LFW S/S '12 Day 4 - 125 MAGAZINE
http://www.125magazine.com/index.php?p_id=300&pg=508
ShareThis
Keyword Search...
FASHION
LFW S/S '12 DAY 4
Entered a bit of a vortex… queues, small talk and canapé (offer me another canapé and I’ll ram it down your throat.) All the folks who looked so fresh and cool on Friday are now just blurring into a big pile of randomly put together outfits and the harder everyone tries to look unique the more impossible that seems to become. Cool is dull and since uncool is now cool (brogues, preppy etc) that’s even duller. So at this point I’m left asking myself why I’m here. Fashion week burn-out or is British fashion in trouble? First thing this morning I went to interview Edward Finney who you’ll remember from day two with his guerrilla campaign in Somerset House courtyard. He had some interesting views on the subject, which made for a fascinating interview and worthy of a whole feature to itself, so check back for that in a few days. My first show of the day was Antipodium in the Portico rooms with wide-open windows and blowing muslin drapes. This was a designer I didn’t know much about and while it was miles away from my personal tastes I really enjoyed it. There was a fun twist on animal prints with fabric presenting a montage of cats and dogs faces. Brogues are (still) in apparently, they seem to have been around for ages and I’m bored of them, they don’t suit me and I think they look a bit daft when teamed with everything. I know, I know, they are the staple at the moment, just not my thing. Sports, was a big theme again here, done in a lovely subtle way with what looked like a mesh of tennis rackets in black and white fabric and when set against the preppy look it created a nice juxtaposition. Damn it, I knew I’d never get through the week without using that word. Older models too which was wonderful. And what faces! I love a lined and life-beaten face, so much more interesting than blank beauty. Off-Neapolitan colours again, three quarter length skirts that kept the figure straight up and down along with the hair. Umber hews freshened with bright blues is powering through many collections and this was no exception. Martin van der Ham is my favourite person today, treating his public like people instead of cattle and serving us a lunch of quiche and fizz. Without letting that sway my opinions, I enjoyed this show immensely. More bell sleeves, (another one that’s heading to the finish line), sporty but subtle wrap skirts and shift dresses, more chunky mesh, deep, dusky pinks and umber and orange. A pattern is certainly emerging. This was more up my street in terms of glamour and femininity rather than anti-femininity, which while I appreciate on others, androgyny just doesn’t work on me. I’m most definitely a woman. Back over Waterloo bridge for Mark Fast and fringe fringe fringe, grunge, burnt sienna, knotting, crochet, neutral colours warming up up up from beige to gold to orange to black… a volcano of spring and summer. Gold beading, 20s flapper influence and good-sized models. This collection took me to the docks of some industrial harbour town, maybe even NYC back in the day. Last stop of the day was Todd Lynn with an almost colourless collection of mushroom, navy, silver and grey in titanium tones throughout. This collection was really beautiful, and again, almost anti-spring and summer. We’re seeing some very strong, dark colours emerging for sure, this summer is about power and passion. Great cutout detail on the hips and button-up shirt collars. Sporty shorts again, silk this time and shorts over trousers (!) which I actually really liked despite myself. Lovely loose ruching over the hips which are certainly the focal body part for Lynn. Shirts with tails, classic morning coats for the boys and cropped page boy coats for the lasses. Oh, and a few pleats. And some a-symmetry. And open weave. Yes, that’s it. A very striking show. There was model roadkill today but I won’t dwell there for fear of stacking it tomorrow myself. My last stop of the day was the loo. Me: “Is this queue for the loo?” LFW PR girl: “Yes, do you have an invitation?” Yes dear, shall I RSVP over your shoes? Time to go home. @125Mag < PREV | NEXT >
COMMENTS
2 of 2
28/10/2011 11:47