dulcet serenade, “He Needs Me,” which despite Popeye’ s critical and box ofice flop, remains one of those enchantingly Altman-e sque cinematic moments. Odes like Anderson’s cement Altman as the father of independent film, and also remind us that without Altm an, who insisted on peopling his mov ies with a naturalistic sundry of cha racters, American cinema would lack that chaotic mien, and those films that feel like old friends reuniting at a party. DURGA CHEW-BOSE

ADLER GUERRIER: FORMULATING A PLOT MIAMI IS A CITY THAT MEANS MANY DIFFERENT THINGS TO DIFFERENT PEOPLE—ASK ONE PERSON AND HE MAY GUSH ABOUT THE EXCESSES OF SOUTH BEACH; ANOTHER MAY HAVE MEMORIES OF A TIGHT-KNIT CUBAN SUBURB. THE ARTIST AND “URBAN WANDERER” ADLER GUERRIER HAS TAKEN PARTICULAR INTEREST IN THE “MAGIC CITY” AND ALL THE VARIOUS FORMS IT’S TAKEN DURING THE PAST 15 YEARS. THIS MONTH, THE RECENTLY REVAMPED PÉREZ ART MUSEUM MIAMI WILL EXHIBIT HIS OBSERVATIONS OF THE PLACE VIA GUERRIER’S PHOTOGRAPHS, PRINTS, VIDEOS, AND MIXED-MEDIA INSTALLATIONS AS WELL AS A NEW “ARCHITECTURAL INTERVENTION.” AT A TIME WHEN MIAMI SEEMS TO INCREASINGLY BE ON THE LIPS OF THE CREATIVE SET, THE SHOW IS AN OPPORTUNITY TO VIEW IT THROUGH THE LENS OF A NATIVE’S POINT OF VIEW. JESSICA SPENCER


OBJEC TS OF BEAUT Y

READ ALL ABOUT IT

SIONS THE LIGHT VI ster g on a gig po in rk wo s wa "I an s wa at th ago a few years ing. a tarot read of n io at tr ck illus sitive feedba po of t lo a I got someone d an s rd ca on the and at I continue suggested th t deck. ro ta ll fu a turn it into tarot deck to I wanted this t om others ou fr be different at wh me so ted there—crea ctive ider's perspe from an outs es Eads am –J ." in g lookin

robert altman: images provided by epix. garfunkel & oates: images provided by ifc. adler guerrier: images provided by pérez art museum miami.

thinking of dipping a toe ol? in the fortune-telling po these artist-designed tarot decks will ensure that you start off with the best possible energy.

THE WILD UNKNOWN "My idea was to make a deck without people in it, one that was teeming with wild nature, bursts of light, and deep, dark shadows." –Kim Krans

FLORIOGRAPHY de from "My deck is ma es and ag im of s ge colla I have at th s nt me docu years of collected over search. Each genealogical re of my own ce card is a pie and my own family history covering my journey of dis cards tend ancestors. The of nostalgia lot a up ing br to y for the lit ta en im nt se and ares Lin na –A r." viewe

EROTEME "I wanted it to be qu ite simple grap hically and concentrat e on the ac tual looks, so I used a lot of Bauhaus re ferences in order to ac hiev All the geom e that. etric shap es have meani ng, of cour se, and are pa rt of the tarot symbo lis –Oleg Mitro m." fanov

Q&A

GARFUNKEL & OATES

K AT E

R IK I

Riki Lindhome and Kate Micucci, better known as the comedy duo Garfunkel & Oates, make ukuleleand guitar-driven folkrock about ex-boyfriends, awkward sex, and the annoying self-satisfaction of pregnant women. On August 7, they take their musical stylings to an eponymously named series on IFC. But frst, they talk with David Walters about an early meet-cute and their warm relationship with Daryl Hall’s better half. The show will appeal to fans of HBO’s Flight of the Conchords. Was that an infuence? Riki: We love Flight of the Conchords. Our show is like that, but a lot more sexual. Like an überfeminine, hypersexual Flight of the Conchords. Kate: We’re also infuenced by ’80s music

and Broadway musicals. Riki: And the Muppets! We love the Muppets.

Riki: We were also really worried about getting sued.

How did you meet? Riki: We would see each other at auditions for very specifc roles: aliens, fairies, elves. We fnally talked one night at the UCB Theatre in L.A. Kate: We just hit it of. We were both on dates, and we ended up hanging out after the show. The guy I was with asked, “You like that girl more than you like me, don’t you?” and I was like, “Yeeaahh….”

Have Art or John gotten in touch? Kate: We haven’t heard from Art. Riki: John’s actually in the second episode! Kate: We opened for John at a show in Southern California! We did “Maneater” with him. I played a trombone solo, and Riki did a striptease from one dress to another equally demure dress.

Were you always set on the name Garfunkel & Oates? Kate: At frst we thought it might be too confusing. But thank God we went with it, because a lot of amazing things have happened because of it. The frst show we ever booked was only because the club thought we were really Art Garfunkel and John Oates.

The show features some hilarious guest stars: Tig Notaro, Anthony Jeselnik, T.J. Miller, even Ben Kingsley. Riki: We got so lucky to get the most talented people we know. Kate: It’s really nice to involve your friends in your project. That’s a nice thing to say. Riki: We’re just being modest for this interview.


cyber spAce

fi nk , k im be rly i nT Tr eATm co -f ou nd er i

inside the box Kimberly Fink has a go-to way of describing what it feels like to fnd out that you have survived cancer: “It’s like if your house caught on fre and you escaped and then went across the street and just stared at your burned-down house,” she says. A fellow survivor shared that metaphor with Fink shortly after her fnal chemotherapy treatment for endometrial cancer, and it resonated so much that it inspired her to re-evaluate the way she had been living her life before getting sick. “I just was not passionate about what I was doing before,” says the former prop stylist. While attempting to fgure out a more meaningful way

1

to spend her time, Fink remembered an experience she had when she was frst diagnosed. “I wanted to buy some cool stuf that would help me stay positive,” she says. “And I just couldn’t fnd anything that I thought was really well designed and good quality, and it just shocked me.” Soon after, she saw the work that a friend had done for an established subscription box company and had an epiphany. “My frst reaction was like, ‘Oh my gosh, I would’ve loved to have received something like this when I was going through my treatment.’” She called a childhood friend to tell her the idea, and got a similar reaction. “She told me that it would have helped her to help me, too. She was like, ‘I felt so powerless and I didn’t know what to do for you.’”

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The two are now cofounders of TREATMiNT, a subscription service that does what Birchbox does for beauty products, but instead comes full of beautiful items meant to inspire and soothe those undergoing treatment for cancer. One box, for example, came packed with a piece of artwork and a tote bag printed with inspiring quotes, a fower-covered journal by Rife Paper Co., and Go Be Lovely brand coconut milk and mango soap, among other items. “When you’re in the middle of your treatment there aren’t a lot of people around, because they don’t know how to continue that support,” says Fink. But thanks to her and co-founder Wendy Nichols, there is now one more way to send positive vibes. MR

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The sound of a hand gliding across a scale of wind chimes. A single dove released into the sky. Then, suddenly, a full round of applause. This is what I imagine happened when Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears walked hand in hand onto the red carpet at the 2001 American Music Awards in what has gone down in Internet history as one of the greatest denim moments of all time. The two pop stars, then a starry-eyed couple, wore coordinated washed-denim ensembles—Spears zipped into a form-ftting strapless gown and Timberlake in a patchwork suit with matching hat. The duo took the “American” part of the awards ceremony’s title seriously, and that red carpet moment will live online forever. Blogs like “Old Loves” (which photographically chronicles celebrity relationships past and present) and decade-themed style Tumblrs exist because the best nostalgia is the kind that simultaneously warms your heart and sends a shiver up your spine. We’ve all had moments like the denim-coated one captured between Britney and Justin all those years ago. Our own bad outfts, botched relationships, and past notions of “cool” live on in Facebook albums and lookbook.nu accounts, when once we could forget our daring ensembles of the past by simply avoiding dusty photo albums. So while fipping through this denimdevoted issue, aspire not to duplicate runway trends but to create something that will cause you to look back and smile—or even better, blush.

kimberly fnk: photographed by kimi selfridge. hair and makeup: tifany patton at ba-reps. cyber space: illustrated by natalia swarz.

hAze l cills, repo rTing live from The inTer neT


READ NYLON ON YOUR BONUS VIDEOS + MUSIC + INTERVIEWS

photographed by kristin vicari.

AVAILABLE ON THE ITUNES NEWSSTAND


SHELF-HELP

august is serving up two game-changing, new(ish) authors and one of literature's foremost champions of the fairy tale.

by Yelena Akhtiorskaya (Riverhead)

It's 1993 in the Eastern European immigrant enclave of Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, where the Nasmertovs—the Ukrainian Jewish clan at the heart of Yelena Akhtiorskaya's debut novel Panic in a Suitcase—now reside. Their matriarch has been diagnosed with cancer, so her prodigal poet son Pasha, the final holdout in their native Odessa, has come to New York for an extended visit (a trip his relatives hope will finally convince him to stay for good). Comically clumsy attempts at bonding ensue, endeavors that are flawed and strange in the way only a family can make them. Meanwhile, Pasha dabbles in the expat literary scene, but still finds himself disenchanted with his kin's new home. Fast-forward to 2008: Pasha's mother has died and he remains in Odessa, now a local literary lion. His son will soon marry and his American niece Frida, in an act of identity-seeking, insists on traveling to Odessa alone for the event. The trip becomes a counterpoint to Pasha's experience of New York—weird and life-altering in ways unanticipated. Panic joins a vast canon of immigrant tales, but its prose truly sets it apart, each sentence bursting with such striking imagery, syntactic complexity, and poeticism that it would do its own protagonist proud. LISA MISCHIANTI

Q&A

BAD FEMINIST

by Roxane Gay (Harper Perennial) This year, the writer Roxane Gay will be the literary equivalent of one of those bands that is slightly bewildered to receive a Best New Artist award, when, really, they've been doing their thing for years already. A familiar name within indie fiction circles, Gay is poised to hit the big time thanks to two new books: An Untamed State (a novel that was released in May) and a collection of essays, Bad Feminist, out this month. The latter comprises 30-odd pieces in which she grapples with substantial topics like sexuality, race, and gender equality, often through the lens of whichever pop culture phenomenon has her riled up on that particular day. (Django Unchained, Girls, and Chris Brown all feature.) One of the most fun things about being a Roxane Gay reader is that you get to watch so many of her opinions take form online. It can also be distracting: I'd have finished this review 30 minutes earlier had I not been taking breaks to follow her live-tweeting an episode of Barefoot Contessa. MR

KATE BERNHEIMER We catch up with writer, scholar, and magical fiction aficionado Kate Bernheimer about her latest book, How a Mother Weaned Her Girl From Fairy Tales. MR Let's talk about the title: Do you feel like fairy tales don't get due respect? The title is borrowed in part from a Russian fairy tale that very few people know, called "How a Husband Weaned His Wife From Fairy Tales." Basically, there's a bad wife who's begging her husband for fairy tales, and he pretty much literally beats the desire out of her. But yes, as much as fairy tales are popular in TV, film, and a lot of fiction, from literary to mainstream, it's still acceptable to disparage them in American culture. There's this disconnect: I think that we love them but people are afraid of them, somehow. The title is definitely a response to that. When did you become interested in the form? I've always been in love with fairy tales, since reading at the public library as a child. But it really wasn't until my early 20s that I started to think—this sounds silly to say, but for me it was a revelation—that they're real stories. They're an art form.

If readers want to explore more writers working in the genre, who would you suggest? I would first send people right back to the Grimms. Maria Tatar is a Harvard professor of Germanic languages and literatures and also mythology and folklore, and she has an amazing translation called The Grimm Reader. It's an exquisite, plain translation and what's considered to be the best edition of their stories. Lots of adults lose access to the sense of imagination needed to write fairy tales as they mature. Has it been difficult to stay in that frame of mind? I think it was a Surrealist who said—I'm paraphrasing, very poorly—that one of the great tragedies of growing up is that you have the wonder wrung out of you. I think that people have access to something unknown in childhood that is more frightening, perhaps, to adults. But I think I've maintained access to that naturally.

illustrated by malin bergström. kate bernheimer illustrated by kelly shami.

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THE ONE I LOVE

At its start, Charlie McDowell’s The One I Love appears to be a pretty standard indie flm about a charming couple and their quest for meaning in the everyday. Elisabeth Moss and Mark Duplass play Sophie and Ethan, a pair whose relationship problems have landed them on either end of a therapist’s couch. Their shrink, played by just the right kooky actor— McDowell’s stepdad Ted Danson—suggests that the two take a weekend vacation to reconnect, and recommends a getaway just outside of town that seems to have done the trick for other clients. One immediately wonders if their doc is getting a kickback from the inn for sending so many lovers in peril. But that’s not quite the shadiness that Sophie and Ethan

THE CONGRESS

Visually arresting and intellectually ambitious, Ari Folman's whacked-out look at the future of moviemaking shows flashes of brilliance before going off the rails. The second English-language film from the Israeli director, after the excellent Waltz With Bashir (2008), The Congress is set in a near-future world where the actress Robin Wright (a fictionalized version of the real thing, played by Wright herself) strikes a devil's bargain with the malevolent movie studio that launched her career. Wright signs over the rights

discover when, after exploring the grounds of the vacation house, they realize that they are not the only houseguests. To say any more would be to spoil the fun of McDowell’s debut flm (which feels impressively confdent for a frst go at directing a feature)—the inventiveness of which makes it a ball to watch even when things take a turn for the existential. MALLORY RICE

MAGIC IN THE MOONLIGHT

WHAT IF

Life hasn't been too kind to Wallace (Daniel Radcliffe) as of late. After walking in on his girlfriend and their anatomy professor, and subsequently dropping out of medical school, he deduces that "love is stupid monkeys dancing in a slapstick hurricane." But, in true romcom fashion, his perception changes when he meets Chantry (Zoe Kazan) at his friend Allan's (Adam Driver) Toronto house party. There's an instant connection between the two, as their conversation

to, well, herself, so the studio can create a digital clone to be used in near perpetuity. The virtual (and less expensive) Wright will become the studio's new star, while the actual Wright agrees never to act again. That this scenario is less sci-fi than one might assume—similar digitization projects are being used by Hollywood today—is one of the most fascinating aspects of The Congress. Unfortunately, as the film delves deeper and moves from live action into full animation, it becomes a bizarre, meandering fever dream. RACHEL DEAHL

somehow naturally flows from fool's gold to Elvis's corpse. Just one problem: She has a long-term boyfriend. The two quickly become best friends, Wallace's love unacknowledged and unrequited. Matters complicate further when Chantry's boyfriend relocates to Dublin and her sister moves in on Wallace. What if this guy and girl can't just be friends? What if it's more complicated than that? YASMEEN GHARNIT

Set in the South of France during the 1920s, Woody Allen's new film debuts his latest muse, Emma Stone, as Sophie, a young Kalamazoo, Michigan native and supposed spirit medium serving as the in-house soothsayer for a wealthy family enrapt by her alleged otherworldly abilities. Skilled magician and staunch rationalist Stanley (Colin Firth), who has a proud history of debunking faux psychics, is enlisted by an old friend to prove Sophie a fraud. But Stanley soon finds himself rather baffled by some of Sophie's "impressions," and—in line with Allen's signature scripted marriages—experiences serious romantic chemistry with her. Warm, fuzzy feelings cause Stanley to question his sober worldview, and viewers, too, run the risk of developing a new appreciation for life's magic. LISA MISCHIANTI


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