HUPARI SILVER JEWELLERY: Craft Cluster by vermapriya110996

Abstract

ocumentation of the CraftCluster study done by Fashion and Lifestyle Accessory students of National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Mumbai on Silver Jewellery- Hupari in the academic year 2018. Through an in-depth study of the processes, techniques, current scenarios of the craft and the socio- economic conditions of the craftsmen and interaction with the crafts people. This cluster intervention sensitised the students towards the craft and the artisans. It was also aimed to give an insight into regional sensibilities, diversities, resources and environment. Further the intervention provided a window to the students on methods to work in the craft sector with artisans and aid them to promote themselves through various means of design and technology that they have learnt. The visit of Hupari kindled the sense of appreciation for not just beautiful crafts but also those without whom our countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich culture would merely be another chapter in history. The most riveting part of travelling to Hupari is the journey through rural roads and watching craftsmen doing the most precise work. Each rural area has a harmony in every element present in atmosphere. Work set up and shop areas were all in one house space, it was clean and neatly organised too.

Acknowledgement

e are grateful to all the esteemed members of Chandi Karkhandar (Udhyojak) Association Hupari for providing us an opportunity to do research work on Craft and Cluster development â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Hupari Silver Craft. We express our whole hearted thanks to all the craftsmen and people involved in silver craft at Hupari, who have guided and supervised us throughout this study and for their encouragement and their morale support in understanding the existing system. We would like to express our gratitude to all those who enable us to complete this project. We want to thank Miss Pallavi Mam and Sudeepta sir of the department of Lifestyle and Accessory design, NIFT â&#x20AC;&#x201C;MUMBAI. Also would like to thanks the Department for giving us permission to commence this research in the first instance and to do the necessary research work. Last, but always the most important, we will always stay indebted to our parents who committed themselves to our growth and success enabling us to undertake all challenges and endeavours, big or small.

Content

Introduction - Silver and its overview We the newer generation of millennial are in the modern age of technology and it is foreseeable that it is likely going to change. Craft is …….

History - About the craft

Government Schemes

Training of artisans

India is the land of diversity and distinctive, art, craft and heritage. These arts and crafts are passed on from generation to generation. It……

Manufacturing Process

Costing

7 8 9 10 11 12

Business Structure We the newer generation of millennial are in the modern age of technology and it is foreseeable that it is likely going to change. Craft is …….

Labour India is the land of diversity and distinctive, art, craft and heritage. These arts and crafts are passed on from generation to generation. It……

Marketing Strategies

Packaging and storage

Swot Analysis and Design

Suggestions and Conclusion

INTRO

DUCTION We the newer generation of millennial are in the modern age of technology and it is foreseeable that it is likely going to change. Craft is lagging behind with time. Many are moving from villages to cities and leaving their tradition and old profession in hopes of adopting the modern lifestyle, for better future. The art and craft artisan are also moving to new avenues to earn their livelihood, in place of modernising their art and craft manufacturing, marketing and supply chain they are opting to work elsewhere. T

There is a need for us to protect the art and craft of our country. The government is also working scrupulously through various initiatives taken by the Ministry of Textiles. There are several programs to promote the art craft industry and cluster development. Ministry of Textiles with the inclusion of NIFT is organising craft clusters across India throughout its 15 centre into various art and craft. To these places student interact with the artisans by providing them with market development plan, modernising plan and quality control measures and issues. The objective of the Hupari silver cluster is to know the evolution of craft, the process they utilize current stand point, distribution networks and promotional mix and perhaps give them some inÂŹput of our knowledge.

There was a time in India when an Indian woman walks, the people around recognises that she belongs to a particular community due to the jingling sounds produced repeatedly as she move due to the Payal (anklets or leg ornament) that she wears on her feet, making diﬀerent sounds. As per the tradition of India, it is important that a woman wears the ornaments on her ear, feet, hand, neck, fingers, waist, and forehead and covers her head with a veil (cloth) when the elders are around her as a sign of respect to them. Silver ornaments like anklets, bangles etc, are widely used among many communities in south India as it is aﬀordable compare to gold ornaments. Silver ornaments like payals (anklets)/ made in Hupari village of Kolhapur district in Maharashtra. Hupari village is about 24 kms from the city of Kolhapur surrounded by other villages like [Pattankodoli, Rendal and Vasagade] which also works on the silver ornaments. Most of the people in this village work in their houses, converting their living room to working areas during the working time (day time) and rest of the time they convert it to the living room. Most of the houses in this village are occupied with the art of making the silver ornaments. It is believed this art of making the silver ornaments was taught by Aman Rao Krishna Ji Poddar in 1950, who relocated to this village from Kolhapur city. At the beginning he trained few people in order to support him in the completion of his orders, later they trained many others and the art of making the silver ornaments spread across this village. Gajashri, Roopali, Chunchung, Kandroae, Thrisula etc. are well known designs of payals made in Hupari village.

Generally leg ornaments are light and hollow, however “Kadaga” is also a leg or can be like a bangle that are heavy and solid with chain bands fringed with little bells, spiral coils or consecutive rings one over other encircling the hand or feet, which is especially the privilege of an (Indian) women. Payal consists of two to five strings made up of small, large medallions with beads of diﬀerent shapes (like round, cylindrical, barrelshaped and ribbed) and also multi colour rings.

Need for cluster project India is the land with diversity and distinctive art, craft and heritage. These arts and craft are passed on from generation to generation. It is specific to a particular region like patola from patan(gujrat). Paithani saree from paithan (Maharashtra) etc. These craft are produced by artisans in village who are proficient in their particular art. This art is like their family business. They learn this art as part of their tradition to earn their livelihood. In this modern age of electronics, art and craft is lagging behind time. People are moving from village to cities leaving their tradition and old profession behind adopting modern lifestyle. The art and craft artisan are also moving to new avenues to earn their livelihood. Instead of modernising their art and craft manufacturing, marketing and supply chain they are opting to work elsewhere.

Government initiatives for protecting craft In order to protect art, craft and heritage of our country, the government of India is working meticulously through various initiatives taken by various ministries like Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Rural Development, and Ministry of tourism etc. There are several programs to promote the art and craft industry and cluster development is one of them.

initiatives across India through its 15 centres into diďŹ&#x20AC;erent art and craft. The cluster initiatives taken by NIFT Mumbai are at Surendranagar (Gujarat), Hupari(Maharashtra) etc. In this cluster program the NIFT centres send its students from various departments like Master of Design space, Fashion Management studies, Fashion communication etc. To these places students interact with artisan know their art and craft & understand their skills. After doing research work the students help the artisans by providing them with market development plan, modernisation plan, Quality control measures and issues, fund raising and fund management, awareness of government scheme etc.

Objective of cluster The objective for the Hupari silver cluster were to know the history, evolution of craft, various products, their price point, technology, production system manpower level, current price points, distribution networks and current promotion mix.

NIFT and cluster Ministry of textiles with the help of National institute of fashion technology is running cluster

ABOUT

THE CRAFT Jewellery in India has been an unbroken tradition for over 5,000 years. Such is the skill of Indian jewellers that with time, the real flowers and leaves used by our ancestors inspired them to recreate the gifts of nature in gold and silver. In early India, people handcrafted jewellery out of natural materials found in abundance all over the country. Seeds, feathers, leaves, berries, fruits, flowers, animal bones, claws and teeth; everything from nature was aďŹ&#x20AC;ectionately gathered and artistically transformed into fine body jewellery. Even today such jewellery is used by the diďŹ&#x20AC;erent tribal societies in India. Excavations at Mohenjo-Daro and other sites of the Indus Valley civilisation have unearthed a wealth of handmade ornaments. It appears that both men and women of that time wore jewellery made of gold, silver, copper & precious and semi-precious stones.

The history of Indian jewellery can be traced back to a very ancient time. From the excavation of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro, jewelleries of geometrical and flora designs were found, besides, mentions of various kinds of silver ornaments are found in ‘Rig Veda’ Referring to cultural milieu of Indus valley civilisation, It is found that jewellers were exported to Sumer, Egypt and Troy as back as 3000 BC, The glorious jewellery making art has been related to Indian philosophy, religion, Culture, aesthetic sense, rituals, and social way of life Marvellous workmanship could be seen in diﬀerent media and silver became the base of all types of jewelleries including modern jewellery. Of late, as women have started wearing jewelleries made in terracotta, wood and stone media, all of which have a high demand, the precious pure white silver metal has been

preferred by the smith community next to gold. The artisan of Hupari has been making silver jewellery for about more than century. Silver craft producing area- Panipat (Haryana), Udaipur (Rajasthan), Rajkot(Gujarat), Hathras, Lucknow, Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Kolhapur (Maharashtra), Salem (Tamil Nadu), Cuttack (Orissa).

ABOUT

THE PLACE Hupari is also known as Silver Nagri. Hupari is town which is around 20km from Kolhapur city. Entire village is into silver jewellery manufacturing since past 100 years. The story of Hupari silver jewellery goes back to the first decade of this century, precisely the year 1904, in that year Krishanji Ram Chandra sonar switched over to making ornaments in silver from gold. He would have hardly imagined that his silver craftsmanship would one day rise to such a height that within the next four decades it would make Hupari synonymous with silver smiting. Hupari is a census town in Kolhapur district in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Hupari comes under Hathkanangle taluka..

Evolution of the Craft 1904

First manufacturing unit of silver jewellery established.

1940

Small scale industry machinery installed and manufacturing of sakhali, torde, Kad-dore etc was developed.

1944

Chandi Karkhandar Udhyojak Association established.

1947

Association register under Chandi Association Society Act.

1948

Wages of 1 anna and silver exchange system established.

1972

Chandi kharkhandar Udhyojak association, Hupari was erected and inaugurated their administrative building.

2001

Member of association were allotted 200 acre of land in Kagal, Hathkanangle, Industrial area which was declared as silver zone, Hupari.

2001

Association participated in silver exhibition opened by central government in New Delhi.

2007

Government recognised cluster yojna..

Demographics •

As of 2001 India census Hupari had a population of 28,229.

•

Males constitute 51% of the population and females 49%.

•

Hupari has an average literacy rate of 70%, higher than the national average of 59.5%:

•

Male literacy is 76%, and female literacy is 62%.

•

In Hupari, 12% of the population is under 6 years of age.

•

The regional language of Hupari is Marathi

Silver & its overview

what are the physical properties of Silver? What are the Chemical Properties of Silver? The physical properties of Silver are the characteristics that can be observed without changing the substance into another substance. Physical properties are usually those that can be observed using our senses such as colour, lustre, freezing point, boiling point, melting point, density, hardness and odour. The Physical Properties of Silver are as follows: What are the Physical Properties of Silver?What are the Chemical Properties of Silver? They are the characteristics that determine how it will react with other substances or change from one substance to another. The better we know the nature of the substance the better we are able to understand it. Chemical properties are only observable during a chemical reaction. Reactions to substances may be brought about by changes brought about by burning, rusting, heating, exploding, tarnishing etc. The Chemical Properties of Silver are as follows: What are the Chemical Properties of Silver?  Chemical - Formula Ag  Reactivity - Silver does not react with O2, N2, or H2 at normal temperatures  Oxidation -A thin lm on the surface of silver as a result of oxygen absorption that increases with temperature and pressure  Compounds Silver forms complex compounds, most of which are soluble in water

Production of silver in India About production, Mexico is the largest producer of Silver while USA is the largest consumer.â&#x20AC;¨ In India, production of Silver is held predominantly in Rajasthan, which accounts for 87% of net production in the nation. Rest is produced mostly in Karnataka and undivided Andhra Pradesh. Zawar mines in Udaipur is the largest silver producing mine in the country. The major markets in India are Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Jaipur. However, India had produced 207 tons of Silver in 2011â&#x20AC;&#x201C;12.This is less than 2% of total world production.

HISTORY About production, Mexico is the largest producer of Silver while USA is the largest consumer. In India, production of Silver is held predominantly in Rajasthan, which accounts for 87% of net production in the nation. Rest is produced mostly in Karnataka and undivided Andhra Pradesh. Zawar mines in Udaipur is the largest silver producing mine in the country. The major markets in India are Mumbai, Ahmedabad and Jaipur. However, India had produced 207 tons of Silver in 2011â&#x20AC;&#x201C;12.This is less than 2% of total world production

Kolhapur city situated in the south-west corner of Maharashtra, India. Kolhapur, or as it seems to have been formerly called Karavir, is probably one of the oldest religious and trade centres in western India. In the Karavir or Kolhapur Mahatmya or account of the greatness of Kolhapur, Kolhapur is mentioned as the Kasi or Banaras of the South. City situated on the banks of river Panchganga. Kolhapur is a blend of ancient tradition and modern in sequence.. In 1945, excavations on the Brahmapuri in Kolhapur revealed the existence of an ancient town dat- ing back to the Roman era. Kolhapur had diﬀerent dynasties ruling it in the past, but it was under the rule of the Marathas that it became a cultural hub.  Area of Kolhapur district-66.82 sq.ft kms Population of Kolhapur-3523162 and that of city is 485183 Literacy rate- 76% People of Kolhapur are generally referred to as ‘Kolhapur’ or ‘Kolhapurkar’. The main language spoken here is Marathi, apart from that Hindi, Urdu, Gujarati, Kananda is used. Kolhapur city is on the banks of River Panch- ganga and reacts a rich heritage along with a fast growing industrial town. Its importance as a commercial centre is well known. Kolhapur is a big market for jaggery (Gull) of which the district is a very large producer. Origin of silver craft in Hupari Hupari is also known as Silver Nagari since 13th century In 1400-1500 A.D. Goddess Ambabai temple was erected by villagers

The villagers believe that the actual progress began only after the temple was built. It started with a regular demand for silver ornaments from the Kolhapur royalty. During festivals, elephants and horses were clothed with silver. Skilled workers of the village used to make diﬀerent types of design jewellery for the royal family of Kolhapur. The silver jewellery especially of Hupari is payal or anklet. of varied length Evolution of Silver jewellery1904- First manufacturing unit of silver jewellery established. 1940- Small scale industry machinery installed and manufacturing of sakhali, torde, Kadore etc. was developed.

Chandi Karkhandar Association

fter word war II, in 1944 approx. 60 to 70 workers came together and formed Hupari Chandi Karkhander Association.â&#x20AC;¨ The main objective of this association was to give opportunity to new entrepreneur of association was to give opportunity to new entrepreneurs & strongly build association. New comers in this industry were provided all short of cooperation by giving silver on credit with a condition that he should be known to some local people There is no any written agreement in the business but only oral commitment. â&#x20AC;¨ 70% of Hupariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people & 30% of nearly village totally depend on this handmade silver industry. In Hupari there are 40% women employees. Total turnover of Hupari is 1000 Cr & is growing at the rate of 5% p.a

Government

INITITATIVE Small scale industries have emerged as a dynamic and vibrant sector of the economy during eighties. At the end of the seventh plan period, it accounted for nearly 35% of the gross value output in the manufacturing sector and over 40% of total exports from the country. It also provided employment to around 12 million people. • e primary objective of the Small Scale Industry Policy during the nineties would be to impart more vitality and growth-impetus to the sector to enable it to contribute its mite fully to the economy, particularly in terms of growth of output, employment and exports sector has been substantially delicensed. Further it should be made to deregulate & de-bureaucratise the sector with a view to remove all fetters on its growth potential,  reposing greater faith in small & young entrepreneurs. All statutes, regulations and procedures would be reviewed and modi ed, wherever  necessary, to ensure that their operations do not militate against the interests of small and  village enterprises.

Government have already announced increase in the investment limits in plant & machinery of small scale industries, ancillary units and exports oriented units to Rs 6 million, & Rs200 thousand respectively. Such limits in respect of TINY ENTERPRISES would now be increased from the present, irrespective of location of the unit. Limit in plant & machinery for determining the status of SSI/Ancillary units as on date Rs 10 million. For tiny it is Rs2.5 million & for SSSBE Rs500 thousand. • Service sub-sector is a fast growing area & there is a need to provide support to it in view of its recognised potential for generating employment. Hence all industry related service & business enterprises, recognised as small scale industries & their investment selling would correspond to those of tiny enterprises. It has also been decided to widen the scope of the national equity fund scheme to cover projects up to Rs1 million for equity support (up to 15%). Single window loan scheme has also being enlarged to cover project up to Rs2 billion as working capital. Margin up to Rs 1million. Composite loan under single window scheme now available only through state financial corporation (SFCs) and twin function state small  industries development corporation (SSIDCs), would also be channelized through commercial  banks. is would facilitate access to large number of entrepreneurs.

In spite of the vast domestic market, marketing remains a problem area for small enterprises. Mass consumption labour intensive products are predominantly being marketed by the organised sector. e tiny/small scale sector will be enabled to have a significant share of such markets. In addition to the existing support mechanism, market promotion would be undertaken through cooperative/public sector institution, other specialised/professional marketing agencies & consortia approach, backed up by such incentives, as considered necessary. • National Small Industries Corporation (NSIC) would concentrate on marketing of mass consumption items under common brand name and organic links between NSIC & SSIDCs would be established. • Government recognises the need to widen and deepen complementarily in production programmes of large/medium and small industrial sectors. Parts, components, subassemblies, etc. required by large public/private sector undertakings would be encouraged for production in a techno economically to viable manner through small scale ancillary units. Industry association would be encouraged to established sub-contracting exchanges in addition to strengthening once under the SIDO. Emphasis would also be laid on promotion of viable and competitive component market. rough the small scale sector is making significance contribution to t control would be total export, both direct and indirect, a large potential remains untapped. e SIDO has been recognised as a nodal agency to support the small scale industry in export promotion.

An export development centre would be setup in SIDO to serve the small scale industries through its network to further augment export activities of this sector.  Modernisation, Technological & Quality Upgradation  • A greater degree of awareness to produce goods & services confirming national & international standards would be created among the small scale sector. • Industry association would be encouraged and supported to establish quality counselling & common testing facilities. Technology information centre to provide upgrade acknowledge on technology & markets would be established. • Where non-conformity with quality and standards involves risk to human  life and public health, compulsory quality control would be enforced. • A reoriented programme of modernisation and technological up-gradation aim improving productivity efficiency and cost effectiveness in the small scale sector would be p u r s u e d . S p e c i fi c i n d u s t r i e s i n l a r g e concentrations or clusters would be identified for studies in conjunctions with SIDBI and other banks. Such studies will establish commercial viability off modernisation prescription, and financial support would be provided for modernisation of these industries on a priority basis. • Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) and selected regional other engineering colleges will serve as technological information design and development centre in their respective command areas.

Financial Supports Measure •

•

Inadequate access to credit- go short term & long term remains perennial problem facing the small scale sector. Emphasis would hence fourth shift from subsidised/cheap credit, expect for specified target groups, and eﬀorts would be made to ensure both adequate flow of credit on a normative basis, and the quality of its delivery, for viable operations of this sectors. A special monitoring agency would be set up to oversee that the genuine credit needs of the small scale sector are fully met. To provide access to the capital market & to encourage modernisation & technological up gradation, it has been decided to allow equity participation by other industrial undertakings in the SSI, not exceeding 24% of the total shareholding. This would also provide a powerful boost to sub-contracting, leading to expansion of employment opportunities. Regulatory provisions relating to the management of provide limited companies are being liberalised. A Limited Partnership Act will be introduced to enhance the supply of risk capital to small scale sector. Such an Act would limit the financial liability of the new & non active partners/entrepreneurs to the capital invested. Infrastructure Facilities To facilitate location of industries in rural or backward area & to promote stronger linkages between agriculture & industries, a new scheme of integrated infrastructure development (including technological backup services) for small scale industries would be implemented with the active participating of state government & financial institution. A beginning in this direction will be made this year itself. The technology development cell (TDC) would be setup in the small industries development organisation (SIDO) which would provide technology input to improve productivity & competitiveness of the products of the small scale sectors parts the TDC would coordinate the activities of the tools rooms, process cum product development centres (PPDCs) existing as well as Modernisation, Technological & Quality Upgradation

• •

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to be established under SIDO, and would also interact with other industrial research in development organisation to achieve its objectives. Adequacy & equitable distribution of indigenous & imported raw materials would be ensured to the small scale sector, particularly the tiny subsector policies would be so designed that they do not militate against entry of new units. Based on the capacity needs tiny or small scale units would be given priority in allocation of indigenous raw materials. Marketing Exports In spite of the vast domestic market, marketing remains a problem area for small enterprises. Mass consumption labour intensive products are predominantly being marketed by the organised sector. The tiny/small scale sector will be enabled to have a significant share of such markets. In addition to the existing support mechanism, market promotion would be undertaken through cooperative/public sector institution, other specialised/professional marketing agencies & consortia approach, backed up by such incentives, as considered necessary. National Small Industries Corporation (NSIC) would concentrate on marketing of mass consumption items under common brand name and organic links between NSIC & SSIDCs would be established. Government recognises the need to widen and deepen complementarily in production programmes of large/medium and small industrial sectors. Parts, components, subassemblies, etc. required by large public/private sector undertakings would be encouraged for production in a techno economically to viable manner through small scale ancillary units. Industry association would be encouraged to established sub-contracting exchanges in addition to strengthening once under the SIDO. Emphasis would also be laid on promotion of viable and competitive component market. Through the small scale sector is making significance contribution to t control would be

•

• •

•

total export, both direct and indirect, a large potential remains untapped. The SIDO has been recognised as a nodal agency to support the small scale industry in export promotion. An export development centre would be setup in SIDO to serve the small scale industries through its network of field officer to further augment export activities of this sector. A greater degree of awareness to produce goods & services confirming national & international standards would be created among the small scale sector. Industry association would be encouraged and supported to establish quality counselling & common testing facilities. Technology information centre to provide upgrade acknowledge on technology & markets would be established. Where non-conformity with quality and standards involves risk to human life and public health, compulsory quality control would be enforced. A reoriented programme of modernisation and technological up-gradation aim improving productivity efficiency and cost effectiveness in the small scale sector would be pursued. Specific industries in large concentrations or clusters would be identified for studies in conjunctions with SIDBI and other banks. Such studies will establish commercial viability of modernisation prescription, and financial support would be provided for modernisation of these industries on a priority basis. Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) and selected regional other engineering colleges will serve as technological information design and development centre in their respective command areas. Promotion of Entrepreneurship Government will continue to support 1st generation entrepreneurs through training and will support their efforts. Large number of EDP trainers and motivators will be trained significantly expand the entrepreneurship development programmes. Industry association would also be encourage participating in this venture effectively. EDP would be built into curricula of vocational and other degree level courses. Women entrepreneurs will receive support through special training program.

•

degree level courses. Women entrepreneurs will receive support through special training program. Definition of women enterprises would be simplified. The present stipulation regarding employment of majority of women workers would be dispensed with the units in which women entrepreneur have a majority shareholding.

About the Artisans Maruti Laxmi Nagesh Age : 46yrs Working experience: 10 years Qualification: Intermediate, also did a course in home science for one year.â&#x20AC;¨ â&#x20AC;¨ Laxmi works for her uncles business of Silver Payal for the past 10 years. She is now a skilled artisan and works for 8 hours a day. She gets paid by Per piece method. She is a single mother, has a 19 year old son who wants to peruse marketing so that he can help expand the family business. She has studies Home Science from a home college class in Kolhapur city. She celebrates all the Maharashtrian festivals, especially Navratri. She does to her village in Satara once a year with her son to visit her maternal side of the family during Navratri. She is happy with her job and enjoys her profession. She is able to single handily supported her family.â&#x20AC;¨

About the Artisans Ravi Akshay Pawar Age: 35 yrs Working experience:25 years Qualification : Graduation, Post-graduation in Marketingâ&#x20AC;¨ â&#x20AC;¨

He has 1son and 1 daughter. He has studies Marketing only to help his fathers business. This business that his Grand father started is now a family profession. He has now been working for the past 25 years, soon to be heading the business as his father wants to retire and stay in the village. His son is also interested in this business, even though he wants him to explore other fields . Akshay sir helped us explore the craft, village and the people. He is smart and educated and is well- versed in speaking English. He also selfdesigns his companies brochure and posters. He has a working website and is active on social media.

Tools and raw

MATERIALS Following are the tools and raw materials used in the hand crafted Hupari Jewellery which is careful extensive process.

Tools

Hammer Iron Press

Mixer

Piler

Mould Shape

Shaping Tools

Mould Shape Shaping Tools 27

Machines

Cutting Machine

Pasta Making

Grinder

Weighing Scale

Measuring Scale

Iron Rod: For segregating ornaments to avoid the stickiness. Flame Torch: It is used to heat the silver to annealing temperature, for all soldering or melting metal casting Metal Tray: To spread the wooden ash powder. Pliers (Katari): They are used to cut the ornaments. Parallel Pliers (Gava): Parallel pliers are used to holding piece of silver level for lining and for keeping close.  Pliers (Pakad): Comes in diﬀerent range and sizes and are used to bend sharp corners in wires silver plate.  Iron Tongs (Sawan): They are holders used to hold crucibles while casting process and also for safer and easier handling. Meena Colour: is colour is basically used for applying on anklet to give voguish look. • Hardener: It is mixed with Meena to make thin paste to apply on anklet. Wooden Ash: Absorbs the excess flame away from the work bench while soldering.

Needle: To mix Meena colour.. Vibrator: It is (electro plating) for polishing. Rough Polish: Used to rub on the products for getting striking shining. Gauge Plate: It is used to check the diameter of wire or to produce different pro le.  Dies Cutting/Press Tool Machine: ere are different types of dies as per the requirement. Rolling Down: It is primarily used to decrease the thickness of silver Crucible: Different sizes of crucibles are used to melt the silver Hammer: It is used to stretch the silver. Moulds used to pour the melting liquid of silver to make rods. Soldering Material: By heating a gola (mixture) of borax, nav-sagar with water and copper sulphate. Silver Biscuits: Silver biscuits are converted into silver rods and further converted to thin sheets to make the silver articles. Pressing Machine: is is used to convert the silver biscuits into thin sheets

Manufacturing

PROCESS Silver blocks or the waste silver strips of the required weight are melted in terracotta pots (for small quantity) and crucible (for big quantity) with charcoal and coal locally called as bhatti (melting). It is usually preferred to be done in the early morning to avoid the heat during the day especially in afternoon. Generally small quantity (30kgs) of silver is melted in terracotta pots. Casting frames are coated with groundnut oil to which the molten material is poured and allowed to set in the form of rods. Silver rods are immersed in water and placed in the rolling machine to form strips of silver and silver wire (thar) for design cutting process. Soot machines (locally called) are also used to make thin long rods and led to square, round and rectangle shapes. As per the required designs the strips and wires are passed through the press tool machine (mixture) of borax, nav-sagar with water and copper sulphate.

Further, the two parts of the pattern of designs of the payal (string & beads) are joined by adding the us (soldered material) in between by coating with the soldering material made by heating a gola (mixture) of borax, nav-sagar with water and copper sulphate. A er all the parts are arranged, the material is heated through a flame torch (burner) at about 700 degree which is generally referred to as Jaali process. During the Jaali process the material turns blacker and payals are rough polished in a drum contains soap nut solution, ber balls and water for about half an hour to obtain a sliver finish. Only on the required parts of the ornament it is coloured with enamels locally called as meena colour which is usually brought from Agra. A er each color is applied on the ornament it is dried absolutely in the bhatti (drying using electric bulbs) made by the artisan, then the next colour is applied on it and dried. e silver products are further polished in the electroplating vibrator to give the final finish.â&#x20AC;¨

Manufacturing process for Anklet 1.

Testing for purity- 3 to 4 gm of the alloy is taken, then 200 m.gm. Is cut and tested. It is known as Tunch. Chemicals used are Ammonium , Thycynade, Ammonium, Phosphoric, sulphate. Silver dissolves in the acid and impurities remain. Distilled water is added in the mixture. 400 ml of solution is taken in pipette and added to the mixture till the colour turns to milky and precipitate forms. If the silver does not dissolve initially then it is heated till it dissolves. Colour change with reaction. Then separation of silver comes out from impurities.

2. Melting silver- Heated at certain temperature and added mixture of copper and zinc are melted in a ceramic container in which alloy is melted. Crucible (moos) is the container made up of ceramic in which alloy is melted. After silver is melted into the ceramic bowl with utmost care it is taken out by the operator and melted silver is poured into wooden moulds. 25 kgs of silver bricks are melted in one Bhatti at a time. Cotton wool and fire bricks ate used as fire controllers at 1500 degree celsius. LPG cylinder, hammer, saliya and chimata are used. It takes 40 minutes in melting the bricks and 2 minutes for 3. Making of pasta- Pasta is a flat, black or thick wire which is made from silver rods. Pastas are prepared by pressing the rods. After melting the silver rod is prepared, then it is passed between the rollers (pasta making machine) according to the thickness requirement. Pastas are those flat rods on which the design of the payal would be cut. Pasta could be 20, 21, 22 gauge in weight ( half kg ). 5. Sourcing the silver bricks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Use recycled silver and source it from nearby retailers. Jewellers who give orders provide them with silver.

Process of wire- In this stage more fine wires are produced. Wires are set in the gauge according to the requirement of the diameter of wire And then wires are wound on a roller. Gauge has holes ranging from 17 to 30. This process is called Mati cutting. It takes one and a half hours for rolling 1 kg wire. Rati is used for rolling the wires and wire drawing machines for drawing wires. Number patti is used for measurement.

6 Making of kadi & ghungroo- The wire which has been a sheen and a finish, is passed through this cutting machine for making of kadi, Ghungroo and balls are those parts of a payal which is used to join the diďŹ&#x20AC;erent parts of the payal and to make one single payal. Die cutting machine is used for making ghungroo. It takes only 1 minute making 100 ghungroo. 7

Cutting & attaching- Cutting machine used for designing ghungraoo. Mati cutting is done for attaching the chain. Loops and ball are made. Chains are made with adjoining the wire from previous step. Power press machines are being used for this process. Punching machines are used which are operated by legs.

Die cutting- Patterns are engraved with the help of roller and stamping machines. Designs are cut as per requirement and the soldering is done. Dies are made in Rajkot. Die cutting machines are used for making ghungroo. Silver sheets are used as raw material in this process. 10 types of dies are used for ghungroo making. Dies are also handmade on lathe and drilling machine.

Assembling- Square clip ( chain ) - copper, zinc, silver, used to attach ghunghroo. Khar- white mixture acts as an adhesive. Soil used so that the jewellery stays in place before soldering. 2000 ghungroos are assembled with chains in a day. Water is being sprayed on the soil to make assembling easier.

10 Soldering-The pieces are joined with the help of soldering. Mixture of zinc and takankhaar also called as morchud. Material and tools are used in soldering are boric acid, hydromax, methyl gas and soldering gun. Stainless steel(Daag) is used for this purpose. The temperature at which the payals are are soldered is 800 degree Celsius. 6000-8000 ghungroo can be soldered in a day and it takes about 30 minutes for 2000 ghungroos. 11

Electroplating- Electroplating of silver on materials is outsourced to some other person. Silver plating water is being poured and left for some time. It is then washed with water.This is the only step which the Artisan do not own at his place. It takes around 2 hours for every 10 kg.

12 Polishing- The dried material is then polished in the Vibrator. They use easily available Tipol shampoo for the purpose. Stainless steel balls are used inside the vibrator to polish. Then the material is rinsed thoroughly. It takes around 20 minutes for this process.

13 Oxidation- Once the oxidisation is done the materials are then dried at the artisans place.It is exposed to the sunlight for half an hour. They use normal black 99 Camlin ink for colouring the material black.

14 Meenakari- Done by a normal thin panit brush ( 0 number brush) with liquid colours called ‘‘Meena Casting Colours’’. After applying the paints, they are dried in a dryer i.e., a box with many bulbs which heats up and helps the colour to dry quickly. Generally the colour dried in sunlight but the weather is rainy & humid so dryer is used.

Product

RANGE Silver ornaments are an art form in which diﬀerent designs are cut individually to the desired size or shapes and assembled to form an object. It is a unique art which requires expert craftsmanship to produce silver products that are attractively designed to create varied range of products with intricate and magni cent patterns. is unique art form is done only in Hupari Village. e price of silver anklets start from the range of Rs1000 to Rs3000.

• Statues of Gods and Goddess • Incense Stick Holders  • Wick Lamp  • Karpur Aarti or Camphor Burners, are some of the products of silver

• Silver Anklets: Silver anklets that catch fancy at once. Embellished with Green and Red colour Meena studded, and gives the beauteous design and sheen. These anklets look very attractive made from silver have an excellent durable finish as well. e beads are polished to give a gleaming look. • Waist Chain (Kamar-Patti): females and children of artisans,  33

Products we developed

Process of developing

Design

he speciality of silver jewellery of Hupari is payal or anklet of various typeof length and design. Hupari is also famous for the seamless silver balls known as gujrav/ghungaroos (the  tiny tinkling beads in an anklet) and is the only supplier of the same in the entire country. These hollow silver balls combined with solid ones, are added to payal as per design needs. There are a variety of designs created through the stampedout dies. They also make some kinds of necklaces and jewellery on order basis. Silver jewellery from Hupri is in great deman at home and abroad. Small families, operates presses to drill small holes in silver strips with the hollowed ends supplied to families making ghungroos (silver beads). In their spare time women spread the tiny, silver hollowed ends on steel plates and join two hollowed halves to form a ghungroo with sharp, steel pencils. These are then knotted by round silver- hooks

The articles are mainly anklets called ‘payal’. Other articles prepared are waist bands for kids ‘kondora’, toe rings for women ‘wedan’, combined ring and bangle for kids ‘angathi wali kadli’. A few of the highlight Silver Jewellery types are mentioned below:

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Chum-chum – for kids, Gahu motifs is used along with ghaghri (bells), approx weight is 35 gms.

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Todavala – for kids, 2 kadas worn on ankles, approx. weight is 85 gms.

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Kalamani Kadli – silver bangles with black beads, approx. weight is 50 gms.

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Gajeshri payals – with meenakari.  Sarja Gareshri - Gareshri with neelam and single motif.

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Rupali – silver chain of silver, approx. weight is 30 gms.

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Graghri wali sarja gajeshri – approx. weight is 100 gms.

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Koena rupali – motifs of koena and rawa, approx. weight is 45 gms.

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Naksha ghaghri (rupali) – approx. weight is 45 gms.

formed out of silver wires. Arc flames are run over steel plates lined with ghungroos to solder them into long strands  of payals. Some shops add colour to the payals to give Meenakari eﬀect. At most work spots, young men do the hard work with the female folk taking up the strenuous job of stringing ghungroos. Children go to school even while being aware of their future being a live part of the payal trade.Out of the various designs, the few popular and traditional ones are: rupali, chum-chum, gajashree, etc. They are also famous for the ‘antique jewellery’ pieces, crafted here and sold the everywhere

MOTIFS There is no production of utensils and vessels in Hupari village but in the Kolhapur town there is a mass production of utensils, vessels, decorative items, temple goods, etc. e local term of the name of motifs used in their designs are-Pan, Badam, kamani-nakshi, checks, etc. PRODUCTS Glass - Workmanship charges: 350 per kilogram of silver Wastage: 5% Weight: 15g – 150g Figurine    Workmanship charge Rs 1200 per kilogram of silver Wastage 7% Made out of 70% silver Chattar:- Workmanship charge Rs 2000 per kilogram of silver Design charges vary from Rs 10,000 per kilogram of silver Tamaan Plate Workmanship charge: Rs. 1000 per kilogram of silver Bowl Workmanship charges: Rs 350 per kilogram of silver Wastage: 5% Weight- 10 – 100g

CONTEMPORARY(OXIDISED)JEWELLERY In Hupri, besides the production of traditional payal, there are some units which produces contemporary jewellery most of which has been oxidised to give an antique touch. Motifs  and design of the jewellery has mostly been taken out from the temple carving(as told by the  karigars).And the motifs are named according to their local term such as Badami, til, dambru, mandakini, jokemani ,minti, kanist, etc

Swot

ANALYSIS SWOT analysis is a framework used to evaluate a company's competitive position by identifying its strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats. Specifically, SWOT analysis is a foundational assessment model that measures what an organisation can and cannot do, and its potential opportunities and threats. â&#x20AC;¨

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Strong knowledge base through craft lineage which leads to easy availability of trained and skilled workforce.

are not able to aﬀord purchase of the raw materials. In the absence of raw material banks, they are often forced to rely on local traders who provide them with raw materials against orders.

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High Awareness about the craft, often referred to as Rajatnagiri (Silver town) across India.

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Competitive advantage with respect to certain processes like Hollow ball making, which is known only by the artisans located here.

Low Productivity and High Lead Time – use of old production methods results in the increase in lead-time.

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Cost of Production - Artisans lack the financial capability to upgrade technology in production, or undergo necessary training. Hence, they continue to work with outdated machines and processes which increases wastage and the cost of production.

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Conflict regarding Purity of Silver Jewellery retailers are generally of the opinion that the silver used in Hupari is not pure and there is no guarantee for is quality.   Seasonal Production - crafts production takes place in households, with multiple family members engaged in diﬀerent aspects of the process within community settings. Production is generally seasonal.

Strength

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Capability of manufacturing quality products.  Sustainable manufacturing process which have a low carbon footprint and promote the use of locally available materials in the vicinity of the craftsmen. Women’s empowerment through social upliftment by providing opportunity to women to earn livelihood by engaging in Crafts production.

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Weakness

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Lack of cooperative approach for development of the cluster.

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Complacent attitude makes the craftsmen averse to taking risks with innovative designs and resistant to accept change.

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Scarcity of financial resources.

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Lack of modern technology - As the financial capabilities of craftsmen in Hupari are low, they are not able to purchase the machines for improving product and production.

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Availability of raw materials - artisans and it challenging to buy quality raw materials at aﬀordable prices. The investment capacities of the most master craftsmen are very low; they

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Volatility in the rates of silver aﬀects the probability of the craftsmen.

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No access to market information and current trends as the master craftsmen are not directly involved in marketing and exporting products.

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No design input/up-gradation leading to monotonous and outdated  product design. Artisans are not aware of the sociocultural context of the consumer, and thus are not designing products that suit their needs and tastes.

Opportunity

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Stable Employment and Income Generation: The craft has the potential to provide sustained employment and income generation avenues to the craftsmen. This in turn will prevent migration of these craftsmen to urban centres for diﬀerent jobs and thereby the loss of age old skill of jewellery making.

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Introduction of modern technology can lead to Product Diversification in terms of new products in silver or use of other materials thereby tapping new markets. Threats

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Availability of cheaper alternatives: Technological innovation and  globalisation has led to the availability of cheaper and more varied products thereby creating severe competition for crafts in contemporary markets.

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Secured livelihood for future generations and improvement in the health, education and living conditions.

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Unsatis ed Demand in Contemporary markets: • Current Consumer Perception: Craft based products are considered to be traditional, oldThere has been an increase in demand for ethnic products that have a story linked to them, both fashioned and conflicting with modern tastes SWOT analysis (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and and preferences. in domestic as well as international markets. The glob- al market for handicrafts is USD400 billion, threats analysis) is a framework for identifying Buy Back and rateanalyzing for Silver: Since jewellery • Lower of which India’s share is below 2%, representing a in India is seen as  tremendous growth opportunity which the internal and external factors that can have an impact on an investment option, lower buy back rate for currently cannot be leveraged on supply chain   Silver (approximately  the viability of a project, product, place or person. ineﬃciencies. 40% of original values compared to Gold reduces the lucrativeness  Positive Consumer/Market Sentiment: With the of the products. increase in sentiments of Social Awareness and Responsibility among consumers and their • Macro-economic crisis that leads to increase in patronage towards companies exhibiting silver prices. Corporate Social Responsibility, the eld is ripe to promote the craft sector. A consumer survey in Europe revealed that 40% of consumers surveyed were willing to pay a premium of 10% for  origin-guaranteed products.

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Unique Selling Proposition and Competitive advantage: Focus on marketing eﬀorts can create  an exclusive image for the craft. These artisans can be positioned as specialists and attract greater Consumer base for the silver products.

Product Planning

production involves all the making process of Hupari Silver Jewellery, Silver products and also includes individual costs of each process as every process is done at a diﬀerent place and also done by diﬀerent KARIGAR“. • Marketing: Artisans village as the place has shops the get orders from big dealers who further takes the products to bigger market. • Finance: Artisans require minimum of 1000 to 1500 rupees to start up at a small scale  level. In this artisans can start the business by jus purchasing tools to work and further because they get raw materials are provided by the big business owners who give them bulk orders. Some obtain raw materials on credit and start up. • Employment & Labour: is industry requires hard labour in which artisans mostly involves their families too. Almost all the families of the village are involved in the same craft . Two artisans make ornaments weighing 25 to 30 tolas a day. All artisans work on per day basis, per basis & sometimes when it is a case of beads they charge according to pieces. • Co-operative societies: societies organised at Kolhapur & Hupari in 1956. e society at Hupari was organised by and silver workers. is society had 98 members, Rs. 3500 as share capital at the end of June 1956

Business Structure istribution network - distribution network works in the following manner Jwellery wholesalers, individual sends silver to the Hupari Manufacturer. • Courier • Hupari Processing on silver and product ready for delivery. • Courier • Final product received by Jewellery wholesalers/ individual rms. • Promotion: Currently very less or no promotions are done but Hupari require promotion to start exporting, compete with upcoming centres and to bring much of awareness regarding the international markets. • Scope of Export: Silverware (Silver Utensils) is in great demands at USA and in European markets. Silverware is very famous from Denmark but products made in Hupari can also be exported in those countries. Moreover the labour charges of Hupari will definitely be less than that of Denmark so there is a wider cost advantage. Promotion of craft can help majorly & Hupari also need to identify channel and partner through which export is  possible.

HEALTH HAZARDS Rough the art has been the life support system for so many people in Hupari and its vicinity yet they have to undergo a lot of hardships to earn their livelihood. ere are several problems  which have been the hitch in the progress of these people. But still they are le with no means  to get rid of these problems. Some of them are mentioned as follows. LACK OF ANY AID OR ASSISTANCE.  At times when the rate of silver goes high their trade and business are affected as they have  no other source of livelihood, so they have to sit idle without work. Though there is no problem in availability of scrap still the dealers are increasing the rates of scrap so as to increase their pro t range which again adversely affects the poor artisans.  e working of the artisans in poor condition for long has resulted in them developing certain health problems like poor eye-sight , backache , headache , hernia , tv etc. due to poor health conditions the artisans are unable to be regular at work which again affects the daily output of the business. e working conditions are not all proper according to the rights and the workers and artisans face many problems like poor lighting , poor ventilation , unhygienic place , sound pollution, lack of new instruments , the age old use of same instruments over and over again.

SKILLS OF LABOURER  Some are born with skill but some needs a special skill set and it comes through rigorous training. The labours also needs to be trained so that they are able to take massive order as sometimes it is beyond their capacity to deliver client orders hence result in decline in business. MANPOWER  As the manpower in the village is a constraint, they are already overloaded with work and have no scope to take on large orders. Sometimes, they even have to turn down orders  as they do not have the capacity to fulfil them.

KNOWLEDGE OF LATEST TECHNOLOGY  Traditional methods of production are still being used for production of vessels and the artisans are largely unaware of the avenues open to them. e traditional methods needs to encourage and preserve but at the same time the artisans should keep themselves updated with the latest technology to be able to survive in this competitive mark.

Findings and Analysis   RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT  e research and development process of Hupari silver is not up to mark as told by the diﬀerent retailers in the city. e designs and methods are not up to the mark. COLLABORATION  For their technological up gradation they are not joining hands with any of the modern industry. ACPL in Delhi is one of the best companies in India, having the best machineries. e machine which the Hupari association is eyeing from Italy is  present with the company. MARKET EXPLORATION  They are not exploring the markets for their product and still are sticking to their buyers. They should go and explore Gujarat as it is considered to be one of the best destinations for Payal. DESIGN UP GRADATION  They should update their design to t with the modern demands. At the same time, they should come up with innovative ideas in such a way that they fuse the modern design and the traditional designs.  PROPER SAFETY MEASURES NOT TAKEN In almost every workplace we visited we did not and proper safety measures taken by the  workers. • ere was no proper spacing between the machines. •Gloves were not worn by the workers when they were working with acids , LPG •Face mask was not worn in the process of soldering. •Proper safety measures were not taken near the blast furnace.  These had the following impacts: •New workers avoid getting into such risky jobs. • ere are more chances of injuries and mishaps. •Workers need rest at regular intervals

Suggestions and Solution Hupari silver craft has developed since years, but there are some areas that has to be improved with modern era. The designs, motifs, and process has it's own importance which symbolises Hupari silver craft. As people are getting habituated with modern life they demand for more modernised and handy products like light weight jewellery and more. Below are listed suggestions and their solutions which Hupari silver craftsmen can adapt to make their designs more approachable to customers: DESIGN STRATEGIES 1. Packaging Improvement: Problem - After the products are made, craftsmen or artisans deliver these products in cloth or plastic. But due to the ban of plastic, they are in dilemma for how to deliver the products to the market. Solution - New packaging can be designed which should be sustainable or recyclable. Some of the ideations to make packaging are cardboard boxes, paper packaging, cotton fabric packaging which will be compatible for bulk orders. 2. Collaborations with other materials: Problem - Hupari silver jewellery is known for it's payal and ghungharoo, but these designs are not suitable for urban lifestyle as people are continuously tangled in work.

Solution - To modernize the craft, craftsmen can use fabrics (such as leather, rexine, etc. ) to develop new products. Silver can also be incorporated with crochet and shell craft to make fashion jewellery.

Solution - To avoid degradation in market value, silver jewellery can be made in light weight, sleek in design and modern motifs while not loosing the essence of the craft.

3. Designing modern motifs:

MARKETING STRATEGIES:

Problem - The motifs used in the craft such as koyana, panikha, topi, shankh, pari, keri, etc. are running since ages. These motifs have gone old-fashioned which urban people does not prefer most of the times.

1. Arrangements for some training programmers and workshops:

Solution - Though these designs are traditional, we can stylise them for current trends. This will increase the customer range i.e. from rural to urban. Also, this will decrease the cost of the product due to which people can aﬀord it easily.

Problem - Although silver craft is reaching international market, but not a lot of people are aware about unique selling point of Hupari craft. Solution - Digital marketing is the modern strategy to approach as much as possible consumers all over the world. A website, promotional page or social media can help to spread awareness about the craft and improve it's value of Silver craft.

4. Product Range: 2. Exposure to media: Problem - Throughout our visit to Hupari, we noticed that the village are specialised in payal and are not evolving in diﬀerent product area. Solution - In order to increase market approach, more product range can be included to this segment that will eﬀectively increase the presence of the craft. Product like footwear, show pieces, bags, fashion accessories, etc. can increase the aesthetics and demand of hupari jewellery. 5. Light weight: Problem - Most of the jewellery made by silver is heavy in weight and costly, This is the reason why people tend to buy white - metal jewellery which is more accessible, low in cost, modernised and light weight.

Problem - In the generation of media enthusiasts, Hupari does not have any significance on the media. This is one of the reason why people are aware about the craft. Solution - One of the way to spread marketing can be celebrity endorsement which can bring the craft in light. 3. Branding: Problem - As the artisans work over orders, they are just linked with the company's that provide bulk orders to them. There is no direct linkage of the artisans to the consumers, which can bring more cost eﬀectiveness to them. Solution - Business cards, brochures, and logo design, etc. can be done to appeal more customers.

CONCLUSION Eventually as one reaches the end of this venture one realises it’s the beginning not the end. A er a detailed study of the people of Hupari its evident that this craft has mingled into their blood. They feel it’s a part of their family tradition which must be inherited by their future generations. Even a er the various hardships they encounter due to lack of funds and aids, old machinery and techniques, insulate client awareness about the latest technologies their enthusiasm never seems to wane away. It is really hard to believe when one   sees their complete dedication towards the work. their exquisite skill which has even enhanced over the years has equipped them to create masterpieces in silver jewellery. Anklets  have become their speciality and is almost equivalent to an emblem of Hupari jewellery. e local people are very amiable , caring and brimming with hospitality. Yet there are and devotion is not given its due recognition. e dealers and shopkeepers buy this unparalleled piece of art at very minimal rates leaving very  small range of pro t for the artisans  and workers.

Basically needs more of encouragement and aid From external sources. Given the proper training and expertise help this craft can actually become a national asset. Another problem coming their way is the repetitive use of same old motifs which is gradually losing its market in urban areas. ere needs to be some compensation in the design to attract the youth.

Glossary Terms Process and setup of melting silver and forming lag gad and patla Bhatti e oven  Chandi Silver Chorsa  Paijhan  Dagdi  Dak  Dye  Filigree  Ghaghn  Kadora  KumKum  Laggad  Lota  Meenakri  Passa  Patla  Patra  Patti  Prabhawali  Rawa  Sandshi Tonga  Soot silver wire  Takankhaar A grey white powder used in atni http:// maharashtra.gov.in References http:// maharashtratourism.gov.in http:// www.blonnet.com http:// www.indiadata.com http:// www.msmediallahabad.com Book Research method C.R Kothari

References ARTICLE •AN ORIGINAL WORLD OF ART BY – INDIAN ARTIST AND MASTER OF CRAFT, CENTRAL COTTAGE INDUSTRY EMPORIUM (A GOVT. OF INDIA UNDERTAKING ,MINISTRY OF TEXTILES)   •Arts and crafts of India By : Barry Cooper, Ilay Gillow, John Dawson PUBLISHER : James and Hudson (New York) • e Golden Book of Indian Crafts and Lore By W. Ben Hunt Publisher: Simon and Schuster; •Complete How-To Book of Indian craft : By W. Ben Hunt Publisher: Wiley  Books •Kolhapur a study of the arts and crafts by : Ni FD students , from Ni RC. •Hand made of India by: M.P Ranjan, from Ni RC.  CRAFT DOCUMENTS •craft and cluster development, hupari –silver crafts by : MFM students of Nift Mumbai, batch 2008. •Cluster report on silver of hupari, by : MFM students of Ni Mumbai, batch 2008. •Craft and cluster development, by : MFM students of Ni Mumbai, batch 2008. •Cluster development report on hupari silver works on white metal and oxidised jewellery, by : MFM students of Ni , batch 2008.