Rock Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing

Rock Climbing Basics The Beginner's Guide

Fourth Edition. January 2018

£ Donation Only

Contents

Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

Introduction

4

Preparation

10

Top Rope Climbing

25

Lead Climbing

39

General

53

3

The Climbing Harness Gear Loops These are for clipping gear to, such as quickdraws.

This way, you can take gear with you as you climb.

They're not strong enough to hold your weight, so never clip the rope into them.

Buckle These can be used to adjust the size of your harness for a comfortable and tight fit. It's important that they are fastened correctly (see page 12).

Waist Belt This fastens around the smallest part of your waist.

Elastic These stretchy pieces of fabric help to stop your leg loops from sliding down at the back. They can be adjusted too.

Leg Loops These fasten around the top of your thighs.

Belay Loop This super strong loop connects the waist belt to the leg loops. You use it to belay from (more on this later).

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7

How To Tie In To a Climbing Rope You'll need to tie the end of the rope to your harness before you climb. The best way to do this is using a rethreaded figure of 8 knot.

Step 1 Make a loop about a meter from the end of the rope.

Wrap the end of the rope around the base of the loop, then push the end through the loop.

It's really important that you do it correctly, as this knot is what connects you to the whole climbing system and keeps you safe.

Step 2 You should end up with an '8'. Make sure the knot is around 90cm from the end of the rope. The exact length varies with ropes of different diameters, but you'll soon get used to it.

Step 3 Pass the end of the rope through both of the two points on the front centre of your harness – the same ones your belay loop runs through.

It is important that the rope goes through your harness in exactly the same way as your belay loop does.

90cm

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15

Step 4 Use the end of the rope to 're-trace' the figure of 8 knot. Follow the twists of the rope starting from where the rope joins your harness.

Step 5 Continue following the twists until you end up back at the start of the knot.

Pull the whole thing tight.

Step 6 Make sure the end of the rope is around 25cm long.

If it is shorter, you'll have to untie and start again. After this, you will need to tie a 'stopper knot'. Loop the short section of rope around the main length.

25 c

VDiff – Rock Climbing Basics > Preparation and Technique

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Step 7 Do this twice, with the second loop closer to you than the first.

Step 8 Push the end of the rope through these two loops, away from you.

If you didn't have enough rope left to tie a stopper knot, you'll need to retie the figure of 8 so that you do.

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Step 9 Pull this tight too (make sure it's pushed right up against your figure of 8 knot).

It takes a bit of practise to judge just the right amount of rope from the start, but you'll get used to it soon.

17

Climbing Calls 'Climbing calls' are certain words that climbers use so that everyone knows exactly what is happening, a bit like 'copy' or 'over' on a two-way radio.

These calls may seem a bit excessive standing

when you're standing next to each other at the wall, but they help to avoid any confusion when you're starting out. Once you're 50m away from each other outside and the wind is howling, you'll see why they're essential!

When the climber is ready to climb, they tell the belayer to 'take in' the slack rope.

The belayer pulls the rope through the belay device until it is tight on the climber.

When the rope is tight, the climber tells the belayer 'that's me'. This lets the belayer know that the rope is tight on to the climber and not twisted or stuck anywhere else.

When the belayer is ready to belay, they tell the climber they are 'on belay' and they can 'climb when ready'.

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29

As a final check the climber tells the belayer they are 'climbing'. But the climber doesn't leave the ground until they hear 'OK' from the belayer. Everything's good to go!

If the climber wants a rest, they can tell the belayer to 'take'. The belayer holds the rope tight with both hands and replies 'OK'.

If the climber wants to be lowered down at any point (or if they reach the top), they tell the belayer to 'lower'. The belayer replies 'lowering'. They then lower the climber down.

VDiff – Rock Climbing Basics > Top Rope Climbing

30

Good Belay Technique

Ready to take in, give slack or lock off

Rope fairly tight

Hands correct distance away from belay device

Tight grip on rope

Holding the brake rope in the correct downwards direction

Warning: Keep Hold Of The Rope When you belay you need to keep at least one hand on the brake rope all the time. It is this that stops the climber from falling to the ground.

Letting go of the brake rope is like letting go of the steering wheel while driving on a fast country road.

It's incredibly important that you pay constant attention when belaying and never let go of the brake rope!

VDiff – Rock Climbing Basics > Top Rope Climbing

38

Rock Climbing Basics: Lead Climbing

Photographer: Sam Simpson

Warning: Back-Clipping The rope needs to be clipped through the quickdraw so that the end of the rope attached to you comes out of the front side of the quickdraw. If you fall, the rope will stay clipped through the carabiner.

If you clip it the wrong way round, the rope could snap through the carabiner's gate if you fall. This would unclip the rope from the carabiner. This is known as 'back clipping'.

If you're belaying a leader, keep an eye out for them accidentally back clipping, and let them know if they have!

Warning: Cross-Loading Make sure your carabiners do not become 'cross loaded' when you climb (loaded sideways). Also make sure the carabiner's gate has snapped shut after you've clipped the rope through it. Either of these will make your carabiner much weaker.

Learn more about carabiner strength ratings: www.vdiffclimbing.com/basic-biners Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

43

Clipping The Top Anchor Once you get to the top of the wall, you'll need to clip the rope through the top anchor.

Different walls have different systems for this – some have two snapgate carabiners, some have one or two screwgate carabiners that you'll need to unscrew first. Ask one of the staff before leading if in doubt!

It's important to make sure that the anchor you clip does not have another rope already running through it. Having 2 ropes through the same anchor can damage them.

Once you've clipped your rope through the top anchor, you can be lowered down in the same way as if you were top roping.

However, if you've attached your own quickdraws on the way up, you'll need to collect them on the way down.

Simply lower down, unclipping them from both the bolt and rope and then clipping them back to your gear loops. The belayer will need to stop lowering you at each bolt so you have time to do this.

Pulling The Rope Down When you're pulling a lead rope down, shout 'rope' before it falls, so that everyone around you is expecting it – a falling rope in the head hurts!

Make sure to pull the rope through so that the falling end drops down through the clipped quickdraws – this will slow it down and make it safer.

VDiff – Rock Climbing Basics > Lead Climbing

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Get the Full Version The full version of this e-book is available on a pay-what-you-want pricing system, starting at ÂŁ0.

You can download it for free, or show your support with a small donation.

Get your copy here: https://gumroad.com/l/VDiff

Learn How To: - Use basic climbing gear - Tie into the rope - Belay (lead and top rope) - Climb efficiently - Understand fall potential Plus much more.

Further Information: * Perfect for those who want to start rock climbing. * 100+ accurately drawn, full-colour illustrations. * Strong emphasis on climbing safety. * 63 information-packed pages. * Updated December 2017