7 minute read
VEGVACATION
From hearty British mainstays to global cuisine reflective of the city’s multicultural population, London has reinvented itself as a bona fide vegan capital ripe for the tasting.
by MARGOT BIGG
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LET’S LUNCH IN LONDON
Food might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of London. Mentions of the UK capital may instead conjure up images of double-decker buses quickly casting flashes of vermillion as they whizz past the jagged spires of the Palace of Westminster. Or maybe crowds of suited-up bankers, pints in hands, spilling out of wood-framed pubs onto city sidewalks after a day of work.
Perhaps London makes you long to spend days wandering among museums full of masterpieces or revamp your wardrobe at one of the world’s most celebrated department stores. While London has long been renowned for its art, architecture, and performing arts, for many years, the city had a reputation as a beacon for all flavors bland.
Fortunately, the world is an ever-changing place, and London is now among the best food cities on the planet, especially for vegans who like to eat more than just salads and the occasional hummus wrap. These days, you’ll find everything from classic British foods reimagined for plant-based palates to flavorrich global cuisine—after all, over a third of Londoners were born on foreign shores.
British bites
Start your London culinary exploration the traditional way: with a full English breakfast at The Gallery Café. This down-to-earth spot serves a fully vegan take on Britain’s quintessential morning meal, complete with roasted mushrooms and tomatoes, savory tofu scramble, vegan sausages infused with earthy notes of rosemary, pan-wilted greens, and tangy housemade baked beans—all rounded off with a slice of grilled sourdough bread. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, you may want to opt for something lighter, such as a flaky croissant, so that you can save room for another British custom: Sunday roast.
While plenty of London pubs offer a vegan-friendly Sunday roast option, your best bet is to head to The Spread Eagle, a plantbased pub a couple of miles north of The Gallery Café. Sunday roasts usually consist of roasted root vegetables with something green
▲ Top: Sunday Roasts at The Spread Eagle; Bottom: The Gallery Café English breakfast
thrown in for good measure, plus a protein and a serving of Yorkshire pudding—a fluffy, airy roll similar to a popover. The Spread Eagle follows the old-school format, offering beet Wellingtons enrobed in flaky crusts, hearty roasts made of walnuts and cashews, and crisp potato cracklings, all doused in rich
Gauthier Soho Tower Bridge
Farmacy Thenga Cafe Eat of Eden
gravy and served with a cornbread-esque interpretation of Yorkshire pudding. Even if you can’t make it for Sunday lunch, this classic pub is still worth a visit for its seasonal British and international fare (think artichoke paella and savory pies served with mashed potatoes).
Across town, in swanky Notting Hill, Farmacy takes a food-as-medicine approach, crafting many of their delightful wholefood concoctions from organic, biodynamic produce grown at their very own countryside farm. While their menu is eclectic and worldly—with treats ranging from sweet-andumami miso-roasted eggplant to rich-andcreamy truffle mac and cheese—the folks at Farmacy also pay homage to Britain’s timehonored custom of afternoon tea, served up the traditional way: on a three-tiered cake stand.
While afternoon tea menu options are subject to change with the seasons, you’ll likely find dainty little finger sandwiches with savory fillings such as herby tofu cream cheese on the bottom tier, and maybe even a few miniature quiches stuffed with caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes, and olives. The middle tier is devoted to scones served with whipped vegan butter, rich cashew cream, and sweet fruit preserves, while the top tier is all about tiny desserts
like blueberry lemon tea cake and tropical chocolate parfait.
Global goodies
The UK is home to a thriving South Asian population, and people with roots on the subcontinent have played an integral role in shaping the city’s cultural and culinary fabric for generations. Indian food is hugely popular here, and while many Indian dishes rely on dairy products, you’ll find fully plant-based Desi delights at Thenga Cafe.
Tucked away on the mezzanine level of a YMCA near King’s Cross railway station (Harry Potter’s Platform 93/4, anyone?), this unassuming spot serves homestyle fare made from fresh, healthy ingredients. Try the masala dosas (thin lentil-and-rice-batter crêpes stuffed with meltingly soft potatoes spiced with turmeric and mustard seeds) or go for the thali, a daily set-lunch menu of fluffy rice, warming lentils, and seasonal vegetables. Wash it all down with a mango lassi, a cool, sweet drink made with plantbased yogurt.
To get to your next meal, hop on the Victoria line of the London Underground and don’t get off until you reach Brixton, a major hub for London’s Caribbean community. Take a walk down to Electric Avenue’s Brixton Market to shop for global housewares, listen to the thundering bass of a dub soundsystem at a local club, and make a beeline to Eat of Eden to sample some of the best Caribbean
Trafalgar Square
Piccadilly Circus Brixton Market
fare outside of the West Indies. Come with an appetite so that you can make a dent in one of Eden’s massive sampler platters, which include Ital (plant-based Rastafarian) options such as hearty chickpea curry, callaloo (a spinach-like green), and fragrant pumpkin and sweet potato curry. Make sure to try the ackee, a nutty Jamaican fruit that’s perfect for savory scrambles.
Finish your evening with a fancy night out in the West End theater district at Gauthier Soho, which brings fine-dining flavors from across the English Channel to London diners. Founded in 2010 by Michelin-starred French chef and restaurateur Alexis Gauthier, this upscale spot took a turn for the best in 2021, going fully vegan all the way down to the wine menu.
For the full experience, reserve a seat at the Grand Dîner, a 10-course presentation of seasonal French fare, starting with delicate canapés and culminating in decadent desserts. If you want to try some of Europe’s finest vegan wines, the sommelier wine pairing menu won’t disappoint. If you’d rather save a little cash, reserve a 5 o’clock slot for the abridged, seven-course Petit Dîner menu, which will get you well-fed and out of Gauthier in time to make it to a night of musical theater at one of the many West End venues nearby.
Lovely London
From the architectural and historic marvels of Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, and Tower Bridge to the can’t-miss experiences at Piccadilly Circus, Natural History Museum, and the shoppers’ paradise that is Oxford Street—there is no shortage of incredible things to do and see for lovers of art, history, and culture in London. And thankfully, for vegans, this cosmopolitan city is proving itself a capital for high-quality, tantalizing plantbased cuisine, too. After discovering the diversity of flavors and culinary experiences that London has to offer even the pickiest of diners, you’ll likely be counting the days until you can come back for more.
MARGOT BIGG is a Portland-based travel writer who loves discovering something new every time she visits London.
Bring it HOME
Whether you’re looking for the perfect holiday gift to bring back home or just want to continue your culinary experience from the comfort of your own kitchen, London’s got you covered. Save room in your suitcase for one (or all) of these tasty treats.
SAY CHEEZ
For something savory, head to plant-based cheesemonger La Fauxmagerie, the first of its kind in the UK. Here you can pick up all sorts of cheese, from Stilton to Camembert. They also offer sampler bundles so you won’t have to choose just one.
SWEET SOUVENIRS
Vegan chocolatier Copperhouse Chocolate puts a plant-based spin on artisanal chocolate, with plenty of rich dark varieties along with a few reimagined takes on milk and white varieties. Take home a pouch of hot cocoa mix in creative flavors such as gingerbread or cinnamon-rose or opt for a more traditional box of assorted chocolates.
HOLIDAY HAMPER
Get into the yuletide spirit in style with a vegan hamper from Fortnum & Mason. The predecessor of the gift basket, food-filled wicker hampers have been an integral part of the holidays in the UK for generations. Hampers from Fortnum’s are among the poshest in the land, and a couple are entirely vegan, down to their faux-leather straps.
