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BIKEPACKING ENGLAND 20 MULTI-DAY OFF-ROAD CYCLING ADVENTURES

Emma Kingston

BIKEPACKING ENGLAND 20 MULTI-DAY OFF-ROAD CYCLING ADVENTURES

Emma Kingston

Vertebrate Publishing, Sheffield www.v-publishing.co.uk

20 MULTI-DAY OFF-ROAD CYCLING ADVENTURES

Emma Kingston First published in 2021 by Vertebrate Publishing.

Vertebrate Publishing, Omega Court, 352 Cemetery Road, Sheffield S11 8FT, United Kingdom. www.v-publishing.co.uk Copyright © 2021 Emma Kingston and Vertebrate Publishing Ltd. Emma Kingston has asserted her rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as author of this work.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-1-83981-055-8 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.

Front cover: Descent off Selworthy Beacon into Porlock, Exmoor (route 02).

Back cover (L–R): Urra Moor in August, North York Moors (route 19); Wild camping fun on Dartmoor (route 01); Cut Gate bridleway in the Peak District (route 13); Sandy trails in the Surrey Hills (route 10); Yellow rapeseed fields along the Ridgeway National Trail (route 09); Kimmeridge Bay, Purbeck Hills (route 04).

Previous page: Breakfast high above the Isle of Wight’s southern coast (route 07).

Photography by Emma Kingston and Rob Kingston (www.robkingston.com), unless otherwise credited.

Illustration (page xi) by Emma Kingston.

Mapping contains OS data © Crown copyright and database right (2021) and Openstreetmap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors.

Relief shading produced from data derived from U.S. Geological Survey, National Geospatial Program.

Cartography by Richard Ross, Active Maps Ltd. – www.activemaps.co.uk Design and production by Jane Beagley, Vertebrate Publishing.

Printed and bound in Europe by Latitude Press.

Vertebrate Publishing is committed to printing on paper from sustainable sources.

Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of the information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the route descriptions or advice offered in this guidebook. The inclusion of a track or path as part of a route, or otherwise recommended, in this guidebook does not guarantee that the track or path will remain a right of way. If conflict with landowners arises we advise that you act politely and leave by the shortest route available. If the matter needs to be taken further then please take it up with the relevant authority.

PLEASE GIVE WAY TO HORSES AND PEDESTRIANS.

20 Newcastle

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17 Leeds Manchester

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Birmingham

11 Bristol

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Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii Acknowledgements . . . . . . . vii Bikepacking . . . . . . . . . . . . viii The routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Planning your bikepacking trip . . . . . . . . . . ix Wild camping . . . . . . . . . . . xii How to use this book . . . . . xiii Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv

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Plymouth

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London

10 Portsmouth

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SOUTH WEST ENGLAND

01 Dartmoor National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 02 Exmoor National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 03 Bridport and the Jurassic Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 04 Isle of Purbeck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 05 Mendip Hills and Weston-super-Mare . . . . . . . . . . 35 06 Bristol and Clevedon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

SOUTH EAST ENGLAND

07 Isle of Wight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 08 Winchester and the South Downs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 09 The Ridgeway and Chilterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 10 Surrey Hills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

THE MIDLANDS

11 Cotswolds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 12 Long Mynd and the Stiperstones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 13 Dark Peak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 14 White Peak and the Eastern Moors . . . . . . . . . . . . 105

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NORTHERN ENGLAND

15 Isle of Man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 Windermere, Lake District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17 Yorkshire Three Peaks, Yorkshire Dales . . . . . . . .

18 Swaledale and Wensleydale, Yorkshire Dales . . . .

19 North York Moors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20 Northumberland and the Cheviot Hills . . . . . . . . .

113 121 129 137 145 153

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BIKEPACKING ENGLAND

INTRODUCTION

When a friend asked me a number of years ago if I wanted to try bikepacking, I turned them down. It was not a very auspicious start and I can still remember the feelings of scepticism and doubt behind my decision back then.

I couldn’t see past the two opposing images that I had come to associate with the bike­ packing spectrum: the ultra-endurance athlete racing self-supported across entire continents, and the heavily-laden cycle tourer exploring the world at their leisure. I was envious of both, but neither felt relatable or in reach. And as a mountain biker, I couldn’t move past the idea that bikepacking would be too much of a compromise. What could possibly be gained from lugging around all that kit, other than extra weight and harder hills? What if I didn’t enjoy the trails as much?

I am glad to say that I was wrong. Several months later, with half term looming and no holiday booked, I discovered what many bikepackers have long known: that if you pack minimally, it is possible to make your bike feel relatively light and playful. The singletrack can be just as flowing, the corners just as fun and, best of all, the trails just keep on going. There is something thrilling about coming to that realisation when you go bikepacking for the first time: you don’t have to turn around and head for home just yet; the adventure doesn’t have to end.

When I recall past trips, it is typically the quiet moments of stillness and wonder as much as the giddy excitement of new trails that stay with me the longest. The memorable sunset over a perfectly still English Channel, shared momentarily with a curious badger.

That spur-of-the-moment trip over to the Isle of Man, tucking into fish and chips with the locals on a beach of bleached shells. Waking up

in a bivvy bag above the clouds during a quick overnighter on the Mendip Hills, the main ridge arching above a white ocean. Most of all, I enjoy the simplicity of bikepacking once I start pedalling, of not needing to think beyond my immediate needs and having nothing more pressing than the present.

In writing this book, I wanted to put together a collection of 20 accessible bikepacking routes that reflect the breadth and diversity of England’s off-road riding – enough to inspire you to go and ride them in their entirety or adapt them to make up your own. It has been a privilege to be able to research, ride and refine these routes, to explore the country’s historic bridleways, holloways, pannierways and old roads and to lend another female voice to outdoor adventure writing in the process. The result is a selection of bikepacking trips that all offer up something slightly different, and I believe that there is a route in this book for everyone who enjoys riding their bike off the beaten track. See you on the trails!

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

My thanks first go to the wonderful team at Vertebrate Publishing – especially Jon Barton, John Coefield and Helen Parry – who helped turn my idea into a reality. Stu Price from the Dales Bike Centre, for sharing his local riding knowledge and providing updates on trail conditions. Similarly, Nigel Morris (Manx MTB Club) and Ruth Black (the Isle of Man’s Highway Records Officer), for looking into my queries about the island’s rights of way, and authors Dave Hamilton and Stuart Haines who offered some wise words early on. Also, thanks go to Gareth Sherrington who recced part of the ride in the Chilterns for me.

L–R: Dinner on Dartmoor (route 01); Usway Burn, Cheviot Hills (route 20); Wild camping (route 01); Friendly cow on Baslow Edge (route 14); Compton Down, Isle of Wight (route 07); Sunset at Avebury stone circle (route 09); West Bay cliffs (route 03) © Steven Kingston.

Acknowledgements

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01 DARTMOOR

NATIONAL PARK

INTRODUCTION

Dartmoor: just the name is enough to conjure up images of mist-shrouded tors, bleak moorland and stories filled with pixies, ghosts and highwaymen. Dartmoor National Park is often thought of as the last true wilderness in Southern England – its open expanse of moors is punctuated by huge granite edifices, steep valleys and ancient woodland – yet look closely and you will see signs of human habitation and land use spanning thousands of years. It is a ritual landscape and is heavily steeped in history. Wild camping is permitted across much of Dartmoor, making it a haven for backpackers and bikepackers. It is also the stomping ground for fictional Sherlock Holmes, hot on the trail of a spectral hound. Considering its size, Dartmoor has relatively few rideable bridleways, but they are seriously good. You might just find yourself chasing more than tyre marks though.

ROUTE OVERVIEW

This circular route plots a sweeping course around the national park, linking brilliant uncrowded trails with the best of Dartmoor’s historical sites. Ride past the prehistoric settlement of Grimspound, explore Merrivale’s vast ceremonial complex and paddle in the shallows under Bellever’s clapper bridge. Trail highlights, meanwhile, include the panoramic Hunter’s Path underneath Castle Drogo, the granite-strewn singletrack around Sheeps Tor and the mossy woodland descent down to Daveytown.

The bridleways here can get steep and technical with testing rock gardens like those around Manaton, but there is plenty of relaxed riding to be had too on the Granite Way, along the old Princetown railway and along the banks of the River Teign. This route is best tackled over a long weekend, allowing you to take it at your own pace and properly explore the ancient landscape.

Previous page: Thorncombe Beacon and Bridport from the air, the South Coast (route 03).

Cooking dinner near Princetown.

GRADE Black DISTANCE 136.3km/84.7 miles ASCENT 2,733m/8,967ft OFF-ROAD 75% START/FINISH Okehampton railway station START/FINISH GRID REFERENCE SX 592944 SATNAV EX20 1EJ MAP OS Explorer OL28, Dartmoor; 112, Launceston & Holsworthy (1:25,000) 483 m

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01 DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK

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BIKEPACKING ENGLAND

THE ROUTE

Pore over a map of Dartmoor, and a clear pattern emerges.

A series of rivers radiates out from its high moorland interior, forming watery trails across the national park: the Okement, Bovey, Dart, Avon, Taw and Teign emerge from boggy ground and wind across the moor, gathering speed in clear streams before becoming fierce torrents through gorges damp with mist and dark with moss. Okehampton sits at the confluence of two of these waterways: the West and East Okement rivers.

Here on the national park’s fringes they merge before settling on a meandering course north to Bideford and the sea.

Like a Dartmoor river in reverse, this bikepacking route springs from Okehampton and skirts the western edges of the moor on the Granite Way – part of National Cycle Network’s ‘Devon Coast to Coast’ route – before turning inwards. The route crosses almost 50 metres above the West Okement River on the Meldon Viaduct, which was built in 1874, and then soon after leaves the cycleway to climb on close-cropped grass under Sourton Tors. On the summit, echoed on countless other tors, is a jumble of granite rocks flecked with colour: the large milky crystals of feldspar, the clear gloss of quartz and the dark flakes of biotite. From here, the descent barrels through high bracken before looping round to re-join the Granite Way towards Lydford Gorge.

Once past Gibbet Hill, the trail turns east at last towards Dartmoor’s empty centre. There is no doubt when the moor proper has been reached. As William Atkins wrote in The Moor: Lives Landscape Literature, this certainty is felt ‘like a cold breath on the nape ... The place is at once underfoot and on the horizon’. From the shoulder of Cox Tor, riders are confronted with a vast expanse of moorland. Even in bright sunshine it can be a foreboding place. No trees. No shelter. No signs of habitation except for the radio mast on North Hessary Tor. An indistinct bridleway picks its way through the moorland clitter before the start of a great little descent down to Merri­ vale Quarry and the road. If you have time, a quick detour to Merrivale’s ceremonial complex – only a five-minute climb up the tarmac – is well worth the effort. The moorland is covered

NAVIGATION The majority of the bridleways are straightforward to locate, but some cross large expanses of open moorland and can become indistinct in places, such as those from Higher Godsworthy to Merrivale and from Princetown to Hexworthy. Also, the bridleway marked on the OS map over Hound Tor does not correspond with the trail on the ground.

WHEN TO RIDE Most trails on this route are stonebased and the route avoids the boggy bridleways over the tops of the more remote tors. However, a number of climbs and descents are on close-cropped grass, which acts as a sponge after heavy rain.

WARNINGS The Ministry of Defence has live-firing areas on Dartmoor – while the route does not go inside any of these areas, it does pass close by at Merrivale.

Make sure to use the alternative permissive path (clearly signed) at Higher Godsworthy Farm. Also, there is a cycleway next to the short stretch on the B3260 outside Okehampton.

L–R: Singletrack round Sheeps Tor; Tent illuminations; Hike-a-bike on Sherberton stepping stones; The Princetown disused railway; Dappled descent to Daveytown; Dinner time!

South West England  01 Dartmoor National Park

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WATER There are plenty of accessible rivers to fill up from en route, and a good number of pubs too.

FOOD AND DRINK • Mary Tavy Post Office and General Stores, Mary Tavy. T: 01822 810 422 • Fox Tor Cafe, Princetown.

T: 01822 890 238 • Postbridge Stores, Postbridge.

T: 01822 880 201 • East Dart Hotel, Postbridge.

T: 01822 880 213 • Fingle Bridge Inn, Drewsteignton.

T: 01647 281 287 • Homemade cakes are often on sale in the School House by the car park at Manaton (bring change).

L–R: Sherberton stepping stones; Nun’s Cross.

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in prehistoric remains that you can walk right up to, including Bronze Age stone circles, stone rows, burial cairns, hut circles and enormous standing stones.

From open moorland, the route then heads into dense woodland. The path to Daveytown is a secret gem of a descent, which tunnels down through stunted oaks. Concrete doubletrack changes into a carpet of mossy grass with just a sliver of earth showing through. Towards the bottom a series of polished slabs lead to a gate, and on the right a stone wall runs alongside, almost lost under moss and ferns. Once the route climbs back out of the Walkham Valley, it joins the disused railway that forms part of Dartmoor National Park’s ‘Granite and Gears’ off-road rides. The main route takes the line south to Burrator Reservoir but there is an option to follow the railway line back north. This option can be used either as a shortcut over to Princetown or as a way to explore the flooded ruins of Foggintor Quarry. For over 100 years, the quarry, along with the extensive quarry works at Merrivale and Haytor, provided the stone for a number of famous landmarks such as London Bridge and Nelson’s Column.

After Burrator Reservoir, the route turns towards Dartmoor’s interior once more on an exposed moorland section. It follows the path of the old monastic Maltern Way over the wonderfully named Gutter Tor, Ditsworthy Warren and Drizzle Common before passing Nun’s Cross, one of the largest and oldest of Dartmoor’s granite wayside markers.

Princetown is a good place to regroup before heading out once more. Near Sherberton Farm, the stepping stones across the West Dart River present yet another novel obstacle. Twenty smooth boulders sit squat in the water, forming an arc against

BIKEPACKING ENGLAND

the current. It makes a unique and entertaining hike-a-bike, but the crossing is bookended by sections of unrideable trail and there is a shorter set of stepping stones to cross earlier too.

Consider taking the road instead if the water levels are high.

Further east, past Bellever Forest and Postbridge’s welcoming pub, is the prehistoric settlement of Grimspound. The huge boundary wall – about 150 metres in diameter – spans the gap between Hookney Tor and Hameldown Tor and inside are the remains of 24 stone roundhouses. It is a smooth, flatout descent to Jay’s Grave and Hound Tor, which marks the beginning of a different sort of riding.

From here, the open moorland with its empty horizons is left behind and the focus inevitably narrows – everything is nearer. Sharper. More detailed. Down by Becka Brook, the moss-laden rocks cover the trail like balls of green fur.

Hazelnut husks crack and pop under tyre on the quiet lanes towards Manaton. The red gingham of an umbrella peeks over the School House wall, slabs of homemade cake yours for a pound. Distances feel compressed: Foxworthy, North Bovey, Moretonhampstead, Mardon Down. Each pass by in quick succession before an exhilarating series of paths drops down to the River Teign. Ten kilometres of relaxed riding slip by in quiet, dappled woodland, following the banks of the river all the way to Fingle Bridge. High above, a narrow flowing trail contours above the tree line on the Hunter’s Path – look out for buzzards and kestrels hovering nearby. It’s a short, sharp push to reach the path but it then stays high, traversing Piddledown Common and then passing under the walls of Castle Drogo, the last castle to be built in England, before returning to Okehampton.

ACCOMMODATION • Sweet Meadows & Wild Woods Camping, Clifford Bridge.

T: 01647 24331 • Great Hound Tor Farm Camping Barn, Manaton. T: 01647 221 202 • YHA Okehampton. T: 03452 602 791 • Wild camping information www.dartmoor.gov.uk/enjoy-dartmoor/ outdoor-activities/camping Make sure you are well away from any roads or settlements, stay no longer than two consecutive nights and avoid disturbing wildlife, particularly during lambing and bird breeding season between March and July.

OTHER ROUTES NEARBY The 160-kilometre Devon Coast to Coast is a linear route linking Ilfracombe and Plymouth. It is mostly on traffic-free trails and joins up the Tarka Trail, the Granite Way and Drake’s Trail.

Sunset at King’s Tor.

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