DI VINE MAK EUP TRICK S ABJECT ART DEEP DI VE METAPHYSICAL POETRY
JUNE 2020 HOROSCOPE
INTERVIEW WI TH THE FILTHIEST WOMAN IN HISTORY
DI VINE LEGACY
Divine, Harris Glenn Milstead, was an american Drag queen, actor and singer. She is famously known for her role in the movie Pink Flamingoes where she plays Divine ‘The FIlthiest Woman Alive’, the movie is directed by John Waters.
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Q Q Q
Cheri: Do you consider yourself kinky? Divine Hush! You’ll give me a bad name. (Laughs) What does it mean to be kinky, anyhow? HaHAAAAhaaaa HAAAAhaa! Dahrling. Oh God...anything out of the normal. Then again, I’mno authority. [Divine winks... we all laugh...] One on the top and one on the bottom. That’s what they mean by normal, isn’t it? Did you ever think of having a sex change? NOOOOO! Really, I’mquite content the way I am. I heard some stories about you... (Interrupts) LIES! LIES! ALLFUCKINGLIES! [Divine is really getting, to say the least, dramatic—and it’s a scream. He pounds his forehead.] Why must they always tell those horrible stories about me? [He winks.] What did you hear? Oh, Provincetown...
Q Q Q
Oh, I had a place, a store—you know, a sort of boutique—called DIVINETRASH. We sold old shit. I mean [gracious voice] antique clothing. Well, I guess I am, a-hem, a very loose, ha-ha, person. But I’mnot quite as loose as SOMEpeople seemto think. If I were that loose, I’d be in jail or put away somewhere—that’s for sure. Where do you live? Well, I’mon the road so much that it hardly matters, but I guess you could say New York. I like the West Coast, and I’mnot comparing it to New York because you can’t, but New York is really the only place you can live and be accepted. Do you like to travel? Well.. sometimes. But it’s part of my job, so that’s it. . Howdo people react to you in small towns, like in the South or the Midwest? People in the Midwest are very cool, blasé towards me. Everyone was very nice to me when I drove through Texas, even the truckers at those little rest stops. Surprisingly enough, it’s New York where people show the strongest reaction. I remember one time I went to a feast in Little Italy, you know? Yeah, like a San Gennaro, or something. Yes. And everyone thought I was Nero...
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GET THE LOOK
Mary Kay Blush, Juicy peach/papaye €16,90
Maybelline Wateproof liquid liner €7,20
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PLATONICK LOVE 1.
Indeed I must confess, When Souls mix, ‘tis an Happiness; But not compleat till Bodies too do joyne, And both our Wholes into one Whole combine; But half of heaven the Souls in glory tast, Till by love in Heaven at last, Their Bodies too are plac’t. 2.
In thy immortal part Man, as well as I, thou art. But something ‘tis that differs Thee and Me; And we must one even in that difference be. I Thee, both as a man, and woman prize; For a perfect Love implies Love in all capacities. 3.
Can that for true love pass, When a fair woman courts her glass? Something unlike must in Loves likeness be, His wonder is, one, and Varietie. For he, whose soul nought but a Soul can move, Does a new Narcissus prove, And his own Image love. 4.
That souls do beauty know, ‘Tis to the Bodies help they ow; If when they know’t, they strait abuse that trust, And shut the Body from’t, ‘tis as injust, As if I brought my dearest Friend to see My Mistris, and at th’ instant Hee Should steal her quite fromMee. - AbrahamCrowley 1656
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The world is interconnected in so many different ways. When looking into one person we are destined to uncover more new people, movements, stories, fragments of history that are intertwined within the lives of these individuals. Interestingly drawing fromtwo rather different icons can still allowyou to make connections between them. This is the focus of this month’s issue, the Legendary DIVINEand the Fabulous Zandra Rhodes. Our fascinations with the careers of these icons is immeasurable. Fromtheir stunning looks, their legacies, their work, their talent and vision the subject in spotlight is makeup artistry. Back in the 80s Zandra had closely worked with the makeup artist Richard Sharah, there are many beautiful avantgrade posters that were used for campaigns at the time. Sharah became the pioneer of The Romantics movement and explored this art direction together with Rhodes. Their styles work so well together, in a symbiotic way allowing both to express themselves and enhance the work one another. Richard was really the treasure of his time: “One of the most influential makeup artists possibly ever. He lived and died his art.” - Zandra Rhodes His artistry was contemporary and he was a phenomenal human being, he worked with many cutting-edge artists including David Bowie, Steve Strange (fromthe Blitz Kids), Robyn Beeche, Toyah Willcox and Divine (Harris Glenn Milstead). Most of the works created with these artist are still regarded as masterpieces today. Does this mean makeup brings people together, or does it mean something much greater? Art brings people together, allowing us to see and draw the connections that are too often overlooked by our busy world. Collaboration is what makes movements so diverse and exploratory. Bridging ideas to shape and alter our world. The freedomof art can be translated to the interactions between people, you can become bigger by dispersing your art and allowing others to add on to it. You are not your art and your art isn’t you, you can connect to the subject matter on many different levels but this separation is what creates this metaphysical manifestation of our values, thought and beliefs. By observing these froma critical stance we can become wiser. This separation is hard since we are so often attached to the objects around us. We find peace and reassurance in it. This creates comfort, but nothing new or revolutionary can be comfortable, as we’re not accustomed to it yet. Ownership is out of question, since it’s so profoundly important to capitalists these days. Ownership confines you and therefore limits you. Letting go of ownership and delving into sharing and abstaining is what creates freedomof mind. Happiness can be found within those that don’t materialise their love, but those who live through experience and feeling. Free mobility and movement is what’s behind this magazine, the issue can be navigated fromany point, you can read it back to front and front to back. You can make the choice, and you can personalise it. Depending on howyou look at it, it’s like there is no end. Playing around with concepts attempting to manipulate them and deconstruct themis what art is to us. Since this is an eclectic of articles, poems, posts and more, all the aspects come together unified in one issue, they can still all be regarded as separate pieces of art, but when aligned together (based on you choices) they tell a story.
AUTHORS EDI T 7
You will make many new, interesting acquaintances. You will stay in new places so far and will take part in new events. In everyday, a bit monotonous life, you will introduce a breath of freshness, a novelty that will make routine go to the background. As for the love sphere, June will be very hot. You will meet a certain person with whomyou will spend most of your free time
Stars are a fortunate success in matters related to travel and entertainment. It is now the best time to rest - either at home or somewhere abroad in our country. Good mood will not leave you even for a moment. You will be full of enthusiasm, optimismand the willingness to be in a social circle. You can easily make new friends that your inborn sense of humor will help.
There will be a good streak for professional matters. This month brings many possibilities. Many ideas that have so far been circulating in your head now have a chance to turn into reality. But be careful - do not make promises and commitments without coverage. If you feel that you can not do something, just say it openly. Some older person will give you some tips.
In June, the time has come to improve your relationships with your loved ones. Aperson who is quite close to your heart is waiting for more attention fromyou and needs your support, so you must devote your free time to it and you will feel that you have needed someone. Analyze your financial situation and think about your own budget.
In June you will be accompanied by dilemmas related to a different gender, which, fortunately, you should be able to solve. In this area, however, it will be necessary to resolutely attempt to understand the other’s needs and honesty. Your inclination to analyze will come to the fore, hence you will often consider pros and cons of every decision you make.
You will start to get the impression that instead of going forward, you start to step back. Do not make any nervous moves. Be patient and self-controlled. In peace, look forward to the development of events, and you will be much better at it. June is a great time to slow down and devote to thinking about many things fromeveryday life.
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Good news related to the new venture you are about to start is coming fast. Place more emphasis on matters related to connectivity - with letters, telephony. The beginning of the month will abound for you in many nice and romantic moments, long conversations with your partner or time spent together, so it is worth giving everything to improve your relationship.
You will easily make new friends with other people. Your eloquence will be at a very high level. Like a fish in the water, you will feel in the company of people with intellectual interests. You will want to deepen your knowledge, sign up for a course or group classes. You will fall into the eye of a person of a different sex who will start sending you well-defined signals.
In matters related to investments, finances, applying for promotion or an increase, it is recommended to slow down the pace. In June, pay more attention to your family, because it should be the most important thing for you, especially when it’s not going well. Your intuition will be good to tell you. You will be able to find yourself in a good place and good time.
Some time ago you undertook a new venture that took you long hours. Finally, the situation will calmdown now, thanks to which you will gain more free time, which will be devoted to your family and rest. The house will be your refuge, a mainstay of security. It is here that you will find time to gather thoughts and reflect on your life, as well as to organize your feelings.
In June, take care of your private sphere of life with greater care. As soon as time permits you, spend it with people who are unique to you. It is with them in the main role plan the future and boldly, without any fear talk about your feelings and desires. All dreams that until now only lived in your imagination, now have a chance to come true.
Saturn will turn into a sign of Aquarius, it will affect your previous home life. In June you will not leave humor and an optimistic attitude towards life. Nothing will be able to spoil this. The Sagittarius and Gemini will play a special role for you this month. Unfortunately, problems and misunderstandings await you in the emotional sphere.
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What would be your favourite memory of Richard? ZANDRARHODES: His excitement and his big hands. He would hold the models face with these big hands and skilfully apply the makeup. In a way he formed me as he formed my look, my identity was shaped by him. RAE: When he called me Booba, a name he only gave to those he loved or endeared! And when I arrived 10 minutes early to my first lesson, he opened the door and said “YOU’RETO EARLY!” So I returned 1 min past … he again opened the door and shouted “YOU’RELATE!” OH! Also when he said ‘pack up and move to Sydney and be my assistant!!’ WHOA! In that moment my life had changed!! DOTTI: I have so many memories and some are personal as I spent a lot of time just hanging out with himat his place talking on so many subjects. There was about 4 to 5 of us who would go once a week to his house for meditation he would talk us through the journey. I still to this day practice some of his techniques. Also, I would love sitting and cleaning his makeup bags rearranging all his colours and products as he would also make his own and would explain the process to me. I still to this day have some pigments he gave me, and I mean pigments beyond colours of vibrancy! One of my favourite memories was how big his hands were, so huge, but he would pick up the smallest and finest brush and paint with elegance and precision. AIMIE: The makeup classes were in Richards home, so it felt like a visual cocoon of photos, art, books, silk kimonos and music. He would tell you stories as you worked. Adventures on movie sets, celebrity clients, and of course makeup tips. Coming fromNew Zealand it all felt exciting and inspiring. His voice, which still sits crystal clear in my mind, was loud and you would hang onto every word he said.
SHARAH’ S MAG 10
Richard Sharah’s unique makeup style helped inspire the looks of the New Romantic movement. Sharah’s working relationship with designer Zandra Rhodes (who dressed Freddie Mercury and Queen during the 1970s) lasted for decades. Sharah was slightly color blind—something his fans and students believed only enhanced his artistic ability. Taking things a step further, Sharah also made his own products, therefore, creating truly singular work for his clients which in addition to Bowie included Visage’s Steve Strange and a makeup icon in his own right, Divine.
GICK
Zandara and Richard 1980
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Such precursors to performance art find a parallel in both the staging of Zandra’s (then-unorthodox) early fashion shows and the jolting drama expressed by her 1977 elevation and beautification of the punk street style, as well as in the logical twenty-first-century outcome of these innovations, with Zandra becoming a designer of opera costumes. Mark-making is always present, so that even her externalised seams, as in the 1971 ‘dinosaur coat’ (see p. 32), become outlining, defining chevrons, while the use of tears and beaded pins in her punk ‘Conceptual Chic’ collections can be seen to be positioned along lyrical lines that echo the movement of brushstrokes. An equal partner to her hand is the brush she holds, one of the many Japanese Tombowwatercolour pens that she has been using since 1971. Her adoption of this tool was groundbreaking, as explained by the influential educator Jo Ann C. Stabb (herself fluent in fashion illustration, having trained at the Toby-Coburn School for Fashion Careers in NewYork, as well as completing an MAat the University of California, Los Angeles, before beginning her teaching career in 1968 at the University of California, Davis). On the impact of a 1970 American Vogue issue featuring the Indian Feathers’ print, she recalls: [There were] feathers and wiggly, organic, amorphous, abstracted prints. She was a breath of fresh air. She would take a theme - squiggles, undulating lines - never configured to the shape of the garment, but very painterly, free forms. The drawing tool was 50 per cent of this freedom- very clear, wonderful sketches, the marks gave a permanent line that didn’t smudge or drip like paint or other liquid media such as the India[n] ink we were all using for fashion illustrations. Her tools were important; she was drawing, a great artist.
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NEW ROMANTICS We still had tempera, paint over pencil, but the release fromthe ink was major. We embraced instead that soft nib, the flow of the media.
After decades of showing Zandra’s work to her own students, Stabb added, ‘Any person teaching design would respond similarly.’ The Art of Zandra Rhodes was to become a bible within North American art and design colleges after its publication in 1984, and such was demand that it was republished in 1995. Although only briefly a part-time teacher (at what was then known as Ravensbourne College of Art and Design, and from2018, Ravensbourne University London), Zandra’s own teaching experience grounds and informs the approach in the book, which she co-wrote with Anne Knight. Its clear and generous insights into her creative process not only showcase her own work, but also document the postmodernist ethos that opposes the formalities of the ‘tasteful’, instead embracing all cultures and subcultures, and all eras. Art textiles - that is, constructed textile forms, whether wall hangings or baskets - had already begun to reflect multicultural influences when the bookwas published. However, the radical post-Pop and Op changes taking place in the creation of printed fabric design itself - whether for fashion or furnishing - were undoubtedly accelerated in the mid-1980s (when much of the world was entranced with the English ‘country house’ style and power-dressing’ women) by the widespread exposure of students and practitioners to Zandra’s pioneering perspective. The venerated textile artist Rozanne Hawksley (also an RCAgraduate) was, similarly, showing Zandra’s work to the trainee art teachers who were her students at Manresa House (Battersea College of Education, now London South Bank University) from1968 to 1978, as well as the art students gathered around her at Goldsmiths’ College (now Goldsmiths, University of London) from1980 to 1987. She did so because Zandra was ‘something else - not just a textile designer. Like so many painters or sculptors, she has a response to events or places that is quite rare, showing an artist’s eye. What emerges fromher observation is an intuitive response and the guts, strength and determination to externalise it.’10 At Goldsmiths, David Green - a fellow student of Zandra’s at the RCA- ran the textile print and dye roomfromaround 1965 until 1978, when Rozanne was a sabbatical-leave, post-graduate student there. An insight into his own artistic values can be found in his recent statement that ‘drawing is not subservient to any other art form... the line is master of the whole story.”’1 Hawksley has vivid memories of his response to any student who said the Rhodes style was flippant or superficial: ‘He would refer to the breadth of her work, her focused mind and eyes, and he would bellow “she WORKS, she does it ALL” to emphasise the importance of her attitude.’12 Zandra herself knows this: ‘The whole reason that you do things is because you believe in them, but it is still a struggle to get the whole world to follow behind and use the things! I find my career goes like this: one minute it is you really are up and then everyone wants you and then it goes down a bit and if you really are lucky it comes up again.’
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SPANDAU BALLET HOT HOT H Rusty Egan and Tony Hadley have known each other for almost 40 years. The DJ and former club owner Egan is responsible for establishing the nowlegendary Blitz club in London’s Soho, where David Bowie went to experience London’s punk scene and Steve Strange famously turned away Mick Jagger. In this melting pot of music and fashion, out of the ashes of punk, the NewRomantics were born. While Rusty Egan was collecting vinyls, Tony Hadley and four of his school friends were getting ready to formSpandau Ballet and it was at the the Blitz where they would cut their teeth. Before long, they were off to Ibiza. Swathes of young and gorgeous music fans were flocking to join the endless party which kicked off fromthe late 1970s onwards—a playground for thrill seeking young people with only a fewquid in their back pocket. Fromthe Ku Club to Pike’s hotel, the temperatures were scorching, the parties lasted all night and the stories were as sordid as they come. FromFreddie Mercury’s nowinfamous birthday bash to George Michael lounging poolside in a pair of tiny sports shorts, what happened in Ibiza, stayed in Ibiza. Until now. In a hotel roomin London, Tony and Rusty reunite to reminisce on days gone by and share some of their favourite memories of fun in the sun.
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HOT
JOURNEYS TO GLORY 1
To Cut a Long Story Short
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Age of Blows
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Reformation
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The Freeze
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Mandolin
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Confused
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Muscle Bound
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Toys
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ZANDRA RHODES AND THE AVANTGARDE WORLD OF MAK EUP
PUNK FASHION
RICHARD SHARAH’ S NEW ROMANTICS BIBA AESTHETIC
June 2020 Issue