Issue 1
Va r s i t y
2012
The Annual Archive
A bo
VARSITY London is fashion's first collections magazine solely dedica Fashion graduates from Central Saint Martins, the Royal College of A publication which aims to provide comprehensive coverage of the gr
London has established itself as the city to watch for the next wave o and the London College of Fashion represent the top tier of MA Fash
The labour force provided by London's MA Fashion programmes is, emphasis on the 'new' and, therefore, will always look towards its ne thing that heritage brands can never be: new.
Through supplying yearly crops of new talent, in terms of ideas and legitimise London's fashionability. The legitimised fashionability of L definitive role within London's field of fashion, a position typically o
VARSITY London provides exclusive access to the freshest crop of Lo (All rights reserved by the original authors.)
Megan Wray Schertler, Editor
JT Yea Designe
out
Va r s i t y
ated to London's emerging talent. Showcasing the work of MA Art and the London College of Fashion, VARSITY London is the only raduates' collections, talent and process.
of fashion designers. Central Saint Martins, the Royal College of Art hion programmes, not just in London but across the globe.
perhaps, its most valuable asset. Fashion's cyclical nature places ew subscribers for affirmation. London has monopolised the one
in terms of sheer labour, London's MA Fashion programmes London's top three MA Fashion programs positions them in a occupied by the established design houses in rival fashion cities.
ondon's fashion design talent, showcasing fashion's future stars now.
an, er
Shiho Yokoyama, Designer
Va r I nd
2012
C C
S
R M
Anne Karine Thorbjornsen Charlotte Helyar Ching Man Wu Craig Green Erna Einarsdottir Estefania Cortes-Harker Helen Lawrence Hellen Van Rees Hiroko Nakajima Jessie Hands John-Gabriel Harrison Kenji Kawasumi Luke Brooks Malene List Thomsen Mei Lim-Cooper Petra Metzger Ratna Ho Sabina Bryntesson Timur Kim Yifang Wan Yong Kyun Shin Yulia Kondranina
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R
C
Alex M Alexande Alexande Apu Benedicte Claire Colette Ve Daniel Hiroaki Holly R Ichiro S Julia Ida M Lorren J Lucy Ha Peiran Peter B Rachel Rachae Rajinde Rebecca Rebecca T Ryan M Samantha Shubha Trine Hav C Zac Ma
sity dex
Index
R
C
Mullins er James er Lamb Jan Holmboe e Zeng Vermeulen Pollitt i Kanai Russell Suzuki Mackenroth Johnson ammond n Gong Bailey Chan el Hall er Johal a Neary Thomson Mercer a Bushell am Jain Christensen arshall
L A
L
C
Alexandra Fenzl Anya Kamarek Arena Page Asger Juel Larsen Byungmun Seo Kay Kwok Manish Bansal May Tang Min Jeong Ko Ming-Pin Tien Minja el Hage Pantong Rahull Verma Sumyu Li Tina Elisabeth Reiter Xianfen Gu Yao Zhang Yidan Liang
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F
Va r
RCA
A lex M
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Alex Mullins
Mullins
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
A lexand
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Alexander James
der James
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
A lexander Lamb Royal College of Art
PHOTOGRAPHY Saga Sig MODEL Emmanuel Lawal
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Alexander Lamb
Va r
RCA
A lexand
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
der
lege of Art
Alexander Lamb
Lamb
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
A l e x a n dr a F e n z l London College of Fashion
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Alexandra Fenzl
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“The collection consists of a few traditional Bavarian crafts such as hand knitted socks in different traditional Bavarian patterns and natural materials such as wool, organic cotton, raffia and wood. A Polaroid of a wheat field taken by photographer Rhiannon Adams was the basis for a digital print I used on different fabrics.�
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Alexandra Fenzl
Va r s i t y
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LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Alexandra Fenzl
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LCF
Va r s i t y
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Alexandra Fenzl
Va r
CSM
A nne K arine
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Anne Karine Thorbjornsen
Thorbjornsen
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r s i t y
A nya K amarek London College of Fashion
Va r s i t y
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Anya Kamarek
Va r s i t y
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LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Anya Kamarek
Anya Kamarek
Va r s i t y
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LCF
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A pu Jan Royal College of Art
PHOTOGRAPHY Takahito Sasaki HAIR Tomo Yuki MAKEUP Jennifer Mika Avins
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Apu Jan
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Apu Jan
Apu Jan
Va r s i t y
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RCA
RCA
Varr ss iittyy Va
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Apu Jan
Va r s i t y
A r e na Page London College of Fashion
LCF
Varr ss iittyy Va
“My collection is inspired by the single sided surface (The Mobius Strip) through the study of Topology. Exploring the region between art and mathematics and finding beauty in geometry. I used computer technology for a new approach to design. Complex, minimal surfaces were generated using a 3D modelling computer program to which a ‘ flattening’ process was applied. The flat 2D patterns transferred to paper and fabric for further manipulation and experimentation in relation to the body. The experimental process essentially designed the collection.”
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Arena Page
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Va r s i t y
Asger Juel Larsen London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Alex Harley
LCF
Va Varrssi ittyy
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Asger Juel Larsen
Va r
LCF
Asger Jue
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
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Asger Juel Larsen
sity
el
Larsen
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
RCA
Benedicte
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
e
Benedicte Holmboe
Holmboe
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
B y u ngm u n S e o London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Dohyung Lee
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Byungmun Seo
Byungmun Seo
Va r s i t y
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LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Byungmun Seo
Va r
LCF
Byungm
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
“I always enjoy a process making a story and theory in my perspective after th create my own identity and look. For my 2012 A/W collection, I perceived new imagination. Each garment pattern can be seen in an unexpected place that d wanted to derive a beauty aroused by unexpected and unfamiliar me 51
sity
mun
Byungmun Seo
Seo
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
hen, develop it into fashion design. This is because I think it is an only way to w characteristics of pattern cutting to find another self of garment pattern in my oes not belong to them creating new silhouette and meaning. With this idea, I eeting of garment pattern with new construction of pattern cutting.� 52
Va r s i t y
Charlotte Helyar Central Saint Martins
PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Wray Schertler
CSM
Va r s i t y
Charlotte Helyar
“I think of myself as a print designer first and foremost. But print on a figure, on a body just seemed more exciting to me than doing flat textile design. Before doing the MA, I had started experimenting with 3D prints so I really just wanted to explore that with my graduate collection. But to explore and push the effect of digital print using a more traditional craftsman’s technique. It’s really difficult to get the print to be as accurate. So it’s all been about figuring out that process.”
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Charlotte Helyar
Va r s i t y
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
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Charlotte Helyar
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CSM
Va r s i t y
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Charlotte Helyar
Ching M an Wu Central Saint Martins
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CSM
Va r s i t y
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Ching Man Wu
Ching Man Wu
Va r s i t y
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CSM
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Va r
RCA
Claire
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
e
Claire Zeng
Zeng
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
Colette V
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Colette Vermeulen
Vermeulen
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Craig Green Central Saint Martins
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CSM
Va r s i t y
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Craig Green
Craig Green
Va r s i t y
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
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Craig Green
Craig Green
Va r s i t y
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
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Craig Green
Craig Green
Va r s i t y
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
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Craig Green
Va r s i t y
Daniel Pollitt Royal College of Art
PHOTOGRAPHY Saga Sig MODEL Natasia Ohl @ Union Models HAIR Silvia Salemo @ Sassoon MAKEUP Lynsey Alexander, Dean Rudd & Cher Web MAKEUP ASSISTANTS Ashley Manwaring, Gemma Tyler & Liz Payne
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Daniel Pollitt
Va r
RCA
Daniel
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Daniel Pollitt
Pollitt
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
CSM
Erna Eina
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Erna Einarsdottir
arsdottir
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
CSM
Estefania Cor
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
ortes-
int Martins
Estefania Cortes-Harker
Harker
PHY Catwalking
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Va r s i t y
Helen Lawrence Central Saint Martins
PHOTOGRAPHY Kodi Chen Barbachano
Va r s i t y
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CSM
Va r s i t y
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Helen Lawrence
Va r
CSM
Hellen V
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Hellen Van Rees
Van Rees
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Hiroaki K anai Royal College of Art
PHOTOGRAPHY Mitsuaki Murata LOOKBOOK Mayaso Matsuda
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Hiroaki Kanai
Va r s i t y
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RCA
RCA
Hiroaki Kanai
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Hiroaki Kanai
Va r
RCA
Hiroaki
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
i
Hiroaki Kanai
K anai
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
Hiroko Nakajima Central Saint Martins
PHOTOGRAPHY Nicole Maria Walker
CSM
Varr ss iittyy Va
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Hiroko Nakajima
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Hiroko Nakajima
Va r s i t y
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CSM
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Va r
RCA
Holly R
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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Holly Russell
Russell
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Ichiro Suzuki Royal College of Art
PHOTOGRAPHY Kodai
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RCA
Va r s i t y
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Ichiro Suzuki
Ichiro Suzuki
Va r s i t y
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RCA
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Ichiro Suzuki
Va r s i t y
113
RCA
RCA
Va r s i t y
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Ichiro Suzuki
Va r
CSM
Jessie H
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Jessie Hands
Hands
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
CSM
John-Gabrie
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
el
John-Gabriel Harrison
Harrison
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
RCA
Julia Ida M
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Julia Ida Mackenroth
M ackenroth
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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K ay Kwok London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Daniel James & Julian Gregory
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LCF
Va r s i t y
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Kay Kwok
Kay Kwok
Va r s i t y
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LCF
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Kay Kwok
Va r s i t y
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LCF
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Va r
CSM
K enji K
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
“I wanted to make something special but for people still to my clothes so I can think of it differently. I wanted to fill th that is accessible. I’m interested in the concept of augmented 127
sity
Kenji Kawasumi
awasumi
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
be able to wear the clothes. With menswear, it’s going to be he gap between really unique, special clothes and something reality, of the idea of nature but manipulated or recreated.� 128
Va r
RCA
Lorren
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
“Inspiration for my collection has come from a photographe Hamptons’ in POP magazine. The girls were wearing men’s this with some ideas from my pre-collection which was 129
sity
Lorren Johnson
Johnson
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
er called Tyrone Lebon who did a shoot called ‘Snoop in the clothing and styled to look like Snoop Dogg. I also combined inspired by Lego and led to the colourful digital print.� 130
Va r
RCA
Lucy Hamm
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
131
sity
Lucy Hammond
ammond
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
132
Va r
CSM
Luke B
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Luke Brooks
Brooks
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
CSM
Luke B
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Luke Brooks
Brooks
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
136
Va r
CSM
M alene Lis
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
st
Malene List Thomsen
Thomsen
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
138
Va r s i t y
M anish B an sal London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Sukriti PHOTOGRAPHIC ASSISTANT Fen Newman HAIR & GROOMING Kenny Leung STYLIST Manish Bansal STYLIST ASSISTANT Santiago Romero MODELS Primo Baker & Benjamin Warbis @ Premier Model Management
LCF
Varr ss iittyy Va
Manish Bansal
“Somewhere between assimilating in a new contrasting culture and keeping my work visa viable through various jobs, I felt I could not achieve my full creative potential and missed out on working in a forward-thinking fashion environment. This course gave me the opportunity to achieve the fine-tuning of my skills for research, together with the creative resilience necessary to produce an iconic label and to run a strong brand.�
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Manish Bansal
Va r s i t y
141
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
142
Manish Bansal
Manish Bansal
Va r s i t y
143
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
144
Manish Bansal
Va r
LCF
M ay T
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
“Bone goes through the whole body giv muscles, it holds the body balance and m be seen in both micro and macr 145
sity
May Tang
Tang
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
ving support and protection. With the movement. Its delicate construction can ro ways. Every detail is crucial� 146
Va r
CSM
Mei Lim-
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
147
sity
Mei Lim-Cooper
m-Cooper
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
148
Min Jeong Ko London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Doh Lee
149
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Min Jeong Ko
Min Jeong Ko
Va r s i t y
151
LCF
152
Min Jeong Ko
Va r s i t y
153
LCF
154
Va r s i t y
Ming-Pin Tien London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Kamil Szkopik HAIR & MAKEUP Pace Chen
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Ming-Pin Tien
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LCF
Va r s i t y
Ming-Pin Tien
“The collection is named “Metaphorical Distance”, which is transforming the secrecy onto the body language/self protection. The secrecy is the crucial element of my collection is because I have made an assumption that everyone has his own secrets that he doesn’t wish to share. The secrets can be big or small, the main point is the fact that people would rather keep them in instead of sharing. And when people stay in this state for a while, the secrets can starts to eat the individual from inside. It might causes loneliness, anger or solitude, whatever it is, the individual has been traumatised, which leads them to a state that having a conflict in between hiding their secrets and revealing them. Because after all, people want to be understood by the others around them, and hopefully though the process, could get rid of the self-isolation.”
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Ming-Pin Tien
Va r s i t y
159
LCF
160
Va r s i t y
Minja el Hage London College of Fashion
LCF
Va r s i t y
Minja el Hage
“The western feminist vision would say that there is an islamisation of western society and a fear that has been created by terrorism since 9/11. Middle-eastern feminist would express their liberty through their religious beliefs. The law against the Burqa put into force by the French government (André Guérin, 11th April 2011) exemplifies well this misunderstanding between the two feminist ideologies. Indeed it prohibits any clothing that would “disguise her face” in a public space. In reality, it is a way to protect a lay French society from Islamic religious beliefs. My collection aims to demonstrate this gap between a modern and a traditional way of dressing.”
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Minja el Hage
Va r s i t y
163
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Minja el Hage
Pantong London College of Fashion
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LCF
Va r s i t y
166
Pantong
Pantong
Va r s i t y
167
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
168
Pantong
Va r
RCA
Peiran
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
n
Peiran Gong
Gong
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
Peter B
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
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sity
Peter Bailey
Bailey
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
Petra Metzger Central Saint Martins
CSM
Varr ss iittyy Va
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Petra Metzger
Va r
CSM
“I think for me it’s important to step back and say ‘what’s mine?’, ‘what’s my direction’?”
Petra M
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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Petra Metzger
sity
“What I would like to get across now is a strong attitude and a strong statement.�
Metzger
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
RCA
R achel
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
177
sity
l
Rachel Chan
Chan
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
R achae
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
179
sity
el
Rachael Hall
Hall
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
R ahull Verma London College of Fashion
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LCF
Va r s i t y
182
Rahull Verma
Rahull Verma
Va r s i t y
183
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Rahull Verma
Rahull Verma
Va r s i t y
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LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Rahull Verma
Va r
RCA
R ajinde
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
187
sity
Rajinder Johal
er Johal
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r s i t y
R atna Ho Central Saint Martins
PHOTOGRAPHY Pascal Mulder
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CSM
Va r s i t y
190
Ratna Ho
Ratna Ho
Varr ss iittyy Va
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
192
Ratna Ho
Ratna Ho
Va r s i t y
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CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
194
Ratna Ho
Va r
RCA
Rebecca
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
195
sity
a
Rebecca Neary
Neary
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
Rebecca T
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
197
sity
Rebecca Thomson
Thomson
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Va r
RCA
Ryan M
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
199
sity
Ryan Mercer
Mercer
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Sabina Bryntesson Central Saint Martins
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CSM
Va r s i t y
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Sabina Bryntesson
Sabina Bryntesson
Va r s i t y
203
CSM
CSM
Va r s i t y
204
Sabina Bryntesson
Va r
CSM
Sabina Br
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
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sity
Sabina Bryntesson
ryntesson
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
RCA
Samantha
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
207
sity
a
Samantha Bushell
Bushell
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
208
Va r
RCA
Shubham Royal Col
PHOTOGRAP
209
sity
Shubham Jain
am Jain lege of Art
PHY Alan Parker
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Sumyu Li London College of Fashion
CONCEPT & LOOKBOOK Fernando Lessa
211
LCF
Va r s i t y
212
Sumyu Li
Sumyu Li
Va r s i t y
213
LCF
LCF
Va Varrssi ittyy
214
Sumyu Li
Va r
LCF
Sumy
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
215
sity
yu
Sumyu Li
Li
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
216
Va r
CSM
Timur
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
“There was no idea or specific decision at the begin wanted to express the denim workwear fabric throug liked that fabric. It grew into the denim and crushed 217
sity
r
Timur Kim
Kim
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
nning of this collection. It all came very natural. I gh something sophisticated and lux. I’ve always really d velvet combinations – all a sort of transformation.” 218
Va r s i t y
Tina Elisabeth Reiter London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Jayden Tang HAIR & MAKEUP Pei Chen FOOTWEAR (& DUNGAREES) Elin Melin MODELS Paul Farley & Jaco Norman @ Select Model
LCF
Varr ss iittyy Va
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Tina Elisabeth Reiter
Tina Elisabeth Reiter
Va r s i t y
221
LCF
222
“The collection has taken the heritage of the Austrian folk costume including its tradition and fused it with aesthetics of modern menswear. Extracting traditional techniques and silhouettes fitting it into a contemporary context is a unique way of staying true to my own roots. Nourished by the wish of an ideal world which is forever connected with the myth of the alps, the kitschy homeland movies of the Austrian postwar years and the world famous musical ‘The Sound of Music’.”
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Tina Elisabeth Reiter
Va r s i t y
225
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
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Tina Elisabeth Reiter
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Va r
RCA
Trine Hav C
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
229
sity
Trine Hav Christensen
Christensen
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
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Xianfen Gu London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Shawn Chen
231
LCF
Va Varrssi ittyy
232
Xianfen Gu
Xianfen Gu
Va r s i t y
“Initially, the concept was created by a sandglass of dynamic textures. The research focused on an exploration of dynamic texture on sand garments. The concentration emphasized the correspondence between the garment and the movement of the human body.�
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LCF
234
235
236
Va r
RCA
Xianf
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
237
sity
fen
Xianfen Gu
Gu
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
238
Va r s i t y
Yao Zhang London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY Vincent Cui MAKEUP Ann Lee
LCF
Varr ss iittyy Va
240
Yao Zhang
Yao Zhang
Va r s i t y
241
LCF
242
Yao Zhang
243
244
Va r
CSM
Yao Z
London Colle
PHOTOGRAP
245
sity
Yao Zhang
Zhang
ege of Fashion
PHY Catwalking
246
Va r s i t y
Yidan Liang London College of Fashion
PHOTOGRAPHY IM Studio HAIR Yau Yeung Liu MAKEUP Pin Hua Liu Model Chanie Munn
LCF
Varr ss iittyy Va
“The inspiration for this collection came from coincidence, synchronicity. It is believed that a series of events happen at the same time and these events were attracted by human’s inner thoughts, therefore, it is not a coincidence. Therefore, This project aims to focus on the perception of synchronicity and how garments related to inner mind (subconscious) and divination. Meanwhile, interpret these elements by using different fabric, combination of colour and special pattern cutting.�
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Yidan Liang
Yidan Liang
Va r s i t y
249
LCF
LCF
Va r s i t y
250
Yidan Liang
Yidan Liang
Va r s i t y
251
LCF
252
Va r
CSM
Yifang
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
253
sity
g
Yifang Wan
Wan
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
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Va r
CSM
Yong Ky
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
255
sity
yun
int Martins
Yong Kyun Shin
Shin
PHY Catwalking
256
Va r
CSM
Yulia Kon
Central Sai
PHOTOGRAP
257
sity
Yulia Kondranina
ndranina
int Martins
PHY Catwalking
258
Va r
RCA
Zac M a
Royal Coll
PHOTOGRAPHY
259
sity
Zac Marshall
arshall
lege of Art
Y Dominic Tschudin
260
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Please contact us directly at varsitylondo
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