editorial
Outside of cyberspace and contained in a very physical reality, public spaces are gaining propensity as sites of communication and collaboration. Although traditionally defined as a meeting venue, public spaces today are emerging as sites of artistic exploration and expression, especially among younger generations. Particularly in a politically turbulent and transitional society such as Nepal’s, artistic forms of representation such as street art, poetry slam, architecture and photography afford individuals and groups alike the opportunity to discover new and innovative ways to convey meaning and confront the world around them. Inspired by pockets of street art adorning the walls around Kathmandu, this month, we at verse , hit the ground running to explore how public spaces are transforming modes of interaction. Alongside introducing readers to the international origins of street art, we interview the five key artists helping to shape and build Nepal’s emerging street art scene. We question the notion that street art is a subversive means of communication and discover how a simple painting or stencil work can stimulate discussion and debate. Our photography team had a blast this month discovering new sites of art around the city. By permanently capturing an otherwise fleeting art form, the story of street design evolves into one with more enduring memory and meaning. Art begets art. And with this we are excited to present a fun and quirky summer photo shoot that fuses the best of the photography, art and fashion worlds with spectacular results. Beyond street art, the use of public space is similarly being transformed in the areas of poetry, architecture and music. Slam poetry, a performance based poetry recital, is gaining momentum among Kathmandu’s young literature buffs who use poetry as a medium to express those issues that are close to them. In order to negotiate the fine line between modernity and tradition, a tangible issue to so many, American architect Travis Price was in Nepal to create a contemporary monument that encapsulated the sacredness and “spirit of place.” Similarly fusing the traditional with the modern is the band Rock Sitar, who we sat down with days before their European tour. But we haven’t forgotten that it is summer! This month’s restaurant reviews will help you pick the best spot for that summer outing and our summer fashion collection will help you keep cool on those long hot days. Take a peek also at our new poetry section where we plan to publish up and coming poets every month. Every day I am continually surprised by the diversity, creativity and passion I see around the city. There are so many people out there creating change for the better and inspiring others to do so themselves.Verse is here to tell help tell their stories, to help spread their message and to become a part of the narrative of ordinary people doing extraordinary things.
magazine
Editor Laura McManus
Creative Directors Sujin Joshi Ghanashyam Neupane Kishor Maharjan
Photographers Rajan Shrestha Prabin Lal Manandhar Sumit Shrestha
Illustrations Michelle Lama
Writers Amrita Gurung Rhea Gurung Bimochan Niraula Akriti Shilpakar
Marketing Anuj Bista Binit Khadka Minnat Joshi Gaurav Dhungana
Promotion Kiran Shahi Reshma Tuladhar Renasha Ghimire Kelsang Wangdu
Distribution RB News (Kathmandu) Safal Media House (Pokhara)
Printing Print Point Publishing(3P) Tripureshwor, Kathmandu 4249674/75
Consultant Dr. Bipul Man Singh Contributors Gokul Atreya, Liza Weber, Marina Menuka Lama, Pratik Shrestha, Roli Mittal Jalan, Suraksha Nepal, Thomas Kelly, Yuvash Vaidya
Publisher: Line Media Pvt. Ltd. Manbhawan, Lalitpur, Nepal. Tel: 01-5546194 Regd. 251/067/068 info@verse.com.np www.verse.com.np Verse magazine is published 12 times a year by Line Media Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the prior permission of the published. The publisher will not accept responsibility or any liability for the correctness of information or opinions expressed in the publication. Each Issue: Rs. 50, Annual Subscription: Rs. 500 | Send us your subscription requests to subscribe@verse.com.np
cover art
Sitara Arts, Lagankhel Photo : Rajan Shrestha
contents 48 Nirakar Yakthumba
Riding into History
50 The Great Renouncers
Sadhu
Banksy Word on the Street Summer Hangouts Capturing the Spirit of Place The Shadows The Imprints of a Soul
12 Street Art in Kathmandu
24 Anya’s Way of Expression
When Art is Stencils in Kathmandu Just Art
20 62 42 38 56 73
28 Splash out in colour this monsoon
Symbols of Style
Tone Music Store Opening Rock and metal music enthusiasts of Kathmandu were treated to a very special sight on Friday 10th June. The opening of Tone Music Store came amidst much cheer from local music goers as it opened up great options for buying high quality music equipment in Kathmandu. To mark the day, an open concert was organized leading to jam session where many known musicians of the underground scene performed. It was a lively scene in Tangal as bands played covers, originals, improvisations and some jaw-bending instrumental pieces. The show began with the performance of Morgoth and kept getting heavier until late in the evening. Some other bands to perform were Hatebook and Horny Monks, while acclaimed musicians like Sunny Tuladhar, Kiran Shahi, Bijay Shrestha, Anil Dhital came together in various combos to enrich the soft rock atmosphere. Following the concert, held on the steps of the store’s two storey building, shoppers got their first taste of purchasing good instruments and equipment in the city opine. The stores presences mark some changes; the concert was just one of its attractions.
Save the Animals & Help the Children Mike E Lilly’s solo art exhibition took off on June 8th 2011 to be continued until July 4th at Chai Chai Café and Gallery in Jawalakhel. An activist artist, Mike has worked as an art instructor, a service learning educator and also for Mother Teresa and Missionaries of Charity at the home of Dying and Destitute. Currently, he is involved in helping disadvantaged children through the NGO, Sangkalpa, which he runs with his wife. Inaugurated by Dr. Kevin Rushing, Mission Director of USAID, the exhibition infuses two of Mike’s passions- art and service for the cause: Save the Animals and Help the Children. All proceeds from the sale of the artwork will be split between Animal Nepal and Sangkalpa. Animal Nepal is an organization against cruelty towards animals as can be seen in most of the artworks that portray the plight of animals like “Water Buffalo and Buddha” and “I know what you are doing”. Other artworks mostly included children like “Mother and Child” and “Feed the children”. The artist and his wife received the visitors, buyers and the media, the response to the event seemed in sync with the positive vibe that could be felt throughout the exhibit.
Sayami’s Collection of Poem Prakash Sayami’s poem collection ‘Ghalibko Chihaan Ra Aru Kabita’ was launched on July 6 at Academy Hall, Kamladi. The book consists of works from his 30 years poetic journey. It includes 30 poems and 22 songs written in Nepali, English, Nepal Bhasa and Hindi. The book was jointly launched by Rabindra Mishra, journalist, Bhimarjun Acharya, constitutional expert, and Ratna Lamichhane, wife of poet Shankar Lamichhane. Prakash Sayami, who is a filmmaker, poet and a radio broadcaster, declared to donate fifty percent of the money collected from the book sales on the event to Rakshya Nepal, an NGO working for the welfare of female sex workers and their children in Nepal. The book is distributed by Educational Book House and is priced at Rs. 175 each.
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Alliance Française in Kathmandu (AFK) and Children for Green New Nepal (CGNN) jointly celebrated World Environment Day. The three day long celebrations comprised of film shows and an art competition for the students. The event starting on Friday, June 3 with the filming of Al Gore’s An Inconvenient Truth at Patan Durbar Square. Addicted to Plastic was filmed on the second day and The Age of Stupid was on the last. The art competition was also observed on the final day followed by a rally displaying the student’s work of art. Also on the occasion of World Environment Day, a mass tree-hugging program was organized at Gokarna. The gathering was organised in an attempt to set a new tree-hugging world record.
events
World Environment Day
Poet of the Fall 1905, Kantipath was filled with a marvellous fusion of poetry, performance and music on June 10. “Poet of the Fall” was organised jointly by Mu’az Entertainment and 1905 which showcased the versatile acts and poems of Murad Ali which were fusioned perfectly with the soothing music by pianist Upendra Lal Singh. Ali recited wonderful English and Sufi poems in synchronization with Western as well Indian melodies. Ali’s presentation of the scenes from the movies Taxi Driver and The Departed were highly admired by the audience. The program was then continued with an enthralling performance by Upendra and his friends.
Fete de la Musique
Just as in previous years, Alliance Française brought “Fete de la Musique”, a lively music festival originally from Paris, to Kathmandu for week long festivities kicking off on Tueday, June 21 at Dattatrya Square, Bhaktapur. The event, jointly organised by Alliance Française in Kathmandu and Service Civil International, began with Newari musical performances followed by a fusion performance of guitars and Dhime from students of Alliance Française. Ashesh and Nekhvam performed some wonderful blues followed by an enthralling performance by the students of KU School of Music. Next on the program, was the “AFK Music Contest”. The second music contest was open to all and the winner got the chance to open the final act of the music week, “Betty Argo in Kathmandu”. The free concert was held on June 26 at Nepal Academy Hall. The Indie pop band grabbed the audiences’ attention with their music of reggae, rock and electronic influences.
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gadgets
Nokia E6
General: 2G Network GSM 850/900/1800/1900 3G Network HSDPA 850 /900/1700/1900/2100 Display: Type TFT capacitive touchscreen, 16M colors Size 640 x 480 pixels, 2.46 inches - Gorilla glass display - QWERTY keyboard - Multi-touch input method - Accelerometer sensor for auto-rotate - Proximity sensor for auto turn-off Features: OS Symbian Anna OS CPU 680 MHz ARM 11 processor, 2D/3D Graphics HW Accelerator with OpenVG1.1 and OpenGL ES 2.0 Messaging SMS, MMS, Email, IM Colors Black, White, Silver GPS with A-GPS support
Samsung Ch@t 335 General: Display: Features:
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GSM 850 / 900 / 1800 / 1900 Type TFT, 256 colors Size 320 x 240 pixels, 2.4 inches - QWERTY keyboard - Optical trackpads - Wi-Fi 802.11 b/g - Bluetooth v 2.1 with A2DP - SNS integration - MP3/eAAC+ player - MP4/H.264 player SMS, MMS, Email, IM Colors Black, White, Silver
Apple iPhone 4 General: Display: Features:
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2G Network GSM 850/900/1800/1900 3G Network HSDPA 850/900/1900/2100 Type LED-backlit IPS TFT, capacitive touchscreen, 16M colors Size 640 x 960 pixels, 3.5 inches - Scratch-resistant oleophobic surface - Multi-touch input method - Accelerometer sensor for auto-rotate - Three-axis gyro sensor - Proximity sensor for auto turn-off OS iOS 4 CPU 1 GHz ARM Cortex-A8 processor, PowerVR SGX535GPU, Apple A4 chipset Messaging SMS(threaded view), MMS, Email, IM Colors Black, White GPS with A-GPS support
Apple MacBook Pro Processor: Memory: Hard Drive: Optical Drive: Display: Graphics: Webcam: Intercace: Dimensions: Weight:
2.2GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor 4GB DDR3 1333Mhz 750GB 7200RPM DVD±R DL/DVD±RW/CD-RW 17” high-resolution LED-backlit glossy 1 GB AMD Radeon HD 6750M FaceTime HD camera Thunderbolt, FireWire 800, USB 2.0, ExpressCard 39.3 cm (W) x 26.7 cm (D) x 2.5 cm (H) 2.99 kg
Dell Alienware M15X
HP ProBook 4530s Processor: Memory: Hard Drive: Optical Drive: Display: Graphics: Webcam: Interface: Dimensions: Weight:
Processor: Intel Core i7-740QM 1.73 GHz Memory: 6GB DDR3 1333Mhz Hard Drive: 500GB SATA (7200 rpm) Optical Drive: DVD ± RW Dual Layer Display: 15.6” Full High Definition-LED True Life Graphics: 1 GB ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5850 Webcam: 2.0 MP Camera Interface: 8-in-1 Memory Card Reader Dimensions: 37.79 cm (W) x 30.86 cm (D) x 4.87 cm (H) Weight: 4.08 kg
Intel® Core™ i3-2310M 4GB DDR3 1333Mhz 320GB 7200RPM DVD±RW SuperMulti DL LightScribe 15.6” LED-backlit HD anti-glare Intel HD Graphics 2.0 MP Camera 6-in-1 integrated Digital Media Reader 37.5 cm (W) x 25.56 cm (D) x 2.87 cm (H) 2.36 kg
Apple MacBook Air Processor: Memory: Hard Drive: Display: Graphics: Webcam: Interface: Dimensions: Weight:
1.6GHz Intel Core 2 Duo 2GB DDR3 1066Mhz 128GB Flash Storage 11.6” high-resolution LED-backlit glossy widescreen 256 MB NVIDIA GeForce 320M FaceTime camera USB 2.0 29.95 cm (W) x 19.2 cm (D) x 0.3-1.7 cm (H) 1.06 kg
specifications provided by Virgin Mobile and Mero IT www.verse.com.np
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cover story 12
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When Art is Just Art TEXT : Laura McManus PHOTO : Bruno Levy
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PHOTO: Prabin Lal Manandhar
“I am Yeti,” read the bold blue and yellow words adorning the high brick wall opposite the Ambassador Hotel in Lazimpat. My heart fluttered as I scanned the words again. “I am Yeti.” My mind similarly began to postulate endless possibilities; who was this, where had they come from, what was their intent, when did they do it, why this wall and were they really a yeti?Yes, street art does crazy things to your mind. The enigma, the thrill and the idea that someone, someone one will never know, is out there bringing to life works of art for the rest of the world to enjoy without anything in return; now there is a nice thought. “I am Yeti.” It was new and fresh. It was neither a political slogan nor an advertorial poster or a poorly worded English sign to welcome tourists. It represented a perspective, a perspective of someone without an agenda, someone who wanted to have fun and above most someone who had a talent to share. It is palpable to say that I was excited. Walking a little further on Lazimpat Road, my contented grin turned into a smile of elation as I made sense of the big black letters that now
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covered the entire wall facing west at the main intersection. The character painted at the end indicated it was different artist, the style and the message similarly diverging from the work of Yeti. I was to find out later that this was Mr. K. “scitilopodot.” I read backwards. Ah, “to do politics.” Picking up the pace my eyes scanned the wall faster than my legs could carry me. “Me not,” “old,” no read again, “told.” “Mmy,” ok, think. “Yummy?” No. “Dummy?” It could not be.Yes! “Mummy.” “MUMMY TOLD POLITICS.”
ME
NOT TO
DO
By this stage I was all but dancing in the street. Here I was thinking I would be in Nepal during one of the country’s most historic modern periods - that of the ratification of the new constitution. Instead, days after the Constituent Assembly announced yet another extension, I find myself on the cusp of the nations bourgeoning street art movement, amidst a new wave of talent that seeks not to imbue my brain with propaganda but simply and beautifully express “art everywhere for everyone.”
PHOTO: Bruno Levy
A week later I had to play it cool as I found myself in the company of Yeti, Bruno and Chandan. Together the trio are three of the six or so main players in this rebirth of street art in Nepal. Well, the lines are a little blurred as to whether this is a revival of a lost art or an awakening of a new era of artistic expression. In 2003 Sonik, a well known American artist, added some intricate murals to the Kathmandu cityscape. Then, a few years later when Bruno visited Nepal for the first time, he and Chandan “started doing a few tags around town.” “I don’t know if we are the start of street art in Nepal but there are definitely more tags and murals than ever before,” the mysterious Yeti explains. “We want street art in Nepal to grow. It is more enjoyable for the artists and the public if more people become involved. ..It really can make a city fun,” adds Bruno, a photography student and artist from New York University. And fun is what Kathmandu seems to need. After years of reading politically orientated slogans,being bombarded with movie posters and confronting “so many dirty and stained walls,” residents are generally enthusiastic about waking to find a new
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mural as they begin their daily commute across the city.“If anything it makes the city look cleaner and more maintained,” the quieter Chandan says as he enters the conversation. Of course street art can easily be, and often is, mistaken for graffiti, a term that generally carries negative connotations of dissident youth out to cause strife. “It’s not like that at all,” Yeti elucidates, “we are respectful of private property and always ask permission before hand.” Much of the work gracing the walls of Jamal, Lazimpat, Thamel and Pulchowk are, however, in prominent public spaces. Goods spots are those considered to be “smooth walls in a good location where lots of people can see it.” Although, the group insist they are not trying to make any particular statement. “It’s about doing what we love and sharing it with the world,” they collectively agree. “In the West, street art is a gate way to a professional art career,” Bruno compares. “People take pictures, upload it to a website, gain a few advertisers, become more popular and then start selling their work for ridiculous amounts.” Yeti extrapolates, “here it’s not about
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SKETCH : Bruno Levy
trying to make money. It is about passion and self satisfaction. When I put my work out there it is about sharing and hoping people like it.” Unlike the rest of the world, street art in Nepal is not yet considered illegal. As the street art scene is just emerging, Bruno describes how “there have not been enough grounds for an anti-culture to emerge to counter and challenge the work we are doing. Most people are curious and just wonder what is going on.” Pondering where sites of resistance may arise I suggest that in the West, at least, opposition to street art usually stems from an older, culturally traditional and politically conservative generation. Much to my surprise, Yeti chimes in that “old people have reacted positively when they see us paint, even offering words of encouragement.” What about the police? “They don’t care either. One night they even helped us to clean a wall.” I can’t get my head around it. “People generally wonder who would pay money to paint the city’s
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walls with art, with something that actually looks nice,” Yeti clarifies. She continues to elaborate that “street art is new, it’s contemporary and it’s Western. When one cannot recognise something or see it for the first time they have a lot of questions.” “Plus it comes down to diverging definitions of public space,” Bruno helps me understand. “Everything in the West is a private space. Here public is public.” Indeed it was curiosity from this art in distinct public spaces that had most of Kathmandu talking in early June as pockets of paintings sprang up around the city. Devoid of the convoluted and oft superfluous explanations normally found beside an artwork in a gallery, street artists’ capture their audiences’ imagination because one can interpret the work as they see it. For example, in the mural opposite the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, what I might perceive to be a social commentary of the all-consuming power of digital media, you may see, well, just a big pink monster. Street art, like life, is relative.
PHOTO: Bruno Levy
And it’s quite a process too. It begins with the planning of the location, drafting sketches and gathering the materials. On the creative process Yeti replies that “before you paint, you have a central idea, but your original sketch may change according to the space available.” On the night they go out the group clean the wall for at least two hours before they begin paint. “You have to remove the dirt, the posters and make sure the space is as clean as possible before you start. If you skip this step it would probably turn out really shitty.” A typical mural, which is normally several metres long and high, can take anywhere from three to five hours, to a couple of days. “It depends really on the size and how detailed the artwork is,” Bruno describes. “Something like ‘I am Yeti’ will take a day and a half, ‘Money Never Sleeps’ took about 5 hours and Mr. K. usually works over a couple of nights.”
who does what. But does that lead to competition? “It’s not a competition but if another artist is out overnight and you find it the next morning, you feel a drive,” Yeti diplomatically responds. Bruno finishes her sentence adding that “it is not a drive to out-do one another, it’s a drive to improve yourself and become a better artist.” “At the end of the day we like to paint and paint as much as we can,” Yeti concludes. “After completing a mural at the end of a night we are all really dirty which makes for a good group hug.” Group hugs, charm and talent. I think I am in love. With the art, with the movement and with the joy it can bring my day when I discover something new. Enigmatic, bold, colourful, different and fun. Yes, street art does crazy things to your mind.
Usually an artist will have a particular character or trait that is unique to their work.This makes it possible for other artists and the public to identify
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cover story
Warning: Do not take it otherwise W A R N I N G! Tapaile dial garnu bhayeko number ma ahile samparka huna sakena. Kripaya kehi samaya pachhi puna prayas garnu hola. D H A N Y A B A D! Alas, this is not an unusual warning as you many of you are already aware how horrible and painfully inefficient our phone services are. For years Nepalis have been dealing with similar seemingly insignificant but otherwise momentous problems such as poor phone connection. This is momentous because these frustrations have mounted into a larger wave of discontent that can have far reaching implications. While most of us have accommodated these inconveniences into our lives, others continue to find a source, an impetus to take these frustrations and anger to a new height. Rainbow Warrior and Mr. K, as they call themselves, decline to reveal their identities and just refer to a patch of lettering W A R N I NG on the wall of the library opposite Biswojyoti Hall in Jamal. But this was not the beginning of their defiant artsy protest. Earlier, the pair collaborated on a project where they distributed the infamous warning sign stickers “with grunts
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in between to their friends”. The same warning message was later printed on t-shirts that made a few sales. The little money raised from the t-shirt sales bought them the paints and brushes to take their frustrations further into the public space. W A R N I N G was the first creation. Noticed by commuters, students and other passersby’s, the street art generated a buzz as to who might have created the work. People also started noticing the art as more of it appeared on the walls every day. “Our intention was to bring smiles on the faces of those who pass by,” said Mr. K who is Nepali, and an avid lover of art. “I think we have been very successful in doing this. It can be reflected in the way people have taken interest in it,” added Rainbow Warrior who is an alien in Nepal. Warning, however did not limit the potential of the message they had to spread. Making an individual stance amongst the hordes of slogans and announcements too many times frequent with political agendas, Mr. K and
Rainbow Warrior’s work can be seen around the capital and on its walls, especially in the hot public spots like Jamal, Ratnapark, and Thamel. MUMMY TOLD ME NOT TO DO POLITICS appeared early one morning and was similarly noticed by all who passed largely due to its quirkiness and child like manner of addressing a serious issue. The message was simple: politics is not a thing in which one should get involved. A caricature of a small Mr. K, the child who is speaking these words, is to be found standing beside these letterings at Lainchour. Rainbow Warrior, on the other hand, has his own project where the letter boxes in the streets are given a colourful makeover.
These letter boxes, in their old and dry state, are painted in the hues of rainbow and are given a new life. He intends to take this project seriously and continue in other parts of the city the next time he visits the country. Quipped if there is any political inclination to what they have been doing, Mr. K asserted, “even if there is that is not our intention at all. We did because it’s good way to bring changes in the walls of Kathmandu.” He added, “it is fun too.” Similarly Rainbow Warrior acknowledges, “I wouldn’t take it otherwise even if some kind of authority came and wiped the paints from letter boxes,” he quickly then said, “I could paint it all over again.”
TEXT: Amrita Gurung PHOTO:Mr. K
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Banksy
An unknown character that metamorphosed street art forever
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S
treet art is an underground life, a common heartbeat of masses waiting to exploit their passion and portray their ingenious thoughts through multidimensional artistic ways – graffiti, stencil art, sticker art, wheat-pasting, street posters and video projection to name a few. For many, it is the need to yell their distinct opinions and fight to unlock the latches that have chained a morally bound society around them. For some, it is the emptiness of those blank walls that lures them to creating a soul or a voice to fill the void. While for few, street art is a public gallery, for others, it is just the passion that pushes artists to fill their empty life. For Banksy, it’s all! Banksy is, however, a pseudo-name of the renowned British street artist who has not only changed the course of street art, but also created a movement for the public to think about. In this self-promoting world of art, Banksy has made his own unique name by remaining elusive. No one really knows where and when his next work will appear, or even where and when Banksy emerged. But what is known is that he has transmogrified the streets of London to his own canvas and changed the appearance of many streets around the world. Banksy began his life as a graffiti artist and later, inspired by local London artists, turned to a stencil-artist for his free-hand pieces. In his own publication “Wall and Piece” (2005), Banksy claims that he turned to stencils while he was “hiding from the police under a litter lorry”. Unfortunately, most of his early pieces were removed as it was considered “vandalism”. As a rage against this, Banksy created a sculpture based on a crumpled red phone with a pickaxe in its side, apparently bleeding, and placed it in a side street in Soho, London. Now his works are considered as some of the most creative pieces of contemporary art. He has gained the respect of a venerated artist and even won approval from the public who, via an internet
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discussion, overwhelmingly voted in support of keeping the image of “The Naked Man” in central Bristol. With 97% of people in approval, the city council was forced to preserve the image. Proclaimed by the BBC as an “Artist’s saucy stencil for city”, this case illustrates how Banksy’s works are considered a national treasure that ironically requires the government to preserve them, even if the establishment itself is at the heart of his critique. By depicting characters representative of some of the most marginalized and underrepresented members of society, such as gays and maids, Banksy constantly sends out provocative messages that stimulate public debate on topics that may otherwise remain stigmatized, viz. “Sweeping under the carpet” and “One Nation under CCTV”. In addition to these issues, Banksy’s message is usually antiwar, anti-capitalist or anti-establishment. Connecting with the audience through public spaces, he uses the medium of street art to rally revolutionary change against the ignorance and aggressiveness of society; a society that stubbornly refuses to quit and one that is continually hungry to strive for more, viz. “The Bomb Hugger”. Good art is not what it looks like, but what it does to us. Banksy’s pictorial epigrams make us think. He blends dark humor with a serious and oft scathing critique of the morals bound in our society. While giving us a reason to laugh, he makes us question our own social norms and attitude.
TEXT: Pratik Shrestha
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feature
Stencils in Kathmandu: Anya’s Way of Expression
I
t looks like street art has taken Kathmandu by storm. We interviewed Anya Vaverko, an artist and a witness to this growing culture, about how she sees, feels and participates in street art. Anya, who is also a photographer, a stencil artist and the co-founder of Sattya Media Arts Collective, talks about her line of street art and its place in Kathmandu. We arrived at her office come creative workspace in Lalitpur where she was sitting cross-legged on the floor with her dog Kanchi. Born in Ukraine and brought up in the US, Anya has adopted Kathmandu as her home and is fluent in Nepali as could be seen on her sticker stencil that read “Dal bhat nai mitho!”
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How did your journey in the street art field begin? I have been doing photography and I majored in photojournalism from the University of Texas. When I saw the street art in Kathmandu I thought “so many people are doing it, so why not I?” I really wanted to learn this form of art but I had no idea where I could learn it. So I posted something like that on Facebook and met a mutual friend who was into street art. Stencils are just cutouts from pictures and photographs that you spray on to achieve an image. I have been stenciling for about a year now.
Before that you were into photography then?
company is doing a really terrible thing, for example, and you want to draw on their wall as an act of protest, then that might be a pretty good reason. Otherwise, if you are just doing artwork to make the place look nicer then why do it where it harms someone?
What do you have to say about the ethics of the content of the street art? The guy whom I learnt stenciling with, well, he is not the innocent type and he is some kind of activist too but he is used to tell me- there is so much negativity around… people just come and scribble obscenities all over the walls which has no point at all.
I still am! Stenciling is just something I do- it is not my career or anything, it is just something I use to express ideas. For example, when I was younger I used to write poems and stuff. When I want to say something, I just put it up as a Facebook status. Then I stopped writing poetry and nobody really cares about Facebook statuses. Sometimes when I feel mad about something and I have to express it in some way or the other, I put my energy into the artwork. Sometimes I really like a photograph and I turn it into a stencil and think of a message to put with it.
Banksy makes very strong statements without ever using offensive language-half the time he doesn’t even write anything. He is just clever the way he does it. What I am saying is, you don’t have to censor yourself and put up pictures of flowers and bunnies. Express yourself but be clever about it. Not everything has to be a negative statement and not everything has to be a positive statement- it can just reflect your mood.
So when did you actually start doing street art?
Most of the time, people don’t even know that it was me who did the art work. Some that I did on a framed glass and hung around here gathered response like “Oh hey, you made that? I used to see it whenever I passed this way and it always made me laugh.” There have been good responses so far.
Well, last month I had some free time so I got together with a friend and practiced some stencils. I didn’t really spray on a wall when in the US because I was still learning. My friend had a lot of art space where we prepared a bunch of stencils.
Does it take a long time? It doesn’t take a lot of time.You just take a picture, cut it out, spray over it. Usually it takes one or two days. My most intricate stencil took around two days with me spending every bit of my free time cutting it out. But you still need the right energy and the right vibe to do it the proper way.
How different is it from other forms of art? The thing about stenciling is- anybody can do it.You can recreate the same image over and over again. Other forms of art cannot be reproduced the same way- you’d need to copy it precisely and draw over it… with stencils, you just cut it out and spray over it. It is a simple thing and a lot of people can do it.
What kinds of ethics are attached to this form of art? With street art, I see to it that I am not doing it on someone’s front door or on a property. In Kathmandu there are a lot of spaces that are nobody’s property. It should not be harming someone in anyway and should usually have a purpose. If a
How have people been responding to your art?
What is the role of your organization- Sattya Media Arts Collective? My organization is not directly related to this art but Sattya is basically a research center for filmmakers, photographers and media people. Sometimes we just show movies and documentaries and sometimes we hold workshops for things like creative writing and photography. Everybody is welcome here. There were people who wanted to learn stenciling and Sattya could be a platform for it because it is where we share and learn things. It is kind of a creative space for people.
How long have you been in Nepal? Eight years-coming and going. I was nineteen when I first came here.
What kind of changes in the scenario of street art have you seen here? People have begun taking up street art these days- there is this one near the Himalaya hotel which has replaced the political slogans. First, aesthetically it looks better and second, it drew people together to do something good.
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Do you think it will make a difference-even the slightest, in these times of political disorder?
Anything for people who want to begin stenciling?
I don’t think it will shake up the leaders or something because I don’t really know WHAT it takes to shake them. Like I said, it is a means of expressing and I don’t think it will make a lot of difference whatsoever.
I would encourage it because it is kind of empowering. All your life, you walk around a city that you didn’t help design or leave a mark on. However, don’t do anything random. Let it at least have some meaning. Express yourself but don’t offend unnecessarily.
What, related to art, bothers you the most in Nepal? Advertising is getting way out of hand here. I mean, in the west it is worse but Nepal is quickly getting there.You cannot escape them…companies are buying space and it is crazy! I don’t see how the space belongs to them more than anyone of us. Somehow their slogans are considered more “legal” and “harmless” than a piece of art put up on a wall just because they paid money to do it.
What difference do you see personally between the convention of street art in the west and here? I don’t really know because, like I said, I never did art back in the US. One thing- in the US, street art can be serious crime which I really disagree with. That is what I like about Nepal. There are walls that nobody really owns. I just wish they were not so commercial. In the West, there are people who appreciate street art… but sometimes they tend to look down upon you. In Nepal, people are curious and do appreciate it. My neighbour, a little kid, thinks it is utterly cool (laughs). It is interesting how street art is growing in Nepal. Just a year ago there were hardly any and today everybody is doing or talking street art. Before people mainly drew anarchy symbols, but now murals and art itself is cropping up. The city is starting to look better.
INTERVIEW : Bimochan Niraula and Rhea Gurung TEXT : Rhea Gurung IMAGES : Anya Vaverko
The artist can be reached at: http://thesecitywalls.wordpress.com/ and Sattya Media Arts Collective http://www.sattya.org/
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fashion
Symbols of Style Splash out in colour this monsoon season - bold black, pretty pink and tempting teal. On and off the streets, paint your wardrobe bright! Be a symbol of style!
Photographer : Rajan Shrestha Concept and Styling : Marina Menuka Lama Make-Up: Sabita Khadka (Thapa) [9841310185] Models : Sejasu Gurung Sandya Thapa
Black and While “Splatter� dress, Rs. 2390,from FUEL, at Durbarmarg and Back leggins, Rs. 799, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka
“Forever 21� printed halter dress, Rs. 2850, from FUEL, at Durbarmarg
Pink draped blouse, Rs. 1750 and Black�belted� skirt, Rs. 1550, from FUEL, at Durbarmarg, White bag, Rs. 1499, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka
Black and White “Splatter� dress, Rs. 2390, from FUEL, Black leggins, Rs. 799, from Buttons, Black military shirt, Rs. 1599 by Buttons, Black beaded top, Rs. 1699, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka and Khakhi Shorts, Rs. 2300, from FUEL, at Durbarmarg
Ciffon leopard print shirt, Rs. 1699, from Buttons and Khaki leggins, Rs. 599, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka
Cotton T with netted rose detail, Rs. 2200, from FUEL, Tangerine shorts, Rs. 1050, from FUEL at Durbarmarg and Printed Summer Jute bag, Rs. 1299, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka
Pink and Black striped all over dress, Rs. 1650, from FUEL, at Durbarmarg
Neon Green Racebaca button up, Rs. 1890, from FUEL, Pink tank top, Rs. 350, from FUEL, Black Skirt, Rs. 1550, Teal Cocktail Dress, Rs. 1840, from FUEL, at Durbarmarg
Cotton Tee dress, Rs. 1599, from Buttons, at Patan Dhoka
Capturing the Spirit of Place Somewhere in the eastern region of Nepal is a hillside strewn with graves of local ancestry. Despite being once revered as a sacred space of worship, many of the graves on Thumki Hill have been recently disturbed by farming activities. But at the start of the year, a set of architects came to the village and now, six months later, came up with a building that not only reflects the sacred nature of the hilltop, but also the potential of architecture in art, ecology and spiritual portrayals. “Modern architecture is in search of mythology,” shares Travis Price, the founder of Spirit of Place, the organization that built the monumental piece at Thumki Hill. In partnership with the Culture and Sacred Spaces graduate program at the Catholic University of America, every semester the group works on a construction that is built in a different cultural setting with the involvement of local people. The main theme of the construction is to use the culture, beliefs and understandings of belonging into an architectural design that essentially encapsulates the ‘spirit of place’. Back in January Travis, along with Program Director Kathleen Lane, spent time in Namje Thumki talking with and learning from the Sharman teachers. The experience and information gained was then relayed to the graduate architecture students back in America who individually processed, analysed and played with the ideas before sharing them together as a group. Students tried to come up with what they felt would be appropriate portraits of the beliefs and ideas of the place. “Many times ideas overlap each other or have characters in common. We then merge together all these ideas, work some more on it and come up with a final outcome,” says Travis. At the beginning of June, at the end of the semester, the students came to the village and, in collaboration with the villagers, spent nine days building what can now be called not just an architectural landmark, but also a memorial to those before us. Although an architect by profession, and one with more than common accomplishments, Travis is also a philosopher and an environmentalist. Unlike many architects of the day, he seeks the worth of his creations in the messages they portray. Instead of only attempting to modernise, he infuses the modern with traditional ideas. Reflecting on the influence of ecology Travis says “looking at natural patterns is enough to drive and inspire. The first step is to see nature from a different perspective. This brings geometry and natural shapes together.”Stone blocks
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sourced locally were the chief construction material for the monument at Thumki Hill. Still, “architecture needs ecological balance but it also needs a story,” explains Travis. “As architects we have to find a metaphor to shape the space.” Questions that architects should be thinking about pertain to culture, antiquity, and ancestry and how to interpret these through a modern lens. “Even as deconstructionists,” he continues, “if you can embrace change and embrace the environment, you can create a new modernism.” And the whole effort behind Spirit of Place is to preserve aspects of culture. After all, “the most important thing is storytelling and memory being eradicated. It is almost as scary as the loss of the ecosphere.” The Monument The Spirit of Place monument at Thumki Hill captures how the villages evoke their ancestors. The seven metre squared landmark comprises of eighteen walls for the eighteen students that were part of the team. Each of the walls is made of stones which look like tombstones standing towards the sky. The corridors lead to a centerpiece which is a rectangular hole, representative of a grave, dug deep into the earth and topped with glass. People “approach it with a sense of mystery and walk down each passage way to a different infinity,” Travis reflects. Many villagers experiencing the monument for the first time “look in and then look up at the sky” as if remembering their ancestors. The project has local ownership owing to their involvement at each of the stages. The ultimate monument is a product of collective action and collective decisions. The community is mostly a Magar locality. The religious heads, Sharmans, are immensely trusted and consulted. The team “held a series of meetings with the Sharmans to help understand the sacred traditions and rituals of the Magar people.” And just as the fusion between modernism and traditionalism, there is collaboration between the locals and the foreigners. The transfer of skills is neither top to down, nor east to west. With many of the architecture students inexperienced in construction the local stone masons’ demonstrated all steps from how to make and pour concrete, to placing the stones and building a wall. The relationship with the community livens itself beyond that of the 9 day project. Other ideas were shared and stories exchanged about insulation and solar heating.
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Kathmandu: The urban problem For an emerging city Kathmandu is still packed with the sacred, yet the architecture does not often reflect the culture. The growth is great and necessary but it creates new headaches. The public space needs drastic attention. The identity of the residents needs to be reflected by the surrounding environment. Architects, as represents of the people, should look at reclaiming the public space, roads and places. Unplanned urbanization is beyond control. “People need to take a rough stand,” Travis urges at a conference to architecture students in Kathmandu. “The city will look and function better if we can redesign the streets and cityscape and slowly reroute it.” One of the main problems for Nepalese architects is to infuse the modern with the ancient components that make Kathmandu. In a city where high-rise buildings are competing with temples and structures from the last centuries and beyond, it is necessary to keep ones eye on the depth of the history. The emerging architecture is poisoning the old. When awful new buildings surround the old without any consideration, it is evident that the spirit of the old is lost. This means architects will have to take up responsibility and be accountable for the cities they create- a daunting but otherwise inspiring task. After all, they will not just be imitating the past but, from now, looking to innovate the future. The innovation needed in the futuristic beautification of Kathmandu is in many ways inspirable from the construction at Thumki Hill. The knowledge gained from the locals and their culture was fused into the design. This process, where the user inputs ideas and collaborates from the outset, means the monument will be far more immersed in the villagers. The idea of a shrine like place for respecting the ancestors came much more in harmony to the villagers than something they had no say over. Such should be the case with architecture. Architecture is not a competition; it is a conflux of thought. And the thoughts must be justifiably derived from what the user and designer both have to say. Spirit of Place- Spirit of Design is a one of a kind institute that brings together a symbiotic mixture of humanities and architecture. The program has shown a side of design and construction not commonly seen: the non-commercial one. Shaped very much like the architecture of the ecosphere movement from the 1970s, what the institute hopes to teach is that as much as the ecosphere needs to be conserved, the ethno-sphere also needs to be preserved. And, as the brain behind all major constructions, architects have a pivotal role to play in this preservation process.
TEXT : Bimochan Niraula 40
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Slamming Nepal Through Poetry The art of poetry has multiple forms that give an individual a medium to explore their inner thoughts and convey them through words. Gaining popularity all over the world, slam poetry, in the definitive term, is a spoken-word battle where poets predominately recite their own works that are then judged on a numeric scale by the organizers of the competition. But, beyond the technicalities, slam poetry is the fiery heart of several literary movements in this modern age driven by a desire to express a myriad of emotions through art. The history of slam poetry dates back to Black Arts Movement of 60s and 70s when performance art was used to demand black liberation. Marc Smith has since been credited for taking performance art to another level and pioneering the slamculture at the Get Me High Lounge, Chicago in November 1984. Since then, lyrical geniuses like Allen Ginsberg, Bob Holman, Gregory Corso and others have been giving a dynamic continuity to this mass culture. Slam poetry opened up in Nepal when, in September 2010, three experienced Americans slam poets – Danny Solis, Karen Finneyfrock and Matt Mason - conducted slam poetry workshops for youth in union with the US Embassy and local bookstore Quixote’s Cove. They conducted several such programs, live performances and even competitions in different venues around Kathmandu and Patan including Quixote’s Cove, GAA hall and House of Music. In their 10-days visit these veteran poets crafted a new world for young local poets, giving them a new medium to express their emotions in a more effective way. Since then, slam poetry in Nepal has been evolving at a remarkable pace and even gaining momentum amongst older generations who also appreciated this new channel of communication. Word Warriors – an outcome of the slam competition “Voice Your Words” organized by the US embassy – have been fuelling the fire and spreading their words out to a well receiving public audience. Although there are 6 active members of Word Warriors (Ujjwala Maharjan, Tsering Shrepa, Nayan Pokhrel, Sadhana Limbu, Gaurab Subba,Yukta Bajracharya and Dharma), this group is open to poets willing to join. Gaurab Subba, most experienced of this young group, explains how slam poetry, as a platform of expression, was a natural next step in Nepal’s performing arts culture. “People see slam as a good and healthy medium of communication…it goes back to the roots of people expressing themselves in an artistic space,” he
elaborates. “Drawing on the reciprocal energy between the crowd and performer a slam can be very very powerful.” This power is also derived by the unique way each poet expresses their work. “All elements of the human emotion are expressed during a performance session,” Gaurab elaborates. “Some people may be loud and in your face, while others may be more reserved but powerful enough with their presence as to have an impact.”Slam poetry can be about almost about anything – life, political wars, socio-commentary, even love. But, according to Yukta Bajracharya, a theme common in the Word Warriors circle has always been Kathmandu and a love for the city that resonates amongst most members. Despite presenting on similar themes, the individuality of each act ensures audiences go on a different journey with each performer. Gaurab cautions, though, that like music and acting people will soon find a formula. “People cannot let the context and a formula consume them. If people become a puppet reciting a formula then there is no creative flow.” Along with maintaining the creative flow through weekly meetings, Word Warriors aim to canonize their stimulating works through videos and books for which they collect funds raised through their shows. Evolving with the changes and experimenting all the time they are “trying to incorporate the poetry into music to make it more accessible to the public”. This was actually initiated in old Bollywood to help the films gain popularity and what Gaurab and his group, Lyrics Independence, are also trying to do with fusion of beat-boxing and poetry in more of a rap-style. Everyone around here has something to say about everything. Let it be good or bad, or through words or stones, eventually they do rupture them out. But the thing is that a stone can hit just once to one target, but words – they hit an infinite times to infinite targets. Slam poetry has given more force and accuracy to those targets here in Nepal where the option is either to “pick up a brick or pick up a pen.”
TEXT : Pratik Shrestha www.verse.com.np
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hangouts
Its summer It’s hot And, for a lucky few, its holidays!
That means it’s time to kick back, relax and enjoy idling away long afternoons with friends. Verse writers, Akriti Shilpakar, Anuj Jung Thapa and Laura McManus, trawled the streets of Lazimpat and Putalisadak to discover some new hang outs perfect for breezing through your summer days. We asked the chefs for their ideal summer fare and the barman for their most refreshing drink. 42
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No Name, A big reputation built with no name TEXT : Akriti Shilpakar
The name of the restaurant is what attracted me first. With no name and no expectations I just had to try out this place. Despite opening its doors just a few months ago, the popularity No Name has earned in this short time is remarkable. Located at Putalisadak, right across the Share Market building, No Name boasts the classic winning café combination of the right feel, good food and reasonable price. Unlike many of the restaurants in Putalisadak, this is not just another fast food chain located within the boring four walls of one of the busiest streets in town. No Name is an absolute delight. The exterior may not scream amazing but, hey, never judge a book by its cover. No Name has a surprisingly beautiful garden out at the back with the mini swings, slides, see-saw and rocking horse, creating a child’s oasis. The other section of the restaurant is the terrace seating, which is the only side that is visible from the street. Spacious and comfortable with huge umbrellas to save you from the sun, the terrace is the perfect place to relax on a lazy summer day. On recommendation, we had No Name’s specials; Mukka aalu (small punched unpeeled potatoes and chili sauce), BBQ pork chops with garlic sauce and chicken wings momo.
First came the Mukka aalu. Although the sauce made the dish similar to chips chilly, the unpeeled potato skins made the difference. The BBQ pork, smelling and looking gorgeous was enough to make our mouths water. The tender pork is served with rich ginger sauce with barbequed potato, asparagus and tomatoes on the side. The meat was not pink enough on the inside for me, but that did not affect the taste. This dish was a beautiful culinary experience. The perfect blend of the sauce and the pork is enough to cuddle one’s taste buds. I could not get enough of it. The momo stuffed chicken wings, on the other hand, was a little odd. I didn’t enjoy it as much as the other dishes, but that may be because I was already full. More enjoyment was derived from the Chinese style box it was served in. All in all, the food was lovely and very affordable; All three dishes and a drink for Rs.745. No Name also entertains guests with a bar and the lounge has delightful ambience which makes it the perfect place to meet your friends at the end of the day. The feel of the bar and the adjacent rooms is excellent for small parties and celebrations. Reservations are also available. No Name, has certainly earned a name in my books, check it out this summer and create a name for yourself.
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Cuppas Sip. Chat. Work. Relax. TEXT : Anuj Jung Thapa
The city of Kathmandu has a reputation for a lot of things but one of them has not been coffee. An average coffee drinker here in Kathmandu is still satisfied with the sub-par coffee that the typical coffee joint ever so happily pumps out. But, amidst this coffee desert, there has been a recent opening in the form of Cuppas which, despite seeming like a distant oasis, is now right on our doorstep in Putalisadak.
back relax; take a book that you’ve been meaning to finish, or catch up with those long lost friends on facebook. One of my favourite pastimes is, however, approaching people for a chat if you think they and or you can use the company! Cuppas brings all sorts of people together - the local artists, aspiring musicians, big shot businessmen, lost travellers and even noisy groups of college students.
Founded and run by a family of hard working and fun loving people, Cuppas’ objective is to simply serve pure and organic Nepalese coffee. The founder duo,Yuki Poudyal and Prashakta Poudyal call it the place to ‘sip, chat, work and relax.’ By looking at the variety of customers it holds one cannot help but agree. The moment you walk into Cuppas, the smell of the fresh ground coffee beans sends your senses into overdrive, you know you have entered another world away from the hustle and bustle of life in Kathmandu - and you really can’t help but smile.
As you step in one is greeted with young and friendly Baristas wearing funky Barista T-shirts printed with interesting coffee terms. The space created by eccentric artsy walls off to the right is a hub for young professionals out for a quick bite or informal meetings. But if you’re seeking a more chilled setting, a more relaxed corner off to the left is usually occupied by aspiring young people strumming their guitars, creating music, working with their laptop or reading a book from the Cuppas collection.You dictate your style.
Even though there are a million reasons to smile, one of the main reasons must be when one gets together with a gang of good friends at a regular junction which becomes your life’s little escape pod. Cuppas is all that and more. With the availability of high speed wi-fi internet connection, Cuppasgoers have the perfect place to work away from work. So, go ahead, order that café latte and the ice-cream brownie, and sit
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So, next time you go to Cuppas, smile, if you aren’t already -It’s infectious! Who knows, you might meet your future business partner or even your soul mate, better yet, you might find both in one. Next time you see someone smiling at you, why not say hi? You never know what might happen. And for those yet to try Cuppas or others who don’t go very often, go out and get into Cuppas vibe. One will soon find their own little piece of coffee shop karma.
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Hemingway’s Bar/Café “Isn’t it pretty to think so.” TEXT : Laura McManus
If you’re seeking somewhere chilled and down to earth, Hemingway’s is a hidden gem among the throng of bars and cafés in the popular Lazimpat district. Despite its proximity to the more uppity Raddison’s, Hemingway’s remains simple in its approach; a delicious and affordable menu, a wide selection of drinks, a clean and secure environment, and friendly staff that help you feel right at home. Inspired by his European travels, part owner Dipendra explains that “it was my dream to always open a café and while in Europe I saw a few different bars called Hemingway’s.” Indeed Hemingway’s stands out because it is slightly European in feel; A café come bar where comfortable and practical meets chic and sophisticated. While the walls are adorned with pictures of the literary great, Earnest Hemingway, the low strung lights eradiate mood filled elegance where it would not seem out of place to see a nice glass of red wine being enjoyed next to bottle of Turborg. The charm of Hemingway’s is that it is ideal for both the independent worker who would prefer to sit off to the side at one of the high bar tables and for groups of friends who want to sink back into the comfortable lounges and swap stories about their day.
Having mastered Nepali cuisine, the momos and alu Jeera being the best, Hemingway’s offers guests a barbeque on Friday and Saturday nights. An ideal setting for end of week drinks, the terrace barbeque, offering chicken and pork, is the perfect way to relax on balmy summer nights. Other dishes include Thai chicken, meatballs and wanton soup.Vegetarians must not miss the vege sizzler which will have you coming back for more. Regardless of the dish you order, though, the presentation of white plates delicately drizzled with sauces and garnished with seasonal herbs is enough to make you think you were dining five star. During the week you’ll be able to unwind with some jazz and blues while on the weekend gypsy Latino music picks up the pace. Soon, guests will also be able to sink back into the soft leather couches and enjoy live acoustic sets from some of Kathmandu’s most promising artists. Sports fan will be pleased that the football is a regular on the flat screen, and those seeking fast wifi can spend hours in uninterrupted internet heaven. For drivers, Hemingway’s boosts a large and free car park just beside the building
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amour des Summer Am I the same girl with thick geeky specks who recalls listening to stories of her great grandmother worshipping sun as God because it was the only visible and powerful thing was venerated? Am I the same little daddy’s girl who understood when he explained that “the sun gives us heat and light and helps us to remove darkness and brings light all around the world”? Am I the same girl with a clasped ponytail and Pinocchio nose who would run from her mothers lap just to peep through the window every morning to see the birds welcome the sun with a lovely chirping song? Am I the same girl who, at age five, would sit beneath the sun for an hour just because her aunt told her that sun provides vitamin D which is essential for your skin? And finally am I the same girl who when she saw the sun fully rise would yell to her little brother excitedly “it’s a new day, it’s a new day”? Caught up in the vortex of my hectic professional life, I don’t know if I realize the importance of the sun and summers anymore. But I still memorize the times that I did. So pacing through the wheels of my past, I remember back in school where I learnt two facts aboutsummer: One: summer is usually the warmest season of the year, occurring between spring and autumn. In the Northern Hemisphere that is June, July, and August. Or, as calculated astronomically, summer is the period extending from the summer solstice to the autumnal equinox. The second fact was we were guaranteed a two month vacation. And then in a gazebo amidst lime green lemonade, golden hued tans, Clinique- SPF 40, and lots of giggles came college. Here my knowledge extended a little more and I started thinking of summer as this seasonal delight when it was perfectly acceptable to ogle shirtless guys like it was a sport, wear your bikini, strapless, bandeau or halter neck day and night, and play even harder than you work.
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As if a spell, my innocence in school and kinkiness in college passed away like an open bottle of scotch. Presently I am almost dehydrated wrestling with a crafted couch in my small dingy room without an A. C, literally roaring at the sun like I never loved it earlier. Still frustrated with the partially functional cooler and my perplexed nutty brain that was trying to convince me that summer wasn’t that bad, I switched on the idiot box to catch a glimpse of my favorite fashion TV. Of course they were simply showing the scents and style of summer. Now that I don’t watch anything apart from fashion TV, I started irritably gazing at the crème de la crème of the fashion industry dressed up in hues of rich red, gorgeous green, beautiful blue, pretty purply pinks, yummy yellow posing and pouting in front of multihued striped walls and dreamy shelled beaches. I presume my brain deciphered my instant liking for summers and only when the scorching heat passed away with a watermelon cocktail. I was reminded “don’t let the dull dead summers take on you woman! Summer is red, white and blue. It’s flags and fireworks, hot dogs and mustard, cold watermelon and sweet corn and its much more that you are failing to see.” I realized at once that the innocence of school and kinkiness of college wasn’t lost after all. Fashion TV and my wit managed to remind me of the tinges and vogues of summer. But, still, don’t the roasted rays of summer really get to you sometimes? So what do you do? Perhaps sit idle indoors or maybe surf the net. Ultimately, though, summer is bound to come around every year so the best solution is just to embrace it.
Splendid ways to thrash the summer heat Come summer and its time to think of ways to beat the heat. While having fun in the sun, we may actually throw caution to the wind! Dr. G S Rao, Managing Director of Yashoda Hospitals, says that heat-related ailments can really be injurious if not immediately addressed. According to Dr. Rao, some of the most ordinary ailments we face in such high temperatures include dehydration, heat exhaustion, heat cramp, skin diseases, heat (or sun) strokes and water-borne diseases like diarrhea. In order to prevent dehydration, make sure you drink lots of water. “Symptoms of dehydration include thirst, light-headedness, dry skin, fatigue, less-frequent urination, dizziness, muscle cramping and dry mouth,” says Dr Rao. People also have a tendency to suffer heat strokes during this season. These can be fatal as well resulting in death. Heat stroke symptoms include
headache, dizziness, high body temperature, dry, flushed and hot skin without sweat, confusion or disorientation, fatigue or sluggishness, rapid heartbeat, seizure and hallucinations. “If someone is stricken with heat stroke, move the person indoors, remove clothes, apply ice packs to groin and armpits, apply cool water and fan to stimulate sweat and call for medical assistance immediately,” advises Dr.Rao. Another ailment that crops up in high temperatures is diarrhea. “Diarrhea generally occurs due to food poisoning, a health hazard faced due to consumption of contaminated food. Summer is characterized by high heat as well as humidity that are considered as main factors for high contamination of food with bacteria, since bacteria thrive in these conditions,” explains Dr Rao.
Tips to beat the heat: - Wear light-coloured, cottons - Protect yourself from the heat with sunscreen lotion, caps, umbrellas - Drink plenty of fluids to keep the body hydrated - Don’t eat raw food from street stalls/street vendors - Ensure all vegetables are cleaned well before being consumed - Don’t venture out between 1 pm and 4 pm - Electrolyte balance is a must so drink fresh fruit juices, coconut water and the like
TEXT : Roli Mittal Jalan
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Riding Into History Interview by Bimochan Niraula and Rhea Gurung Nirakar Yakthumba, of 1974 AD, a well known figure in the Nepali music scene, is now making a name for himself as a cycle and environmental enthusiast. As one of the founders of Life Cycle, a cycling resort in Hetauda, Nirakar talks to Verse about the organization, the benefits of cycling and his hopes for greater accessibility to alternate modes of transport in Kathmandu.
How did your early days influence your ideas towards environmental conservation? I spent a lot of time outdoors: hiking, cycling, camping and rockclimbing. I loved nature and spent a lot of time in the wilderness.
Tell us something about Life-cycle.
How have the local people been responding?
Four of us started this organization. We began with a plan to take cycling to places where mainstream tourism has not reached. We have started camping in places where people can go stay, relax, cycle and swim. Although it has only been around for two months, after September it will be carried on in full-swing. We are trying to project this in the local as well as international market.
We have been training some local people to work with us and this has provided employment opportunities. Their involvement has been an integral part of our organization. We have also been trying to make proper bike parks in these places using natural and local materials.
Have you allocated specific locations for these cycling trips?
Cycling is something I enjoy a lot and you might as well do something you enjoy. If you manage to make your hobby your job it does not feel like you are working.
Do you always use a cycle?
We have started the program in parts of Hetauda, BishankhuNarayan and Nawalparasi.
I cycle most of the time but I use a vehicle too. It is not practical to cycle all the time. I work as a cycle guide and regularly take groups on cycling expeditions.
What age groups of people have usually been coming as part of your cycling trips? There have been people from all age groups.
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What made you come up with the idea for this initiative?
Let us know something about Chain, the company. Chain was started by twelve cyclists. We got together and designed the first mountain bike of Nepal. The parts are manufactured in China and assembled and sold here.
During your travels, have you found any difference between the cycling scenario here in Nepal and abroad?
The bikes made here are cheaper. The purpose of manufacturing these bikes was to allow everyone to be able to afford a mountain bike. A foreign mountain bike comes for around 40 thousand rupees or above, while these bikes will cost around 20 thousand rupees.
In many foreign countries the government encourages citycycling. There are minimum charges for cyclists and separate cycle stations and cycle lanes etc. There are a lot of facilities unlike Nepal.
As a cyclist, how challenging do you find the roads of Kathmandu? It is really very dangerous to cycle in the streets of Kathmandu. We do not have dedicated lanes and cycle signs. The traffic is very crazy and you have to be very careful while riding a cycle.
How do you plan to carry this project forward? I do not know about road biking, but mountain biking is certainly coming up and I’m sure it will do well. We are going to do as much as possible to help it. It is good for health, environment and tourism. That is why we are promoting mountain biking. I cannot say
anything about road biking though. I would not advise a young biker to ride on Kathmandu’s streets because it is dangerous. I would recommend them to ride the bicycle outside the valley and enjoy the nature there instead.
go green
What difference can a user find between imported bikes and these bikes manufactured in Nepal?
Any last words to those enthusiastic about cycling? Cycling is not a competition. Try to make it a lifestyle.You will always enjoy it.You’ll be able to see different things and places, especially in Nepal. I’ve been able to go to many places in Nepal and meet many people which I would never have been able to had I been in a car.
Can public transport be replaced by cycle transport in Kathmandu? Of course it can. In the early 90s, when there were conflicts between India and Nepal for the Trade Treaty, everyone was riding bicycles. It was fine then, we didn’t even require traffic lights. The environment was saved of pollution. People still reached their destinations on time.
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SADHUS
the great renouncers
S
adhus are an enigma to me, living the mystery of ancient questions that have no answers. Tricksters, derelicts, madmen, charlatans, wanderers, mystics and yogis, their boldly painted bodies confront us with essential questions at the heart of existence. I found them wandering through crowded polluted urban centers begging, to villages and what is left of forest and mountain pilgrimage trails. Like walking mysteries of the human soul, for me, sadhus provoke the question, who am I? What do I need, what really is important, and the more ancient presettled desire to wander in search of god? Most importantly, they remind us that the answer for all things only lies within our own elusive hearts. In my adopted home of Kathmandu, some sadhus survive primarily off alms made from allowing tourists to photograph them. They are a spectacle and love to play their assigned role in the illusion or drama of society. Their masks are thickly painted on their naked bodies. Sadhus have formally abandoned conventional www.verse.com.np
- Thomas Kelly
time; their world is dense with its own complex politics, social hierarchy, taboos and customs, often making access challenging. Volatile and unpredictable, spontaneous photography of sadhus can actually be dangerous.You can easily be trampled or attacked if you immerse yourself in a naga baba procession after a mass Khumba Mela bathing. Or, without permission from a Mahant to work inside an Akhara, be accused of being a spy and have to answer to a Sadhu tribunal. There’s no such thing as achieving photographic acceptance within the Sadhu mandala. For me, photographing at ritual time is always the most dynamic and fluid. Once rapport has been established, a camera is tolerated, often with a sense of lila, or maya, play and illusion. It took repeated visits over many seasons and melas, to occasionally reach this level. My initial inexplicable attraction to the Sadhu world was mostly visual. As a photographer, I loved how they allowed their bodies to become symbols of the sacred- from walking around naked to remind us of our
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naked selves, to wearing ash to remind us what our bodies become, to dreadlocks to remind us of our natural wild natures devoid of social convention. Their bodies wear texts, which speak volumes regarding sacred symbolism. A sadhu’s body is a map of the Hindu universe, for the body is a microcosm of the cosmos. Like a canvas, the colour and painted symbols aid in purification, inspire, and remind of the timeless divine beyond body and form. The body is used to tell stories. As the sadhus works towards an egoless state, he becomes the very symbols he’s painted whether it be Shiva, Vishnu, or Rama, the colors refer to esoteric inner visions and possible alchemical states of consciousness.
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The real goal of a Sadhu is to achieve an attitude of non-attachment and transcendence of the physical body. As a photographer, I sometimes like to hide behind my lens, become invisible.Yet for sadhus, it is their very outlandish visibility, the powerful symbols of the divine they paint on their bodies, which help them not to become invisible, but to transcend self. Disturbing, annoying, inspiring, exasperating, irrational, wise and powerful, photographing sadhus is like photographing a living question that people have forgotten to ask.
Sadhu books in three different sizes are available for purchase at Thomas Kelly’s office in Kathmandu, Nepal. Large : US$222 Medium : US$111 Small : US$32 Unbinded large : US$183 Place your order at: tkelly@photo.wlink.com.np Tel/Fax # 977-01-443-8883, # 977-01-4431-954 Mobile # 977-98510-26738 P.O.B: 1406 Kathmandu, Nepal.
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Award-winning photographer Thomas L. Kelly, along with his wife, anthropologist and herbalist Carroll Dunham, and their boys Liam Kelly, 13, and Galen Kelly, 9, have called the Himalayas home for over thirty years. They have produced award-winning films on the Himalayas for BBC, PBS, ITV, Channel 4, National Geographic and CBC. They love nothing more than drinking deep with kindred spirits the spacious inner winds of meditation and Buddhist ritual. For those interested in joining them in Mongolia at Lapis Sky Camp combined with riding fast horses in vast spaces of wilderness with the wind on their cheeks please check out the website for Mongolian trip: http://wildearthjourneys.com/
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music
Rock Sitar Line-up Bijaya Vaidhya – Sitar Pratap K.C – Flute Suren Lama - Guitar Nikhil Tuladhar – Drums/ Percussions Deepak Shakya – Bass Rock Sitar, an Eastern style influenced rock band led by sitarist virtuoso Bijaya Baidya, has been around since 2008 and has performed extensively in and out of the nation.Verse caught up with the group, as they were getting ready to embark upon the Blues festival happening in Bruges, Belgium. What sets Rock Sitar apart from other Eastern influenced rock bands is Vaidhya’s standing sitar, which is contrasting to the conventional idea of a sitar played whilst seated. The sound intonation of the instrument (tuned to E) is also different compared with a standard sitar. On stage,Vaidhya takes on a persona, which reflects a true musician who has pioneered a new kind of sound. He commented, “I always wanted to play guitars. However, I could not find a place to go and learn the instrument in depth. So I chose sitar because I could study the instrument well.” He completed his Masters Degree in Music from Allahbad, India. Every member has been involved for over a decade in the active music scene. Most notably,Vaidhya is popularly identified with Sur Sudha, an instrumental group popular since the 90’s and Tuladhar with the popular folk rock band, Nepathya. Their music is mostly instrumental and explores Eastern melodies over a rock setting. Both the flute and the sitar share the melodies while the guitars and bass provide the rock foundation. The overall sound is a unique blend, which the group says, is an addition to the traditional elements found in eastern classical music. One of the easiest ways to become an active listener is by noticing the chemistry between the players, live. It says a lot about how the art form is explored. Watching them live, it was clear that not only were these musicians experienced but they also made it look seemingly easy. The improvisation aspect was
very alive in their playing and the themes of the compositions were reflected here as well. Vaidhya composes most of their songs by coming up with the melody which is then built upon by each member, providing their ideas into the structure. Till date, they have released 3 albums: Chants of Himalaya, Rock Sitar and Sitar Sudha. The songs are very emotional in nature and though instrumental, they do have a voice crying out emotions that leave a deep lasting impression. They make you want to come back and listen again. The soothing melodies give their sound a distinct eastern feel, which comfortably fits over the rock elements. The name Rock Sitar thus is a perfect description of the nature of the band’s goal to fuse Eastern and Western components without harming the musical output of either side. Rock Sitar have toured the globe extensively and are very excited this time about their summer tour of Belgium. On an international level, they believe they are representing Nepali art and culture through their music. They are also anxious about the audience that will be part of the festival there. Though the members are not unfamiliar to performing in different groups, ensembles and other performances abroad, this tour is a first together to Belgium. The sight of Vaidhya pulling a Jimi-move on the guitars with his teeth is always a welcome sight. Other on-stage antics include flute runs, sounding like shred runs by K.C. and diverse blues licks from Lama. Moreover, it reflects the positive energy coming out of the band as a whole. The mellow nature of their songs shows expression of the top level from this bunch of talented upbeat professional musicians in the modern Nepali music scene.
TEXT : Yuvash Vaidya PHOTO : Umesh Shrestha www.verse.com.np
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music
The Shadows TEXT : Laura Mc Manus They claim to be mainstream, but different from the rest. They made their mark by bringing Nepali rock anthems to life which earned them the accolade of best group and best performers in 2006. Then they disappeared. With two guitarists busy in Australia studying sound engineering, The Shadows Nepal took a break, performing only one tour together within the last three and half years. In this time new bands have formed endeavouring to fill the rock music void The Shadows left behind. Now, after a much anticipated and long wait, The Shadows are back – well nearly! Before rocking out to fans at home, The Shadows will embrace an Australian audience playing songs from both their second album, Hidne Manchhe Ladchha, and soon to be released third studio album. Released in 2005, Hidne Manchhe Ladchha is a combination of hard and alternate rock. Making a point of representing real people and depicting real issues in their lyrics, The Shadows strike a chord amongst listeners who can relate to the different themes of their songs. This includes nature, navigating a new modernity, persevering against adversity, nepotism, humanism and peace. I sit down with Swapnil Sharma, the lead singer of The Shadows Nepal, to find out a little bit more about the band, their impending Australian tour and what local fans can expect when they burst back onto the Nepali rock music scene at the end of the year.
I have been in Nepal for a while now and haven’t heard of the Shadows. Where have you guys been hiding? We haven’t been hiding, we’ve just been apart and taking a break. Both the bass guitarist (Amit Pradhan) and lead (Prakash Rasaily) are in Australia, one in Melbourne and the other in Sydney, studying sound engineering so we couldn’t do much here in Nepal.
And what did you do in all that time? We were in such a good spot when Amit and Prakash left that I wanted to maintain the
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momentum going and keep The Shadows visible to Nepali audiences. We hired a few different session guitarists who played with us at different events. But the guys did come back in 2010 for vacation. We played 10 concerts in all different parts of Nepal and received a huge response from the fans. We are definitely ready and motivated to do that again.
But first you have an Australian tour? Yeah, it’ll be the first time we play overseas as a band, everyone is really looking forward it. Last year Amit and Prakash performed at a few festivals and in Nepali music programs in Melbourne and Sydney. They had a really good reception from both Nepali’s living in Australia and the locals.
So you have some fans there already? It seems that way. Australia is a popular destination for Nepali students. Many would have known us years ago so they are waiting for us to come. Not many Nepali acts make it down there so I think they are nearly more excited than we are. Plus with the internet and facebook people can stay connected with the music even when they are not here. And I have a few friends who also live in Australia so it’ll be great to see them again.
Although the songs you compose are mostly Nepali, do you have plan to sing a few tracks in English for the Australian crowd? I sometimes sing in English. The last track on Hidne Manchhe Ladccha, Looking at the Sky, is entirely in English and I do covers as well. But the most exciting thing for us as a band is that we’ll be performing some of the new songs from the next album. A few have been released as singles but we haven’t had much chance to play them live. Beyond that, though, it is hard to schedule songs. Much of being a rock band and performing live is that you have to read the crowd.You have to feel their energy; if they want fast, we’ll give them fast. If the mood is a little slower than we’ll tone it down a bit.
What is the creative process like for The Shadows – how do you compose the lyrics? As the vocalist I tend to represent the band as the writer but most of the time it is a group effort. Everybody is always on the lookout for a new concept. Inspiration is everywhere. It could be from something you read while walking down the street or a conversation you have with someone. Our songs have a realistic, universal meaning so ideas can come from the everyday. Whenever I write songs I have to work at it for a while. To express social issues you have to go to many places and talk to many people.
What’s your favourite song? My favourite is Prakriti. It’s a popular song related to saving the nature and how we are all linked to the environment in a certain way. Every time I perform it I make a point of talking about the messages the song contains, about how we represent ourselves as nature. The audience response is very positive.
Any plans for a new album? Once we come back from the tour and then Amit and Prakash join us at the end of the year, we will have a lot of time to concentrate on performing at home and working on a third album. Actually we have already recorded seven tracks for the next album and a few, like Kheladi Hun Ma and Paisa, have been released as singles. There are lots of new bands on the scene now so it’ll be nice to get back out there. www.verse.com.np
What can audiences expect from the new album? It is still important for us to create songs with meaning. In a way the third album explores similar issues to before but the songs are written based on the current situation. One song Naya Nepal Purano Gatibidhi, for example, looks at the politicians repeated request for a ‘new Nepal’ but the song highlights how their practices remain that of an old Nepal. We want to send a message that it’s not ok and we want people to realise this. We have already aired a few songs and have had a good response. Something we didn’t do much of on the last album was play slower tracks. This time if we have to convey a soft message then will play something a little slower. But the feel of those tracks will still hit the audiences hard and with meaning; they give you more time to think.
Well enjoy Sydney. I would suggest going to the beach but it is winter now. Thank you, I am sure I will. Even if it is winter and cold I have to go to the beach and jump in! We are landlocked here so it will be my first time to see the ocean.
The Shadows Nepal are touring Australia in July 23rd July in Melbourne at HiFi Bar 24th July in Brisbane at the Souths League Club 31st July in Sydney at Oxford Art Factory
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promotion
Hyundai launches its new brand Motto NEW THINKING. NEW POSSIBILITIES. Hyundai Motor Company, the world’s fastest-growing automotive company by brand, officially announced its new brand direction and statement at the 2011 North American International Auto Show in Detroit. The new brand statement “New Thinking. New Possibilities.” encompasses Hyundai’s new brand concept, “Modern Premium”, which aims to provide customers with emotional value and experiences beyond expectations. It’s bigger, smarter and driven by the desire to share stylish, high quality and efficient vehicles with everyone. New Thinking means challenging convention and pushing boundaries. And New Possibilities means coming up with more forward-thinking ideas and solutions. Hyundai’s new way of thinking is to share premium value with more people and make new possibilities for people and planet by constantly generating new ideas. It gives an opportunity to take a look at the new vision for the future of Hyundai. MODERN PREMIUM The essence of Hyundai Hyundai believes there is a difference between making cars, and making cars that make a difference. While traditional premium is usually linked with high prices for the privileged few, Hyundai’s “Modern Premium” concept is based on the idea that high quality does not necessarily require a high price for a limited class. Hyundai will offer highend, high-quality values at a surprisingly attainable price that customers never experienced or expected. Today, customers do not believe that expensive cars with unnecessary technology are premium. They no longer want to simply show off their status. Instead, they want their core needs
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fulfilled at an accessible price and with a car that exceeds their expectations; a car that reflects their values and the times in which they live. “Hyundai is not just a company that makes cars. Hyundai is a company that creates new possibilities. Our goal is not to be the biggest car company. Our goal is to be the most loved automotive company on the planet, and to be a trusted lifetime partner of our owners,” said Vice Chairman Chung, Hyundai Motor Company. HYUNDAI: CHALLENGE CONVENTION! Until now, the auto industry has progressed through technical advancement - sort of like stacking one block on another. But this approach is no longer sufficient. People want technology for people, not just for cars; progress for mankind, not just for the auto industry. They want a car company that contributes to the progress of mankind and sympathizes with humanity. If consumers go through a change, then we should too. The age of high-end premium and cost-effective pricing competition is gone. We have to change with our consumers, offering a new kind of premium that will engrave the name of Hyundai into their minds. We cannot achieve this with only one block stacked atop another. Our kind of premium is more like widening a circle. We must draw a bigger circle than has ever been seen in the auto industry. Widening a circle is much more difficult www.verse.com.np
than adding a single block, but it is an achievable goal we willingly aim for. Hyundai will continue to re-invent itself - to “widen the circle” - and stretch toward these new Modern Premium values. We see the way things could be, not the way they are. WHAT ELSE IS A CAR TO YOU? In the most basic sense, a car is just a way to get from point A to B. But in reality, it is a place for much more - first dates, bonding time with the kids, quiet time alone. It’s a great place to store your gear, enjoy great music, spend a quick moment studying before an exam, or even take a nap or have a meal. Hyundai’s goal is to create new values and a new culture that will upgrade the in-vehicle experience. Hyundai makes cars to enhance quality of people’s life. We can stretch our customers’ fulfillment by constantly seeking out new values and thinking, developing ideas that give new meaning to the time we spend in our cars. This will be possible only once we move beyond the outdated concept that a car is just a means of transportation. A premium experience today is far more than simply offering transportation; it is about delivering new and vibrant experiences on top of the fundamental requirements. We don’t sell cars, we sell New Thinking. New Possibilities.
HYUNDAI PREMIUMS IN NEPAL Laxmi InterContinental P. Ltd.; sole distributor of Hyundai for Nepal, revealed the new Sonata and Tucson. Taking styling cues from Hyundai’s ‘Fluidic sculpture’ design language, the vehicles reflect the spirit of change at Hyundai, and represents the company’s bold new concept of “Modern Premium” - the philosophy that premium quality and characteristics should be accessible to everyone.
THE UTMOST. MADE IRRESISTIBLE Tucson First impression counts for a lot. Set eyes on the new Hyundai Tucson and we bet you’ll find your second and third glances are just as rewarding. Synthesis of flawless, cutting edge design, embodying style in every curve, sporty and powerful, yet, refined and relaxed. And when it comes to safety and security, the new Tucson is all equipped that gives you all the assurance you need and even beyond your expectation.
THE FUTURE IS HERE and it is shaping up nicely Sonata Within seconds of getting acquainted with a Sonata, you will begin to wonder if it’s still today. The breath taking exterior design with rigid surface and structure that creates impression of constant, graceful motion. Inside, you will be surrounded by features capable of doing things that will transform your expectation of what a car can do. Indeed, everything about the Sonata - its sharp looks, next generation technology, and uncommon luxury and style - speaks uncannily of tomorrow.
Nirakar Shrestha, MD Laxmi InterContinental P. Ltd. With the global introduction of Hyundai Motor Company’s new brand statement “New Thinking. New Possibilities.”, we here at Laxmi InterContinental are pleased to implement the overall brand philosophy in Nepal. The new thinking of HMC relates to the new benefits that it will provide for its customers enjoyment. It seeks to provide additional values sought by society today (enabling more people to enjoy premium values at a fair price). HMC refers these new values as New Premium, Hyundai Premium, or Modern Premium. And Laxmi InterContinental is committed to deliver truly Hyundai Premium along with other services to its valued customers. www.verse.com.np
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travel - Liza Weber Men play at tragedy because they do not believe in the reality of the tragedy that is actually being staged in the civilised world. 24.05.11 Abu Dabi 12.05am And so I begin with the end, scribbling my thoughts down in Abu Dabi’s airport waiting-lounge, glancing occasionally at the screen for my EY015 flight home to Manchester Airport, England. My two months of travelling in Nepal is sadly behind me but I hope to rekindle some memories here on these pages for you. When I was asked one week ago if I was interested in writing a monthly travel article for the newly launched Verse Magazine, I blindly took the bull by its horns -what with being an English Literature Student as of September- thinking it would not only be an exciting means through which I could experiment with my expression but also something fun and because it all came into play relatively fortuitously. And now I’m sitting here chewing my biro, my mind journeying down memory lane and wondering whether any of what I’ve seen, smelt or heard can fascinate and inspire a readership. What is travel writing? What is it exactly to ‘travel’? I sit here in this sterile and cold chair, surrounded by travellers poised over Internet pods, their sunken faces illuminated by the blue screen light. Everyone’s zoning in. Or zoning out. The cyber snare soon pulls me in and before I know it I find myself logging into Facebook telling the world “what’s on my mind?” Tragic, isn’t it? We have become like spiders no longer searching the world web but spinning it. Mapping finely tuned mandalas of self representation. And there’s no denying I’m a guilty party, having bored my 597 facebook ‘friends’ silly with holier-than-thou gap-year soul-searching reflections. I remember, (now blushing at the thought), writing from Namche Bazaar on the road to Everest Base Camp, enlightening my cyber entourage with the following quote from Jon Krakauer’s novel ‘Into Thin Air’:
A profound statement such as this, and there’s no doubt there, has to have my audience thinking that through my travels I’m finding myself right? That is the point isn’t it…the great affair of moving is to lose your luggage and retreat to the world within. None of us like to play the tourist with a Nikon camera hung over one shoulder, so we play at our own small tragedies instead, adding yet more and more adjectives to our tall tales of bare-footed wanderings (you’ve seen the hippies in Freak Street!). But I will say now that my tales are not so tall and I write merely as a tourist. Simply seeing. Having finally boarded the plane I browse the flight entertainment, scrolling through the myriad movie junk until I happen upon Peter Weir’s new release ‘The Way Back’. Inspired by ‘The Long Walk’, a book by Slawomir Rawicz, a Polish POW in the Soviet Gulag, the film follows a band of soldiers as they escape the chains of communism through indomitable human will alone. Theirs is a harrowing story of man’s primal spirit to roam his world a freeman.132 minutes later and I’m exhausted, emotionally and physically, having crossed Siberian forests, Mongolian deserts and Himalayan Mountains. And they travelled by FOOT alone. Without being facetious, as theirs in an incomparable account, there were no tempos, Suzuki taxis or Sherpa mules to transport them to freedom. So I finally ask you, before you decide to start reading the world through my eyes each month, to take a moment to stop and see the world today for its accessibility and to relish the freedom of our feet. But then the notion of the traveller’s freedom is of course relative to context and has changed over time. My Father, travelling in Nepal thirty years ago owned no mobile, no ipod, no laptop, just a few flimsy airmail letters for one rupee twenty five. Contacting the outside world meant a two to three hour wait at the Post Office calling Europe for the line to be relayed via Moscow and Stockholm. Today we take our world with us. Just perhaps we’re carrying too much baggage!
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street
Word on the Street Interview by Rhea Gurung and Bimochan Niraula
Question: What do you feel about the emerging instances of street-art in Kathmandu?
19 Kishor,
Suraj, 20
This will surely bring some uniqueness to the city. It gives a new look to Kathmandu, which is also nice.
It is a form of art. Many of these people, mostly foreigners, must have it as their hobby. It is also one of their many interests, like Hip-hop.
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Rabita,
Karun,
If it is for a good purpose, then it must be good. They must try to bring positive messages through these. It must all be for development of the nation.
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Prakash
, 50
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This is good work and people must continue to do so. It is better than the political slogans we see on the walls. These must be used to spread messages of awareness among people. If advertisements saying you must drink can be found so widely here, these should say you must not drink. And most importantly, people must be made aware about keeping the city clean by these methods.
They seem to be making a mess of the walls, but this mess looks a bit good. It has not been significant enough to cause any difference. But they must make their meanings clearer for us to understand.
Question: What have you eaten in Nepal that have made your eyes ‘pop-out’?
lland Marjol ejn, H
, Ho e t t e d a ern
B
olland
I like the veg momos very much. It’s everywhere and it’s very different but there was one place in Chitwan that was the best. And there’s one place in Pokhara that’s called Budhaa Restaurant and it says on the side “Cheap and Best” and it’s got the nicest fish curry.
It was dal-bhat in Manasalu. It was cheap and good!
e
Laur
I ate one momo and it burnt my mouth. It was around Sankhu I think.
It has to be the veg momo right here in Kathmandu.
land
Eng , e i n n A
Xavier, F
rance www.verse.com.np
ce
ran F , t n
Very hot curry. I had it at a place called ‘Just Past Tender’ and I’m just going to go there again because it was so good.
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movie review
Brainwashing Your Face Exit Through the Gift Shop A few weeks ago, an image of Osama Bin Laden’s face painted on the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil was reported to be Banksy’s latest stunt. This could immediately sound like a hoax (it was), were it reported under a different name, but it was Banksy, the one who painted nine images on the walls of the West Bank in Palestinian territories. Banksy, who succeeded in placing his own work in between classic, century-old museum art pieces; Banksy, the world’s greatest and sneakiest freak of nature. After thousands of canvases, successful installations, empty paint cans, and success in avoiding the cops, he had found another way to make art. It was only last year that the world saw a fulllength Banksy film documentary, and we thought we’d finally catch a clearer glimpse of him, but we don’t. If anything, more questions are raised. Exit Through the Gift Shop can and will make people wonder how the graffiti ninja did it, but it’s possible that he’s
conned his audience. Again. What happens in the film: Thierry Guetta, a French man selling vintage clothes for a living, is obsessed with filming everything around him. He finds out that his cousin is Space Invader, a French Street artist known for his mosaic tile works. Because of this, Thierry developed an interest for street art. He started following different street artists and eventually meets Obey (Andre the Giant has a Posse) creator Shepard Fairey. He follows Fairey and other artists wherever they go—filming the process of printing and stenciling to the installation of the pieces on the streets. Eventually, Thierry hears about Banksy, who surprisingly agrees to be filmed. The French man follows Banksy everywhere and when all the footage is done and edited, Banksy decided that Thierry’s just “someone with mental problems who happened to have a camera,” and what he made “was an hour and a half of unwatchable nightmare trailers.” Banksy’s solution: Thierry should let go of the
Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 2
The final chapter begins as Harry, Ron, and Hermione continue their quest of finding and destroying the Dark Lord’s three remaining Horcruxes, the magical items responsible for his immortality. But as the mystical Deathly Hallows are uncovered, and Voldemort finds out about their mission, the biggest battle begins and life as they know it will never be the same again.
Transformers:Dark of the Moon
Shia LaBeouf returns as Sam Witwicky in Transformers: Dark of the Moon. When a mysterious event from Earth’s past erupts into the present day it threatens to bring a war to Earth so big that the Transformers alone Cars 2 will not be able to save us. Star race car Lightning McQueen and his pal Mater head overseas to compete in the World Grand Prix race. But the road to the championship becomes rocky as Mater gets caught up in an intriguing adventure of his own: international espionage.
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camera so he can do the documentary himself, and go out and make art. Thierry obeys this, starts calling himself “Mr. Brainwash,” produces one of the highest selling art shows, and sells meaningless pieces adored by (rich) people and the media. This, again, sparks the never-ending debate on how important a piece of art is, and how it’s supposed to be appreciated. Thierry wheatpasting a huge print of his face in the streets makes for interesting debate on the philosophy of street art. If you’d interpret this as a real documentary, you’ll see how Banksy experiences absurd real-life events on overnight artists like Thierry, and how even he—a street art god— cannot control it. While the Frenchman spent just a few months working on a show and became more focused on its publicity rather than the pieces, everyone he filmed in the beginning showed passion; working on their craft for years (Fairey specifically mentioned that he has been doing it for more than 10 years).
“Most artists take years to develop their style, Thierry seemed to miss out on all those bits,” said Banksy. Let’s say everything in the movie actually happened—some French guy with a video camera happens to be Space Invader’s cousin, was entertained by Fairey, got ahold of Banksy (who is possibly not human), and became a millionaire because of half-baked, reprinted copies of photoshopped crap dubbed “art”—isn’t it just as interesting as the idea that none of those things really happened? Thierry knew nothing about street art before hanging out with the ones who live by it, but once he got the idea, he became a street artist himself. If the
documentary’s a hoax, on the other hand, you will still see a commentary on how to be an artist, and what is needed to fully become one. Being able to print large papers to stick on walls does not make one an artist; that having a moniker and a Sharpie does not immediately make one a graffiti artist. Whether it’s fact or fiction, this film’s a ten. And it didn’t even need Beck’s cameo to prove that it’s awesome. The great thing about this whole thing is it doesn’t even matter anymore if the movie’s a fake or not. Either way, it is a work that illustrates something that has happened, is happening, and will happen with this counterculture and the whole art world in general.What we get from
this is another form of Banksy’s genius. Once again, he did something to confuse and entertain the audience. This is no spoiler, but pay attention to what happens to the huge slab of concrete at the end of the film. Read what’s written on it and look at what it’s doing. Never has there been any kind of dystopian suggestion that is so hilarious, serious, and entertaining all at the same time. “That’s why I call myself Mr. Brainwash. It’s because everything that I do... somewhere... it brainwash your face!” explained Thierry. Truer words have never been spoken.
TEXT : Ofelia Sta. Maria
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book review
2 States: The story of my Marriage
-Chetan Bhagat 2 States is yet another bestseller by Chetan Bhagat, the author of Five Point Someone, One Night @ the Call Center and 3 Mistakes of My Life. Although similar to his other works in that the story follows events in the writer’s life, 2 States gets that little more personal as Bhagat opens up on the story of his marriage. Krish is a Punjabi boy brought up in Delhi while Ananya is a Tamil Brahmin from Chennai. Even today, inter-cultural marriages are not supported by many people in India. The book draws on this theme by exploring how this couple had to convince everyone of their love and
The Queen and I – Sue Townsend
You’re Next - Gregg Hurwitz
Townsend, author of the phenomenally successful Adrian Mole books, here brings off an audacious notion with considerable elan. She imagines a Britain where an unforgiving, newly elected Republican Party decides that the entire Royal Family must learn to live like other Britons--or in their case, like desperately poor lower-class Britons on a hideous housing estate in a provincial city.
Mike Wingate, abandoned by his father at four and raised in foster care, is finally living the life he’s always dreamed of-he’s happily married with a precocious 8-year-old daughter, and his construction company is about to finish a “green” housing development that will secure a solid future for them all. But then Dust to Dust – Heather Graham something from his own past, a past he doesn’t Not long ago, Scott Bryant would have considered even remember, comes back to visit terror on him himself an ordinary guy. But one act of heroism has and his family. changed his life forever-or at least until the apocalypse occurs. Because the end of the world is on its way. Suddenly and inexplicably possessed of superhuman strength, Scott finds himself allied with the enigmatic and alluring Melanie Regan in a quest to find the mysterious Oracle in hopes of averting the absolute destruction that threatens. 66 www.verse.com.np
It is indeed interesting to read how different two cultures from the same country can be. fight for their happiness. The story starts from the lunch line at IIMA mess hall where the two protagonists met. From here they become friends and fall in love. But the story really begins from the meeting of the boy and the girl’s family. Although Krish keeps reminding Ananya of the fact that their love will not be easily accepted by their families, Ananya remains confident for she believes her parents will support her choice. As for Krish’s parents, she thinks they would accept her happily for who wouldn’t want an intelligent, smart and beautiful daughter-in-law? Not much guessing is required to know that the former was right. So, both of them have to take turns in persuading their parents to agree to their marriage, all the while keeping their love strong throughout all the chaos, misunderstandings and dramas. The story is set in Delhi and Chennai and, as such, explores the social environment of these places. The Punjabi and South Indian lifestyle and culture could not have been more clearly expressed. It is indeed interesting to read how different two cultures from the same country can be. Bhagat’s writing is simple and informal, which is not a new thing. There are no literary sentences that will strike you as beautifully written or leave you puzzled. Another thing is the story is predictable. From the first chapter, we can easily predict
how the story will progress. As inter-cultural marriages are looked upon the same way in Nepal, this might not feel like a new or unheard story. Some readers might even be able to relate to the characters. No twists or turns are to be found as in other fictional novels. But, despite the predictability and the fact that it is not an absolute page-turner, you will not get bored or regret reading it.
TEXT : Suraksha Nepal
Gyanmandala, Jhamsikhel www.verse.com.np
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Attic North Gate, Lazimpat Bhumi Restro Lounge Lazimpat 4412193 Olive Garden Radisson Hotel, Lazimpat 4441818 Street Café Lazimpat 9841657041 Pizza Express Lazimpat 2161212 Shambala Garden Café Shangri-la Hotel, Lazimpat 4412999 Him Thai Restaurant & Bar Lazimpat 4418683
Babar Mahal Walter’s Restaurant & Bar Babar Mahal Revisited 4253337 Baithak Babar Mahal Revisited 4267346 Shogun Restaurnat & Bar Babar Mahal Revisited 4263720
Durbar Marg
Boudha
Magic Beans Sherpa Mall DurbarMarg, Kathmandu 4230914
The Café Hyatt Regency Taragaon, Boudha 4491234
Gazebo Restro Lounge DurbarMarg 9841397603
Rox Restaurant Hyatt Regency Taragaon, Boudha 4491234
Coffee Shop Durbar Marg 4221711 Ghar-E-Kabab DurbarMarg 4221711 Vintage Café & Pub Woodland Complex, DurbarMarg 4254831 KFC Restaurant/Pizza Hut DurbarMarg 4226287
Kamaladi
Boudha Stupa Restaurant And Café Boudha 2130681 The Bakery Café Boudha 4464438
New Road Shisha Café New Road 4263668 Café Olla Restaurant & Bar Kantipath, Jamal 4232673
Courtyard Restaurant Kamaladi 4253065
Vishram Restaurant Basantapur 2012127
Cube The Club With Candles Restro Lounge Kamaladi 4438017
Revolving Restaurant Ratna Plaza, 4th Floor, NewRoad 4241712 E.D.E.N. Food Court & Lounge Bar Kathmandu Mall 4150062
Thamel Rum Doodle Jytha Street, Thamel 4248692, 424815 Sisha Terrace Bar & Restaurant Thamel 2091137
restaurants
Lazimpat
Jatra Thamel 4256622 The Factory Thamel 4701185, 4701187 Fire and Ice Pizzaria, Thamel 4250210 Aqua Java zing Thamel 4254809
Patan Moksh Gyanmandala, Jhamsikhel 5528362 Café De Patan Mangalbazar 5537599 Patan Museum Café Patan Durbar Square 5524694 Dhokaima Café Patan Dhoka 5522113 Absolute Bar Hotel Narayani Complex, Pulchowk 5521408
Chez Caroline Babar Mahal 4263070
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TOILET TAO:
A review of toilets on the Langtang trail.
T
here’s an old tale from neighbouring India that goes like this: a king summoned his advisor, Beerbal, who was immensely clever but very unorthodox, to court to ask him this question: what is the one thing that can make a man most content? But before Beerbal could answer, several others responded with cries of “money”, “an obedient wife”, “healthy offspring” and “devotion to the gods”. “And what do you think, Beerbal?” his majesty asked. “If you will forgive my honesty sire, a good bowel movement when one truly needs to go.” Maybe only the weak and uninitiated would ponder such trifles as the state of toilets en-route to Langtang Valley but I admit: toilets figured prominently in my mind when I hiked up those foothills the first day. Nevertheless it stands to reason, that the last thing you would want after a hard day’s walk is a crap toilet.
At our first stop in Thulo Syabru, four hours from Dunche, the toilet took Hygiene: 4 me by surprise; it was highly accessible – just a few steps from my room and a Smell: 3 squatter, but spotless. There were also Comfort: 2 several hooks for clothes (as it had a shower). The flush pail wasn’t grimy and Accessibility: 5 the little jug inside was not coated with slime. And the moment I stood up I was Toilet Tao: 3.5 graced with a view of a sloping, pinestudded hillside beyond in which Lirung stood, surrounded by a host of other snow-clad peaks, crimson in the early morning light. It would have been an exceptional sight anywhere, though the feeling was only intensified by my awareness of where I was.
Perhaps the strangest thing found at high altitudes in a country as desperately Hygiene: 5 poor as Nepal is a ‘western style’ toilet. Smell: 4 And it’s even stranger when I struggle to find one thousands of feet below. But Comfort: 5 in Langtang Valley, 3475 metres up at Village View Guest House, the toilet was Accessibility: 5 a wonderful, white, non-squatting affair Toilet Tao: 4.5 with plenty of paper and a bin within easy reach. Sure, the flush tank took a while to fill up, but it did not have the smell that many toilets have which made waiting easier. And it was indoors so you were spared from having to brave the elements every time you needed to go.
But five hours from the Valley, in beautiful Kyenjen Gompa, the toilet at Hygiene: 2 Yala Peak Guest House was dark and Smell: 1 smelled like the privates of a sadhu. And it was a squatter. But no skid marks. And Comfort: 2 no space to hang one’s pants either. It was part of the main building but in an Accessibility: 3 open corridor, so a confrontation with Toilet Tao: 2.5 the elements was necessary, if only for a moment. The flush pail was grubby and the disposal bin overflowed. Contact with any surface required an extra dollop of hand sanitizer, just to be safe. It was a funny coincidence, however, that the highest point on our trek was accompanied by the lowest toilet tao. All in all, however, Langtang toilets are well maintained thus facilitating sound bodily functions. It does not take a lot to imagine Beerbal himself enjoying his early morning dump on the Langtang trail.
TEXT : Nashiu Zahir
My initial misgivings had been dispelled somewhat, and I had certain expectations Hygiene: 4 for our next stop, Lama Hotel. Lama Guest House had two out-houses which Smell: 5 I overlooked, but the toilet upstairs Comfort: 2 was decent. It was closet sized and the toilet and bucket were both blue, which Accessibility: 5 contrasted with the wood of the walls. Toilet Tao: 4 The cracks in the wood allowed a draft and kept the place well ventilated. And the disposal bin was a hand woven basket; definitely the best of its kind as far as this trail is concerned.
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The Imprints of a Soul - Evangeline Soleil (Part 1) A Labour of Love.
I admire the hands of the craftsman, Nimble and quick, Steady and slow. Weaving the lives of Those who do not know. The same feet, Carrying the load. Toiling, struggling for this chapter to close. Sweat, for the child still unborn. The pages are torn. Wandering devotion instilled in faith. You have the answers. Why do you wait?
(Part 2) The Trials of Time
Symmetrical to the heart You have within, Are the grains of sand that make up this land. Watch from your seat as history is formed, Or lies, For all they know. In the future, They speak with their eyes closed. Repeating stories That have already been told. Awaiting, an end to a seed ungrown. You can’t find a place. There is no place to go.
Parts three and four of Imprints of a Soul will be in the next issue. www.verse.com.np
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