Winter Walks in the Lake District - Sample Pages by Vertebrate Publishing

Local author Stephen Goodwin has selected his favourite cold-weather outings, which all share the magic and exhilaration that snow or even a hoar frost brings to the Lakeland fells. The routes include accessible jaunts up Gowbarrow, High Rigg and Latrigg, Keswick’s ‘house mountain’ – an ideal spot to survey the snow cover on the bigger tops to the south; ascents of Helvellyn from the east and west, via classic and lesser-known ridgelines, or graded climbs on Browncove Crags and Nethermost Pike; high-level horseshoes above Haweswater and Langdale; and, of course, ascents of the classics – Scafell Pike, Blencathra, Great End – although not necessarily by the most travelled routes.

£14.95

152j VP Winter Walks in the Lake District_cover.indd 1

FELL WALKS & EASY SNOW CLIMBS FOR THE WINTER MOUNTAINEER

STEPHEN GOODWIN

Alongside advice on winter conditions and kit, each of the routes in this book features detailed introductions and directions, Ordnance Survey 1:25,000-scale maps, photo topos for the graded winter climbs where appropriate, and local information such as the best pubs and cafes.

12/17 152J

WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

Winter Walks in the Lake District is a collection of enjoyable walks and easy winter climbs designed to make the most of the winter conditions that regularly descend on the Lake District.

WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

STEPHEN GOODWIN 12/12/2017 16:40

WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT FELL WALKS & EASY SNOW CLIMBS FOR THE WINTER MOUNTAINEER

STEPHEN GOODWIN

WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT FELL WALKS & EASY SNOW CLIMBS FOR THE WINTER MOUNTAINEER

First published in 2018 by Vertebrate Publishing. Vertebrate Publishing, Crescent House, 228 Psalter Lane, Sheffield S11 8UT, United Kingdom. www.v-publishing.co.uk Copyright © 2018 Stephen Goodwin and Vertebrate Publishing Ltd. Stephen Goodwin has asserted his rights under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as author of this work. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-911342-28-1 All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, or mechanised, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems – without the written permission of the publisher. Front cover: Ascending Sharp Edge, Blencathra (route 3b). Back cover: Brothers Water (route 9). All photography by Stephen Goodwin. All maps reproduced by permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of The Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. © Crown Copyright. 100025218. Design and production by Jane Beagley – www.v-publishing.co.uk Printed and bound in Europe by Pulsio. Vertebrate Publishing is committed to printing on paper from sustainable sources.

Every effort has been made to achieve accuracy of the information in this guidebook. The authors, publishers and copyright owners can take no responsibility for: loss or injury (including fatal) to persons; loss or damage to property or equipment; trespass, irresponsible behaviour or any other mishap that may be suffered as a result of following the route descriptions or advice offered in this guidebook. The inclusion of a track or path as part of a route, or otherwise recommended, in this guidebook does not guarantee that the track or path will remain a right of way. If conflict with landowners arises we advise that you act politely and leave by the shortest route available. If the matter needs to be taken further then please take it up with the relevant authority.

Contents Introduction �� VII Acknowledgements �� VIII About the routes �� VIII Craft & safety �� IX Kit �� IX Footwear & crampons �� X Mobile phones �� X Mountain rescue �� X Mountain rescue by SMS text �� X Access & conservation �� XI The Countryside Code �� XII Maps, descriptions, distances �� XV Area map & route finder �� XVI 1 Grisedale Pike & Coledale ........................................................................................................................................... 5 1a Grisedale Pike – 11km ..................................................................................................................................... 8 1b Coledale Horseshoe – 13km ...................................................................................................................... 10 1c A Coledale Shortie – 5km ............................................................................................................................ 12 2 Latrigg – 6km .................................................................................................................................................................. 15 3 Blencathra ........................................................................................................................................................................ 19 3a Hall’s Fell Ridge (grade I) – 7km ............................................................................................................. 21 3b Sharp Edge (grade II) – 7km ..................................................................................................................... 24 4 High Rigg & St John’s in the Vale ........................................................................................................................ 29 4a East Route – 7km ............................................................................................................................................ 30 4b West Route – 7km ........................................................................................................................................... 34 5 Browncove Crags & Helvellyn (grades I–II) – 7km ...................................................................................... 39 6 Gowbarrow – 6.5km ................................................................................................................................................... 45 7 Catstye Cam, Helvellyn & Striding Edge – 12km ......................................................................................... 49 8 Grisedale Trilogy (Patterdale) .................................................................................................................................. 57 8a Nethermost Gully (grade II) – 12km ...................................................................................................... 61 8b Nethermost Pike via East Ridge – 13km ............................................................................................. 64 8c Dollywaggon Pike via The Tongue – 13km ......................................................................................... 66 9 Dove Crag & Little Hart Crag – 11km ................................................................................................................ 69 10 Riggindale & High Street – 12.5km ................................................................................................................... 75 11 Bow Fell & Crinkle Crags (grade I/II option) – 13km ................................................................................. 81 12 Scafell Pike via Piers Gill Path – 11km ............................................................................................................. 89 13 Great End (grade I/II option) – 11km ................................................................................................................. 95 Appendix .................................................................................................................................................................................. 106

CONTENTS

Phil Blanshard and Paul Goulding (right) in Skew Gill, Great End (route 13).

Introduction Snow, waist deep as we claw and wade our way up Skew Gill. Winters of late may have been milder, but every year there are enough days when you can ‘enjoy’ a full-on arctic experience in the Lake District. Skew Gill is just such a day. Snow has fallen right down to the valley floor at Seathwaite; by Sty Head we are leaning into a gale; the Gill offers some shelter, but even so, deep snow and swirling spindrift dash hopes of continuing to the summit of Great End. We’ll be back on a more settled day, and fortunately these are as frequent as wild weather ones over the course of a Lake District winter. My working title for this guidebook during its years of preparation has been the ‘winter fun book’, though doubtless the publisher will want something more grown-up. Despite the elemental pummelling in Skew Gill, fun is the essential component of all the walks and easy climbs featured in these pages. These are my own favourite winter outings, nothing too nail biting, but all rimed with the magic and exhilaration that snow or even a hoar frost brings to the Lakeland fells. Easiest of all is the walk up Latrigg, Keswick’s ‘house mountain’ just behind the town. Though only 368 metres high, it gets a transforming dusting of snow several times a winter, usually when a moist south-westerly blowing in from the coast meets colder inland air. Then a walk up Latrigg is perfect to stretch the legs for a couple of hours and to survey the higher fells: how much snow has fallen on the tops? What might be do-able on a longer day? Will the gullies be frozen? These are the musings of the winter mountaineer – and this little book has plenty of suggestions. A handful of the routes featured here are graded climbs, to a maximum of grade II. The majority though are basically winter walks of varying lengths and strenuousness. All, though, should be treated with respect. Snow and ice can radically alter the character of normally benign paths, and for most routes an ice axe, crampons or spikes should be carried. They may not be needed, but street-level conditions in Ambleside or Keswick are often a poor guide to what nature might have in store on the tops. Winter conditions can descend on the Lake District at any time from November to April. The photographs of Grisedale Pike and its neighbours included here (see page 5) were taken early in November when the rust colours of autumn were changed overnight to pristine white under a blue sky. Fresh snow lent an alpine feel to the Pike’s long north-east ridge; a cornice had formed along the rim of wild Hobcarton Crag and way in the distance the snow-laden Galloway Hills floated in a haze over the waters of the Solway Firth. Such is the magic that winter can bring to the Lake District. I hope this little book will lead you under its spell.

Stephen Goodwin

INTRODUCTION

vii

Area Map & Route Finder 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Grisedale Pike & Coledale .................................................................................. 5 1a Grisedale Pike – 11km ............................................................................ 8 1b Coledale Horseshoe – 13km ............................................................. 10 1c A Coledale Shortie – 5km ................................................................... 12 Latrigg – 6km ......................................................................................................... 15 Blencathra ............................................................................................................... 19 3a Hall’s Fell Ridge (grade I) – 7km .................................................... 21 3b Sharp Edge (grade II) – 7km ............................................................ 24 High Rigg & St John’s in the Vale ............................................................... 29 4a East Route – 7km ................................................................................... 30 4b West Route – 7km .................................................................................. 34 Browncove Crags & Helvellyn (grades I–II) – 7km ............................. 39 Gowbarrow – 6.5km .......................................................................................... 45 Catstye Cam, Helvellyn & Striding Edge – 12km ................................ 49 Grisedale Trilogy (Patterdale) ......................................................................... 57 8a Nethermost Gully (grade II) – 12km ............................................. 61 8b Nethermost Pike via East Ridge – 13km .................................... 64 8c Dollywaggon Pike via The Tongue – 13km ................................ 66 Dove Crag & Little Hart Crag – 11km ....................................................... 69 Riggindale & High Street – 12.5km .......................................................... 75 Bow Fell & Crinkle Crags (grade I/II option) – 13km ........................ 81 Scafell Pike via Piers Gill Path – 11km .................................................... 89 Great End (grade I/II option) – 11km ........................................................ 95

xvi WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

3 2

1 4

13 12

CONTAINS ORDNANCE SURVEY DATA © CROWN COPYRIGHT AND DATABASE RIGHT

AREA MAP & ROUTE FINDER

xvii

On Riggindale ridge, Haweswater beyond.

10 10 Riggindale & High Street A ridge ramble where eagles last soared The three-kilometre Riggindale ridge rising from the shore of Haweswater to lofty High Street must be one of the finest stairways in Lakeland. Riggindale was, until recent years, the final redoubt of eagles in the Lake District, with all the wild grandeur that suggests. While a covering of snow of course only enhances the winter splendour of such terrain, a seriously deep blanket could present an access problem. Mardale Head, where our walk starts, lies at the southern tip of Haweswater, several kilometres from any village and at the furthest point of lanes that rarely see a gritter or snowplough. Even free of snow, the lane alongside Haweswater is often icy on its twists and dips. However, let’s assume decent conditions for a winter’s outing: a crisp, clear day with a dusting of snow at mid height on the fells and rather more on the tops; perfect for this Riggindale round and not as unlikely as pessimists might think. Driving in along the east side of Haweswater we get our first indication of what the day has in store: the whole hog-backed ridge comes into view, overtopped in the distance by a rim of the crags on the east flank of High Street. Cornices and old snow lie in the shade here well into spring. Riggindale is the deep cwm lying north of the ridge, to which it has informally lent its name. Twisting down the centre of the cwm, Riggindale Beck flows from beneath the High Street–Ramps gill Head watershed to enter Haweswater Reservoir and slake the thirst of Greater Manchester. From the small car park at Mardale Head we skirt the far shore of the reservoir for 800 metres before beginning the steady ascent of the ridge. Below us, on the north side of

the crest, a series of crags are passed almost unseen – Swine Crag, Heron Crag and then Eagle Crag, a sad reminder of the king of birds that once reigned here. The last solitary male is believed to have perished when Storm Desmond deluged Cumbria in December 2015. But gloomy thoughts about species extinction are hard to sustain in such surroundings. Reaching Rough Crag at over 600 metres a magnificent view opens out, almost at our feet, down into Blea Water, deepest of all the Lakeland tarns, enclosed in a corrie backed by the savage buttresses and gullies of Blea Water Crag – challenging snow and ice climbing territory in a ‘proper’ winter. Our way dips to the shallow col of Caspel Gate with its tiny tarn, probably frozen, then climbs the arête of Long Stile to gain the plateau of High Street. Here the character of the walk changes radically: the cliffs and corries are behind us and instead we’re on a broad, flat ridge with a tumbled stone wall and the course of a Roman road running south–north along its top. The ‘summit’ cairn (828m) is on Racecourse Hill, so called because up to the nineteenth century shepherds would gather here every July to exchange stock, make merry, hold bouts of Cumberland wrestling and race horses. If the day is still clear, there’s a huge view south over Windermere to silvered Morecambe Bay and the Irish Sea. If cloud, rain or snow has rolled in then High Street, in all its flatness, can be a confusing place. The surest guide is that tumbled wall, which we’ll follow north, dipping to the Straits of Riggindale then rising towards Rampsgill Head. Here we leave the line of the

10 RIGGINDALE & HIGH STREET

Roman road and swing east to Kidsty Pike on the northern rim of Riggindale. Though the eagles may be gone from the dale, there is a good chance of seeing red deer in this remote area. The rocky eminence of

Kidsty Pike makes a fine lookout point, a place to survey the wilds of Riggindale and its bounding crags a last time before we descend to cross the beck near its outflow to Haweswater and return to Mardale Head.

Riggindale ridge, shadowed on the left, leading to High Street.

10 RIGGINDALE & HIGH STREET

10 Riggindale & High Street

12.5km

MARDALE HEAD – RIGGINDALE RIDGE – HIGH STREET – STRAITS OF RIGGINDALE – KIDSTY PIKE – MARDALE HEAD

RIGGINDALE & HIGH STREET DISTANCE: 12.5km TOTAL ASCENT: 800m TIME: 5hrs START: Mardale Head, Haweswater GR: NY 469107 SATNAV: CA10 2RP (NEAREST) MAP: OS Explorer OL5: The English Lakes: North-eastern area, 1:25,000 REFRESHMENTS: Haweswater Hotel (T: 01931 713 235), Mardale Inn, Bampton (T: 01931 713 244), Crown and Mitre Inn, Bampton Grange (T: 01931 713 225).

ALTITUDE PROFILE

Metres

828

0 Km

The route A horseshoe hike above Riggindale; ascent of Riggindale Ridge to High Street (828m), descent via Kidsty Pike (780m).

Start Small car park at Mardale Head, at the south end of the tarmac road on the east side of Haweswater. GR: NY 469107. Through the gate at the end of the car park on to the Gatescarth Pass track for just a few metres before turning right at corner of the stone wall and following path rightwards around the head of the reservoir, crossing Mardale Beck. Path heads NE, after 500m bears uphill away from reservoir, plantation on right, to brow of The Rigg. 2 Through opening in wall (view into Riggindale) turn left up ridge. In 10mins path cuts through gap in wall to cairn and begins steeper climb, at first on left of ridge. After crossing Rough Crag the path dips to a saddle, Caspel Gate, with a small tarn, then climbs to a cairn on the edge of the summit plateau. 3 From cairn, head SW to wall, not visible at first. Wall runs north to south the length of High Street. Follow wall south to summit trig point (828m) on Racecourse Hill – barely 10mins walk from cairn at plateau edge.

78 WINTER WALKS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT

10 High Street (828m) From trig point, follow wall north for 1.25km, dipping towards the Straits 4 of Riggindale. Both sides of the wall are well trodden. Which side you choose may depend on whether the ground is frozen and where any snow has drifted up. It is worth stopping at Short Stile, a knoll just east of the wall, for the superb view over Riggindale. 5 At the Straits (col at the head of Riggindale) the path divides. Bear right, curving ever eastwards around the lip of the craggy slope. Some 700m from the Straits is a second junction. Ignore the branch heading north towards High Raise and instead continue east to Kidsty Pike. Kidsty Pike (780m) A rocky eminence on the north lip of Riggindale. From the Pike begin the 6 long, 2.5km descent to the bridge over Riggindale Beck. For the most part it is easy strolling with just a steeper, slightly scrambly section around Kidsty Howes, by which time the route is heading roughly SE. Riggindale Beck Cross the footbridge and follow path rising left (SE) to a spinney of larches 7 and on up the hillside to the brow of The Rigg at point 2. Follow the outward route back to the car park at Mardale Head.

Blea Water, a teardrop tarn enclosed by Riggindale ridge, High Street and Mardale Ill Bell.