Day Walks in the Cairngorms - Sample Pages

574j VP 12/19 188H VG 01/13

Enjoy riverside walks along the Spey and Dee, discover hidden lochans at Clais Fhearnaig, explore the ancient forests of Rothiemurchus or tackle the famous Munros of Braeriach, Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm.

DAY WALKS IN THE CAIRNGORMS

Day Walks in the Cairngorms features 20 circular routes between 6.3 and 18.4 miles (10.2km and 29.6km) in length, spread across the Cairngorms National Park. Researched and written by local and experienced authors Helen and Paul Webster, founders of the Walkhighlands website, the walks range from gentle rambles to more challenging day walks, all through stunning and varied terrain.

20 circular routes in the Scottish Highlands

Together with stunning photography, each route features: » Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 maps » easy-to-follow directions » details of distance and navigation information » refreshment stops and local information

PRICE: £14.95

Helen & Paul Webster

20 circular routes in the Scottish Highlands

Helen & Paul Webster

20 circular routes in the Scottish Highlands First published in 2020 by Vertebrate Publishing.

Vertebrate Publishing, Omega Court, 352 Cemetery Road, Sheffield S11 8FT, United Kingdom. www.v-publishing.co.uk Copyright © 2020 Helen and Paul Webster and Vertebrate Publishing Ltd. Helen and Paul Webster have asserted their rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as authors of this work.

A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978-1-912560-63-9 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher.

Front cover: Loch an Eilein (route 6).

Back cover: Glen Quoich (route 17).

Photography by Paul and Helen Webster unless otherwise credited.

All maps reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of The Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. © Crown Copyright. 100025218 Design by Nathan Ryder, production by Cameron Bonser. www.v-publishing.co.uk Printed and bound in Europe by Pulsio.

Vertebrate Publishing is committed to printing on paper from sustainable sources.

Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of the information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the route descriptions or advice offered in this guidebook. The inclusion of a track or path as part of a route, or otherwise recommended, in this guidebook does not guarantee that the track or path will remain a right of way. If conflict with landowners arises we advise that you act politely and leave by the shortest route available. If the matter needs to be taken further then please take it up with the relevant authority.

Contents Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii About the walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii Navigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii GPS & mobile phones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix Bothies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x Scottish outdoor access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi

Estate activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xii How to use this book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii Maps, descriptions, distances . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii Km/mile conversion chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiv Cairngorms place names . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv Cairngorms Area Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvi

SECTION 1 – BADENOCH & THE WESTERN CAIRNGORMS 1 2 3 4 5

Creag Bheag & the Wildcat Trail* – 18.8km/11.7miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Càrn Dearg Mòr from Glen Feshie – 23.2km/14.4miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Feshiebridge & the Uath Lochans – 12.2km/7.6miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Geal-Charn & A’ Mharconaich – 11.5km/7.1miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Sgòr Gaoith Circuit – 18km/11.2miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

SECTION 2 – AVIEMORE & THE NORTHERN CAIRNGORMS 6 Rothiemurchus Forest & Loch an Eilein* – 14.8km/9.2miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7 Geal-charn Mòr – 12.6km/7.8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 Meall a’ Bhuachaille & An Lochan Uaine* – 15.9km/9.9miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9 Ben Macdui via the Northern Corries – 16.2km/10.1miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10 Chalamain Gap Circuit – 18.1km/11.2miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11 Cairn Gorm & the Sròn a’ Cha-no Ridge – 12.2km/7.6miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 Braeriach from Whitewell – 26.5km/16.5miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39 45 51 57 63 69 73

SECTION 3 – GRANTOWN-ON-SPEY & TOMINTOUL 13 Anagach Woods & the River Spey – 11.5km/7.1miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 14 Carn Daimh from Tomnavoulin – 10.2km/6.3miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 15 Inchrory & Strath Avon – 29.6km/18.4miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 SECTION 4 – BRAEMAR & DEESIDE 16 The Muir of Dinnet & the Vat Burn – 15.7km/9.8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 17 Clais Fhearnaig Circuit – 16.3km/10.1miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 18 Lochnagar & Loch Muick – 19km/11.8miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 19 Morrone from Braemar – 12km/7.5miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 20 Derry Cairngorm from the Linn of Dee – 26.8km/16.7miles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 APPENDIX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 * Shortcut available CONTENTS

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Introduction The Cairngorms is the largest national park in Great Britain, offering a huge variety of landscapes and habitats with endless opportunities for exploring on foot. They include five of the six highest Munros, rising above a vast granite plateau, scoured by winds and encircled by a spectacular array of craggy, glacier-scooped corries. Up here only a handful of specialised animals and birds can survive – including snow bunting, mountain hare and ptarmigan. For hillwalkers the plateau offers a true sense of remote wildness, with challenging navigation and often ferocious weather conditions.

Around this mountain core the landscapes are more accessible yet no less stunning. The Cairngorms include the extensive remains of the vast and ancient Caledonian pinewoods that once swathed much of the Highlands. This is the largest area of native forest surviving in the UK, home to the crested tit, the red squirrel, the crossbill and the endangered capercaillie. After years of decline due to overgrazing, the forests are expanding once more.

The waterscapes too are remarkable. The sparkling, fast-flowing rivers of the Spey and the Dee are legendary for their salmon fishing, and there is an array of beautiful forest lochs and lochans. Here too are the Insh marshes, one of the UK’s most important wetlands. Keep an eye out for golden eagles, osprey, hen harriers and buzzards as well as waders such as curlew, lapwings and oystercatchers who thrive on the rich insect life of the area.

The Cairngorms is very much a living landscape; there is a long and rich heritage and many people are drawn to live and work here by the natural environment. The elemental and restorative power of this landscape is celebrated in Nan Shepherd’s evocative book The Living Mountain and her face now graces the back of a Scottish £5 note. Today people visit the National Park to walk, climb, mountain bike and ski or to wildlife watch. Ecotourism is often claimed to have started with the return of the ospreys to Loch Garten, and today tourism – including walking and nature watching – is the main driver of the local economy, providing almost half of employment, supported by farming, forestry and the service sector. Whilst large-scale sporting estates still dominate much of the uplands and are managed for grouse and red deer shooting, an increasing amount of the Cairngorms are now managed for conservation. A huge long-term rewilding project, Cairngorms Connect, spans much of the northern flank of the mountains and aims to increase biodiversity and natural forest cover, at the same time as boosting responsible tourism and providing sustainable jobs for the future.

The possibilities in the Cairngorms for an enthusiastic walker are inexhaustible. This book presents an introduction, with 20 stunning circular walks including everything from low-level explorations of the forests and lochs to moorland walks and ascents on to the high plateau to visit the great summits. Enjoy!

Helen & Paul Webster INTRODUCTION

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1 2 3 4 5

Creag Bheag & the Wildcat Trail �������������������������������� 5 Càrn Dearg Mòr from Glen Feshie ���������������������� 11 Feshiebridge & the Uath Lochans ������������������������ 17 Geal-Charn & A’ Mharconaich ���������������������������������� 23 Sgòr Gaoith Circuit �������������������������������������������������������������������� 29

6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Rothiemurchus Forest & Loch an Eilein ������ 39 Geal-charn Mòr ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 45 Meall a’ Bhuachaille & An Lochan Uaine ������ 51 Ben Macdui via the Northern Corries ����������� 57 Chalamain Gap Circuit ���������������������������������������������������������� 63 Cairn Gorm & the Sròn a’ Cha-no Ridge ������ 69 Braeriach from Whitewell ������������������������������������������������ 73

13 14 15

Anagach Woods & the River Spey ������������������������ 85 Carn Daimh from Tomnavoulin �������������������������������� 91 Inchrory & Strath Avon ������������������������������������������������������ 95

16 17 18 19 20

The Muir of Dinnet & the Vat Burn ���������������� 105 Clais Fhearnaig Circuit ������������������������������������������������������ 111 Lochnagar & Loch Muick ���������������������������������������������� 117 Morrone from Braemar ���������������������������������������������������� 123 Derry Cairngorm from the Linn of Dee ���� 127

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CONTAINS ORDNANCE SURVEY DATA © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND DATABASE RIGHT.

Area Map & Route Finder AREA MAP & ROUTE FINDER

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SECTION

Badenoch & the Western Cairngorms

The A9 leads down from the bare Drumochter Pass into Badenoch – the uppermost part of the River Spey catchment. The hills either side of the pass, and the Monadhliath to the north, are mostly rounded but offer superb views towards the main Cairngorm peaks and vast skies.

The strath itself is full of interest; the huge ruins of Ruthven Barracks guarding the entrance to the bird haven of the Insh Marshes and the nearby lively villages of Kingussie and Newtonmore. To the east is Glen Feshie, to many the finest of all Cairngorm glens – a nature lover’s dream, and the heart of a vast rewilding project.

PINEWOODS ABOVE THE ALLT RUADH

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VIEW OVER BADENOCH FROM CREAGAN AN FHITHICH

DAY WALKS IN THE CAIRNGORMS – SECTION 1

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LOOKING OVER NEWTONMORE FROM CREAG BHEAG

01 Creag Bheag & the Wildcat Trail

18.8km/11.7miles

This satisfying loop explores the wee rocky hill of Creag Bheag above Kingussie taking in a loch, open moorland and a beautiful stretch of riverside.

Kingussie » Creag Bheag » Loch Gynack » Allt Laraidh » Calder Path » River Spey » Highland Folk Museum » Kingussie

Start

Ardvonie car park, Kingussie.

GR: NH 755007.

The Walk

This exploration of the rivers and moorland sandwiched between the high mountains of the Cairngorms and Monadhliath combines a surprising variety of landscapes around the two villages of Newtonmore and Kingussie. There is also a chance to visit the superb Highland Folk Museum.

The route starts from Kingussie, which has a mix of shops, cafes and galleries. It crosses a park and climbs past some impressive Victorian villas before taking a path up through pinewoods and out on to the moors. The heather-clad ridge of Creag Bheag has great character, and the summit itself is marked with a large cairn and stone seat providing fine views over much of Badenoch and towards the Cairngorms. The hill is a much-loved part of the Highland community, its crags popular with climbers, and its summit the objective of a hill race held every September.

A steep and rough descent path leads down to the trees above Loch Gynack. The route then turns west, following a track through open moorland with expansive views to the Monadhliath mountains. This is a good place to spot birds of prey including buzzards, golden eagles and the rare hen harrier.

The walk then joins the Wildcat Trail, a circular route enclosing the neighbouring settlement of Newtonmore. Keeping high above the village, a series of paths lead through mixed woodland to reach a stunning stretch of path overlooking the River Calder. At this point it is possible to detour into Newtonmore where there are shops, cafes and pubs. The walk itself follows the Calder downstream to reach the mighty River Spey, eventually skirting the golf course to head through the edge of the Highland Folk Museum, based in a series of relocated historic buildings.

Entrance is free and it is well worth allowing time to explore. Finally, a shared cycleway leads back to Kingussie and the start of the walk.

CREAG BHEAG & THE WILDCAT TRAIL DISTANCE: 18.8KM/11.7 MILES » TOTAL ASCENT: 364M/1,194FT » START GR: NH 755007 » TIME: ALLOW 6.5 HOURS » SATNAV: PH21 1EZ » MAP: OS EXPLORER 56, BADENOCH & UPPER STRATHSPEY, 1:25,000 » REFRESHMENTS: SUGAR BOWL CAFE, KINGUSSIE, OR THE GLEN HOTEL, NEWTONMORE » NAVIGATION: STRAIGHTFORWARD ON MOSTLY CLEAR PATHS.

01 CREAG BHEAG & THE WILDCAT TRAIL – BADENOCH & THE WESTERN CAIRNGORMS

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DAY WALKS IN THE CAIRNGORMS

01 CREAG BHEAG & THE WILDCAT TRAIL © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND/OR DATABASE RIGHT. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. LICENCE NUMBER 100025218.

01 CREAG BHEAG & THE WILDCAT TRAIL – BADENOCH & THE WESTERN CAIRNGORMS

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Directions – Creag Bheag & the Wildcat Trail From the Ardvonie car park behind the Duke of Gordon Hotel, pass to the right of the toilets and cross the grass following the sign for Creag Bheag Summit. Turn right at the road and soon bear left on to a track. Go straight ahead through two gates and climb through pinewoods, ignoring paths on the left keeping on the waymarked path.

Go through a gate to leave the woods and soon turn right to follow the moorland path eventually reaching the summit of Creag Bheag. After the final cairn and seat keep ahead as the path starts to descend, with a couple of rocky and steep sections.

2 Lower down arrive at a signposted junction; turn left to follow a path above Loch Gynack signed Newtonmore. When the wide path reaches a track, turn left along it with the distant mountains of the Monadhliath visible ahead. At the next track junction keep left again and continue across the moor until a farm gate comes into view. Ignore a track off left, keeping ahead to pass through the gate. Follow the track towards a forestry plantation. Here, at a turning circle with a gate on the edge of the trees, continue ahead on to a path alongside the trees, crossing a footbridge. At the far corner of the plantation go through a gate and immediately turn left on to a path through the heather. The path eventually runs alongside a stream. Keep straight ahead when it joins a track and later cross a footbridge near a ford.

Continue along the track until after a sheepfold, then turn right to cross another footbridge and aim uphill towards a gate at the corner of a wood.

3 Go through the gate into the wood and keep straight on following the path along the edge of the trees. Cross a number of gates and stiles before a row of marker stones indicate where to bear half-left to a gate. Go through it and keep straight on* at a marker post, soon reaching another gate and joining an often-muddy track ahead through the trees. Keep left at a fork and go through a farm gate. Stay on the track as it curves left and then go straight ahead through another farm gate, soon passing a white cottage. Keep straight ahead at the cottage to reach a road. Turn right following the Wildcat Trail signs and head uphill on the road.

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*SC: Turn left at the marker post to shortcut directly to Newtonmore where you can turn left along Main Street to pass the Highland Folk Museum and rejoin the route back to Kingussie.

DAY WALKS IN THE CAIRNGORMS

4 A short way after a cattle grid turn right at a wildcat marker to reach woodland.

Climb the stile and follow the path through birches and pine forestry. At a gate and track turn left along a wide break in the trees and go through a kissing gate to return to the road. Turn right along it. As views up Glen Banchor open up ahead fork left on to the Calder Path. The grassy path undulates and passes through a gate before a dramatic section high above the River Calder. Don’t pass through the next gate but turn right downhill to soon run alongside the cemetery before climbing up to another gate and a small wood to reach a stile and bench at the A86.

5 Go straight across the road on to the track opposite. Go through the gate on the right to reach the riverside path. Follow the Calder until it meets the River Spey and pass under the road bridge after a stile. The path keeps to the riverbank passing under the railway; go through a number of gates and stiles keeping on the path near the river. Eventually the route passes the golf course and the path bears left away from the river. Cross a footbridge and then another and bear left to climb uphill to go over the railway.

If the Calder is in flood and the riverbank path is impassable, where the Calder meets the Spey take the high stile on the left and then bear right to cross fields before another stile on the right brings you back to the riverbank beyond the flood-prone section.

6 At a junction continue straight ahead to reach Main Street. Turn right, soon passing the main entrance to the Highland Folk Museum. This is well worth a visit and it can easily take two hours to explore all the reconstructed buildings which include a thatched black-house village. Otherwise, continue for a short distance and then bear right on to the shared cycle path. Follow this all the way into Kingussie. Turn left to cross the road after the Duke of Gordon Hotel and turn left again to return to the car park at the start.

01 CREAG BHEAG & THE WILDCAT TRAIL – BADENOCH & THE WESTERN CAIRNGORMS

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