VITIS • Issue 1 • Spring/Summer 2018

Where Davie Street meets False Creek in Vancouver’s popular Yaletown neighbourhood, Provence Marinaside is a great place to meet your friends or relax with family. Choose to sit at the bar or on the patio and watch the action in the marina or on the seawall.

Provence Marinaside’s award winning food, warm ambiance and friendly service turns every meal into a special occasion. With more than 200 wines available by the glass, we’re sure you can nd something to toast—join us and raise a glass today.

At The Wine Bar, we have an extensive list of wines from around the globe. Recently awarded gold in the Vancouver International Wine Festival awards, our wine list is one of the largest by-the-glass lists in Western Canada with over 200 wines available.

With wines starting at only $5, a view of the seawall, and great service, our Tappy Hour is the place to be every day from 3:00 to 5:00 and 10:00 to close.

1167 Marinaside Cres | 604.681.4144 | www.thewinebar.ca

06 – SIPS & NIBBLES

News and trends from the world of B.C. wine

12 – IT’S TIME

Harry McWatters’ new urban winery is a game changer for Penticton by

Tim Pawsey

16 – WINE LIFE

The cheap and cheerful sippers we enjoy in summer by

Joanne Sasvari

20 – SAVOUR THE SIMILKAMEEN

B.C.’s “unknown” wine region has a moment by

Rhys Pender

24 – IN THE VINEYARD

The surprising global grapes grown in B.C. by

Treve Ring

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent • gnugent@glaciermedia.ca

EDITOR:

Joanne Sasvari • jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq • trafiq@glaciermedia.ca

29 – IT’S ONLY NATURAL

What you need to know about natural wine

by Charlene Rooke

33 – THE ART OF THE WINE LIST

Three somms share their secrets to success by

Daenna Van Mulligen

38 – FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A new chef partnership turns up the heat in wine country by Joanne Sasvari

42 – LISTINGS

Your guide to B.C.’s wineries

54 – WINE GEEK

Discovering the charms of Charmat by Sujinder Juneja

PUBLICATION AND BRAND DESIGN: Anja Werner • Brave Creative

SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Kelsey Klassen

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER: Dan Toulgoet (inside & cover)

PUBLISHED BY:

Glacier Media Group 303 W. 5th Ave., Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 604-742-8678

Vitis.ca

@VitisMag • @VitisMag

© Vitis 2018 This issue is complimentary.

Time Winery photo

Contributors

JOANNE SASVARI is editor of Vitis and The Alchemist magazines. She also writes about food and drink for publications including WestJet, TASTE and Vancouver Sun, and is author of the Wickaninnish and Vancouver Eats cookbooks.

SUJINDER JUNEJA is a freelance writer who contributes regularly to Vancouver Magazine and The Planter’s Guide. A French wine scholar and WSET diploma candidate, he prefers his music dialed to 11.

TIM PAWSEY writes and shoots at hiredbelly.com as well as for publications including Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s a frequent wine judge and is a founding member of the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.

RHYS PENDER is a Master of Wine who combines his time writing, judging, teaching, consulting and dirtying his boots at his four-acre vineyard and winery, Little Farm Winery, in the Similkameen Valley.

TREVE RING is a wine writer, judge, speaker, and perpetual traveller. A certified sommelier, WSET diploma holder, French wine scholar and Sherry instructor, she is based on Vancouver Island, but is most often found on a plane or in a vineyard.

CHARLENE ROOKE writes about and drinks wine in Vancouver while working toward WSET Level 3 certification. Her family has Okanagan roots as former Kelowna orchardists, and she loves dry, aromatic white wines.

DAENNA VAN MULLIGEN is a sommelier, educator, keynote speaker and radio host who launched WineDiva.ca 15 years ago, and WineScores.ca soon after. She is also a regular contributor to TASTE, Vines and Montecristo magazines.

Welcome to Vitis! We are thrilled to launch this new wine magazine, designed to bring wine country home to you.

In our inaugural issue, we cover the stories everyone is talking about in the world of B.C. wine.

Writer Tim Pawsey catches up with B.C. wine legend Harry McWatters and his new urban winery, page 12. Master of Wine Rhys Pender describes how the Similkameen Valley, where his own winery is located, is catching up to the future, page 20.

Charlene Rooke samples the controversy over natural wines, page 29, while Daenna Van Mulligen looks into what makes a winning wine list, page 33, and Treve Ring discovers some unusual global grapes growing in our backyard, page 24.

Plus we have lots more delicious tidbits for you to sample in this issue.

Santé, salut, prost, cin cin and cheers—however, you say it, please raise a glass to Vitis, and we hope you enjoy!

—Joanne Sasvari, editor

Every day in B.C. wine country is a good day. How could it be otherwise when the scenery is as beautiful as it is at Corcelettes Estate Winery in the Similkameen Valley? Similkameen Independent Wineries Association photo

Sips & Nibbles

Vitis Staff

SIP, S PIT, COMPETE

For the first time ever, this year the prestigious and hotly contested Best Sommelier of the Americas competition will be held in Canada. From May 21 to 24, top somms from Canada, the U.S., Mexico and points south will gather in Montreal to match palates and show off their skills at selecting, tasting, opening, pouring and serving wine.

The event is organized by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale and Alianza Pan Americana de Sommeliers and has been held every three years since 2006. (The ASI has also been holding the tri-annual World's Best Sommelier Competition since 1969.) Canada has performed particularly well at this event; Quebecers Elyse Lambert and Veronique Rivest took home the top prize in 2009 and 2012 respectively. We’ll be cheering on this year’s Canuck contestants, too.

Meanwhile, the Best Sommelier of B.C. 2018 title has gone to Sean Nelson of Vij’s Restaurant. He out-tasted 12 other competitors in a contest that came down to a nail-biting final battle between himself, second-place winner Matthew Landry of the Stable House Bistro and third-place winner Todd Prucyk of Hawksworth Restaurant.

It was the fourth annual competition organized by the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers British Columbia Chapter, and was held Jan. 31 at Rogers Arena.

For the first time in Canada, CAPS BC also hosted the 2018 BC Aspiring Sommelier Competition, which was won by Ian Wharton of Blue Water Café; the runner up was Alex Anderson of Tap Restaurant. Congrats to all the winners and competitors. For info, visit sommelierscanada.com.

Sean Nelson. CAPS photo

T HAT’ S THE S PIRIT!

It’s the moment those in the know wait for each year at the Vancouver International Wine Festival: the announcement of the Spirited Industry Professional Award, honouring an individual who has made a significant contribution to the sales, service or promotion of wine in British Columbia.

All that is certainly true of this year’s winner: Barbara Philip, the first Western Canadian and only Canadian woman to achieve the Master of Wine designation. For nearly a decade, Philip has not only managed the European portfolio at BC Liquor Stores, she has also been an international presenter, educator, journalist and judge for competitions including Decanter World Wines Awards, the largest wine competition in the world. She is also the former vice-president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers B.C. Chapter.

Who’s next? We’ll find out in February at the 2019 Vancouver International Wine Festival, when California will be the theme region. vanwinefest.ca

CANADIAN, EH?

It’s a battle that has been fought long and hard and finally won by champions of Canadian wine: As of this spring, the controversial “Cellared in Canada” label is no more.

In March, the Canadian Food Inspection Agency announced that the 20-plus-year-old label designation “Cellared in Canada from imported and/or domestic wines,” would be changed to “International blend from imported and domestic wines” for predominantly imported wines and, for mainly domestic ones, “International blend from domestic and imported wines.”

Over the two decades of CIC labelling, there had been numerous and vociferous complaints from wine industry stakeholders and consumers alike. At issue was confusion about what wines were truly Canadian. With a young industry eager

to prove itself on the world stage, many felt that slapping the word “Canada” on wines made from grapes that originated in, say, Chile or California not only confused the consumer, but detracted from the uniqueness of grapes grown here.

Throughout the summer of 2016, the Canadian Vintners Association discussed the issue with its regional partners (British Columbia Wine Institute, Winery & Grower Alliance of Ontario and Wine Association of Nova Scotia) and interviewed wine producers and major retailers across Canada. Then, last June, the CFIA conducted a public survey on the proposed changes, with 81 per cent of respondents supporting the new language.

The BCWI for one is delighted by the change: “A wine label tells consumers what they are buying and what they are drinking,” the organization said in a release. “It is important the label accurately identifies the origin of the wine.”

Christine McAvoy photo

RUN FO R FUN (AND WINE, OF C OU R SE)

Even before you set off through the vineyards, it’s clear that this is no ordinary race: Half the crowd is in costume, and the other half is only here for the wine. Welcome to the Half Corked Marathon Weekend, the most fun you can have in a pair of running shoes and the 2017 winner of the Canadian Tourism Awards’ Canadian Event of the Year.

This year’s race will run (and hobble, hop, stumble and stroll) through the vineyards around Oliver on May 26. Primavera, the carb-loading pasta feast that kicks things off, will be held May 25, and the festive Party at the Finish Line follows the race in Oliver. Mind you, for those not actually running, the party starts well before the first runners cross the finish line.

Tickets are allocated by lottery and, unfortunately, this year’s lottery is already closed. But that doesn’t mean you can’t swing by the after-party and sample some of the flavourful wines of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country while you cheer on the participants. oliverosoyoos.com

SPRING INTO S PRING

Can’t wait to sample all the new wine releases but wondering how you’ll ever get around to them all? The Okanagan Wine Festivals Society has you covered this spring with a couple of can’t-miss events.

The season kicks off with the Best of Varietal Awards and Reception on May 2 at the Penticton Trade and Convention Centre. Winemakers and winery owners will be on hand for an exclusive tasting of the best varietals in British Columbia, following the awards ceremony. Tickets are only $59 but are very limited so book early.

Missed your window for tickets? Not to worry because the WestJet Wine Tastings will follow May 4 to 5 at Kelowna’s Rotary Centre for the Arts. Here you’ll be able to sample more than 250 B.C. wines all under one roof, along with appies, live music and a photo booth. Tickets for the lively and fun event are $79. For tickets and info, visit thewinefestivals.com.

B.C. WINE FACTS

According to the BC Wine Institute, British Columbia has:

vineyards;

licensed wineries;

BEYOND THE BOTTLE

Cardboardeaux? Mais non. The once mocked and reviled boxed wine is finally getting its day in the sun, or at least at your next backyard party.

So-called “cask wines” have come a long way since they were introduced in the 1960s. Although they rarely hold the finest vintages, the three- or four-litre boxes often boast perfectly drinkable wines. They are also convenient, produce less waste than bottles, take up less space in your fridge or on your counter, and they are fantastic value. Oh—and you don’t need a corkscrew to get at your Cabernet.

More and more boxed wines are entering the B.C. market all the time. Sales are soaring; reports suggest they’ve increased by 45 per cent over the last five years in B.C. The quality’s getting better all the time, too, with prestigious labels entering the box zone and even local wineries such as Naramata’s Monster Vineyards offering boxed wines.

And if boxed wine isn’t your thing, perhaps tetra paks or canned wines are. These are handy for camping or weekends at the cabin, and although they haven’t taken our market by storm the way they have in, say, Australia or even Alberta, we can expect to see more here soon, too.

BC VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) is the appellation of origin and quality standard for British Columbia wine, established in 1990.

When you see BC VQA on a bottle, it ensures that the wine inside is 100 per cent grown and made in British Columbia.

—winebc.com

Monster Vineyards photo

T HE REEL DEAL

Consider it a feast for your eyes—and on your plate. From June 15 to 17, the Watermark Beach Resort in Osoyoos will host the third annual Devour! The Food Film Fest. The tastiest film festival in B.C. might not have the red-carpet celebrities of Toronto or Cannes, but what it offers is even better: a whole weekend of food and wine culture events.

The festival was created in Nova Scotia in 2013 and held its first Okanagan pop-up at the Watermark in 2016. This year, it will showcase the fantastic food scene of both the south Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. Events will include a welcome BBQ, a chowder smackdown between six chefs from B.C., Calgary and Nova Scotia, seminars, wine tours, a long table brunch and, of course, the Saturday evening gala, which features a series of short food films, each one inspiring a celebrity guest chef to create a course that complements it. Food and film will, of course, be paired with Similkameen wines.

Tickets are available for individual events, or you can purchase a weekend package for the whole festival, starting at $369 per person based on quadruple occupancy for two nights’ accommodation. Watermarkbeachresort.com

B.C. WINE FA C TS

Of the grapes planted in B.C., 51 per cent are red; 49 per cent white.

The most popular red varieties are: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah/Shiraz.

The most popular white ones are: Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürtztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc. —winebc.com

B. C .’ S B IGGE S T FOOD AND WINE MEET-UP

Do you like great food and wine as much as you like a bargain? Then you’d better make sure Chef Meets BC Grape is on your calendar. This multi-city event is the largest tasting of B.C. wine and food in Western Canada, celebrating all things grown, crushed, raised and produced in our province.

It kicks off April 26 at the JW Marriott Parq Vancouver with an event featuring more than 350 wines and gourmet fare from 18 restaurants, for a steal of a deal at $90. Then Calgary hosts the event on May 10 at Hotel Arts with a dozen restaurants and more than 125 wines ($75). Finally, it comes home to the Okanagan on June 23 when more than 350 wines will be poured and dishes from 12 restaurants sampled at See Ya Later Ranch ($115).

For info and tickets, visit winebc.com/wine-bc-events/chef-meets-bc-grape/. Note that funds raised from this event will go to support the BC Hospitality Foundation.

Phototype photo

BC Wine Institute photo

Clos du Soleil Winery

Keremeos, BC

Similkameen Valley Elegance

Wineshop open daily 10am to 5pm until October 31

2014 Rock Opera Pinotage

Full bodied and almost opaque in colour. Deep dark fruit flavours jump from the glass, wafting plum, vanilla spice, and brambleberry. Rich tannins and pleasant acidity round out the mid palate, leaving a long lingering finish.

Serve with steak, pulled pork, or BBQ. Also pairs well with dark chocolate.

OUR ROOTS RUN DEEP

Our roots run deep with half century old vines, rooted in the Golden Mile Bench’s exceptional terroir. is year we’re celebrating 50 years of our historic vineyard. Join us in the celebration!

It’s TIME

AFTER 50 VINT A GES, THE LEGEND A RY HARRY MCW A TTERS H A S A NE W ROLE A S PROPRIETOR OF THE OKANAGA N’S FIRST URB A N W INERY

Tim Pawsey

“

When we open the doors, I’ll be on the oor to greet guests and to do what I like best. And that is to sell wine!

Judging by all the activity at TIME Winery in downtown Penticton, it’s pretty obvious Harry McWatters isn’t planning to hang up his hat any time soon.

Finishing touches are being applied to the urban winery, which is expected to open sometime this spring. McWatters embarked on the project a couple of years ago, after he sold his Sundial Vineyard to what has become Phantom Creek Estate.

In April 2016, McWatters’ Encore Vineyards purchased the former PenMar Theatre complex, with plans to develop the Okanagan’s first urban winery. Two years later, in the year after he celebrated crushing his 50th vintage, the Okanagan wine pioneer’s dream is about to become reality.

A massive near-rebuilding project of the 12,000 square-foot structure (which housed a four-part multiplex cinema) has evolved into a fermentation cellar, a barrel cellar and storage, with the fourth cinema retained as an auditorium. Plans are to use it for seminars and other events.

“I really hope the (wine) industry will embrace it and use it as their downtown meeting place,” says the winery veteran.

Upstairs are Encore’s offices (for the TIME and Evolve brands) while downstairs the glassed-in main frontage is home to the tasting bar and dining area with garage doors opening onto a sidewalk patio.

McWatters contracted much-travelled and well-respected consultant chef Darren Brown to assist him in shaping the concept. However, even though he’s “really happy about the food,” McWatters is adamant: “I keep re-

minding everyone we’re a winery first and foremost. But in order for us to have as many bodies in the building as we can we have to have food service to do that.” And, he insists, TIME Winery & Kitchen’s creative small plates “will very much be in keeping with the brand.”

“We’re not looking to be a full-fledged restaurant. We are not trying to compete with people doing breakfast lunch and dinner. But you will be able to come in (on your own if you want) and have a very satisfying meal. And we’ll change things up pretty frequently,” says McWatters, who’s also quick to point out it was he who opened Canada’s very first winery restaurant when he launched Sumac Ridge in 1980.

“We had food service before the winery, because of the golf course,” he recalls. Then chuckles: “We’ve come a long way from those grilled cheese sandwiches.”

As for what it will bring to downtown Penticton, there’s no shortage of interest.

“I’m overwhelmed by the number of people that I run into virtually every day who say, ‘We can’t wait till you’re open.’ Amazingly, many are in the wine industry.”

And that’s precisely the idea.

“One of my goals was to make it a hub for the industry to use,” he says.

As for his own role, McWatters plans to be very much front and centre. He’s cut back on his travel and other commitments to make it happen, with plans to be there almost daily.

“My day will consist of getting up and going for a swim, getting to my desk early and getting whatever I need to get done finished,” he says. “When we open the doors, I’ll be on the floor to greet guests and to do what I like best. And that is to sell wine!”

McWatters says his daughter, Christa-Lee McWatters Bond (director of sales, marketing and hospitality), keeps him on his toes. “She says, ‘You need to be visible; some people think you’ve actually retired.’ I say: God forbid!”

Chris Stenberg photo

After an extensive remodel of the PenMar Theatre, TIME Winery is set to open this spring with a tasting room and bistro. An auditorium for seminars will come later. Chris Stenberg photo

Glorious grapes

When founder Vera Klokocka and her husband bought an old apricot orchard on the Naramata Bench back in 1979, her instincts told her that its gravelly, sun-soaked slope would be better suited for growing grapes. Her instincts were right.

By 1984, 3.6 acres of orchard gave way to noble grape varieties and Vera forged ahead. Her fortitude and pioneering spirit were instrumental in convincing the B.C. government to introduce a new policy permitting small growers to make and sell wine from their cellar door. Hillside was one of the first wineries granted this “farmgate” license. Not only did her efforts mark Hillside Winery’s beginnings, they would also shape its future.

Today, winemaker Kathy Malone is at the helm. When she arrived in 2008, her instincts (and 23 years of experience) also told her the Naramata Bench possessed a special quality. “Right away, I recognized there was something unique and compelling about the grapes grown on the Naramata

Bench. The vines planted here produce wines of great balance, complexity, juiciness and finesse.”

The geographic orientation and soil composition of the Naramata Bench, Malone explains, make it uniquely suited to growing a broad range of wine grape varieties while producing high-quality wine. Its proximity to the lake affords a moderating effect on temperatures, reducing threat from cold damage in winter and heat stress in summer, while the western aspect takes advantage of the last rays of afternoon sunshine, reflected off the lake, for full ripening power. “Conditions,” she says, “that allow Hillside to grow big reds in what would normally be considered too northerly a region.”

But it’s not just that: When she did comparison tastings of wines made from single-block Merlot grapes straddling Naramata Road, Malone found

AT H ILLSIDE, W INEMAKER KATHY M A LONE MAKES AWA RD- W INNING VINT A GES TH A T A RE PURE NA R AMA TA B ENCH

the wines shared a similar strand of “bright, plummy flavours” and a distinct note that she describes as “wet potter’s clay,” and yet each block tasted different from the other. “They were all beautifully structured wines but they were very different,” Malone says. “Now we understand that geologically the soil is very different above Naramata Road than the soils found below Naramata Road.”

Hillside president and owner Duncan McCowan, who is a geologist by trade, perhaps best tells the story of Naramata Bench’s geology. “Twelve thousand years ago, what the current Naramata Road is, was the old high-level water mark of Glacial Lake Penticton. So, above the road were gravels, granites and igneous rocks that were glaciated. And then below the road are the lake bottom (lacustrine) silts.

That is why along the Naramata Bench we have such unique variations of soils. We have perhaps some of the only vineyards worldwide that are planted on glacial till,” McCowan says.

Indeed, it’s a history so compelling that Hillside remains committed to producing all of its wine exclusively from Naramata Bench-grown grapes.

Malone hopes that the Naramata Bench may be the next sub-region to be officially recognized within the geographical indication (GI).

“Most of the wineries are on board, and the growers are very excited,” she says. “I think this particular step is key for establishing the validity of our region, as well as fostering interest in it.”

Vera, no doubt, would agree.

“

The Naramata Bench may be one of the only regions in the world where grapes grow on glacial till.

The sips of summer

Joanne Sasvari

Ican be snobby about wine with the best of them, obsessing about vintages and appellations and soil composition. Kimmeridgian limestone? Double-header trellising systems? Arcane Pinot Noir hybrids? Bring it and I’ll geek out about it.

But not in summer.

Summer is the season for patio sippers, for light, bright thirst quenchers you don’t need to think too much about. I won’t say no to a Premier Cru Chablis if you absolutely insist, but I’m almost as happy with a pitcher of fruity sangria, tinkling with ice cubes and clad in condensation that promises cool relief within.

The rest of the year I might disdain boring old Pinot Blanc, the vodka of wine, with its light body and almost nonexistent flavour. But when the mercury edges towards 30°C, its subtle citrus notes are just what I crave, preferably served under a leafy tree while someone else lights the barbecue. I might even splash some soda into it and throw caution to the wind by adding a bit of ice, though perhaps not if it’s the sophisticated versions produced by Blue Mountain and Clos de Soleil.

Then again, summer is the season of rosé. Around my house, we go through an awful lot of it between May and September. (We’re talking crisp, dry rosé here, not sickly sweet “blush” wines like White Zinfandel. One has to draw the line somewhere, even if one is swilling plonk.)

Some expressions of rosé, such as the ones from France’s Tavel region or Hester Creek’s juicy Cabernet Franc, are big and bold and can easily be enjoyed year round. In summer, though, I tend to reach for the palest, lightest, Provençal-style rosés, with their delicate salmon hues and wisps of red berry and lemon peel flavours, not to mention their budget-friendly price tags. Here in B.C., Quails’ Gate makes a rosé that could have been designed just for hot summer nights, with soft, thirst-quenching notes of rhubarb, strawberry and pink grapefruit.

In any case, bold or light, rosés are glorious food wines that handily pair with flavours both strong and subtle. That makes them perfect wines to sip while grazing on tapas and antipasto, which, as it turns out, is just how I like to dine in summer. Don’t you?

F RO M P A TIO PLONK TO PITCHERS OF S A NGRI A, HOT WEA THER MEA NS IT’S TI M E TO CHILL W HEN IT CO M ES TO W INE

In summer, I tend to reach for the palest, lightest, Provençalstyle rosés, with their delicate salmon hues and wisps of red berry and lemon peel avours.

Take a look at what people drink in hot-climate wine-producing regions. All that blistering sun in France, Spain and Italy produces powerhouse reds, but you won’t catch people in, say, Châteauneuf-du-Pape knocking back inky GSMs when the Sirocco turns the afternoon into a garrigue-scented oven. They’re drinking rosé. In Spain, it’s sangria and chilled fino sherry. In Italy, it’s Pinot Grigio, spritz and prosecco.

I remember my first trip to Italy, how at the end of the day, people would spill out into the streets for the passeggiata, a leisurely stroll before the evening meal, stopping to chat with friends over glasses of inexpensive prosecco. How civilized, I thought. How uncomplicated and refreshing.

And what a great idea to bring home to B.C., where frizzante-style bubbles are becoming more and more popular. Soft and fruity with a mouth-filling mousse, the tank-fermented wines from Evolve Cellars, 8th Generation and others are turning into some of our favourite summer sippers. No need to think about them; just pop the crown cap and enjoy.

Taking it easy. Making it simple. Isn’t that what summer is all about?

“

Take a look at what people drink in hot-climate wine-producing regions. They’re drinking rosé. In Spain, it’s sangria and chilled no sherry. In Italy, it’s Pinot Grigio, spritz and prosecco.

Sip, savour and stay awhile

The Similkameen Valley likes to operate under the radar. Actually, it doesn’t have much choice, being off the well-beaten wine-tourism track of the Okanagan Valley. It was even dubbed by enRoute magazine as “One of the top 5 wine regions you have never heard of.”

Still, an increasing number of visitors are making their way to the Similkameen, typically on a pilgrimage for rare, small- production wines that speak of the unique terroir in which they are grown.

This setup works well for producers committed to quality because they can focus on wines that reflect the terroir, the gravel and calcium-carbonate-rich soils that are producing grapes and wines that have people taking notice.

A region of hands-on producers, the Similkameen is building an enviable reputation for quality that is drawing attention from far and wide. New wineries are popping up and wineries outside the region have taken notice of the quality of grapes coming off Similkameen soils. Phantom Creek Estates, Road 13 Vineyards and Monte Creek Ranch have all recently purchased land in the Similkameen and prompted visits from their global superstar wine consultants, Alsatian Master of Wine Olivier Humbrecht and terroir specialist Pedro Parra. They seem impressed.

New faces have arrived, too. Howard Soon, longtime winemaker for Sandhill, has worked with Similkameen grapes for decades. It only took him two weeks after retiring from Sandhill before taking up the winemaking job with Vanessa Vineyard, a vineyard-opera-

Orofino Vineyards has for years been revered for its terroir-driven wines. Now it’s opened a handful of well-appointed guest suites, giving visitors a reason to stay and explore the Similkameen Valley a little longer.

tor-turned-winemaker in southern Cawston. Their grand tasting room opened last year and exciting Syrah and Bordeaux variety wines have been launched from their rockstrewn vineyard.

There are new owners at Eau Vivre winery. Stalwarts of the Similkameen, Orofino Vineyards, has a new grape-growing partner to make fresh, juicy Cabernet Franc. Clos du Soleil has established a new vineyard to grow Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grapes for their Capella and Estate Reserve White.

The Similkameen Wineries Association has rebranded as the Similkameen Independent Winegrowers, their new mantra to put local authenticity in every bottle. Twelve of the nearly 20 Similkameen wineries are members. They have banded together to spread the word of what makes the Similkameen special with events such as Devour! Osoyoos—The Food Film Festival, an event at Watermark Beach Resort complete with Similkameen master classes, culinary challenges and a gala event pairing food, Similkameen wine and film.

The wine tourism infrastructure is starting to blossom in the valley, too. So instead of the Similkameen being a quick stop on the way to or from the Okanagan, high-end guest suites now make it well worth a longer stay. There are now self-contained units where you can savour the local bounty at Orofino Vineyard Suites, the Studio Guest Homes at Farmersdotter and Klippers Organics Guest Suites.

Tasting-room renovations over the last year or two have seen impressive new wine shops pop up at Clos du Soleil and Corcelettes, as well as the opening of The Caves at Seven Stones Winery. The Caves hosts tours and winemaker dinners while Orofino celebrates the local bounty at its Farm Focus Dinner Series during the summer.

The Similkameen Valley is quickly becoming a destination in itself. While the wines have been gaining interest and acclaim from international critics and consumers alike, the infrastructure to make wine tourists want not just to visit but to stay is finally starting to take shape.

The Similkameen Valley is indeed quickly becoming the place to be heard of.

Instead of the Similkameen being a quick stop on the way to or from the Okanagan, high-end guest suites now make it well worth a longer stay.

ABOVE: The Caves at Seven Stones Winery offer new experiences for guests, from tours to winemakers’ dinners.

LEFT: Hugging Tree is one of several new wineries making sun-drenched wines from the Similkameen Valley’s rocky soil and sun-soaked terroir.

Similkameen Independent Winegrowers Association photos

Similkameen Independent Winegrowers Association photo

Pairing perfection

When it opened its doors in summer 2014, Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar was Vancouver’s most anticipated new restaurant of the season, the year, possibly the decade thus far. Following a half-year, multi-million-dollar renovation of its predecessor, Fleuri, Boulevard revealed itself to be among the most luxuriously appointed (and, given its 200-plus seats, largest) dining rooms in the city.

Of course, these factors would count for nothing if its food and beverage offerings weren’t the primary attraction. Fortunately, the kitchen was—and continues to be—helmed by executive chef Alex Chen (2018’s Canadian Culinary Championships’ gold medalist), recently promoted to executive chef – signature restaurants for the Sutton Place Hotels’ Luxury Brand and chef de cuisine, now executive chef, Roger Ma, both of whom brought to Boulevard years of achievement in acclaimed restaurants spanning from Toronto to Beverly Hills.

Despite its location in the Sutton Place Hotel—at the nexus of Vancouver’s urban centre, Burrard and Robson streets—it was key to Chen and Ma that Boulevard not be a “hotel restaurant,” but a great restaurant that happens to be in a hotel, appealing equally to visitors from around the globe and local guests who are attuned to the unique cultural eclecticism of Vancouver dining. The duo’s menus deftly walk the tightrope between broad appeal and a deeply personal culinary vision that draws influence from the West Coast, Asia, classic French bistro fare, the American steakhouse tradition, and more. Meanwhile, Boulevard’s titular oyster bar is a model of sumptuous simplicity, plating impeccably sourced raw seafood that requires only the sparest of embellishments to taste its best.

JP Potters, Boulevard’s executive general manager and sommelier, says of the dining experience he and his colleagues aim to deliver: “If it’s just good, you’re not

“If it’s just good, you’re not winning,” says

JP Potters,

Boulevard’s

executive general manager and sommelier.

winning. It’s got to be so overwhelmingly positive that when people think about where they want to go next time, why would they go somewhere else when what we do is so compelling? The kitchen delivers that on the plate, for sure.”

Potters collaborates daily with kitchen, bar and service staff to ensure standards are consistent, and to match Boulevard’s menus with complementary pairings from its cellar of more than 500 labels. This is especially important when Chen or Ma composes a new dish, which happens often in response to seasonality, new ingredients, or, quite simply, the chefs’ restless creativity.

“It’s up to us as chefs to communicate what we’re trying to achieve with a specific dish,” says Ma, “and then it’s up to the sommelier or bartender to say, ‘I can see it working with this wine or this cocktail.’ But maybe we’ve first got to dial back the dish’s acidity or add some sweetness. I think it’s a powerful thing when great minds work together to dissect a dish and find maybe one or two little things that can really elevate it, whether it’s a little more or less seasoning, a touch of lemon, or a hint of this spice.”

“We taste wine every day with the staff, to flex that muscle with them and get them in the habit of pairing,” adds Potters. “Different guests want different things, but

we try to have something we know works well, and that affects how we choose the wines by the glass. We want the staff to be able to talk about the food and the wine in an informed but easy way.”

“We really want our guests to be able to have that experience where they’re enjoying our food with a beautiful glass of wine or a well-made cocktail,” says Ma. “We’ve always got that at the back of our minds.”

“

If it’s just good, you’re not winning. It’s got to be so overwhelmingly positive that when people think about where they want to go next time, why would they go somewhere else?

Boulevard executive chef Roger Ma balances the flavours of his dishes with the wines they are best paired with.

Going global

D ISCOVER THESE FOUR SURPRISING INTERN A TION A L GR A PES GRO W ING IN OUR O W N B A CKY A RD

Treve Ring

Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer. Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon.

The top white and red grapes grown in British Columbia are familiar names. These classics are established and respected the world over, so it’s not surprising that they were among the first selected to plant in our relatively young wine region.

That youthful, adventuresome spirit is to our advantage. We don’t have the restrictive appellation laws governing varieties that most wine regions do. We are free to plant and produce what we want. It’s fitting for our colourful Canadian melting pot of cultures to have a mosaic of wine grapes plotted across the province; already, more than 60 different wine grapes are grown across B.C., with more being trialled every year.

Here are four surprising global grapes that have shown promise in B.C., along with an example worth seeking out.

GRÜNER VELTLINER

Austria’s groovy white grape is appreciated the world over, though GrüVe’s charm is relatively unknown locally. Is it the umlaut that throws folks off? The pronunciation? (Is it GROO-ner Velt-LEEN-er or GREE-ner VEHLT-ly-ner?) This crisp, herbal, lemon-oilslicked and white-pepper-scented grape is alluring in youth, though with a few years’ maturity the zestiness transforms into a honeyed, stony and profound wine, akin to fine Chenin Blanc or Sémillon. Amazingly food-friendly, GV shines as a partner for tricky foods such as artichokes, asparagus and arugula.

CULMINA FAMILY ESTATE WINERY

2016 UNICUS (Golden Mile Bench, $27)

You’ll be forgiven for thinking you’re nosing a Sauvignon Blanc, with heaps of meadow grass, bright grapefruit, Asian pear, white peach and lemon peel on this shining Grüner Veltliner. On the higher-elevation Margaret’s Bench vineyard, the grape gains freshness and acidity, while absorbing the warm Oliver sunshine. A split between concrete amphora, concrete egg and stainless steel ups the complexities and provides a textural background to streamlined fruit.

ALBARIÑO

One of northern Spain’s most prolific white grapes, Albariño makes up the majority of plantings in Rias Baixas, as well as across the Minho River into Portugal’s Vinho Verde, where it is known as Alvarinho. This low-yielding, mineral-lined grape makes wines with white flowers, peaches, apricots and almonds. It can be vinified light and sprightly, with refreshing acidity and bounce, or left to hang and build ample flesh and alcohol. As you might expect from its Iberian location, the wine is perfectly suited to pairing with seafood.

TERRAVISTA VINEYARDS

2016 ALBARIÑO (Naramata, $25)

The third vintage of this Naramata Bench-dominant Albariño is 70 per cent grown on Terravista’s home Lone Hand Ranch Vineyard, with the remainder coming off the Gravelbourg Vineyard on the Black Sage Bench. The nose is an enticing, potent mix of anise, nectarine, tangerine and apricot that remains fresh throughout its full, off-dry, glycerol-slicked palate. A flush of ginger spice permeates the finish that remains bright, suggesting glass after glass.

SPAIN

Vigo

PINOTAGE

Pinotage is uniquely South African, born in 1925 via a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. Like its parent Cinsaut, Pinotage is hardy and vigorous, early ripening, and with high tannins and sugar levels. Though styles vary greatly, the grape commonly shows a deep ruby to crimson hue and aromas of mulberry, plum, black cherry, bramble, damson, prune, and sweet spice and clove. The beauty of the grape (remember: chameleon-like Pinot Noir is its other parent) is that it can produce light and easy wines, like youthful Beaujolais, or it can go ripe and wood spiced, like Zinfandel.

SOUTH AFRICA

THE VIEW WINERY

2015 PINOTAGE RESERVE

(Kelowna, $26)

Ripe and rich, with lightly toasted oak propping up brambled, spiced dark berries, plums and cherries. There’s a wave of espresso and peppercorns that seasons this fleshy, handsome red. The View are Pinotage specialists in B.C., making it into white, rosé and red, as well as using it in their Distraction Frizzante.

MALBEC

Though the black, densely flavoured grape is native to the southwest of France (it is one of the six players in the Bordeaux blend), it has fallen steeply in plantings and popularity in France, holding steadfast mainly in the savoury and tannic wines of Cahors. Malbec’s superstardom has come from Argentina, where it has found a welcome home tucked against the sunbaked, elevated Andes Mountains. Typically full bodied, wines show intense blueberry and black plum, backed up by cocoa, smoke and spice, all laid out across a velvety texture.

Buenos Aires

ARGENTINA

PAINTED ROCK ESTATE WINERY

2015 MALBEC

(Skaha Bench, $43)

Violets and wild blackberry flood this fleshy palate, scented with blueberry and clad with finely grippy tannins. The wood (18 months in French oak, 30 per cent of which was new) is handily absorbed by the fruit density, leaving structure and an alluring spiciness on the finish. Malbec can easily absorb the 15.2 per cent alcohol that the Okanagan can easily produce, as this age-worthy wine attests.

Cape Town

Natural selection

E VERYONE’S T A LKING A BOUT W INES TH A T “SPE A K FOR THE L AND.” B UT DO N A TUR A L W INES A CTU A LLY T A STE GOOD?

Charlene Rooke

“We don’t make natural wine. What we’re trying to do is make natural wine.” This paradox comes from Matt Sherlock, half of Lock & Worth winery (with Nichol Vineyard’s Ross Hackworth), founder of importer Sedimentary Wines and director of the award-winning wine list at Burdock & Co., three pillars of B.C.’s natural-wine scene.

When a pioneer like Sherlock shies away from the term, you know it’s loaded, with no universal definition. “It’s controversial,” he admits.

The natural movement was a reaction against post-Second World War industrialized agriculture, when it became common practice to use pesticides and irrigation in vineyards, commercial fermentation yeasts and flavour-extraction techniques to increase yield, and additives such as powdered tannins or red-wine colorant Mega Purple in winemaking.

In response, Sherlock says, some winemakers reverted to methods that “let the wine speak for the land,” believing that a gentle touch reveals terroir. “It’s drinking a grape that has been fermented. You’re tasting the land. You’re not tasting the hand of man, which is so boring,” he says. He compares highly manipulated wine to an e e cummings poem with its punctuation and capitalization “fixed” by an editor.

Along with Sherlock and Hackworth, more than a dozen B.C. winemakers are exploring signature practices of the natural-wine movement, from using clay amphorae or concrete vessels for wild-yeast fermentation to forgoing filtration, adjusting acid or sugar levels and minimizing sulphites used for preservation. Often made in small quantities and subject to growing conditions, these wines can be challenging to find—and sometimes challenging to love.

The Main Street restaurant Burdock & Co is a pioneer in the natural wine movement, and still one of the best places in Vancouver to enjoy a glass. Leila Kwok photo.

Globally, there’s a huge quality spectrum for natural wine, which causes some wine makers and lovers to disdain it. There can be a fine line between natural and flawed, with the barnyard smell of yeasts or microbes, the cidery whiff of volatile acidity or the nutty smell of oxidation sometimes passing as “natural.”

“One of the beauties of natural wine is the occasional wildness,” says New Yorkbased author Alice Feiring, a longtime natural-wine advocate and writer of the subscription-only The Feiring Line newsletter. “But there is one flaw that I have an intolerance for and that’s ‘mouse taint’ (goût de souris).”

Don’t let a server convince you these are acquired tastes.

Natural white-grape wines are sometimes amber or orange and hazy, with tannins that might recall black tea and a nose of dried fruits and flowers that rivals the most aromatic Sauternes or Rieslings for unusual notes. (They shouldn’t smell, as Grapes and Soda’s Kieran Fanning memorably told Vancouver, like “a horse with fresh nail polish.”) Reds can look dull and opaque but taste bright, bursting with berry fruit and sour-cherry acidity. Drinking natural wine can resemble the aha-moment taste of free-range chicken or grass-fed beef: So that’s what fermented grapes really taste like! At its best, “It should be nothing but delicious,” says Sherlock.

Few B.C. wines self-identify as “natural.” Wine shops often obscure them in “organic” sections (tricky, because some organic or biodynamic wineries can have chemical additives). This is still an insider-y movement that requires consumers to be well-informed (see sidebar) about what they’re drinking—whatever we call it. As one Piedmont winemaker told Sherlock, “We want to leave the land in a better place than we found it.” In the end, that might be the best definition for “natural.”

Sedimentary Wines uses the term “real wine.” “The wine is made in the vineyard,” say natural-wine advocates. Terms like living, grower or terroir wine can be problematic. (What winery is not trying to make terroir-driven wine? As writer Jon Bonné quipped in Punch: “You’d never hear a serious fromager tell you that ‘The cheese is made in the cow.’ ”)

At the Truth in Terroir seminar on organically grown, low-intervention global wines at the 2018 Vancouver International Wine Festival, renowned Haywire and Narrative winemaker Matt Dumayne was asked what he’d like to see more of in the Okanagan. Although he and Okanagan Crush Pad’s consulting winemaker Alberto Antonini do not support the use of any herbicides or pesticides in their own lively, terroir-driven wines, what he didn’t say was, “More natural wine.” He said: “More people (making) site-specific wines.”

While some retailers and restaurants still shy away from a product that can be volatile in the bottle and change from vintage to vintage, “to ignore this category means to lose customers,” says Feiring, based on her international experience with these wines. “It will hold back the store and restaurant, but not the movement— which I believe will change the way we view fine wine.”

(YOU MAKE ME F EEL L IKE A) N ATU R AL W INE

Curious about natural wines? Start right here.

FIVE BC NATU R AL WINES TO T RY 40 Knots 2016 L’Orange (Comox, $36.90): Spicy, zesty, dry, crisp.

Bella 2015 Méthode Ancestrale Rosé (Kelowna, $40): All-natural bubbles, yeasty, wild, berry.

Haywire 2015 Free Form Red (Summerland, $39.90): Deep, dark, rich black fruits.

Little Farm 2016 Pied de Cuve Riesling (Cawston, $26): Bone dry, lime, bracing minerality.

Narrative 2015 Ancient Method (Oliver, $39.90): Earthy, floral, raw, complex.

—Vitis Staff

W HE R E TO SA MPLE THE M

Vancouver

Restaurants: AnnaLena, The Arbor, The Birds & The Beets (Juice Bar weekly pop-up), Bows X Arrows, Burdock & Co., Grapes & Soda, Hawksworth, L’Abbatoir, Nightingale, Royal Dinette, Upstairs at Campagnolo. Retail: Kitsilano Wine Cellar, Legacy Liquor Store, Liberty Wine Merchants, Village Liquor Store (West Vancouver)

Victoria/Island

Restaurants: Agrius, Be Love, Olo, Wild Mountain Food & Drink (Sooke). Retail: Vessel Liquor Store

Kelowna

Restaurants: Waterfront Wines

For more information, check RawWine.com and watch for the Raisin natural-wine app to become available in Canada.

One of the beauties of natural wine is the occasional wildness.

LEFT: Egg-shaped concrete fermentation tanks at Okanagan Crush Pad offer the virtues of oak and stainless steel, without the drawbacks of either.

RIGHT: Back to the future: At Okanagan Crush Pad, natural wines are also fermented in historic-looking amphorae. Lionel Trudel photos

Our organic

There are few vineyards where you will find wild flowers, beneficial grasses and weeds growing under the vines. This is life at Sage Hills Vineyards and it exemplifies our organic commitment to our vines and the environment.

Every day, in every way possible, our family is committed to growing our grapes organically. From the moment our vines went into the ground in 2007, we have held firm our resolve and dedication to organic agriculture. It isn’t the easiest way to grow grapes. We certainly don’t get conventional yields from our vines, but what we do get is unprecedented quality and flavour. The endless extra hours of weed pulling, cropping down and hand harvesting our grapes is far beyond that of a conventional vineyard— but we’re good with that!

We’re good with it because the proof is now in the flavours of our 100% varietal wines. See the difference. Taste the difference.

Red, white and true

No longer an afterthought, restaurant wine lists have become a crucial aspect of the dining experience. They needn’t be tomes, or scholarly; they do need to be engaging and thoughtfully curated.

For wine lovers, a good list can make or break a guest experience.

The list, however, is just a start. Equally essential are service, glassware and enthusiastic knowledge concerning the finer details of wine, not to mention food-pairing capabilities.

Managing these principles is no easy task; it takes a top-notch palate, humility and years of accumulated experience. So who better to enlighten us than some of Vancouver’s best wine-list architects?

The following three purveyors of good taste are respected sommeliers. All are recipients of a gold or platinum plaque handed out during the 2018 Vancouver International Wine Festival’s Wine Program Excellence Awards. Their talents include: sabering savvy, exceptional aptitude for swirling, a dogmatic focus to tasting, and precision spitting techniques.

We asked these stewards of the corkscrews what really does go into creating a great wine list. They were more than happy to share their wisdom.

R OGER M A NI WA

Sommelier at Mak N Ming

“What I try to focus on are wines chosen for drinkability, the restaurant’s style, and balance—so there is something for any palate and price.

But the wine program is just one piece of the puzzle.

If there were a secret, it would be the need for someone (or a team) on the floor, specializing in providing proper wine service that is tailored to a guest’s needs. The greatest restaurants in the world have the greatest wine standards—I strive to get closer to that level of professionalism.

That [service] includes being flexible—how you treat a product. Whether it is best to decant or not, choosing the appropriate shape of glass to accentuate the aromas, serving temperature, and keeping in mind respect for the people who make it. There is a lot of work put into growing grapes; I try to never forget that, and do what I can with the resources available to me to show the wine at its best.

“

There is a lot of work put into growing grapes; I try to never forget that, and do what I can with the resources available to me to show the wine at its best.

TOP: At Mak N Ming, sommelier Roger Maniwa pairs the signature pork cheek dish with the Haywire Free Form 2016. The wine is a fruity but austere Sauvignon Blanc whose tropical fruit notes contrast with the unctuous pork braseid in sake kasu and bacon jus, as well as the the cauliflower “risotto” accompaniment.

RIGHT: Roger Maniwa, sommelier at Mak N Ming, samples a vintage from his well-edited wine selection. Contributed photo

BOTTOM: Champagne is a natural partner for Blue Water Café’s caviar service. Here Mulholland pairs Northern Divine caviar with Jean Milan “Synphorine” 2009 Grand Cru Blancs de Blancs.

WILLIAM MULHOLL AND Wine Director at Blue Water Café + Raw Bar

“There isn't really a secret to building a great wine list. It is a combination of variables, and true skill is how you manage them all correctly.

Know the food you are serving and select wines to complement and enhance the dishes.

Have a great knowledge of wines and where they come from; the more understanding you have of the wines, the better you can make decisions about how they fit.

Think to the future. Many wines are purchased before they are ready to drink, so you must purchase them with the intent of having them for a while, and forecast when you will release them, what other wines may be on your list at that time, and when you will need to replenish your stock. Buy sections at a time, not one listing at a time.

Create a list that will appeal to your clientele and attract a market mix that fits with your restaurant. Be organized; there is no point in having great wines if you can't find them, if the vintage is incorrect, or you don't know when to replace them.

Being a sommelier is not just about sharing your wine knowledge with guests. It’s a lot of behind-the-scenes work, like spreadsheets, calculating price and value, attending meetings with wine agents, and keeping up to the ever-changing world of wine.

The more understanding you have of the wines, the better you can make decisions about how they t.

LEFT: At Blue Water Café + Raw Bar, wine director William Mulholland can select from a vast selection of fine vintages from B.C. and around the world.

L IS A HALEY

Restaurant Director and Sommelier at L’Abattoir and Coquille Fine Seafood

“The secret: always have a plan.

I know how I want the list to look and feel. I revisit my plan every few months to make sure I'm still on track. I keep an outline of what sorts of wines I want on each list and then hunt relentlessly to find the best wines to fill those spots. Those wines make up the backbone of the list, and then I leave some room to play with additional wines. These flesh out the list and are the new things we get excited about every week.

Additionally, we have some hand-sells available. Some are wines that are waiting in the wings for their turn on the menu; others are bin-ends. We don't keep a list of these for guests, but we do have them listed for the sommeliers.”

“ The secret: always have a plan.

TOP: Restaurant director and sommelier Lisa Haley finds she has to fine-tune the wine selection for guests at the two restaurants. At L’Abattoir, she serves mostly big reds, while at Coquille Fine Seafood, it’s lighter whites that pair well with the mainly seafood menu.

RIGHT: At Coquille, Haley pairs the bright, flavourful mackerel crudo with the bespoke house white wine produced by Lock & Worth, the equally lively Coquille Semillion 2016 from the Okanagan Valley.

The wine country champions

T HREE CULIN A RY VISION A RIES A RE COOKING UP SO M ETHING DELICIOUS IN THE OKANAGA N VA LLEY

Joanne Sasvari David McIlvride

Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ specializes in Italian-inspired dishes based on local ingredients.

Three amigos. Three musketeers. Three’s a charm. Wishes come in threes, as do all good things, it seems, including the trio we can credit for creating BC’s wine country cuisine.

Rodney Butters, Bernard Casavant and Audrey Surrao are culinary legends in B.C. After putting Tofino on the foodie map at the Wickaninnish Inn, chef Butters and front-of-house pro Surrao opened Kelowna’s groundbreaking Fresco back in 2001, later rebranding it as RauDZ Regional Table. Meanwhile, after proving that Whistler really could be a gourmet destination, chef Casavant arrived in Oliver in 2006 to introduce the south Okanagan to terroir-inspired cuisine at Burrowing Owl’s Sonora Room.

Now for the first time, they’ve teamed up to take wine country to the next delicious level. Casavant recently joined RauDZ Creative Concepts in the newly created position of director of operations, responsible for, among other things, recruiting and mentoring a team of topnotch food and drink professionals. It was a move that was decades in the making.

“Thirty years,” Casavant says with a laugh. “Our friendship goes back that far.”

RCC’s growing collection of Okanagan eateries includes the original RauDZ, the small-plates-focused micro bar & bites, and the new Sunnys—a modern diner, all in Kelowna, and, as of last year, Terrafina at Hester Creek

O LD V INES, NEW VISION

This year, Hester Creek Estate Winery celebrates 50 years of growing grapes—and helping change the history of B.C.’s wine industry.

In 1968, the overwhelming majority of the province’s 2,232 acres of vines were planted with hybrids and vitis labrusca for just a handful of wineries. Then an Italian immigrant named Joe Busnardo planted some 80 classic European vinifera grapes on this sunny property on the Golden Mile bench. He proved that B.C. could produce grapes to compete with the best in the world. A half-century later, that handful of wineries has grown to 358, of which 274 are grape wineries, and Busnardo’s Pinot Blanc, Trebbiano, Merlot and Cabernet Franc continue to thrive.

Throughout the year, the winery is holding a number of events to celebrate, including dinners and tastings of old vines wines. For the full list of events, visit hestercreek.com/50th.

Winery near Oliver, the first winery restaurant in their company’s portfolio.

All this culinary choice is a far cry from when they landed in the Okanagan in the early 2000s. Back then, there was no farm-to-table scene, no winery restaurants, no fine dining to speak of. “It was pretty much a no man’s land 17 years ago,” Butters says. He credits the arrival of a number of talented culinary professionals for changing the scene; Casavant adds that the relationships they forged with local producers also made a huge difference.

“With Rod and Audrey opening Fresco and not just talking about local, but meaning it, it gave the farmers and producers a reason to stay here and not just send everything to the bigger centres,” he says. “Now the clients are expecting it. The wineries have come a long way in the last 10 years, and so have the restaurants.”

So, now what? If what they’re doing at Terrafina is any indication, things are about to get even more delicious in the Okanagan.

The wineries have come a long way in the last 10 years, and so have the restaurants.

When chef Rodney Butters and partner Audrey Surrao opened Fresco in Kelowna in 2001, it was the first step toward revolutionizing the region’s cuisine.

“At Terrafina, the changes were small, but significant,” says Surrao. “From a culinary perspective, that’s just how Rod does things.”

Chef de cuisine Jenna Pillon will continue to run the kitchen, but it’s a completely updated one. The Italian-inspired menu has expanded to include build-yourown charcuterie boards as well as more of the flavourful, local-ingredient-driven dishes Butters has long been known for: wild boar meatballs, a cauliflower soup made seductive with saffron, gnocchi lavished with fragrant herb pesto. They’ve added beer, cocktails and an expanded wine list that includes high-end Italian labels as well as the entire Hester Creek portfolio.

And they’re not done yet. Casavant is focusing on “deepening a relationship that’s so multifaceted with local wineries, local purveyors and full-time year-round staff,” he says. For his part, Butters says, “I’d like to see a signature hotel for sure, a Relais & Châteaux or five-diamond place. There’s no Wickaninnish Inn or Four Seasons. We’ve got the wineries, we’ve got the restaurants, we need the accommodation now.”

Most important of all, is changing people’s mindset about the Okanagan Valley being a seasonal destination, especially in the south. “It needs to change,” Butters says. With these three visionaries leading the way, it surely will.

CAULIFLOWE R AND S AFF RON

W EDDING S OU P

This recipe from The Okanagan Table by Rod Butters (Figure 1 Publishing) is typical of the flavourful farm-to-table fare the chef champions at Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ. He recommends serving it with Hester Creek’s crisp, lightly floral Trebbiano or buttery, toasty Chardonnay.

Serves 4

2 Tbsp olive oil

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 cup chopped leeks (about 1 small)

Generous pinch of saffron

3 cups chopped cauliflower (about 1 small head)

3 cups vegetable stock

1 cup whipping (35%) cream

1 cup chopped Parmigiano-Reggiano rinds (or shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano)

Sea salt and coarsely ground black pepper

Croutons, to serve (optional)

Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

In a medium pot over medium heat, heat the oil and butter until melted. Add the garlic and leeks and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until tender but without colour. (Reduce heat if it’s too hot.)

Add the saffron and cauliflower and stir, then cover and cook for 4 to 6 minutes until the cauliflower is slightly tender.

Add the stock, whipping cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir, then cover and cook on a low simmer for 25 to 30 minutes.

Transfer the mixture, in batches, to a blender, and blend until very smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Ladle the soup into bowls, add croutons, if using, and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

Chef Bernard Casvant, one of the architects of B.C.’s wine country cuisine, has just joined forces with fellow chef Rodney Butters to take it to the next level.

Rod Butters’ Cauliflower and Saffron Wedding Soup, from The Okanagan Table (Figure 1 Publishing).

Vancouver Island

From the Saanich Peninsula to Comox, the Island has several pockets of microclimates that are ideal for growing grapes, especial cooler climate varietals such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The wineries are mostly smaller, family-owned properties located in seductively beautiful landscapes and surrounded by lush farms. The Island also boasts a number of food festivals, which pair especially well with the local vintages.

Alberni VA lley

Emerald Coast Vineyards

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Madeline Angevine, Marechal Foch emeraldcoastvineyards.ca

Courten Ay/ Comox

40 Knots Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Siegerrebe, Gamay, Zweigelt, Schonburger, Auxerrois 40knotswinery.com

Beaufort Vineyard & Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schonburger, Leon Millot beaufortwines.ca

Blue Moon Estate

Winery & Cider Worx

Riesling, Syrah bluemoonwinery.ca

Coastal Black Estate Winery

Fruit Wines, Honey Wines coastalblack.ca

Stones Throw Vineyard And Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Siegerrebe www.stonesthrowwinery.ca/

C owi C h A n VA lley

Alderlea Vineyards

Merlot alderlea.com

Averill Creek Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Marechal Foch averillcreek.ca

Blue Grouse Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Gamay Noir bluegrouse.ca

Cherry Point Estate Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Pinot Blanc, Agria, Zweigelt cherrypointestatewines.com

Damali Lavender Winery And B&B

Riesling, Merlot, Dolce Mora damali.ca

Deol Estate Winery Merlot

deolestatewinery.com

Divino Estate Winery

Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Castel, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio divinowine.ca

Emandare Vineyard And Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe emandarevineyard.com

Enrico Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Chardonnay, Petit Milo, Cabernet Libre enricowinery.com

Glenterra Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris glenterravineyards.com

Merridale Cidery, Distillery & Bistro Fruit Wines www.merridale.ca

Rocky Creek Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Foch, Marechal Foch, Tempranillo rockycreekwinery.ca

Silverside Farm & Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah silversidefarm.com

Unsworth Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignette unsworthvineyards.com

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Sparkling Wine, Dessert Wine venturischulze.com

Zanatta Winery

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Pinot Grigio zanatta.ca

nA n A imo

Chateau Wolff Estates

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Bacchus chateauwolff.com

Millstone Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe millstonewinery.ca

PA rks V ille

Mooberry Winery & Little Qualicum

Cheeseworks

Fruit Wines

mooberrywinery.com

Blue Grouse Estate Winery is nestled in the bucolic Cowichan Valley. Derek Ford photo

sAA ni C h

Peninsul A

Church & State Wines (Victoria)

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

De Vine Vineyards & Spirits

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Pinot Blanc, Foch devinevineyards.ca

Domaine Rochette Winery

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Rosé, Marechal Foch, Schonburger domainerochette.com

Dragonfly Hill Vineyard

Merlot

dragonflyhillvineyard.com

Symphony Vineyard

Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Foch symphonyvineyard.com

Gulf Islands

The Roost Farm Centre & Highland House Farm Winery

Siegerrebe, Fruit Wines roostfarmcentre.com

The Gulf Islands, which dot the Strait of Georgia that separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, are B.C.’s newest geographical Indication (GI). Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra, Hornby, Denman and Thetis islands boast a laidback lifestyle and a warm, oceanic climate ideal for the increasing number of wineries producing cool-climate wines.

Pen D er i sl A n D

Sea Star Estate Farm And Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Ortega seastarvineyards.ca

QuAD r A i sl A n D

Southend Farm & Vineyards

Merlot southend.ca

sA lt sP ring i sl A n D

Salt Spring Vineyards

Winery

Pinot Gris, Foch, Fruit Wines saltspringvineyards.com

t hetis i sl A n D

Domaine Jasmin Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris domainejasmin.com

Denm A n

i sl A n D

Corlan Vineyard & Farm

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch

corlanvineyard.wordpress. com

h ornby i sl A n D

Hornby Island Estate Winery

Fruit Wine hornbywine.com

Middle Mountain Mead Honey Wines middlemountainmead.com

Garry Oaks Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Zweigelt garryoakswinery.com

Mistaken Identity Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc mivwine.ca

Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards. Sea Star Estate Farm and Vineyards photo

Fraser Valley

It comes as something of a surprise to many people that there are 40 wineries right on the doorstep of B.C.’s biggest city—including a handful right in Vancouver itself. Wineries in Surrey, Richmond, New Westminster, Delta, Langley, Aldergrove and Abbotsford produce wine from everything from rice to berries to vitis vinifera. Most are small, family-owned properties and several boast additional attractions such as farm tours or bistros.

lA ngley/ Al D ergroV e

Backyard Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio backyardvineyards.ca

Chaberton Estate Winery

Ortega, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Gamay Noir, Reichensteiner, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner, Schonburger chabertonwinery.com

Abbotsfor D

Blackwood Lane

Vineyards & Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Siegerrebe blackwoodlanewinery.com

Campbell’s Gold

Honey Farm & Meadery Honey Wines, Pyment, Mead, Metheglin bchoney.com

Ripples Winery

Fruit Wines rippleswinery.com

St. Urban Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay sturbanwinery.com

Singletree Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe singletreewinery.com

Maan Farms Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Fruit Wines maanfarms.com

Mt. Lehman Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc mtlehmanwinery.ca

Seaside Pearl Farmgate Winery

Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio, Sparkling Wine seasidepearlwinery.ca/

DeltA

Angel Estate Winery

Fruit Wines angelestatewinery.com

Wellbrook Winery Fruit Wines wellbrookwinery.com

Dew D ney

Kermode Wild Berry

Winery

Fruit Wines kermodewildberry.com

Festina Lente Estate Winery (Meadery)

Honey Wines festinalente.ca

Glass House Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Icewine glasshouseestatewinery.com/

Krause Berry Farms & Estate Winery

Fruit Wines, Sparkling Wine, Dessert Wines krauseberryfarms.com

The Fort Langley Wine Co.

Fruit Wines thefortwineco.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Langley)

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay township7.com

Vista D’oro Farms & Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Fortified Walnut Wine vistadoro.com

n ew w estminster

Pacific Breeze Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc pacificbreezewinery.com

Pitt m e AD ows

Blue Heron Fruit Winery

Fruit Wines, Dessert Wines blueheronwinery.ca

r i C hmon D

Canada Berries Fruit Wines canadablueberries.com

Golden Age Meadery Honey Wines goldenagemead.net

Lulu Island Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Fruit Wines, Icewine luluislandwinery.com

Richmond Country Farms & Vines Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Rosé countryfarms.ca/countryvines-winery

YK3 Sake Producer Sake yk3sake.com

s urrey

1st R.O.W. Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay 1row.ca

Abbotsford’s Singletree Winery. Justine Russo photo

SR Winery & Distillery

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon yelp.ca/biz/seoul-ricewinelangley

Vinoscenti Vineyards

Rosé

vinoscentivineyards.ca

VA n C ou V er

Artisan SakeMaker @ Granville Island

Junmai Sake, SakeKasu artisansakemaker.com

City Side Winery

Merlot, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier citysidewinery.com/

Okanagan

Vancouver Urban Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc vancouverurbanwinery.com

When most people think B.C. wine, they think of the Okanagan Valley, which produces 84 per cent of the province’s wine. This is one of the most varied wine regions in the world, stretching from cool-climate Lake Country in the north to the blistering-hot desert around Osoyoos in the south. Everything from ice wine to big, tannic, fruit-driven reds is produced at wineries that range from small family-run boutique vineyards to big global players, many of them boasting fine restaurants, guesthouses and cultural events.

kA le D en

Kraze Legz Vineyard & Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc krazelegz.com

Top Shelf Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay topshelfwine.ca

g ol D en m ile b en C h

C.C. Jentsch Cellars

Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Petit Verdot ccjentschcellars.com

Checkmate Artisanal Winery

Merlot, Chardonnay www.checkmatewinery.com

Culmina Family Estate Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner culmina.ca

Fairview Cellars

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc fairviewcellars.ca

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Schonburger, Auxerrois gehringerwines.ca

Hester Creek Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc hestercreek.com

Road 13 Vineyards

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Malbec, Roussanne, Mourvedre, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc, Petit Verdot road13vineyards.com

Rust Wine Co.

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Rosé, Pinot Grigio www.rustwine.com

Tinhorn Creek Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay tinhorn.com

k elown A Ancient Hill Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Rosé, Baco Noir ancienthillwinery.com

Calona Vineyards (Wayne Gretzky Okanagan, Conviction, Peller)

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay calonavineyards.ca

Camelot Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio camelotvineyards.ca

Throughout the summer months, Mission Hill Family Estate hosts live concerts in its outdoor amphitheatre with a view over Okanagan Lake. Mission Hills Family Estate photo

CedarCreek Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Icewine cedarcreek.bc.ca

Frequency Wine & Sound

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Zweigelt frequencywinery.ca

House Of Rose Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay houseofrose.ca

Kitsch Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay kitschwines.ca

Martin's Lane Winery Pinot Noir, Riesling martinlanewinery.com/

Meadow Vista Honey Wines

Fruit Wines, Honey Wines meadowvista.ca

Nagging Doubt Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay naggingdoubt.com

Okanagan Villa Estate Winery Sparkling Wine www.okanaganvilla.com/

Sandhill

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Barbera sandhillwines.ca

Scenic Road Cider Company Cider scenicroadcider.com

Scorched Earth Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Rosé scorchedearthwinery.ca

Sperling Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay, Bacchus, Icewine sperlingvineyards.com

SpearHead Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay spearheadwinery.com

St. Hubertus & Oak Bay Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, Icewine st-hubertus.bc.ca

Summerhill Pyramid Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Icewine, Sparkling Wine summerhill.bc.ca

Tantalus Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Rosé, Chardonnay, Icewine tantalus.ca

The Vibrant Vine Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Pinot Grigio, Icewine, Muscat thevibrantvine.com

The View Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Rosé, Ehrenfelser, Pinotage theviewwinery.com

lA ke Country

50th Parallel Estate

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay 50thparallel.com

Arrowleaf Cellars

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Rosé arrowleafcellars.com

Blind Tiger Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah blindtigervineyards.ca

Ex Nihilo Vineyards

Okanagan Valley

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay exnihilovineyards.com

Gray Monk Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay graymonk.com

Intrigue Wines

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay intriguewines.ca

The Chase

Pinot Noir, Rosé thechasewines.com

nA r A m AtA

Bella Wines

Sparkling Wine bellawines.ca

Daydreamer Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Rosé, Chardonnay, Shiraz daydreamerwines.ca

Deep Roots Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Muscat deeprootswinery.com

Elephant Island Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Fruit Wines elephantislandwine.com

Forgotten Hill Wine Co.

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Rosé forgottenhillwineco.com

Foxtrot Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier foxtrotwine.com

JoieFarm

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Gamay JoieFarm.com

Kettle Valley Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Viognier, Zinfandel kettlevalleywinery.com

Lake Breeze Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Semillon lakebreeze.ca

Lang Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marechal Foch langvineyards.ca

Ledlin Family Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Bordeaux Blend ledlinfamilyvineyards.ca

Marichel Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah marichel.ca

Mocojo Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Viognier, Malbec mocojowines.com

Nichol Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, St. Laurent nicholvineyard.com

Origin Wines

Chardonnay originwines.ca

Serendipity Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio serendipitywinery.com

Therapy Vineyards & Guest House

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc therapyvineyards.com

Van Westen Vineyards

Cabernet Franc vanwestenvineyards.com

fA lls

BC Wine Studio

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc bcwinestudio.ca

Black Dog Cellars

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay blackdogcellars.ca

Blasted Church Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Pinot Blanc, Lemberger blastedchurch.com

Blue Mountain Vineyard & Cellars

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Gamay Noir, Sparkling Wine bluemountainwinery.com

Liquidity Wines

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier liquiditywines.com

Meyer Family Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay MFVwines.com

Nighthawk Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay nighthawkvineyards.com

Noble Ridge Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio nobleridge.com

See Ya Later Ranch

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay sylranch.com

Stag's Hollow Winery & Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Muscat, Tempranillo, Vidal stagshollowwinery.com

Synchromesh Wines

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc synchromeshwines.ca

Wild Goose Vineyards & Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Petit Verdot wildgoosewinery.com

o li V er

Bartier Bros. Winery

Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Semillon bartierbros.com

Black Hills Estate Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Roussanne blackhillswinery.com

Burrowing Owl Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec burrowingowlwine.ca

Cana Vines Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay canavineswinery.com

Cassini Cellars

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay cassini.ca

Castoro De Oro Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Vidal, Siegfried castorodeoro.com

Church & State Wines (Okanagan)

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec churchandstatewines.com

Covert Farms Family Estate

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Rosé, Pinot Blanc covertfarms.ca

Desert Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Gamay deserthills.ca

Gold Hill Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec goldhillwinery.com

Hidden Chapel Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec hiddenchapelwinery.com

Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Pinot Blanc, Tempranillo inniskillin.com

Intersection Estate Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Marsanne xwine.ca

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz jacksontriggswinery.com

Kismet Estate Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Bordeaux Blends kismetestatewinery.com

La Casa Bianca Winery

Riesling, Cabernet Franc lacasabianca.ca

Le Vieux Pin Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Rosé, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc levieuxpin.ca

Maverick Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Syrah maverickwine.ca

Montakarn Estate Winery

Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec montakarn.ca

Okanagan Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Gris ohwinery.com

Oliver Twist Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Kerner, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Shiraz olivertwistwinery.com

Pipe'Dreams Vineyard And Estate Winery

Merlot, Kerner, Gamay, Zweigelt pipedreamswinery.com

Platinum Bench Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Gamay Noir platinumbench.com

Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec quintaferreira.com

River Stone Estate Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Petit Verdot riverstoneestatewinery.ca

Secret Wines

Cabernet Sauvignon

Silver Sage Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc silversagewinery.com

Squeezed Wines

Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc squeezedwines.ca

Stoneboat Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot stoneboatvineyards.com

VinAmite Cellars

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gamay vinamitecellars.com

o soyoos

Adega On 45th Estate Winer

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec adegaon45.com

Blue Sky Estate Winery

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Shiraz blueskywinery.ca

Bordertown Vineyards

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grüner Veltliner bordertownwinery.com

Lariana Cellars

Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, Carménère larianacellars.com

LaStella Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio lastella.ca

Moon Curser Vineyards

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Tempranillo, Tannat, Bordeaux Blend mooncurser.com

Nk'Mip Cellars

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nkmipcellars.com

Osoyoos Larose Estate Winery

Bordeaux Blend osoyooslarose.com

Young & Wyse Collection

Pinot Noir, Syrah youngandwysewine.com

Pe AC hl A n D

Deep Creek Wine Estate & Hainle

Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Zweigel hainle.com

Fitzpatrick Family

Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Rosé, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser fitzwine.com

Penti C ton

Bench 1775 Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon bench1775.com

Black Widow Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Muscat, Schonburge blackwidowwinery.com

Crescent Hill Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Muscat crescenthillwinery.com

D’Angelo Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier dangelowinery.com

Hillside Winery & Bistro

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Muscat Ottonel hillsidewinery.ca

Howling Bluff Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc howlingbluff.ca

Kanazawa Wines

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Pinot Blanc kanazawawines.com

La Frenz Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc lafrenzwinery.com

Laughing Stock

Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier laughingstock.ca

Little Engine Wines

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc littleenginewines.com

Lock & Worth Winery

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon lockandworth.com

Misconduct Wine Co.

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Malbec, Muscat misconductwineco.com

Monster Vineyards

Riesling, Merlot, Chardonnay, Shiraz monstervineyards.ca

The guesthouse pool patio overlooks the vineyards at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery. Burrowing Owl Estate Winery photo

Moraine Estate Winery

Cabernet Sauvignon morainewinery.com

Painted Rock Estate

Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay paintedrock.ca

Pentâge Winery

Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay, Semillon, Tempranillo, Roussanne pentage.com

Perseus Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc perseuswinery.com

Play Estate Winery

Syrah, Viognier playwinery.com

Poplar Grove Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc poplargrove.ca

Quidni Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay, Viognier quidniwine.com

Red Rooster Winery

Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon redroosterwinery.com

Roche Wines

Schonberger, Zweigelt, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Gewurztraminer rterrior.ca

Ruby Blues Winery

Pinot Gris, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier rubyblueswinery.ca

Terravista Vineyards

Syrah, Viognier, Roussanne terravistavineyards.com

Three Sisters Winery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay 3sisterswinery.com

Tightrope Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier tightropewinery.ca

TIME Winery

Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc timewinery.com

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery (Naramata)

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc township7.com

Upper Bench Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Zweigelt upperbench.ca

s ummerl A n D

8th Generation Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Chardonnay, Frizzante 8thgeneration.com

Dirty Laundry Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Rosé dirtylaundry.ca

Estate Thurn Winery, Craft Distillery & Vinegar Brewery

Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc bodega1117.com

Evolve Cellars

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Sparkling Wine evolvecellars.com

Giant Head Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Merlot giantheadwinery.com

Heaven's Gate Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Gamay Noir, Semillon heavensgatewinery.ca

Lunessence Winery & Vineyard

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat, Dessert Wines lunessencewinery.com

Okanagan Crush Pad

Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Sparkling Wine okanagancrushpad.com

Sage Hills Organic Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Syrah, Merlot sagehillswine.com

Savard Vines

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Pinot Grigio savardvines.ca

Saxon Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot saxonwinery.com

Silkscarf Winery

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Malbec, Riesling-Muscat, ShirazViognier silkw.net

Sleeping Giant Fruit Winery

Fruit Wines, Dessert Wines sleepinggiantfruitwinery.com

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz sumacridge.com

SummerGate Winery Riesling, Kerner, Muscat Ottonel summergate.ca

Summerland Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot summerlandestatewinery.com

T.H. Wines

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Viognier thwines.com

The Back Door Winery

Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec backdoorwinery.com

Thornhaven Estates Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Pinot Meunier thornhaven.com

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Beaumont Family Estate Organic Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Rosé, Gamay Noir, Icewine beaumontwinery.com

Ciao Bella Estate Winery

Cabernet Franc, Pinot Grigio ciaobellawinery.com

Grizzli Winery

Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat grizzliwinery.com

Indigenous World

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Ehrenfelser, Muscat indigenousworldwinery.com

Kalala Organic Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Zweigelt, Vidal, Auxerrois kalalawines.ca

Little Straw Vineyards Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Siegerrebe, Chenin Blanc littlestraw.bc.ca

Mission Hill Family Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Icewine missionhillwinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt, Icewine, Zinfandel mtboucheriewinery.com

Similkameen

Niche Wine Company

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc nichewinecompany.com

Off The Grid Organic Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Chardonnay, Zweigelt offthegridorganicwinery.com

Quails' Gate Winery

Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Grigio, Icewine, Chenin Blanc quailsgate.com

Rollingdale Winery

Pinot Gris, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc rollingdale.ca

The Hatch Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay thehatchwines.com

Volcanic Hills Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt volcanichillswinery.com

Known both as Canada’s organic capital and its best-kept-secret wine country, the sun-soaked Similkameen produces everything from boldly tannic reds to bright, flinty whites. Surrounded by rugged mountains that trap the heat and funnel mildew-banishing winds through the vineyards, the valley features a variety of soils including stone, gravel and silty loam from glacial rock formations. Although there are relatively few wineries here, there are many vineyards that sell grapes to wineries in other regions.

Rustic Roots Winery

Fruit Wines, Dessert Wines rusticrootswinery.com

Seven Stones Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay sevenstones.ca

Vanessa Vineyard

Estate Winery

Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc vanessavineyard.com

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Little Farm Winery

Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay littlefarmwinery.ca

Orofino Vineyards

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Gamay Noir, Shiraz, Sparkling Wine, Muscat orofinovineyards.com

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Clos Du Soleil Winery

Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Pinot Blanc, Shiraz closdusoleil.ca

Corcelettes Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Rosé corceletteswine.ca

Robin Ridge Winery

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Rosé, Chardonnay, Gamay robinridgewinery.com

St. Laszlo Vineyards

Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Merlot stlaszlo.com

Vanessa Vineyards’ rocky soil creates big reds. Taehoon Kim photo

Other regions

Some of B.C.’s most exciting wines are being produced in regions that are so new, few people have heard of them. But given the awards they’re pulling in, these wineries will become well-known soon enough. And who knows where vintners will be planting grapes next?

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Fort Berens Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay fortberens.ca

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Baccata Ridge Winery

Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Foch, Gamay Noir, Zweigelt, Fruit Wines baccataridgewinery.ca

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Harper's Trail Estate

Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Rosé Sparkling harperstrail.com

Monte Creek Ranch

Winery

Chardonnay, Foch, Frontenac Blanc, Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, Marquette, Pinot Noir, Riesling montecreekranch.com

Privato Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Rosé, Chardonnay privato.ca

Sagewood Winery

Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Cabernet Franc sagewoodwinery.ca

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Baillie-Grohman

Estate Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer,

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay bailliegrohman.com

Columbia Gardens

Vineyard & Winery

Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon cgwinery.com

Heron Ridge Estates Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fruit Wines preceptwine.com

Pommier Ranch

Meadery Honey pommierranchmeadery.ca

Skimmerhorn Winery & Vineyard

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Ortega, Marechal Foch skimmerhorn.ca

SOAHC Estate Wines

Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay soahc.com

Wynnwood Cellars

Pinot Noir, Syrah wynnwoodcellars.com

Edge Of The Earth

Vineyards

Ortega, Marechal Foch edgeearth.ca

Lavina Estate

Pinot Gris, Ortega lavinaestatewinery.com

The Planet Bee

Meadery

Fruit Wines, Honey Wines, Mead www.planetbee.com

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Northern Lights Estate

Winery Ltd. Fruit Wines northernlightswinery.ca

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Celista Estate Winery

Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Ortega, Rosé, Foch, Marechal Foch celistawine.com

Larch Hills Winery

Ortega, Madeline Angevine, Agria larchhillswinery.com

Marionette Winery

Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Zweigelt marionettewinery.com

Ovino Winery

Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc ovinowinery.com/

Recline Ridge Vineyards & Winery

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, Rosé, Siegerrebe, Bacchus, Madeline Angevine , Marechal Foch, Zweigelt, Madeleine Sylvaner reclineridgewinery.com

Sunnybrae Vineyards & Winery

Pinot Noir, Ortega, Kerner, Siegerrebe, Marechal Foch, Schonburger sunnybraewinery.com

Waterside Vineyard & Winery

Merlot watersidewinery.com

The vineyard at Fort Berens Estate Winery. Fort Berens Estate Winery photo

The charm of Charmat

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE BUBBLE YOU’LL BE DRINKING

ALL SUMMER

Sujinder Juneja

There is arguably no beverage more versatile than sparkling wine. It’s what you drink when celebrating, commiserating or concocting your next culinary adventure.

But not all sparkling wines are the same. The most famous are the ones made according to the traditional Champagne method, which are known for their finesse, complex flavours and often steep price tag. But as summer’s heat approaches, consider instead a fun, easy-drinking and affordable style of sparkling wine made in the “other” traditional method: Charmat.

Named for Eugène Charmat, the inventor who patented the method in 1907, and also known as the tank or cuve close method, Charmat wines offer fresh and fruity flavours, typically at the fraction of Champagne’s price.

Unlike Champagne, which undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, Charmat wines are blended in pressurized stainless-steel tanks. Following a primary fermentation, the wines are mixed with sugar and yeast, and sealed in the tanks for a cool second fermentation that produces carbon dioxide and a bit more alcohol. The spent yeast is filtered out and a “dosage” of sugar and wine is added for sweetness and a hint of colour. The wine is bottled under pressure to ensure the preservation of the bubbles.

Charmat wines are made from a near-endless variety of grapes and often reveal upfront flavours of lemon curd,

tropical and stone fruits, vanilla and honey. The bubbles in these wines lean towards full, soft and frothy, with a playful mouthfeel.

Some of the most famous Charmat-method wines come from Italy (Prosecco, Asti, Lambrusco, Moscato), but are also made in Germany (Sekt), South Africa, Chile, Argentina, California, and of course, here in B.C., where they are the ultimate sippable summer sparklers.

FIVE B.C. CHARMAT WINES TO TRY

Evolve Cellars NV Élan Effervescence (Summerland, $20): Off-dry, bright and balanced.

JoieFarm 2017 Quotidien

(Naramata, $25): Juicy and toasty citrus.

Liquidity Wines NV Bubbly (Okanagan Falls, $23): Grapefruit, melon and a kiss of white pepper.

Stoneboat NV Piano (Oliver, $25): Peach, pear, green apple and honey.

The Hatch NV Octobubble Brut Rosé (West Kelowna, $30): Bright red fruit, hazelnut, lemon.

As summer’s heat approaches, consider a fun, easy-drinking and a ordable style of sparkling wine made in the ‘other’ traditional method: Charmat.