Exploring ul. Lwowska

SPOTLIGHT: LWOWSKA

Always pretty, but always pretty boring, Lwowska street is finally having its day thanks to a rash of recent openings that have handed it new life. Could this yet become ‘the new Poznańska’?

GANON RAMEN BAR

Lwowska 9 Subway tiles and concrete colors dominate this locale, and despite the slightly bare aesthetics its tiny size generates an atmosphere of warm, neighborly intimacy. Clearly ramen is the big seller here, and choices number a spicy pork tonkotsu served with a peeled tomato and an Insta-friendly vegan winner featuring mushrooms, asparagus and celery chips in a frothy broth of Jerusalem artichokes and mushrooms. What else? For people that don’t enjoy slurping in public, instead order the gyoza dumplings or the pillowy soft bao bun with bacon. The little details here are great, and we include the Hata carbonated soft drinks that open with a pop.

COPHI II

Lwowska 2A Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska. And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, this nook is made all the better by the presence of a limited edition Conti Monaco coffee machine.

LOVAGE BISTRO

Lwowska 9 Seemingly run by a mega friendly team of young Ukrainians, Lovage does indeed have much to love. Squirreled down a short set of steps, find yourself inside a tiny little cavern filled with pre-war floors, bare bulbs and exposed brickwork. Small but perfectly formed, food is Spanish accented and revolves around tapas dishes (some of which are more successful than others), as well as a trio of paellas and some commendable ribs. Cocktails are cheap by Warsaw standards and don’t climb over 20, while other tipples include Lagosta ice wine and the sweet and fruity Pomegrigio. Above all though, it is the atmosphere you’ll love the most – this place is designed to turn your day around and send you home feeling good with the world.

MISS BANH MI

Lwowska 9 Former model Nina learned from the best: her parents. Harnessing the family’s secret recipes, she’s used these to her advantage to carve a name as one Warsaw’s street food legends. First catching our eye at the seasonal Nocny Market, she’s transferred those tastes to this bricks-andmortar joint. Glowing warmly from the outside, step inside this small, steamy unit to order banh mi served on her freshly-baked homemade bread. Our fave: the pulled chicken with lime leaves. Boasting an after-taste that can be called ‘distinct’, coffee with egg is Nina’s secret hack for the perfect experience.

BEER STATION CENTRUM

Lwowska 17 A proper pub whose international audience is dominated by exiled Belarussians and Ukrainians – the pre-Lukashenko flag and yellow-andblue banner posed behind the bar should tell you all about what side the Belarussian owners support. Traipsing down a plunging set of stairs, visitors reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness and shouts. Often rowdy and raucous but in a way that’s hugely friendly, nights here get loud and messy with both guys and girls hellbent on merriment. Drinks-wise, the choice involves mainstream Czech and German imports, as well as Polish craft weirdness and occasional guests from Poland’s eastern borderlands.

WOK MY WORLD

Warsaw’s seen Thai street food before, but rarely of this caliber…

BACKGROUND Recently relocated from the legendary Arkada (that slightly seedy-looking two-level shopping gallery under Poniatowski Bridge), to a historic tollbooth on Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, Ahaan is drawing their devoted customers to higher ground. Serving mostly authentic street food from northern Thailand, that transpires to mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and earthy flavors. Feeling different to Warsaw’s other Thai options, Ahaan is a fresh alternative and has breathed new life into one of Warsaw’s most iconic roundabouts.

TAKE A DISH For our choice, consider the Pad kra pao, a traditional dish found in both northern and southern of Thailand. Featuring stir fried rice with a choice of pork, beef, bacon or tofu, it comes with long beans and a fried savory egg on top. That the owners have also sourced holy basil, a much sought-after ingredient, speaks much for their passion. With this essential element costing around zł. 80 per kilo, you know Ahaan are serious when they blab about being authentic.

INSIDER TIPS • While the dish itself is flavorful and the egg can be considered a treasure of pleasure with its delicate textures and hints of fish sauce, the dish is even better when you spice it up using the accompanying jars on the table.

• Sure to be a summer hit, keep your eyes peeled for the forthcoming addition of a 70 sq/m summer garden. That should have already debuted by the time this mag returns from the printing press.

AHAAN Thai Street Food

First Bite

Eter Vegan Bakery

ul. Hoża 5/7, fb.com/eterveganbakery

YOU’RE THE SWEETEST

Looks can be deceiving. Walking inside Eter, most visitors will remark on the cold sterility of the place: large, concrete and anonymous, it’s sparingly decorated with a few scattered succulents, some retro armchairs and a portrait of a bubblegum blowing Mona Lisa. Looking at it, it’s redolent of the entrance lobby of a commie residential block.

Despite that, no-one walks out, and that’s on account of desserts that are earning a name as things you’d be prepared to die for. Though steep in price, the quality is indisputable even if the quantity is not – visit late in the day and the counter will be all but empty. Truly though, these things are forgiven for Warsaw has not seen desserts like this before.

Offering a range of cheesecakes, meringues, croissants, pavlovas, donuts, muffins and cupcakes, the tastes are staggering and fully justify the cost. Made with premium, vegan ingredients, Eter hits the bull’s eye, with our thumbs up going to the strawberry tartlet, and an insanely sinful chocolate cake with crispy nuts in salted caramel. This place might not look like much at first, but the proof is in the pudding. Brilliant.

PHO REAL!

Vietnamese food gets a southern loving touch in this north Warsaw standout…

PREMISE Buoyed by waves of immigration that go back decades, Warsaw has no shortage of Vietnamese eateries – unbelievably almost, all have so far focused on the cuisine of the north. Hoping to redress the balance somewhat, Spice & You heave the spotlight onto the other end of the country, a part where Chinese, Thai, Cambodian and French influences are evident. According to the owner, Tuan, it is food that is bolder, and more expressive in its taste.

“The friendly climate and fertile soil favor the variety of vegetables and fruits there,” he says. “Due to their abundance, there’ll always be fresh herbs and vegetables, and this makes flavors of the south all the more intense.”

Striving first and foremost to reproduce Saigon’s street tastes, Spice & You is a space whose menu cherishes the nuances and values of this ancient cuisine. “Our philosophy is guided by a Vietnamese saying,” says Tuan. “We do not want this restaurant to visited by a thousand different guests, but for one guest to visit it a thousand times.”

THE PLACE From the outside, Spice & You doesn’t naturally draw you in – located on the ground floor of a dreary, commie era residential block, it’s easy to bypass it without second thought. But if it feels a bit discouraging at first glance, then spirits lift the moment you enter. Set with colorful silk lanterns dangling from the ceilings, it’s a place in which you

Spice & You

Al. Jana Pawła II 65, spiceandyou.com

feel immediately at home. Well dimensioned – neither too big nor too small – and fitted out with dark green furnishings, fresh white walls, hardwood floors and huge windows, the space feels casual, smart and well thought-out.

DRINKS If you weren’t aware, Vietnam is the second biggest exporter of coffee in the world, and this fixation with caffeine manifests itself in the form of a coffee culture that feels highly ritualistic. Served in a so-called ‘phin’ filter, coffee is brewed in super slow-motion, but rewards patience with its sweet, strong flavors. Of the other liquid standouts, the mango milkshake is recommended as a dessert, and you’ll soon learn why. Thick, cooling and refreshing, it’s an indulgent way to end your evening.

FOOD There’s no skimping on ingredients here. Whilst most Vietnamese joints in Poland like the frequent shortcut, that’s not an option at Spice & You. “Most places will use Polish white cabbage,” says Tuan, “but here you’ll only find Vietnamese taro potatoes.”

With this food tasting better when shared, visitors should understand the generous approach to portioning and take advantage of that to arrive in numbers and order a smattering of random choices. Using exactly that strategy, for us that meant beginning with shrimp summer rolls wrapped in rice paper, loaded with herbs and then dipped in a peanut sauce of such magisterial glory that the world stops spinning. “These are a grab and go staple of Saigon,” says Tuan, and you understand why.

There’s also bún bò, an aromatic broth with boiled beef, spring onions, coriander, rice noodles and fresh herbs and veg. Catapulted into western conscience by Gordon Ramsay, it’s a dish that encourages diners to play around with spices to customize their preferred heat level.

Also playing a star turn on the menu is the bánh khọt, a plate of mini pancakes made with rice flour, coconut milk and turmeric. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, these little treasures are eaten in one bite and come with a choice of fillings that include mushroom, tofu and carrot; pork; or shrimp. And, of course, find also a range of pho soups and other such classics of Vietnam.

FINAL WORD An immensely enjoyable experience, at Spice & You it is the vibrance of Vietnamese food culture that really strikes home. A carnival of textures and flavors, these disparate elements are harmonized to form a coherent and delicious whole. In a city filled with sub-par Vietnamese options, Spice & You soars above the competition to provide something truly memorable and authentic.