La Chaîne — Coast-to-Coast

Bailliage de la Nouvelle-Ecosse

Hermitage Restaurant Hosts Diner Amîcal

(Submitted by Jerzy B. Gajewski MD, FRCSC Vice-Chargé de Presse)

Halifax’s Hermitage Restaurant hosted an outstanding Diner Amîcal in the stunning Alexander building in late March featuring a remarkable culinary and service team. Executive Chef and co/owner, Lawrence Deneau, and his partners Ryan Wolfe and Bryan Tanaka, established the restaurant in October 2020 with the motto “Think global + love local”. Deneau uses locally sourced ingredients along with some of the world’s proven and most popular products to produce a truly unique expression of pride and passion. Hermitage’s General Manager, Jane Keddy, leads the way with her tireless quest for the best guest experience possible. Sommelier Maura Casey was brought in to excite and enthrall our wine loving guests.

Executive Chef and co/owner, Lawrence Deneau.

Sommelier Maura Casey.

Chef Deneau’s early love for cooking was sparked on his family’s farm in Stewiacke, Nova Scotia. He was introduced to his first ‘master chefs’ in his grandmother’s kitchen. Travelling across Canada and embarking on culinary expeditions to New Orleans, Charleston, and Mexico.

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Lawry eagerly learned from each of the many French, Spanish, Italian, Creole, and Mexican Chefs he encountered and worked alongside. In 2004-05 he joined Martin Ruiz-Salvatore, as Sous chef, at Fleur de Sel in Lunenburg, NS Lawrence moved on to back up Renée Lavallee at Il Mercato in Halifax, NS. He then moved into an Executive chef position within the Bertossi Group for 11 years at establishments LaFrasca Cibi + Vini and The Bicycle Thief. In addition, Lawry travelled to Italy for training with Chef Giovanni Tavolaro at the Michelin-starred La Taverna in Friuli in 2013. In 2017, he opened a small food operation within Chain Yard Cidery (Unchained Kitchen) in Halifax’s North End. In 2019. with a huge risk under his belt he eyed a unique property on Barrington St. in Halifax. Julep Kitchen + Cocktails opened to fanfare and is considered one of Halifax’s most unique and well-loved restaurants. Following Julep, in October 2020, Lawrence, and his business partners opened Hermitage.

Sommelier Maura Casey’s love for wine turned into a passion while travelling Australia and New Zealand in 2012. She completed her first three Wine Spirits Education Trust (WSET) levels in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula wine region, alongside her postgraduate Diploma in Wine Business Management from the Canadian Food and Wine Institute. She then moved to London, England, as Sommelier at Spring by Syke Gyngell in Somerset House. During her tenure in London, she completed her WSET Diploma with Merit in 2017, and enjoyed the proximity to some of Europe’s finest wine regions.

Maura returned to Niagara and ran the DTC sales for Hidden Bench Estate Winery. During her time in Niagara, she also worked with Stratus Vineyards, the Somewhereness group, and the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C). On her way to the Barossa Valley to work harvest for the 2020 vintage, Maura stopped in Beverly Hills to successfully challenge the Court of Master Sommeliers Introductory and Certified exams. Maura is thrilled to finally be back home on Canada’s East Coast. She is able to draw on both her Old World and New World wine experiences to help build interesting and cohesive wine listings at Hermitage and Julep. Pastry chef, Courtney Pryce, is a graduate of the prestigious Holland College in PEI, and a visionary in the sweet arts. Pryce continues to wow guests with her interpretation of Hermitage.

Pastry chef, Courtney Pryce.

Craig Norton, Argentier welcomes attendees.

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Lastly, but certainly not least, Leah Coodin rounds off the leadership team as Chef de Cuisine. Her vigorous efforts to manage the day-to-day kitchen team and activities has proven invaluable as Hermitage grows into the future.

Diner Amîcal Hermitage Restaurant

Am u se Nova Scotia R abbit Ragu Moutarde D e Morin, Charleston R ice Pudding

Pictou Island Sandbar Butterm ilk Fried Nova Scotia O ysters In Edible Shells, Gar lic Poached Mussels, Hone ydew Sea Foam , Horseradish Pearls, Rose Dusted Potato Chips & Buttered C ouscous 2015 Be njam in Brid ge Brut, Nova Sco tia

Nuances of Normand y Gruyère & Sm ok ed Bacon T art, Foie Gras, Candied Apple, Fresh R icotta, Cranberry Cider Relish, Calvados Pâté, Mulled C ider Shot & Parm igiano Var iations 2018 Do maine D u C lose l ‘L es Caillerdieres ’, Saven nières

PEI Beef Ch eek T ruscello Fresh Black T ruffles, Grana Padano Frico 2016 Châ tea u Tau zina ut ‘L ’Hermit age ’, St. Ém illion

Salt B aked N S Arctic Char Preserved Lem on, Vich yssoise Stufato & An Incredible EVOO 2 019 Bersa no Arne is, Roero

Fire Roasted N S Lamb R ack Dijon Crust, Lavender Jus, Beluga Lentils 2007 M. C ha pout ier ‘Mo nie r de la Sizeran ne ’, Hermit age , Rh ône

“ A N ew Leaf ' French Vanilla Sponge, Floral Ha y Crêm e, Matcha ‘D irt’ 2016 Cha tea u Rieussec, Sautern es

The Covid Reality: Bailli Susan Legallais with part of the Hermitage team – all in masks.

Rabbit Ragu.

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Pictou Sandbar.

Nuances of Normandy.

A New Leaf.

Bailliage de Toronto

(Submitted Paul Morrell, Vice-Chargé de Presse)

National Conseil well-represented at Toronto “Wine Bingo”

The Toronto Bailliage held another of its very popular “Wine Bingos”, an on-line wine tasting and bingo night, on March 18th. Each participant received a “Bingo Package” prior to the evening that included three wines from Closson Chase Winery in the up and coming Prince Edward County wine region of Ontario: 2018 Churchside Pinot Noir, 2019 The Loyalist Chardonnay and a 2020 Ridge Vineyard Pinot Gris. Closson Chase (established in 1998) is a quality-driven winery that helped spearhead the birth of the Prince Edward County wine industry, using centuries-old European traditions & sustainable, innovative techniques to create world class wines using only the finest Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Pinot Gris grapes.

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Wine, Charcuterie and Bingo – what could be better?

With the ability to sign in on-line from literally anywhere in the world, the event was well-attended as always by Chaîne members from across Canada, including three members of the National Conseil: Bailli Délégué du Canada Tony and Silvana Catanese; Echanson du Canada Cyndi and Fred Grossman and Charge de Presse du Canada Eric and Linda Jones, along with Thomas Schultze, Consul General of the Federal Republic of Germany in Toronto.

The Wines for the evening.

The climate of Prince Edward County, virtually an island, is greatly moderated by Lake Ontario, one of Canada’a five Great Lakes The soils provide some of the best growing conditions favouring Vitis vinifera. Closson Chase’s decision to produce two early ripening varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, reflect a deep understanding of the site’s possibilities. Specifically, the Hillier clay loam at Closson Chase is well to moderately draining, with a shallow layer of top soil consisting of organic matter and crumbled limestone rubble situated on an understructure of fractured limestone plates. The soil retains moisture within its depths which encourages deep root penetration of the vine.

The Vineyard experiences a fast start in the spring, with higher risk of spring frost, but full ripening before the shorter, cooler fall season. Closson Chase’s south facing slope adds to the early warming ability of the site, as well as aiding in water drainage and airflow. Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir break bud early and require one of the shortest growing seasons of all vinifera wine grapes to fully ripen. The nature of the soil, the site and the varietals are perfectly married, giving Closson Chase the opportunity to achieve world class wines.

Bingo caller Keith Tyers, Winemaker at Closson Chase.

The event co-host, and honorary bingo caller, was Keith Tyers, Winemaker at Closson Chase. A graduate of the International Sommelier Guild program at Humber College, Keith worked for a number of years at a variety of well-known Toronto restaurants before deciding he wanted to enjoy a quieter lifestyle to raise his young family with his wife

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Cassandra. He began his winemaking career as a Vineyard Hand in 2003, soon after his arrival in Prince Edward County. This quickly led to an Assistant Winemaker position. After a brief period in wine consulting and sales, Keith returned to Closson Chase and took over as Winemaker in 2015. Since then he has continued the winery’s tradition of excellence in Chardonnay and has also followed his passion of producing exceptional Pinot Noir. Keith’s philosophy is to capture what Mother Nature grows in a bottle, creating the best possible expression of local terroir.

Keith expertly explained each of the three wines as they were enjoyed prior to each of three Bingo games, competing for special prizes of wines donated by Closson Chase.

Attendees tensely listen for the next number!

Daubers at the ready.

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The Winners were:

Game One

Robert Klombies GM of Riverside Country Club in Saskatoon 2020 KJ Watson Rose 2020 Loyalist Chardonnay

Game Two

Mr. Llyn Strelau Owner Jewels by Design in Calgary 2018 Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 Vineyard Pinot Noir

Game Three (Grand Prize)

Robert Klombies GM of Riverside Country Club in Saskatoon 2018 Grande Cuvee Chardonnay 2018 Grande Cuvee Pinot Noir

The Bingo action heats up in the Grossman kitchen.

Enjoying the Pinot Gris while waiting for “the games to begin”.

Bailliage de l’Alberta à Calgary

(Submitted by Ashley James, Vice-Chargé de Presse)

Diner Amîcal at Yellow Door Bistro, Hotel Arts

The Calgary Bailliage’s first gathering of 2021 was held at the Hotel Arts unique Yellow Door Bistro on a wintry evening. The fresh dusting of snow viewed out of the windows made on feel they dining in a snow globe – a very special evening indeed.

Situated at the heart of Calgary’s art and entertainment scene, Hotel Arts offers a unique and refreshing connection to the city. Style-driven, the boutique property features modern décor and designer touches throughout with an extensive professionally-curated art collection. Yellow Door Bistro, innovative in its culinary offerings, features bistro-inspired cuisine created by Executive Chef Quinn Staple, Maître Rôtisseur with a reverence for classic ingredients served with a contemporary twist.

Hotel Arts Lobby and art.

With Covid protocols still firmly in place, we were seated out throughout the Bistro. Yet it was wonderful to be together, albeit six feet apart. We toasted friends across the room, celebrated birthdays, and were slightly less formal than usual. The menu was just as whimsical with the name of several courses designed as a rhyme. Scott’s famous sourdough bread should also be noted. He has devotedly kept his sourdough starter alive through this all too long Covid period so that Yellow Door would be able to continue to offer their house made bread as we joined together again.

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Executive Chef Quinn Staple, Maître Rôtisseur.

Cocktail Reception “snacks”. Arctic Char In A Jar.

Under The Snow…

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Whispering Port.

Crème Brulée & Chocolate Tart.

Kitchen Brigade.

Serving Brigade.

Diner Amîcal Yellow Door Bistro Hotel Arts

Cocktail Reception

“Chips & Dips” Caviar & Sm ok ed Onion Crèm e Fraiche “Prawn C ock tail” tem pura prawn, tom ato & horseradish gastrique Sm ok ed O yster Chowder Taitt ing er Brut Reserve

Dinner

Sourdough & Butter

Arctic Char In A Jar Ic y W aters Arctic Char, Crispy Pork Belly, Aerated Sm ok ed Potato Yalum ba Ede n Valley Vio g nier, 201 8

BC Dungeness C rab, Scallop, Charred Squash & Foie Gras T errine W ine Jelly, Asian Pear Joseph Dro uhin Saint Vera n, 20 18

Under T he Snow … W hite T ruffle & Parsnip C ustard, Yellow & Black Chanterelles, Macadam ia Nut Doma in e Carn eros Esta te Pin ot N oir, 201 7

Squab on a Log Aged Crown Roast Squab Breast, R illettes, Roast Strawberr y, Liver Mousse, Sm oldering Log Valpio Ch ia nti Classico, 20 17

Palat e Cleanser Grapefruit & G in

Canada Prim e B eef T enderloin & Short Rib Wellington Celer y R oot, Caram elized Beet, Broccolini, Crispy Potato, Grain y Mustard Jus Prem iere Napa Valle y Auction W ine, W hite Rock Vineyards, Castor and Pollux, 2010 Napa, C abernet Sauvignon

Whispering Po rt Fonesca Porto, Baileys, cold brew coffee

Crème Brulée & Chocolat e T art Hazelnut Crust, Mocha Ice Cream

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Calgary Bailli Toni-Marie Ion-Brown and David Tetrault, Bailli Délégué du Canada Honoraire gave the accolade, recognizing how the entire Yellow Door team deserves praise for how well the evening came together. The ability of Heart of the House Plate recipient Executive Chef Quinn Staple to host a national audience at the Gala Dinner for the 2019 National Meeting was recognized and yet adjusting easily to cook for our much smaller group – while still having fun with food, and bringing familiar ingredients to the table in unique ways. The Front of the House plate went to William Blennerhassett, Yellow Door General Manager recognizing the serving and kitchen brigades as a well-oiled team.

David Tetreault (left) and Toni-Marie Ion-Brown (Right) present Heart of the House Plate to Executive Chef Quinn Staple.

William Blennerhassett, Yellow Door General Manager receives Front of the House plate.

Bailliage de Victoria

(Submitted by Gail Gabel, Bailli)

Victoria Bailliage Explores Tuscan Cuisine by Zoom

April - Crostini

On Friday night 7 p.m. April 30th on the West Coast, it was 5a.m. In Tuscany. Why is that of interest to anyone? Eighteen intrepid Victoria Bailliage Members set out to explore the mysteries of the traditional Italian “Aperitivo” at 7pm, when the locals typically enjoy it. For us to do so, our delightful guide, Beatrice, (Bea) from Virtual Eating Europe Tours was on line with us through ZOOM, looking brighteyed and ready to roll at 5 am at her home in Tuscany!

Beatrice (Bea) from Virtual Eating Europe presents Crostini.

This was a “first” on-line experience for our Bailliage and we had the option of watching Bea prepare from scratch traditional Aperitivo finger food, taught to her by her grandmother (Nonna) as well as the somewhat “deadly” cocktails that ac-company it. Well ahead of time we had a list of ingredients for those of us who planned to prepare the recipes along with Bea. My kitchen counters were loaded with Italian comestibles destined to become a selection of delicious Crostini.

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The most outstanding feature of the evening was the ambiance and the friendly atmosphere that Bea was able to generate from her home kitchen. She asked us to introduce ourselves and note what was our signature “tipple”. These ranged from Bubbles to Martinis to customized cocktails, none of which were Aperitivo typical, though we could see that most of us were enjoying a glass of something interesting as we watched! From the shopping list of beverages suggested, Bea, opened a bottle of Prosecco, ready to introduce the first Aperitivo cocktail ingredient. I, on the other hand, had bought a rather toothsome, Dry Villa Theresa Rosé Prosecco and would have been happy with just that, but sloshing it into the Cocktail recipe won out the day.

Bea shares Aperol Spritz.

Next the Crostini began to take shape. Bread was sliced and toasted in the oven, while cherry tomatoes were chopped, salt pinched and Basil torn; lashings of virgin olive oil splashed; green and black olives minced; fresh pork sausage was mixed with softened cheese for later baking; Gorgonzola, walnut halves, slices of salami and slivers of dried figs were readied for top-pings with one or two more splashes olive oil.

Throughout the evening, Bea related anecdotal snippets of information about the history of Aperitivo and the rather bitter beverages, Campari and Aperol, that are its features, along with a touch of a sweet Vermouth and, of course, Prosecco.

Aperol Spritz.

Once the Crostini were made, Bea cautioned us on the potency of the second and most famous and popular Aperitivo cocktail, the Negroni, which Tuscans maintain was an Italian invention, by one Mr. Negroni, in the early 20th century. While there have been many Negroni imitators, using a different combination of spirits, to the Italians, none of these produce the genuine article! I diligently mixed my Negroni. Bea was definitely correct. Frankly, it was too strong for my palate and it is hard to believe that Mr. Negroni was reputed to drink 15 of his cocktails each day!

Our virtual trip to Tuscany was only possible as a result of the programmes offered by Virtual Eating Europe Tours, which, prior to COVID operated very successful, actual tours to many of the world cities. Victoria is the first Chaîne Bailliage to hold an event with Eating Europe Tours. Their on-line programmes are typically scheduled for European time zones and we are particularly appreciative that the Company and Bea were willing to conduct her tour so early in the morning in Italy to accommodate our Bailliage. You can learn more about Eating Europe at https://www.eatingeurope.com.

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Recipes for Food and Drinks

Aperitivo Crostini

Ingredients

 French Bread Loaf  Olive oil, salt  Olives (black and some green ones)  Gorgonzola cheese (blue-veined Italian cheese, made from unskimmed cow's milk)  Walnuts  Salsiccia: Fresh sausage (uncooked pork fresh sausage)  Stracchino cheese (or a similar soft cheese like Crescenza or Taleggio. If you can’t find these, mozzarella cheese will work)  Green grapes (a few)  Parmigiano cheese (or parmesan cheese)  Cherry tomatoes  Mozzarella cheese (cherry size)  Figs (fresh or dry) and salami (optional, extra bonus)  One Orange

Recipe

1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C and slice your

French Bread. 2. Stracchino & Salsiccia: Open the fresh sausage and mix it with stracchino cheese in a bowl, then spread it on the bread and bake it in the oven for 10 minutes, 200 celsius until cooked through. 3. Bruschetta with Olives Pate: Mince some black olives and add olive oil and salt (to enrich the taste, add minced anchovies) while you toast the bread in the oven. Spread the olives pate on your crostini. 4. Gorgonzola & Walnuts: Spread a thick layer of gorgonzola cheese on toasted bread and add a piece of walnut on top. 5. Figs & Salami: Spread thin layer of stracchino cheese on the toasted bread, add half a fig and cover with a slice of salami cheese.

June - Gnudi

On Sunday evening, June 13th, 14 Chaîne Members, their partners, two young sons (no doubt in training for later Chaîne Membership), and some visiting friends swelled our group of keen Tuscany “travellers” to close to thirty. Included were two new Chaîne Members who hopefully will be inducted in December, Covid permitting. Our National Bailli, Tony Catanese and wife Silvana were participating, as was my personal friend and Texas Chaîne Member, Dr. Maria Fawcett, who was visiting in Vancouver.

Chef Gaia, our culinary guide, was impressively bright and welcoming, given that it was 4 am in Florence, which is a testament to the impressive and supportive service that her organisation, “Eating Europe” provided for us. Gaia asked each of us in turn what came to mind when one thought of Tuscany. As many of us had visited, reminiscences ranged from the wonderful wines, to the traditional Bistecca alla Fiorentina, the rolling countryside with lines of Poplar trees, and the welcoming nature of the locals.

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Gaia noted the historical background on the origin of Gnudi and its regional or amusing colloquial names, some of which date back to the Italian language at the time of Michelangelo. Gaia had provided her recipe for the Spinach Gnudi well in advance, and those planning to cook along with her were eager to begin. Those watching the fun where relaxed and enjoying a beverage of their choice.

The Bailli had suggested some traditional red wines and a selection of dry Prosecco and Italian whites which would pair with Spinach Gnudi and suit most palates for dining or quaffing. Likely most thought that the spinach that we had to pre-cook and drain was ready, but not so, as Chef Gaia demonstrated that some solid hand squeezing was needed to remove an impressive stream of watery green liquid. The ricotta also had to be drained of excess liquid, though my supply barely managed to fill a teaspoon, making me wonder if my Gnudi dumplings were already doomed for watery failure.

During the preparation phase, Gaia responded to several questions about the ingredients and the consistency of the Gnudi mixture. Then the sage butter sauce was made and set aside while the Gnudi were shaped, then poached in a pot of bubbling water, to which salt and olive oil had been added. Then it was time to display our creations as each was asked to show their platter of Spinach Gnudi, suitably dressed, with freshly grated parmesan, the sage butter sauce, possibly a drizzle of good quality Aceto Balsamico and some sage leaves. But wait, the Gnudi were so delicious that some did not make it to the plating stage and instead we saw smiling faces where their Gnudi had already begun to disappear! One creative group was seated and busy enjoying their Tuscan feast, having premade the Aperitivo cocktails and Crostini from our previous event, with the next course to come: tonight’s Spinach Gnudi. Well done you!

Our thanks to Chef Gaia for her warm hospitality and willingness to accommodate our request for an evening event scheduled in our time zone. We said our goodbyes as dawn approached for Gaia in Tuscany.

Gnudi dalla cucina de Gail.

Gnudi Making Class Ingredients and Per-Experience Preparation

Ingredients (Serves 2)

 300 grams (1 ½ cups) spinach (before class boil spinach in water – 5 minutes – drain it and let it cool down).  200 grams (3/4 cup) ricotta cheese.  1 medium egg.  50 grams (1/2 cup) Parmesan cheese + some extra for topping.  50 grams (1/2 cup) flour plus extra for dusting (gluten-free alternative: rice flour).  Nutmeg  Salt  Black pepper  Garlic (optional)

Sauce

 4 tablespoons of butter and Sage – fresh or dried.

Cooking Tools

 Mixing bowl, Small frying pan, Past pot, Small saucepan, Skimmer/slotted spoon, Baking paper (optional)