LFW S/S '12 Day 1 - 125 MAGAZINE
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FASHION
LFW S/S '12 DAY 1
London Fashion Week is upon us and our roving correspondent, Vanessa Austin Locke is braving the queues and the crowds to create a daily diary of events as they unfold. Day 1 With a micro-clutch bulging with invitations, many of which I will have no hope in hell of getting to due to the sad fact that I am only one person, my fashion week has well and truly begun. Beautiful autumnal weather has so far allowed attendees more freedom than usual in terms of wardrobe choice and it’s almost as fun to watch the efforts of press, guests and buyers as it is to watch the shows themselves. Last night, (Thursday) was the first LFW hair show, opened by Naomi Campbell and held in the BFC marquee at Somerset House. It was as slick as the styles it showcased, if a little conservative and could have done with a stronger signature but certainly inspired me to attempt impossible things with my hair, which is the point.Today (Friday), we began with Paul Costelloe at 9am. It’s a very clever bit of PR thinking to put an unmissable show on at 9am everyday and get us party-worn penmen out of bed for the day. We were shown to our seats by Paul’s entirely charming sons who, having modelled previously, were now fulfilling the role of hosts. Always a polished, elegant collection S/S 2012 is no exception. The bell sleeves rather stole my heart as did the very gentle smiles on the corners of the models bright mouths, a relaxing change from the often harsh looks we know and love. Short was defiantly the order of the day but this was tempered by high, almost puritanical necklines, puffed sleeves, flared dresses and tightly twisted knots of hair. Brocade featured heavily and there was a nod to the sixties, but just a small one, which had certainly been developed. The colour palette was all ivory, dove grey, mellow, dusky pinks and peppermint cream green with a smattering of gold to keep it warm. That’s until we got to the boys, who stood out in loose fitting, bright lavender suits. I always leave Paul’s shows feeling that he must be a thoroughly nice chap because quite frankly, anyone who designs clothes with such light, simple finesse just has to be.
Caroline Charles presented a classic collection of drop-waists, heavy embroidery and soft femininity with a dash of mixed animal print to bring it on trend. The silhouettes spanned the 20s, 30s and early 40s and transported me to the Cote d’Azur in its hay day. She’s a designer that knows her audience and while it’s not the sort of thing that sweeps me off my feet right now, I could certainly imagine myself in her lovely things fifteen years from hence. Next it was a dash over to Freemason’s Hall to catch Neutopia, which was modern and sporty and featured the best pair of high-waisted red flared trousers I have ever seen. Bernard Chandran at Grosvenor Place, who I was excited to see again after last season, left me conflicted. One outfit absolutely delighted and the very next caused me to wrinkle my nose at what I felt was a slightly questionable choice of fabrics, which reminded me of the dresses my mother used to make for my Barbies. Naturally I adored them then but whether that translates to the tastes of the (hopefully) sophisticated woman I have become is another matter. However, the parts of the collection I did love were tres chic (see, told you I was sophisticated) with another sporty angle, simple lines, some really great shoulder details (shoulders are the body part of spring and summer it would seem), metallic fabrics and another dusky yet warm colour palette. Finally the one we all scrum for, Felder Felder. If there were ever designers who understand women (not just their bodies, but their hearts too) it’s Felder Felder. It must surely be the experience of having an identical twin sister that gives them this incredible insight. A woman watching a Felder Felder show feels like she is part of a community of female comrades who are powerful, beautiful, brave, heartfelt and real. This collection particularly appealed to me because it brought back grunge. Tie-dye (yes!) but not too much, strong on the bottom, free on the top or vice versa and chest. I love to see braless breasts worn with pride and purpose under loose weave. What a kick. This collection is fearless, fluid and about to have an adventure somewhere exciting and dark where we’re not supposed to go. The mystery is on fire with sexy and tells the tough, but beautiful story of women’s lives everywhere. Tomorrow (Saturday) it’s DAKS, Ashish, Felicity Brown, Jaeger, Craig Lawrence, Belle Sauvage, John Rocha, Spijkers en Spijkers, our best beloved Vivienne Westwood, plus the screening of a film directed by Johnny Green and Starring Liberty Ross, a visit to the house of Antoni & Alison and the Fashion Fringe Awards. Let’s see how much of it we can get to… wish me luck! Follow events live @125Mag < PREV | NEXT >
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28/10/2011 11:46