Summer VOICES

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ICES magazine

Discover Eco Tourism in Macedonia

Take the challenge volunteer during the summer in Macedonia!

JABLANCI - VILLAGE FROM THE MACEDONIAN FOLK TV STORIES

Couch Surfing or Cheap travel

Be a Volunteer, make a Difference!!!

Editorial Dear readers and respected volunteers, I will start this editorial with the simple motto: Be a Volunteer!!!

Use the following months, where you will have more free time school, university and etc., and do something which can make a difference to the society.

In this voluntary spirit, we decided to make small changes in the VOICES Magazine for the months of July and August. So, the magazine will more look like a pocket edition, containing interesting and useful information, so you can take it with you where ever

you decide to spend the next 2 months.

The beach, the mountain, some lakes or rivers, visiting your grandparents and relatives and etc… Or maybe take it with you, while you are doing some voluntary action for the summer.

Be good, responsible, have fun, enjoy and don’t forget about us… See you all back in August.

gjoko vukanovski

This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This communication reflects the views only o

“Volunteers Centre Skopje� (VCS) is a non-governmental youth organization created in 2005 by former EVS volunteers. The main goal of the organization is to give non-formal educational possibilities to the young people, in different fields, on local and international level; to promote the idea of volunteerism and to connect young people without reference to their nationality, religion, political, economical or social status. We are putting effort to develop a multicultural civil society, to reinforce the existing democratic structure, to enhance the affirmation of young people through their individual abilities and skills, and to connect the young people with the purpose of their closer cooperation.

Voices Magazine is a project of VCS and it is created to provide more opportunities for young people to get to know other countries and cultures, as well to promote volunterism, non-formal education programs and active involment.

Contributors Aga Anouk Blandine Biljana Dragan Sanja Charlie Gjoko Sofia Koen Cover Image Sinisa Davcevski Design By Sinisa Davcevski Publish By Volunteers Centre Skopje

Postal address: Sava Kovacevik 47-4/6 Skopje 1000, Republic of Macedonia Office address: Emil Zola 3-2/3 vcs_contact@yahoo.com +389 2 277 20 95 +389 2 277 20 95 www.vcs.org.mk

of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

How to get to your dream holidaydestination without getting broke?

content

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Take the challenge: volunteer during the summer!

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Climbing in Macedonia

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spend your free summer afternoon!

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VILLAGE FROM THE MACEDONIAN FOLK TV STORIES

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ohrid summer fest

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Discover ECO TOURISM

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picnic time

macedonia Hiking paradise!

Couch Surfing or Cheap travel

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Share your adventures Way 2 A

BOOK REVIEW: EAT, PRAY, LOVE

Memories of Guca Guca delirium

on the road 4

How to get to your dream holiday destination without getting broke?

You have read all year long in VOICES about interesting places to see and our journalists have been giving you tips on how to save money on accommodation. So now when your summer holidays are actually starting, your head is full of ideas where to go.

The only remaining question is – how to get there cheaply?

1. Hitchhiking The cheapest possible way to travel is always hitchhiking. You simply go on the road, put your thumb up and patiently wait for a friendly car that would offer you a ride. Sometimes the driver is not going to drive you all the way to your final destination but at least is able to give you a lift in the right direction. That is already something.

Just remember to be patient- you will always find people going your way, but in some places this way of travelling is more common than in others. The crucial component to your success is standing on the right road, I cannot stress enough the importance of this detail. So, before hitting the road make sure to consult hitchhiking forums or www.hitchwiki.org 2. Carpooling As great as hitchhiking can be for practicing the language and getting to know the real local culture, it is not for everybody. It is impossible to predict how much time will you wait for the car or how many lifts will it take to

on the road

on the road get to the final destination. Plus, some people, especially single woman, are uncomfortable or even afraid to get into an unknown vehicle. For those a great alternative is carpooling (also known as ride-share) – sharing a car and the cost of travelling with other people who happen to go the same direction as you do. Whether you are looking for a ride or offering a place in your vehicle check out www.carpooling.com . Once you find online a person that travels to the same destination as you do, use the contact information to agree on the costs of the ride as well as the exact time and place of pick up.

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3.Hitchiking boat While many people are familiar with the concept of hitchhiking on the road, the idea of doing the same on the sea causes a frown of bewilderment; however it is possible. If you need just a short boat ride (eg. from Greek or Croatian mainland to one of the islands) and prices of the ferry are way too high for you, you can go to a fisherman’s port and ask around.

If you are lucky, you will find a fisherman or local resident who is heading towards the same island as you and who is willing to give you a lift for couple of Euros. If you plan a longer sea journey (eg. to Asia or America) you can find a job on a boat. Not only will you get a ride for free but, if you are lucky enough, you will earn some extra cash on the way too. Ships and cruise boats are constantly looking for crew; not only skilled mechanic but

also animators, cooks, waiters, maids, cleaners etc. Simply google the phrase „ship crew“ or „ship crew wanted“ and take your pick.

4. Trains I believe that trains are well known mean of transport and do not need to be introduced to anybody. Slower than the buses, but much much cheaper and scenic, they provide a good alternative for travelers on a budget. There are good international railway connections from Belgrade, which you can reach easily from Skopje (frequent bus and train connections). If you plan to move around Balkans a lot and you are looking for a good value for money check out the Balkan Flexipass. This train pass allows unlimited rail travel for 5, 10, 15 days ( not necessarily consecutive ) in a 1 month period in the following countries: Bulgaria, Greece, Macedonia, Montenegro, Romania, Serbia and Turkey. You can buy it online (more expensive) or in international ticket offices in the above-mentioned countries.

5. Airplanes If none of the above appeals to you and you still prefer to save your time travelling by air, don’t get discouraged.

Of course airplanes would never be as cheap as trains, but if you search for the connection wisely you can still save some money. First of all, do not limit yourself to airline websites while looking for the connection. Use browsers that combine the offers from

all airlines and segregate them according to the price range (eg.skyscanner. com or momondo.com). Secondly, check out the connection from nearby cities and countries. Sometimes it is cheaper to take the bus to another city and fly from there. When flying from Macedonia always check connections from Tirana, Pristina, Belgrad, Sofia and Thessaloniki (especially from Sofia, because lowcost airlines fly there).

Just remember to add the costs of the ride to the price of the plane ticket and only then see which connection is the cheapest one. Thirdly, plan your trip smartly using all information available online. If EasyJet or Ryanair does not fly from your hometown it does not mean that you cannot use it. Find out where they fly from and try to get there as cheaply as possible. Sometimes booking two flights, from two different companies gives you a better deal.

Have a great summer, travel light and BON VOYAGE!!!!!

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Aga Krawczyk

volunteerism

Take the challenge: volunteer during the summer!

The end of the exams is within sight; the summer can finally start! Maybe you have planned trips abroad or you want to relax near the Ohrid Lake and read your favourite book in the park. But maybe you did not make a lot of plans and you do not really know what you are going to do with all that free time.

In that case, you can always volunteer during the summer. There are plenty of organizations that are looking for people who can help a hand. Occasionally check the websites of what is happening in Macedonia, because a lot of summer festivals, concerts and happenings can use your help!

If you are an animal lover, you can always volunteer in the Zoo of Skopje. On January 26 Skopje Zoo launched an appeal for volunteers.

The volunteers would be included in the further development of the

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Zoo. They preferred volunteers who had a prior knowledge of biology or veterinary medicine, but this was not obligatory. The volunteers would mostly be used as eco-patrols that would inform the visitors about what is allowed and what is not allowed in the Zoo. With the arrival of new animals during the last few months (including an anaconda, a crocodile, camels, buffalos and a bison) and the increasing amount of visitors of the Zoo during the upcoming months more volunteers will be needed during the summer. For more information you can contact Miloshevski Jordancho, Tatiana Stamenov or Levajkovik Vesna, the respectable curator, educator and responsible of the Zoo. Other places and organizations are also welcoming volunteers. The Red Cross is an international humanitarian movement with a very large worldwide group of volunteers. The organization is protecting human life and health. They are a neutral and independent organization that is active in 186 countries around the world.

As a volunteer for the Red Cross in Macedonia you can join different programs, according to your interests: Health-prevention activities, Disaster Preparedness and

volunteerism

volunteerism Response, Promotion of blood donation, First AID, Youth Red Cross, Social welfare, Tracing Service and Restoring family links, Information, Dissemination, and many other project activities that are being realized in the Red Cross Branch. As a volunteer you may join the activities of the Red Cross and to volunteer in the nearest Red Cross Branch (total of 34 Branches and the City Red Cross of Skopje) according to your time and desires.

More information http://www.ckrm.org.mk/JoinUs/JoinUs.aspx?path=Volunteers

‘unicornis’ from Bitola is also searching for volunteers. The organisation was established in july 2010 by people who care about animals and the environment and who want to fight for animal rights. The main goals of the organisation are to spread public awareness about homeless animals and their rights, rescue the homeless animals in the way of finding homes for street animals and improve the conditions for the dog shelters around the country.

The society for the protection of UNICRONIS activists should be animals and the environment enthusiastic people who have a great love for animals. To become a volunteer in the organisation you may contact unicornisbt@yahoo. com. You should send your CV and give some basic information. The team of UNICORNIS will review your application and quickly respond to it.

More information http://www.unicornis-association.com/.

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Anouk Craps

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Be a Volunteer, Daily centre for social care for the kids from the street - Avtokomanda

EU Info day - City Park, Skopje

make a difference!!!

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Climbing in Macedonia !

Macedonia has perfect conditions for rock climbing.

Here two popular spots to enjoy this sport in a wonderful landscape.

MATKA - (Skopje)

Alpine sport climbing locality “Matka” is located in the of river, at about 15 km, southwest of Skopje. You can come to Matka, by car or city bus n.2 and n.12 to Saraj village and from there you take the minibus n.60. The minibus departs every 100 minutes from Saraj village. By car you can come to the parking place above the kayak path and you continue to the mountain house “Matka”. There is a good path of 10 minute walk to get there from the parking place, the last bus stop.

Matka is one of the mots popular climing spot for climbers around Skopje. The view is really great, you can either camp close to the St Nikola Monasteri or find accomodation by asking where the touristic boats are.

DEMIR KAPIJA more....

This place is located in the central part of Republic of Macedonia, 100km south away from Capitol city Skopje under the Cliffs on Demir Kapija passing the highway Skopje-GevgelijaThessaloniki (M24). Right after Demir Kapija village, there is a tunnel. When the first part of the tunnel ends (500 meters), there is a small parking place, with a bridge. You can access to the canyon with a small via ferrata.

Then follow the river for few minutes and you are there ! There are many sectors on both side. This place is really quiet, and the canyon provides some shadows, than you may appreciate in summer under the hot sun of Macedonia guide pdf : www.climbing.mk

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CONTACT SPORTSKO KACUVACKA ASOCIJACIJA PHONE Phone/Fax: ++ 389 (2) 3165 540; E-mail contact@climbing.org.mk

Another proposal where and how to spend your free summer Afternoon!

Another proposal where and how to spend your free summer afternoon. Attractive new cable car leading to the Millennium Cross.
Millennium Cross is 66 meters high, it is situated on top of the mountain Vodno and it is the largest cross in the world.
 It was built in 2002.

In order to make it even a bigger tourist attraction, from June 3 a new cable car from Sredno Vodno to Millennium Cross has been in use .
The route is 1,750 meters long and the ride takes about six to eight minutes.

So the visitors are given the opportunity to enjoy the beautiful landscape of Vodno and the panorama of the city Skopje. Promotional tickets till July 1 will cost 50 denars for adults. Children and pensioners will go for free.

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Biljana Bozhinovska

Vodno Vodno offers amazing views to every side of Skopje. Its the perfect get away card from city dust to pure nature. Discover Vodno by hiking, mount biking, or enjoying the views from a car. the In 2002, the biggest Christian Cross on earth, was build on the top the of the highest point of the mountain, Krstovar peak, on 1066 metres. Cross is called Millennium Cross. The cross was constructed to commemorate 2,000 years of Christianity in Macedonia and in the world. sofia sormunen

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VILLAGE FROM THE MACEDONIAN FOLK TV STORIES

Everybody knows well the Macedonian folk stories which for long time has been shown on TV. From them we nave learned a lot for macedonian folklore, macedonian customs, tradition, handcrafts and many other useful advices about Macedonian daily life. We could never forget our greatest actors like Gjorgi and Shenka Kolozov, Goce Todorovski, Vancho Petrushevski, Lazar Barakov, Goce Vlahov and many other who brought to us on the small screens the macedonian daily life from ot-

surprise nowadays this tradition has been over taken by the new generation of Macedonian actors to thread pearls on the necklace so-called Macedonian folk stories, so the Macedonian people for many years more will have the great honor and pleasure to watch them.

For sure so far many people asked themselves where, on which locations these folk stories have been filmed. Mostly, the biggest parts of the episodes were filmed and still are filming in village Jabolci. The village Jabolci is 12 kilometers away from Skopje and is located in municipality Sopishte. Although very little but it is still very important toman empire until second in the occurrence of these magworld war on very authentic and nificent works. It is surrounded more original way. On our big by the mountains Kitka and Suva

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Gora. This village has only 68 inhabitants, 42 are Macedonians and the other 25 are Albanians.

The life in this village is traditional. The inhabitants mainly are engaged in agriculture, livestock farming and harvesting trees. The food is preparing also traditionally in traditional pot (kotle) and under the stove (vrshnik) and water for drinking and for the domestic animals is taken from natural wells.

The reason that the folk stories are filmed precisely in this village is because of the old way of building of the houses from Ottoman empire and the traditional way of life. Houses are built on two floors; the ground floor is used for storing goods and for the domestic animals (mainly sheep, goats cattle because this village is mountain village), and the first floor serves for living of the hosts. On the front side of the house there is loggia made of wood. On the loggia along the fence there are beautiful traditional sofas for sitting and taking rest, where the hosts can take some rest and enjoy in the sharp

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fresh morning mountain air. On the left side of the loggia there is foursquare small place very good built to serve as small kitchen. In the middle of this kitchen there is traditional fire place and traditional pot and stove where women from this village prepare different Macedonian national specialites like: tavche gravche,

kolpite, kachamak, sukanica pie and many others.

This village is full with visitors during the labor day because this village has plenty of picnic places such as: Lokva, Jasen, Sushica, Karazhica, Kitka and so on. As much more interesting places for visiting are: hristijanova cave, church Saint Mina and podishte. Hristijanova cave is one kilometer away from vil-

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lage Jabolci on the right side of the Suva reka river at an altitude of 600 meters. The total length of the cave together with all cave’s channels and extensions is 84 meters. Today it is a fossil cave with significant occurrence of cave decorations. The saint Mina church in village Jabolci was founded in 1938. The most significant thing about this church is that from its inception was not consecrated, so that’s why the inhabitants couldn’t get married in it and also couldn’t baptize

children. In 2009 this church was consecrated so nowadays it is big attraction for the young couples to get married in this church and also for many foreigners because of its architecture. Podishte is historic location from hellenic time where has been found bronze head which is part of some sculpture. the head is with natural size and it is presupposed that it is the head of dionysius mitrefuros taurus from the second half of the first century b. c.

Village Jabolci really is golden grain from the necklace of the Macedonian villages. After I visit it i was very satisfied and full of happiness. So I warmly recommend to everybody to visit this village, to see its natural beauties, to enjoy in the kindness, hospitality of the villagers, to taste the home made bread or pie baked under the traditional

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stove together with home made sour milk, to experience the macedonian village life as same as Macedonian folk stories.

Dragan Lazeski

Where to go this summer?

For sure you are wondering where to go this summer? If you have already decided to pass your vacation outside the country think again, because this summer our small country for sure has what to offer.

If you enjoy cultural events and classical music, this summer you can visit the festival “Ohrid Summer”, which for 50 years is held in Ohrid. The beginning of “Ohrid Summer” will be marked the world premiere performance of the opera “Trilogy novel of Otorino Respigi which will be held on 12 July 2011th. This creation offers a distinctive stage set for its distinctive urban theater performance with the use of unusual settings not so familiar to the Macedonian public. If you are ready for your own cultural upbringing and expanding your horizons, this cultural challenge is just for you. Certainly it wouldn’t be Ohrid summer without the concert of the Macedonian Opera and Ballet as well as Macedonians famous guitarist Vlatko Stefanovski and violinist Stefan Milenkovic who will held a concert at the Antique Theatre in Ohrid on Aug. 1, in the framework of the Ohrid Summer Festival.

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On 07.06.2011 the fans of folk music and dances will have the opportunity to be part of Balcan Dolni Saraj festival where the ensemble of folk dances and songs Tanec will have performance.

For all others who want the Macedonian pop music, all summer you can enjoy music from different bands and musicians such as Beni Shaqiri, Karolina Goceva, Toni Zen Slatkaristika and many others.

Lovers of good beer this year may also join the second beer festival Ohrid 2011 in Ohrid. The event will feature several well-known Macedonian bands as Superhiks, Partybrakers well known ex Yugoslavian bands and many other.

Fans of techno, electronic and house music will be able to share new and guaranteed unforgettable experience with world known DJ David Guetta on 1 August in Ohrid.

Wherever you choose to spend this summer have unforgettable and unique moments filled with happiness and pleasure.

Gordana Klimoska

Picnic time!

More than 300 years ago the French word ‘pique-nique’ (to choose a little something) meant a group of people who were eating together in a restaurant and who brought their own wine.

Later the term implied that all the guests contributed to the meal.

Books, paintings, films and musical pieces have eagerly been using the theme of enjoying an outdoor meal in the woods, in a park or on the beach. And so the tradition continued; Australians picnic for Christmas, Italians for Easter. But what are the perfect ingredients for a successful picnic?

1. Planning Having a spontaneous picnic is always fun, but it is nicer and more relax if you can plan what to bring.

It is easy to divide types of foods, drinks and other useful items among each other. Listening to the weather forecast is also not a bad idea! If you have no idea about the weather, take an umbrella (that can also be used against the sun) and a hat.

2. Place The place also makes the picnic!

Macedonia offers a tremendous variety of beautiful places, so choosing one of them should not be a

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problem. In and near Skopje, the City Park, the grass field around the City Fortress, Matka Canyon and the grass field next to Markov Monastery are the best options. Of course any garden or terrace can fit as well.

3. Blanket To make it a bit more comfortable, bringing a blanket or cushions is always a good idea. It can be an old blanket from your sofa, a quilt or a plastic tablecloth. Remember that colourful motives make people happy!

4. Cutlery Forks and knives are handy, but not obligatory. Bottle openers on the contrary are a must and also cups and plates make your picnic more comfortable. Put everything in a classic basket and off you go!

5. Foods and drinks Salads, cakes, fruits, homemade lemonades, beer, wine, etc. A picnic requires variation. Make something original and use a lot of fresh ingredients. Let yourself be inspired by the recipes on the following page!

Anouk Craps

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Be a Volunteer,

“Shortcut to happiness”, Youth Exchange, Struga, 2010

“Faces behind masks�, Youth Exchange, Struga, 2011

make a difference!!!

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Discover ecotourism!

rience and raise sensitivity to the countries’ environmental and social climate. The financial benefits should go to the local people.

We have all heard about ecotour- When taking a closer look at ecoism, but do we know what it ac- tourism in Macedonia we find out tually means? According to the that mainly 3 southwestern Macsite of The International Ecotour- edonian villages are connected to ism Society (TIES) ecotourism ecotourism: Vevchani, Brajchino

is “Responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.� The participants of ecotourism should therefore minimize their impact, build environmental and cultural awareness and respect, create a positive expe-

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and Elshani.

Vevchani is located at the foot of the Jablanica mountain range and close to the town of Struga and Ohrid Lake. With its 2500 inhabitants it is the biggest village of the mentioned ecotourism destinations. It is easy to find accommoda-

tion in people’s houses. Apart from It is situated in the National Park of the yearly carnival on the 14th of Pelister. This small village with only

January the village is also famous for its own passport and currency! Regarding the nature of the area, one must go to the Vevchani springs. They are situated on the eastern side of the Jablanica mountain range. Near to the springs one can also find many caves. The springs are located at different altitudes. Close to Vevchani one can discover glacial lakes, from which the highest lake is situated at an altitude of 2000 metres.

6 km from the Prespa Lake one can find the village Brajchino.

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Vevcani 150 inhabitants can host tourists in families. In 2005 the path “Brajchino-Big Lake” was promoted.

It is the first mountain path along which panels with detailed information were placed. The trail links the region around the Prespa Lake with the National Park of Pelister.

In the park one can find a rich flora and fauna, of which wolves, bears, boars and other. A big part of the products of the local market are produced by the people of Brajchino. Tourists can try the local cuisine in people’s homes.

Elshani is also situated in a na-

tional park, the one of Galichica, near the Ohrid Lake. During the summer about 400 tourists join the 680 local inhabitants of the rural mountain village. Throughout the village around 200 beds are available in family houses. The people of Elshani are very hospitable and want to share their style of living.

Elshani is a good starting point for

Elshani

walks and climbing in the nearby national park. There are 5 walking tours that start from the village. By the lake is a camping site is located that only works during the summer. The whole area is also very suitable for cycling.

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Anouk Craps

MACEDONIA: HIKING PARADISE Galičica national park - Magaro peak The Galičica national park is located between the lakes Ohrid and Prespa. There are many routes Here you are two hikes to try this there and they are mainly leading summer to escape Macedonia’s to the Magaro peak which stands at 2265 meters. heat!

One way to climb this summit : Galičica national park - Magaro From Ohrid reach the village of Peštani where the marked path peak starts. You will walk in the forest Pelister national park - The Rocky until a place called ‘Ajdučka cešma’.

From there you take the asphalt Trail road until a saddle. From this point you can start the climb of the summit. From the top you’ll have a perfect view on the two lakes, Ohrid and Prespa. The part until the saddle will take you more or less 3h30 and the climb of the top 1h30.

With more or less 80 % of the territory covered by hills and mountains, 3 national parks, a rich fauna and flora, many marked paths and almost no tourist, Macedonia can be called a hiking paradise…

Pelister national park - The Rocky Trail Pelister is the second biggest natural park after Mavrovo. The Rocky Trail is a good way to discover it : it will lead you to the highest peak, the Mount Pelister on the Mountain Baba, which stands at 2601 meters, via the two glacial lakes, ‘malo ezero and ‘golemo ezero’, called the Mountain’s Eyes.

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27 The way we advice : From Bitola go to the Holel Molika, at the very entrance of the park.

From there take the marked path.

You’ll need around 4h30 to reach the first lake, ‘Golemo ezero’. There, there is a mountain house where you can spend the night. From this place you can reach the second lake and then climb the summit in more or less 2h30 hours of walking.

The path is marked from the beginning to the end.

Lake Matka Popular way to spend your weekend is to go Lake Matka, a half-hour drive from Skopje. Taxi from the centre costs about 300 MKD. There is a city bus (number 60) that drives there every day. Lake Matka offers amazing wvews and fresh air, churches, monasteries, dozens of caves and la arge number of endemic plants and animals.

Here is great opportunity to try hiking, boating, or climbing. Lake Matka takes care of visitors needs - if you get hungry or thirsty, there are couple of restaurants to satisfy these needs.

Sofia Sormuenen

Blandine Charreau

SKOPJE SUMMER FESTIVAL Each year from June 21, the first day of summer and the “World Day of Music” until July 31 Skopje is the rhythm of the culture. The Skopje summer festival has offered an exceptionally rich and various program including concerts, theatre plays, painting and photograph exhibitions, multimedia projects, opera and ballet performances, and selected film projections. During the hottest summer months, Skopje is an open city hosting various events on its open stages, such as the Skopje Kale Fortress, the River Vardar Wharf, the mystical surroundings of Kapan An and Suli An in the Skop-

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je Old Bazaar, and the city park. Some events take place in museums, city galleries, and theatres.

This year Grande оpening will take place at 20.00 p.m. with exhibition “Love it or Leave it” and the next 40 days residents and visitors will enjoy Skopje’s stunning multimedia projects, exhibitions, theatrical performances. July 4 and 5 are reserved for Blues & Soul Festival, from July 11 Nescafe cinema begins to work.

This is only part of the rich program that Skopje Summer Festival offers this year and you can be a part of this event.

Biljana Bozhinovska

Couch Surfing or Cheap Travel If you have VOICES in your hands and you are a traveler, or at least you are interested in traveling, especially cheap traveling - you are in the right “place”. I’m not going to tell you how to spend your vacation, neither where and how to travel. I have the pleasure to introduce to you the beauty of CouchSurfing (CS). But have you ever heard of CouchSurfing?

No? Yes? You are already a couchsurfer?

That’s great, feel free to write to us and share some of your adventures with our readers.

Or you still don’t know what the CouchSurfing is? Here you will have the answer.

Officially, it is a non-profit organization with web site, open to everyone, where people can search for a couch to surf, or a place to sleep for free. If you ask me, CS is a worldwide network where people from all over the world can get in touch, become friends, share experiences, learn from each other about different cultures, traditions, habits and help each other to travel very cheaply by offering a place to stay. You think it is too good to be

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true? I thought the same.

Probably you have the same questions as I had in the beginning…How to use this “service”? Is it safe? Should I pay to be a couch surfer? First of all, it’s free, you register on the web site, create your profile, describe everything about yourself that you want to share and start searching for your couch. There is a guide on the site that will guide you how to find a host, how to host travelers, even how to get involved in your local CS community, and get in touch with other couchsurfers from your city. And it is totally safe.

Just think that everyone was on your place, as a new couchsurfer, hesitating, asking the same questions, and they decided to do it. You can always read the comments and references about other members. If you don’t like his/ hers characteristics - you don’t accept to host/surf to that person. You don’t have to let everyone stay in your home, as well as you don’t have to host someone first in order to surf. Try it, you’re going to love it.

Feel free to register, become a CS member and enjoy the “beauty” of

ch ou c the of : e S som ut C s e o o b at d say a h s W fer sur “There are no words to describe this amazing community.

Couch surfing changed my life totally and it made me who I am. It opened my eyes and taught me how amazing it is to share, to care and to help out. I’m not a tourist, I’m a COUCHSURFER!” Josh Cahill (United Arab Emirates)

“Couch surfing is not only a web site where finding a host. It is a very large group of people having the same mission: creating a better world.

Couch surfing enables anyone traveling to know new places and meet new people. Both of these two things help to achieve this mission, since mutual knowledge surely clears the way for peace. :)”

Francesca (Italy)

CouchSurfing: www.couchsurfing.org Airport Surfing If in case you cannot find a host on CS (it can happen if you search it last minute), or you’re still not a couchsurfer, you can always try airport surfing…and sleep on the bench at the airport, listening the sound of the cleaning machines, opening door, the security guards walking around and looking at you suspiciously.

Sounds a bit funny, but it is not so bad,; it’s just another option for cheap traveling. It is for free. OK, it is not very comfortable, but it is air-conditioned, and it is safe (maybe not very much for your luggage, but every travel is a risk and adventure, isn’t it?).

The choice is yours.

Enjoy your travel!

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Sanja Paunovska

Share your adventures Way 2 A Dear reader! Do you have an account on Facebook or other web site where you can share information, photos, music with your friends, to see what your friends are up to, etc…? I guess everyone keeps in touch with their friends in a way they want or can do. But you, as a reader of VOICES, you are not just an ordinary reader, are you? Maybe you are a traveler who likes adventures…Let me start over…

Dear Traveler! Do you have an account on Way2A where you can share information about your adventures, photos of your travels, to see where were did your friends go last month and how to get there, etc…? You don’t know about this yet?

blogs and travel journals. With this new service, all travel enthusiasts are able to: share their escapades; review and assess the adventures of other users; meet interesting people with similar experiences and sharing the same passions.

How does it work? First of all, is free of charge. Everyone can sign up and add routes by hand adding some points or import it directly from the GPS device.

Trough Way2A you can also download a route to your GPS device. The 3D view gives you the opportunity to view the route in three-dimensional, very precise picture of the terrain.

Also there are topographic maps (for hiking), street maps or satellite views which might be useful for your travel.

So far, the web site is in English and Polish, but soon will be available in 4 other languages.

Way2A or Your Way To Adventure (www.way2a.com), is an interactive social networking platform for people with passion for traveling, and all those who like to explore new directions and share experiences with others. This web site is based on modern technologies. Includes GPS navigation systems and mapping routes on the map, it gives opportunities for micro

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Sanja Paunovska

BOOK REVIEW: EAT, PRAY, LOVE

A book full of joy, happiness, emotions, spirituality, mystic and fun.

The best tourist guide you want (author: Elizabeth Gilbert) to have for your travel. Memoirs Summer and books! A perfect combina- about journey for search of haption to relax after the hard working days. piness. Four months in Italy, eatThe summer is already here, all you need ing and enjoying life (“Eat”). Three is to take a book and choose your favorite place for reading - on the beach, months in India, finding the spirin your yard, in the park, wherever you ituality (“Pray”) and the rest of the feel comfortable ... so you can enjoy year in Bali, Indonesia, looking for reading and relaxing. “balance” of the two and found love Still hesitating about choosing the (“Love”). Approximately 500 pages right book for your vacation? The of pleasure very easy to read. Words choice is huge, and the right one that will feed your eyes with curioscan be any book you chose. At least ity and make your mind insatiable we can recommend you one, one for exploring. that you should not miss it, really worth to read: As Elizabeth wrote in the book: “We search for happiness everyEAT, PRAY, LOVE: One Woman’s where, but we are like Tolstoy’s faSearch for everything across Italy, bled beggar who spent his life sitIndia and Indonesia. ting on a pot of gold, under him the whole time. Your treasure–your perfection–is within you already.

But to claim it, you must leave the buy c om mot i on of the mind and abandon the desires of the ego and enter into the silence of the heart.”

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Sanja Paunovska

Memories of Guca Guca delirium

From the moment the cannons on the hill across the city are fired – at some pretty unholy time in the morning – you are indulged in an all-out trumpet extravaganza, that’ll make you beg for mercy and scream for more simultaneously.

I remember standing in a discotheque in Groningen (The Netherlands) when two over-muscular, dodgy looking tracksuit meathead types were pointing and looking at me suspiciously. Trying to mind my own business I saw them coming towards me.

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“You were at Guca? “ - Yes. Hence the tshirt.

“That’s awesome… we are from Serbia by the way”.

In 2005 and 2006 we drove to Central Serbia with a group of friends from the Netherlands. At that time we were organizing small and bigger parties in Groningen, thematically linked to South-Eastern Europe. So that basically meant wild dancing, rakija and Balkan Brass DJing by yours truly: DJ Folkoteka Spartak aka DJ Vulkanizer.

Balkan brass or trubaci music has a long tradition in the region, not just in Ex-Yugoslavia. The style of playing is a descendent of the music played

by Ottoman army bands and mostly brought by Roma musicians at occasions like weddings and/or funerals.

The instruments are passed on from father to son and the travelling band is highly important for the family or village income. Today still, some of the most famous fanfares that tour the world support their community with their fees.

Forget Shantel or any other WesternEuropean DJ that prospered during

the Balkan Beats hype in Western almost every Roma community or Europe, replacing complex tradi- village; truly an El Dorado for (eth-

tional rhythms, song structure and tempo with boring dance floorfriendly reggae; these here are the ‘trubaci’ that were born with a trumpet, sousaphone or tuba in their hand. And whether they wanted or not made responsible for a part of the family income. You might’ve heard of Kočani Orkestar (MK), Fanfare Ciocarlia (Ro), Taraf de Haidouks (Ro) and Boban i Marko Markovic Orchestar (Srb).

Boban Markovic is also honorary mayor of Guca.

In South Serbia there are different styles of playing, different rhythms and different (song) traditions in

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no-) musicologists and music lovers. In the period before Guca there a preliminary rounds and smaller festivals to decide which group will represent their village on the Guca Festival, competing for the title of best fanfare and the ‘Golden Trumpet’-trophy.

From the moment the cannons on the hill across the city are fired – at some pretty unholy time every morning – you are indulged in an all-out trumpet extravaganza, that’ll make you beg for mercy and scream for more simultaneously.

And that for four days.

At daytime Guca is turned into one

big market selling everything from toy Kalashnikovs to hats. A true meat-eaters Walhalla, since there is a whole pig roasted around every corner. There is a campsite where you can camp if you make an deal with the owner of the meadow.

During the evening the streets of the (small) village are flooded with large groups of (mostly) men and in the stadium there are concerts and the official competition program.

Some of the stadium program may have an entrance fee. Check the website below for more information (also in English).

Taking token pictures of you hugging, climbing, kissing or impersonating the statue of the man with the trumpet… Dancing on tables...

Perfecting your ‘kolo’ [ basic traditional dance that gets more complicated with excessive alcohol consumption]… watching the parade that include all bands and visiting foreign groups… trubaci music that I remember, or hardly remember, it is the absurd Although the festival, especially quantities of alcohol – beer, rakija during the 90’s and early 00’s, was and whatnot – consumed in the also frequented by large groups of streets of Guca. If you look at the Serbian nationalists – I reckon they groups of Serbians it almost seems still sell plenty of ‘četnik’ hats on the like some sort of rite of passage markets – nowadays there’s plenty in a village that for couple of days of tourists coming to enjoy the ‘best turns into an anachronism, condrinking party in the world’. Be- sidered by romantics the Serbia as cause if there is one thing besides it used to be.

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3 Guca survival tips:

- Go with the flow; everyone is drinking so you might as well; - Some bars are ‘reserved’ for larger groups; go into the café’s, walk upstairs: the bands will also pass by there and play for your party (if paid); - Don’t stay on the festival area all the time, or accept the fact that you’ll overdose on trumpets. The nearby region around Divcibare is beautiful and great for walking.

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Recommended listening Fanfare Ciocarlia – Gili Garabdi Kočani Orkestar – L’Orient est Rouge http://www.guca.rs/eng/

Cry for help

My Kingdom

Photos by Martin Stojanovski

Pelister Eye, Baba Mountain 2280m

Volunteers Centre Skopje

www.vcs.org.mk