new europe

new europe new europe magazine by mamaison

savoring style, character and luxury

Michael Palin enjoys the New Europe unknown to most travelers

1 + plus fashion Yohji Yamamoto mamaison | new europe magazine

ceo letter

New Europe may be an oxymoron, for the lands between Berlin and Moscow, Tallinin and Tirana are richly bathed in European history. They are, however, filled with a new spirit and ebullience that has only multiplied since casting off the shadow of the Cold War. The feeling that anything can happen and everything is possible brought us here, underpinned by a sense that though history may have been cruel, it was, after all, our history.

This experience and thinking is illustrated by the story of a man who claimed he was born in Austria-Hungary, went to school in Czechoslovakia, married in Hungary, worked most of his life in the Soviet Union, and now lives in the Ukraine. “Traveled a lot, then?” asks the interviewer. “No, I never moved from Mukachevo.” History certainly has not worn down our sense of humor.

While citizens of the new Europe hold out open arms to visitors, they are increasingly traveling to the farthest reaches of the world and former émigrés are returning home. Michael Palin, travel journalist and former member of the Monty Python comedy troupe, recently passed through this land and recorded his amusing escapades and reflections. In Bulgaria, he spends the night at a New Age gathering with about a thousand people, leaving him worried how they are all going to fit into the only five toilets available. In Mostar, he shudders while watching bold adventurers leap 20 meters (over 60 feet) into the shallow waters under the famous Mostar Bridge (p 32). After a humorous Balkan trip, we take an extraordinary excursion around Warsaw through the lens of acclaimed photographer Wojtek Wieteska. In the past, he’s taken on New York, Tokyo and Paris; he returns home and cleverly captures a city fired up with energy and change. His artistic eye catches moments we might otherwise miss if stopping only on the tourist track. Meanwhile, Polish photographer Tomek Niewiadomski takes a different tack. one that fits well with the refined new architecture and style coalescing all throughout this area, as reflected in the new high-rises designed by world class ‘starchitects’ like Daniel Libeskind, Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid (p 34).

As spring has dawned politically and economically on this region’s peoples, so does seasonal spring inspire us with new energy to forge ahead in our endeavors. Those who turn today’s ideas into tomorrow’s innovations will move ahead of the pack to become its leaders.

Jerzy Kamecki Editor in Chief

mamaison | new europe magazine

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contents

Editor’s letter / 10 Hotel CEO letter / 10

discover

/ 20 / 12

Luxury living and design A choice selection of the finest products

Towering Capital

Golf in Russia

Warsaw skyscrapers compete for prestige and height – by Anna Kapica-Harward and Adam Zdrodowski

Quick guide

face

Eastern Leap

/ 18

Excerpt from Michael Palin’s latest book, “New Europe,” chronicling his adventure; photography

by Basil Pao

Maxim Velcovski shakes up Czech design Interview by Jerzy Kamecki

cliq

Prague quick guide

shine

/ 20

Hi-tech style

/ 46

Fashion

The latest cutting-edge products

Dual Image by Yohji Yamamoto; exclusive photography by Tomek Niewiadomski

Warsaw Leads

Poland’s capital emerges colorfully from a gray façade in the lens of Wojtek Wieteska

Scent of spring The latest scents for ladies and gents

Warsaw quick guide

Cocktail!

Blue Danube is a perfect spring mix

muse

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Le Régina Hotel Warsaw Relax, recharge and savor Warsaw’s best

Pork cheeks

Culinary delights by chef Paweł Oszczyk

Hungarian Pinot Noir

Wine selection by sommelier Andrzej Strzelczyk

MaMaison Hotel location listings

flash / 36

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George Clooney Can his star keep rising?

contributors

Michael Palin Michael is an English comedian, actor, writer and television presenter best known for being one of the members of the comedy group Monty Python and for his travel documentaries. After Monty Python, he began a new career as a travel writer. His journeys have taken him across the world, the North and South Poles, the Sahara desert, the Himalayas and, most recently, Eastern Europe.

Tomek Niewiadomski Tomek picked up his photo skills and experience in Australia, Poland and the U.S.A. while studying with such renowned photographers as David Michael Kennedy and Paul Aresu. East meets East in his fashion shoot for this issue of ‘New Europe Magazine’ – an Eastern European photographer shoots couture by Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto.

Wojtek Wieteska One of Poland’s best-known photographers, Wojtek’s work is imbued with a strongly subjective hue and powerful hint of individuality.

Though he currently he lives in Warsaw, his journeys to Australia, North Africa, Middle East, Europe, Japan and USA have always been an inspiration for works like 36xParis, Reality, Far West, Tokyo, NYC#02, and Still Life.

Anna Kapica-Harward Anna writes on a variety of subjects related to real estate and economics, but also covers social and cultural topics. A University of London She graduate, she has worked in the UK and Poland. Anna has chosen to live in Warsaw because she likes being part of a rapidly developing city. In her spare time, she practices Ashtanga yoga.

Adam Zdrodowski Though only 26 years old, Adam Zdrodowski has managed to graduate from the Institute of English Studies and the American Studies Center at Warsaw University. Currently, he is working on his Ph.D. and has applied all that brainpower to analyzing the real estate market – including the latest investments in Warsaw’s tallest-buildings-to-be.

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editor's letter

/ 39

/ 46

10

New Europe may be an oxymoron, for the lands between Berlin and Moscow, Tallinin and Tirana are richly bathed in European history. They are, however, filled with a new spirit and ebullience that has only multiplied since casting off the shadow of the Cold War. The feeling that anything can happen and everything is possible brought us here, underpinned by a sense that though history may have been cruel, it was, after all, our history.

This experience and thinking is illustrated by the story of a man who claimed he was born in Austria-Hungary, went to school in Czechoslovakia, married in Hungary, worked most of his life in the Soviet Union, and now lives in the Ukraine. “Traveled a lot, then?” asks the interviewer. “No, I never moved from Mukachevo.” History certainly has not worn down our sense of humor.

While citizens of the new Europe hold out open arms to visitors, they are increasingly traveling to the farthest reaches of the world and former émigrés are returning home.

Michael Palin, travel journalist and former member of the Monty Python comedy troupe, recently passed through this land and recorded his amusing escapades and reflections. In Bulgaria, he spends the night at a New Age gathering with about a thousand people, leaving him worried how they are all going to fit into the only five toilets available.

In Mostar, he shudders while watching bold adventurers leap 20 meters (over 60 feet) into the shallow waters under the famous Mostar Bridge (p 32). After a humorous Balkan trip, we take an extraordinary excursion around Warsaw through the lens of acclaimed

mamaison | new europe magazine

photographer Wojtek Wieteska. In the past, he’s taken on New York, Tokyo and Paris; he returns home and cleverly captures a city fired up with energy and change. His artistic eye catches moments we might otherwise miss if stopping only on the tourist track.

Meanwhile, Polish photographer Tomek Niewiadomski takes a different tack. His wandering Slavic spirit treks even further east. In the Far East, he finds a creative mix and captures the fine elegance of clothes

by Yohji Yamamoto (p 44). Enjoy the cool sophistication – one that fits well with the refined new architecture and style coalescing all throughout this area, as reflected in the new high-rises designed by world class ‘starchitects’ like Daniel Libeskind, Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid (p 34).

As spring has dawned politically and economically on this region’s peoples, so does seasonal spring inspire us with new energy to forge ahead in our endeavors. Those who turn today’s ideas into tomorrow’s innovations will move ahead of the pack to become its leaders. We hope to be in the forefront with you. Together, we will discover new places and trends, clique and shine with exciting people and luxurious locations to find that the new Europe is a muse of boundless inspiration.

Jerzy Kamecki Editor in Chief

discover

dna art There is

nobody like you and you can show off the genes that make you individual on a unique painting. www.dna-artuk.com

outdoors in Experts in avant-garde rugs, nanimarquina

collette lock.

Philips and Swarovski announced a partnership with the goal of producing “a range of new and unique products that will take technology to a new, fashionable level for women.”

The lock premeried at Paris’ unique Collette boutique. www.collette.com

and Tord Boontje, one of today’s top designers, have teamed up to bring the outdoors stylishly into your home. We love the fact that you feel a certain respect when you step on the rug and how, at the same time, it transports you to the outdoors. It’s lovely to have a bit of nature inside your house. www.nanimarquina.com

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discover warmth of wood The natural warmth of wood and high-quality workmanship make the Laguna Pearl bathtub a central, eye-catching element in any bathroom, while its compact external dimensions mean it can be easily installed. www.laguna.li

say yes... YES carries a breathtaking collection of exquisite jewelry from a mosaic of sensuous materials including gold, silver, diamonds, pearls, precious gemstones and amber. Some designs are up-market – like a Safire-gold bracelet for PLN 9,095 or the

Mendis presents the world’s first ultrapremium coconut brandy bottle for sale for $1,000,000.

A second bottle was given away free to a lucky winner as a way to promote the launch of the brandy. mendisbrandy.com

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radiant Rubin medallion for PLN 3,995 – while others are pleasingly price-conscious, but each and every piece is guaranteed to make the world see you or your loved one in a different light. www.yes.com.pl

www.montblanc.com

”I am at heart a gentleman,” claimed the timeless Marlene Dietrich. Montblanc pays homage to the acclaimed goddess of Hollywood’s golden age. With charisma, beauty and soul, this pen is dedicated to women determined to fulfill their vision. www.montblanc.com

Saint Basil Cartier Santos 100 watch. Exclusive to Russia, a limited edition of 25 pieces made of 18k gold with round-cut diamonds and Saint Basil motif. Water resistant to 100 meters.

crystal lingerie The success of Swarovski’s crystals lies in the search for new possibilities and breaking down the lines between jewelry, fashion, art and objects of daily use. Though the company still makes limited or custom collections for the stars, there are pieces available at reasonable prices that let the sparkle of luxury come into discerning homes. www.laperla.com

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discover

sculptural vase The ‘Thinking of You’ finely crafted metal vase-covers embellish recycled glass jars and containers. Packaged flat, they are easily transformed into lovely sculptural objects. www.artecnicainc.com

golf in Russia moscow city golf club

slot machine watch More than original, the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon shakes up accepted traditions. Who thought that the precision of the greatest watchmaking complications could never harmonize with the uncertainty of games of

119590 Moscow 9 holes, Par: 33 Driving range: 30 mats, 250 meters www.mcgc.ru

moscow country club 143430 Moscow region,

Krasnogorsky region, Nakhabino 18 holes, Par: 72 Driving range: 30 mats, 300 meters www.mccmembers.ru

chance? Girard-Perregaux merges these two worlds in one exclusive Haute Horlogerie model of unexpected

duny golf club St. Petersburg 9 holes, Par: 30 www.golf.spb.ru

complexity. For the first time, a watch combines a Tourbillon and a slot machine equipped with a striking mechanism in perfect proportion with the Vintage 1945 case.

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driving range Moscow Krylatskaya Str. 2 13 mats, 300х250 meters Tel. +7 (095) 140-5001

korea house driving range Moscow Volgogradsky pr., 26, b.1 20 mats Tel. +7 (095) 270-9070, 270-0911, 270-1300, 768-2276

face

design maxim

by Jerzy Kamecki

Qubus design was founded in 2002 by designers Jakub Berdych and Maxim Velcovsky. At their studio and shop in the old town of Prague they exhibit and sell their collection of ceramic and glass designs by the founders alongside the various work of other designers who share their subversive and playful design sensibility. Many items make reference to iconic pieces from Czechoslovakia’s history but provide a decidedly modern twist.

NEM: Is your hat your trademark?

Jakub: I don’t try to make it a trademark, but it is just a little reminiscence of my favorite film ‘French Connection’ with Gene Hackman, where he wears the same hat. ‘French Connection’ was one of the few Western movies you could see here in the Czechoslovakia during communism. When I saw the hat one day while walking the streets of New York, I just had to buy it.

Maxim: There is no hat that fits on my head!

NEM: How did you come up with the idea for the Qubus design studio and store? Is it also a restaurant?

Jakub: I founded Qubus design studio and shop in 2002 with Maxim simply because there was no place in Prague or the Czech Republic exhibiting or selling design. It has turned into its own label producing and selling conceptual design. It is not a restaurant yet, but it is probably not a bad idea to make it a restaurant one day. Thanks for the interesting idea.

NEM: Is there a message or philosophy behind your pieces and boutique?

Maxim: Of course there is something we want to say. At the very least, we want to share our experience. We spent our childhood in a communist country and now we compare that with a consumer society.

NEM: Has Qubus been a success?

Jakub: In my view it is. But I live in a country where success equals jealousy. So, if somebody from the Czech Republic asks me if it is successful I would probably answer no, but your case is different, so I say yes.

What changes would you like to see take place with Qubus?

Maxim: Well we would like to have another Qubus shop in New York, Paris, Rio, Moscow, Tokyo!

NEM: What is your favorite place in Prague for inspiration?

Jakub: Parlament, the pub next door where we like to go after work to relax and work some more. It’s also a place where you can meet many artists and good friends. But, I find inspiration in everything I do and

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© Marek Novotny

© Sebek

© Marek Novotny

see. A place in Prague that provides a lot of inspiration is a secondhand store next door selling old things people bring over from their closets or from dumpsters. You can find pretty much everything there from screws and stuffed animals to chandeliers. Just last week, Maxim bought a beautiful 70s Mongolian leather jacket there.

Maxim: My inspiration is everyday life, meeting ordinary people.

Other than that, some of my influences, in terms of people, would be Austrian artist Erwin Wurm, Wim Delvoye – a Belgian conceptual artist known for a number of unconventional projects, and the Dada art movement.

NEM: What’s your favorite restaurant in Prague?

Maxim: My favorite is a place called ‘U Mikulky.’

Jakub: I can’t say I have one favorite restaurant, there are a few I go to often but I also like to explore new places.

NEM: Some of your design pieces seem straight out of childhood.

Do you miss being a kid?

Jakub: I like to think back of the times when I was a child, wearing diapers was very practical but not very comfortable...

Maxim: I actually still enjoy my childhood, that’s why we do whatever we like. It is important for me to be child like, not childish!

qubus studio Qubus design is a multidisciplinary platform for experimenting with traditional Czech aesthetics and materials such as porcelain or glass. It has produced dozens of designs – including interior and graphic design - ranging from exclusive tailor-made creations for private gallery owners to projects for multinationals. The works of the Qubus team draw on the studio’s unique Eastern experience; on a path from Communism to Consumerism, it offers ideas that blend a variety of forms in new contexts, whether created by traditional techniques or the latest technologies.

Photos from left: Maxim Velcovsky and Jakub Berdych (wearing hat) St. Bartholomew’s Church, Chodovice, as Redesigned by Qubus Studio Digi Clock BustaLenin Water proof onion vase Matrioshka Dolls Bottom: Delicatessen (Škoda) plate

NEM: Isn’t all design and art just a repetition of the past?

Jakub: You could say so, but at the same time, a different context gives a new dimension to many objects. Still, we know of many examples where mistakes from the past continue to be repeated.

Maxim: We all do the same things in different contexts! Repetition is fundamental in our Christian culture!

NEM: Many of your designs reference or even copy very common objects, like Coca-cola bottles or galoshes. Why should we consider this high-design?

Maxim: You shouldn’t mamaison | new europe magazine

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let's

walk

Prague, Vrtbovska Garden Terrace-like Baroque garden adorned with sculptures and blessed with an amazing view of Prague Castle and the city’s other historic buildings. An ideal location to rest or take a romantic stroll.

Budapest, Margit Island Park Rather than an island, it feels like you are in a big park or woods. However, it is right next to hotels, bars, pubs, restaurants and you can find swimming pools, football pitches and much more.

Bratislava, Botanic Garden Botanic garden of Bratislava’s Comenius University is situated near La Franconi bridge. With a collection of over 10,000 plant species, you can take time to smell the flowers.

Zagreb, Maksimir Park The oldest park of Zagreb, Maksimir was established at the end of the 18th century; it is the largest and the loveliest park in Croatia and was the first public promenade in all of southeastern Europe.

Moscow, Vorontsovsky Prudi Park

© Warsaw Destination Alliance

Located between Leningradski and Volokolamskaya, it has new tarmac pathways making it ideal for rollerblades or prams, and there is even a mountain bike valley with jumps and other obstacles for those brave enough to take them on.

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Vilnius, Vingio Park Vingio Park is a favorite place for the residents of Vilnius to take a walk, ride a bicycle or go roller-skating and it is popular with sportsmen. A variety of concerts, events and festivals are held on the stage in the park’s center.

Hello, Giorgio?

Giorgio Armani presented the new Samsung Armani mobile phone at a press briefing in the Armani Teatro in Milan, before his Spring/Summer 2008 Women’s fashion show.

Similar to the worshipped iPhone, this beauty’s features include a touchscreen, as well as a 3.2MP camera, Bluetooth with A2DP, and Micro SD expansion slot.

only 5.7 seconds

and this $98,000 road rocket goes 0-100 km/h using the same batteries as a laptop. The body is patterned after the Lotus Elise. The first year’s production of 600 cars is sold out. www.teslamotors.com 22

mamaison | new europe magazine

i(ntelligent)ring With stylish design and wireless Bluetooth connectivity with your iPod and iPhone, the iRing allows you to control playback and volume on any Apple media device.

Designer Victor Soto, bluepoly.com

cliq

solar headset.

The world’s first solar-powered Bluetooth headset, this new elegant device lets you relax, even sunbathe, while its battery charges. Perfect for the beach, sailing, golf or any other activity where getting to a charger might prove troublesome. www.iqua.com

dragon art The

Dragon Speakers turn on the current trend of eliminating boxy speaker cabinets and provides a look somewhere between luxury and kitsch. The project joins a classical sculptural shape with the modern look of the raw speaker elements creating a new and interesting visual experience. www.axelsson.co.uk

doubling freeways Quadrupling parking, 0-100 km/h in 4 seconds, an ultra-narrow, freeway-capable, stable, safe vehicle that fits anywhere a motorcycle fits – will the Tango revolutionize commuter transportation in the 21st century? www.commutercars.com

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warsaw leads

Š Warsaw Destination Alliance

by Jerzy Kamecki photography by Wojtek Wieteska

Warsaw seems forbidding until you jump into its mix.

Genial people, genteel places and gourmet food await once you break past its standoďŹƒsh grey facade.

The city is the leading force of change in the region: Warsaw shines day and night.

A ďŹ re juggler performs with the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in the background. The city is steeped in remembrance, but its eusive youth refuses to lose their sense of humor. A new generation has transformed the behemoth former Communist Party building into the boisterous stock exchange.

Rather than being saddled with the past, Warsaw looks eagerly toward the future.

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warsaw quick guide 30

Restaurants

Warsaw’s symbol is the mermaid, proudly defending the city on the banks of the Vistula River and in the middle of the Old Town Square.

Shopping

Unique gifts and boutiques may be found all along Warsaw’s main shopping thoroughfare, a.k.a. the Royal Route, leading from Plac Trzech Krzyży (Burberry, BOSS, Max Mara) to the Royal Castle – with plenty of restaurants in between.

Unique gifts: Chocolate Wedel Specialty Chocolatier offers hot chocolate like you have never had before and a beautiful box of chocolates for that special person in your life. ul. Szpitalna 8, tel./fax: 022 827-2916, staroswiecki.sklep@wedelpijalnie.pl Jewelry “Metal” – innovative modern jewelry, but not the place to find big diamonds. Old Town Square 8, tel. 022 831-6481, (other locations throughout the city), www.zaremski.pl Handmade shoes – Jan Kielman & Son Shoe Workshop. Quality handmade shoes for half the price of their Western counterparts. ul. Chmielna 6, tel./fax: 022 828-4630, www.kielman.pl Classical music, “Classic” Music Store. Whether looking for rare recordings of Chopin, Penderecki or klezmer you will find them at this store, along with excellent customer service. pl. Teatralny 1 (inside Grand Theater). tel. 0606 964 936. classfraczak@wp.pl Specialty Foods – Krakowski Kredens – traditional Polish foods such as gooseberry, pear and rosehip preserves with brandy, handmade toffee, traditional fruit liquors, honeys and syrups. ul. Nowy Świat 22.

Alcohols – Poland has an age-old tradition of macerating various fruits and spices with alcohol resulting in something akin to fruit liqueurs – Nalewki i Inne, www.nalewki-i-inne.pl, Arkadia Shopping Center (and other locations) Al. Jana Pawła II 82.

Women’s Couture – after working and studying in Paris and Rome, designer Ania Kuczyńska returns to Warsaw to offer clothes described as ornate minimalism, ul. Solec 85, tel. 0501 584 884, www.aniakuczynska.com

mamaison | new europe magazine

Unless you really have the urge for world cuisine, novel variations on Polish classics will leave you with the most satisfied palate in Warsaw.

Ale Gloria – a traditional Polish menu with a twist.

The interior, food and service all have flair and finesse.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584-7080, www.alegloria.pl Belvedere Restaurant – a true culinary delight set among luscious plants in the center of Warsaw’s Łazienki Park. An ideal place for Sunday brunch. ul. Agrykoli (entrance form ul. Parkowa), tel. 022 841-2250, www.belvedere.com.pl La Rotisserie – exclusive and cozy atmosphere with a French and Polish menu will satisfy the most demanding gourmands. This may become Warsaw’s first Michelin-starred restaurant.

Le Regina Hotel, 11 Kościelna St., tel. 022 531-6070 Pierogarnia – the perfect place to go when hungry for traditional Polish dumplings. ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 022 828-0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl Restauracja Polska Różana – try the roast goose in cranberry sauce and soak up the 18th century aristocratic atmosphere. ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 022 848-1225, www.restauracjapolska.com.pl

Wine Bars

Mielżyński Wines Spirits Specialties – very large selection of fine wines along with excellent sommelier service in friendly surroundings. ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 022 636 87 09.

Vinoteka La Bodega – a wine bar with a Spanish touch and decent tapas. Best of all, it’s right in the center of town. ul. Nowy Świat 5, tel. 0 22 745 46 10.

Drinks/nightlife

Sense – a stand out vodka bar, with perfect cocktails and a great restaurant. A great way to start an evening. ul.

Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826-6570 Cinnamon – the hottest party place crammed with beautiful people. pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 323-7600.

Paparazzi – the meeting place for the Warsaw crowd that likes to be seen. Patrons enjoy a cocktail and cigar and other bar/club options abound on the same street. ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 828-4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl Organza – The reasons to go: a dance floor and bar crammed with trendy club goers. Right next door there is the Middle Eastern-themed Sheesha. ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 828-3232, www.kluborganza

Galleries

Galeria aTak – offers work by contemporary Polish artists with a focus on painting. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 022 826-5055, www.atak.art.pl Galleria 65 – top-notch photography, the location is out of the way, so make an appointment. ul. Bema 65/8, tel./fax: 022 631 2670, www.galeria65.com Galeria Fibak – absolute classics of Polish contemporary art ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, tel. 022 320-0297/54, www.galeriafibak.com.pl

Warsaw’s nightlife is second to none in Poland and every taste is catered to.

Poland’s capital can prove an impossible mix of architectural and cultural styles.

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Warsaw’s charm is not always obvious – you have to seek it out but the beauty uncovered is often far more rewarding than could have been expected.

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towering capital

by Anna Kapica-Harward and Adam Zdrodowski

For over 50 years Warsaw’s 231-meter Palace of Culture has been the tallest edifice in Poland.

While no developer to date has ventured beyond the landmark’s height, the number of high-rises springing up is growing quickly.

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Š investor materials

Modern Zlota 44 Tower

by Daniel Libeskind near Warsaw’s socio-realist Palace of Culture

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35

Lilium Tower

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Chmielna Development

© investor materials Sun deck on 8th floor and interior of Zlota 44 Tower

In 2007, the city saw a plethora of spectacular new projects.

Orco Property Group announced it had obtained a building permit for its Zlota 44 Tower, the first project by starchitect Daniel Libeskind in Poland. It will stand an incredible 192 m (630 ft) high, its 54-storeys shining bright in the very heart of Warsaw.

Some buildings, such as projects from Chmielna Development (282-meters) and the blimp-shaped Lilium Tower

designed by Zaha Hadid (257-meters), would set new height standards if completed. Architectural currents have undoubtedly influenced this, but the growing price of land, especially in the city center, may have had an even stronger impact as taller buildings have become more profitable to construct than low-standing structures. It seems just a matter of time before Warsaw’s iconic Palace gets demoted by one of the many world-class projects now on the drawing board.

More at www.wbj.pl. mamaison | new europe magazine

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day 13:

© Danin Tulic, Dreamstime.com

Mostar Already this morning there is some commotion on the bridge. A young man in a swimming costume has mounted the narrow parapet, and seems about to dive in. A half-scream, half-cheer goes up from a party of schoolchildren on the sandy beach 70 feet below, as he poses, Tarzan-like, flexing his muscles theatrically and peering down from his precarious perch. But then, as we are all willing him to leap, he nonchalantly steps back onto the bridge and walks away.

‘The diving tradition began centuries ago, and it’s maintained, and strictly controlled, by the 100member-strong Mostari Divers’ Club.

The Stari Most and Neretva River shimmer at dusk.

© Tanja Zitnik, Dreamstime.com

“In the approximately three seconds between leaving the bridge and hitting the water the diver must feel he is flying...”

Colorful houses line Neretva River in the welcoming city of Mostar.

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Their President is Emir, a trim, barrel-chested, silver-haired seventy-year-old who first dived from the bridge when he was sixteen, since which time he’s represented Yugoslavia at the Olympics, been a film double for Richard Burton (who hasn’t round here?) and been depicted on a postage stamp. We talk outside the clubhouse, in one of the handsome, rebuilt stone towers at the side of the bridge.

In the approximately three seconds between leaving the bridge and hitting the water ‘the diver must feel he is flying,’ says Emir. ‘It’s not long but for a diver it feels like a century.’

The most important things for a diver doing the lasta (the swallow dive) are to break the water with his hands and never his head, and to enter the water at an angle of no more than 35 degrees.

Emir explains rather starkly, ‘In Olympic swimming pool, the depth of the water is 10 metres. Down there’, he peers over at the swirling green waters of the Neretva, ‘the depth is around 5 metres.’

Whilst someone else collects contributions from the crowd of tourists now swelling the bridge (150 euros a dive, 40 euros a jump), three young men strip down, and one by one terrify and thrill the onlookers by mounting the unprotected 12-inch-wide parapet and, focusing their gaze straight ahead, push themselves outwards and down towards the river. There’s just time to catch your breath before they slice into the water and reappear to howls of applause.

Emir is justly proud of their skills.

‘This is extreme sport. Only other place in the world where you see this is the cliff divers in Acapulco.’

The rest of Michael Palin’s journey filled him with optimism about the spirit of New Europe.

Here are just a few examples of beautiful people and places, such as the Bulgarian White Brotherhood to the finer aspects of Yalta’s beauty.

day 78:

L’viv to Yalta Yalta’s known as the Russian Riviera. You don’t need much to enjoy its balmy Black Sea climate.

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Š Nyul, Dreamstime.com

day 71:

Budapest

After the bath, a breather in the grand hall. I feel a little over-dressed.

read on Michael Palin is an English comedian, actor, writer and television presenter best known for being one of the members of the comedy group Monty Python and for his travel documentaries. After Monty Python, he began a new career as a travel writer. His journeys have taken him across the world, the North and South Poles, the Sahara desert, the Himalayas and, most recently, Eastern Europe.

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day 31:

the Rila Mountains There are some thousand people camped around me and I’m already worrying about how we’re all going to fit into five toilets.

© Martin Maun, Dreamstime.com

prague quick guide 46

Prague, the stunning city of 100 spires, was largely untouched by WWII and its exceptional buildings and old-world feel remain intact. Its citizens are happily building a new city that completely embraces the old. It is now a mecca for those seeking a new place to discover panache, art and design.

Treats and Eats

Shopping

Galleries/museums

Markets

Arzenal combines a top class design salon with a Thai restaurant; it is a junction of cultures, where East and West, architecture and design, fashion and styles meet.

Renowned architect and artist Borek Sípek, commissioned to create such prestigious buildings as Japan’s Kyoto Opera or Karl Lagerfeld’s shop in Paris, conceived and designed Arzenal. Valentinska 11, www.arzenal.cz Dahab is a homey and relaxed café with a more formal restaurant section, it is all about the tempting tastes of the maghreb and other Mediterranean cuisines. The café attracts hordes of students and tourists whereas the restaurant seems a haven for adventurous expats and locals. Dlouh· 33, www.dahab.cz Hergetova Cihelná is a great restaurant right on the bank of Prague’s Vltava River that wows with a great view of the Charles Bridge. Cihelná has endeared itself in the hearts of many for its excellent fusion cuisine – fresh, tasty and a feast for the eyes as well. Cihelná 2b, www.cihelna.com

Kubista – founded to explore the origins of classical Czech art, architecture and design, Kubista presents the best of decorative art and design from the most important stylistic periods of the 20th century, particularly Cubism and Art Deco. Rare originals and the outstanding tradition of applied arts are the main sources of inspiration for the contemporary young generation of artists and designers presented. Ovocnỳ trh 19, www.kubista.cz Gallery Václava Špály is a minimal noncommercial gallery with very helpful staff. Much of the experience will depend on who is being shown at the time, but we trust their taste. Národní tr. 30, Tel. 24 94 67 38 Museum of Communism ñ A fascinating and sometimes even humorous tour through the ideologies and objects that constituted the People’s Republic of Czechoslovakia. Soviet-era paraphernalia and propaganda is on sale in the lobby. Na Prikope 10, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz

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Beata Rajska created designs for the Czech Republic representatives at the Miss International competition in Tokyo, Miss Europe in Paris, Miss World in London and China, Miss Universe in Colombia and Peru, and Miss World Tourism in Colombia. The boutique offers sultry original creations for every occasion. Ovocny trh 11, www.beatarajska.com Luis Vuitton – maybe not the most original choice, but you certainly can’t go wrong with a gift from LV. If that doesn’t work, the abundant shopping on this, Prague’s most exclusive street, is a surefire hit. Pa říská 13, www.vuitton.com Qubus Design – founded by designers Jakub Berdych and Maxim Velcovsky, this studio and shop shows off (and sells) their ceramic and glass designs alongside the various work of other designers who share their subversive and playful design sensibility that never fails to attract attention. Rámová 3, www.qubus.cz

Havelske Trziste Market is the main open air market in Prague selling fruits and vegetables as well as tourist souvenir stalls. It is just off Melantrichova street between the tourist office and Old Town Square. Mon-Fri 8:00–18:30; Sat 7:00–18:30; Sun 8:00–20:00.

Prazska Trznice Market sells consumer goods as well as the usual fruits and vegetables, arts and crafts. Holesivice, Prague 7 near Metro line C, Stop Vltavska. Open year-round Mon-Fri 8:00–18:00 and Sat 8:00–13:00.

Prague Easter Markets where more than 100 stalls offer a wide selection of hand-crafted goods, such as wooden toys, candles, jewelry, metal-ware, embroidery, and dolls in regional costume. Brightly colored, hand-painted Easter eggs are the star attraction. Located at the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square.

shine

dual image Yohji Yamamoto

Inspiration abounds, creativity and elegance are rare. Photographer Tomek Niewiadomski found all three in Japan. His work is the perfect example of the New European spirit – not limited by borders or regions.

女 fashion

shine

栄 え る

photographs: Tomek Niewiadomski styling: Yuki Watanabe makeup: Mina Nodo hair: Olivier models: Sachi, Anna Kanehara coordination: Chihiro Ishida

女

fashion shine

栄 え る

scent of spring

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(1) Happy Spirit, Chopard – Eau De Parfum for women, (2) Miss Boucheron – Eau De Parfum for women, (3) BlackXS for Her, Paco Rabanne – Eau De Toilette for women, (4) Elle, Yves Saint Laurent – Eau De Parfum for women, (5) Kelly Cale`che, Herme`s – Eau De Toilette for women, (6) United Colors of Benetton Woman & Man – women’s 40 ml, men’s 75 ml (7) Alien, Thierry Mugler – refillable Eau De Parfum Spray for women, (8) Omnia Améthyste, Bvlgari – Eau De Toilette For Women, (9) For Him, Narciso Rodriguez – Eau De Toilette Spray.

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blue

danube The Danube River flows – through Europe old and new – making a cocktail of the same name the perfect spring choice. Frost the rim of a chilled cocktail glass with sugar. Stir vodka, blue curacao, grapefruit juice, and sugar syrup in a mixing glass with ice to prevent cloudiness. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

© William Berry, Dreamstime.com

recipe

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shot of vodka 1 maraschino cherry 1/2 shot or less Blue Curacao liqueur 1/2 shot grapefruit juice 1/2 shot sugar syrup sugar for rim

muse

Located in Warsaw’s historic Old Town, Le Regina hotel has been faithfully restored to the splendor of an 18th century palace and outfitted with all the modern amenities.

A fireplace welcomes visitors to the cozy lounge, which opens on to a quiet courtyard garden and fountain.

Guests can relax in the spa, with a swimming pool, fitness equipment and sauna.

Le Regina is the first, and only, hotel in this quaint and prestigious part of the city. Discreet roof apartments with private terraces make for a special Warsaw residence during extended stays.

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Historic landmarks abound in close proximity to the hotel, including The Royal Castle, National Opera House, historic Jewish landmarks and many old churches and monasteries.

Le Regina is located only 500 meters from the enchanting Old Town Square and is within walking distance of the city center landmark Palace of Culture

stay

Š Warsaw Destination Alliance

and Warsaw’s Business District.

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muse

savor La Rotisserie restaurant is an exceptional gallery of flavors and aromas. Their traditional Polish hospitality accentuates the bounty of local fields, meadows and forests.

Chef Paweł Oszczyk selects the choicest, freshest and unique ingredients to create delightful compositions, served with elegance typical of classic French cuisine. Particularly delicious and original are his baby pork cheeks braised in beer and caraway, dates and dry apple consommé.

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mamaison hotel directory Bratislava, Slovakia MaMaison Residence Sulekova Sulekova 20, 811 06, Bratislava, Slovakia e-mail: sulekova@mamaison.com reservations: +421 259 100 200 fax: +421 259 100 250 www.residence-sulekova.com skype: residence.sulekova

Budapest, Hungary MaMaison Andrassy Hotel H-1063 Budapest, Andrassy Ăşt 111, Hungary reception: +36 1 4622 100 fax: +36 1 3229 445 e-mail: reservation@andrassyhotel.com www.andrassyhotel.com skype: andrassyhotel MaMaison Residence Izabella Izabella ucta 61, H-1064, Budapest, Hungary e-mail: izabella@mamaison.com reservations: +361 475 59 00 fax: +361 475 59 02 www.residence-izabella.com skype: residence_izabella

Š Kasia Marcinkiewicz / Valkea Media S.A.

Hvar, Croatia MaMaison Hotel Riva Hotel Riva, Dolac bb, 21450 Hvar, Croatia e-mail: reservations@suncanihvar.com reservations: +385 21 750 100 fax: +385 21 750 101 www.suncanihvar.com/riva MaMaison Hotel Amfora Dolac bb, 21450 Hvar, Croatia e-mail: reservations@suncanihvar.com reservations: +385 21 750 300 fax: +385 21 750 301 www.suncanihvar.com/amfora MaMaison Hotel Adriana Fabrika bb, 21450 Hvar, Croatia reservations: Tel: +385 (0)21 750 750, fax: +385 (0)21 750 751 reservations@suncanihvar.com

Moscow, Russia MaMaison Pokrovka Suite Hotel Pokrovka str. 40, building 2, 105062 Moscow, Russia reservations: +7 495 229 57 97 fax: +7 495 229 57 75 e-mail: info@pokrovka-moscow.com www.pokrovka-moscow.com

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muse

five stars Though sommelier Andrzej Strzelczyk is extremely knowledgeable about Old and New World wines, if you are looking for something new, try his recommendation of Hungarian wines. Even the chef agrees – ‘Andy’s’ surprising pairing of the Hungarian pinot noir with the grilled fillet of Saint Pierre with Greek vegetables, merlot and bay leaf essence deserves a five star rating.

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Warsaw, Poland MaMaison Le Regina Hotel ul. Koscielna 12, 00-218 Warsaw, Poland reception: +48 22 531 60 00 fax: +48 22 531 60 01 e-mail: info@leregina.com www.leregina.com skype: leregina-hotel MaMaison Residence Diana 13A Chmielna Street, 00-021, Warsaw, Poland e-mail: diana@mamaison.com reservations: +48 22 505 91 00 fax: +48 22 505 91 01 www.mamaison.com/warsaw/diana skype: Hotel Imperial Ostrava

© Kasia Marcinkiewicz / Valkea Media S.A.

Bielsko Biała, Poland MaMaison Parkhotel ul. Bystrzańska 48, 43-309 Bielsko Biała, Poland reception: +48 33 812 0500 fax: +48 33 812 0699 e-mail: recepcja@vienna.pl www.vienna.pl

Ostrava, Czech Republic MaMaison Imperial Hotel Tyršova 6, 701 38 Ostrava, Czech Republic reservations: +420 599 099 717 fax: +420 599 099 735 e-mail: rezervace@imperial.cz www.imperial.cz skype: Hotel Imperial Ostrava

Prague, Czech Republic MaMaison Riverside Hotel Janáčkovo nábřeží 15, 150 00 Prague 5, Czech Republic reservations: +420 234 705 155 reception: +420 225 994 611 fax: +420 225 994 622. e-mail: info@riversideprague.com MaMaison Pachtuv Palace Karolíny Světlé 34, Staré Město, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic reception: +420 234 705 111 fax: +420 234 705 112 e-mail: reception@pachtuvpalace.com reservations: +420 234 705 155 fax: +420 234 705 158 e-mail: reservation@pachtuvpalace.com www.pachtuvpalace.com skype: Riverside & Pachtuv MaMaison Residence Belgicka Belgicka 12, 120 00 Prague 2, Czech Republic reservations: +420 221 401 800 fax: +420 221 401 834 e-mail: belgicka@mamaison.com www.residence-belgicka.com skype: residence-belgicka

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top

class

He seems like the perfect guy to sip a scotch with. To ladies he seems like the perfect guy to do anything with.

George Clooney is the epitome of class, talent, great looks and a good heart – none of which are on the decline.

Clooney’s first major part came in 1984 in the television medical comedy/drama, E/R. Though it takes place in a hospital, it is not the same show as the TV drama ER that ran from 1994 to 1999, in which Clooney achieved stardom as Dr. Doug Ross.

That’s the role that vaulted him into Hollywood blockbusters.

The star’s achievements are not limited to acting. In early 2008, the actor/director/screenwriter, who is also an advocate for refugees in Darfur, was named a United Nations “messenger of peace.” He was “recognized for focusing public attention on crucial international political and social issues,” according to the U.N. spokesperson.

His latest feature, Burn After Reading, starring John Malkovich, Frances McDormand, and Brad Pitt, is directed by Joel and Ethan Coen and will involve the world of the CIA, physical fitness, and internet dating. With an Academy Award for best supporting actor in his pocket and a 2008 Academy Award nomination for best leading actor, George Clooney’s star shows no sign of fading.

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