Vitis • Issue 11 • Spring/Summer 2023

FREE SPRING/SUMMER 2023

Issue

11

WHY B.C. BUBBLES MAKE US HAPPY WINERY LIFESTYLE BRANDS

DJ KEARNEY ON CALIFORNIA

LIGHTWEIGHTING GLASS BOTTLES

A SOUTH AMERICA WINE PRIMER BUTTER & BURGUNDY AT ST. LAWRENCE

OAKY FLAVOURS ARE OK. REALLY WINE NEWS

B.C. WINERY LISTINGS

06 – SIPS & NIBBLES

News and trends from wine country

10 – WINE LIFE

In the pink and sage with B.C.’s first true winery lifestyle brand by Charlene Rooke

14 – PIPETTE

Dipping into the wide world of wine by DJ

Kearney

18 – OENOPHILE

Why wineries are “lightweighting” their bottles by Joanne

Sasvari

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

22 – B.C. WINE COUNTRY

Pop! The future of B.C. wine is sparkling by Tim Pawsey

26 – WORLD OF WINE

Beyond Malbec: A primer to South American wines by Vitis Staff

28 – FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Pairing St. Lawrence’s haute Quebecois cuisine by Joanne Sasvari

32 – LISTINGS

Your guide to B.C.’s wineries

42 – WINE GEEK

Oaky: When the chips (and barrels and staves) are really down by Christine Campbell

COVER IMAGE: Getty Images

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Valeria Remizova Vitis.ca

@VitisMag • @VitisMag

PUBLISHED BY: Glacier Media Group 303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 778-240-4010

© Vitis 2023

This issue is complimentary.

Finding wines that delight at St. Lawrence. Photo courtesy of St. Lawrence

Sparkling wines are popping all over B.C.

Getty Images photo

Contributors

JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis, The Alchemist and YAM magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer who covers food and drink for publications including Food & Wine and Shondaland, and is the author of Island Eats and forthcoming Okanagan Eats

CHRISTINE CAMPBELL is a Vancouverbased freelance and travel writer, educator and host of the Wine Soundtrack Canada podcast. She is WSET certified and is a French Wine Scholar. Follow Christine’s adventures in wine and abroad at www.girlsgogrape.com.

DJ KEARNEY is a Vancouver-based wine educator, consultant, speaker, judge and global wine expert. Creator of the New District Wine Club, she is also Terminal City Club’s director of wine and vice-president of CAPS-BC, responsible for the Best Sommelier of BC competition.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly.com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

CHARLENE ROOKE is WSET certified in wine and spirits, and an educator for Taste of Legacy, adjacent to Vancouver’s Legacy Liquor Store. She is also the drinks editor of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario’s customer magazine, Food & Drink.

RAISE A GLASS TO SPRING’S FRESH FLAVOURS

Welcome to the Spring/Summer 2023 issue of Vitis, the magazine of British Columbia’s wine culture.

As this issue of Vitis goes to press, we are in the throes of B.C. Wine Month, which is pretty much our favourite time of year. It’s the sixth year that the province has marked the month of April by encouraging us to enjoy more local wine. This, please note, is not exactly a hardship: B.C.’s unique terroir produces wines that are at once full of flavour and beautifully balanced with a refreshing acidity that pairs beautifully with food.

But what we love most of all is the stories behind the labels, and we have plenty of those to share with you this issue.

Tim Pawsey looks into the future of B.C. fizz and notes that enthusiasm is bubbling over for both traditional method and Charmat sparkling wines. Turns out the late Harry McWatters was right when he said that bubble was the way for the province to go. Charlene Rooke discovers B.C.’s first true winery lifestyle brand—and surely there will be plenty more to follow. Christine Campbell deciphers what “oaky” really means. And, in Pipette, DJ Kearney investigates the latest goings on in California.

Also: We provide you with a primer to South American wines just in time for the Vancouver International Wine Festival. We learn how to pair the bitter greens and buttery sauces of Michelin-starred St. Lawrence restaurant’s spring menu. And we look into why wineries are starting to “lightweight” their glass bottles.

Right now, we’re celebrating B.C. Wine Month by enjoying the new releases and planning our visits to the wineries as they reopen for the summer season. We hope you’ll fill your glass with some B.C. bubble and join us on the journey.

Joanne Sasvari, editor

Raise a glass to our province's new releases. Wines of British Columbia photo

Sips & Nibbles

Vitis Staff

A MAJOR FIRST FOR HESTER CREEK

Hopley tells Great Northwest Wine magazine founder Eric Degerman in the most recent issue. “They are real tree trunks, and they don’t crop that heavy, so they make my life easy. I just try to respect the vineyards.”

That recognition is only the recent in a run of awards for the winery, which was purchased by businessman Curt Garland in 2004. Among them: The 2021 Pinot Gris Viognier won gold with 97 points from Australia’s Global Fine Wine Challenge, and the 2021 Viognier and 2019 Old Vine Brut won gold at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, where the 2021 Old Vine Pinot Blanc won double gold.

WINERY'S RESPECT FOR TERROIR REWARDED WITH MEDALS AND TITLES

If you’re looking for the oldest vines in the Pacific Northwest, look no further than Hester Creek Estate Winery on the Golden Mile Bench. In 1968, long before British Columbia even had a wine industry, an Italian immigrant named Joe Busnardo famously planted some of the region’s very first vitis vinifera on the property. It still bears fruit 50 years later.

Today the fruit it bears includes barrels of gold and platinum medals, as well as the recognition of being named Great Northwest Wine magazine’s first ever B.C. Winery of the Year.

The magazine hosts numerous wine competitions each year, including the Cascadia International Wine Competition and Northwest Invitational Wine Competition, where Hester Creek won multiple gold and double gold awards, before entering the Platinum Awards, where three of its wines took home platinum medals: 2019 Old Vine Brut, 2021 Old Vine Pinot Blanc and 2021 Sémillon.

Winemaker Mark Hopley credits the terroir—and the legacy of Busnardo’s vines—for the award-winning wines. “Some of these vines are pretty gnarly,”

THREE TO TRY

Hester Creek Estate Winery Sémillon 2022

(Golden Mile Bench, B.C., $24) Crisp, lemony citrus, fresh herbs, minerality.

Hester Creek Estate Winery Old Vine Brut 2019

(Golden Mile Bench, B.C., $35) Honey, lemon, brioche, ginger, delicate bubbles.

Hester Creek Estate Winery

Old Vine Pinot Blanc 2022

(Golden Mile Bench, B.C., $20) Stone fruit, melon, honeysuckle, green apple.

Photo courtesy of Hester Creek Winery

PULL UP A SEAT AT THE LONG TABLE

There’s nothing like dining among the vines or surrounded by the bounty of an organic farm. And no one knows that better than Aman Dosanj, the founder of the Paisley Notebook series of “pop-up-at-the-farm” dinners.

This year the chef is launching the seventh instalment of the al fresco series, each meal a thoughtful, intimate experience that is designed to bring community together. The dinners also connect her Indian culture with the bounty of organic ingredients that grow in the Okanagan Valley, not to mention the local wine and spirits.

"My farmers are my superhero power,” says the Kelowna-based Dosanj. "In a way, my cooking style takes things back to how food used to be— before herbicides and pesticides ran rampant in India's agricultural systems. Using fire and minimal equipment is reminiscent of how they still cook in villages."

This year’s schedule begins on May 4 at 99 Rows in Lake Country (with an assist from Ursa Major Winery) and includes events at Le Vieux Pin, Kalala Organic Estate Winery and Covert Farms Family Estate. Tickets are $160 per person plus tax. For reservations and information, visit paisleynotebook.com.

FIND YOUR B.C. PAIRING

Say you’re in Prince Rupert or Port Renfrew and you’re feeling a bit peckish and a lot thirsty for a glass of B.C. wine. Wine Growers British Columbia has you covered with the “Pour More B.C.” feature on their website listing some of the province’s best restaurants serving B.C. wine. Among them are the places you would expect—Vancouver’s L’Abattoir, Victoria’s 10 Acres, Kelowna’s Home Block at CedarCreek—as well as pleasant surprises in out-of-the-way corners of the province. There are hidden gems, too, including, literally, the Hidden Gem Restaurant in Kelowna. Find these eateries at winebc.com/pourmore-bc/ or through the Wines of BC Explorer App.

TOP: Paisley Notebook chef and fonder Aman Dosanj brings back her popup dinner series for summer 2023. Meg Frohler photo

BOTTOM: The Paisley Notebook dinners are all about connecting farmers, winemakers, culture and community. Jessica Zais Photography photo

WINE-SOAKED READS

These three new releases are best enjoyed alongside a glass of wine on a sunny afternoon.

The New French Wine: Redefining the World's Greatest Wine Culture , by Jon Bonné

This massive (and, at $176, pricy) two-book box set is billed as the first definitive guide to contemporary French producers (800 of them) and wines (7,000 of those). The managing editor of Resy and award-winning author of The New California Wine knows his stuff, and it’s all here. The book is packed with essential information, but it’s also just a darn good read.

Wine Witch on Fire: Rising from the Ashes of Divorce, Defamation, and Drinking Too Much, by

Natalie MacLean

It’s been just over a decade since the alleged plagiarism scandal that rocked the wine-writing world, and MacLean has bounced back with this dishy, soul-baring memoir. In it, the James Beard Award-winning writer and podcaster describes her own wakeup call, while pointing out misogyny in the wine world. This is one that people will be talking about.

2022: A VINTAGE TO REMEMBER

Oregon Wine + Food, by Kerry Newberry and Danielle Centoni

Considering a road trip this summer? Then let this gorgeous book be your guide. Over the last half-century, Oregon has evolved into a top wine and culinary destination. This book features stories from 40 of the state’s most influential wine professionals alongside 80 recipes showcasing the region’s bounty. Inspiring for cooks, wine lovers and hungry travellers alike.

Wines of B.C. has released its Vintage Report 2022, and it bears good news: It’s looking like one of the best vintages in recent decades. This may come as a surprise for anyone who remembers how the year began. The first half of the 2022 vintage was among the coolest on record. In the Okanagan Valley especially, winter started with a cold snap in December 2021 that caused a great deal of bud and vine damage in some locations. That was followed by a cool wet spring, and a late bud break and flowering at almost every winery. And then summer came along and seemed it would never end. In fact, the second half of the year was among the six warmest B.C. has ever experienced, with hot, sunny and dry days lasting late into October, but without the destructive heat dome of 2021 or the wildfires that have plagued recent years.

The result? Elegant wines with intense, vibrant fruit balanced with high levels of natural acidity. Stock your cellar accordingly.

EVENT CALENDAR

Clear your schedule for these upcoming festivities

BC WINE MONTH

Until April 30

For the sixth year in a row, April is B.C. Wine Month. All month long, Wines of British Columbia is offering a range of experiences that include education through the Ambassador program as well as new vintage releases, special deals and much more. Follow along on social media @WinesofBC and #BCWineMonth.

VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

April 22 to 30

Canada’s premier wine show is back in full swing this year. Some 800 wines from 17 countries will be poured, with South America as the featured region. Expect all your favourite events, including Trade Days, winemaker dinners, seminars and, of course, the international tastings. At 44 years of age, VIWF is one of the biggest and oldest wine events in the world, fully earning its slogan “The Wine World is Here.” vanwinefest.ca

HALF CORKED MARATHON

May 27

The most fun you can have sweating under the sun is back for its 15th anniversary run. Don your costume (the theme this year is “Back to the Future”), lace up your running shoes and head out on the 24-kilometre trail through vineyards, with stops for sips along the way. The traditional Primavera Dinner will be held May 26, with the Dinner on the Farm Saturday night after the run. oliverosoyoos.com/half-corked-marathon

COWICHAN VALLEY WINE FESTIVAL

August 1 to 31

The Cowichan Valley Wine Festival kicks off with a party on July 27 at Brentwood College, then follows up with the passport-style festival August 1 through 31. cowichanwineries.com

OKANAGAN SPRING WINE FESTIVAL

June 2 to 11

The fest is back! Events will be held throughout the valley including TASTE passports, the “WINE” Garden Party on June 3 and the Okanagan Spring Grand Tasting South on June 9. thewinefestivals.com

SUMMER CONCERT SERIES AT MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE

Various dates

Settle into the natural amphitheatre and enjoy a rock star lineup that features: Diana Krall on July 7; Dean Brody and Full Band on July 17; and Lyle Lovett & His Large Band on July 18. missionhillwinery.com

VICTORIA INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL

September 24 to 30

Hop across the Salish Sea to the provincial capital where you can enjoy tastings, seminars, winemakers’ dinners and much more. Tickets on sale June 1. vicwf.com

Photo courtesy Vancouver International Wine Festival

Photo courtesy Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country

Photo courtesy Cowichan Valley Wineries

Photo courtesy Wines of British Columbia

Winestyle

B.C.’S FIRST WINE LIFESTYLE BRAND IS FRAGRANT WITH SAGE AND PINE AND INFUSED WITH ROSÉ VIBES

Charlene Rooke

The “Birch merch” is designed to capture the distinctive Okanagan scent of sagebrush and Ponderosa pine. Photo courtesy of Birch Block Vineyards

Any modern shopper is familiar with the now-ubiquitous upscale boutiques found in any urban centre, sparely but beautifully curated with unique fashion and accessories, maker goods, perhaps some locavore treats and a sprinkle of home décor—including divine-smelling scented candles and other products. They’re known as lifestyle stores, and we all love them.

But are you ready for a B.C. lifestyle winery brand?

The style maven behind this made-in-B.C. innovation is Sarah Bancroft, co-founder with her husband Murray Bancroft of Birch Block Vineyard, located on a former llama and sheep farm in Kaleden. A former fashion buyer and editor, Sarah soon transformed the A-frame house on the property into a farmhouse-chic vacation rental with polished concrete floors, floor-to-ceiling windows and views of vineyards and wild horses in the distance. Murray, currently the vice-president of innovation at vegan food company Big Mountain Foods, helped design a true chef’s kitchen, complete with Italian appliances.

All the Birch Block Guesthouse needed was a final touch of ambiance, something that captured the spirit of a family-owned and operated vineyard where the couple has put in plenty of sweat equity. “You want to walk into a room or a house and get a feeling,” Sarah says. The feeling she set out to capture was an end-of-day moment in the South Okanagan, with a whiff of sage coming from the warm earth, perhaps the smell of Ponderosa pine needles clinging to your bare feet, as you relax with a glass of wine.

She knew that pine and sage were the iconic, nostalgic Okanagan scents she wanted to capture under the winery brand, “but I had to find the right suppliers, and the right wine.” Birch Block is primarily known for its rosé and pétnat, but it’s the earthy Pinot Noir, with subtle smoky tobacco and white pepper, that inspired her. She hand-foraged South Okanagan sage, a scent that lingers in some of the fine wine from the region. “Sage has so many natural properties,” she says, acknowledging its ancient Indigenous uses. “I knew it had to be in a bath soak.”

Bancroft took the sage leaves to Kristen Lambourne at Forest Etiquette, a Vancouver-Island-based maker of wild-

crafted body, skin and wellness products (@forestetiquette on Instagram, and available from an Etsy storefront and at various B.C. boutiques). The resulting collaboration is a pairing like no other: the aromas of the Okanagan Ponderosa Pine Candle and Okanagan Sagebrush Rosé Bath Soak (with pink salt) delicately echo notes found in the wine. Like any great pairing, they’re best enjoyed together.

“People want to be intentional about their wine consumption now, and one way to do that is to ritualize it,” Bancroft says. She describes the Birch Block Guesthouse’s vineyard-view tub as an ideal spot for a restoratively scented soak and sip—and a moment that can be recreated at home.

A bottle of the wine and a jarred candle and bath soak (so headily fragranced, it’s almost a room fragrance in itself) come packaged together in a Birch Merch Collection limited edition pack that’s perfect for gifting. Each product is also available separately (birchblockvineyard.com).

Coming next is the upcoming release of a unisex sage fragrance, inspired by the local tradition of so-called “cowboy cologne,” a scent that Bancroft says morphs with the character of each wearer. “Perfume smells different on everyone, which makes sense, because wine tastes different to everyone, too.”

End of day in the Okanagan has a special mood.

Getty Images photo

You want to walk into a room or a house and get a feeling.

“

People want to be intentional about their wine consumption now, and one way to do that is to ritualize it.

BRINGING THE WINESTYLE HOME

Though wine brands have long produced branded and promotional merchandise—think of Veuve Clicquot splashing its signature golden colour on everything from Champagne coolers to tennis balls—“nobody really needs another corkscrew or bottle stopper,” laughs Sarah Bancroft. She cites French beauty brand Caudalie, which uses grape and vine products among its all-natural ingredients, as one global wellness brand inspired by wine terroir.

Here are just a few locally inspired ideas:

• For a splash of Canadian-wine-inspired style in your closet and décor, the Saintly Collective (which makes both B.C. and Ontario wines) takes inspiration from its rosé to collaborate with makers. A capsule collection of upcycled clothing is the result, plus cute rosé-coloured sweats, bucket hats—even a rug that looks like a river of rosé. saintlywine.com

• You can also bring the taste of wine country home with meal kits, like the ones Phantom Creek Estates created this past Valentine’s Day: luxe take-home meal-kit boxes containing local delicacies like 63 Acres beef. Wine-country-inspired Naramata Inn also sells foodie items like its ultra-local preserves and famous granola

in-season. phantomcreekestates.com, naramatainn.com

• The most iconic B.C. wine swag to take home might just be the annual Winery Dogs of BC Calendar that is perennially on display and sold in many a tasting room, with partial proceeds going to the BCSPCA. polyglotpublishing.com

LEFT: The Saintly Collective offers a cheeky spilled rosé rug. Saintly Collective photo.

RIGHT: Perfect preserves from Naramata Inn. Naramata Inn photo

Polyglot Publishing photo.

WINERY OF THE YEAR

BRITISH COLUMBIA 2023

The breathtaking views, reminiscent of rolling Tuscan vineyards, encompass the historic Golden Mile Bench estate property where Hester Creek has gained recognition for its commitment to quality wines

WELCOME TO ROSÉ SEASON

877 ROAD 8, OLIVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA V0H 1T0

BRITISHCOLUMBIA

GNWW

2023

The clean, green, California dream

THINK YOU KNOW THE GOLDEN STATE? THESE NEW INITIATIVES ARE CHANGING EVERYTHING

DJ Kearney

It’s easy to become blithe about the juggernauts of the wine world. The prevailing interest in lesser-known wine regions, arcane grapes, regenerative farming and ultra-lo-fi winemaking is widely covered by the wine press. And while I love and support all things obscure, esoteric and low intervention, I love it even more when these philosophies materialize in mainstream, conventional wine regions. Like California, for instance. A recent trip was quite revealing.

THE GREENEST WINE REGION ON EARTH?

California is the world’s fourth largest wine-producing region, with 248,881 hectares (615,000 acres) of wine grapes, and the global leader in sustainable winegrowing. A staggering 85 per cent of California wine is made in a certified sustainable winery (that’s 258 million cases each year from 250 wineries), and 60 per cent of planted vineyards are certified.

While there are several protocols to choose from, most have adopted the statewide program called Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW). Sustainable wine growing covers the obvious areas of water and energy efficiency, soil health, preserving wildlife habitats, pest and waste management—all crucial points in responsible farming, and vital steps towards organic and biodynamic viticulture. But in its code, the CCSW places the same emphasis on people and prosperity as protecting the planet. To become certified, wine companies have to consider areas like housing, health care, education and social services for their workers.

The buy-in from the California folk is palpable. They are farming regeneratively, using natural ways to manage pests, setting land aside for habitat rehabilitation, reusing and recycling in the tasting rooms—and growing a gamut of grapes, officially 125 varieties now, not just Cab and Chard. Perhaps most important is the dialogue and human connection that has resulted. People are talking and sharing, and many winemakers told me that positive peer pressure (the encouraging kind!) is now the driving force behind the sustainability cause.

FARMING GOES DRY

More wineries are leaning into the notion of dry farming in the face of the state’s repeated drought cycles. The recent 12 atmospheric river events have refilled water reserves dramatically, but future droughts are a certainty. There is plenty of evidence that the more water-dependent the vines, the more stressed they can become in a dry spell, and they can often show more stress after irrigation than if they’d never received water. It’s a vicious cycle that has prompted some wineries to stop tilling their vineyards and plant cover crops, the two main ways to manage evaporation and water retention.

Others, more radically, have converted to dry farming.

Of course, you need the right water-retaining soils (like clay loams) and steady nerves, perhaps, but California has a good number of unirrigated vineyards as inspiration. Among them are the classic old vineyard blocks in Lodi, Amador and Sonoma counties. Then there are win-

This photo taken at Emeritus’ Hallberg Ranch Vineyard in January shows the point where the roots stopped when the vines were irrigated (upper arrow), and the extra depth the roots grew, searching for water, after conversion to dry farming (lower arrow). DJ Kearney photo

eries like Frog’s Leap or Dominus, which have dry-farmed from the get-go.

Emeritus Vineyards in the Russian River Valley converted its Hallberg Ranch vineyard to a dry farming regimen over a decade ago. Relying only on winter rainfall and the water holding capacity of its Goldridge soils, its vines adapted very quickly with little loss in bunch size or yield. The wines showed the change immediately, with deeper colours, more intense flavours, and more terroir signature.

There are still just a few new dry-farmed vineyards in California (and around 30 in Oregon), but the conversations are happening.

DITCHING THE DIESEL

WINE COUNTRY IN 3-D

California wine is defined by superlatives, ranging from the extremes of neutral bulk vino to profound, terroir-dripping wines. In between is everything from the fighting varietals to colossal brands to cult wines with prices that take your breath away.

Since the fame and attention that came in the wake of the 1976 Paris tasting, Californians have gone enthusiastically around the world promoting their wines, showcasing wines extravagantly ripened under golden sunshine.

Over the last decades, Californians have studied their soils, expanded the appellation system, and done all the work that maturing wine regions do. But now the perspective has undergone a massive shift.

This new perspective recognizes that the three-dimensional shape of the state dictates wine styles in a way far beyond the influence of grape variety, ubiquitous sunshine, latitude or temperature indexes.

Four features can account for wine style and quality in California, and this is the new education thrust rolled out recently by the Capstone Wine Certification program.

• Coasts: Ultra cool-climate regions like the new West Sonoma Coast AVA, where icy ocean upwelling, fog, cloud cover and salty air leave a clear stamp on style.

• Rivers and deltas: Intricate waterways, canals and sloughs that connect major rivers and create unique soil environments also create pathways for cooling ocean influence

• Gaps: Openings in the Coast Mountains, typically incised by rivers, allow the ingress of cooling fog, wind and cloud cover. They include Petaluma Gap, Chalk Hill Gap, Templeton Gap and Rainbow Gap.

• Mountains: Planting on the foothills and high elevation sites creates distinct flavour profiles and tannin structures.

Look out for this nimble number in the future: the Monarch MK-V electric, driver-optional, smart farm tractor. A world first, this Livermore-based tractor company did some trialling at another Livermore pioneer, Wente.

Comparing a John Deere diesel tractor and the Monarch electric model, Wente was able to quantify the annual savings in fuel and emissions, based on an average run time of 1,000 hours per tractor. Wente’s number-crunching findings? The Monarch had the competitive edge, with both massive estimated annual fuel cost savings and emissions reductions. And the Monarch finished with 24 per cent battery charge remaining.

This clean energy comes with a US$89,000 price tag, but as Melanie McIntyre of RAEN vineyards points out, it’s highly versatile and powerful, you can roll it up to a winery and essentially plug the winery into it, using the tractor as a clean power generator. Fully autonomous, it can make hairpin turns and it’s slim enough for narrow rows of vines. It’s an important, sustainable start that’s generated lots of talk.

More than simple latitude and temperature indexes, mountain building, deep sea trenches, surface water and geological history are the shaping forces that reveal and explain California wines.

The Monarch electric tractor rolls into a clean-energy future. Photo courtesy of Monarch

Nicknamed the Blue Grand Canyon, the Monterey Submarine Canyon hits depths of 3,500 metres (think Grouse Mountain times three) and its cold waters profoundly affect the climate of the Santa Cruz, Monterey and Santa Lucia Highlands wine regions.. Copyright David Fierstein © 2000 MBARI

On top of le monde

Perched atop 300 acres of ancient soil overlooking Okanagan Lake in beautiful Lake Country, O’Rourke Family Estate isn’t even open to the public yet, but is already raking in the awards for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Its most recent recognition: placing in the top 10 at the prestigious Chardonnay du Monde competition held March 8 to 10 in Burgundy, France.

The 2020 O’Rourke Family Estate Chardonnay received top honours from an esteemed panel of international wine judges. It was the sole Canadian winery to be recognized in the top 10.

The judges tasted 537 wines from 32 countries, in accordance with the international rules and strictly following Quality Assurance procedures. After three days of tasting, they awarded 178 medals—55 of them gold and 123 silver. (Canada took home a total of 11 medals, three gold and eight silver.)

Winemaker Nikki Callaway, who has received her fair share of international recognition through the years, is extremely proud that this inaugural vintage has already put O’Rourke on the world map.

“I could not be more excited for our entire team to have received such an esteemed award so early in our journey,” Callaway says. “The fruit in the Lake Country

sub-GI is truly exceptional and we simply let nature lead the way to showcase the elegant characteristics that Chardonnay is known for.”

The winery itself is expected to open to the public in spring of 2025 and will feature an experience like no other in Canada, including a winding network of underground caves, full complement of sensory tasting experiences, onsite accommodations, event space and multiple dining options. While construction is underway, guests will be able to sample the wines and meet the team at various private events and experience a vineyard vacation in their log home nestled among 100 acres of estate vines.

Meanwhile, it seems that proprietor Dennis O’Rourke’s vision for the winery is already becoming a reality—to be in a class of its own.

O’ROURKE FAMILY ESTATE’S FIRST VINTAGE TAKES HOME TOP 10 HONOURS AT CHARDONNAY DU MONDE

Winemaker Nikki Callaway is developing a global reputation for crafting exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

O’Rourke Family Estate’s winning Chardonnay.

O’Rourke Family Estate Winery For more information, visit ofestate.com

PASSION. PRECISION. PURPOSE. Get a Taste of it!

Westcoast Mediterranean inspired cuisine in a unique lakeside setting.

Discover what makes us one of Canada’s top wineries!

Open: 10:30am-5:30pm ● 250.499.5595

2582 Upper B ench Road, Keremeos C orcelettesWine.ca

Lunch // Dinner // Brunch // Happy Hour 6664 Deer Lake Avenue, Burnaby

HARTHOUSERESTAURANT.COM

Best in glass

WHEN IT COMES TO BOTTLES, WINERIES ARE WEIGHING THEIR OPTIONS—AND THEIR GLASS

Joanne Sasvari

Nothing says luxury quite like a dense, heavy, glass bottle of Bordeaux or bubble, its punt as deep as the pockets of the person who bought it. Right? Well, not so fast.

These days, glass is indeed a luxury. But not, perhaps, the way you think.

“Glass just isn’t as sustainable,” says Craig Pingle, the GM at Okanagan Crush Pad.

It’s not so much the problem of litter—glass is 100 per cent recyclable and most bottles actually do end up in the recycling stream—as it is the impact of producing and shipping it. Perhaps the biggest issue with glass, as

opposed to other packaging materials, is its weight. Glass bottles are heavy. And all that weight comes at a cost.

“It costs more to buy. It costs more to ship. It uses more greenhouse gases, which is a big issue for us when we’re trying to reduce emissions,” Pingle says. “And when we’re bottling wine in heavier bottles, there’s wear and tear on the people who work the bottling lines.”

In other words, glass can be bad for the environment, bad for the people working with it and bad for a winery’s bottom line—and ultimately, the consumer’s, too.

So what to do about it?

The days of the luxuriously heavy, two-pound glas bottle may be numbered, and for good reason. Getty Images photo

THE WHOLE PACKAGE

One answer is to look for alternative packaging. Cans, cartons, pouches and bag-in-box wines have long been popular packaging choices in France, Italy, South Africa, Australia and Germany. But in North America, many people still associate them with cheap plonk, so vintners have been reluctant to use them.

Then the pandemic came along and snarled up global supply chains, including the ones that carried glass, most of which comes from China and South America. It affected wineries “big time,” Pingle says. “[Glass shipping] came to a halt as soon as COVID started. Then when it did come back, everything was backlogged.”

Suddenly, those cans and pouches were looking awfully good.

Today you can find, among others, Stag’s Hollow rosé or Corcelettes frizzante in cans, Hester Creek Cabernet Merlot in a three-litre bag-in-box and Orofino Gamay in a 1.5-litre mag bag.

But the reality is, most wine is still packaged in glass bottles.

Glass is, of course, a wonderful medium for wine. It is sturdy, nonporous and impermeable, and has an almost

zero rate of chemical interaction. All of that preserves wine’s strength, aroma and flavour, and keeps it safe from contaminants. And, unlike plastic, glass is both reusable and easy to recycle.

Besides, it just looks so darn good.

But glass is hugely resource- and energy-intensive to produce and ship. To make it, glass, sand, lime and sodium carbonate are melted in fossil-fuel-powered furnaces that are heated up to 2,400°F. Once they are turned on, they stay on, running continuously, often for years. Now some manufacturers are looking at different options, such as using biofuel or electricity or systems that can be shut off and on.

Another option is using recycled glass, which requires much less than the 1.2 tons of raw material it takes to make one ton of virgin glass. It uses less energy as well. Yet another option would be a returnable/refillable bottle scheme, like the ones that already exist in South America and Europe.

Still, none of these tackles the issue of weight.

An average case of 12 bottles of wine weighs about 32 pounds; a case of sparkling wine can weigh 10 to 12 pounds more. Glass can account for more than half the weight in those cases, and that comes at a cost.

Aside from the raw materials to produce the glass, there is the cost of shipping it to the winery in the first place, then shipping it from the winery to the distributor, from the distributor to the retailer or licensee, and then on to the recycling depot or landfill.

Glass just isn’t as sustainable.

A concern over glass became a crisis when the pandemic broke global supply chains. Getty Images photo

Alternative packaging like the Orofino "mag bags" is one solution. Facebook.com/Orofino.Winery photo

That cost isn’t just in dollars, but also in energy use, carbon emissions and the impact it has on employees— the heavier the bottle, the more strain it puts on the workers who have to lift it.

So maybe the answer isn’t changing the packaging, but simply making it lighter, a process eco-conscious wineries have begun calling ”lightweighting.”

LIGHTENING UP

Here’s the thing: We think glass has to be made a certain way, and for centuries, it was. But with new technology, bottles can really be made almost any way we want. In Europe, for years producers have already been moving away from heavy bottles with deep punts, and toward lighter, well-tempered and equally sturdy glass.

Among those advocating for lighter bottles is the LCBO, the world’s single biggest purchaser of beverage alcohol. Ontario’s liquor retailer launched its Lightweight Bottle Program in 2010, under its Spirit of Sustainability mandate. Today some 90 per cent of the products carried at the LCBO meet its lightweight glass standards and, as a direct result, the LCBO claims to have reduced annual waste by more than six million kilograms.

And there’s really no reason not to lighten up.

The global average weight for a wine bottle is 500 grams (about 17.5 ounces), but manufacturers like Switzerland’s Vetropack Group can make bottles as light as 350 grams (about 12 ounces). It’s trickier for bubbles—if the glass is flawed, the pressure of the bubbles can make

it explode. But even there, new technology is creating lighter bottles.

Enter Okanagan Crush Pad.

In 2022, the Summerland winery became the first in Canada to join International Wineries for Climate Action, a collaborative working group of wineries committed to reducing carbon emissions, founded by the Jackson and Torres families. They had already adopted such sustainable practices as growing wine organically and using concrete tanks. (“An oak barrel you have to replace every five years; a concrete tank lasts forever,” Pingle says.)

The next step was to reduce the impact of packaging.

Aside from packaging their Bizou and Yukon range in pouches and cans, they started using recycled cardboard for cases. ”And then, of course, the glass that goes inside it,” Pingle says.

Specifically, they adopted a lighter-weight bottle for their sparkling wines.

“Our sparkling production is 20 per cent, give or take, of our overall production,” Pingle says. With the new bottles, each case weighs 12 pounds less than before. With a run of 3,000 cases, that’s an anticipated saving of 36,000 pounds—or 18 tons—in glass this year.

They also replaced the traditional cork with a Stelvin screw-cap closure, which has the added benefit of preserving the carbonation better, even if you recap the bottle and let it sit for a few days.

“Someone handed me the lighter bottle with the Stelvin cap and I was like, no way,” Pingle says. “It’s got so many different benefits, the more you think about it.”

“

Someone handed me the lighter bottle with the Stelvin cap and I was like, no way. It’s got so many different benefits, the more you think about it.

The Narrative 2022 sparkling wine comes in a lightweight bottle that proves bubbles don't need wasteful packaging. Photo courtesy of Okanagan Crush Pad

The future of B.C. fizz

TRADITIONAL OR NOT, OUR LOVE FOR SPARKLING WINE IS BUBBLING OVER

Tim Pawsey

There was no greater champion of B.C. sparkling wine than the late Harry McWatters. Before launching Sumac Ridge in 1979, McWatters cut his teeth in sales at Casabello Wines. There he learned the importance of being able to offer a balanced portfolio that spanned red and white as well as sparkling wines. It was a mantra he heartily embraced, even serving ice wine at every opportunity. Hence, once he’d established his “bread and butter” products—such as Sumac Ridge Private Reserve Gewürz, once B.C.’s biggest selling homegrown white—McWatters wasted little time in laying down his first brut wines.

Much of the impetus flowed from his conviction that conditions in the cooler central Okanagan (which he regarded as the triangle between Summerland, Naramata and Okanagan Falls) produced grapes with ideal levels of acidity necessary to make good sparkling.

McWatters and others drew on trials at Summerland Research Station, which also aided in the early development of traditional method wines by other early luminaries Blue Mountain and Cipes/Summerhill. Sumac Ridge released its inaugural Steller’s Jay brut in 1989.

McWatters’ choice of the protected provincial bird as his sparkling wine brand was somewhat tongue in cheek. Jays are fearless and known to have voracious appetites for ripe grapes. McWatters purchased Le Comte Estate (later Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards, now See Ya Later Ranch) from Albert Lecomte, who also made sparkling wine. Legend has it that Lecomte’s solution to the Steller’s Jay problem was simple: shoot them. Evidently, he could be a tad careless; one day he managed to take out not only a few birds but also the sole power line to Okanagan Falls.

The late Harry McWatters was an early proponent of B.C. sparkling wines, and believed they were the future of the wine industry. Darren Hull photo

Getty Images photo

“

Sparkling wine is what I drink while deciding what I’m going to drink with dinner.

—HARRY MCWATTERS

THE TRIANGLE AND BEYOND

A few decades on, McWatters’ triangle theory has proven to be more than just a hunch. Excellent traditional method, Charmat style and other effervescent wines are indeed being made with fruit sourced primarily from “the triangle.” Stalwarts like Blue Mountain have been joined in Okanagan Falls by Noble Ridge, Stag’s Hollow, Blasted Church and Meyer, who produce myriad styles.

Naramata Bench is home to traditional method specialists such as Bella and Township 7’s Seven Stars (whose Equinox scooped Best Canadian Sparkling Wine at London’s prestigious 2019 Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships). On Okanagan Lake’s mountain-shaded west shore, the Fitzpatrick Family have transformed Greata Ranch into a spectacular traditional method destination. Newer Sumac sparkling neighbours in Summerland include Haywire/Narrative, Lightning Rock, 8th Generation and Giant Head, while in Penticton, Time Family of Wines makes a range of styles under the Chronos, Evolve and namesake legacy McWatters labels.

Both in the Okanagan and elsewhere, the potential for sparkling wines is growing. In part the result of climate change, McWatters’ initial triangle has expanded significantly north to include the south and East Kelowna benches, where Tantalus (making Riesling, blanc de blancs and Pinot Noir) and Sperling are established traditional method producers, with Quails’ Gate planning to make sparkling wines with fruit off its new, southside planting not far from pioneering Summerhill.

In Lake Country, Gray Monk is a mainstay original traditional method producer, while neighbouring Intrigue continues to expand its Charmat range. Still further north, fledgling O’Rourke Family Estate has just released its first traditional method wine while further north still 50th Parallel enjoys continued success with its traditional method blanc de noir and Glamour Farming Charmat bubbles. Given the results so far, it seems likely the “up north” west side of Okanagan Lake also has serious sparkling potential.

Sparkling is also ascendant well beyond the Okanagan, both in the Fraser Valley and on Vancouver Island, where producers such as Averill Creek, Blue Grouse, Unsworth and Venturi-Schultze are pacesetters.

THE PROSECCO EFFECT

B.C.’s initial sparkling wine success was driven entirely by traditional method (bottle-fermented, hand-riddled and disgorged) wines. However, more recently winemakers have been turning to more economical and less labour-intensive methods, such as the closed tank system used in Prosecco. Italian sparkling wine production has almost tripled in a decade, a feat that would have been impossible were it not for the Italian Marinotti technique developed in 1895 and improved upon by France’s Charmat in 1907.

The Prosecco phenomenon has not gone unnoticed in B.C., where international sparkling wine sales have gone through the roof in recent years. While Charmat wines may not yield the complexity of their traditional

Many rows of white and pink sparkling wine sit neck down in the riddling racks inside a winery. The bottles are turned slightly every day to help the sediments settle in the narrow neck, for removal before final capping. Getty Images photo

Blue Mountain Vineyards was among B.C.'s early pioneers in sparkling wine. Getty Images photo

method counterparts, their larger volume potential with much quicker return on investment—as well as increasingly sophisticated styles—are proving popular with winemakers and consumers alike. Interestingly, they’re also serving to enhance the reputation of traditional method B.C. wines, some of which are seeing significant price increases.

As younger wine drinkers explore their options, wineries have been quick to respond by offering different formats and lower alcohol wines, especially in the form of lightly sparkling piquette in cans. Low in alcohol, piquette was traditionally made by adding water to grape pomace after pressing, and was often quaffed with lunch by farmworkers in the fields. Its popularity in B.C. is very much on the rise, as evidenced by piquette-inspired drinks (in bottle and in can) from the likes of Birch Block, Averill Creek, Tantalus and many more.

The low-alcohol and can options are also gaining ground in restaurants. Witness the wine list at chef Angus An’s Fat Mao Thai noodle house, which features solely wine or piquette in cans (the one exception being Orofino’s Gamay MagBag). In addition to providing some smart pairing choices (Averill Creek Gewürz-based piquette with hot and sour seafood noodles), the 375 mL can is just perfect for lunchtime sharing.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

The Spanish have cava, the Germans their sekt, Italians Prosecco and the French, of course, Champagne, Crémant, Blanquette and everything in between. Even the Brits (who arguably pop more corks than anyone else) are toying with the notion of naming their burgeoning “fizz” something other than, well, “bubbles.” (Unsurprisingly, “Britagne” proved to be a non-starter.) Yet we Canadians stoically march on with such riveting monikers as traditional method—which we also lazily lump in as just another sparkling wine.

Part of our problem, on the one hand, is that we really don’t like copying others—sometimes. On the other, there have been moments when we’ve been remarkably adept at shameless imitation with unabashed flattery.

Back in the 1970s, Baby Duck was Andres’ low-alcohol knockoff of a Michigan sparkly semi-sweet red named Cold Duck (itself borrowed from an old German custom of blending cellar ends). It was also not far removed from Britain’s immensely successful Babycham (a perry, as in pear cider), whose 1960s TV ads featured a Bambi-esque deer leaping in and out of Champagne cups with a slipstream of twinkling stars.

However, kudos to those Vancouver Island folks who at least had the smarts to coin highly original Charme de L’île for their Charmat sparklers. But when it comes to doing justice to our truly worthy traditional method wines, isn’t it time we Canadians came up with something just a little bit more exciting?

SIX B.C. BUBBLES TO TRY

Blasted Church OMG 2018 (Skaha Bench, B.C., $30)

Toasty, bright acidity, citrus, good length.

McWatters Collection Brut 2017 (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $65) Brioche, apple citrus through a rich palate, lemon close.

Narrative XC 2022 (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $25)

Luscious tropical notes, creamy lengthy palate.

Noble Ridge The One 2017 (Okanagan Falls, B.C., VQA, $40)

Toasty brioche, orchard and stone fruit, mineral and zest.

Tantalus Blanc de Noir 2020 (East Kelowna Slopes, B.C., $35)

Red apple, cherry, rhubarb, mineral and brioche.

Unsworth Charme de L’île Rosé 2018 (Vancouver Island, B.C., $29.90)

Red berries, raspberry, cranberry, crisp and dry.

Beyond Malbec

DISCOVER THE EXCITING OLD-WORLD-MEETS-NEW WINES OF SOUTH AMERICA WITH THIS HANDY PRIMER

Vitis Staff

In Argentina’s Uco Valley, the vines stretch as far as the eye can see, almost, it seems, right to the snowy Andes Mountains towering in the distance. It is, to be sure, a breathtakingly beautiful sight. But even more beautiful is the lushly expressive wine in the glass.

Wine is as much a part of the culture here as gauchos, beefsteaks and the tango. Indeed, grapes have been grown in South America since the 1500s, when Franciscan monks planted them for sacramental wine. But it was only in the late 1800s when wine became something refined and desirable, especially in Chile and Argentina.

In 1868, a French agronomist named Miguel Pouget introduced several vines to Argentina, including Malbec. Around the same time, Chilean growers imported cuttings of Carménère. Both are among the traditional six

approved grape varieties in Bordeaux; both have practically disappeared in their native country, thanks to the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th and early 20th century. Today, South America is one of very few places where you can find old root stock of these classic varieties, making it both a laboratory and library for wine lovers.

This spring, we can taste many of these exciting wines at the Vancouver International Wine Festival (April 22 to 30, vanwinefest.ca), where South America is the theme region. In addition to the Argentinean Malbecs and Chilean Sauvignon Blancs we already love, VIWF will present the opportunity to try wines from Brazil and Uruguay and varieties we may not know at all.

Before you head to the tasting floor (or the liquor store), here’s what you need to know.

The Andes Mountains tower over Argentina's Uco Valley, where intense sun and high altitude create bold-flavoured wines. Getty Images photo

ARGENTINA

Argentina is South America’s largest wine-growing country, and fifth in the world in terms of wine production. It’s famous for Malbec, which tends to be more voluptuous here than it is in France, where it originated. But plenty of other grapes grow here, including the perfumed white Torrontés (South America’s only native grape variety) as well as elegant Cabernet Sauvignon, both of which thrive in higher altitudes.

In fact, Argentina is becoming renowned for its high-altitude wines, which have intense flavour characteristics and fresh acidity, as well as old vine Malbec— some still-productive vines have been growing for more than a century.

Another variety to look for is Bonarda, the most widely planted grape here before the Malbec boom. Long considered simply table plonk, this red wine is making a comeback and, while it can be a bit jammy, modern versions are fresh, flirty and best enjoyed slightly chilled.

CHILE

By the late 1600s, Chile was South America’s largest wine producer, replacing Peru, whose vineyards were devastated by a major earthquake. Today it is ninth in the world in terms of wine production, and the second most abundant producer in South America. A relatively cool climate combined with low disease pressure and high altitudes create dynamic conditions for growing wine in the valleys that flow to the Pacific coast.

Chile is known for well-structured Cabernet Sauvignon and elegant Sauvignon Blanc, similar to what you may find in Bordeaux, as well as Carménère. This Bordeaux variety has almost entirely disappeared from the rest of the world; even in Chile, it was until recently believed to be a type of Merlot, despite having a similar flavour profile to Cabernet Franc.

Another variety to look for is País, a.k.a. Criolla or Mission. This is the grape the monks brought back in the 16th century and was for centuries the most widely planted variety here. Long relegated to cheap table wine, like Bonarda in Argentina, this rustic red is making a comeback, especially in natural, low-intervention wines.

BRAZIL

The wine industry in Brazil is growing rapidly, though we see very little of it in B.C. (Only one winery, Miolo, is appearing at VIWF.) The first vines were planted around São Paulo by Portuguese immigrants in 1532, but it wasn’t until a wave of immigration from Italy in the late 19th

century that it really took off. Most wine is grown in the southern part of the country and, unlike the robust style of wine typical of South America, many Brazilian wines tend to be light and fresh, with an herbaceous note.

Among the popular varieties: Merlot, Chardonnay and Tannat. Also look for award-winning sparkling wines.

URUGUAY

The history of winemaking in Uruguay starts around 1870, when Basque and Italian immigrants brought Tannat to the country. Then in the 1950s, Spanish immigrants introduced Albariño. Today, most of the major varieties are grown here—Merlot, Chardonnay, Cab Sauv, Sauv Blanc, Cab Franc—and you will be able to taste a selection from the two Uruguayan wineries pouring at VIWF.

That said, Uruguay is still indelibly associated with Tannat, which originated in the region of southwest France called Madiran. Tannat is a rigorous red grape and, as the name suggests, high in tannins. Its black plum, dark chocolate and smoky notes make it a perfect barbecue wine.

THREE SOUTH AMERICAN WINES TO TRY

Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec 2019 (Argentina, $27)

Juicy, bright, black cherry, violets, lingering spice.

Morande Valle del Maule Sémillon 2022 (Chile, $22)

Fifty-plus-year-old vines; citrus, pears, honey.

Garzon Reserva Tannat 2018 (Uruguay, $28)

Plum, raspberry, minerality, mature tannins.

Butter, bettered

AT MICHELIN-STARRED ST. LAWRENCE, UNEXPECTED WINE PAIRINGS ADD INTRIGUE TO CHEF J-C POIRIER'S RICH CUISINE

Joanne Sasvari

Spring at St. Lawrence means the bright taste of asparagus, artichokes, fresh herbs and all the lightly bitter greens of the young season. This being St. Lawrence, though, it also means all things rich, buttery and lavish with cream: puff pastry that shatters at the gentle touch of a fork, sauces as thick and lush as cut velvet, complex bites of savoury things braised, confited and stuffed.

It's all perfectly delightful. But it also presents special challenges when it comes to pairing with wine.

Now that chef-owner J-C Poirier has released his first cookbook, Where the River Narrows (written with Joie Alvaro Kent and published by Appetite), you will almost certainly be tempted to make, say, the tourtière or cretons or asparagus with chervil cream sauce and puff pastry. And

then you’ll wonder what to serve with it.

For that, we turned to David Lawson, sommelier and “director adjoint” of this Michelin-starred restaurant that combines the nostalgic flavours of Poirier’s Quebecois home with classic French haute cuisine.

Before landing at St. Lawrence four years ago, Lawson had worked at both a fine-dining restaurant in Ottawa where each of the tasting menu’s 12-plus courses were classically paired and at Montreal’s Joe Beef with Vanya Filipovic, “perhaps Canada’s best sommelier,” whose approach was completely different.

“She does things based on passion and intuition,” Lawson says. “When I find a wine I can taste that passion in, that to me is an immediate yes.”

At St. Lawrence, chef J-C Poirier prepares Quebcoic classics with haute cuisine technique. Carlo Ricci photo courtesy of Appetite by Random House

Often those wines come from smaller producers in less well-known appellations of France; Limoux instead of Champagne, for instance; the Jura or Basque region instead of Burgundy. It’s not just that those winemakers produce exciting wines; it’s also an opportunity to share something with their guests that they may never have heard of.

“When I go out to dinner, I like to discover something new, and I think a lot of people are like that,” Lawson says. “Usually we have people coming in wanting that new experience, and at the same time realizing that everything at St. Lawrence is based on tradition.”

And then there is the challenge of finding the right flavours to complement the food.

“St. Lawrence does rich food, but J-C has got an affinity for using a touch of vinegar or a splash of lemon and that’s great for me because I love pairing wine with bracing acidity. Even in our deepest winter menus, which are our richest, he finds a way to infuse some brightness,” Lawson says. “For me, some of my most engaging pairings are the ones that contrast rather than complement.”

Take those puff pastry dishes, such as the escargots in pastry shells or the mushroom vol au vent with “all that decadence and butter.” To go with them, Lawson would select “something with zippy acidity, a lighter feel on the palate. I really like a refreshing wine to go with J-C Poirier’s food. For the vol au vent, I like a brut naturel sparkling wine.”

It's the contrast of acid that makes you crave another bite, another sip, that makes you want to go back for more, he says. “If I’m having these buttery rich dishes, there’s nothing better than something palate cleansing, with good acidity.”

But when it comes to spring’s fresh, slightly bitter greens, which are notoriously difficult to pair, he takes a slightly different approach.

“Sometimes a counter pairing can work, but when it’s a bitter green, you want to lean into that,” he says. “If you have a wine with a green note, that can be lovely. But I’m looking for what else is on the plate.”

Take, for instance, asparagus. If it is in a vinaigrette, it demands a wine that has higher acidity. If it is in a cream sauce, it needs something a little richer.

In general, Sauvignon Blanc is a classic choice for bitter greens, but other good options include any of the wines that have “green” in the name, such as Portuguese vinho verde or Austrian Grüner Veltliner. “Any of these can do every well, depending on what else is in the dish.”

What if, though, you have an asparagus dish is at once rich and a little tart on top of all those green spring notes, like the asparagus with chervil cream and puff pastry in the book? “Chervil,” Lawson points out, “has a nice delicate flavour, so I’d stay away from anything with too much oak. I’m talking just a light kiss of oak.”

He might suggest a white Burgundy or perhaps an Alsatian Riesling. More likely, though, he’d suggest something totally unexpected from a region you’ve never heard of and send your tastebuds on a thrilling journey.

“Classics are classics for a reason, but we like bringing our guests new things. We don’t expect people to know these small appellations. We love to do that for them.”

Rich, buttery puff pastry is a signature component of many St. Lawrence dishes. Carlo Ricci photo courtesy of St. Lawrence

Photo courtesy of Appetite by Random House

“

When I go out to dinner, I like to discover something new, and I think a lot of people are like that.

CRETONS

Cretons are a rustic Quebecois pâté similar to French rillettes, high in fat and lightly spiced. St. Lawrence sommelier David Lawson suggests pairing them with a refreshing, slightly off-dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc, a low-tannin red like Gamay or, even better, Champagne. “Every bubble will steal the fat away and be delightful,” he says, but notes, "The Quebecer in me says it should be a nice cold Labatt 50.” Recipe from Where the River Narrows, by J-C Poirier with Joie Alvaro Kent (Appetite by Random House).

Yield: 1 terrine

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 2¼ hours + overnight chilling

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

Terrine mould, 10 by 3 by 3 inches (25.5 cm by 7.5 cm by 7.5 cm)

INGREDIENTS

1 lb (450 g) pork back fat, diced into ¼-inch (5 mm) cubes

½ cup (125 mL) water

2 Tbsp (30 g) unsalted butter

1½ cups (250 g) diced onions

1 Tbsp (10 g) roughly chopped garlic

1.7 lb (750 g) ground pork

1 cup (75 g) diced white bread

1¹³ cups (325 mL) homogenized milk (3.25% milk fat)

¼ tsp (1 g) ground cloves

1 tsp (3 g) ground cinnamon

1¼ tsp (3 g) freshly ground nutmeg

1 Tbsp + 1 tsp (15 g) kosher salt

1 tsp (2 g) freshly cracked black pepper

Toasted sourdough bread slices, for serving French’s mustard, for serving

METHOD

In a medium saucepan on low heat, gently cook the back fat and water until melted, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain into a small bowl, reserving some of the liquid fat for sweating the onions and garlic and layering over the cretons later on. The remaining cubed bits are the “fonte,” which will be added to the cretons mix.

In a frying pan on medium heat, melt the butter with 1 Tbsp (15 g) of the liquid pork fat. Sweat the onions and garlic, stirring often, until the onions are translucent but without colouration, about

15 minutes. Add the ground pork and continue cooking, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.

When the ground pork is almost fully cooked, about 15 minutes, stir in the fonte, bread, milk, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Lower the heat to low and cook for 1 hour or longer, until all the liquid has evaporated. Turn off the heat and let cool completely. Have a taste and adjust the seasoning if needed.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and pulse for 10 seconds to ensure the cretons are nice and smooth. Line the inside of the terrine mould with plastic wrap. Using an offset spatula, spread the cretons evenly in the mould, and cover with a layer of the reserved liquid pork fat.

Refrigerate overnight.

The next day, unmould the cretons by pulling the plastic wrap out of the terrine. Serve yourself a nice big slice, because you deserve it, along with a thick slice of toast slathered with butter and yellow mustard. “Trashy French’s classic yellow mustard is a must,” Poirier writes. “Nothing else will do. Trust me.”

Photo courtesy of Appetite by Random House

Vancouver Island

From the Saanich Peninsula to the Comox Valley, the Island has several pockets of microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes, especially cooler climate varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in seductively beautiful landscapes and surrounded by bountiful farms.

COURTENAY/ COMOX

40 Knots Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Auxerrois, Siegerrebe, Schönberger, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, orange, fruit wine, fortified wine 40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery

Ortega, Petite Milo, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, vermouth beaufortwines.ca

Coastal Black Estate

Winery

Fruit wines, honey wines coastalblack.ca

COWICHAN VALLEY

Alderlea Vineyards

Bacchus, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé alderlea.com

Averill Creek Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Foch, white and red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, vermouth, fortified wine, piquette averillcreek.ca

Blue Grouse Estate Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Black Muscat, Gamay Noir, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, orange, fortified wine bluegrouse.ca

Cherry Point Estate Wines

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe, Agria, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, red blends, rosé, fruit wine, dessert wine, fortified wine cherrypointestatewines.com

Damali Lavender & Winery

Pinot Gris, white and red blends, fruit wines damali.ca

Deol Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, Gamay Noir, red blends, rosé deolestatewinery.com

Divino Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Trebbiano, Pinot Noir, white and red blends divinowine.ca

Emandare Vineyard and Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine

emandarevineyard.com

Enrico Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Petit Milo, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Libre, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé, fortified wine enricowinery.com

Rocky Creek Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Foch, sparkling wine, white and red blends, rosé, fruit wine rockycreekwinery.ca

Unsworth Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignette, Petit Milo, Auxerrois, Amiel, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, sparkling

wine, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine unsworthvineyards.com

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards

Madeleine Sylvaner, Kerner, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, orange wine, dessert wine venturischulze.com

Zanatta Winery

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, Moscato, sparkling wine, rosé, white blends zanatta.ca

NANAIMO

Chateau Wolff Estates

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé chateauwolff.com

Millstone Estate Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, fruit wine millstonewinery.ca

SAANICH PENINSULA

Church & State Wines (Saanich)

Muscat, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

Deep Cove Winery

Ortega, Schönberger, red and white blends, rosé deepcovewinery.ca

Invinity Sparkling

Wine House

Sparkling wine invinity.ca

Rathjen Cellars

Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, white and red blends rathjencellars.com

Symphony Vineyard

Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white blends symphonyvineyard.com

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House

Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, sparkling wine, red blends, rosé, fruit wines roostfarmcentre.com

Gulf Islands

The Gulf Islands dot the Strait of Georgia that separates Vancouver Island from the mainland. Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Hornby, Denman and Thetis islands boast a laidback lifestyle and an oceanic climate ideal for the increasing number of wineries producing cool-climate wines.

DENMAN ISLAND

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, fruit wines corlanvineyard.ca

HORNBY ISLAND

Hornby Island Estate

Winery

Fruit wines hornbywine.com

Isla de Lerena Vineyard

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Agria, white

and red blends, sparkling wine, orange wine, fruit wine lerenavineyards.com

PENDER ISLAND

Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine seastarvineyards.ca

QUADRA ISLAND

SouthEnd Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine,

Fraser Valley

fortified wine, piquette southend.ca

SALT SPRING ISLAND

Garry Oaks Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine

garryoakswinery.com

Kutatás Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé kutataswines.com

Salt Spring Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines saltspringvineyards.com

SATURNA ISLAND

Sage Hayward

Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white blend, rosé sagehaywardvineyards.com

It comes as something of a surprise to many people to learn that there are more than two dozen wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including one right in Greater Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several offer additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

ABBOTSFORD

Cannon Estate Winery White and red blends, rosé cannonwinery.ca

Maan Farms Estate Winery

Fruit wine, dessert wine maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery

Ehrenfelser, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, orange wine, sparkling wine, fortified wine mtlehmanwinery.ca

Ripples Winery

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, fortified wines rippleswinery.com

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery

Petite Milo, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, red blends, sparkling wine seasidepearlwinery.ca

Singletree Winery

Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner, Siegerrebe, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, sparkling wine singletreewinery.com

CHILLIWACK

Whispering Horse Winery

Pinot Gris, L’Acadie Blanc, Epicure, sparkling wine whisperinghorsewinery.com

LANGLEY/ ALDERGROVE

Backyard Vineyards

Bacchus, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wine backyardvineyards.ca

Chaberton Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Bacchus, Madeleine Sylvaner, Siegerrebe, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine, fortified wine chabertonwinery.com

Glass House Estate Winery

Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Bacchus, Madeleine Sylvaner, Madeleine Angevine, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine glasshouseestatewinery.com

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines

krauseberryfarms.com

The Fort Langley Wine Co.

Fruit wines

thefortwineco.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley)

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon

Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Vigneti Marchetto

Pinot Noir, white and red blends

vignetimarchetto.com

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery

Siegerrebe, Schönburger, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, fortified walnut wine, piquette vistadoro.com

NEW WESTMINSTER

Pacific Breeze Winery

Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, red blends, rosé, orange wine, dessert wine pacificbreezewinery.com

NORTH VANCOUVER

Garden of Granite Winery

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Kerner, Viognier, Gamay, Syrah, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine gardenofgranitewinery.com

RICHMOND

Isabella Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fruit wines, dessert wines, icewine isabellawinery.com

Okanagan

Lulu Island Winery

Viognier, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Syrah, blends, fruit wine, icewine luluislandwinery.com

Richmond

Country Vines

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine countryfarms.ca/ country-vines-winery

SURREY

1st R.O.W. Estate Winery Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, fruit wine 1row.ca

Cityside Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, white blends citysidewinery.com

Vinoscenti Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, dessert wine vinoscentivineyards.ca

VANCOUVER

Vancouver Urban Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine vancouverurbanwinery.com

When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them featuring fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural experiences.

GOLDEN MILE BENCH

CheckMate Artisanal

Winery Chardonnay, Merlot checkmatewinery.com

Culmina Family Estate

Winery

Chardonnay, Grüner

Veltliner, Riesling, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars

Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

Auxerrois, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate

Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hestercreek.com

Road 13 Vineyards

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, red blends, sparkling wine road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co.

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé rustwine.com

Tinhorn Creek

Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tinhorn.com

KALEDEN

Anthony Buchanan

Wines

Muscat, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette anthonybuchananwines.ca

Birch Block Vineyard

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine birchblockvineyard.com

Black Market Wine Co.

Bacchus, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette blackmarketwine.ca

Farm Gate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, fruit wine farmgatewinery.com

Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakeboatwinery.com

Skaha Vineyard at Kraze Legz Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine krazelegz.com

KELOWNA

Ancient Hill Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Lemberger, Pinot Noir, Baco Noir, rosé ancienthillwinery.com

Camelot Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé camelotvineyards.ca

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Sauvignon

Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, cedarcreek.bc.ca

Kitsch Wines

Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine kitschwines.ca

Martin's Lane Winery

Riesling, Pinot Noir, icewine martinslanewinery.com

Meadow Vista Honey Wines

Fruit wines, honey wines meadowvista.ca

Mirabel Vineyards

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mirabelvineyards.com

Nagging Doubt Winery

Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends naggingdoubt.com

Priest Creek Family Estate

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé priestcreekwinery.com

Sandhill Wines

Sovereign Opal, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Barbera, red blends, rosé sandhillwines.ca

Scorched Earth Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

SpearHead Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, dessert wine spearheadwinery.com

Sperling Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,

Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine sperlingvineyards.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery

Riesling, Chasselas, Gewürztraminer, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé st-hubertus.bc.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine, icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, sparkling wine theviewwinery.com

LAKE COUNTRY

50th Parallel Estate

Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine 50thparallel.com

Arrowleaf Cellars

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Chardonnay, Petite Arvine, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine arrowleafcellars.com

Blind Tiger Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Merlot,

white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine blindtigervineyards.ca

Ex Nihilo Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine exnihilovineyards.com

Gray Monk Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Auxerrois, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Siegerrebe, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines

Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine intriguewines.ca

O’Rourke Family Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir ofestate.com

O’Rourke’s Peak Cellars

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine orourkespeakcellars.com

NARAMATA BENCH

1 Mill Road Vineyard

Pinot Noir, rosé 1millroad.ca

Bella Wines Sparkling wine bellawines.ca

Bench 1775 Winery

Roussanne, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Marechal Foch,. Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah,

Tempranillo, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery

Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Schönburger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackwidowwinery.com

Chain Reaction Winery

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine chainrectionwine.com

Coolshanagh Wines

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir coolshanagh.ca

D’Angelo Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine dangelowinery.com

Da Silva Vineyards & Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine dasilvavineyards.com

Daydreamer Wines

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, red blends, rosé daydreamerwines.ca

Deep Roots Winery

Chardonnay, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine deeprootswinery.com

Elephant Island

Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fruit wines elephantislandwine.com

Four Shadows Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot,

Pinot Noir, sparkling wine fourshadowsvineyard.com

Fox and Archer Wines

Sémillion, Pinot Noir, Malbec, rosé, sparkling wine foxandarcherwines.com

Foxtrot Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, rosé foxtrotwine.com

Hillside Winery & Bistro

Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, fortified wine, icewine hillsidewinery.ca

Howling Bluff Estate

Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine howlingbluff.ca

JoieFarm

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine

joiefarm.com

Kettle Valley Winery

Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel, white and red blends, dessert wine kettlevalleywinery.com

La Frenz Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon, Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, sparkling wine, fortified wines lafrenzwinery.com

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir,

Pinotage, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine lakebreeze.ca

Lang Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Marechal Foch, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine langvineyards.ca

Laughing Stock Vineyards

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, red blends, rosé laughingstock.ca

Lock & Worth Winery

Sémillon, Merlot, rosé lockandworth.com

Marichel Vineyard and Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, rosé marichel.ca

MOCOJO Wines

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Malbec, Merlot, rosé mocojowines.com

Monster Vineyards

Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine monstervineyards.ca

Moraine Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine morainewinery.com

Nichol Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine nicholvineyard.com

Origin Wines

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Malbec, red blends, rosé originwines.ca

Poplar Grove Winery

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine poplargrove.ca

Red Rooster Winery

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine redroosterwinery.com

Roche Wines

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Schönberger, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé rterroir.ca

Ruby Blues Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine rubyblueswinery.ca

Serendipity Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, sparkling wine serendipitywinery.com

Terravista Vineyards

Albariño, Roussanne, Viognier, Syrah, white blends terravistavineyards.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine therapyvineyards.com

Three Sisters Winery

Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, orange, sparkling wine 3sisterswinery.com

Tightrope Winery

Muscat, Riesling, Sémillon, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc,

Merlot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tightropewinery.ca

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata)

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine township7.com

Upper Bench Estate

Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zweigelt, red blends, rosé upperbench.ca

Van Westen Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends vanwestenvineyards.com

Wesbert Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinotage, Gamay, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, dessert wine wesbertwinery.com

OKANAGAN FALLS

BC Wine Studio

Grüner Veltliner, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé bcwinestudio.ca

Blue Mountain

Vineyard & Cellars

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine bluemountainwinery.com

Bonamici Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Barbera, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine bonamicicellars.com

Echo Bay Vineyard

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends echobayvineyard.ca

Liquidity Wines

Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine

liquiditywines.com

Mayhem Wines

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine mayhemwines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards

Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine mfvwines.com

Montakarn Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé montakarn.ca

Nighthawk Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine

nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine nobleridge.com

Rigour & Whimsy

Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, white and red blends, orange, sparkling wine rigourandwhimsy.ca

See Ya Later Ranch

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine sylranch.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard

Albariño, Pinot Gris, Vidal,

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Syrah, Teroldego, Merlot, red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé synchromeshwines.ca

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine wildgoosewinery.com

OLIVER

Bartier Bros. Winery

Chardonnay, Muscat, Grüner Veltliner, Sémillon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, rosé, red blends, sparkling wine bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate Winery

Viognier, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Syrah, red blends, rosé, fortified wine burrowingowlwine.ca

Cassini Cellars

Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, dessert wine cassini.ca

Castoro de Oro Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white

and red blends, rosé castorodeoro.com

Church & State Wines (Okanagan)

Muscat, Chardonnay, Marsanne, Rousanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, rosé, white and red blends, sparkling wine churchandstatewines.com

Covert Farms Family Estate

Roussanne, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah., Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine covertfarms.ca

Desert Hills Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine deserthills.ca

District Wine Village

Featuring: Apricus Cellars, Canter Cellars, Eau Vivre Winery, Foolish Wine, Gneiss Wines, JoiRyde Winery, Nk’Mip Cellars, One Faith Vineyards, Silhouette Estate Winery, TIME

Family of Wines, Uppercase Winery, Valley Commons, Winemaker’s CUT districtwinevillage.com

French Door Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé frenchdoorwinery.com

Gadzook Vinery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine gadzookvinery.com

Gold Hill Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé goldhillwinery.com

Here’s the Thing

Vineyards

Chardonnay, Viognier, Rousanne, Orange Muscat, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé heresthethingvineyards.com

Hidden Chapel Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan

Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Fumé Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, icewine inniskillin.com

Intersection Estate

Winery

Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Riesling, Merlot,Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and red blends xwine.ca

Jackson-Triggs

Okanagan Estate

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine jacksontriggswinery.com

Kismet Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine

kismetestatewinery.com

La Casa Bianca Winery

Riesling, red blends, fruit wines, dessert wines lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, white and red blends,rosé levieuxpin.ca

Maverick Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, red blends, rosé,

sparkling wine, fortified wine maverickwine.ca

Nostalgia Wines

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine nostalgiawines.ca

Phantom Creek Estate Winery

Riesling, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, red blends, rosé phantomcreekestates.com

Pipe’Dreams Vineyard and Estate Winery

Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Merlot, Gamay, Zweigelt, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine pipedreamswinery.com

Platinum Bench Estate Winery

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé platinumbench.com

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Carménère, Malbec, Zinfandel, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé quintaferreira.com

Rainmaker Winers

Rousanne, Chardonnay, Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, red blends, sparkling wine rainmakerwines.com

Ramification Cellars

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, sparkling wine, fortified wine ramwine.com

Red Barn Winery at Jagged Rock

Sémillion, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, red blends, rosé redbarn.wine

Red Horses Vineyard

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends, rosé redhorsesvineyard.ca

River Stone Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine riverstoneestatewinery.ca

Second Chapter Wine Company

Rousanne, Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec scwines.ca

Silver Sage Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, red blends, sparkling wine silversagewinery.com

Squeezed Wines

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé squeezedwines.ca

Stoneboat Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine stoneboatvineyards.com

vinAmité Cellars

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends vinamitecellars.com

OSOYOOS

Adega On 45th Estate

Winery Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate Winery

Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Grüner

Veltliner, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé bordertownwinery.com

Lakeside Cellars

Orange Muscat, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine lakesidecellars.com

Lariana Cellars

Viognier, Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends larianacellars.com

LaStella Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé lastella.ca

Liber Farm & Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé liberfarm.com

Moon Curser Vineyards

Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Syrah, Dolcetto, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Tempranillo, Touriga Nacional, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine mooncurser.com

Nk'Mip Cellars

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, icewine nkmipcellars.com

Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery

Bordeaux blend osoyooslarose.com

Sonora Desert Winery

Viognier, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé sonoradesertwinery.ca

Young & Wyse Collection

Pinot Gris, Viognier,

Gewürztraminer, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, red blends, orange youngandwysewine.com

PEACHLAND

Fitzpatrick Family Vineyards

Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine fitzwine.com

Hainle Vineyards

Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine hainle.com

PENTICTON

Little Engine Wines

Chardonnay, Sauvignon

Blanc, Sémillon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine littleenginewines.com

Play Estate Winery

Sémillon, Moscato, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine playwinery.com

TIME Family of Wines

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon

Blanc, Sémillon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine timewinery.com

SKAHA BENCH

Black Dog Cellars

White blends, rosé, sparkling wine blackdogcellars.ca

Blasted Church

Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Lagrein, Syrah, Malbec, Refosco, Teroldego, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine blastedchurch.com

Crescent Hill Winery

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Malbec, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine crescenthillwinery.com

Painted Rock Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé paintedrock.ca

Pentâge Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blacn, Viognier, Gamay, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine, dessert wine, icewine pentage.com

SUMMERLAND

8th Generation Vineyard

Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Merlot, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine 8thgeneration.com

Back Door Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Muscat, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinotage, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine backdoorwinery.com

Dirty Laundry Vineyard

Viognier, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec,

white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, fortified wine dirtylaundry.ca

Giant Head Estate

Winery Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine giantheadwinery.com

Heaven's Gate Estate

Winery

Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, Merlot, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine heavensgatewinery.ca

Lightning Rock Winery

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine lightningrockwinery.ca

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

Viognier, Chardonnay, Gamay, Merlot, red blends, rosé lunessencewinery.com

Okanagan Crush Pad Winery

Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine okanagancrushpad.com

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling wine, fortified wine sagehillswine.com

Savard Vines

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé savardvines.ca

Saxon Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine saxonwinery.com

Silkscarf Winery

Muscat, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, fortified wine silkscarf-winery.com

Sleeping Giant Fruit Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery.com

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé sumacridge.com

SummerGate Winery

Muscat Ottonel, Kerner, Riesling, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine summergate.ca

Summerland Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine summerlandestatewinery.com

Thornhaven Estates Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thornhaven.com

WEST KELOWNA

Beaumont Family Estate Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine beaumontwinery.com

Black Swift Vineyards

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé blackswiftvineyards.com

Ciao Bella Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, rosé, sparkling wine ciaobellawinery.com

Crown & Thieves

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine crownthieves.com

Frind Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine frindwinery.com

Grizzli Winery

Muscat, Siegerrebe, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, red blends, dessert wine, icewine, fruit wine grizzliwinery.com

Indigenous World Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, white and red blends indigenousworldwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine kalalawines.ca

Little Straw Vineyards Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine littlestraw.bc.ca

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery

Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine missionhillwinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sémillon, Chenin Blanc, Syrah, Carménère, Sangiovese, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc,

Similkameen

Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch, white and red blends, orange, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine mtboucherie.com

Niche Wine Company

Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, sparkling wine nichewinecompany.com

Off The Grid Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zweigelt, white blends, rosé, dessert wine offthegridorganicwinery.com

Quails' Gate Winery

Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wine, icewine quailsgate.com

Rollingdale Winery

Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, sparkling wine, dessert wine, icewine, fortified wine rollingdale.ca

Tender Hope Winery

Riesling, Rousanne, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine tenderhopewinery.com

The Hatch

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine thehatchwines.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Zweigelt, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, icewine volcanichillswinery.com

Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from fruit-driven reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few tasting rooms here, there are many vineyards that grow grapes for wineries in other regions.

CAWSTON

Bottega Wine Studios

Viognier, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé bottegawinestudio.ca

Crowsnest Vineyards

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends, rosé, dessert wines crowsnestvineyards.com

Eau Vivre Winery & Vineyards

Riesling, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, white and red blends eauvivrewinery.ca

Forbidden Fruit Winery

Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, white and

red blends, rosé, fruit wines forbiddenfruitwine.com

Horseshoe Found Winery

Muscat, Viognier, Pinot Noir, white blends horseshoefoundwinery.com

Hugging Tree Winery

Viognier, Merlot, red blends, rosé huggingtreewinery.com

Little Farm Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, red blends, orange, rosé littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards

Muscat, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Zinfandel, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine orofinovineyards.com

Rustic Roots Winery

Fruit wines, dessert wines rusticrootswinery.com

Scout Vineyard

Riesling, Syrah, rosé scoutvineyard.com

Seven Stones Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, red blends, rosé sevenstones.ca

S’milka Vista

Viognier, Syrah, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé smilkavista.com

Vanessa Vineyard Estate Winery

Viognier, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé vanessavineyard.com

Other regions

KEREMEOS

Clos Du Soleil Winery

Viognier, Pinot Gris, Fumé Blanc, Syrah, white and red blends, rosé closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet

Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery

Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Gamay, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine robinridgewinery.com

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them. But given the awards they’re pulling in, these wineries will become famous soon enough. And who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

THOMPSON VALLEY

Harper's Trail Estate Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc, red blends harperstrail.com

Monte Creek Winery

Chardonnay, Frontenac Gris, Riesling, La Crescent, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette, fruit wine montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white and red blends, rosé, sparkling wine privato.ca

Sagewood Winery

Pinot Gris, Kerner, Riesling, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Marechal Foch, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine sagewoodwinery.ca

LILLOOET

Cliff and Gorge Vineyards

Marechal Foch, Petite Milo, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, white blends, rosé cliffandgorge.com

Fort Berens Estate Winery

Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, red blends fortberens.ca

SHUSWAP

Baccata Ridge Winery

Marechal Foch, red blends, fruit wines, honey wines baccataridgewinery.ca

Celista Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines, fortified wines celistawine.com

Edge Of The Earth Vineyards

Ortega, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine edgeearth.ca

Larch Hills Winery

Ortega, Sémillon, Siegerrebe, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Merlot, Marechal Foch, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, red and white blends, rosé, sparkling wine, dessert wine larchhillswinery.com

Marionette Winery

Riesling, Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, Merlot, white blends,

rosé, dessert wine marionettewinery.com

Ovino Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, white and red blends,rosé, dessert wines ovinowinery.com

Recline Ridge

Vineyards & Winery

Ortega, Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Kerner, Pinot Gris, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines reclineridgewinery.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery

Siegerrebe, Ortega, Kerner, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé sunnybraewinery.com

Waterside Vineyard & Winery

Siegerrebe, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Marechal Foch, white and red blends, rosé, dessert wines watersidewinery.com

KOOTENAYS

Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, white blends, orange, rosé bailliegrohman.com

Columbia Gardens

Vineyard & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Marechal

Foch, Merlot, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé, fortified wine cgwinery.com

Red Bird Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, red blends, rosé, sparkling wine, piquette redbirdwine.com

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard

Pinot Gris, Ortega, Marechal Foch, Pinot Noir, white and red blends, rosé skimmerhorn.ca

Valley of the Springs

Winery

Rivaner, Gewürztraminer, Marechal Foch, Gamay, Zweigelt, red blends, sparkling wine, rosé valleyofthespringswinery.com

Wynnwood Cellars

Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot,Pinot Noir, rosé wynnwoodcellars.com

PRINCE GEORGE

Northern Lights Estate Winery Ltd.

Fruit wines northernlightswinery.ca

Oaky

LOVE IT OR HATE IT, OAK IS AN ESSENTIAL WINEMAKING TOOL

Christine Campbell

In the wine world, “oaky” is a common term used to describe the flavour of wine—for a good reason

While oak barrels stacked in perfect rows at a winery are a thing of visual beauty, the primary use of oak in wine production is to influence its flavour. (It also allows oxygen exchange, which makes wine smoother and less astringent, and creates a stable environment for metabolic reactions like malolactic fermentation to occur.)

The amount of oaky flavour depends on certain factors. Broadly they are: type of oak; seasoning and toast; barrel size; amount of time the barrel has been in use; and length of time wine is in contact with the oak barrel.

Winemakers often use French or American barrels: French oak is fine-grained and typically imparts refined tobacco, coffee bean and chocolate flavours; American has wider grains in the wood and can introduce intense notes of vanilla, sweet spice and coconut.

Once the type of oak is decided, winemakers choose the level of “toast.” Barrels used for aging wine are produced by treating the wood staves with fire, a.k.a. toasting them. A light, medium or heavily toasted barrel will affect the wine inside; the heavier the toast, the more intense the flavours of vanilla, coffee and spice.

When it comes to oak wine barrels, size matters! Smaller barrels bring more wine into contact with the wood and add more oaky flavour. Most oak barrels in win-

eries are 225 litres (Bordeaux) or 228 litres (Burgundy), equivalent to 25 cases of wine, but can range to 500-litre puncheons and massive 30,000-litre French foudres.

Like a tea bag, oak flavour extraction is reduced every time a barrel is used. The first use imparts the most flavour, the second fill delivers slight flavours. By the time a barrel is used for its third time, barely any oak flavour is noticeable—the main reason to use it is to allow air exchange to mellow the flavours.

The amount of time wine spends in oak barrels is also a consideration. On average, wine can age in oak from six months to three years.

Winemakers have other options to impart oaky flavours. When added to fermenting or aging wine, oak chips, oak staves and even wood powder can affect a wine’s taste. These methods introduce an oaky flavour in a matter of weeks rather than months or years.

FOUR

OAKED B.C. WINES TO TRY

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery Chardonnay 2020 (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $25.97)

Half fermented in French oak; peach, pear, vanilla, a hint of baking spice.

Tightrope Winery Fleetwood Vineyard Merlot 2020 (Naramata Bench, B.C., $31)

12 months in French oak; plum, cherry, tobacco, a lingering finish.

TIME Family of Wines McWatters Collection White Meritage (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon) 2020 (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $29.99)

Half the Sémillion fermented in oak; grapefruit, citrus, complex.

Blasted Church Vineyards Syrah 2018 (Okanagan Valley, B.C., $32)

French, American and Hungarian oak; cured meat, blackberry, black pepper, excellent acidity.

The primary use of oak in wine production is to influence its flavour.