The Alchemist • Issue 7 • Winter 2017

WHISKY A-GO-GO

From barrel to bottle to book

WINTER SPICE

Aquavit moves up

RE-UP

Reviving the Sidecar

BUY B.C.

Distillery listings and tasting notes

COCKTAIL

HAPPY HOUR

DAILY 5-7PM | SUN-THU 12-1PM

7 Cocktails - 4 Fernet Branca

08 – GOLDEN OLDIE

How to make the perfect Old Fashioned

by Fiona Morrow

16 – STAR ANI SE

The Scandinavian spirit that’s making waves in B.C. by

Janet Gyenes

22 – TH E CO SM OP OLI TA N

Our man at the bar takes a walk on the Southside by John

Burns

26 – R OLL OU T TH E BARREL

How Central City has made the leap from brewing to distilling by Joe

Wiebe

31 – A PPLE S , SAUCED

From fresh fruit to hard cider, apples will make your home bar cocktails sing by Justin

Taylor

35 – SMOO TH OPE RAT OR

The Sidecar is ready for its revival by Joanne

Sasvari

40 – WHIS KY BU S INESS

Canadian whisky authority Davin de Kergommeaux on the rise of micro-distilleries

by Fiona Morrow

42 – ST ILL LIFE

The business of barreling brown spirits

by Charlene Rooke

46-58 – D I STILLE R Y LI STINGS

Our guide to B.C. distilleries with tasting notes by our expert panel

Dan Toulgoet photo

Jonathan Norton photo

Danika Sea photo

Contributors

John Burns has been writing about politics, culture and food for more than 25 years. In that time, he’s found most dishes and drinks a) too sweet, b) too salty, or c) both. Those rare times when things are just right please him, therefore, all the more.

Joanne Sasvari is a Vancouverbased writer who covers food, drink and travel for a variety of publications, including weekly drinks columns for the Vancouver Sun and Westender.

Janet Gyenes is a travel writer, editor and beverage columnist. Her articles and photography covering everything from cocktails to kayaking have been published in a range of print and digital publications.

Justin Taylor has been mixing it up behind the bars of Toronto and Vancouver for almost two decades. He is currently general manager of The Cascade Room in Vancouver.

Charlene Rooke is a certified Specialist of Spirits and a Moonshine University-trained craft distiller who writes for enRoute, Taste and Food & Drink. She drinks stirred rye Manhattans on the rocks.

Joe Wiebe is the author of Craft Beer Revolution: The Insider’s Guide to B.C. Breweries. He is the producer of Victoria Beer Week and the content director of the BC Ale Trail project. In between, he occasionally sips a small glass of Canadian whisky.

Asthe list of B.C. distilleries with products on shelves continues to grow apace — with some dozen or more still busy setting up — we take a look at the long-term goal of many: bringing whisky to market. We talk to B.C. distillers about their whisky business plans, and ask where our local small-batch distillers sit in the wider Canadian whisky eco-space.

And there’s more: we discover the amazing lengths Scandinavians take to age their aquavit, learn the history of the much debased Sidecar cocktail, and rustle up a quartet of apple-based drinks for you to try at home.

Launching with this issue is our new online home, thealchemistmagazine.ca, where we not only provide our full tasting notes and features archive, but keep you up to date on B.C.’s cocktail culture and spirits industry.

Cheers!

Fiona Morrow, Editor

ON THE COVER:

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

EDITOR: Fiona Morrow fmorrow@thealchemist.ca

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

MANAGER: Tara Rafiq

LISTINGS/WEB/ SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Jan Zeschky jzeschky@glaciermedia.ca

CONTRIBUTING

PHOTOGRAPHERS: Danika Sea, Dan Toulgoet

ILLUSTRATOR: Ryan Mitson

TheAlchemistMagazine.ca

@TheAlchemistBC

@TheAlchemistMag

Published by:

Glacier Community Media

303 West 5th Avenue, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 604-742-8678

© The Alchemist 2017

The Madame Colet by Sabrine Dhaliwal, a complex and pensive cocktail inspired by the 1932 film Trouble in Paradise Recipe at thealchemistmagazine.ca Photo: Dan Toulgoet. Location: Uva Wine & Cocktail Bar. Prop: Kentwood. This issue is complimentary.

Dan Toulgoet photo at The Diamond.

Golden oldie

THE NAME MAY SOUND DATED, BUT THE O LD FASHIONED REMAINS A CLASSIC F OR A REASON. THE ALCHEMIS T ASKED S ABRINE D HALIWAL, B AR M ANAGER AT U VA, TO LET US IN ON ITS SECRETS.

The Old Fashioned is amazing — simple and complex at the same time. On paper it is minimal — spirit, bitters, sugar and water (via the dilution of ice) — but what is critical for an Old Fashioned is getting that balance right. You get the balance right, you have a beautiful cocktail, but if you don’t, there’s nowhere to hide. The fewer the ingredients in a cocktail, the more skill needed to make it.

First, taste your spirit before you start. After a while you get used to what a spirit tastes like, but if you’re using Bulleit or Buffalo Trace bourbon to make your Old Fashioned, and

then someone asks for one using a Rittenhouse Rye, the balance shifts because they have very different taste profiles and alcohol percentages — you need to understand how much dilution you need, how much bitters. The cookie-cutter recipe won’t help you to really make your Old Fashioned stand out; to complement it successfully, you need to really understand the whisky at your base.

If the drinker doesn’t specify a whisky, I would ask questions. Would you like your Old Fashioned to be a little bit spicier, or more round and smooth? If they say spicier, I’ll use a whisky with a higher rye content, or I might go with

a straight rye Old Fashioned. If they want something a little richer and rounder, I’ll pick something with a higher corn content, or maybe even a peated whisky, just to give it that lusciousness.

Everyone has their little touches and tweaks that make their Old Fashioned slightly different, but given that Uva is high volume, we cheat a little bit

and use simple syrup instead of sugar to speed things up. I free pour how much sugar I use based on the whisky I’m making the cocktail with — somewhere between 0.1 to 0.25 of an ounce — then at least two dashes of bitters. We use Kensington Aromatic bitters from Bittered Sling, which are very dry compared to the clove and vanilla-heavy Angostura. The Kensington bitters are just lovely —

Dan Toulgoet

photo

Sabrine Dhaliwal stirs up a classic.

I AM A BIT O F A PURIST WHEN IT COMES TO DEVIATING F ROM THE BASE RECIPE: I F YOU’RE GOING TO CALL IT AN O LD FASHIONED, IT SHOULD BE AN O LD FASHIONED.

they have a lot more orris root and cinnamon — and then we add the whisky and the ice and then stir for probably around 10 to 15 seconds, depending on the spirit.

We use the larger cube ice: I make Old Fashioneds anywhere and everywhere, and how long I stir my cocktail is dependent on the size of the ice. The bigger the ice, the more lenient you can be with your time; the smaller the cubes, the quicker it melts, and the faster you want to get the ice out.

I am a bit of a purist when it comes to deviating from the base recipe: if you’re going to call it an Old Fashioned, it should be an Old Fashioned. To me, the Old Fashioned is a very specific drink — like a Martini, the drink has a very particular profile that I expect to find in my glass. But, if you’re going to call it a re-fashioned or a Saskatoon Old Fashioned… If you’re going to give it a different name, absolutely, go for it, and I will try it.

As told to Fiona Morrow.

Dan Toulgoet photo

Know your whisky before beginning to mix your drink.

OLD F ASHIONED

The classic whisky cocktail

2 oz Bu alo Trace bourbon

1 tsp granulated sugar

2 dashes Bittered Sling

Kensington Aromatic Bitters

Orange twist and brandied cherry for garnish

Add the sugar to an Old Fashioned glass, wet with bitters and (if using a sugar cube) muddle to dissolve. Add bourbon and a single large ice cube, stir for eight to 10 seconds and garnish with an orange twist and a brandied cherry. *If you are using regular ice cubes, build and stir in a mixing glass and strain before serving.

—by Sabrine Dhaliwal

Dan Toulgoet photo

Class rules

C ANADA’S D IAGEO W ORLD C LASS SUCCESS HAS MUCH TO DO WITH NATIONAL PROGRAM TO EDUCATE AND INSPIRE BARTENDERS

Vancouver made cocktail headlines around the world in August when Kaitlyn Stewart was named bartender of the year at the Diageo World Class competition.

The Royal Dinette bartender’s feat was extraordinary, topping a field of 56 mixologists from around the world during a gruelling four days of competition in Mexico City.

But Stewart isn’t a one-hit wonder for Canada. Since they first entered the global competition five years ago, Canadians have ranked consistently high, says Michael Armistead, World Class Canada lead with Diageo Canada. Previous World Class Canada winners include Jenner Cormier (2013), Grant Sceney (2014), Lauren Mote (2015) and Shane Mulvany (2016). Canada’s

growing profile in the global cocktail community is testament to the thriving scenes of Vancouver and Toronto — and strong emerging markets, Montreal and Halifax — but also to the work Armistead and his team undertake as part of the wider World Class program.

“We’re really proud of the program in Canada,” Armistead says. “We’ve developed it to the point where we are a year-round program focused not just on the competition but also on bartender education.”

That includes training modules and workshops, which frequently feature brand owners or ambassadors as well as past World Class national winners. Masterclasses focus on Diageo Reserve brands — sector-leading and awardwinning drinks including Johnnie Walker, Tanqueray, Ketel One and Bulleit — but also investigate the category as a whole.

The program is designed to educate and inspire bartenders to better practise their trade and spread the gospel of cocktail culture. The public, too, can get a taste of the “World Class experience” at pop-up bar events held around the workshops, while Armistead also creates an annual book featuring recipes by the national World Class winner using Diageo Reserve brands, which are built on strong heritage, craftsmanship and authenticity.

“The idea of the program is to try to demystify cocktails — much like chefs have done on TV with cooking — to enable and inspire people to make cocktails at home; rather than just the spirit and mix, get a little bit more adventurous,” Armistead says.

It helps that bartenders are a social bunch whose enthusiasm is infectious. Facilitated by social media networks, the tight-knit community of bartenders across Canada — and the world — is remarkable, Armistead adds.

Even on the biggest stage, competitors will help each other out and cheer each other on. It makes for a fun, if intense, atmosphere during the World Class final. Armistead has attended for the past two years, having helped assemble the team accompanying Canada’s representative.

“I’ve never known euphoria like it this year, it was a special experience to be part of,” he says.

For over a decade, Chambar has been known as not only a destination restaurant famous for its Belgian and Moroccan-in uenced cuisine, but also as a cocktail mecca that has attracted and nurtured some of the city’s top talent.

With a fantastic kitchen that produces bold avoured dishes, the bar program works collaboratively to uphold these avours, while being rooted in storytelling. The classic cocktail world is extremely dynamic; there are beverages that have outlasted multiple wars, multiple countries. The stories of the cocktails add interesting complexity to Chambar’s well considered list. Every cocktail is perishable art.

Ittakes about three seconds for a shot of ice-cold aquavit to pass your lips and slide down your throat, leaving its distinctive hit of caraway and liquorice tingling on your tongue and introducing a pleasing warmth into your belly. The Swedish Shot, as it is known — raise your glass, lock eyes with your fellow toasters and drink up — is swift and satisfying.

“The Swedes use a song to celebrate. It serves as a historical ritual and cultural

Star Anise

H OW A S CANDINAVIAN CLASSIC IS WARMING HEARTS IN B.C.

by Janet Gyenes

drink,” says Long Table Distillery’s Charles Tremewen.

Whether named aquavit, akvavit or akevitt, the Scandinavian spirit has bubbled up at distilleries all over North America and is emerging in the global cocktail scene. “Aquavit is not far from gin. It’s a creative spirit whose foundations lie in caraway and dill,” Tremewen says, noting that in Denmark, these strong, spicy notes are played up hard.

AQUAVIT IS NOT FAR FROM GIN. IT’S A CREATIVE SPIRIT WHOSE FOUNDATIONS LIE IN CARAWAY AND DILL.

Tremewen prefers a smoother, Swedishstyle profile for his Långbord Akvavit, forgoing the dill in favour of caraway, fennel, Seville orange and, of course, anise. Meanwhile, Okanagan Spirits’ Aquavitus Aquavit earned Double Gold at the 2015 World Spirits Awards (held in Denmark) with its assertive blend of caraway, dill, coriander, anise, fennel and gin staple, juniper. On Vancouver Island, Sheringham Distillery gives its aquavit a briny bite from incorporating locally harvested kelp.

Stalwart Norwegian distillery Linie stays true to its 1805 tradition, distilling potatoes for its base spirit, which is infused with spices such as caraway

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

Though the Swedes and Danes treat aquavit as a white spirit, to be drunk straight from the freezer, store your sea-aged Linie that way and risk ire: the Norwegians consider such treatment sacrilege.

and star anise and then left to age in Oloroso sherry casks. The barrels are stowed as cargo on ships for four months, travelling from Norway to Australia (and back), ultimately aging for 16 months before being bottled.

There’s method in this madness: according to Linie, the ship’s constant movement, along with the changing temperatures and humidity at sea, balances the spirit’s spices and cask aromas, giving it “unparalleled smoothness.”

In the U.K., Cottonopolis in Manchester pays homage to Linie’s particular process with It Came From Beneath the Sea, a bold cocktail combining the

Three local aquavits from B.C. distilleries.

aquavit with sake, sea salt, lemon, squid ink and a spray of Peat Monster whisky. In New York City, the much-vaunted Dead Rabbit bar serves the equally upfront Smart Alec (aquavit, Calvados, manzanilla sherry, dessert wine, cinnamon and celery bitters).

Back in B.C., bartenders are also embracing the spicy spirit. Wildebeest in Vancouver unites Sheringham aquavit with French vermouth, Amaro Montenegro and rosemary, crowning

ST O MA C H S E TT LE R

Caraway, aquavit’s distinctive Scandinavian spice, was originally added to the spirit’s base as a natural cure for indigestion.

the Don’t Call Me Shirley! with a smoked olive. Just blocks away, the Diamond bar offers two cocktails with aquavit — one with tawny port, Italian vermouth, orange, tonic and cold-brew coffee; the other, the King’s Trident, brings both Cynar amaro and manzanilla sherry to the party.

“I think because [aquavit] has so much character it lends itself to be a good base for a cocktail,” says Tremewen. In December, he plans to launch a barrelaged aquavit rested in rye casks from Woodinville Whiskey in Washington. But for now he says, he’s content to keep the Långbord chilled and sip it neat, savouring the spices and a hint of sweetness from the Seville orange.

“This spirit simply warms you from the inside.”

Linie ages its spirit on the high seas.

D ON’ T CA LL ME S HIR LEY!

1.3 oz Sheringham Akvavit

0.3 oz Amaro Montenegro

0.3 oz Noilly Pratt Extra Dry

Combine ingredients into a shaker filled with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe glass rimmed with a rosemary solution (salt, water, rosemary). Garnish with a smoked olive.

This cocktail is an ode to the town of Shirley on Vancouver Island, whose name was shortened from Sheringham in order to fit on a postage stamp.

Jonathan Norton photo

B.C.’s original harvest-to-flask distillery

Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery is proud to be Western Canada’s original craft distillery, and BC’s only distillery with two fully functioning distillery locations (Vernon & Kelowna). The family owned and operated distillery sprung from the idea of using 100% locally grown fruits and grains to make premium, world-class spirits just a tractor ride away from the orchards and fields where the base ingredients are grown. B.C.’s original harvest-to-flask distillery now offers a selection of more than 30 internationally awarded spirits ranging from BC’s first Single Malt and Bourbon-Style Whiskies, to Gins, Vodkas, Liqueurs, Fruit Brandies, and even Aquavit and Canada’s Original Genuine Absinthe.

The Dyck Family, proprietors of Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery, firmly believe that terroir specificity is the cornerstone of true craft distillation. They strive to capture the Okanagan Valley’s fields and orchards, and the many micro-regions and seasons in every single vintage. Their story starts with harvesting only local Okanagan fruits and grains to ensure that the spirits they present are as authentically local as their very own Okanagan Family heritage.

In early 2015, Okanagan Spirits relocated and redesigned their flagship Vernon distillery, which is now home to North America’s tallest copper pot still, set in beautifully decorated prohibition

era surroundings. Both of their distillery locations have onsite Barrel-Room distillery lounges and patios to offer their guests a true 100% BC craft cocktail experience.

What’s next for Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery? In a word…Whisky!

The crew at Okanagan Spirits continues to expand their whisky repertoire, to include their lottery release “Laird of Fintry” Single Malt Whisky (Gold medal 2015 and 2017 World Spirits Awards), their BC Coldstream Valley Rye Whisky, their “Final Proof” Master Distiller Series Whisky (Silver Medal 2015 World Spirits Awards), and their hugely successful BRBN Bourbon-Style BC Corn Whisky.

Okanagan Spirits Craft Distillery has named 2017 “The Year of BRBN” with releases of BC’s first and only 100% Local Craft Bourbon-Style Whisky scheduled quarterly throughout the year!

THE COSMOPOLITAN

O UR MAN AT THE BAR, JOHN BURNS , SAVOURS A S OUTHSIDE AS HE MULLS THE VALUE O F DRINKING LOCAL

Barstools are for boasting. And when you’re alone, they’re for woolgathering, your privacy on public display. Random thoughts assail you — unless you’re just there to watch the game, which is fine but for the purposes of this column let’s assume no high-def.

I’m at a bar now, in fact, just me and no TV, making notes on napkins the way you do. This is not unusual. Over the last 18 months I’ve warmed my share of seats, and I’ve written about some of the highlights in these pages, usually from notes on the backs of napkins very like this one. Those 18 months happen to have included a fair amount of travel, and so the cocktails I’ve described have often gone down in other cities, in bars very like this one.

Travelling so much has built for me a little ritual, which I’ve only just discerned. Funny how habits start and then set. Lots of the cities I travel to are — no offence meant — Tier 2 stops on the cocktail circuit. Cheyenne, Wyoming. Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Minneapolis, Minnesota. That last one is where I am now, and great town though it is, it’s not overrun with excellent

and unique drinking spots. (Beer, yes. Surly Brewing makes some fine ales.) So let me tell you how I wound up here. Someday, it might save you from the lobby bar of the Marriott, in which case I’ve done you a mitzvah.

I’m not one for stanchions or velvet ropes or Instagrammer hordes. I like old bars, history, a patina. I know age doesn’t guarantee competency, but I figure it’s not a bad place to start. Minneapolis has its share of old-timers, and it was some combination of location (I like to walk a few kilometres, to work up a thirst), online reviews, and longevity that made me pick the Monte Carlo (est. 1906). Walking in the door of this old-school steakhouse, I was not disappointed. I’d read about its pressed tin ceiling, vinyl booths, floral wallpaper, the copper bar that’s propped up a million elbows. But I hadn’t counted on waitresses (yes, waitresses — the Monte Carlo has never hired a server in its long, long life) in little black French maid dresses with white aprons. I hadn’t counted on bartenders who’ve been pouring drinks since the ’70s. It was perfect.

B ARSTOOLS ARE F OR BOASTING. A ND

I ordered a Southside (gin, lime juice, simple syrup, mint) for a couple of reasons. In my mind, it’s a Midwestern drink, though Manhattan’s “21” Club lays claim to it, subbing in lemon and soda. Also, I wanted to try one of the spirits from the city’s awarded Tattersall Distilling; their gin doesn’t disappoint — citrusy, clean, with a wonderful nose (but an abrupt finish). But mainly, I was on the hunt for what the internet assured me is Minneapolis’s only native cocktail.

This is another peculiarity of my travelling ritual. To recap: find an old watering hole. Avoid TVs. Sit at the bar. Make friends with the barkeep (obviously). Order the city’s pride and joy. That’s easy when it’s a Sazerac in New Orleans or a Zombie in L.A. But try the Twin Cities. Research persuaded me the Bootleg is the city’s native son. It sounds kind of awful — a Rickey often made with frozen lemonade concentrate and whatever liquor is to hand — but who am I to argue with history? They’re ubiquitous in the region’s country clubs and unheard of outside them. My bartender remembers them well from their peak in the ’80s. He worked with a fellow who made them, and was kind enough to consult his recipe book: vodka and gin, 7Up and sour mix, lemon and simple syrup. Were they any good? I ask. Meh, he says. People ordered them.

I stick with my Southsides and keep gathering wool.

WHEN YOU’RE ALONE, THEY’RE F OR WOOL-GATHERING

Illustration by Ryan Mitson

Bags of quality

A UNTS & U NCLES AND B ROOKLYN C LOTHING BELIEVE IN DURABLE F ASHION THAT ONLY GETS BETTER WITH AGE

In this increasingly fast-paced, disposable society, quality products that are crafted to last are a reassuring reminder of how things can improve with age. It could be a single malt whisky maturing for a couple of decades, a carefully cellared Bordeaux, or that go-to pair of jeans or bag that never lets you down.

They need not even be a luxury. Brooklyn Clothing has been selling high-quality men’s fashion and accessories out of its Davie Street store since 2003. But high quality doesn’t come at designer prices, says owner Jason Overbo. And when you factor in how durable his products are, and the scope for repairing rather than replacing them, Brooklyn’s prices are a steal.

“We all have 20 pairs of jeans in our closet and two that we actually like and wear,” says Overbo. “So, I tell guys all the time, don’t buy something just because

& Uncles, which has been producing fashionable, robust bags for men and women since 2004.

“Everything is built for functionality, usability and durability,” says Axel Menzler, the German brand’s North American rep. “Our slogan is ‘style with care,’ so we want to build something with a fair price point that’s got everything you want in there. That’s your item that you go into the hustle and bustle with every day; you can rely on it.”

In the unlikely event the zipper should break or a rivet come loose, Aunts & Uncles’ point-stitched construction makes repairs easy.

With vintage being a style unto itself, Aunts & Uncles bags are highly sought after because of how gracefully they age. At Brooklyn, Overbo keeps a display example of a well-used A&U shoulder bag to show customers. It radiates character and looks like it could tell a few stories.

it’s on sale or because it’s cheap; buy something you like and that you’re going to love and have for a long time.

“Buy less, buy better quality. I think it’s a great philosophy.”

One brand sold at Brooklyn that particularly captures this philosophy is Aunts

“It becomes your unique piece because it wears in,” explains Menzler, admiring the display bag. “So we might both have the same bag and I’ll see you half a year later and your bag will look different from mine.”

And, fittingly for a brand that gets better with age, many of Aunts & Uncles’ bags come in a colour called Single Malt.

Central City has 1,400 barrels of single malt aging right now.

Roll out the barrel

S URREY’S C ENTRAL C ITY MAY HAVE BEGUN AS BEER BREWERS, BUT THEY ARE F AST BECOMING ONE O F B.C .’S MOST IMPORTANT DISTILLERS O F SINGLE MALT

by Joe Wiebe

He may have a lengthy career in brewing behind him, but Gary Lohin is clear: “I’ve been a whisky aficionado for even longer.”

He got his start in beer at Whistler Brewing back in 1989, before spending most of the 1990s at Sailor Hagar’s Brewpub in North Vancouver. He moved to Central City Brewpub in Surrey in 2003 where his Red Racer beer lineup established him as one of B.C.’s top brewmasters. It was on trips to Oregon and California that he visited microdistilleries and began noticing that breweries there were adding stills. So, when Central City began planning its new production facility in 2010, Lohin suggested to his business partner that they should add a distillery.

“It didn’t take me too long to convince him,” Lohin recalls. “With the amount of money we were spending on the brewery, the cost of the stills was a fraction. It was a no-brainer.”

When the new facility opened in 2013, they cranked up their German Holstein stills immediately, putting down washes and distilling batches of vodka and gin that were released soon after. But Lohin was most excited about the single malt aging in barrels, patiently awaiting the three-year mark when it could legally be released as whisky in Canada.

Working with Lohin is Stuart McKinnon, Central City’s head distiller. Lohin brews the wash and then McKinnon handles the distilling process. Lohin has “direction on styles and where we want to go,” and gets involved in the blending process as well.

According to McKinnon, Central City has about 1,400 barrels in use right now and should be up to 1,750 to 1,800 by the end of 2017. Most of that is single malt whisky made from Canadian pale malt aged mainly in used bourbon or Tennessee whisky barrels. “We also have a significant amount aging in Oloroso

W E’RE USING THE SAME INNOVATION AND EXPERIMENTATION THAT WE DO IN OUR CRA F T BREWING AND APPLYING IT TO OUR DISTILLING PROGRAM.

sherry, Pedro Ximenez, port, Sauternes, Muscat, Madeira,Tokaji, new French oak, and Oregon oak,” he notes.

They’ve also barrelled some heavily peated single malt, as well as some experimental batches that include 30 per cent chocolate malt (traditionally used to make porters and stouts). “You really can taste it in the whisky,” Lohin says. “We’re using the same innovation

and experimentation that we do in our craft brewing and applying it to our distilling program.”

Central City is putting more whisky into barrels all the time and plans to build a new warehouse where more barrels can be stored. Lohin, the whisky lover, is already excited about the prospect of releasing whiskies aged for eight and 10 years in the future.

CO M IN G S OON

Since late 2016, Central City has released two batches of Lohin-McKinnon Single Malt Whisky along with the Canada 150-themed 150th Anniversary Lightly Peated Malt Rye Whisky (a blend of peated malt aged in sherry barrels and malted rye aged in bourbon barrels). A third whisky will be released later this fall, featuring four-year-old single malt aged in Pipe (a port-style fortified wine) barrels from Summerland’s Black Sage Vineyard.

Gary Lohin (L) and Stuart McKinnon.

Apples, sauced

A PPLES ARE THE PER F ECT F ALL F RUIT TO WORK INTO COCKTAILS AT HOME

by Justin Taylor

I’ve always loved apples — in pies and crumbles, roasted with pork — there is no end to the versatility of this beautiful local fruit. As a cocktail maker, apples play a major role in my creations. Our B.C. apples are bountiful, and we produce so many varietals to choose from. As the cool, crisp breezes of fall

begin, apples automatically become a focus at my professional bar, but they are perfect to incorporate into drinks at home. Here are four recipes to get you started, but feel free to experiment with different varieties of apples, in different forms. Your house guests will be happy, I guarantee it.

Danika Sea photo

1 whole Honey Crisp apple, core removed*

Egg white separated from 1 large egg

1 oz amaretto

1 oz calvados

1 oz lemon juice

2 oz soda water

4 1-inch ice cubes

apple fan (for garnish)

Place first five ingredients plus ice into a blender and blend on a low setting, gradually increasing speed until the ice has dissolved. Put soda water into a tall glass, then add the blender contents slowly to mix through the soda —– done right, a frothy head that rises above the rim of the glass should form. Garnish with an apple fan.

Juice of one whole Ginger

Crisp apple (around 2oz)*

1 oz unsweetened cranberry juice

1.5 oz gin

0.5 oz ginger liqueur

0.5 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 dashes of orange bitters

Apple slices and cranberries (for garnish)

Using a press or juicer, extract juice from apple. Add all ingredients (except garnish) to a cocktail shaker with ice and shake hard for 20 seconds. Double strain into a chilled cocktail coupe and garnish with apple and cranberry skewers.

Danika Sea photo

BUSHEL AND A PEC

4 oz bourbon

4 oz amaro

12 oz fresh pressed cider

2 dashes Scrappy’s

Firewater bitters

Cinnamon and lemon zest (for garnish)

Pour ingredients (except garnish) into a small saucepan and bring to a temperature of no more than 80 degrees Celsius (use a thermometer, otherwise you could boil o all the alcohol). Remove from heat, divide evenly between four mugs and garnish with freshly grated cinnamon and lemon zest. Serves 4.

—all recipes by JustinTaylor

1 oz blanco tequila

0.5 oz Galliano vanilla liqueur

3 dashes Angostura bitters

4 oz dry hard cider

Apple slices for garnish

Fill a Collins glass with ice, then add all ingredients in order (except garnish) and stir. Top with more ice and a splash of cider, and garnish with fresh apple slices.

*TI P: Store-bought apple juice is no substitute for the real thing and your drinks will not taste the same if you choose to use it. Please experiment responsibly!

TEQUIL A A ND C IDE R C OLLIN S

Smooth operator

THE SIDECAR COCKTAIL IS A SOPHISTICATED, CLASSY CONCOCTION, SO WHY IS IT SO OFTEN OVERLOOKED?

by Joanne Sasvari

The Sidecar is one of the great Prohibition-era classics, a boozy-butvibrant three-ingredient cocktail that fulfills our desire for both the depth of brown spirits and the bright acidity of citrus. It should be a rock star among cocktails, yet where Old Fashioneds, tiki drinks and even the horrible Gimlet

have made their comebacks, the Sidecar has somehow eluded its just recognition amid the modern cocktail revival.

It’s time for that to change.

An elegant concoction of Cognac, Cointreau and lemon juice, shaken and

Ritz Paris photo

Ritz Paris bartender Frank Meier may have invented the Sidecar in 1923.

C OCKTAIL SNOBS DISDAIN IT BECAUSE SO O F TEN IT GOES TERRIBLY WRONG: TOO SWEET, TOO SOUR, TOO STRONG, TOO WEAK OR, WORST O F ALL, MUTILATED WITH SODA, GINGER ALE OR 7 U P.

served up in a sugar-rimmed coupe, the Sidecar is easy to make and even easier to enjoy. But cocktail snobs disdain it because so often it goes terribly wrong: too sweet, too sour, too strong, too weak or, worst of all, mutilated with soda, ginger ale or 7Up. When it is prepared with restraint and top-notch ingredients, though, nothing could be better.

It is said that the Sidecar was invented in 1923, at the Ritz Hotel in Paris by Frank

SEXY B E AST

“The luminous, golden-straw colour, the perfectly controlled sweetness, the jazzy high notes of the citrus against the steady bass of the brandy… This is a drink whose suavité is beyond question — it’s the Warren Beatty of modern mixology.” —David Wondrich

Meier, the hotel’s first head bartender. It is also said that it was invented in 1922, at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris by the great Harry McElhone.

The Ritz is pretty adamant about being its source. You can still get a Sidecar at the Ritz’s Bar Hemingway, where it is shaken by the legendary Colin Field, who is so graciously charming you almost don’t mind handing over 30 euros for a couple ounces of liquor.

Both the Ritz and Harry’s claim the drink was inspired by a regular customer — usually identified as an American army captain — who liked to ride in the sidecar of a motorcycle. Or maybe he drove a motorcycle with a sidecar. It’s a bit unclear. But everyone knows it involved a motorcycle and a sidecar.

Was the Sidecar named for the sidecar?

RIT ZY B US INESS

If you do swing by the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz in Paris, make sure your order doesn’t get lost in translation: the signature Ritz “Royal” Sidecar will set you back a whopping 1,500 euros.

Except maybe it didn’t. Dale DeGroff, the New York bartender who kickstarted the cocktail revival back in the 1990s, insists in his book The Essential Cocktail that it is actually a bit of bartender slang for the excess left in a cocktail shaker, which the bartender pours into a shot glass. “That little glass is called a sidecar,” he writes.

Oh, and by the way, he adds, even though the Sidecar may have been invented in Paris in the 1920s, it evolved from a much older New Orleans drink, the Brandy Crusta (Cognac, Cointreau, lemon juice, maraschino liqueur, bitters, served in a sugar-rimmed glass), which dates back to the 1850s.

So, how did the Sidecar go so wrong? Cheapness and laziness, mostly. In

other words: sweet-and-sour mix and bad brandy.

Cocktail historian David Wondrich points out that when the Sidecar was first invented, even the least expensive VS (Very Special) Cognac was made with much older eaux de vie than it is today. To get that same depth and intensity of flavour now, you’d need to use XO (Extra Aged) Cognac, which runs about $250 a bottle. Either that, or do what most bartenders do and double the amount of brandy.

In any case, the key is to use the best quality ingredients you can afford. If you do, you will find yourself falling in love with one of the greatest classic cocktails of them all. It’s about time for its comeback, don’t you think?

TH E SIDECAR

The original recipe called for equal amounts of Cognac, orange liqueur and lemon juice, but whether it’s the ingredients that have changed or modern tastes, today we prefer a version that’s heavier on the Cognac. If you can’t afford the real thing, use as good a quality brandy as you can.

2 oz Cognac

1 oz Cointreau or triple sec

1 oz freshly squeezed lemon juice

Rim a chilled coupe glass with sugar. (Or rim just half the glass: it looks stylish and gives the drinker options.) Shake all ingredients with ice and double strain into the chilled coupe.

Dan Toulgoet photo

r ise and s hi ne

Whiskybusiness

When it came out in 2012, Canadian Whisky: The Portable Expert established Davin de Kergommeaux as the foremost authority in the country on the spirit. As the second edition is published, The Alchemist asked its author about the state of the Canadian industry today.

WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIG CHANGES IN CANADIAN WHISKY SINCE

THE FIRST EDITION WAS PUBLISHED?

The Canadian whisky sector suddenly entered a period of tremendous change. All of a sudden distilleries began to release dozens of new Canadian whiskies, and connoisseurs began talking about them in glowing terms. Micro-distilling burst onto the scene and though still an incredibly small part of the overall market, it is generating a lot of interest. Some of the new whiskies, although still quite young, are very respectable. When I wrote the first edition there were maybe three or four small distilleries making whisky in Canada. The new edition includes over 40.

WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THE RISE OF THESE MICRO-DISTILLERIES?

I am surprised, and to some degree disappointed at how very conservative many of them have been in their approach to making whisky in Canada. Some of them talk about the importance of terroir then set out to make Scottishstyle single malts or American-style bourbons. It does not matter how good their single malt is, it will never be Scotch. One of the very earliest Canadian microdistillers, Still Waters in Toronto, learned this lesson early on. They began making single malt whisky, and did a fine job of it. Then they experimented with rye and it just took off. Demand was so great for their rye that it eclipsed their single malt and now makes up more than half of their production.

WHAT HAS THE RISE OF MICRODISTILLERIES MEANT TO THE INDUSTRY IN CANADA?

So far, not a whole lot. Whisky takes time to develop in the barrel and the small distillers just haven’t been around long enough to make much of an impact. That said, they are doing a lot to draw attention to the category. They are new, they have

exciting stories and they get a huge amount of coverage by the media.

Vancouver is currently the epicentre of micro-distilling in Canada. I think it is a wonderful idea to offer tax incentives to produce spirits from local grains and fruits. Here we get back to terroir. There are already some very promising whiskies coming from B.C. — Lohin McKinnon, Shelter Point, Odd Society, and a handful of others.

ARE WE STILL CATCHING UP HERE, ABOUT WHERE WE SHOULD BE, OR PUNCHING ABOVE OUR WEIGHT?

The industry began later in B.C. than in some other parts of Canada, but it is not really a game of catch-up. When the whiskies are ready they will gain recognition based on the contents of the bottles. Those that try to accelerate the maturing process are doomed.

Those that rush to market also have a good chance of failing unless they have deep pockets and can survive initial disappointments. Why are they making single malt in the first place when it takes so very long to really mature, yet rye can be ready is just a few years? Why are they making single malt when the Scots have already perfected it, have the name recognition, can make it more economically, and Canada already has a strong reputation for other whisky styles?

IF YOU HAD ONE PIECE OF ADVICE FOR A NEW DISTILLER ENTERING THE CANADIAN WHISKY MARKET, WHAT WOULD IT BE?

Prepare a detailed business plan based on your own research. And, if I may, don’t be conned by consultants who tell you there is a way to do it faster.

Edited by Fiona Morrow. To read the full interview, go to thealchemistmagazine.ca

Liquid gold

IT CAN TAKE YEARS BEFORE BROWN SPIRITS GET TO MARKET. HERE’S HOW B.C. DISTILLERIES KEEP THEIR BUSINESSES LIQUID IN THE MEANTIME

by Charlene Rooke

Imagineyou make widgets: finely crafted, artisan widgets. Customers pay more for vintage widgets, so there are laws around how old they have to be as well as their quality. You spend a couple of years building your factory with expensive, traditional widget-making equipment. You hire workers, pay for raw materials, power and utilities, and finally fill a warehouse with a bunch of bulky, heavy containers, then wait a few years before you can sell any of your exquisite stock at a premium price. In the meantime, you absorb labour and storage costs to maintain your inventory, which you lose a mysterious chunk of every year as some widgets slip through the cracks and just disappear into thin air.

Crazy business model, right? Yet it’s a parable for the artisan distilling industry. “When I went to the bank [for a loan]… the answer was, ‘That’s an interesting

concept,’” says Grant Stevely, of the South Okanagan Dubh Glas distillery. “And they literally laughed. I get it: asking to borrow some money and to pay you back in three to five years doesn’t even sound like a business.”

While making barrel-aged spirits like whisky is the dream for many distillers, the reality is keeping a business running for three years (the minimum legal amount of time it has to spend in a barrel to be named Canadian whisky) or longer. Campbell River’s Shelter Point, for example, waited five years to release its first whisky. So the steady pour of new B.C. gins, like Dubh Glas’s Noteworthy, has something to do with the spirit’s global renaissance, but much to do with the fact that clear gin can be bottled and sold almost as fast as it can be produced, no aging required. Small-batch vodka, so-called “white whisky” (a.k.a. moonshine,

white dog, virgin spirit), liqueurs and even cocktail bitters can feed both customers and the bottom line while spirits are aging in the barrel.

“It’s very expensive to make whisky,” says Tyler Dyck, CEO of Okanagan Spirits in Vernon, and president of the Craft Distillers Guild of B.C. “It’s a lot of economic input, a lot of time and operations.” Already a decade into whisky making, Okanagan Spirits is now producing four to five barrels a week. “If you’re not making it now, in five years time, you’ll wish you had been,” says Dyck, who finds people are “blown away” when he explains the aging equation. “They think you can just snap your fingers and make more of it.”

That mysterious loss of your widgets over the years is a real thing, romantically called the “Angel’s Share”: evaporation from the barrel concentrates flavours — and price, as distillers compensate for their losses.

Temperate climates like Scotland, Vancouver or the Island might lose two to four per cent volume a year. In the Okanagan, “We’re very similar to India: We’re looking at up to 10 per cent loss annually,” says Stevely, who deliberately chose his location after tasting award-

winning warm-climate whiskies. Do the math: that could be 50 per cent less volume after five years. He speculates that he’ll have to sell his whisky — planned for 2019 single-barrel, cask-strength releases — for $80 to $100 a bottle.

Like other enterprising local distillers such as Odd Society, DeVine and Urban Distillery, Stevely is selling whisky “futures”: prepaid batches of 30 litres or more that can be yours for the bottling when fully aged in a few years’ time. The advance revenue helps a distillery cover costs and creates word-of-mouth marketing through loyal super-customers. At the new Victoria Caledonian Brewery & Distillery, not only can you work with master distiller Mike Nicolson to customize your batch of single malt (from five new-make spirit options and 10 different casks), you can become an actual investor in the distillery.

President Graeme Macaloney travelled across Canada to bring his vision of world-class B.C. single malt to whisky aficionados and clubs. He is thrilled with the response: “Two-hundred-and-eighty Canadians have already put their hardearned money into it.”

Futures and shares are two positive factors in the complex equation of barrel economics.

AT THE END OF FIVE YEARS IN THE OKANAGAN 50% OF YOUR WHISKY MAY HAVE EVAPORATED

A Vancouver native son, Gavin Hobbs draws inspiration from his extensive travel and classic cocktail culture.

Gavin’s bar style combines an understanding of classics and an ability to read a guest and deliver the perfect drink.

Currently at Boulevard as Head Bartender, Gavin continues to develop creative content while keeping one foot rmly planted in the past.

AGUAS CALIENTE

‘WATCH OUT, HOT’

1.25 oz Sombre Mezcal

0.75 oz Noilly Pratt

0.50 oz Ancho Reyes

0.15 oz Crème de Cacao

0.25 oz Kahlua

Combine all ingredients. Shake. Strain to chilled Coupe. Garnish with a lemon twist.

B.C. DISTILLERY LISTINGS

MEET THE EXPERTS

As part of our mission to provide the essential resource on B.C. spirits, our panel of top mixologists provides tasting notes on one spirit from each listed distillery.

Born and raised in Vancouver, Shaun Layton is a leading figure on the international cocktail scene. He led the bar program at L’Abattoir for more than four years, before opening Vancouver’s Juniper Kitchen & Bar. He is currently focused on his consulting business.

Head bartender at the Rosewood Hotel Georgia, Robyn Gray loves creating bespoke experiences for his guests. Operating the Georgia’s beverage programs since 2011, Gray brings a sense of contemporary flair to classic cocktails — a sensibility mirrored in the modern yet historic downtown Vancouver hotel.

Trevor Kallies is bar and beverage director for the Donnelly Group, where he has created several award-winning cocktail lists. A founding member of the Canadian Professional Bartender’s Association, he also manages the Cocktail Apprentice Program at the world-renowned annual Tales of the Cocktail.

Josh Pape is an award-winning bartender who has established himself as one of Vancouver’s most influential young restaurateurs. He co-owns and operates a number of the city’s new and notable restaurants and bars, including Bells and Whistles, The Diamond, Lucky Taco, Pizzeria Bufala and Wildebeest.

Bar manager at Whistler’s Bearfoot Bistro, Scott Barber is also responsible for the restaurant’s sub-zero vodka room. He has created tasting notes for each of the dozens of vodkas poured, becoming an expert on the distillation techniques and different flavour profiles in the process.

TASTING NOTES LEGEND

FR: Fragrance

FL: Flavour

FE: Feel

FI: Finish

BE: Best enjoyed

BL: The bottom line

AF TER DARK DISTILLERY

1201 Shuswap Ave., Sicamous 250-836-5187 | AfterDarkDistillery.com

AfterDarkDistilleryLtd

@After_Dark_Distillery

@After_Dark_Dist

AMPERSAND D ISTILLING CO.

4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan 250-737-1880

AmpersandDistilling.com

@AmpDistillingCo

AR B UTUS DISTILLERY

1890 Boxwood Rd., Nanaimo 250-714-0027

Arbutus-Distillery.com

@ArbutusDistillery

@ArbutusDistill

Dean and Louise Perry moved from Alberta to the Shuswap to begin their distilling adventure. They focus on flavoured moonshine, vodkas and whisky, but gin is also in the works.

MONASHEE MOUNTAIN MOONSHINE APPLE PIE

FR Amazing nose of fresh baked cinnamon buns, quince tarte tatin and cream cheese.

FL Apple candy sweetness dominates. FE Very light viscosity. FI Sweet finish with hints of cinnamon and vanilla. Astringent, bitter notes. BE In hot apple cider on a fall day.

BL Could use more viscosity and natural apple flavour.

–Shaun Layton

Other products include: Monashee Mountain Moonshine in various flavours, Monashee Mountain Vodka, Monashee Mountain Whisky.

Tasting Room by appointment

Father and son Stephen and Jeremy Schacht hand craft their spirits on five acres of organic farmland in the Cowichan Valley, distilling their gin and vodka from B.C. wheat.

PER SE VODKA

FR Light and creamy, almost vanilla. FL Same, familiar creamy, semi-sweetnees of a wheat vodka. FE Mildly mouth coating and pleasant. FI A little heat on the back, but easy to sip neat and at room temperature. BE Chilled with not much else. Martini bound! BL Not surprised it was voted B.C.’s best vodka two years running.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Ampersand Gin.

Head distiller Michael Pizzitelli brings both a background in science and his experience in brewing to Arbutus Distillery’s ever-growing range of botanicalforward spirits.

EMPIRIC GIN

FR Full of juniper and lemony citrus aromas.

FL Lemon with a touch of coriander, moving into juniper.

FE Thin, slightly oily. Some heat on the back end.

FI All juniper with the other botanicals taking a step back.

BE Some playful Gin & Tonic opportunities here.

BL Not a bad addition to the gin shelf.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Baba Yaga Genuine Absinthe, Coven Vodka, Espresso Infused Vodka, Juniperus Lupulus Harvest-Hopped Gin.

Tasting Room by appointment

Tasting Room yes

BOHE M IAN S PIRITS

417A 304 St., Kimberley

BohemianSpirits.com

@GoodCheerHere

C ENTRA LC ITY B REWERS & DISTILLERS

11411 Bridgeview Dr., Surrey 604-588-2337

CentralCityBrewing.com

CentralCityBrewing

@CentralCityBrew

CROW’S NEST DISTILLERY

117-667 Sumas Way, Abbotsford 778-251-6002 | CrowsNestDistillery.com

CrowsNestDistillery

@Crows.Nest.Distillery

@AHigherSpirit

Using botanicals foraged in the mountains around Kimberley, Bohemian produces small-batch hand-crafted vodka and gin.

ECLIPSE COFFEE LIQUEUR

FR Bright coffee, cherry and bitter chocolate. FL Rounded, deep, rich, sweet coffee.

FE Viscous and mouth coating.

FI Lasting, balanced, bittersweet coffee.

BE Caucasian, a.k.a. White Russian. BL Beautiful balance of bitter and sweet allows for a great take on your favourite coffee liqueur cocktails.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Colossal Gin, Forrester Single Malt Oak Aged Gin, Limited Gin, Vagabond Vodka.

Tasting Room no

The successful B.C. brewer of the popular Red Racer beers, Central City began distilling after it moved into a giant new facility in North Surrey in 2013.

LOHIN MCKINNON BARLEY & RYE LIGHTLY PEATED WHISKY

FR A touch of peated grain when you search for it.

FL Peat smoke more present on palate. Rye spice is nice.

FE Spicy.

FI Nice rye spice.

BE Neat at bottle strength or a touch of water.

BL They did a good job on this one. It’s a fun whisky to sip on.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Lohin McKinnon Single Malt Whisky, Seraph Vodka, Queensborough Gin, Queensborough Gin Twist.

Tasting Room yes

Rekindling the tradition of his Italian ancestors, Daniel Paolone, along with friend Ian Jarvis, are distilling spirits with local ingredients, starting with vodka and rum.

VODKA

FR Faint vanilla.

FL Cinnamon spice.

FE Clean and crisp.

FI Short and pleasant, light vanilla.

BE Vodka soda.

BL Extraordinarily clean and crisp, true to the essence of vodka as a neutral grain spirit.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: White Rum, Spiced Rum.

Tasting Room no

D E VINE S PIRITS

6181B Old West Saanich Rd., Saanichton

250-665-6983

DevineVineyards.ca

@deVineVineyards

D EEP C OVE B REWERS & DISTILLERS

2270 Dollarton Hwy., North Vancouver, 604-770-1136

DeepCoveCraft.com

DeepCoveBrewers

@DeepCoveCraft

DRAGON M IST DISTILLERY

213-19138 26th Ave., Surrey 604-803-2226

DragonMistDistillery.com

@DragonMistDistillery

@DragonMistVodka

This Saanich-based distillery is proud to use local fruits, honey and grains in their spirits. Also a winery, they use their own grapes as the base for their Vin Gin.

GENEVER

FR Pungent, green cardamom, toasted spice.

FL Fennel, cardamom, clove.

FE Not subtle.

FI Dry and hot.

BE As a bold Gin & Tonic. Or

find a Rembrandt recipe with dry vermouth and Drambuie.

BL A fun cocktail ingredient.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Glen Saanich

Single Malt, Honey Shine Beekeeper’s Reserve, New Tom Barrel Aged Gin, Sitka Vodka, Vin Gin.

Tasting Room yes

This North Shore distillery augments its rosemary and oliveinfused gin and award-winning vodka with a variety of smallbatch seasonal releases.

BARREL AGED MEDITERRANEAN GIN

FR Big, herbaceous rosemary.

FL Sweet and herbaceous.

FE Soft and round.

FI Pepper spice, light citrus.

BE In a Martini.

BL Stirred down cold, this gin’s unique character is best enjoyed when its spirit can shine through.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Mediterranean Gin, Vodka.

Creek, urrey-based herry Jiang is producing Canada’s only expressions of traditional Chinese spirit, baijiu.

CRANBERRY LIQUEUR

FR Stewed dark fruit.

FL Tart cranberry snap.

FE Oily. Good staying power.

FI Lasting.

BE In a punch or simple mixer with soda.

BL A great festive holiday mixer.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Baijiu Gold, Baijiu Silver, Dragon Mist Vodka, Dragon Mist Gin, Blueberry Liqueur, Coffee Liqueur.

Tasting Room yes

Tasting Room no

DUB H GL AS DISTILLERY FER M ENTORIU M D ISTILLING CO.

8486 Gallagher Lake Frontage Rd., Oliver

778-439-3580

TheDubhGlasDistillery.com

@TheDubhGlasD

2010 Government St., Victoria 250-380-1912

Fermentorium.ca

PhillipsBreweryCo

@PhillipsBeer

G&W D ISTILLING INC.

7167 Vantage Way #8, Delta 604-376-0630

gwdistilling.com

Though whisky is owner Grant Stevely’s true passion, the first signature release from this Oliverbased operation was the small batch Noteworthy Gin, distilled from B.C. barley.

NOTEWORTHY GIN

FR Intense rosemary.

FL Pleasant sweetness with light florality.

FE Clean and light.

FI Medium vanilla finish. BE Gin Martini with a lemon twist.

BL Lovely gin with an amazing balance. Sweet and herbaceous.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Virgin Spirits – Barley.

Fermentorium, created by Phillips Brewing Company, uses a 1920s British still named Old George to help make its West Coast gin. Its collection of tonic waters elevates even the most basic of highballs.

STUMP COASTAL FOREST GIN

FR Where to begin? Moroccan mint tea. Pine needle or fir. Pesto. FL Rosemary and stalky herbs. Lavender. FE Bold. Hot. Kinda brash. FI A bit boozier than it needs to be. BE As a seasonal Gin & Tonic or a French 75 over the holidays. With a sprig of thyme? BL Sub in for your favourite gin classics that are easy on the citrus.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Fermentorium Handcrafted Tonics.

Goodridge & Williams is quickly becoming a national player in craft distilling, led by the bestselling Sid’s Handcrafted Vodka and award-winning Nütrl Vodka.

NÜTRL VODKA SODA

FR Light lemon zest. FL Tastes like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon. FE Feels like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon.

FI Short, clean finish (like a vodka soda with a squeeze of lemon). BE Neat, straight from the fridge. Recommend over ice and cold, cold, cold.

BL Ideal for camping/boating/ barbecue/outdoor activities/ poolside/sport events.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Sid’s Handcrafted Vodka, Nütrl Vodka, Tempo Renovo Dry Gin, Bitterhouse aperitifs, Mapleshade Reposé.

Tasting Room yes

Tasting Room no

Tasting Room yes

GILLESPIE’S F INE SPIRITS

8-38918 Progress Way, Squamish 604-390-1122

GillespiesFineSpirits.com

@GillespiesFineSpirits

@Gillespies1

KOOTENAY C OUNTRY C RA F T DISTILLERY

7263 Gustafson Rd., Slocan 250-355-2702

kootenaycountry.ca

Kootenay-Country-Craft-DistilleryLtd

LEGEND D ISTILLING

3005 Naramata Rd., Naramata 778-514-1010

LegendDistilling.com

@LegendNaramata

Friendship, a fun attitude, and a shared love of booze inspired Kelly Woods and John McLellan to start their Squamish-based still. Their spirits are designed to be cocktail friendly.

LEMONCELLO

FR Cold lozenges, lemon sorbet.

FL Bittersweet, fragrant lemon, pithy.

FE Thin on the palate.

FI Lasting pithy citrus.

BE Serve over ice, after dinner.

BL The colour is a bit jarring, but this is a cool local digestif.

–Shaun Layton

Other products include: Sin Gin, Gastown Shine Wheat Vodka, Raspberry Gin, Aphro Chili Chocolate Elixir.

Tasting Room yes

Lora and Kevin Goodwin strive to keep to the100-mile philosophy in their spirit production, using organic heirloom wheat, seasonal flowers and fruits, and spring water from the Selkirk Mountains.

VALHALLA

VODKA

FR Sweet, dried fruit.

FL Cereal grain with high minerality.

FE Lightly creamy mouthfeel.

FI Black pepper spice.

BE Neat on ice.

BL Kootenay Country’s water source, filtered by granite strata, brings a beautiful minerality to this spicy and fruity vodka.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Kootenay Country Gin, Kootenay Country Honey Vodka, seasonal flavoured vodkas.

Tasting Room yes

In a former doctor’s office on the Naramata Bench, Dawn and Doug Lennie created Legend together, drawing on the local bounty of the Okanagan for the base and flavours of their gin and vodkas.

NARAMARO

FR Cream soda. Candied citrus.

FL Citrus, gentian, licorice. In that order.

FE Sweet and bitter battling it out on your palate.

FI Long. Sweet but dry.

BE Neat after a big meal. Maybe over vanilla ice cream or even added to an affogato.

BL More citrusy than most amari. Worth a shot.

–Josh

Pape

Other products include: Black Moon Gin, Blasted Brew Spiked Coffee, Doctor’s Orders Gin, Shadow in the Lake Vodka, Slowpoke flavoured vodkas.

Tasting Room yes

T HE LIB ERTY DISTILLERY

1494 Old Bridge St., Vancouver 604-558-1998

TheLibertyDistillery.com

@TLDistillery

LONG TA BL E D ISTILLERY

1451 Hornby St., Vancouver 604-266-0177

LongTableDistillery.com

@LongTableDistillery

@LT_Distillery

MAD LA B ORATORY D ISTILLING

119-618 East Kent Ave., Vancouver

MadLabDistilling

@MadLabSpirits

With prime real estate on Granville Island, Liberty is open for tours, tastings and daily cocktails showcasing their vodka, different expressions of gin, and various whiskies.

ENDEAVOUR GIN ORIGINS

FR Very light for a gin with 25 botanicals. Violet candies, lemon zest, potpourri. FL Faint white pepper, nutmeg, mace, other baking spices. FE Very rich, pleasant, syrupy viscosity.

FI Clean finish, high alcohol sticks around. BE Would make a great dry Gibson Martini. BL For entry-level gin drinkers. Similar to Bombay Sapphire.

–Shaun Layton

Other products include: Truth vodkas, Endeavour Gin, Endeavour Old Tom, Endeavour Pink, Railspur unaged whiskeys, Trust whiskeys.

Tasting Room yes

Gin is at the heart of Long Table, with London dry-style, cucumber and barrel-aged varieties fuelling its many awards. This downtown Vancouver distillery also produces vodka, as well as seasonal liqueurs.

LONDON DRY GIN

FR Juniper, lemon peel, lavender.

FL Alpine notes, juniper heavy, bitter lemon.

FE Thin.

FI Great coriander and black pepper finish.

BE Classic cocktails (Martini, Martinez, Hanky Panky).

BL The best B.C. London Dry on the market

–Shaun Layton

Other products include: Bourbon Barrel Aged Gin, Cucumber Gin, Långbord Akvavit, Texada Vodka, Amaro No. 1 – Linnaeus.

Tasting Room yes

Truly handmade using a small homebrew mill and a pump, Mad Laboratory’s vodka is triple distilled and carbon filtered from Armstrong barley and Champagne yeast.

MAD DOG SINGLE MALT WHITE SPIRIT

FR A brewery in the morning. Lovely. FL Toasted pumpernickel bread.

FE Punchy, then round.

FI Honey. Long and sweet.

BE As a sour. Heavy on the angostura, or even with 10 ml of amaro. BL Not sure about the white whisky trend, but this is a good indicator of the aged spirit Mad Dog will produce.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Mad Lab Vodka, Mad Lab Gin.

Tasting Room no

MAPLE LEAF SPIRITS

948 Naramata Rd., Penticton

250-493-0180 | MapleLeafSpirits.ca

MapleLeafSpirits

@ Maple_Leaf_Spirits_Inc

@MapleLeafSpirit

MERRIDALE ESTATE CIDERY NORTHWEST DISTILLING CO.

PO Box 358, 1230 Merridale Rd., Cobble Hill

250-743-4293

MerridaleCider.ca

@MerridaleCider

104-20120 Stewart Cres., Maple Ridge | 604-818-6972

NorthWestDistillingCo.ca

@NWDistilling

@NW_Distilling

Originally from Germany and now based in the Okanagan, Jorg Engel has created a range of fruit-based liqueurs, brandies and grappas, produced from distilling 100-per-cent B.C. fruit.

PEACH LIQUEUR

FR Fuzzy peach candies.

FL All peach with some tangy notes. FE Mouth coating. Syrupy texture. Not overly sweet. FI Peach sticks around for some time. BE Neat for dessert. Very positive substitution for commercial brands. BL Nice for dessert, great as a modifier when needing a peach liqueur for a cocktail.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Lady of the Cask Brandy, Canadian Kirsch, Pear Williams, Italian Prune, Cherry Liqueur, Maple Liqueur.

Tasting Room yes

This Vancouver Island cider business applied their traditional fruit focus to distilling, creating a range that includes gin, fruit brandies, a rested whisky and even a carbonated vodka.

COWICHAN GIN

FR Mild apple and citrus.

FL Sightly sweet with botanical background. Definitely do not notice the 47-per-cent ABV.

FE Almost viscous. Very pleasant. FI Long and enjoyable. Orchard fruit shines through. BE Long with soda or very cold over ice. BL Fun gin showing prowess and the possibilities of foraged ingredients.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Cowichan Vodka, Copper Gin, Stair’s Pear Brandy, Cowichan XXO Brandy, Pomme Oh!, Whisky Jack’s.

Tasting Room yes

Using winter wheat, Maple Ridge-based NorthWest creates its signature vodka by distilling it 10 times and cold-filtering eight times through charcoal.

NORTHWEST VODKA

FR Just alcohol.

FL Sweet. White pepper.

FE Silky and balanced.

FI Short but pleasant.

BE Chilled. Minimal dilution. Makes a good Martini.

BL Very easy-drinking vodka.

–Josh Pape

No other products.

Tasting Room opening soon

ODD SOCIETY SPIRITS

1725 Powell St., Vancouver 604-559-6745

OddSocietySpirits.com

@OddSocietySpirits

@OddSpirits

OKANAGAN SPIRITS CRAFT DISTILLERY

5204 24th St., Vernon

267 Bernard Ave., Kelowna 250-549-3120 | 778-484-5174

OkanaganSpirits.com

@OkanaganSpirits

OLD ORDER DISTILLING COMPANY

270 Martin St., Penticton 778-476-2210 | OldOrderDistilling.ca

OldOrderDistilling

@Old_Order_Distilling

@OldOrder_Spirit

This East Vancouver distillery’s three founding self-described “odd” owners are busy producing different expressions of gin, vodka and both white (unaged), and single malt whiskies.

MONGREL UNAGED SPIRIT

FR Buttered bread and light malty notes. FL Complex and refined, very nice for an unaged rye-based spirit. Very well balanced. FE Pleasant sweetness. FI Slightly hot, loads of spice, in a good way. BE

Makes a great White Whisky Sour. Begging to be shaken with citrus. BL One of the better unaged whiskies, period.

–Shaun

Layton

Other products include: Bittersweet Vermouth, Crème de Cassis, East Van Vodka, Wallflower Gin, Oaken Wallfower Gin.

Tasting Room yes

A family-owned, award-winning distillery with a wide range of products to its name, including an absinthe, and both rye and single malt whiskies. Tours and tastings are available in both its locations.

BRBN

FR Certainly smells like a corn whisky. Has a sugary note as well. FL Corn and oak, some mild vanilla on the front.

FE Warm, slightly mouth coating. FI Corn sticks around, shadowed by the alcohol heat. BE Good with some ginger ale and held up in an Old Fashioned. BL Interesting taste for a Canadian take on “BRBN.”

–Trevor

Kallies

Other products include: Taboo Genuine Absinthe, Essential Gin, Essential Vodka, Single Malt Whisky, Poire Williams.

Tasting Room yes

At their Penticton distillery, Graham Martens and Naomi Gabriel take barley from Vanderhoof, malt it in Armstrong, then distill it with spring water from Anarchist Mountain.

LEGACY GIN

FR Dill, licorice. FL Anise heavy, funky fruit. FE Thin.

FI Citrus and aniseed. BE In a Corpse Reviver No. 2 BL Mix with citrus and absinthe.

–Shaun

Layton

Other products include: Heritage Vodka, Black Goat Vodka.

Tasting Room yes

PE MBERTON DISTILLERY ROOTS AND WINGS DISTILLERY

1954 Venture Pl., Pemberton 604-894-0222

PembertonDistillery.ca

Pemberton.Distillery

@PembyDistillery

7897 240th St., Langley 778-246-5247

RootsAndWingsDistillery.ca

@RawStillHouse

S HE LTER P OINT D ISTILLERY

4650 Regent Rd, Campbell River 778-420-2200, ShelterPoint.ca

ShelterPointDistillery

@ShelterPoint_Distillery

@ShelterPoint

Master distiller Tyler Schramm uses local organic Pemberton potatoes as the base for his extensive range of spirits and liqueurs.

WHISKY & WILD HONEY

FR Whisky and honey. Surprise!

FL Vanilla. Leather.

FE Velvety. Soft and luxurious.

FI Increasingly complex.

BE On the rocks. Maybe with more (peated) whisky added as a Rusty Nail alternative.

BL A tasty local alternative to products made abroad.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Schramm

Organic Potato Vodka, Schramm

Organic Gin, Pemberton Valley

Organic Single Malt Whisky.

Tasting Room yes

Rebekah Crowley and Rob Rindt built a distillery and tasting room on their Fraser Valley farm where they crop 30 acres of potatoes and corn.

REBEL

FR Cooked corn and orange.

FL Corn comes through with playful citrus notes and a touch of smoke.

FE Mild creaminess.

FI A little baking spice on the front, a touch of smoke on the back.

BE Could sub into a sour or Old Fashioned with some ease.

BL An interesting take on a young (soon-to-be) corn whisky.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Jackknife Gin, Vital Vodka, Double Vice Coffee Infused Vodka.

Tasting Room yes

Self-described “farmpreneur”

Patrick Evans and family established a distillery on their 380acre farm near Campbell River, growing their own barley for their single-malt whisky and vodka.

DOUBLE-BARRELLED SINGLE MALT WHISKY

FR Caramel and cacao.

FL Pronounced alcohol with baking spices.

FE Light and astringent.

FI Lasting toffee warmth.

BE In a Rob Roy.

BL Baking spice flavours play amazingly with sweet vermouth.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Shelter Point Single Malt Whisky, Canada

One Artisan Vodka, Barrel of Sunshine Liqueur.

Tasting Room yes

S HERINGHA M DISTILLERY

2631 Seaside Dr., Shirley 778.528.1313

SheringhamDistillery.com

@SheringhamDistillery

@SheringhamBC

SO NS O F VAN C OUVER

1431 Crown St., North Vancouver 778-340-5388

SonsOfVancouver.ca

@SonsOfVancouver

STEA LTH D ISTILLERIES

#3-20 Orwell St. North Vancouver 604-916-4103

StealthVodka.com

@StealthDistilleries

Jason MacIsaac was a successful chef before he turned distiller, and he brings his local, sustainable attitude toward food to his small batch spirits.

BARREL-AGED SEASIDE GIN

FR Salty and briney, mild citrus.

FL Citrusy, mostly lemon. Some juniper and savoury notes.

FE Mouth-coating. Very pleasant. FI Lengthy, with more of the savoury botanicals sticking around.

BE Cold with lemon zest.

BL I can typically take or leave oak-aged gins; this one is interesting and worth a chance.

–Trevor

Kallies

Other products include: Akvavit, Seaside Gin, Vodka, William’s White Grain Spirit.

James Lester and Richard Klaus are basking in the glow of global attention, following Kaitlyn Stewart’s use of their amaretto during the 2017 Diageo World Class Final.

NO. 82 AMARETTO

FR Way more apricot jam than the more traditional apricot pits.

FL More dried apricot flavour, raisin, caramelized fruit and honey.

FE Sweet and sticky.

FI Honey on toast.

BE On ice or over ice cream.

Seriously: Enjoy this.

BL Not your typical amaretto and better for it. Delicious.

–Trevor Kallies

Other products include: Vodka Vodka Vodka, Chili Vodka.

Master distiller Randy Poulin and Stealth president John Pocekovic specialize in vodka made from field-dried Okanagan corn.

STEALTH VODKA

FR Caramel, butterscotch even.

FL Toffee, candy corn.

FE Light.

FI Dryer than the nose suggests.

BE In a shaken cocktail with fruit or citrus.

BL A New World-style vodka for those who like sweeter drinks.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Stealth Vodka No. 9

URB AN D ISTILLERIES

325 Bay Ave., #6, Kelowna 778-478-0939

UrbanDistilleries.ca

@UrbanDistilleries

@SpiritBearVodka

VIC TORIA D ISTILLERS

9891 Seaport Pl., Sidney 250-544-8217

VictoriaDistillers.com

@VicDistillers

@DrinkVicGin

V ON ALBRE C HT & A SSO C IATES

2220 Vauxhall Pl., Richmond 604-249-0003

VonAlbrecht.com

XFourVodka @XFour_ @XFOUR_Vodka

A trip to France and an unplanned tour of a Cognac distillery put Mike Urban on the path to making his own liquor. He now owns the largest distillery in the province.

SWEET MEAD HONEY WINE

FR Honeysuckle, baked sweets.

FL Sweet, dry, nutty; orange blossom, orgeat, candied rose complemented by fall spice.

FE Beautiful, silky sweet, yet not too syrupy. Riesling-like finesse.

FI Slightly sweet, nutty, almost like an Amontillado sherry.

BE Solo in a small wine glass.

BL Phenomenal honey wine. Very versatile. Buy now.

–Shaun Layton

Other products include: Paul’s Tomb Gin, Spirit Bear Gin, Spirit Bear Vodka, Spirit Bear Espresso Infused Vodka, Urban Single Malt Whisky.

Tasting Room yes

Launched in 2008, Victoria Gin graces bars across the country. The distillery has since released two more expressions of gin, as well as the Twisted & Bitter range of cocktail bitters.

EMPRESS 1908 GIN

FR Green and vegetal up front with spice undertones.

FL Juniper, citrus. Lightly floral.

FE Quite a journey. Unassuming at first but then the spices take over.

FI Bitter and long.

BE Great neat, but nobody does that. Makes an excellent Gin & Tonic with lemon.

BL A well made spirit worth checking out.

–Josh Pape

Other products include: Victoria Gin, Oaken Gin, Left Coast Hemp Vodka, Sidney Spiced Spirit, Chocolate Liqueur.

Tasting Room yes

The XFour vodka range is distilled from rye and corn in Vernon; the lemonade base for their coolers is made from founder Marcus Von Albrecht’s great-grandfather’s recipe.

XFOUR BREMNER’S BLUEBERRY

FR Stewed blueberry with light spice.

FL Fresh and bright blueberry.

FE Clean and thin.

FI Lasting blueberry sweetness.

BE On the rocks.

BL Liberal use of B.C. blueberries gives a wonderful fresh flavour that lasts on the palate.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: XFour Handcrafted Vodka, XFour Chocolate Cocktail, Percy’s Old Fashioned Lemonade Vodka Cooler.

Tasting Room no

WAYWARD D ISTILLATION H OUSE

2931 Moray Ave, Courtenay 250-871-0424

WaywardDistillationHouse.com

WaywardDistillation

@WaywardDH

T HE WOODS SPIRIT C O.

1450 Rupert Street, North Vancouver 778-996-7637

TheWoodsSpiritCo.com @WoodsSpiritCo

YAL ETOWN D ISTILLING CO M PANY

1132 Hamilton St., Vancouver 604-669-2266

YTDistilling.com

Yaletown-Distilling-Company

@YTDistilling

Harking bark to the earliest recorded alcohols, Comox-based Wayward starts all its products by first creating mead to form the base, and add a touch of sweetness on the nose.

KRUPNIK SPICED HONEY LIQUEUR

FR Cinnamon, honey, nutmeg, vanilla. FL A beautiful fall day in a glass. FE Thick like a liqueur. I’d cut it with a base spirit such as rum or bourbon.

FI Warm, sweet, spicy. Yum!

BE Chill and sip on rocks or make a Whiskey Sour using bourbon, Krupnik, lemon, chai and bitters. BL These guys are doing everything right.

–Scott Barber

Other products include: Unruly Gin, Unruly Vodka, Depth Charge Espresso and Cacao Bean Liqueur, Elixir 151.

Tasting Room yes

At last, Joel Myers and Fabio Martini have begun distilling at their own space and a lounge is soon to follow. Their new gin takes a similar West Coast spin on a classic as their Amaro does.

AMARO

FR Bright, fresh rhubarb, bitter orange peel dominate. Quince and nutmeg, too. FL Bright, bitter citrus, herbs and unripe strawberry. FE A little thin. FI Quite bitter with clove, allspice and quinine. BE After dinner. Try as a replacement to the Amaro Nonino in a Paper Plane. BL Quality like this usually takes decades to perfect. A must-have for local spirit enthusiasts. –Shaun Layton

Other products include: Cascadian Dry Gin.

A successful brewpub in the heart of the city, Yaletown moved into spirits in 2013, distilling gin and vodka from B.C. barley. Tours and tastings are available.

YALETOWN GIN

FR Lemon and juniper.

FL Sweet and fruity.

FE Viscous, coats the mouth.

FI Lightly bitter.

BE Sweet and fruity, with a lemon backbone – a perfect match for a Corpse Reviver No. 2.

BL Produced from locally grown barley, this has a richness and mouthfeel reminiscent of a Genever-style gin.

–Robyn Gray

Other products include: Yaletown Vodka, Cranberry Vodka, Mandarin Vodka, Cucumber Gin, Hopped Gin, Artisan Honey Spirit.

Tasting Room opening soon

Tasting Room yes

ON THE TOWN

B.C. BARTENDERS WERE AWAY TO THE RA C ES AT THIS SUMMER’S DEIGHTON CUP COC KTAIL JO C KEY C OMPETITION.

2 Dave Mott (Brandywine Bartending Studio), Rod Redford (The Diamond). 3 Philipp Karatsyupa (Ancora), Yonah Sweetapple (Glowbal). 4 Victoria bartender Jayce Kadyschuk (Clive’s Classic Lounge) and The Botanist’s Chris Enns took second and third pace, respectively. 5 The Vancouver Club’s Michelle Medwin won with her creation, the Romaji — a Japanese-influenced cocktail with umeshu plum brandy as its base.

1 The Alchemist congratulates Vancouver’s own Kaitlyn Stewart, who took top prize at the Diageo World Class Global contest. Diageo World Class photo

Photos: Dan Toulgoet. Photo 5: Cathy Browne

THE LAST WORD

“THE IMPORTANT THING IS THE RHYTHM. ALWAYS HAVE RHYTHM IN YOUR SHAKING. NOW A MANHATTAN YOU SHAKE TO FOXTROT TIME, A BRONX TO TWO-STEP TIME, BUT A DRY MARTINI YOU ALWAYS SHAKE TO WALTZ TIME.”

NICK CHARLES (WILLIAM POWELL) COVERS THE ESSENTIALS IN THE 1934 CLASSIC MOVIE THE THIN MAN .

A CLASSIC BRONX

Shaken the Nick and Nora way

1.5 oz gin

0.75 oz dry vermouth

0.75 oz sweet vermouth

1 oz freshly squeezed orange juice

Shake all ingredients with ice and fine strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with an orange twist. Serves 1.

Dan Toulgoet photo at D/6 Bar & Lounge, Parq Vancouver

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