50 minute read
Mexican standoff
As Cinco De Mayo approaches, join us for a look at our favorite Mexican haunts in Warsaw…
Make or lose friends over Montana Nachos at Blue Cactus
Blue Cactus
Dobra 42 (Elektrownia) They say legends never die, and proving that is the long-awaited return of this Warsaw institution. Originally launched in the 90s, the Cactus is best remembered for raucous, margarita fueled nights and a menu credited with opening the city’s then innocent culinary eyes. Much has changed since, but whilst the management have promised to cater for nostalgists, they’re also a adopting an updated, modern-minded philosophy and an approach valuing artisanal, local produce. Yep, we can’t wait to visit.
WHAT WE RATE
We’ll tell you next month!
Dos Tacos
Jasna 22 The true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. Although Dos Tacos isn’t the most ‘fashionable’ of Mexican eateries, the food is often exceptional – the Al Pastor tacos are our go-to order.
WHAT WE RATE
The salsas are beautiful and, at times, beautifully dangerous.
The under-the-counter salsa clandestinas should come with a health warning. But despite their lethal potential to incapacitate, you keep dipping in for more no matter as to the risks involved.
El Popo
Senatorska 27 Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. This place feels like it’s been around for longer than the sun, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via a menu that you can rely on – for old timers living in Warsaw, visiting El Popo isn’t dissimilar to popping on your favorite slippers.
WHAT WE RATE
As the temperatures begin to climb, look out for their paleta ice lollies.
Gringo Bar
Various locations, inc. Odolańska 15 & Hala Koszyki Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a perversely Polonized version of this cuisine, but in our eyes the informal Gringo remains one of Warsaw’s market leaders.
WHAT WE RATE
The philosophy. Before Gringo arrived, Mexican venues were the preserve of shouty expats and middle-aged Poles. Gringo popularized the food with an entirely younger demographic.
Everything is better with a margarita at El Popo
La Sirena
Piękna 54 Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the small but hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh. But if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a more finessed approach to Mexican cuisine, the flavors and ingredients here speak of a kitchen keen to show a more nuanced side to this magical culture. And we just love that tart and tangy ‘near death’ salsa.
WHAT WE RATE
out. Inventive, exciting and expertly made, they’re to be reckoned as among the best in town.
MariCruz Mission Burrito
Dobra 42 (Elektrownia) Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of backdrop when dealing with hand-held food. And what’s with the “Mission” part? That
Señor Lucas keeps it fast and spicy...
Rico
Jana Pawła II 61 On first look, Rico feels mainstream and unadventurous: at a time when restaurants are falling over each other to be brave and daring, Rico’s ABC choice of standard Tex-Mex seems prosaic. Perhaps it is, but that doesn’t stop it from being an enjoyable experience. Though lacking any salsas that actually bite, the food is reliably good – and often so much more. Served in a glass skull, the mango Coronita proves good company for your burrito.
WHAT WE RATE
Rico, along with a one or two other joints down the road, have lifted the entire area out of its culinary black hole – that’s not be sniffed at.
sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max with slow-cooked ingredients and boisterous homemade salsas.
WHAT WE LIKE
Not all of us are capable of eating successfully with our hands. With these people in mind, the girls of MariCruz have gone the extra yard by introducing idiot-proof burrito bowls.
Momencik
Poznańska 16 You don’t need to be vegan to enjoy Momencik, for such is their magnificence that this meat-free establishment outranks many of the ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. Limiting their menu to tacos, burritos, gringas and tostados, this pokey subterranean den has come to be regarded as one of the city’s cult addresses.
WHAT WE RATE
The salsas deserve a medal – you could happily exist on just the pineapple salsa for the rest of your life.
Señor Lucas
Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16) Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts.
WHAT WE RATE
The food, dummy – the addictive brilliance of Lucas is indisputable.
Best Of… Poland
To find the essence of Poland, visit any one of these restaurants – ranging from elegant to shabby, discover these for a 360 view of Polish cuisine…
Patelnia Patera
ul. Wilcza 29A
Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere!
BEZ GWIAZDEK
ul. Wiślana 8 Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!
POLANA SMAKÓW
ul. E. Plater 14 Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.
PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE
ul. Brzeska 29/31 The specialty here are pyzy, homemade dumplings that are squished into jars and lathered with various toppings. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery.
THE FARM
ul. Mokotowska 8 Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket.
ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ
ul. Smolna 4 A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: from the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.
ŹRÓDŁO
ul. Targowa 81 The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam.
Food Hubs
For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food and drinks under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…
Hala Koszyki
ul. Koszykowa 63
Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen.
BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE
ul. Grzybowska 60 Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele. The Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall. Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational. CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER
Pl. Konesera Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer.
ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE
ul. Dobra 42 A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. You swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub.
HALA GWARDII
Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1 Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall.
NOCNY MARKET
ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna) A nocturnal institution, Nocny Market is a street food market set on the battered, disused platform of an abandoned train station. Due to return this month, swing in to eat at an outdoor line-up of ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots that are complemented by a couple of bars, trucks and tents housing makeshift barber shops, tattoo stands and DJ booths. Working Friday to Sunday, it’s a seasonal sensation!
NORBLIN FOOD TOWN
Żelazna 51/53 Behold, Warsaw’s newest food hub! Set in the sympathetically restored Norblin Factory, you’re right to expect a banging atmosphere – food-wise, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Uzbek, Thai and Indian tastes are just some to look forward to. And next door, find the celebrated Bio Bazar.
Specialty Coffee
Warsaw’s coffee culture has exploded, a point reflected by its number of specialty cafes – of course there’s more, but here’s our tried and tested faves…
Coffeedesk Próźna
ul. Próźna 7 (also on Wilcza 42).
Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. For a more ascetic style, but more of the same quality, check their original address on Wilcza.
COPHI
ul. Hoża 58/60 The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the trees bloom down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures rise and uber funky seating is added outdoors: it’s an al fresco living room!
DOBRE MATERIA
ul. Nowolipki 13 Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYB, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes should not be overlooked either.
FAT WHITE
ul. Andersa 6 Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past.
FILTRY DOBRA KAWA
ul. Niemcewicza 3 Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends.
FORUM
ul. Elektoralna 11 Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.
ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle.
RELAKS
ul. Puławska 48 An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.
RELAX NA WILCZEJ
ul. Wilcza 17 An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.
ROŚLINA
ul. Schroegera 80 Set in the heart of Stare Bielany, there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the changing seasons head to the magical little garden to the side.
SACRED MILL BREW BAR
ul. Grzybowska 43A Through a heavy glass door visitors enter a space that’s minimal in size and design – lots of dark, hard surfaces offset by whites and charcoal colors and a few green succulents. As a look, it’s clean and intelligent and entirely fitting with the area. But you ain’t here for the design. The winner here is coffee, and coffee as roasted by Sacred Mill since February of 2021. Focused but not limited to African coffees, find this crew following Nordic roasting practice which, it transpires, means light roasted coffees of consistent quality.
STOR
ul. Tamka 33 Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.
U KRAWCA
ul. Siennicka 3 Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.
LOCAL FAVORITE
FAWORY
ul. Mickiewicza 21
An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though and come served inside a lively, gossipy interior that captures the essence of Warsaw café culture.
Best of Europe
Broad as Europe is, we’ve cherry-picked some of our favorite specific tastes to be found in Warsaw…
Le Braci
ul. Górnośląska 24
You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. Last year, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of modern Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots.
BIBENDA
ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a date or a special night out with friends. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’. BUTCHERY & WINE
ul. Żurawia 22 When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.
Fort Służew 1B Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.
FRANK
ul. Grzybowska 43A Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, Frank has a quite sense of luxury. But having adjusted to the shine and gloss, one sees it for what it is: a place of good mood and food. For the latter, thank Aleksander Baron, a chef that’s reimagined German cuisine in an almost tapas-like form. Hits include Bavarian cheese Spätzle, superb sausages and Flammkuchen (a.k.a. German pizza).
KONESER GRILL
ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser) Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters.
KLONN
ul. Jazdów 1B Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA
art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill.
MIĘSNY
ul. Walecznych 64 Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local butcher shop doubles as a restaurant offering an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior, find it adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals.
MUNJA
ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie) Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels.
MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI
ul. Londyńska 16 With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family.
RUSIKO
Al. Ujazdowskie 22 A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.
WELCOME TO GREECE!
For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki!
ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)
BEST of WARSAW
2020
Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!
The Vegan Scene
Astonishing as it sounds, Warsaw is officially rated as one of the most vegan friendly cities on the planet. We’d need a telephone book to list them all, so instead settled for a slimmed down selection of Insider stars…
Peaches Gastro Girls
ul. Mokotowska 58
Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.
EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI
ul. Wilcza 11 Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc.
ul. Wilcza 60 First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.
LEONARDO VERDE
Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.
LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO
ul. Krucza 23/31 Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.
UKI GREEN
ul. Koszykowa 49A Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen.
VEGAN RAMEN SHOP
ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert.
YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI
ul. Hoża 62 Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished.
MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA
Special Night Out
When second best just won't do, hit up these big guns for a meal to remember...
Ale Wino
ul. Mokotowska 48
Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, the menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes and is admired for some of the most interesting cooking in the city – think elegant with a localized twist. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.
DYLETANCI
ul. Rozbrat 44A The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. EPOKA
ul. Ossolińskich 3 Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever.
EUROPEJSKI GRILL
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso gives regional suppliers an all-star role, and though the menu has been significantly simplified since the lockdowns, it remains an artistic undertaking never short on surprises.
MUZEALNA
Al. Jerozolimskie 3 Design figures highly. Minimalistic at first sight, this sun-kissed chamber in the nether regions of the National Museum is sprinkled generously with works attributed to some of Poland’s top design pioneers. On the food front, Przemysław Suska, a rising star with the world at his feet, has modernized Polish classics whilst giving international dishes a Polonized spin: step forward the beetroot wellington.
NOBU
ul. Wilcza 73 Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini.
NOLITA
ul. Wilcza 46 For many diners, there is no bigger
night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists.
NUTA
Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 Extraordinary in every respect, Nuta is a place where the impossible happens – no surprise given that Andrea Camastra is cooking. Rated among Le Liste’s Top 100 chefs in the world, his cooking is a world class experience that involves dizzying takes on Polish classics as well as a couple of favorites from his previous restaurant, the Michelin starred Senses. Highlights are too numerous to mention, suffice to say this is the best restaurant in Warsaw – and most likely Poland. Enjoy it in an interior that feels sophisticated but never ceremonial. Bookings mandatory.
RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.
ROZBRAT 20
ul. Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.
SIGNATURE
ul. Poznańska 15 Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.
SZÓSTKA
Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka’s fan base is all thanks to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great pleasures.
A HIPSTER GO-TO
MOD
ul. Oleandrów 8
Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers.
Bottoms Up!
Where lie our favorite wine bars and cocktail lounges? Look no further…
Warszawa Powiśle
ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B
Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar.
BRUSH 2.0
Nowogrodzka 6A Once darkness falls this on-trend barber shop transforms into a high-energy cocktail den populated by whiskered local scenesters and off-duty models. Mingle alongside them inside an industrial, masculine interior that’s heavy on raw brickwork, exposed steel and all the fixtures and fittings you’d expect in a barber’s: from revolving, stripy poles to cabinets full of razors. Incongruous as the overall concept sounds, everything comes together in seamless fashion. ul.
CHARLIE & CHARLIE KINOTEKA
ul. Mokotowska 39 & Pl. Defilad 1 Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald. Karim Bibars, the man behind it all, is one Poland’s best-known cocktail kings, and his drinks are the personification of liquid elegance. Opened in Feb, now find Charlie’s little sister inside the Palace of Culture: espousing an air of cinematic cool, it sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel.
CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE
ul. Koszykowa 49A Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab.
EL KOKTEL
ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9 The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers.
LANE’S GIN BAR
ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty, peachy-pink ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. Perfectly proportioned, Lane’s is intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks
when you discreetly enquire about their little black book. Within this secret tome lie recipes scrawled down by the regulars.
LORETA
ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.
NOLA
ul. Wilcza 43 NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe.
PALOMA INN
ul. Poznańska 21 Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, the Paloma Inn is a childlike joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Complementing it all, find groovy muzak, fondue sets, weird cocktails and a toilet that stops you in your tracks with its bold mandarin colors.
RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ
“In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia.
REGINABAR
ul. Koszykowa 1 Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.
WINNICE MOŁDAWII
ul. Czarnieckiego 63A Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house – wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden.
A NEW CULT CLASSIC
VHS BAR
Poznańska 7
An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff. As for the toilet, find plastic flamingos and pictures of Mr. T!
Craft Beer
Over 40 craft beer bars thrive in Warsaw, and you’ll find them all listed on the ontap.pl app – below find a few of the best…
Cuda Na Kiju
ul. Nowy Świat 6/12
It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused. Though less experimental than other tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.
BROWAR WARSZAWSKI
ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 When it comes to beer, Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!
CZEŚĆ
ul. Grzybowska 2 It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap?
JABEERWOCKY
ul. Nowogrodzka 12 Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks from home (inc. their own namesake brewery).
KUFLE I KAPSLE
ul. Nowogrodzka 25 Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The beer selection can be brilliantly radical.
PINTA
ul. Chmielna 7/9 Find a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and bits of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant.. SAME KRAFTY ul. Nowomiejska 10 Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA
Taste The Exotic
For flavors that go beyond the norm, look to the following to brighten your day…
Japonka
ul. Grzybowska 56
Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!
BASIL & LIME
ul. Oboźna 9 One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara.
BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE
ul. Nowy Świat 58 Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.
CEVICHE BAR
With Argentine chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.
GURU
ul. Widok 8 The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the Indian competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!
JOEL SHARING CONCEPT
ul. Koszykowa 1 Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin.
LE CEDRE
Al. Solidarności 61 & 84 With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise,
just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.
KARMA
ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II) Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donutshaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa.
PAŃSKA 85
ul. Pańska 85 Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.
THE COOL CAT
ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent.
K-BAR
ul. Piękna 28/34 Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss.
UKI UKI
ul. Krucza 23/31 How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out udon noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.
HIDING TO SURVIVE
A thought-provoking exhibition reveals how Jews hid during WWII…
It goes without saying that Poland knows a thing or two about war. To this day, evidence of the last conflict can be seen easily at every footstep: from bullet scars on buildings to estates set on war rubble via the almost uncountable number of markers and memorials. But there is also more, a side that is less visible, a side found in the attics, cellars, caves, trees and even tombs that were used during the Holocaust as secretive hiding holes.
It is these that are the subject of the current exhibition at the Zachęta Gallery. Based on research conducted by Natalia Romik and Aleksandra Janus together with a team of anthropologists, historians, archaeologists and urban explorers, Romik’s project is a tribute to the daily hardships endured by those that hid and those that helped them. Together, these groups are often overlooked in our quest to find heroes and leaders, yet it is those unnamed individuals that arguably do the most illustrate the humanity and solidarity of those times.
Simultaneously, this exhibition rises to the problem of commemorating ‘invisible architecture’ whilst also presenting models that connote places of seclusion. These can also be read in a broader existential perspective, for instance as being illustrative of the tragedies faced by refugees and those that give them shelter.
On prominent display as you enter, view a cast of a 650-yearold oak tree that provided safety for two brothers during the war; one of nine hideouts that have been molded before being cast and covered in silver, these objects are presented in the manner of striking modern art that causes visitors to pause and consider both the ingenuity of those that hid, as well as the wickedness of their situation.
The dichotomy of this exhibition is balanced between these wonderful casts and information about each which include photos, maps, and video testimonials from living witnesses. Interestingly, five of the hideouts shown were found in Ukraine, and they lend another angle as one considers the atrocities currently being committed. The gallery will also offer walks to the Jewish Cemetery where an existing hideout still remains unchanged from eighty-years ago.
It is estimated that during the Second World War, in occupied Poland, about 50,000 Jews survived by hiding on the Aryan side.
In total, about 250,000–350,000 Jews survived the war — about 10 percent of the Jewish population of pre-war Poland.
Zachęta Gallery
Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl
THE ROYAL TREATMENT
Apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski in The Tin-Roofed Palace
Prince Józef Poniatowski (1763-1813) was the nephew of the last king of Poland, Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski. He was called "Pepi" from childhood until death, which term of endearment was used by the king, family and the whole nation. Already as a teenager, he was a passionate cavalryman who would don a uniform of the Crown Horse Guard. As a youth he became famous in social salons for his entertainment lifestyle. He would frequently be seen rushing through the streets of Warsaw driving a two-wheeled cart, so-called "convertible", at times harnessed to as many as eight horses. Prince Józef Poniatowski was the object of attention of the fair sex from aristocratic and bourgeois circles, and he often exploited his glamour. He established an informal club of young Warsaw-based aristocrats in The Tin-Roofed Palace and in his second, summer palace in Jabłonna. Tennis was the prince's favourite sport and billiards was his preferred social pastime. Pepi loved spinach, which was served to him every day. Green was one of his favourite colours, used both in interiors and in his clothes.
He received The Tin-Roofed Palace from his uncle, King Stanislaus Augustus, on 13 December 1794. In 1789 he moved in there with his sister Maria Teresa Tyszkiewicz, née Poniatowska, and his friend, Countess Henrietta de Vauban, a French émigré who did the honours of the housewife of the palace. The prince's sister occupied some of the rooms on the ground floor of the palace, while Ms de Vauban had her own apartment in the garden pavilion adjacent to the south wing. After 1798,
Photographs above left: Kancelaria Wojenna (War Office), right: Kancelaria Sztabowa (Headquarters Office). All photographs courtesy of The Royal Castle in Warsaw
the palace became the main salon of Warsaw and was used for sumptuous parties, balls and theatre performances.
After the Napoleonic army entered Warsaw, in 1807 Prince Józef was appointed Minister of War and Commander-in-Chief of the Polish Armed Forces of the Duchy of Warsaw. From that time on, the interiors of the palace (including its annexes), apart from residential functions, housed the War Office employing 140 military officials, an armoury and the first intelligence office in Poland. In the defensive war of 1809, the prince successfully used a bold plan to strike at the back of the Austrian army. He became famous for his bravado bayonet attack, a pipe in his mouth, in the battle of Raszyn in the foreground of Warsaw. Józef Poniatowski was an extremely modest, demanding and honourable commander.
He set out for the Russian campaign in 1812 with only one wagon of rolling stock, while other generals owned many more of them. During bivouacs he ate on plates made of "English sheet metal". His horseback inspections of the camp and the troops started as early as 3 am. In the military campaign he was accompanied by 36 horses. "Worshipped" by soldiers and officers, as well as veterans, whom he received on many occasions in the palace, after 1812 he spent his salary on a pension for the Moscow campaign veterans. It was in the courtyard of The Tin-Roofed Palace that after the Moscow campaign in December 1812 the remainder of the Polish corps presented to the prince the saved banners of the Polish army.
Prince Joseph commanded the Polish army in the victorious battles of Zieleńce (18 June 1792), Raszyn (19 April 1809), Smolensk (16-18 August 1812), Borodino (5-7 September 1812), and Vinkovo (18 October 1812). As the commander-in-chief of the 8th corps of the Grand Army, he led his soldiers in 1813 via Saxony, defending a range of Bohemian mountains and fighting on the left-hand bank of the Elbe. He maintained his positions despite the advance of overpowering enemy troops at Löbau (9 September 1813), led a cavalry charge and took captive hundreds of enemy soldiers at Zedtlitz (10 October 1813). He was the only foreigner to be appointed by Napoleon Marshal of France (16 October 1813). Shielding the retreat of the French army on 19 October 1813, he died in the Battle of the Nations at Leipzig.
The Tin-Roofed Palace was not ruined during the Second World War and retained its original walls; the bombardment destroyed only the ceilings. During the renovation carried out in 2005-2008, a ceremonial staircase leading from the ground floor to the first floor was reinstalled in the building. It was on the first floor that Prince Józef's apartment was restored in its former location and layout.
Brought to you by
Rising Museum
SPOTLIGHT: NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM
Held in virtual format for the last two years, May sees the return of one of the city’s most-loved cultural extravaganzas: the Night of Museums…
BACKGROUND Celebrating its 18th edition, Night of Museums has grown from a minor event (the first edition saw 16,000 people file through eleven venues) to a mighty juggernaut attracting well in excess of 200,000 people. What is it? In essence, on the evening of May 14th you’ll find scores of museums, galleries and institutions flinging their doors open to the public and laying on a feast of nighttime attractions, reenactments and performances to add a twist to the usual experience. With the last proper installment featuring in excess of 230 venues, this year is expected to rival it in size.
WHAT’S ON While most venues had yet to reveal their plans at press time, keep an eye out for the comprehensive guidebook published by City Hall in the days leading up to NoM. Available in print (47,000 Polish-language copies, 4,000 English-language copies) and online in PDF format (check for updates on: um.warszawa.pl), this essential booklet lists all participating venues and associated events. Its scope is mind-boggling – miss it at your peril.
GETTING ABOUT As per tradition, the city will be bringing out a fleet of vintage vehicles from retirement and lay on a range of free transport options enabling you to zip from place-toplace in retro style. Expect historic trams to be rolled-out, as well as antiquated Ikarus and Ogórek buses (so-named on account of their gherkin-style shape). These are expected to run from 6.30 p.m. till 2 a.m.
STRATEGY No matter where you go, expect crowds. If you don’t fancy being caught in ever stretching queues then use the opportunity to visit Warsaw’s lesser-known museums – frequently, it’s these unsung gems that prove to be the biggest surprise. Further, use the booklet produced by City Hall to your advantage to check out opening times. If you’re visiting the capital’s star attractions, then you’re often better off saving them till last when the visiting hordes have dwindled. The real stars though are one-off attractions usually closed to the public: places like the Mayor’s office, embassies, the waterworks, TV and radio stations, secret bunkers, etc.
TAKE PART It’s widely expected that, as in previous years, culture vultures will be able to take part in a game that will challenge their ‘knowledge, speed and dexterity’. Aside from answering questions and fulfilling various tasks, visitors will be battling against each other to visit as many museums as possible in the allotted time. So far, the record stands at 19 museums in five hours.
BE PREPARED Imagine queueing for an hour only to be told you’re not getting in because you haven’t got ID: well, it has happened! A number of the more secretive institutions (among them, the Filtry Waterworks) require visitors to provide photographic ID.
learning
preschools
AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org
BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW
A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.
THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE
Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22 646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL
Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl
CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL
(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl
THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW
Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,
warsaw montessori family
Warsaw Montessori Schools
Accepting applications for our programs and locations:
Infant & Toddler
Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19
Casa dei Bambini
Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek Elementary
Szwoleżerów 4
„Erdkinder” Middle School
Tatrzańska 5a
Montessori High School
Pytlasińskiego 13a
Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl
