VA R O N Gentleman's Magazine Vol. 1 • 2011
Thom Browne The influential designer who welcomed the neo-gentleman.
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VARON Gentleman's Magazine Vol. 1• 2011
Editor-In-Chief Nacho Pinedo creative director James Lin Fashion director Hugo Lavín Art Direction On the Rocks © contributing Fashion Editors Laura Hart / Emilia Buccolo / Arthur B. McKenzie contributing Writers Anders Christian Madsen / João Paulo Nunes Contributing Photographers Toni Torres / Nils Clauss / Lonny Spence / Carlos Chavarría / Chris Craymer / Paul Maffi Jose Arágon / Nik Hartley / Emilio Garcia Hernandez / Uxio da Vila contributing ARTISTS & Stylists Toby Grimditch / Tom Van Dorpe / Shirley Amartey / Ignasi Monreal special thanks Cenital Estudios / Jacques Shu / Luis Moreno Freire / Eva Perez Casesmeiro / Javier Torrente Nacho Aguayo / Kristina Kelly Ho
Varón Madrid office Calle Pedro Muguruza,8 28036 Madrid phone +34 913 597 617 varon@varonmag.com www.varonmag.com International distribution Export Press. Paris +33 1 40 29 14 51 dir@exportpress.com For advertisement inquiries please contact varon@varonmag.com Printing CA Grafica , Pontevedra , Spain Copyright VARÓN © 2011,the authors and the photographers reproduction without permission prohibited ISSN 2171-6439
12/13 Music Office Jam 14/55 People Crowd Surf 56/61 People Pola Road 62/65 Style Analysis I Bag It 66/75 Cover Thom Browne Territory 76/81 Style Analysis II Zip-A-Dee-Doo-Dah 82/91 Fashion New Essentials 92/105 Fashion City Nomad 106/115 Fashion Working Class 116/129 Fashion Rebel of the Playground 130 Addresses
Photo by Uxio Da Villa
J A M Vesuvius by Sufjan Stevens Tout Doucement by Blossom Dearie All Around and Away We Go by Twin Sister Rome (Neighbours remix) by Phoenix (feat. Devendra Banhart) Bombay by El Guincho Sex Tourists by French Kicks I'm Not Gonna Teach Your Boyfriend How To Dance With You by Black Kids Swim by Surfer Blood Terminally Chill by Neon Indian The Greatest by Cat Power Lost in the World by Kanye West (feat. Bon Iver) Osaka Loop Line by Discvoery Infinity Guitars by Sleigh Bells Your Woman by White Town Excuses by The Morning Benders Home by Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros Helicopter by Deerhunter Not in Love by Crystal Castles (feat. Robert Smith) Islands (Jamie xx Remix) by The xx This Charming Man by The Smiths Heart In Your Heartbreak by The Pains of Being Pure at Heart
CR WD Surfing We live in a world where society is hooked on the famous. People want to know everything and anything about them. We at Varon believe that we are all celebrities. The only disparity is the scale of “celebrity-dom”. This story is a tribute to the everyday celebrity – people who are loved, admired, and imitated.
We
asked them questions, took their photos, and wondered what stories they had to tell. This is our crowd of “local celebs” unknown to the world but celebrities in their own right.
Julien Aschner Jang-Su Chu • Alejandro Grande • Greg Sato • Rupert Goodwin Ryuichiro Louis Iijima • Yoshiyuki Ogata Jang-Gin Park • Edward Campbell-white • Stas Komarovski • Tetsuya Mabuchi • Martin Hargreaves Toni Torres • Hiroyuki Kimura • Carlos Chairez • Ho-Dal Kim • Dennis Hirdt • Mauricio Valdespino Amaya • JungGeum Kim • DaviD Fernandez • Toshikazu Iwaya • Jang-Mo Jeong • Calvin Y. Chan • Javier Bone Carbone • Takumi Iwata John ODakota • Bernardo Hernandez • Matt Ghering
Julien Aschner
33 London Sales Assistant at Tate Modern, Curator of Vyner "GIFT" gallery and PR for Keep Zero Gravity on Bricklane Likes to collect magazines Photo by Lonny Spence How do you perceive yourself? Open minded, good listener, rude sometimes, creative, love to share and learn new things. What is the first thing you do in the morning? Make a cup of tea and jump into the shower. Do you iron your shirts? No, never. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? The originality and a lovely shape. Do you care what others think of you? Sometimes yes, depends how I feel. Do you have any eating habits? I love to eat honey in my bed with a good movie or with a lovely book. How do you feel about getting older? The more I grow up, the more I learn, and the more interesting life is. If you didn't live in London, where would you live? In a desert in Israel. Three sounds you love: The Doors "Riders on the storm", Devendra Banhart "My dearest friend", and Deerhunter "Sailing"
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Sweater by Tim Soar.
Jang-su Chu 85 / Seoul / Previously employed by government / Likes boxing Photo by Nils Clauss
How do you perceive yourself? No comment What's the first thing you do in the morning? Morning excercise Do you iron your shirts? No, I take them to the dry cleaner What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Comfortableness Do you care what others think of you? Yes, I do Do you have any eating habits? In particular, I like GOMTANG (beef-bone soup) How do you feel about getting older? I am satisfied about growing older If you didn't live in Seoul, where would you live? I don't want to live anywhere else Three sounds you love... 1. Guitar 2. Saxophone 3. Old songs
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Alejandro Grande 31 / Madrid / Producer Likes to Skateboard Photo by Nacho Pinedo
How do you perceive yourself? I am not able to effectively respond in a magazine. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I look at the sky, maybe I check the weather (not necessarily in this order) and then the Mauro Entrialgo's comic strip on his blog. Do you iron your shirts? Never and I hope this never changes. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Sneakers. What do I look for in a good pair of sneakers... Do you care what others think of you? Yes, especially the women in my family. Do you have any eating habits? I never eat carbohydrates at night time. How do you feel about getting older? It’s too soon to think about it, I’m not that old yet. If you didn't live in Madrid, where would you live? I think Madrid will always be my city. Three sounds you love... Bleeps, pet sounds and the sounds my dogs make.
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Greg Sato
31 / Men’s Accessories Designer for GENTRY / Los Angeles / Likes being an uncle to his 3-year-old niece, Chloe Kazuko ClancY Photo by Toni torres
How do you perceive yourself ? As a work in progress. As a wanderer in a world full of curiosities. As an adventurer with complete abandon. As an explorer with an insatiable sense of wanderlust. Now, perception vs. reality…that’s a whole other conversation in and of itself ! What's the first thing you do in the morning? Roll over and look at my blackberry to see what fires need to be put out. Sad, but true. Do you iron your shirts? Absolutely. Shirts need to be ironed or steamed before every wear. Life is lived in the details. A few ill-placed wrinkles can completely ruin the look you were going for with your $300 tailored shirt. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? A good pair of shoes needs to be first and foremost timeless. I love a classic pair of shoes that can be worn on any occasion and at any point in time. The worst thing a man can do is buy into trend. Before they’ve even shown signs of age, their time has passed. The best investment a man can make is in a sturdy pair of boots. I wholeheartedly recommend a pair of handmade boots by Mr. George Esquivel. Do you care what others think of you? I care what those who I love and respect think of me. Reputation takes years to build and seconds to destroy. There is nothing worse than losing that amongst those you hold dear. Do you have any eating habits? Sriracha (or commonly referred to as ‘the rooster sauce’) can pretty much be put on anything. My favorite meal of the day is that late night meal right before bedthe most satisfying sedative known to man. How do you feel about getting older? I look forward to it. As a man, I think we’re lucky in that age treats us well. A splash of grey in the hair, atop bespectacled eyes, says erudite, experienced, worldly, and wise. I can definitely get used to that. If you didn't live in Los Angeles, where would you live? Barcelona Three sounds you love... 1. The crinkling sound the pages of a newspaper makes when you turn them. 2. The crunching sound a dog makes when eating its dried food. 3. That ever so sweet and subtle moan a woman makes when shifting in her sleep.
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Rupert Goodwin
34 • Film • Publicist • London • Likes Photography Photo by Lonny Spence How do you perceive yourself? With pessimistic optimism. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Stumble half asleep to the shower... Do you iron your shirts? Tailored shirts yes; casual shirts I'll avoid ironing if I can. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? A classic leather shoe or boot. Do you care what others think of you? In general yes, but on occasion I just won't give a damn. Do you have any eating habits? I snack constantly or I forget to eat. How do you feel about getting older? I'm comfortable with it even if it approaches a little too fast for my liking. If you didn't live in London, where would you live? Barcelona Three sounds you love... 1. Footsteps on pavement 2. The rush of music upon entering a club 3. Silence
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Cardigan by Peter Jensen and t-shirt by Sunspel.
Ryuichiro Louis Iijima
36 / Tokyo / Photographer and Art Director (OgiklvyAction Tokyo) / Likes triathlons and dance music Photo by Jose ArĂĄgon How do you perceive yourself? Addictive.
Do you have any eating habits? I try to eat as many different kinds of food as possible.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? I check my Sleep Cycle on my iPhone.
How do you feel about getting older? I feel more comfortable and I feel like I need to get out of my comfort zone.
Do you iron your shirts? Yes, I like spraying starch and the smell of it.
If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? Berlin. And I´m moving there soon.
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Presence.
Three sounds you love... Distorted multi layered bass, women reaching to climax, and my own heart beat.
Do you care what others think of you? Yes, I care about what others think of my personality.
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Yoshiyuki Ogata
38 / Tokyo / Designer / Likes to work Photo by Jose Arรกgon
How do you perceive yourself? Instinctive.
Do you have any eating habits? I drink 1 liter of milk everyday.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? See my son's face.
How do you feel about getting older? Nothing
Do you iron your shirts? No, is that very important?
If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? Kyoto
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? New and good feeling of the ground.
Three sounds you love... 1. Flapping sound of karate-gi 2. Insects chirping during a summer's night. 3. The voices of my kids' playing outside.
Do you care what others think of you? Yes, of course. That's what creators are.
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Jang-Gin Park
73 路 Haengsin 路 Previously a Handcraftsman 路 LIKES PEOPLE WATCHING Photo by Nils Clauss How do you perceive yourself? Have not thought about that What's the first thing you do in the morning? I go to the toilet Do you iron your shirts? I either hand them to the dry cleaner or do it myself. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? I just buy cheap shoes and throw them away after they are worn out. Do you care what others think of you? In terms of people who know me, I do care people who do not know me, I don't care about what they think of me. Do you have any eating habits? I eat everything but fish. How do you feel about getting older? I don't think about aging, I just think about enjoying everyday life. If you didn't live in Haengsin, where would u live? Somewhere in the country side. Three sounds you love... Music and bird sounds...
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Edward Campbell-White 30 / London / Arborist / Likes Photography Photo by Lonny Spence
How do you perceive yourself? Hard to say without feeling a bit self conscious. but I would say, open minded and stubbourn along with a mischievious sense of humour. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Kiss the wife Do you iron your shirts? Yes, when they need ironing. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Simple styling, well made and functional Do you care what others think of you? I'd like to say no; but yes. Do you have any eating habits? Too many bacon, egg and sausage sandwiches for breakfast. How do you feel about getting older? Good except for losing my athleticism. If you didn't live in London, where would you live? If I didn't live in south London, I'd live in west London Three sounds you love... 1. Reggae 2. Dawn 3. The wife
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Sweater by Armand Basi.
Stas Komarovski 27 Brooklyn Assistant to Steven Meisel Likes Skateboarding
Photo by Emilio Garcia Hernandez How do you perceive yourself? Calm, focused, hard-working, tactful, and curious. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Hit the snooze button on the alarm to get ten more minutes of sleep. Do you iron your shirts? Yes I do. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Style, durability, and comfort. Do you care what others think of you? In regards to my outward appearance yes. In regards to my political and religious views not so much. Do you have any eating habits? I don’t eat breakfast. That’s not a good habit but it’s still a habit. How do you feel about getting older? I look forward to it. If you didn't live in Brooklyn, where would you live? I’ve lived in a lot of places but next I would want to try Berlin. Three sounds you love... The sounds of the ocean, the sounds of the forest, and the violin.
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Tetsuya Mabuchi 47 / Tokyo / Executive Director of Modeling Agency Image Corp / Likes Motor Bikes Photo by Jose Arágon
How do you perceive yourself? Hard to say, but I guess I am always “Just going my way”, I believe what I think is right and I try to step forward along the line of my belief. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I kiss my girl friend. Do you iron your shirts? NO What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? From Classic designed ones to funky designed ones, I love all of them. but I always seek comfort in my shoes along with the "stylishness" to wear in the city. Do you care what others think of you? I do not know what they think of me. Do you have any eating habits? I love Japanese food the most. I've traveled all around the world and I have come to conclude that Japanese food holds the finest cuisine. The secret is dashi, a broth made out of different ingredients. Japanese broth is so delicate and it allows many layers of flavor to develop in your mouth. How do you feel about getting older? I enjoy the fact that I am getting older. Life provides me with more experience every day of my life which makes me wiser and stronger as an adult. But, I am a kid at heart and my curiosity reflects that. It allows me to enjoy everyday and to look forward to the next day. If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? Many choices… Hard to say… But honestly speaking, I would love to live in Hawaii. It offers a great ocean, nature and the weather is just awesome. I also love the fact there are many artists in Hawaii. I would love to work in that relaxing time frame one day! Three sounds you love... When I am in the city, I love rock & roll any time of the day. I love to drive and listen to music with great beats - gives me energy. On the contrary, when I am in the nature I love to listen to the sounds it has to offer. It provides me with perfect relaxation and allowd me to float with the gift from god.
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Martin Hargreaves
37 London Lecturer in The Body in Performance and editor of Dance Theatre Journal Photo by Lonny Spence
How do you perceive yourself? With a brutal and merciless scrutiny. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Check my iPhone. It’s a terrible answer but it’s true. Do you iron your shirts? Yes, but only in the morning when I need one. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? I don’t wear leather, so I try and find the best vegan shoes I can. Do you care what others think of you? Yes. I wish I didn’t. Do you have any eating habits? I always have a bar of dark chocolate in my bag. How do you feel about getting older? I don’t waste too much time thinking about it, since it’s inevitable. I like my grey hair and I’m happy to leave behind my teens and twenties. If you didn't live in London, where would you live? New York Three sounds you love... 1. Jamie Stewart 2. Cagney & Lacey theme tune 3. “As I Watch You Walk Away” by Jean Du Shon
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Toni Torres
Undisclosed Los Angeles Creative director Photographer Photo By Toni Torres
How do you perceive yourself? In a constant existential crisis
Do you have any eating habits? Yes, I always chew.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Wake up.
How do you feel about getting older? Denial, denial, denial, until the irrefutable fact of aging are just that, irrefutable.
Do you iron your shirts? Nope. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Good looks. Do you care what others think of you? No, as long as they are just thinking good things
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If you didn't live in Los Angeles, where would you live? Tokyo, New York, Madrid, Paris and Hong Kong. Three sounds you love... The voice of my girlfriends, the sound of her laughter, and the beat of her heart.
Hiroyuki Kimura 33 Tokyo Photographer Likes baseball and surf
Photo By Jose Arรกgon
How do you perceive yourself? Honest and passionate.
Do you have any eating habits? I eat sushi once a week.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Pray for my family.
How do you feel about getting older? It is fun!
Do you iron your shirts? No, I like a wrinkled shirt more.
If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? New York, Milan or Barcelona
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Black and shiny. Do you care what others think of you? Not at all.
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Three sounds you love... The sound of good sake pouring into my cup, my beautiful wife's voice, and my baby waking up in the morning.
Carlos Cháirez 39 Los Angeles Producer and Composer Likes remote control artifacts Photo by Toni Torres
How do you perceive yourself? Easy like Sunday Mornings. What is the first thing you do in the morning? I usually wait ‘till noon to start with the “serious” work. Do you iron your shirts? Only when needed. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Every pair of shoes should be good in every aspect. From looks to wearability. A good sole for performing is always important. Do you care what others think of you? Only my girl and my dog. Do you have any eating habits? I usually eat two times a day, but I crave for food for the most part of the day. How do you feel about getting older? Nothing wrong with that as long as the mind stays sharp. If you didn't live in Los Angeles, where would you live? Probably Mexico City. Three sounds you love: The Cowbell, the sound of silence, and the Theremin.
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Ho-dal Kim
81 路 Seoul 路 Previously a public officer 路 LIKES EXCERCISE AND READING Photo by Nils Clauss How do you perceive yourself? I don't think of anything in particlar about myself. This comes with old age. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I wash my face, excercise, and eat. Do you iron your shirts? Yes, I do. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? The shoes I buy need to match my taste. Do you care what others think of you? I don't care. Do you have any eating habits? I prefer Korean food. How do you feel about getting older? I do not care. If you didn't live in Seoul, where would you live? Busan, South Korea (the town where I grew up Busan is the second biggest Korean city in the far south right next to the Southern Ocean) . Three sounds you love... The sound of the ocean and music.
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Dennis Hirdt
28 / New York / Model and musician Likes reading Photo by Emilio Garcia Hernandez How do you perceive yourself? I like to laugh as much as possible. I'm serious about my work but love to hang out with people with a great sense of humor.
Do you care what others think of you? Not much.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Make strong coffee.
How do you feel about getting older? Bring it on.
Do you have any eating habits? Cheese is God's gift to the world
Do you iron your shirts? Sometimes.
If you didn't live in Los Angeles, where would you live? Palma de Mallorca
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Durability, style, and comfort.
Three sounds you love... Crackling fireplace, splashing waves, howling wind and rain (when I’m home).
Mauricio Valdespino Amaya
30 / Mexico City / Fashion Editor / Likes To go to the theater Photo by Emilio Garcia Hernandez How do you perceive yourself? Like someone happy, that works a lot and has a very specific sense of life. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I read my twitter while taking a bath. Do you iron your shirts? No, somebody irons them for me. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Design and comfort. I love Christian Louboutin Do you care what others think of you? No, I have never cared.
Do you have any eating habits? Yes , I eat really badly. I love burgers How do you feel about getting older? I like it, but I feel life is too short If you didn't live in Mexico City, where would you live? New York or Milan. Three sounds you love: Jingle bells, heels in a corridor, and the sea.
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Jung-geum Kim
82 路 Seoul 路 Managed a clothing store Likes taking walks Photo by Nils Clauss
How do you perceive yourself? I just think of me being normal What's the first thing you do in the morning? I wash my face Do you iron your shirts? Yes, I do What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? nothing specific Do you care what others think of you? I don't care Do you have any eating habits? I prefer DOENJANG STEW (bean paste stew) and I don't eat meat How do you feel about getting older? I think I will live a long life, so I don't care If you didn't live in Seoul, where would u live? in a quiet place with clean air Three sounds you love... Bird sounds, water sounds, and music.
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David Fernรกndez
38 / Madrid / Set Designer / Likes to write Photo by nacho pinedo
How do you perceive yourself? I like myself.
Do you have any eating habits? I unsuccesfully tried to eat healthy things. I try not to consume any meat.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Open my eyes. Do you iron your shirts? No
How do you feel about getting older? The problem of getting old is the lack of references. In a society based upon production and consumption, getting older is a stigma you try to hide.
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? I look for a pair of shoes that help me walk.
If you didn't live in Madrid, where would you live? I live where I want to live.
Do you care what others think of you? Only from people that I love. I never care what other people think of me, because the concept of "others" is too abstract of a concept.
Three sounds you love... 1. The sound of a body under the duvet. 2. The strong breathing while making love. 3. The sound of my bike.
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Toshikazu Iwaya
35 / Toyko / fashion designer / Likes to design all the time Photo by Jose Arรกgon
How do you perceive yourself? Strong and shy.
Do you have any eating habits? Non-fat foods.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Smoke a cigarette.
How do you feel about getting older? Just fine about it.
Do you iron your shirts? Yes
If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? New York City
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Good form.
Three sounds you love... The sound of a violin, cat sounds, and a sexy voice.
Do you care what others think of you? No
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Jang-mo Jeong 81 / Seoul / Previously a businessman / Likes FOOD Photo by Nils Clauss How do you perceive yourself? I think I am pretty normal. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Light excercise. Do you iron your shirts? No, I take them to the dry cleaner. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? I care about size and go for a normal kind of style. Do you care what others think of you? Yes, I do care. Do you have any eating habits? I am not picky in terms of food, I eat everything. How do you feel about getting older? It is a normal thing. If you didn't live in Seoul, where would you live? In a place with clean air Three Sounds you love... Music. Specifically, modern pop and old songs.
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Calvin Y. Chan
27 / Los Angeles / Businessman and Hospitality Likes Backgammon
Photo by Toni Torres
How do you perceive yourself? I will not lose. What's the first thing you do in the morning? Current routine: relieve myself, feed cats, drink glass of water and wash dishes from the night before. Do you iron your shirts? If necessary and I can't get to the cleaners, of course. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Width. Do you care what others think of you? Well that depends on who your are now doesn't it? Do you have any eating habits? My goal in life is to be able to eat whatever I want, whenever I want. How do you feel about getting older? Til' the wheels fall off If you didn't live in Los Angeles, where would you live? Cinque Terre. Three sounds you love... Success, silence and laughter.
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JavieR Boné-Carboné
28 / New York City / Production director & event coordinator for Visionaire Photo bY Emilio Garcia Hernandez How do you perceive yourself? As a direct descendent of Uncle Oswald.
Do you have any eating habits? Never eat out of a plastic container, using plastic utensils or facing a screen.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Hit “SNOOZE” and go back to sleep.
How do you feel about getting older? I’ve always admired older people and tried to look older than my real age. I never liked being a kid or a teenager— found it dreadfully boring.
Do you iron your shirts? No, I have them ironed—only starched on neck and cuffs. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Provided they are “good”- quality then, I only look for them to be “bad”- ass.
If you didn't live in New York, where would you live? Somewhere where nature is bluntly present. Three sounds you love... 1. The snort of a horse 2. The sound of wind blowing against a sail 3. The sound of silence.
Do you care what others think of you? Of course! It would be rude if I didn’t. The only person I don’t care what thinks about me is myself. 54
Takumi Iwata
30 / Tokyo / Fashion Stylist / Likes to travel Photo by Jose Arágon How do you perceive yourself? Complicated.
Do you have any eating habits? I drink a cup of coffee every morning.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? I check my email in my bed via iPhone.
How do you feel about getting older? It is nice but I would like to stay 30 forever.
Do you iron your shirts? No, I do not.
If you didn't live in Tokyo, where would you live? A forest.
What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? A silhouette.
Three sounds you love... 1. Organ Donor by DJ Shadow 2. Pink Moon by Nick Drake 3. The Great Curve by Talking Heads
Do you care what others think of you? In volumes.
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Pola Road Photos by Carlos Chavarria
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John ODakota
41 / Tucson / Poker Player / Likes Snakes How do you perceive yourself? Honest.
Do you have any eating habits? I eat a lot of pistachios.
What's the first thing you do in the morning? Check who is beside me.
How do you feel about getting older? I feel bad about it, hate it.
Do you iron your shirts? No. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Style. Do you care what others think of you? Not really.
If you didn't live in Tuscon, where would you live? West coast of Mexico. Three sounds you love... 1. The hiss of a snake. 2. Poker chips sweeping towards me. 3. Church bells.
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Bernardo Hernandez
40 / San Francisco Entrepreneur and Sr. Director at Google Likes Photography, running and sports How do you perceive yourself? Fun, naive, full of energy and ambitious. A bit crazy. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I think about what excites me for the day, I stretch, and then I check email. Do you iron your shirts? I dont, but I used to love it. What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? Shoes are like a good partner. They need to have endurance, good shape and excellent raw materials. They are a touch of distinction. Do you care what others think of you? Of course, less then before, but I still do. Do you have any eating habits? 5 meals a day and lots of dark chocolate. How do you feel about getting older? Anxious, we are not made for conscious finitude. If you didn't live in San Francisco, where would you live? New York, no doubt. Center of the Universe. Three sounds you love... 1. A bird waking me up in the mornings from my backyard. 2. The sound of water running through a waterfall. 3. The sound of an old vinyl disc player when the disc is over.
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Matt Ghering
33 / San Francisco Financial Analyst Likes Cyclocross
How do you perceive yourself? I perceive myself as as a marshal of a joyous band of merry'makers. What's the first thing you do in the morning? I try to work out in the mornings. That way you make sure you get in your exercise and feel like you have accomplished something. Do you iron your shirts? Yes! Definitely! What do you look for in a good pair of shoes? I strive for a classic, minimalist style. I look for simple clean lines and not a lot of bulk. Do you care what others think of you? Yes and no. I strive to impress, but only at the things I care about. Do you have any eating habits? Good and bad. I am immensely grateful for the wisdom I've earned through the years, but, of course, I miss the more carefree adventures of my youth. That said, my life is constantly improving. How do you feel about getting older? It is a normal thing. If you didn't live in San Francisco, where would you live? Probably London, but I wouldn't leave San Francisco for it. I'd also love to explore Buenos Aires, but I can't say I'd live there without ever having visited. Three sounds you love... 1. LCD Soundsystem - Dance Yrself Clean 2. Neon Indian - Psychic Chasms (Anoraak Remix) 3. Flight Facilities - Crave You feat. Giselle
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The Sustainability of Bagging Style by João Paulo Nunes Illustration by Ignasi Monreal
bags and the functional support that that they provide. However, men have started buying bags in large numbers not just for their usefulness but also for their designs, so that they match or accentuate clothes, shoes and other accessories. As such, it is not unusual for men to now own sometimes dozens of bags to match options of outfits and function. In this sense, the ubiquitous man bag has generated numerous forms of conspicuous displays of consumption.
On a recent Sunday afternoon, while browsing through the stalls on Prince Street in New York’s Nolita neighbourhood, I had a pleasant chat with a bag designer who sold stunning tote bags. He told me that his men’s bags were more popular than ever because it seemed that men had finally realised that they needed them to carry all the things they owned (and never knew they had!) and there was no way back to living without them. In the current era of augmented communication, men need to leave their homes often laden with newspapers, books, magazines, note books, diaries, laptops, iPods, iPads, Blackberries, Kindles, and several other devices needed to be in touch and to exchange information. The space taken by this plethora of gadgets also competes with the room needed for gym clothes, trainers and skin products needed for a workout squeezed in between meetings or after work. In this sense, a man’s bag occupies a functional dimension that cannot be ignored.
Understandably, this trend raises some concerns when it comes to the sustainability of fashion. To better comprehend this, it is worth revisiting 2007 when, propelled by the trend to be environmentally friendly, the world of accessories decided to charge forward by reinventing the shopper or tote canvas bag. The force behind this move was the assumption that it was unfashionable to use plastic bags. Back then, the designer Anya Hindmarch, in collaboration with the global social change movement We Are What We Do, de-
It is undeniable that men have become significantly attached to 62
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signed the sell-out tote ‘I’m Not a Plastic Bag’. The totes, which were supposed to alert the world to the damage that some plastics were inflicting on nature, were part of a limited edition and sold for £5 each. The fact that they were launched in four limited edition colours around the world, and were selected by the magazine Vanity Fair to be included in their goodie bags at the Oscars, raised eyebrows as to whether they were really about increasing awareness of damage to the environment or about the value of the Hindmarch brand. The fact that some of the totes originally came wrapped in plastic bags did not help the credibility of their message.
to try to buy a ‘I’m Not a Plastic Bag’, while rumour has it that 30 people in Beijing were treated in hospital after being caught in a purchase scrum. As a consequence, it was no surprise that fake ‘I’m not a Plastic Bag’ totes inundated street markets around the world, almost always costing more than the original £5 bag. In just a few weeks, and because of the (far from environmentally friendly) mass production of copies, the status of the original bag swiftly descended from the luxury closet to the charity shop floor. In spite of this, fashion consumers jumped on the supposedly environmentally friendly canvas bag bandwagon with frantic enthusiasm, and the market of men’s accessories soon became a victim. In what looked like an overnight takeover, virtually every designer embraced the production of such bags and, be-
Despite the criticism, the bag was a hit for a significant time. Some 80,000 people queued outside shops throughout the UK on public launch day and 190,000 customers registered online 64
cause of their popularity and coveted branding status, any price could be attached. If APC launched denim totes that sold for less than £25 (a very reasonably price to carry a desirable brand of a company that was then selling shirts and jeans for men for over £100), Marc by Marc Jacobs produced a canvas bag that was sold for £19 in its London shop but for up to four times this price in shopping websites. At the same time, a Gucci, Berluti or Prada tote bag for men could easily sell for £1,000.
to write the word ‘Recycled’ comes from unrecyclable sources. The high carbon footprint to bring bags from India and China to wealthier markets in Europe, the USA and the Middle East, or from the best leather workshops in Italy to China and Russia, is also proof that many bags may be anything but good for the environment. I am glad for stall owners who make a living from selling artisanal bags in New York or anywhere else in the world, and it is indisputable that the popularity of men’s bags has contributed to a richer world of accessory options for us. Nevertheless, until we change our displays of social status through fashion and accessories and choose to have a limited choice of just a few bags that fit all purposes, there is nothing worse for fashion and for nature than being ostentatiously environmentally friendly.
Every single trade fair or product launch now comes with goodie tote bags made out of jute or cotton. Years after the Hindmarch phenomenon, the reasoning remains that anything is better than plastic. However, consumers tend to forget that the production of many of these bags can be highly damaging to the environment. In the vast majority of cases, the ink used 65
Thom B rowne
T erritory It has been argued that putting on a suit can bring out any man’s more formal, gentlemanly side. For those of us on whom this notion fits – i.e. for those of us who suddenly walk considerably taller and start articulating a lot as soon as the blazer steps into character – there was a time when suits seemed like a daunting no-man’s-land of adult expectations, responsibilities and everything else worth rebelling against. When Thom Browne came along and introduced the menswear world to his new era of suits, this rebellion was quenched. “I think balance is very much part of the Thom Browne DNA: the balance of seriousness with a sense of humour. Even my basic suits, it’s about having them made in a very serious high-quality tailoring way, but the silhouette makes it quite unique,” Mr Browne says with the sort of eloquence expected of the person who created the polished geek neo-gentleman. Of course ‘neo-gentleman’ is simply one of those fashion words used to describe a phenomenon, which already exists but has been improved considerably and in a modern way by our newest prodigy. And as far as fashion goodwill goes, the industry’s esteem of Thom Browne is as high as his reported Bergdorf sales figures. With a list of fashion heroes that includes “Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, Christian Dior and Coco Chanel”, Browne has created a signature so distinct and yet so comfortably familiar that the dapper, fashion-conscious man of the new era of masculinity is given no other choice than to embrace him. Photos by Chris Craymer Styling Toby Grimditch Interview Text by Anders Christian Madsen Thom Browne Spring/Summer Collection 2011
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This is the Thom Browne effect...
Varon speaks to Thom Browne in December 2010, few months after his triumphant entry onto the Paris Fashion Week menswear schedule. “I am very excited to be part of Paris’ men’s fashion week. It gives me a great challenge, as the expectations are definitely higher here. At the same time, I think the audience who come to Paris Fashion Week may have a better understanding of what I do. This transition to Paris was also important from a business perspective as it allows me to sell earlier and most importantly to a wider range of stores that may not come to New York,” Browne says so modestly of his move, which was – on an editor’s note – perhaps the most exciting menswear event of 2010. The response to his elaborate, cleverly conceptual show and the spring/summer 2011 collection – a response which can best be described as an odd sort of church-like fashion industry rejoicing – included written-for-quoting review lines (looking at you, Adam Tschorn at the LA Times) such as “Thom Browne didn’t just debut his eponymous men’s-wear line here at Paris Fashion Week, he picked their pockets, cleaned their clocks, ate their collective lunches and ushered in the new era of the American designers’ dominance,” and countless other Hallelujah-like ripostes. This is the Thom Browne effect.
perhaps most important factor in the success of Thom Browne: his understanding of showmanship and how to be funny within the cold walls of the icy fortress of fashion. (Without being judged and getting Mean Girl stares, mind you.) “It starts with this ‘basic’ suit, but the idea is to provoke people by showing how far I can push the boundaries of what is accepted as ‘conventional’, or masculine. I want to show that you can do innovative clothing and still be masculine,” Browne explains. Humour in fashion is a funny thing. At some dreadfully dull point in time, the industry decided it was not to be taken lightheartedly or made fun of in any way, and most designers – or indeed pop stars – who dared to smile along the way were either banished from the self-important playground of the fashionably austere, or the pretentious powers-that-be quickly decided that what they did was not to be seen as ‘fun’ but as ‘art’, making it okay. You don’t laugh in art either, you know. So Browne’s accomplishment is not just the fact that he has made the suit cool again. It’s that he has taken the scariest, most formal and humourless article of men’s clothing, made it cool and used it to bring a speck of fun back into fashion. He doesn’t believe in designers over-interpreting their own work. When the question is posed to him if he’s rebelling against the current tendency for designers to over-imbue meanings into their collections, he swiftly replies: “Yes, exactly! It’s about having a sense of humour, having wit.” Of his own sense of humour he dryly comments: “I may be serious, but I do like to have fun too.” One only has to pay a brief visit to the video archives of Thom Browne shows to get his point: boys circling around candelabra-adorned dining table, boys parading down grass-clad tennis court catwalk, boys strolling down pretend-beach in surfer formalwear. One of them was wearing a Clockwork Orange cup, even. Of course a fashion psychologist would credit Browne’s past life as an aspiring actor for his ability to put a smile on the faces of fashion’s culture snobs.
“In this particular case, the space had a big impact on me,” Browne says of his spring/summer 2011 show, held at the Communist Party headquarters in Paris. “I had a collection designed, and I was very mindful of the fact that this was going to be my first show in Paris – although I also had the fortune to show in Florence for Pitti Immagine – but once I saw this building and interior designed by Oscar Niemeyer, I just knew that this had to be the place. Hence the choreography and adding the space suits with helmets were conceived, because the ‘conference’ room reminded me of a spaceship. And yet, it also had a very modernist aesthetic,” comments Browne. With its entertainment value bordering on gimmicky show tactics but always balanced with sophistication and never to the point of tastelessness, the spring/ summer 2011 show was a perfect Paris-i-fied reflection of the 69
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“If there is any connection to my being an actor before and what I do now, it would be in how I present my collections. The spirit of entertaining”
“If there is any connection to my being an actor before and what I do now, it would be in how I present my collections. The spirit of entertaining,” Browne says. “How my shows are presented, everything from the venue or the feeling of the venue, the choreography, the music, all of these elements are very important and speak to the overall theme and concept I have for each of the collections. In the past, in New York, I would often create the setting,” he notes, spoken like a true entertainer. And it was indeed with this point of departure that Browne’s label came to be. Whilst giving acting a try in Los Angeles in the early 1990s – needless to say, he looks very much the actor part: strong jaw, cheekbones, dark and handsome etcetera – Browne dabbled in vintage clothes modification; a pastime which would eventually overshadow his stage dreams and take him to New York. “Several years after I went out to LA to try acting, and I realised that acting was not going to work out, the first job I found was in fashion,” Browne says and continues: “Although what I did then is very different from what I do now.” It was the late 1990s and what he did was Club Monaco, a label owned by one Mr Ralph Lauren, who ultimately gave Browne a designer position at said label, paving the way for his eponymous era. In 2001, he founded Thom Browne. “When I was a kid, I didn’t even know that there was such a profession as a clothing designer,” Browne says. “I grew up with six brothers and sisters, who are all lawyers except for my youngest sister, who is a doctor.”
for our best in everything we did. Since I grew up with many brothers and sisters, we all pretty much wore the same thing: a navy blue blazer with grey flannel trousers in the winter or khaki trousers in the summer,” Browne recalls, evoking immediate images of the type of garments whose reinvention he’s since become famous for. Like Browne’s traditional American upbringing, his creative signature lies within the suited-up frames of American perfection; where through the 1980s and 1990s, Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren milked preppy Connecticut for all it was worth and put it on a trend wagon from the upper to the lower classes and back again, the work of Browne displays his unique, modern take on perfect America circa right now. It is far from the flamboyant, foppish menswear of certain European catwalks, and something quite different from the slick, severe dark armies of certain other European catwalks, all at once. If anything, it is a return to something old but in a new way. Something less showy, less obvious, yet still somewhat outré. “Conservative or ‘toned down’ styles does not necessarily mean that it has to be boring. But I think what is more important is about being tasteful and also making sure that the ‘fit’ is right,” Browne notes. His own look is flawless. Rumour has it Browne always has the same for breakfast and always gets just one drink after work. He has a degree in economics. He was on the swim team at university. And in a sort of Pete Campbell of Mad Men merged with a charming version of Patrick Bateman of American Psycho kind of way, Browne seems to be that perfect New Yorker who’s not supposed to exist in real life. He gives soundbyte such as: “I myself pretty much wear the same thing every day: a grey
Of his childhood in Allentown, Pennsylvania, Browne comments to no further extent than: “I was a very normal kid from an Irish American Catholic family. All of us played some sort of sport. We were very competitive and were encouraged to strive
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“For me my collections and how I show them is about being provocative, but to me it has nothing to do with being straight or gay. It’s more about making people think.”
suit with a white cotton Oxford cloth shirt, a grey tie and a pair of black Wingtip shoes,” and when you ask him where he’ll be when he’s ninety he tells you he’ll be in a box in that same grey suit. (No, really. He did.) His show casting is as magnificent as it is eminent. But contrary to the obsessive model mania practised by a number of his menswear industry colleagues, Browne is hardly a devotee of the world of models: “I don’t follow Models. com and I actually don’t really look at fashion magazines all that much. I try to cast the show according to the concept and the theme.” Yet, the Thom Browne models are some of the most distinct – and most celebrated – in the industry, and walking a Thom Browne show is as good as a gold star on a young man’s portfolio.
(for Thom Browne, that is) – he’s also rather fond of a dash of Moncler and perhaps a bit of Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; collections both designed by Browne. “I really enjoy the collaboration with Moncler, just as I enjoy the one for Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Both companies entrust in me with a lot of freedom, but it’s about designing a collection that incorporates well within their respective brand identities too. I’ve always had great respect for each of these companies, so I feel very fortunate that these collaborations came about,” Browne says. These days you aren’t really a designer unless you do three collections a season, anyway. But for Browne it doesn’t stop at that. Last season he launched his first womenswear collection, which quickly got tongues rolling that Browne wouldn’t be a far-fetched potential to climb the thrown Chanel one day.
All this precision, sharpness and perfection and you begin to wonder if being a Thom Browne man is even a half-attainable objective. But it is. If you ask the designer how old his customer is – or even how heavy – he won’t lie to you and tell you that his notion of the ideal Thom Browne clientele is an all-embracing concept. “Thom Browne may not be for everyone, but I don’t think it’s about the actual age or sizes of the person. It’s more about the person’s individuality and confidence,” he explains. Browne doesn’t have a corporeal muse – “I don’t have a particular person in mind. But someone who is confident and is a true individual,” he says – and he’s bored with labels and boxes: “For me my collections and how I show them is about being provocative, but to me it has nothing to do with being straight or gay. It’s more about making people think.” And so the Browne man is established: he is the thinking man. Of course the Browne man doesn’t just do his thinking wearing Thom Browne
In these times of models becoming actors, actors becoming designers and designers becoming directors, it would be wrong not to ask Thom Browne – his past career path taken into consideration – if this is the way he’s headed, too. What is his view on Tom Ford? “I, of course, respect and appreciate what Tom Ford does. I cannot predict or plan that much ahead about what I will do, but certainly if there was an opportunity, I would say never say never,” says Browne. For the moment, though, Browne is content with real-life storytelling through his visually – and to a certain extent, cinematic – work. The Thom Browne man plays out his part in the real world. And you could almost be tempted to say that Browne is his costume designer. Just think what Wall Street will look like once they’ve had their Thom Browne costume fittings.
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Model: AJ Abualrub (Nevs)
St yl ZIP e A -A-D na EE lys -DO is O-D AH
The simple act of raising and lowering a zipper can either reveal or conceal what lies beneath. Invented for the sake of convenience, the zipper was used primarily to enclose tobacco pouches and as a fastener for rubber boots. Only in the 1930's did the zipper begin to appear on pants, dresses, and other articles of clothing. Catalyzed by the 80's punk revolution, zippers have evolved into an object commonly used to adorn clothes and accessories - beyond the practical use of fastening.
Photos Lonny Spence Styling Hugo LavĂn
Trousers by Tim Soar and T-shirt by American Apparel Previous page Sweater by YMC, and T-Shirt by American Apparel.
Trench coat by Lanvin and t-shirt by American Apparel. Model - John Alexander Skelton
new essentials Photos by Paul Maffi Styling by Tom Van DorpE
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Shirt and sleeveless jacket by YSL, cumberband by Early Halloween and shorts by Yigal Azrouel. Previous Page Shirt and blouse by Prada, jacket by Lanvin and shorts by ZZegna.
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Jacket by Tom Ford, shirt by Raf Simons, tank top by Bottega Veneta and pants by Dries Van Noten
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Jacket by Dries Van Noten, shirt by Dolce & Gabbana, tie by Early Halloween, cufflinks by Ferragamo. and pants by Lanvin.
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Opposite Page Jacket and shirt by Lanvin, pants by Gucci, shoes by Raf Simons and tie by Early Halloween.
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Collar/shirt by YSL, sweater by 3.1 Phillip Lim, shorts by Yigal Azrouel, socks by Falke and shoes by Raf Simons. Opposite Page Shirt by Dolce & Gabbana, vest by Salvatore Ferragamo and jeans by Dries Van Noten.
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Shirt, tie, and denim top by Prada. Opposite Page Shirt by Raf Simons, top by Burberry Prorsum, long coat by 3.1 Phillip Lim and pants by Gucci.
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Grooming - Kristin Gallegos at Community NYC Stylist Assistant -Karen Wisdon and Erin Sullivan Model - Mathias Laurisden (New York Models)
City Nomad Photos BY Chris Craymer Styling By Toby Grimditch
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Suit by Calvin Klein, shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, socks by Falke and shoes by Nike Previous Page Knit jumper dress by Thom Browne, socks by Falke and sneakers by Nike. Cover Page Coat by Thom Browne, t-shirt on head by Calvin Klein. Opposite Page Coat by Prada.
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Total look by Thom Browne.
Opposite page Suit and turtleneck by Hermès, socks by Falke and shoes by Nike.
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Knit Hood by Lanvin and Full Length Leather Coat by Calvin Klein Collection. Previous Page Coat and knit belt by Lanvin and t-shirt by Calvin Klein.
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Coat by Thom Browne. Previous page Shirt by Gianfranco Ferre, jeans by Lee, belt by Ralph Lauren and sunglasses by Police.
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Coat by Marc Jacobs, hoodie by American Apparel. Previous page Sweater by Marni, pants and chaps by Comme Des Garรงons, socks by Falke and shoes by Nike.
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Sweater by Gianfranco Ferre. Opposite page Coat by Marc Jacobs, jeans by Lee, shirt by Gianfranco Ferre, sunglasses by Police, socks by Falke, shoes by Nike.
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Digital Imaging - Alex Dow Digital Retouching - Oznur Kuzu Photography Assistant - Tom Schirmacher Fashion Assistant - Catlin Myers Fashion Assistant - Sadira Benge Hair - Stylist Shin Arima at Frank Reps, using Redken Makeup - Stylist Chiho Omae at Frank Reps Model Yuri @ FM Models Special thanks to: Madeleine Ostlie, Adam Winder, Spencer Barksdale, Stephen Jolliffe @ FM, Yuri Gaspard @ Request Models NYC, Mari Fujiuchi.
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working class Photos Nik Hartley Styling Hugo LavĂn
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Suit by Lanvin, shirt by Whillas and Gunn and boots by Dr. Martens. Opening Page Jacket by Dover Street Market, shirt by Percival, trousers by Miharayasuhiro, boots by YMC, bag and belt vintage. Previous Page Trousers by Peter Jensen, jacket by BStore, boots by YMC and bag - vintage.
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Waistcoat and shirt by Whillas and Gunn, trousers by Gstar - Marc Newson and boots by Dr. Martens. Previous Page Jacket by BStore and vintage bag.
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Shirt by Armand Basi Opposite Page Trousers and mini skirt by Lou Dalton, shirt by Percival, boots by YMC and vintage Bag.
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Suit by Tim Soar, shirt by Whillas and Gunn, trousers by Percival and boots by Dr. Martens. Previous Page Jacket by John Varvatos, trousers by Roberto Cavalli, belt by Prada and notebook by Paul Smith. Grooming - Natsumi at Caren.co.uk Photo assistant - Will Corry Styling assistant - John Alexander Skelton Model - Tom Lander (Select)
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Photography by Lonny Spence Styling by Shirley Amartey
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White shirt by Fred Perry and black leather jacket by Joe Casely Hayford. Opposite Page Gilet and trousers Raf by Raf Simons and shirt by Fred Perry. Opening Photo Sunglasses by Cutler and Gross.
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Coat by Burberry Prorsum, nylon bib Raf by Raf Simons, plaid shirt by James Small, brogues by Tricker's, socks by Falke and long johns by JW Anderson.
Shirt and jumper by Prada. Opposite Page Hooded rain coat jacket, trousers, belt and gloves by Lanvin. Gingham shirt by Rokit, shoes by Miharayasuhiro, cap by Beyond Retro and earring by The Only Son.
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Black leather double breasted jacket by Acne, jumper and jeans by Tim Soar, boots by Beyond Retro and socks by Falke.
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Coat by Dior Homme, earring by The Only Son. Previous page
Black leather double breasted jacket by Acne. Jumper jeans by Tim Soar.
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Quilted jacket by Raf by Raf Simons and jumper by Acne. Opposite page Checked shirt by Miharayasuhiro. Grooming - Halley Brissker Photo assistant - Ronan Gallagher Stylist Assistant - Tony Cook Model - Louis Yearwood (D1)
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Addresses acnestudios.com americanapparel.net armandbasi.com beyondretro.com bstorelondon.com bottegaveneta.com burberry.com calvinklein.com casely-hayford.com cutlerandgross.com diorhomme.com dolcegabbana.com doverstreetmarket.com driesvannoten.be drmartens.com earlyhalloween.com falke.com ferragamo.com filson.com fredperry.com gianfrancoferre.com g-star.com gucci.com hermes.com jamessmall.com johnvarvatos.com j-w-anderson.com lanvin.com lee.com loudalton.com marcjacobs.com marni.com miharayasuhiro.jp nike.com odinnewyork.com openingceremony.us paulsmith.co.uk percivalclo.com peterjensen.co.uk police.it prada.com rafbyrafsimons.com rafsimons.com ralphlauren.com robertocavalli.com rokit.co.uk soar-london.com theonlyson.com thombrowne.com tomford.com trickers.com uniqlo.com whillasandgunn.com yigal-azrouel.com youmustcreate.com ysl.com 31philliplim.com zzegna.com