20 circular routes in the Central Pennines
Written by
Bernard Newman
20 circular routes in the Central Pennines
Written by
Bernard Newman
20 circular routes in the Central Pennines Copyright
© 2010 Vertebrate Graphics Ltd and Bernard Newman
Published by Vertebrate Publishing All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher. ISBN 978-1-906148-22-5 Cover photo: Malham Cove. Back cover photo: Gunnerside Gill. All photography by Bernard Newman. All maps reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of The Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. © Crown Copyright. 100025218 Design and production by Nathan Ryder. www.v-graphics.co.uk
Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the route descriptions or advice offered in this guidebook. The inclusion of a track or path as part of a route, or otherwise recommended, in this guidebook does not guarantee that the track or path will remain a Right of Way. If conflict with landowners arises we advise that you act politely and leave by the shortest route available. If the matter needs to be taken further then please take it up with the relevant authority.
Contents
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii About the walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii Footpaths and rights of way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix The Countryside Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x How to use this book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii Km/mile conversion chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiv Yorkshire Dales Area Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvi
SECTION 1 – SOUTH 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Malham Cove & Gordale Scar – 11.2km/7miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Pen-y-ghent & Plover Hill – 17km/10.6miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Norber Erratics & Crummack Dale from Clapham – 12.5km/8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Ingleborough via Gaping Gill – 13km/8.1miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Ingleborough from Ribblehead – 12.9km/8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Whernside – 11.6km/7.25 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Great Coum – 11km/6.9miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
SECTION 2 – EAST 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Buckden Pike – 10.6km/6.6 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Great Whernside – 12.5km/7.8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rylstone Skyline from Rylstone Village – 10km/6miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Simon’s Seat & The Strid – 12.6km/7.5miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ilkley Moor – 15km/9.4 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Upper Nidderdale & Scar House Reservoir – 16km/10miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brimham Rocks from Pateley Bridge – 15km/9.5miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
47 51 57 61 67 73 79
SECTION 3 – NORTH 15 16 17 18 19 20
Height of Hazely from West Burton – 11.2km/7miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Raydale & Semer Water – 12.5km/7.8 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Hardraw Force & Abbotside Common – 10.5 km/6.5 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Gunnerside Gill Lead Mines via Black Hill – 12km/7.5miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Wild Boar Fell – 14km/9.4 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Howgills – Cautley Spout & The Calf – 10.2km/6.3 miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
APPENDIX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
CONTENTS
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Pen-y-ghent from above Dale Head
Introduction The landscape of the Yorkshire Dales is iconic. The unique play of light and shade on outcrop, field and skyline has made the Dales the darling of landscape photographers and film producers, poets and writers alike over many years, so it’s hardly surprising that many thousands of hill walkers and tourists visit the National Park every year to soak up the beauty. Geology and settlement have conspired to produce this beguiling mix of hard mountain and deep dale. The whole Park is underlain by rocks of early to mid Carboniferous age, all preserved in flat layers and always in the same sequence: thick white limestones below; overlain by a mix of sandstones, limestones and shales, then a more resistant capping of bold, massive Millstone Grit. This sequence not only dictates the shape of the hills, but allows the walker to predict the going underfoot: hard dry valleys of green grass, limestone pavements and grey shattered crags, then often a scooped boggy section and finally a scramble through gritstone outcrops to an airy table-top of heather and peat. Cut into this a series of straight, deep glaciated valleys, add a fine detail of classic dry stone walls and barns, compact villages and farmsteads, and you have the Dales. Apart from the hill walking, the Yorkshire Dales enjoys world class status for rock climbing and caving: the limestone cathedrals of Malham, Gordale and Kilnsey are home to some of the hardest rock climbs in the world, whilst the hundreds of miles of subterranean passages hidden in the limestone provide the most extreme challenges for cavers and cave-divers. Topography has provided a convenient natural division of the walks: a southern area containing the famous Three Peaks of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent; an eastern section of gritstone moors above Wharfedale and Nidderdale, and finally the east-west trending Wensleydale and Swaledale in the north. The Dales is a year-round venue, and justifiably popular, but once away from the honey-pots you can be suddenly alone, and as farm and village drop out of sight, there is a feeling of remoteness and wilderness out of all proportion to the scale of the place.
Bernard Newman
INTRODUCTION
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Malham Cove & Gordale Scar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Pen-y-ghent & Plover Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Norber Erratics & Crummack Dale from Clapham . . . . . . . . . .17 Ingleborough via Gaping Gill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Ingleborough from Ribblehead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Whernside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Great Coum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
Buckden Pike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Great Whernside . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Rylstone Skyline from Rylstone Village . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Simon’s Seat & The Strid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Ilkley Moor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Upper Nidderdale & Scar House Reservoir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Brimham Rocks from Pateley Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
15 16 17 18 19 20
Height of Hazely from West Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Raydale & Semer Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Hardraw Force & Abbotside Common . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Gunnerside Gill Lead Mines via Black Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Wild Boar Fell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Howgills – Cautley Spout & The Calf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
DAY WALKS IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES
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12 CONTAINS ORDNANCE SURVEY DATA © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND DATABASE RIGHT
Area Map & Route Finder aREa MaP & ROUTE fINDER
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SECTION South
The Three Peaks area is perhaps the most popular with walkers and definitely has the most spectacular scenery. The three sisters, Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent reward even the most experienced walker with gratifying days out, demanding repeated visits, each unique as the seasons and the weather change. Access from the M6 in the west is easy, and the local towns and villages are fully geared up for the visiting walker.
Pen-y-ghent from above Dale Head
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INGLEBOROUGH FROM BELOW SIMON FELL
day walks in the YORKSHIRE DALES – SOUTH
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Malham Cove & Gordale Scar Distance: 11.2km/7miles » Total Ascent: 260m/852ft » Start gr: SD 900627 » Time: Allow 4.5 hours Map: OS Explorer Map OL2 Yorkshire Dales Southern & Western areas, 1:25000 » Refreshments: pubs and cafes in Malham village, tea shack at Gordale Bridge » Navigation: Straightforward, but only faint paths over the summit of Great Close Hill.
Clints and grikes above Malham Cove
01 Malham Cove & Gordale Scar
11.2km/7miles
A spectacular walk, taking in two of Yorkshire’s most famous natural features. Malham » Malham Cove » Malham Tarn » Great Close Hill » Gordale Scar » Gordale Bridge » Janet’s Foss » Malham
Start
Car park at Malham National Park Centre (£3.20 per day) GR: SD 900627.
The Walk
The village of Malham is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Dales and rightly so, sitting at the head of a sunny south-facing valley and with easy access to one of Britain’s most spectacular natural features – Malham Cove. This concave, cathedral cliff rises 295ft in a continual sweeping overhang of limestone above the nascent River Aire which emerges, surprisingly, at its foot. The Cove is very popular with modern rock climbers, in fact some of the most technically difficult climbs in the world are to be found on these streaked walls. How such a bold feature could be formed is the stuff of countless geography fieldtrips, but most likely it’s the site of an ancient waterfall, the river forced over the lip during the last ice age when the subterranean passageways were blocked with permafrost. The walk in from the village is glorious on a hot summer’s day, or in the blue shade of midwinter, along a well-maintained section of the Pennine Way. The path crosses classic clint and grike country at the top of the
Cove, and here we leave the crowds behind and head north along a lonely valley to the unlikely Malham Tarn, one of Yorkshire’s only two natural lakes. The summit of Great Close Hill provides an ideal lunch spot, high above the Tarn, with it’s colony of grebes, and endless views south to Pendle, and west across the Craven Lowlands. Heading back southwards to the head of Gordale Scar is pleasant enough, and gives no hint of the drama to come – and the descent of the gorge is dramatic. The way down involves hands and feet and probably a soaking if the wind is whistling through, but the holds in the ancient flowstone are good, as are the views of the waterfall as it emerges through a natural arch. Down on the floor of the gorge savour the neck-aching views of the overhanging cliffs that arch over you. This is a wild and raw place, full of sound: roaring water and laughing jackdaws. The walk out is flat and suddenly quiet, and the daring exploits of the gorge are rewarded by a mobile tea shack at Gordale Bridge. If it’s not there, push on down the dingly dell of Janet’s Foss for a spot of birding (check out the dippers) and you’ll soon wash up in Malham.
01 Malham Cove & Gordale Scar – SOUTH
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DAY WALKS IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES
01 Malham Cove & Gordale Scar © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND/OR DATABASE RIGHT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. LICENCE NUMBER 100025218.
01 Malham Cove & Gordale Scar – SOUTH
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Directions – Malham Cove & Gordale Scar From the National Park car park, head north through Malham village, and up the lane to the obvious large, gated stiles on the right at Tarn Head Barn, signed to Malham Cove and Pennine Way. 2 Follow the well-made path above the west bank of Malham Beck into the Cove. A stone
staircase leads steeply up to the left wing of the cliff and onto the limestone pavement at the top. Turn right across the clints and grikes, often polished and slippery, to the dry valley at the top of the Cove. Do not approach the edge of the cliff! 3 Follow the deep-cut limestone valley northwest for 800m to a fork. Double back right
at the stile to enter a narrow limestone valley. After 200m pass a small cave on your right. Come out into an open field, with a wall to the right, take the path by the wall staying on the Pennine Way, to a road just south of Malham Tarn. 4 Cross the road and leave the car park via the left-hand track, passing between 2 small
wooden posts, to reach the Tarn at the outflow. Bear right across a field past a wood on your left to pick up the track to the Field Centre, which runs beneath the climbing crag of Great Close Scar. Follow the track overlooking the Tarn to the edge of a wood just short of the Field Centre. 5 Turn right off the track, and, at a gate entering the wood, turn right, signposted to
Middle House 2 miles, and follow a path steeply up to a broad col at 300m. Follow a new fence to a corner post then turn right (SE) up the ridge, faint paths to the summit cairn of Great Close Hill. 6 Drop down steeply southeast to pick up the track from Middle House Farm at a small
wood. Follow the track south for 600m to a meeting of the ways and a parking area at Street Gate. Continue straight ahead following the wall to join the road to Malham for 20m, a distinctive lone tree ahead. 7 Turn left over the wall at a stile, signed Gordale Scar, and follow a clear track, with
limestone paving to the left and a large cairn to the right. After 1km meet a wall on left on lip of the upper Gordale gorge. Follow wall, drop down hill to cross wall, you can now hear the stream.
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DAY WALKS IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES
8 Path now drops steeply into the Gorge, and after 500m brings you to a fork in the path.
Left takes you to the head of the waterfall and a tricky scramble down into the gorge proper. Care is needed on the scramble as it is very polished – it should be avoided if very frosty or iced up, or if the beck is in spate. From the foot of the falls, follow the obvious path out of the gorge for 600m to the road at Gordale Bridge. To avoid the scramble, take a faint path up and to the right from the point where the main path drops into the gorge. This path follows a low, old stone wall around the western rim of the gorge. Keep left, do not take path right over moor. At a dip with wall on left, take a path on right – SSW, bearing 208 degrees – and follow a very steep path down to a gate in the wall. Go through the gate and stay high over the top of the field to join the main path coming in from the right. Turn back left down to the road at Gordale Bridge. Now head left along the lane for 100m to a gate on the left that leads to the path into the gorge. Follow this along the east bank of Gordale Beck to the foot of the falls. Return to Gordale Bridge.
9 From the tea shack, head southwest along the road to Malham for 200m to a signposted
footpath on the left for Malham/Janet’s Foss. Follow path to waterfall, down a green dell, with deep pools. Walk out along stream side footpath for 1.3km. Turn right at Mires Barn, for a flat easy walk back along the beck to Malham village.
GORDALE SCAR
01 Malham Cove & Gordale Scar – SOUTH
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