Kalymnos 2023 Sport Climbing Guidebook

Climbing Guidebook 2023

Kalymnos

Aris Theodoropoulos

Katie Roussos

A portion of proceeds from the sale of this guidebook goes back into the local community, climbing development, and crag maintenance

Crag index

Kalymnos

01 Styx (Olive, François Guillot, Emporios Portal)

02 Kastri (Kreissaal)

03 Palace (Thalassa, Baby House)

04 Sikati Cave

05 The Beach

06 Secret Garden

07 Palionisos

08 Heroes

09 Prophitis Andreas (Hercules, Chinese Wall)

10 Skalia (Pillar, Hotel California, Balcony, Skalia Cave)

11 Ghost Kitchen (Atlantis, Utopia, Aegean Islands)

12 Cave (Sevasti)

13 Galatiani (Reservoir Dogs, Black Forest)

14 Noúfaro (Eagle Wall, Magic Wall, Nirvana, Almodóvar)

15 Belgian Chocolates (Dalle à Patouche, Fotisi Wall)

16 Arhi (Chäpi, Balcony Helvetia)

17 Sea Breeze (White Wine Wall, Great Canyon, Apache Gorge)

18 Star Wall

19 Arginonta

20 Arginonta Skyline (Ovoland, Little Verdon, Piccalia)

21 Arginonta Valley (Black Buddha, Comic Tree)

22 Summertime (Local Freezer, Magoulias, Summer Wine, Nikoleta, Big Shadow)

30

31

28 Olympic Wall (Ocean Dream, Space Terrace, Nemo)

crag details

in

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Climbing Guidebook 2023

Kalymnos

Aris Theodoropoulos

Katie Roussos

A portion of proceeds from the sale of this guidebook goes back into the local community, climbing development, and crag maintenance

Kalymnos Climbing Guidebook

ISBN: 978-88-98495-20-7

© 2023 by Aris Theodoropoulos, Katie Roussos

All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the authors except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. For permissions contact: climb@climbkalymnos.com

Credits

Uncredited photos: Aris Theodoropoulos

Photo-topos, research, text: Aris Theodoropoulos

Layout, text: Katie Roussos

Cover design: Tim O’Hara

Published by Vertical-Life GmbH, via Brennero 32, Bressanone, Italy

Printed in Italy by Esperia Srl

First printing, May 2023

Cover: Marcel Heemskerk on AEGIALIS 7c (p. 384)

Photo: David Kaszlikowski / Verticalvision.pl

Back cover: Max Berger on BE LIKE WATER 8a (p. 336)

Photo: Aris Theodoropoulos

Disclaimer

Climbing poses some inherent risks, particularly if practiced without the necessary training and equipment. The information in this book is not meant to replace proper climbing training. The authors and publisher accept no liability for any accidents or injuries occurring at any crag included in this book. Be sure that your equipment is well-maintained, and do not take risks beyond your level of experience, aptitude, training and comfort level. The safest approach for new climbers is to attend a full climbing course, then join an experienced group of climbers. The route descriptions, grades, topos and other route information contained herein are only a guide. Readers are advised to take full responsibility for their safety and know their limits. At the time of writing, access and climbing at all crags included in this edition was unrestricted. This is not guaranteed for the future and may change without notice. Some photo-topos in this book contain deliberate inaccuracies, included to protect the information contained herein against unauthorized copying/reproduction. These are minor and do not compromise the safety of the persons climbing.

INDALO AERIALPLUS F EEL CLOSER TO THE ROCK.

An aggressively shaped shoe providing superb responsiveness. Indalo has been designed for a more natural and efficient climbing.

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Crag Planner

A remote area with stunning views and mid-grade climbing on grey walls. A bit sharp.

Climbing amidst ruins of an ancient castle. An orange vertical pocketed wall and sharp slabs left and right.

A photogenic arch and distinctive rock formations. Varied rock, from slabs to slight overhangs, and climbing on unusual features.

A massive hole in the ground and 3-D pumpy climbing on stalactites and tufas.

A crag just above a small beach for combining climbing and swimming. Sharp grey slabs on left, red overhangs on right.

Highly featured rock, stalactites, tufa mushrooms, and sit-down rests at one of the best crags for summer climbing.

Three separate crags above Palionisos Beach. Plenty of sun and good vertical climbs from very easy to moderately hard.

New crag high above Skalia. Three small interconnected caves with vertical walls, varied quality climbs, and sweeping views.

Well-bolted routes on an exceptional vertical grey wall and featured red rock. Ideal for grades from 6a to 7a.

An impressive yellow pillar with some good but sharp routes, a cave with very hard routes, and several vertical climbs.

Mushroom stalactites and perfect balancy/friction slabs at the main crag. Slabs, athletic tufas, and late shade at two sub-sectors.

A small pocketed cave near the road, and easier vertical walls on the sides. Good vertical routes, longer shade at new sub-sector.

A big face, a cave packed with stalactites and tufas, quality rock, and great routes. Two small easier sub-sectors with sharp slabs.

A wide-ranging sector with good grey slabs and walls, some technical multi-pitches, and a small, very hard sub-sector.

A smooth slab rising up to 120m. Great long single pitches, but amazing two-pitch routes as well.

One of the island’s most classic crags, with hard steep routes in the middle and easier smooth slabs on both sides.

Steep grey slabs, some smaller crags with sharp walls, and a new sub-sector with short overhanging routes and longer shade.

A good wall and slab on a natural balcony overlooking Arginonta. Vertical climbs mostly from 6a to 6b.

Until 12:00 Year–round ••

S Until 12:00 November to April •

S, W, NW Until 17:00 at parts Year-round •••

SW, NW Until 13:30

S Until 13:00

S Until 13:00

SE Until 11:00

S Until 14:00 at parts

S, SE Until 10:30, later at parts

SE After 16:00

September to May •

September to May •

September to May ••

November to May ••

November to May •••

November to May ••

November to May •

Crag Planner

Superb routes on holes and small tufas in the caves overlooking Telendos village. Very sharp routes on the grey outer walls.

An impressive north face rising up to 190 meters and featuring two multi-pitches with an alpine feel. For experienced climbers.

Six crags with very distinct characters. The surrounding terrain is wild and undeveloped.

A well-featured, well-bolted technical slab and wall in a pleasant setting. Sharp rock on occasion.

A massive amphitheater over the sea. Smooth rock, vertical technical climbs, and gym-style pumpy routes coexist in harmony.

A popular sector with diverse grades and styles from low-angle climbs to massive overhangs.

A small balcony suspended high above the sea, and impressive unusual rock with horizontal ledges.

A cliff complete with stalactites, tufa pipes, and an immaculate wall. New sub-sector Zoidis on the right adds varied short routes.

First-class climbing on very long well-protected routes up to 50m on vertical or slightly overhanging rock.

A hardcore cave on Telendos with a maze of huge stalactites. For experienced climbers only.

A massive face featuring some popular, adventurous multi-pitches up to 11 pitches long. An early morning start is essential.

A remote small crag past Emporios. Sharp rock and not up to the usual Kalymnos quality.

A grey/red wall with a distinctive corner to the right of Kastri. Mostly sharp low-quality routes, with a few exceptions.

Three crags high above the “Pirate” beach. Sharp grey slabs and still some loose rock.

A small and remote crag in the Palionisos area. A pillar and sub-vertical grey slab high up on the left.

Very short routes on sharp grey and brown rock far beneath the usual Kalymnos quality. Left of sector Paradise Beach (Palionisos).

A grey pocketed wall high above a beach on the right side of Palionisos bay.

A cliff just above the water between Palionisos and Vathy. Walking is not possible, the approach is only by boat.

Kalymnos: A never-ending story

There are places capable of leaving extraordinarily intense memories. And when you are in those places again, you feel disoriented until you realize that it is happening—it is for real. For us, Kalymnos is one of those places on earth.

The ritual is always the same. A flight above Southeastern Europe inland, the bird’s eye view of the Athens port, the amazing land features in the Aegean Sea, an immense pastel painting with a strong blue cast, the descent, and the final approach. Once landed in the “big sister” Kos, it begins with moving to Mastichari, then waiting for the ferry on the long pier. The silhouette of Kalymnos appears in the distance as soon as the ship leaves the port and heads north. While the island is getting closer and closer, we get to look around, and we scan the people on board, wondering how many of them are climbers. Usually it is not difficult to know. Half an hour later, Kalymnos closes the horizon and the ship docks in Pothia, a nice town, similar to many others on the Greek Islands.

Leaving the harbor behind; north is the direction. At the top of the hill in Kamari, another world unfolds in front of us: the sea, the rock, the sky, the villages, Telendos on the left…a gigantic sentinel towering over the water. We know why we are here.

I do not remember exactly how many times we’ve been to Kalymnos over the years. We have visited the island in almost every season. Each time we go down the steep curves, discovering the northern part of the island—at that exact point, something changes inside of us. It is like a light that turns on, spreading a warm, enjoyable sense of well-being through our bodies.

At that moment in time, we feel immersed in a new chapter of a never-ending story.

Kalymnos remains a combination of factors in its fascination and appeal. The traditional charm of the Greek Islands meets a simplicity of life here that we, the climbers, love. Notwithstanding the continual touristic development, it’s still nothing compared with other more famous touristic destinations, like Kos, just a few miles to the south. True, some crags might be overcrowded on occasion during the peak seasons.

Nevertheless, most of the time you feel comfortable among your peers, as we all share the same passion. And, after all, there is still plenty of rock where only a few people go.

These are the feelings I get when I hold the new Kalymnos guidebook in my hands. Obviously, I also get a strange tingling in my fingers. Memories of sending

and failures come flooding in, and I am caught by compelling new challenges.

The 2023 guidebook testifies to the vitality of the island and its attraction. After more than two decades and thousands of visitors, it is definitely far from any decline. Katie and Aris respect the origins and present this book in their usual spectacular layout, with colorful pictures and precise, detailed descriptions of spots and routes. It is a titanic effort, but this work displays old, famous, and celebrated crags side by side with unknown, forgotten, and brand-new rocks.

The Kalymnos guidebook is a testament to the apparently inexhaustible rock playground the island offers. Every edition discloses new crags and new routes. Believe it or not, yes, it is a never-ending story. We are delighted to live moments of this story, on both paper and reality. The book continues the tradition and makes our memories vivid, and, at the same time, it fuels the desire to return to Kalymnos.

It is made for those who feel at home on that tiny island off the main tourist routes. For those who want that feeling of being back where they belong. For those who love the wind, brilliant light, colorful rocks, red sun dipping into the sea…and for those who do not give up on their never-ending climbs.

Kalymnos calling.

Marco Scolaris President, International Federation of Sport Climbing

At the top of the hill, another world unfolds: the sea, the rock, the sky, Telendos on the left... We know why we are here.

Nice to see you (again), everyone!

It’s been 24 years since my life-changing Kalymnos journey began. Still in the midst of it now, I wake up every day realizing how lucky I am that this little island found me. It allows me to climb, bolt, research, and write—in other words, spend my time doing what I love most. I’ve made countless new friends, sent (and failed to send) exciting projects, and been met with some turbulence along the way, but, most of all, I have understood what it feels like to belong.

The Kalymnos guidebook is a labor of love and a massive undertaking all at once. It is a job that never stops and has real physical, emotional, and financial costs. So why make another one? Isn’t Kalymnos spent, all the good crags already taken?

The answer is a resounding “no.” Kalymnos is alive and kicking and still able to surprise. Some of the new crags published in this edition are truly special, and some new routes so good that it makes you wonder how they managed to hide in plain sight for so long.

Here’s what you will find in the following pages: Improved usability thanks to an entirely new layout; even clearer approach instructions thanks to new, aerial crag panoramas and QR codes pointing to exact locations; an alphabetical route index in addition to the ever-popular crag planner; all-new photo-topos for most crags; and, as always, the free digital version of the full guide plus 40 additional app-only crags in the Vertical-Life app included with this book.

New crags in this edition include: Pezonda and its sub-sectors Valhalla, Eora Cave, Lemon Crumble Wall, Peanut Wall, and Great Escape (50 new shaded routes on the wild northeast side of Kalymnos); the dreamy Little Eden (36 routes full of character, and steps away from the beach); Heroes, at the highest point above Skalia (27 new routes in small caves and walls with views to die for); and Griffig, the underdog that catapulted its way to the top of the bestseller list thanks to meticulous equipping and great conditions. The list goes on to include brand-new sub-sectors or improvements at established crags: Meltemi (Poets) was rebolted and expanded with 20 new

routes on quality vertical walls, small overhangs, and compact slabs; La Vague (Aghios Mamas) is a new sub-sector that features an impressive cave with wave-like formations and fresh, high-quality orange rock; Apache Gorge is a new sub-sector high up in the gully above Sea Breeze with 25 steep routes; and smaller sub-sectors Hercules and Chinese Wall (Prophitis Andreas), Rina (Vathy), Sevasti (Cave), Indian’s Face (Noúfaro), Zoidis (Pescatore), Aegean Islands (Ghost Kitchen), and Seven Dwarfs (Ivory Tower) all add value and variety to their crags.

Last but not least, dozens of individual new routes have gone up at established crags. Sectors Afternoon and Aegean Sea Wall have 20 new routes each; Olympic Wall and Ocean Dream boast new adventurous multi-pitches; Upper Noúfaro is expanded and renamed “Almodóvar.” Big Shadow was

There is non-stop work happening in the background to keep things going, but the direction of Kalymnos is clearly forward.

rebolted and cleaned, and new routes were added. Arginonta Valley has new routes at Diagoras Cave, Alani Wall, Rock Tragos, and Comic Tree. Arginonta, Odyssey, Arhi Left, Balcony Helvetia, Paradise Beach, Ourania Cave, White Shark, Thalassa Left, Piccalia, Pocket Wall, and Milianos all have new routes. There is non-stop work happening in the background to keep things going, and of course there is always room for improvement—but the direction of Kalymnos is clearly forward.

Bolts and anchors used in most new development, as well as necessary rebolting, were bought thanks to guidebook proceeds. Our website, Climb Kalymnos, has been informing climbers for 14 years. Your support of the Kalymnos guidebook makes it all possible.

Aris

April 2023

Introduction Logistics

Basics

• Population: 17,797 (2021)

• Capital: Pothia

• Area size: 134.5km2

• Highest elevation: 676m

• Time zone: gmt + 2

• Currency: Euro

Kalymnos is the fourth largest of the Dodecanese Islands, a group of islands in the southeast Aegean Sea. It is located 183 nautical miles (339km) southeast of Athens, and 85 nautical miles (157km) northwest of Rhodes, the largest of the islands. Many smaller islands nearby include, most notably, Telendos, Pserimos, and Plati. The capital of Kalymnos is Pothia, a traditional yet lively town on the east coast, which doubles as the island’s main port.

Ironically, in the past, Kalymnos was known as isola umbrosa, or “island of shade.” That is no longer the case. Trees do exist, but the island is mainly covered with low, dense maquis vegetation and fragrant woody herbs that thrive in the unrelenting sun (thyme, summer savory, oregano, sage). The terrain is mountainous, with a major rock escarpment all along the west coast.

For centuries, this sparse and steep terrain—now so coveted by climbers—forced the locals to sea. Kalymnian men became sponge divers for a living, and they excelled in this traditional (yet highly risky) occupation to such an extent that Kalymnos became

the most celebrated sponge trade center in the Mediterranean until the decline of the sponge trade in the 1980s. Still, among Greeks, Kalymnos is most famous as the “sponge divers’ island,” and its history will forever be linked to that little sea creature.

Getting there

OPTION 1 (best): Kos to Kalymnos. Fly to the international airport of nearby Kos (kgs), then take a local ferry to Kalymnos (30–50 minutes).

This option is the quickest and most cost-effective for the majority of climbers, as numerous European airlines (including low-cost) operate direct flights to touristy Kos, especially between spring and autumn. From Kos, simply take a taxi or the infrequent airport bus to Mastichari (a small port 7km from the airport). Local ferries between Mastichari and Pothia (main port of Kalymnos) run every few hours, so you may have to nurse a beer while you wait for the next ferry.

The local ferries between Kos and Kalymnos run 365 days a year. Their timetables are notoriously hard to pin down, and they change often (scan QR code for more). Ferries only stop on days with very strong winds (not often, but it happens). In this case, don’t panic: wait in Mastichari (there are places to eat, drink, and hang out) until sea travel is restored.

On arrival at Pothia, there will be taxis waiting at the pier for local transportation. (There is also an island bus service, but it can be erratic). From Pothia, the west coast villages where most climbers stay are a 15–20-minute drive.

OPTION 2 (good, not great): Athens to Kalymnos. From Athens, take either a regional flight from the Athens airport (ath) to Kalymnos (jkl) or a multihour, usually overnight ferry from Piraeus port (main port of Athens) to Kalymnos.

Ferries from Piraeus to Kalymnos operate yearround, usually three to four times per week, and take anywhere from 10 to 14 hours. This option is best for those already in Athens who want to bring a car (not really recommended).

Flights directly from Athens to the regional airport of Kalymnos operate three to five times per week and take about 50 minutes. This is a convenient option, but a) flights are not cheap, and b) flights are more likely to be cancelled due to adverse weather.

Accommodation

Almost all types of accommodation are available on Kalymnos. These include basic rooms at good value; nicer rental studios or apartments with kitchenettes and more amenities; small family-owned hotels; and, true to recent trends, more and more “boutique” accommodations.

Whichever option you choose, you can expect a balcony or terrace and views that range from beautiful to stunning. The one thing you will not find on Kalymnos is large, mass-tourism resorts. Compared to most other Greek islands, at the time of this writing Kalymnos still offers great value for money, even in the peak summer tourism months of July and August, when prices in the Greek Islands are highest.

Camping is not an option. There’s no designated campsite on Kalymnos, and unregulated free camping is strictly prohibited.

Which villages are closest to the crags?

Kalymnos is a relatively small island, and the crags are never too far away. That said, the island’s west and northwest coasts sit in the shadow of its trademark red/grey limestone. The main climbing hub on Kalymnos is Masouri, a village on the west coast directly opposite Telendos island. Together with adjacent villages Myrties to the south and Armeos to the north, Masouri is where most options for accommodation, restaurants, mini markets, and climbing shops can be found.

Other reasons climbers prefer the west coast: a) it is possible to walk almost everywhere, i.e. many different crags, beaches, shops, restaurants, and the Myrties jetty for catching the boat to Telendos; b) it is the best location for meeting other climbers; c) those legendary Telendos sunsets you see in other people’s photos can be enjoyed daily from your own balcony.

Masouri is not the only choice. As high-quality climbing spreads to other parts of the island, so too do accommodation options. Arginonta, Skalia, and Emporios (northwest) are quieter and less developed than Masouri, but more traditional and also close to major crags and beaches. Panormos, Kantouni, Linaria, and Platis Gialos (south) are only a bit further from the main climbing areas, but closer to the airport and port, and still very close to beaches.

Accommodation is best booked in advance. If you plan to visit between April and October, the sooner you make arrangements the better. Most hotels and other rentals close from mid-November to late March (more or less), but there are still year-round options, including longer-term rentals for digital nomads or one-way-ticket travelers.

More info on flights, ferries, and other local beta

Below: Spagetti dinner at sundown on the balcony of a typical Armeos rental. This could be you. Photo: Verticalvision.pl

Opposite View of Pothia, the Kalymnos capital and port. Photo: Nikolaos Smalios

Local info

Getting around

A scooter or moped is most climbers’ choice for getting around on the island. Scooter rental shops are ubiquitous; however, as with accommodation, if you plan to visit in peak climbing season (April/May and September/October), booking a scooter in advance is a great idea. Car or bicycle rentals are also options, though scooter rentals outnumber them. Lastly, a local bus connects the west and northwest coasts to the capital, but it is infrequent and not very convenient.

Pharmacies abound on Kalymnos. Most are in the direction of Pothia. The pharmacy closest to Masouri is in Elies village, opposite the roundabout. Pharmacies have strict opening hours, but by law there will always be a pharmacy that stays open after hours and on holidays (it’s a rotation between all pharmacies, not the same pharmacy every time). If you need a pharmacy after closing hours, just stop at any pharmacy window and there will be a notice pointing to the pharmacies with extended hours for the week. If the notice is in Greek, get creative: ask a passerby on the street to translate, take a photo of the notice to the nearest open shop and ask—you will find a way. Most locals speak basic English or other languages, and all, without exception, will be eager to help.

Other local info

Payment methods and ATM machines: Cash is still the default payment method in Greece, but after the covid pandemic, credit cards and contactless payment methods became considerably more widespread. Most shops and bigger hotels accept them. Smaller familyrun accommodations may not, so ask in advance.

Helmets and driving licenses: Both are required. If renting a bicycle or scooter, the shop should be able to provide helmets as well as advance information about driving license specifics. (We Greeks still largely ride without helmets, for a variety of lame excuses. Do not do as we do.)

Healthcare

Hospital and doctors: The public hospital on Kalymnos is located near Pothia, on the outbound road from Pothia to Hora. There are numerous private doctor practices (including pediatricians, if you have kids) and medical labs as well. Most doctors speak a reasonable amount of English.

ATM machines can be found in Masouri, Myrties, Elies, and Pothia. To avoid extra fees, look for bank ATMs (Piraeus Bank, Alpha Bank, Eurobank, National Bank of Greece). “Euronet” ATMs charge fees for cash withdrawals on top of your own bank fees. In Masouri, there is a Piraeus Bank ATM next to Vouros pastry.

Gas/petrol stations: The closest ones to Masouri are in Elies village (5–7 minute drive), otherwise there are many in the direction of Pothia, the main port.

Wi-Fi and 5G: Free Wi-Fi is very widely available. Most rental studios, hotels, and cafés will have it, and most parts of the island have 5G coverage. For prepaid SIM cards and mobile data, your best bet in terms of price and coverage is a card from the cosmote shop (Greece’s largest carrier) in Pothia.

Police station: You are unlikely to need it. But just in case you do, it is on the main inbound road to Pothia, just before the taxi station. The EU emergency number, 112, is free to call from any telephone.

Washing services/laundry: Ask your landlord if laundry services are available for a fee at your rental, otherwise there is a coin-operated, self-service laundromat on the main road in Masouri.

Food and grocery shopping: Masouri and Myrties are full of mini-markets selling food, drinks, gifts, the guidebook, and so on. Elies village (5–7 minute drive) is the nearest alternative for a larger supermarket, gas, and pharmacy. Beyond that, Pothia has everything.

Toilet paper: It cannot be flushed down the toilet anywhere in Greece, including Kalymnos.

Tap water: You cannot drink tap water on Kalymnos. It comes from groundwater wells, and it is brackish, meaning lightly salty. (We have Italian neighbors, and they use tap water to cook their spaghetti because “it saves you from salting the pasta water.” Personally, our microbiomes are less adventurous.)

The two options for drinking and cooking water are a) temak, large metal water containers at each village dispensing purified water, and b) store-bought bottled water.

The first option, temak, is free and more sustainable. Masouri, Myrties, Elies, and Arginonta each have a temak container: in Masouri, it is opposite Ambiance Café; in Myrties, opposite the church and Aphrodite Studios; in Arginonta, opposite Teo Taverna; and in Elies, at the roundabout. The downside with temak is that it requires some effort and planning: you need empty bottles or containers, there is only one dispenser per village, and you must haul your water containers to and from the machine. The second option, of course, is bottled water. In Greece the price of bottled water is capped, so it is both relatively inexpensive and convenient. Sadly, the mountains of waste produced by all that plastic cannot (after all these years) be recycled on Kalymnos. They go straight into the trash.

Below: Some mini markets on Kalymnos are minier than mini. Bottom: Local man on his way to fill up with water in Myrties.

‹ Opposite Portrait of an actual Kalymnian moped. Artwork: @slava_arts

Downtime

Kalymnian cuisine and local products

The food on Kalymnos is simple, good, inexpensive, and, as with most other places in Greece, eating out is as much—if not more—about the experience as it is about the food itself. Breakfast is not for Greeks; but the dinner table, especially, is a focal point around which togetherness, community, raised voices and

mermizeli (a Greek salad that includes the usual suspects—tomato, cucumber, onion, olives—with added barley rusks and summer savory); local yogurt and cheese; figs; thyme honey; and an assortment of more esoteric seafood like sea squirts and a variety of clams, which you may be able to find at small local eateries. Keep an open mind and go for the onsight!

Families and active rest days

The Greek culture is very family-oriented, and locals in every small community will go out of their way to accommodate families with children. On the other hand, family-friendly infrastructure is lacking. Sidewalks are practically nonexistent on Kalymnos, roads are narrow, traffic is busy, and walking with children requires extra care. The best place for families with young children is Telendos, which is small and contained and where there are no cars. Boats to Telendos depart every 30 minutes from the jetty at Myrties. The boat ride alone is something most children love and look forward to.

laughter abound. At the heart is hospitality, where one’s own people and strangers alike are cared for, commingling through the late nights and the fights over the bill.

Restaurants on the more tourist-oriented west coast of Kalymnos cater to climbers and other visitors with a high degree of professionalism and flexibility, and chances are that you won’t feel the need to go further off the culinary beaten track. But if you are so inclined, take a late afternoon or evening and seek out little places in Pothia, Hora, Platanos, Vlychadia, or the other small villages outside the boundaries of the climbing map and mingle with the Kalymnians.

And if you are keen to taste the less streamlined, more authentic Kalymnian flavors beyond a gyros plate, chicken souvlaki, mousaka, or calamari—all available—you should also try mouoúri (goat stuffed with spiced rice and slow-cooked overnight in a clay pot); goat prepared any other way (usually in a tomato- or lemon-based stew); octopus “balls” (not those balls—these are just deep-fried octopus fritters);

Archaeological sites and museums: There are castles of considerable archaeological interest on Kalymnos. The 11th-century Castle of Hora, near sector Dodoni, was inhabited until the early 18th century. Chrysocheria Castle, located prominently between Hora and Pothia, was built by the Order of the Knights of St. John; there is evidence of continuous human presence since the Neolithic era in the castle’s surroundings. Three stone-built windmills are nearby.

Other important archaeological sites are scattered throughout the island, such as the foundations of the ancient acropolis of Pothia; ancient and Paleochristian ruins in Vathy; and Byzantine and Paleochristian ruins on the island of Telendos.

The island’s museums are small but fascinating. In Pothia, the Archaeological Museum features prehistoric, classical, and private collections alongside the preserved interior of a 19th-century Kalymnian mansion; the Museum of Marine Finds (Vlychadia), exhibits assorted items found underwater or salvaged from sunken ships; the Sponge Diving Museum (Pothia) is a poignant introduction to the island’s centuries-old marine history and culture; and the

Opposite

Around a table is the ideal place to experience Greece at its most authentic.

Kalymnian Home (Vothyni) is a private folk art museum which replicates daily life in a traditional local home in previous centuries.

Day trips to nearby islands: Besides Telendos, islands to visit for a day are Leros, Kos, and Pserimos. Or you could hire a sailing boat (with or without crew) and explore the rugged northeast coast of Kalymnos and the nearby islands, and if you want to cross international waters, there are boats making daily excursions to Bodrum, Turkey.

Outdoor activities

Beaches, snorkeling, scuba diving: There are beaches all around the island, most pebbled, including a small nudist beach on Telendos. Masouri beach is one of the few sandy beaches on Kalymnos, and it gets quite busy in summer. The beaches at Platys Gialos, Myrties, Arginonta, Kalamies (the “Pirate” beach), Emporios, and Palionisos are all worth exploring, as are the Vathy fjord and Vlychadia Bay further out. Basic masks, snorkels, and fins can be bought at the tourist shops and some mini markets. Watch out for sea urchins and passing boats (don’t stray too far from the coast). Scuba lessons are offered by several professional instructors on Kalymnos.

Caves: Kalymnos has numerous caves decorated with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Prehistoric findings indicate that many of these caves were

ancient ritual sites. Worth special mention are Kefala Cave, near Pothia; Daskalio Cave at Vathy; “Underworld” at Skalia village, near sector Cave; and the Cave of the Seven Virgins, in the depths of which, according to local lore, seven maidens disappeared trying to flee from the pirates.

Hiking: Among various hiking options, very worthwhile is The Kalymnos Trail, a multi-day trail linking mountain tops, remote beaches, archaeological sites, caves, lively villages, and ancient castles and towns via a continuous link along the best footpaths of the island. terrain maps publishes both The Kalymnos Trail and a hiking map detailing all major trails of Kalymnos and Telendos. Look for the book or map at shops in Masouri or online.

Photo: Lorraine Ciccarelli

‹ Below: Left, view from the high point above Skalia. Photo: @KieranJDuncan Right: Eliza and Kai in Kalymnos shrubland. Photo: Verticalvision.pl

Climbing

How it all began

In the summer of 1996, an unsuspecting climber named Andrea Di Bari visited Kalymnos from Italy for a non-climbing family holiday. One day he made it to the west coast of Masouri and looked up. We imagine his jaw hit the ground with an audible thump. He went back home, grabbed a drill and a group of friends, and together they returned to Kalymnos in 1997 to equip the first 43 routes, mostly at sector Arhi.

On the heels of Andrea Di Bari, our own Aris Theodoropoulos (a mountain guide from mainland Greece and the main author of this topo) came to Kalymnos. Aris, in his mid-thirties at the time, had

At the crag: dos and don’ts

Bring a wrench. The wind can cause nuts to come loose and hangers spin, especially when quickdraws are left on routes. Most climbers try to tighten them with bare hands, but a wrench is better, inexpensive, and convenient. A 17mm x 19mm double box-end wrench, like the one pictured, is ideal, and you would be helping your local equippers with basic crag maintenance.

Help with gardening. Weeds, thorns, and woody shrubs often grow in holds and footholds of routes that don’t get many ascents, especially in springtime. Besides obstructing the holds and footholds, vegetation may also conceal loose rock. A pair of gloves is a good thing to have at the crag anyway and, again, you’d be helping your local equippers with very basic crag maintenance.

Avoid skin irritants. The Ruta graveolens plant (common rue, photo on right) can cause severe burn-like skin blisters if you touch it when it is flowering. The milk of fig trees, which grow profusely on the island, can also cause irritation when coming in contact with bare skin. And mosquitoes are a persistent annoyance most months of the year. Every shop on Kalymnos sells bug spray, but if you are particular about what you use, bring your own.

already amassed considerable experience opening both trad and sport routes throughout Greece. He liaised with the local authorities, communicated the potential of their island as a climbing destination, and collaborated with the municipality to implement a set of measures for the proper development and promotion of climbing on Kalymnos. Aris published the first Kalymnos guidebook in 2000 to coincide with the first ever local climbing festival. Subsequently, nearly 10 more climbing festivals were organized in the period between 2000–2019, the turning point being Petzl’s RocTrip in 2006, which brought the biggest names in climbing at the time to Kalymnos. The North Face also sponsored three consecutive festivals (2012–14), and since then, the local municipality has been putting together small-scale events with some regularity.

Don’t feed the goats. Goats are everywhere on Kalymnos, especially at the crags. They are not hungry, so don’t feed them. Local goats are perfectly accustomed to climbers, and they stop at nothing when food is near. They are masters of food theft, even food sealed in a wrapper. If you think a goat can’t open your backpack, you are wrong. Always keep it tightly shut, and don’t let your guard down.

Belay with sturdy shoes. Lots of belayers are seen wearing flip flops (and belaying sitting down, which is just as bad). Think of a likely scenario in which the lead climber falls and the belayer flies off the ground and slams into the rock. That’s bad enough; why also break toes or have skin ripped off the soles of your feet? It is entirely preventable.

Crag Etiquette

ON YOUR WAY TO THE CRAG:

• Park your scooter or car in a sensible manner. Don’t block the path, the access to homes or private land, or any other private property.

• Stay on the path. Do not take shortcuts. Going off path can be dangerous.

• Close all gates behind you. The gates are there for local shepherds to manage their goats and sheep. We must all help.

AT THE CRAG:

• Be nice. Keep your voices down; don’t play loud music; keep an eye on your children; and fly drones responsibly and only with permission from other climbers at the crag.

• Be considerate. Clean your chalk marks with a brush when you are finished climbing a route. Don’t keep routes “on reserve” for hours by leaving ropes and/or quickdraws on them, unless you are prepared to let other climbers use them as well.

• Smokers, if you must smoke at the crag, don’t do it next to other climbers. And collect all your cigarette litter: cigarette filters take decades to degrade, and their toxic residue damages the environment.

• Use best practices when pooping and peeing. Walk at least 100m from the cliff and path. Dig a hole and do your business. Pack out any toilet paper or wipes and take with you. Cover hole with dirt and rocks. (Certain crags, such as Rock n Roll Cave at Arginonta Valley, have sections on terraces high off the ground accessed by via ferrata steps. Do not use the terrace as a toilet. Go back down.)

BEFORE LEAVING THE CRAG:

• Leave No Trace . Pick up all garbage, including what others may have left behind. Leave the crag better than you found it.

Opposite Aris with Elena and Andrea Di Bari in the early 2000s. Elena is holding the 2nd edition of the Kalymnos guidebook.

What does it mean to Leave No Trace?

Climbing

Route character

Kalymnos is a sport climbing venue, and routes are graded according to the French grading system. There is no bouldering or trad climbing on the island. However, there are several very good fully bolted multi-pitches on Kalymnos and Telendos, some going all the way to the top of the cliff.

The rock on Kalymnos is limestone of the very best quality. It can be a bit sharp in places, but it is free of choss (i.e. rotten, loose rock). The rock is varied, and the climbing is full of character: balancy slabs, delicate walls, pumpy routes with pockets, stalactites or tufas on overhanging rock and roofs.

Kalymnian rock seems to come in three varieties: extremely overhanging with blobs, stalactites, and tufas (which can still be “just” 7a, even at a 20-degree angle); slightly overhanging or vertical smooth white/ orange walls with pockets and smaller tufa features;

and sharp grey slabs full of water pockets (gouttes d’eau) with little iron knobs cemented into the matrix. The best of the routes can combine all three types of rock in one pitch.

Equally important is the fact that the limestone is showing fewer signs of polish compared to some other well-known climbing areas in Europe. This situation will be slow to change given the particularly rough surface of the rock. Most routes are about 30m long on average, but there are several longer single pitches up to 40m, even some up to 60m long. Additionally, there are several multi-pitches up to five pitches long, and fully bolted yet adventurous long routes that go to the top of the south face of Telendos up to 11 pitches long.

“Kalymnos-style” bolting: Many climbers have described the equipping of routes on Kalymnos as the gold standard of sport climbing. Routes are bolted with stainless steel bolts in a generally sensible and

Gordon Jenkin

Opposite

‹ Below: Marie-Laure Gage on MORTEAU RICO 5c (p. 378). At right, Aris equipping MARLOWE 8a (p. 102) at sector Heroes, and at bottom, Hannes Webhofer cleaning loose rock at new sector Pezonda.

Two types of rock at Ghost Kitchen: a climber on REMEMBER WADI RUM 6c (p. 130) on left, and Carlo Nyte on GLOBUS 7a (p. 129) on the right.

encouraging manner. Bolting on Kalymnos has been intentional almost from the start, the goal being to include every climber regardless of age, climbing ability, or experience. To this end, on most routes the bolts are relatively close together, the first three bolts are close to the ground and to each other for reducing the risk of ground falls, and most anchors on Kalymnos

More info on crags, equipping, and other climbing beta

have clippable permanent carabiners instead of closed rings. Equal attention is being directed to the proper cleaning of routes from vegetation and loose rock.

Purists complaining about “too many bolts” on Kalymnos seem to forget that there is no helicopter rescue in Greece. In case of an accident, the injured climber cannot be airlifted, but instead can only be transported to an ambulance and from there to the local hospital. Plenty of runout venues exist in the world for enjoying the sport without clipping all those annoying bolts. Kalymnos is not one of them.

Equipping new routes: In 2016, based on Kalymnos equipping standards, the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (eooa) issued a set of guidelines that must be followed when equipping and rebolting sport routes in Greece to ensure a minimum of best bolting practices and hardware quality. To read the equipping guidelines in detail, scan QR code above.

Lorraine Ciccarelli

Climbing

Seasons

The dry climate of Kalymnos makes year-round climbing possible. Some seasons, naturally, are better than others. Autumn is ideal, and it is no surprise that October is peak climbing season. Mild weather and comfortable temperatures make it possible to climb all day. It doesn’t typically rain at all in September and October, and from mid-October until late November conditions tend to be optimal.

Spring is nearly as good as autumn. The sea is too cold for swimming, and the chance of rain is higher— but Kalymnian rock generally dries fast. Hills are green, glorious, and fragrant. If the previous winter has been rainy, the tufas may be seeping. Stalactites will sometimes drip in the spring (as they are softer, they are more likely to break; handle with care). You can climb inside the caves when it rains, but not during a thunderstorm.

Winters are not bad. Kalymnos has a lot of premium south-facing crags, particularly between Arginonta and Emporios, which are perfect for climbing on cold winter days. Mild sunny days are frequent in winter. A few restaurants and rental studios in Masouri stay open year-round. Choices will be limited, but there are still places to eat and sleep.

Summers are better than you’d think. The obvious rule is to always climb in the shade. Some very popular crags (Secret Garden, Arginonta Valley, Little Eden, Griffig, Pezonda to name a few) stay in the shade almost all day. They often enjoy cool breezes, and you may even need long sleeves for belaying in the shade.

Climbing with kids

Kids are always at risk of serious injury, even death, from falling or ricocheting rock—even when wearing helmets or staying clear of the cliffs. There are goats at every crag, often traversing quietly above the cliffs. Rockfall can ensue without warning. Wind or rain can also dislodge rock. In this guidebook, the authors assess each crag’s “kid friendliness.” This is an opinion, not a guarantee. The responsibility for children’s safety at the crags rests solely with their parents or other supervising adults.

Grades, stars, and descriptions

Considerable efforts have been made toward consistent grading on Kalymnos, but because routes are equipped by climbers from all over the world (and some of these routes have yet to see their second ascent), some grades will inevitably change.

grade distribution (2023 edition: 4216 routes)

Based on the total number of routes in the 2023 edition (app and print) of this guidebook. Sport routes in Greece are graded according to the French system. For grade conversions, see table on back flap.

Grade distribution on Kalymnos: One of the greatest things about Kalymnos is that there is something for everyone, as shown in the graph above. Grades range from 3a to 9a. A little over half of the routes on Kalymnos are up to 6b+, more than a third of all routes are between 6a–6b+, but there are also nearly 900 routes graded 7b and up. At this writing, the hardest confirmed grade is 9a (los revolucionarios, sector Odyssey, redpointed by Adam Ondra in 2009). Many projects are expected to be harder than 9a.

Star ratings: Part of the Kalymnos guidebooks since the first edition, star ratings are intended as a tool for helping climbers sift through thousands of choices. One of the main advantages is highlighting routes that are bad in a specific way. Stars are not intended to steer all climbers to the same routes. For repeat visitors, star ratings (especially the “musical notes”) aim to highlight excellent new lines that are typically at faraway crags these climbers might not otherwise visit, or worthwhile harder climbs (typically 8a+ and above) that are at a low risk of polishing due to the

grade’s inherent limitations. For first-time visitors, stars aim to highlight the key starting points for a full Kalymnos experience. Imagine your first day on an island with four thousand plus climbs. Where to start?

It is easy to dismiss star ratings as being filtered through the authors’ personal biases and preferences—and of course those come into play. But most of the factors that elevate the aesthetic value of a climb are specific and hard to dispute: a route’s natural line; the rock’s color and texture; a flowing sequence of moves; a consistent level of difficulty; and quality rock that is solid, without loose parts or obstructive vegetation.

Star ratings aside, some routes and sectors are destined to be extensively—even excessively—climbed. The 6b+ route harakiri is the only easier route in an archipelago of harder classic climbs at Spartacus; of course it’s everybody’s warm-up. The long wave of caves and gorgeous walls that is sector Odyssey sits in full view a stone’s throw away from the main road; of course tens of thousands of climbers flock to it.

Good routes in plain sight attract climbers like bees to honey, with or without stars. It’s the rest of them—new and faraway, excellent but hidden, mediocre, bad, or downright dangerous routes—that could use the extra nugget of info-at-a-glance provided by star ratings.

Route descriptions: In this guidebook, route descriptions aim to give you a feel for a route without giving away specific beta or spoiling your onsight. Disagree with something? Share your feedback on climbkalymnos.com’s route database (QR code above).

Opposite Part of the rock escarpment above Masouri and Armeos housing some of the island’s most important crags.

Lorraine Ciccarelli

Climbing

How many quickdraws?

20m route: 10–12 quickdraws

30m route: 15–17 quickdraws

40m route: 20–22 quickdraws

Gear

To enjoy the best of Kalymnos safely, bring more gear than you think you need. In this guidebook, the length of each route is approximate, and we do not list an exact number of bolts for each route. So always tie a knot at the end of your rope, check the route length, and make sure to bring enough quickdraws. For routes on stalactites, use medium to long quickdraws. For monster pitches at Grande Grotta

and Sikati Cave, you will also need 5–7 long slings for directing your rope around the tufas and stalactites.

Quickdraws: Generally, there is one quickdraw every two meters. If possible, bring 30 or 40 quickdraws. You can enjoy countless extra-long pitches, with the added flexibility of leaving quickdraws on a project and still having free ones to use on another route.

Locking carabiners and slings: For setting up toprope anchors (and on rare occasion for re-threading closed-ring anchors).

Rope: 70m standard single rope at minimum. This is the standard minimum length for Kalymnos (9–10.5mm diameter). However, many remarkable routes (40m–55m) have been bolted on Kalymnos more recently. Using an 80m rope (or longer) on Kalymnos is strongly recommended.

Lorraine Ciccarelli

Below

Use your own gear at the anchors to save them from the wear and tear caused by excessive use (quickdraw or locking carabiner, as shown at right). Only the last person in your climbing party to lead a route gets to clip the anchor directly.

Anchors

One of the trademarks of Kalymnos equipping is that most anchors have fixed clippable carabiners instead of closed rings. This is done for both convenience and safety. (The only fatal accident in the history of Kalymnos climbing happened while re-threading a closed-ring anchor.) As a result, though, a different problem has emerged: repeat friction caused by people’s ropes lowering and top-roping directly from the permanent gear causes an alarming groove in the stainless-steel carabiners. There’s a simple fix: Use your own gear for lowering and top-roping. Yet, despite endless requests in all previous guidebooks and at the crag, many climbers either choose to ignore us, or simply don’t understand what to do.

Use your own gear to lower and set up top-ropes At least one person in every climbing party should know how to use their own gear for lowering and/

or rigging an anchor for top-roping. As with most best practices, it is common sense: when leading a route, clip one of your own quickdraws (or a locking carabiner) at the anchor, and lower from that. The last person in your group to climb that route is the only person who gets to lower from the fixed carabiner.

Likewise, when top-roping, the anchor should be set up using your own gear. The last person in your group to top-rope that route is the only person who gets to lower from the fixed carabiner (after tethering to the anchor, clipping the rope through the fixed carabiner, and removing their own gear).

If you have no idea what we are talking about, you are not ready to climb outdoors (at a foreign island destination, no less). Stop reading now, and go to the back section of this book, where you can book a local climbing guide to teach you the basics of climbing.

cleaning the quickdraws from very steep pitches

four key points of the partner check

• Rope is installed in the proper direction (belay device function check)

• Carabiner is connected to the correct place on the harness

• Carabiner is locked

• Harness waistbelt is above the hips

• Harness is adjusted to fit snugly

• Tied in to the right place on the harness

• Correct knot is used

• Knot is finished and tightened

• Knot tied at the end of the rope

pre-clipped first draw, partner check: all excellent habits.

Cleaning the quickdraws from very steep pitches

Cleaning your draws from very steep pitches is not easy, and pendulums swings near the ground increase the risk of injury if proper technique is not used by both climber and belayer.

Once you start to lower from the anchor, use the “cable car” technique (clip a quickdraw to your harness and connect it to the belayer’s side of the rope) to stay close to the rock and remove your draws. As you get close to the ground, do not unclip the first quickdraw. Stay clipped into the belayer’s side of the rope until you reach the ground, then remove the 1st quickdraw from the ground (you may have to re-climb the first few moves). The first bolts at some crags with steep overhangs (i.e. Sikati Cave, Secret Garden, Utopia, Rock n Roll Cave, Iannis) are placed very close to the ground for this exact reason.

Alternatively, before cleaning the first draw, unclip the cable car quickdraw, allow your belayer to get ready, then make sure there is no obstacle before swinging. For more tech tips, scan QR code above.

Partner check

Do this every time you and your climbing partner prepare to start climbing a pitch. The four key areas to check are your belay system setup; proper fit and adjustment of each partner’s harness; the knot on the harness; and the knot at the end of the rope.

The most common cause of climbing accidents on Kalymnos is running out of rope for failure to tie a knot at the end of it. A one-minute partner check before each climb would prevent all such accidents.

Mountain rescue

Rescue services at this writing are the responsibility of the local Fire Department. Mountain rescue is performed by local firemen with the help of the volunteer Kalymnos rescue team. Go to the back flap of this book for instructions on what to do in case of an accident.

More climbing tips from PETZL Below Helmets,

Photo: Lorraine Ciccarelli

Access Kalymnos and hundreds of other locally authored climbing guides from the comfort of your smartphone.

Download the Vertical-Life app and unlock Kalymnos area with a code (see page 1). Navigate

Styx is an enormous rocky crescent directly above Emporios village. This is the quietest, most peaceful part of the island. Sector Styx includes four subsectors: Olive, Styx Main, François Guillot, and Emporios Portal

Climbing

On good but sharp grey walls. Several good mid-grade routes and tranquil surroundings.

Conditions

Warm, sunny, and protected from the north wind. Best for climbing on cold days.

Shade (Exposure: S)

Until 10:00 or 11:00 at most parts of the crag, except François Guillot, which stays in the shade until 12:30.

Kids

The approach is not easy, but there are some suitable areas near the cliffs.

Approach (Walking time: 20 minutes)

From Masouri, drive to Emporios (allow 20-25 minutes for the drive). Before the final leftward turn down to the beach, turn right. You will see a big concrete wall which is built to prevent flooding. Park there, in front of the wall (37.049504, 26.930572). To the right of the wall is a small gate. Go through the gate and make sure to close it again behind you. Follow an uphill path with red waymarks and faint tracks. At the foot of the cliffs, traverse right or left to your sub-sector of choice.

Opposite Christine Remy on NISSIM 6b+ (p. 40).

Photo: Claude Remy

Crag parking

PARKING

EMPORIOS VILLAGE

KREISSAAL

KASTRI SOPHIE APP ONLY

Main François Guillot

Emporios Portal

STYX Olive

Styx Main (left)

shade

Until 10:00

Styx Main is a long stretch of pocketed grey wall or slightly overhanging red rock. There are some long, more demanding climbs in the middle. On the right, there is a short vertical wall with good mid-grade routes, plus a small cave with a handful of climbs on good, unusual red rock.

TÖ NERNER KRUG 3★ 6a 22m

Photogenic arête up sustained jugs and flakes. 2008

STRING SECRET 2★ 6b 20m

Technical bridging on the obvious red corner.

B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

KILLBIT

2★ 6c 20m

Athletic moves on jugs and a tufa. Shares 2nd half with STRING SECRET. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

PRALINE 3★ 6b+ 18m

Excellent red rock with spaced pockets and slots. B + C Arnold 2006

ZUGABE 3★ 6b 20m

Interesting sustained climbing on good holds. B + C Arnold 2006

EFTHIMIA

2★ 7a 22m

Varied wall climbing. T Michaelides 2021

GOLDEN TOP

1★ 6a+ 22m

The wall with good holds. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

LITLOST

2★ 6b 20m

Wall and bulges with good but sharp holds.

B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

PAULINA

1★ 6c 20m

Wall, overhang, 2-mono crux, and sharp rock. 2007

LENE

2★ 6b 25m

Wall climb on small holds. C Heinicke, A + C Riemer 2009

JOHANNA 1★ 6a 20m

Technical wall climbing. 2008

STACHET SCHWEIN 0★ 6a+ 20m

Uninspiring, poor climb on a wall and slab. 2008

BUNKER 2★ 6a+ 25m

Wall, slab, and juggy overhang. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

THE DEAL 3★ 6b+ 31m

A fine, long pocketed climb on a slab, wall, and small overhang. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

TEAM NO WERK 3★ 6c 31m

A technical and sustained yellow compact wall.

B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

NISSIM 3★ 6b+ 25m

The wall and overhang. Gain the ledge at the bottom from the left. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

NISSIM EXT 3★ 6c 33m

Steep and well-bolted wall with pleasant climbing on jugs and pockets. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

BOLESKINE HOUSE 2★ 6b+ 28m

Interesting adventurous terrain, mostly on good holds. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

BOLESKINE HOUSE EXT 3★ 7a 36m

Sustained extension on an overhang and tufas.

B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

ZOLOTAS 2★ 6b 28m

Again, nice but sharp wall climbing.

B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

ZOLOTAS EXT 2★ 7a 36m

Steep climbing on good holds. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2009

SILBERMOND 1★ 6c 25m

Sharp with an athletic 2nd part. F Heinicke, A Riemer 2008

INNUENDO 2★ 6c 25m

Fun climbing on a pocketed wall and overhang with small tufas. G Buchs, P Gobet 2005

WAITING FOR THE SPRING 2★ 6b 22m

The red groove leads to a compact wall and overhang. G Buchs, P Gobet 2005

LENINGRAD COWBOYS GO TO... 1★ 6b 22m

...Kalymnos. A wall with horizontal cracks but an alpine feeling due to vegetation. G Buchs, P Gobet 2005

FOR KIDS

A very well-bolted mini pillar. 2006

3★ 4a 20m

THERMOS 2★ 4c 15m

An easy route up the photogenic ridge. C + Y Remy 2003

ROOM 13 2★ 7b 18m

After an expo start, a rest in the cave and an awkward crimpy exit at the roof. Prepare to fight!

M Schmed + team 1999

HAMMER 2★ 7b 16m

A photogenic route on a delicate slab followed by bouldery moves in an overhanging bridging corner.

F + J Friedrich 2015

THE ROOF IS ON FIRE 2★ 7a 18m

Traverses right at the overhang. Some hard clips, easier with draws in place. S Piskurek, M Wiesenforth 1999

BALLROOM 1★ 5c 18m

A greasy slab leads to a groove and a big cave. Hard to clip the chain on the roof! Clean the draws by top-roping. M Schmed + team 1999

MIA’S PLACE 2★ 6b 25m

An island classic...but greasy! The orange slab leads to a steep groove. Can you bridge? Fun final section on big but far-apart pockets and flakes.

M Schmed + team 1999

KING SUITE 2★ 7a+ 25m

A bouldery start with complex sequences and poor feet leads to fun pocket pulling. M Schmed + team 1999

BALCONY 2★ 6c 25m

A super-technical early crux, then easier on good but sharp hidden pockets. M Schmed + team 1999

GRAUE HIRSCHE 0★ 5a 20m

A grey slab 50m up and to the right of BALCONY.

J Friedrich, G Hommel 2006

GREEN BOYS 1★ 6b 30m

An easy start leads to a good section with small holds before the anchor. J Friedrich, G Hommel 2006

Below

Susan reaching for the stars on THE ROOF IS ON FIRE 7a.

Photo: Andrea Bachstadt

The call of Kalymnos

“It’s a scooter ride over a windy mountain pass. It’s the local delicacy tucked behind the eggs at the mini-super, or the smiling faces welcoming you into your new favorite restaurant...”

jim thornburg

Galatianí Left Wall

Below

Swedish mountain guide Mattias Erlandsson (1972–2023) on KROTERIH 7b (p. 154). Dan Patitucci, photographer and friend of Mattias, writes in a heartfelt tribute: “Of all the many places where Mattias was happy, Kalymnos was his favorite. All year, with the delighted smile of a little boy, he would look forward to returning to the peace and warmth of his beloved island after many months of guiding in the cold mountains...how gleeful he would be to see his picture in this guidebook...Kalo taxidi, Mattias.”

BELLA 2★ 4b+ 25m

Up the low angle slab. K + R + M Ochsner 2003

VEROS 2★ 4a 20m

Another easy slabby route. K + R + M Ochsner 2003

SUNRIDER

1★ 6b+ 33m

Nice moves, but sharp and tricky. K + R + M Ochsner 2003

CRISPY 2★ 6c+ 35m

A technical, sustained wall climb on good holds, pinches, slopers, and crimps. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2006

LUSTZAPFEN 2★ 7a 30m

Good technical climbing, but doesn’t get enough traffic. K + R + M Ochsner 2003

WENDENEXPRESS 3★ 7a 135m

Multi-pitch, 5 pitches, 6b+ obligatory (P1 6c+ 35m, P2 7a 30m, P3 6a 20m, P4 6c 30m, P5 6a 20m). 2 x 50m ropes recommended. Return: Abseil x 5 from the same route. Bring extra slings to leave at the anchors. Possible with a single 80m rope, also. A bold, demanding route with an alpine feel. Bolting not “Kalymnos style”. K Ochsner, F Meier, D Croth 2002

GRIP 3★ 7b 35m

Excellent and varied climbing on pockets and tufas. B Girardin, C + Y Remy 2006

Photo: Patitucci Photo

Belgian Chocolates

Belgian Chocolates is a gorgeously smooth grey slab rising to 120m and featuring outstanding single- and multi-pitch routes at sub-sectors Dalle à Patouche and Fotisi Wall

Climbing

Among the finest slabby climbing on the island, on immaculate, top-quality grey limestone full of water pockets and chickenheads. Dalle à Patouche features excellent face climbing on easy-angled walls, as well as some steep and dynamic routes on the left.

Fotisi Wall, in turn, features some of the best compact smooth grey limestone on Kalymnos, offering airy, delicate, and technical moves on off-vertical walls and slabs.

Conditions

Hot. Good for climbing in cool or cloudy conditions. Perfect on sunny winter days.

Shade (Exposure: SE)

Only in the morning, until 11:00.

Kids

So-so at Fotisi Wall (space is limited). Not good at Dalle à Patouche.

Approach (Walking time: 15–18 minutes)

From Masouri, drive to Arginonta. Pass the last houses, and park on the right-hand side of the road, 200m past petra homes, at the same parking spot as for sector Arhi (37.020072, 26.964530). Walk up the very obvious path. When it splits, take the left branch. Traverse past the routes of Arhi Left, then continue leftwards as shown above.

Crag parking

Opposite

Climbing guide Tania Matsuka on the standout second pitch of MIKA 6b (p. 178). Photo: Heinz Zak

Dalle à Patouche

NOUFARO

BELGIAN CHOCOLATES

Fotisi Wall

ARHI

PARKING

Coming full circle

By Kieran Duncan

My Kalymnos story started in 2014 when I arrived on the island with three friends, a cheap DSLR camera, and a complete lack of experience. Since then, I’ve been here almost every year and have fallen in love with the island, its people, and of course, the climbing. I feel incredibly privileged to share my story in the local guidebook, and I hope it inspires others to embrace everything Kalymnos and its people have to offer.

We chose Kalymnos after browsing through a friend’s battered copy of the 2010 guidebook at a party. Looking at the photographs of the immense limestone crags, we decided to forgo a grey, wet spring in Scotland. This was probably the best beer-fuelled decision I’ve made in my life.

I was already interested in amateur photography and climbing, but never had the chance to combine both interests until this trip. My plan was to capture as many photos and videos as I could to edit into a short film. I had no real ambition beyond experimenting with my camera and exploring a new place. It’s only in the present that you realise these small moments of spontaneity are the ones that change your life.

We had two weeks of sun, sea, sending, and shooting. I expected to enjoy the climbing and the cocktails, but was pleasantly surprised at how much we connected with the local people. The warmth and enthusiasm they had for us was remarkable, and a real highlight of the trip. Over the years, like many regulars, I’ve cultivated a growing collection of stories highlighting the kindness and generosity on offer. From helping us fix a busted moped in return for a delivery of scotch whisky, to a shop owner hand-knitting me a woollen hat during a cold snap, or simply an occasional free coffee and heartwarming chat about life, travel, philosophy, and everything in between—this is the spirit of Kalymnos.

I returned to Scotland with three friends, a cheap DSLR camera, and a 500GB hard drive packed with photos and videos. Time to get editing.

Two months of toiling later, I exported a video just under four minutes long and prepared to upload it to Vimeo and share with the world. I’d spent many long nights refining hours worth of footage of four pale and goofy Scottish guys into a slick, fun edit. Unfortunately I made the ultimate rookie mistake: I used a copyrighted music track which was instantly flagged.

I tried in vain to claim it as fair use under the copyright act, but knew I was clutching at straws. Stuart at Vimeo Support knew exactly what I was up to. I’d spent the bulk of my time fine-tuning the edit to work perfectly with the music track, and changing it wasn’t an option without starting from the very beginning. I wasn’t keen on that, so I contacted the copyright holders: a couple of small indie startup companies called Warner Bros and Universal Music.

Needless to say, the cost they gave me was astronomical, and there was no way my part-time job at the local climbing wall could fund that. In desperation, I started seeking funding or sponsorship to help pay for the music, and sent an email to climb@climbkalymnos.com.

Katie and Aris responded immediately to tell me they absolutely loved the video, and in true Kalymnos fashion they were keen to help out in any way they could. They offered to pay a substantial amount themselves, and contacted local businesses who could also sponsor the video. I was incredibly grateful for their generosity and eagerness.

With a renewed enthusiasm, I was able to successfully negotiate with the music licensing behemoths, and actually got the fee massively reduced

to a much more manageable one. I ended up paying this myself, but now had the huge added benefit of local Kalymnos support behind the project.

When I finally uploaded the video, the reception was fantastic. It was published on the Climb Kalymnos website, and local people and businesses shared it on

social media, all of which drove tens of thousands of viewers to my work. This simple act of support started a real shift in my career, if you could even call it a career at that stage. I found myself being contacted by clients who actually wanted to pay me to shoot for them.

Since then I’ve been lucky enough to work across Greece and elsewhere in Europe, shooting for brands, magazines, guidebooks, and some of the world’s top professional climbers. I’ve returned to Kalymnos almost every year (2020/21 don’t count, right?) and am thrilled to continue working here, getting to know the island and my friends better than ever. I’m also excited to now be doing climbing photography workshops in Kalymnos, sharing my experience with other climbers who are keen to explore their own photography beyond iPhone butt shots quickly snapped while belaying.

Most importantly however, I’m very proud to return the favour to Katie and Aris by shooting

updated images for this fantastic guidebook! After being inspired to visit Kalymnos by the 2010 guide, there’s a real sense of coming full circle to now be directly contributing to the latest edition. I’ve greatly benefited from the continued support of the Kalymnos climbing community and it’s a privilege to now play a small part within this book, which serves such a crucial role in the entire local climbing ecosystem. I think the main takeaway from my experience is that the community in Kalymnos is what makes it so special. The island has a fascinating culture and history far beyond the stunning limestone tufas of the Grande Grotta. The passion of the Kalymnian people is enriching, and they are often keen to share that with visiting climbers. I’d encourage everybody who comes to this fantastic island to embrace that.

You never know where it might take you.

The Kalymnos video that started everything

MASSALIA

3★ 6b+ 100m

A classic multi-pitch, 4 pitches (P1 6b+ 25m, P2 5c 25m, P3 5c 25m, P4 5c 25m). P1: Very technical, needs good footwork. Climbing quality improves as you go up to the arch. Views are stunning. Return A: abseil from Grande Grotta (1x80m, 2x80m ropes obligatory). Return B: abseil from sector Panorama (2x35m, walk 150m right, 70m rope is ok). Stopper knot at the end of your rope!! O Didon, G Abert, L Catsoyannis, P Pezzini 2001

ZENITH 3★ 8c 40m

A superb line on the cave’s smooth outer wall. First RP by Alex Honnold (2011), who says: “A pretty cool route that feels like a big wall up top. Airy and awesome.” S Montmory 2011

AEGIALIS 3★ 7c 30m

A mega-classic stamina monster. Surprisingly easy (technically) but hard at the same time. One of the most photographed sport routes on the planet!

G Kopalides, Y Torelli 1998

KOPALIZATION

3★ 8a+ 55m

Céüse-style with long traverses. G Kopalides, C Daniil 2007

KOPALIZATION EXTRA 3★ 8b+ 65m

A bouldery headwall. G Kopalides, 2014

ZAWINUL SYNDICATE 3★ 7c+ 30m

A massive journey on impressive terrain with some “pushy” moves but good, obvious hands-off rests, too. For less rope drag unclip 1st bolt. M Troussier 2002

APHRODITE 1★ 7a+ 12m

Short but tough. After the hard, reachy crux, a jug parade. F Amann, H Erber 2001

DNA 3★ 7a 20m

Not very long, but the real thing! Serious training on steep indoor walls is good preparation. Holds are quite big, but there’s still a strong possibility for lactic forearms. T Michaelides, A Theodoropoulos 2001

DNA EXT 3★ 8a+ 50m

Another monster pitch. A wild sideways sequence off a tufa at mid-height leads to a tricky runout exit to the anchor. L Triay, G Fanguin, A Cherbonnier 2004

IVI OL É 3★ 7b+ 20m

A 2-bolt direct variation of IVI featuring a fun dyno off crappy holds to the big hole. G Kopalides 2014

IVI 3★ 7a+ 20m

An excellent and interesting primer for gaining confidence in this sector. 2002

PRIAPOS 3★ 7c 35m

A 3D stalactite fest from another planet with constant rests if you mount the huge stalactites in the middle of the cave. But he sections between rests are no joke. Rest well, then give it your all and go for the onsight. Y Ghesquiers, P Pellet 2001

SUPER PRIAPOS 3★ 8a 55m

A tremendous extension. An expedition rather than a rock climb! An incredible 55m in one pitch with 25 QDs. See “recommended technique” on previous page. Y Ghesquiers, P Pellet 2001

FUN DE CHICHUNNE 3★ 8a 40m

Everything that is great about Grande Grotta: a mammoth overhanging adventure through 40m of psychedelic tufa roof! 28 QDs and tons of energy needed. O Didon, G Abert, L Catsoyannis, P Pezzini 2001

Attention

There is always the risk of breaking stalactites and/or rock fall in the cave. Never sit, stand, or walk under climbers in the cave. When belaying, it is best to stand near the base of the route with your back against the wall.

Route Index

ABERT PROJECT 334

ABONEROS EL CHILLI 572

ABOUT THYME 247

A BOY NAMED SIOUX 165

ABRAZIS 66

ABRAZOS 66

ABSENT FRIENDS 129

ABYSSOS 86

A.C. D’ESSAIS 133

ACHILLES 130

ACHILLES EXT 130

ACHILLES’ HEEL 102

ACHINOS 80

ACON69CAGVA 274

ACT 459

ADAM 68

ADDICTOVID 143

AD-HOC 260

ADIEU LES CONS 378

ADINI 66

ADIOS CHLOÉ 571

ADOLF IN THE BAY 418

ADOLF IN THE BAY EXT 418

ADOLFLAHAUT 84

ADONIBERT 236

ADONIS 186

ADONIS EXT 1 186

ADONIS EXT 2 186

ADONIS TELENDOS 556

AEGEAN SEA 391

AEGENA 572

AEGIALIS 384

AEOLIA 391

AEOLIA EXT 391

AERAS 214

AFRODIANE 481

AFRODITE 103

AFTERSHAVE 472

AGAMEMNON 349

AGATHONISI 126

AGELICA BABIS BAR 570

AGELOS 291

AGGELIKI 546

AGIOS PETROS & PAVLOS 92

AGIOS SAVAS 93

AGNODICE 102

AGOPUNTURA 429

AGRIMI 272

AHTARMAS 254

AJAX 346

A KAPELLA 296

A KIM TALON 490

ALADDIN SANE 424

ALANI 254

ALBA 196

ALBATROS 450, 452

ALBERTO DUBITO 480

ALBI BAK 238

ALCEO 427

ALCINOO 326

ALCMAN 427

ALCYONE 175

ALCYONE 253

ALERIA 252

ALEX 488

ALEXIS ZORBAS 365

ALFA 146

ALFA 427

ALFREDO ALFREDO 324

ALISFAKIA 546

ALISFAKIA EXT 546

ALISIO 434

ALIZE 434

ALLEZ GROS 448

ALL OR NOTHING 501

A L'OVEST DI KABOUL 571

ALPHA 338

ALPHA B 338

ALPHA C 338

ALPINE-EXPERIENCE 512

ALSACE 428

ALTAR BOY 328

ALWAYS 519

ALWAYS EVERYDAY 520

ALWAYS HERE 573

ALZHEIMER 110

AM ABGRUNG 402

AMADOU 135

AMAZONA 174

AMÉDÉ THE STUIKERSPIN 169

AMELIA 102

AMIE 248

AMITA 472

AMMOHOSTOS

VASILEVOUSA 277

AMMOS 276

À MON ÉTOILE 481

AMORES PERROS 571

AMPHORA 321

AMRA 442

AMYTHOS 418

ANACREONTE 427

ANAKIN 222

ANAL+ 154

ANAPHYLACTIC SHOCK 402

ANARCHY 530

ANARRIHISI 478

ANASTASIA 564

ANATOLI 58

ANAZITISI 244

ANDO DROM 274

ANDREA 61

ANDROMEDA 318

ANDROS 44

ANDROSAGE 496

ANEMODARMENI 463

ANEMONE 506

ANEMOS 58

ANEMOS 432

ANGELIKA 192

ANGELS ONE-FIVE 438

ANGIS SINGING 91

ANGLE WINGS 312

ANGRY BIRDS 275

ANITA 354

ANNA 277, 485

ANNA-MARIA 234

ANNE 273

ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE 344

AN SOLO 222

ANTARCTIC 479

ANTARCTIC EXT 479

ANTHI 144

ANTIFA 442

ANTILOHOS 350

ANTINEA 134

ANTIO FILE 573

ANTONELLA 44

ANTONIS LAMPOS 275

ANTRAX 184

ANTRAX EXT 184

ANVEDI 230

ANYTHING 520

APACHE CODE 165

APACHE NOW! 165

APACHE PATH 219

APAGOREVMENO ONIRO 567

APERO 146

APHRODISIA 366

APHRODITE 384, 556, 562

APOCALYPSE 84

APOCRYPHA 92

APOLLO 355

APOLLO’S MIRACLE 76

APOPLOUS 184

APPLE 485

AQUARELLA 458

AQUILA 39

ARA 90

ARABIATA 528

ARABIATA EXT 1 528

ARABIATA EXT 2 528

ARAGORN 143

ARAMIS 58

ARAPAHOHO 166

ARATUS 378

ARBZUG 576

ARCHILOQUE 427

ARCHIMEDES 349

ARCHIVE 258

ARENA 365

ARES 366

ARGINONTA BEACH 210

ARGINONTA BEACH EXT 210

ARGO 324

ARGONAUTI 188

ARGONAUTI EXT 1 188

ARGONAUTI EXT 2 188

ARGO NAVIS 324

ARHAGGELOS 196

ARHAT 263

ARIANNA 195

ARI COVER 454

ARI GATO 186

ARI GATO EXT 186

ARION 252

ARISTOCRATS 232

ARISTOS 196

ARI SUPERDOG 318

ARKI 126

ARKI EXT 126

ARMATA SIKATI 70

ARMATA SIKATI EXT 70

ARNEIS 205

ARNO 394

AROLEID 576

AROMA 58, 175

A ROOM WITH A VIEW 395

A ROUTE WITH A VIEW 272

ARTEMIS 355

ARTEMISIUM 271

ARTHUR 402

ART IN THE AIR 206

ARUGLIOPOULOS 317

ASCHE ZU ASCHE 238

ASCLEPIUS 378

ASINO 228

ASKISI 309

A SPACE IN TIME 416

ASTERIAS 276

ASTONISHED 502

ASTRAPOYANNOS 338

ASTREE 364

ASTYPALEA 553

ATAOLAA 295

ATE 214

ATENA 326

À TES SOUHAITS 421

ATHINA 326, 348, 395

A TIGHT SQUEEZE 295

ATLANTIDE 134

ATLANTIS 360

ATRAEUS 58

ATROPOS (KEEP SMILING) 43

ATTACHE MOI 168

ATTENTAT AU PRUSIK 134

ATTIKI 402

ATTITUDE 418

ATTITUDE EXT 418

AU REVOIR 132

AU REVOIR LÀ HAUT 378

AU REVOIR LÀ HAUT EXT 378

AURORA 410

AURORA (PART 1) 410

AURORA (PART 2) 410

AUSFARTE 246

AVE 490

AVIS 581

AVRA 409

AVRI 238

AXA 442

AXE 184

AXEL 61, 571

AXIUM 131

AYPA 402

AZUL 423

AZUL EXT 423 B

B2 154

B69 66

BABATANGI 354

BABELE 39

BABIS 212

BA BONUS 520

BABY 473

BAD BREAK 92

BADEN MIT UND OHNE 96

BAGLAMAS 81

BAKLAVA MANIAC 290

BAKUS 90

BALAKLAVA 66

BALCONY 62

BALDWIN 130

BALGA 454

BALI BALO 129

BALLA LINDA 505

BALLROOM 62

BALOO 309

BALOS 84

BALTI 229

BAMBOLA BLUE 296

BANANA PARTY 123

BANCROCHE 260

BANG BANG 291

BANG BANG 520

BARABUK 567

BAR BAR 420

BARBARA 578

BARBARA 192

BARBAROSSA 538

BARBA YORGHOS 234

BARBOUNI 288

BATSI MAKRIA MAS 201

BATTLE CRY 519

BATTLE OF BRITAIN 438

BAU BAU 472

BAY 94

BAYAMO 434

BAY WATCH 94

B.B. 476

BB (BERNARD BOLLIGER) 229

BEACH HOUSE 444

BEASLEY STREET 517

BEAUTIFUL HELEN 350

B.E.B. 300

BEE CAREFUL 246

BEE GROOVY 246

BEE MALONE 246

BEE READY 246

BEE SHARP 246

BEE STIFF 246

BEE SWIFT 246

FILOU 245

FINALLY IT’S NOT 7A 272

FINDUS 96

FINGER PIERCING 376

FINGERPULL 97

FIOCA 245

FIONA 214

FIRE WALL 238

FIS 171

FISCHI 147

FIVE TENA LADY 520

FIX 39

FLAG 445

FLAUSCHI 578

FLIPPER 91, 289

FLOCKI 254

FLORENCE 102

FLORIANOPOULOS 144

FLYING DOCTOR 230

FLYING DUTCHMAN 581

FLYING FISH 77

FLYING SALAD 460

FLYING SALAD LEFT 460

FOCUS 154

FOLLY 341

FORGETFUL BOLTER 137

FORGETFUL BOLTER EXT 137

FOR KIDS 40

FORRESTER 217

FOR SUE 51

FOR SUE AND STEVE 236

FOR VIP 291

FORZA 99 571

FOSSILES 219

FOSSIL WALL 359

FOTINI 273

FOUNTAGIO 212

FOURNI 126

FOURTOUNA 322

FOUR YEARS 76

FOUSKA 324

FOXY LADY 545

FRACASO 199

FRAGMENT 409

FRANCALYPSO 334

FRAN-FRAN 410

FRAPOGALO 84

FRED 272

FREE BIRD 160

FREE STYLE 234

FREEWILL 44

FRENCH CONNECTION 304

FRENCH KISS 197

FRIC-FRAC 180

FRIEDA 61

FRIENDS 276

FROMAGE 537

FUDOSHIN 372

FUGA DA GUY 403

FULL JOB 82

FULL WINGSPAN 359

GAIDAROS 228

GAIUS JULIUS KATZE 103

GALASIA PETRA 339

GALI-GALI 180

GALOPOULA 191

GALOPOULA EXT 191

GALUP 300

GAMBETTES 147

GAMBIT 147

GAME 157

GAME BOYS 485

GAME CHANGERS 524

GAME OVER 54

GANESHA 263

GANYMEDE 430

GARBULLI 173

GAST 454

GASTECLOU 260

GASTLOSENLIS 51

GAZ PAS CHAUD 443

G.D. GAZ 448

GÉBOBO LÀ 557

GECKO’S TEAM 173

GEFAEHRLICHE BRANDUNG 294

GEGOUNE 154

GEISSEN SCHNUCKI 364

GELITOKIT 541

GELLERETLLI 121

GENERAL 576

GENESIS 93

GENISTA 309

GEORGE LIVANOS 477

GEORGE'S 581

GERAKI 546

GERÖLLHEIMER 308

GERONIMO 549

GERWITSCHT 576

GET A GRIP 293

GETTING HAMMERED 441

GET UP 274

GHECKO’S HOME 295

GHOST RIDER 130

GICKELHAHN 61

GIKAS 293

GIMMIX 517

GINETTE 450

GINSENG 112

GIORGIO DE LA JUNGLE 192

GIORGIO DE LA JUNGLE EXT 192

GIULIANA 334

GLADIATOR 366

GLAROS 212, 567

GLAROS BAR 171

GLOBUS 129

GLOUBI BOULGA 496

GLUECK IM UNGLUECK 352

GLÜEWIH DELÜX 510

GLYKA MANIAC 352

GOATFATHER 180

GOLDEN EYE 144

GOLDEN ORIOLE 410

GOLDEN TOP 40

GOLD OF INCAS 219

GONGOLO 404

GONTRAN 265

GOOD GRIP 168

GORA GUTA GUTARAK 320

GOTTA 263

GOTTI 54

GOURMET 465

GOUSSINAIR 263

GOUTER 485

GRAND PA 173

GRAUE HIRSCHE 62

GRAUE ZONE 210

GRAVITY GAME 136

GRAZIE ALLA VITA 178

GREAT ALBERT 163

GREAT ALBERT EXT 163

GREEK FREAK 103

GREEK SALAD 467

GREEK SALAD EXT 467

GREEK STALLION 163

GREEK WEDDING 163

GREEN BOYS 62

GREGALE 432

GREMLIN HANNAH 512

GRENZPFEILER 459

GRESIVAUDAN 539

GREUNDZO 254

GREY CHILLI 143

GRIFFIG GOES TO KALYMNOS 512

GRIFFOLOGY 512

GRIFFON 438

GRIGNA 254

GRIGNOTTE 178

GRIM 280

GRIM EXT 280

GRIP 153

GROGNON 557

GROLARAMA 460

GRUA 163

GRUEFFELO 445

GRÜNE FEIGEN 198

GRUSELINO 294

GRUVIERA 106

GRUVIERA 546

GUEST DJ 372

GUILLOT CORNER 44

GUILLOT CORNER EXT 44

GUINEA PIG 58

GÜNESLI KIZ 294

GUNPOWDER PLOT 401

GUNPOWDER PLOT EXT 401

GWUNDERNASE 392

GYZIS 293

H

HANETTI 93

HANNAH 445

HANSI-MANSI 440

HANTSCH 302

HAPPINESS 402

HAPPINESS EXT 402

HAPPY BIRTHDAY 340

HAPPY BOYFRIEND 70

HAPPY GIRLFRIEND 386

HAPPY WIFE 423

HARA KIRI 133

HARAKIRI 366

HARALAMPOS 458

HARAMISS 54

HARAMISS EXT 54

HARDCORE WILL NEVER

DIE 280

HARD PRIMAL 238

HARLEM NIGHTS 372

HARMONIE 43

HARNISCH 170

HARRY BOLTER 174

HARRY BOSCH 352

HARRY BOSCH EXT 352

HARRY HOLE 423

HARRY HOLE (1ST PART) 423

HARRY PARTERRE 188

HARRY POTTER 553

HARRY ZONA 378

HARRY ZONA EXT 378

HARYVDI 324

HASAPIKO 564

HATATITLA 218

HAUNTED CASTLE 128

HAUSFREUND 60

HAUSTÜR 60

HAUTE PIERRE 121

HAWK 304

HAZOULI 206

HAZOULI EXT 206

HEATHER 566

HEDGEHOG 58

HEFAISTOS 430

HEIDRUN 528

HEIDRUN EXT 528

HELENE THE TEACHER 539

HELIOS 305

HELLAS 214

HELLAS EXT 214

HELLAS RODEO 340

HELLENI 108

HELL EST NIQUE 395

HELLO? 191

HELLO BABY YOYO 61

HELL YEAH! 166

HELPLESS 547

HELVETES UNDERGROUND 135

HELVETIX 562

HERA 113, 214

HERACLES 101

HIBISCUS MARKET

PART 1 372

HIDDEN BEAUTY 503

HIGHLIGHT 248

HIGHWAY TO HELL 424

HI GOAT 58

HILDE 61

HIP HIP HIP 420

HIPPOCRATES 254

HIPPOLYTA’S BELT 370

HIPPONAS 427

HIRO 90

HOCLA 294

HOGO FOGO 340

HOI FREDDY 441

HOLE IN ONE 450

HOLLENFIEBER 563

HOLLOW MAN 196

HOLLYWOOD WAX 370

HOMER ALONE 344

HOMER VISION 346

HOMO SAPIENS 464

HONEY BALL 273

HONGROIS REVE 275

HOOK 494

HOPE 94

HO PERSO LA BUSSOLA 173

HOPPER 145

HOPPID 525

HOPPLA 511

HOPS DÉDÉ 489

HORNET 246

HORNETS-A-GO-GO 519

HOT CHILI 576

HOT CHILI YOUNG LOVE 576

HOTEL SIMI 576

HOTEL SIMI BASEMENT 576

HOT FUEL 409

HOT POTATOES 376

HOT ROC 570

HOT SHOT 232

HOUFTASAURUS 360

HOURA 420

HOUR OF GHOSTS 128

HOWL LALA 479

HUGOX 400

HUNI MONSTER 246

HUNTER KILLER 520

HURRICANE 435

HYDRA 113

HYDRIA 479

HYMA STO KYMA 317

HYPE 409

HYPER 86

I

FUN 459

FUNATIKER 305

FUN DE CHICHUNNE 384

FÜR BETTA 157

G

GABOU 454

GAGA 226

GAIA 324

GOAT MEMORIAL 75

GOCCE 180

GOD IS A POGO PRINCESS 525

GOD IS LEMMY 232

GO FOR THE POCKET 92

GOING NOWHERE FAST 501

GOING WEST 530

GOLDEN EAGLE 334

GOLDEN EAGLE EASIER 334

HADES 42

HADES 548

HAKUNA MATATA 497

HAKUNA MATATA EXT 497

HALARA 271

HALF JOB 82

HALKI 126

HAMMER 62

HANC, HANC EXT 111

HANDS OF KALYMNOS 82

HERMES 61

HERMET JE 578

HERO OF THE DAY 242

HERO OF THE DAY EXT 242

HEUREKA 308

HEXENKESSEL 530

HEY BIRDY NAMNAM 195

HEY JOE 545

HIAWATHA 166

HIBISCUS MARKET 372

I ANIKSI 553

IASON 466

IBISCUS 506

IBISCUS MARKET 344

IBRIA 427

ICARE 478

ICARO 194

ICE AGE 360

ICE AGE 304

I-CLIMBER 566

IDÉFIX 262

I DHIAKOPES 553

IDOINE 260

I DON’T WANNA BE NICE 517

TROKRAKHAN 290

TROLL 42

TROLL 528

TROLLGOD 567

TROPFEN 204

TROPPO 429

TROULALÀ 263

TROU PAR TROU 245

TROUS DANS L’AIR 413

TROYA 318

TRYBI 546

TRY ME 289

TRY ME 545

TRYPANI 546

TRYPOPHOBIE 514

TSAROUHIS 293

TSIPOURA 289

TSIPOURO 267

TSOPANAKOS 109, 378

TSOPANAKOS 184

TSOPANAKOS EXT 378

TUEFELI 392

TUFA KING PUMPED 416

TUFANTASTIC 386

TUFA SHOT 520

TUFA SLAB 236

TUFA’S STORY 459

TUOLUMNE KNOBS 120

TUPAC AMARU 320

TURN TO STONE (LEFT) 333

TURN TO STONE (RIGHT) 333

TUTEBATTI 256

TWIN SOULS 525

TWIST 174

TWO TRIBES 166

TWOU D’ABAL 443

TYCHE 109

TYPHOON 581

TYRANT 507

TZATZIKI KAI SOKOLATA 206

TZATZIKI VIKIKI 366

TZITZIKI 137

TZIVAERI 81

U

ULISSE COPERTO DI SALE 326

ULTIMO BUCCO 403

ULYSSE 349

UMMAGUMMA 497

UMMAGUMMA EXT 497

UNCLE BERT 392

UNCLE ERNIE 392

UN CULTE 420

UNDER WISTERIA LANE 290

UN DES 100 443

UN DES 100 EXT 443

UN DON DU CIEL 537

UNFINISHED 205

UNICORN 252

UNIQUE 410

UNIQUE (PART 1) 410

UNIVERSUM 58

UOMO SENZA QUALITÀ 334

UP 392

UPRISING 507

UP WALL 448

URGENT 170

USCHANA 410

USCHANA EXT 410

USE YOUR BRAIN 137

USE YOUR FEET 137

USE YOUR FEET EXT 137

USTER 510

UTAH 178

UTOPIA 210

UTOPIA EXT 210

UTOPIA-RAINBOW 440

UTOPIST 481

VACANZE ROMANE 230

VAGINA 154

VALERY + THOMAS 467

VALHALLA 528

VALLEY OF THE DOLLS 346

VAMOS À SAMOS 553

VANGELIS CONNECTION 364

VAPOUR TRAILS 44

VASILIKI 93

VASILIKI 573

VASILIS 467

VELVET UNDERGROUND 252

VELVET UNDERGROUND EXT 252

VENDETTA 570

VENT D’ ÉTAT 443

VENTILOS 54

VERIKOKO 418

VEROS 153

VERTICAL SAILING TOUR 227

VERTIGO 273

VESPA 581

VESPA 246

VIA VAI 173

VIBRATIONS POSITIVE 336

VIBRATIONS POSITIVE EXT 336

VICKING 280

VICTORIA 236

VIDEO CLIP 119

VIKING FIRE 196

VIKOS 479

VINCENT 135

VISHNOU 263

VITA DA CANI 210

VIVA FIDEL 539

VLASIS HOUSE 273

VOITURE BALAI 400

VOITURE BALAI EXT 400

VOLEZ PETITS 135

VOLTRIC 442

VOLVER 168

VOODOO CHILD 544

VOUROS 163

VOUTIMATA 209

VRBATA 111

VRBATA EXT 111

VROMIKOS 206

VULTURE 275

WASP IT 246

WATER SNAKE 191

WAY OF THE SAMURAI 66

WAY OF THE SCYTHIAN 66

WEISSMATTEN 129

WELCOME TO POPPY’S 519

WELCOME TO THE PLEASURE

DOME 198

WENDENEXPRESS 153

WEST WAY 432

WETTERLLUCHTEN 473

WHALE 305

WHERE ARE MY BOLTS? 76

WHERE IS MARLEY? 528

WHERE IS MY MIND? 391

WHISP 519

WHITE MOUSE 143

WHITE PRINCE 340

WHITE SNAKE 143

WHY NOT 324

WIEZEL 96

WILD COUNTRY 585

WILD HORSES 549

WILD SEX 234

WILD SPORT 430

WILD WEST END 530

WIND CHIME 564

WINDJAMMER 212

WINDY 300

WINGS FOR LIFE 585

WINNETOU 217

WISH YOU WERE HERE 480

WITCH 133, 459

WITCH 530

WOK 112

WOODY 265

WOUNDED KNEE 165

WOW MAN 445

WRESTLING WITH A GOAT 136

WUNDERFITZ 157

WURM 135

XAVERI 231

X. DRIVE 54

XERXES 370

X-OVER 54

XRISOSTOMOS 553

XYMOX 563

YA AGORI MOU 317

Y A AUTRE CHOSE ROGER 111

Y A DE LA POMME 111

YAHURTI ME MELI 295

YAKA 418

YAMAS 340

YAMAS GLOU GLOU 443

YANAP 370

YANG 547

YIN 547

YMER 86

YMIR 528

YOGO BERRIES 485

YORKSHIRE PUDDING 563

YOU CRACK ME UP 541

YOUNG AT HEART 547

YOUPI L’ÉCOLE EST FINIE 191

YO YO 372

YPAKOE 416

Y VIVA PANCHO VILLA! 572

ZACK 400

ZAGORI 418

ZAROS 401

ZAROS EXT 401

ZATZ 256

ZAVARA KATRANEMIA 442

ZAWINUL SYNDICATE 384

ZELLWEGER 514

ZENAIDA 430

ZENITH 384

ZEPHYR 432

ZEPHYROS 260

ZEPHYROS EXT 260

ZERO CHICHON 154

ZERO CHICHON EXT 154

ZE SEEWJNEN 578

ZESTAMA 58

ZEUS 430

ZEUS 334

ZICKE 142

ZICKENSCHULE 458

ZIEGENPETER 364

ZIEGENSTALL 44

ZIEGENSTALL EXT 44

ZIGOUNET ATOMIC 488

ZIO GIO 445

ZIPFELMÜTZE (BOBBLE

HAT) 245

ZIWI 188

ZIZANIE 144

ZOCCHI 60

ZOE 212

ZOEI 352

ZOHAN 528

ZOIDIS 571

ZOLOTAS 40

ZOLOTAS EXT 40

ZORBA 556

ZORBA EL FLACO 350

ZORBA LE GROS 350

ZORBA'S RESTAURANT 572

ZOU ZOU CHENIT 191

ZUAYA 136

ZUGABE 40

ZUPP LE PINGUIN 505

ZYKLOP 132

ZYMOTO 119

3 ÎLOTS 557

3 STRIPES 364

4 U 186

4 U EXT 186

4 U KETY 39

5 À 7 179

5 ANS APRÈS 129

5 STAR 344

6 BIÈRES ATTACK 488

6 O’CLOCK HIGH 438

6 RIENS 275

7 À C 133

7À L’ENVERS 272

7C+ 119

7 DRAVES 281

28 AT 40 563

64 YOU 232

67 97

69 PSALMS 92

84 144

752 519

752 EXT 519

1512 121

1789 460

1821 101

1940 101

1995 450

1995 EXT 450

2046 133

8610 510

WAITING FOREVA 199

WAITING FOR THE SPRING 40

WALA WALA 423

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE 333

WANDERLUST 252

WANT A BEAUTIFUL LIFE 478

WARM BIER 44

WASP 54

WASP EASE 246

YA PATERAS KE ADELFOS MU 392

Y’A RIEN AU DESSUS 420

Y’A RIEN AU DESSUS (RIGHT VARIATION) 420

YEBUS 409

YELLOW SCORPION 546

YENGA 558

YERAKI 277

YIA TON KYRIAKO 295

ZYVA 133

NUMBERS

0,07 SECONDS 512

1-2-3 ABC 465

2F@ 208

2F@ EXT 208

2 IRISH STEVE 212

3ÈME ÂGE 450

3 GENERATIONS 75

In Kalymnos and all over Greece, Aris devotes much of his time and resources towards organizing and promoting the local climbing, developing new routes, and rebolting old ones as needed.

KATIE ROUSSOS is a copywriter, editor, climber, and one-half of the websites climbgreece.com and climbkalymnos.com. She has contributed writing and design to all of Aris’s guidebooks since 2009.

Aris and Katie divide their time between their flat in Athens, their home under the shadow of the cliffs in Kalymnos, and various spots in the Peloponnese.

Climb Kalymnos

Our mission is to share the beauty of Greece and its culture through climbing. We believe in empowering small communities, which is why we support local businesses and collaborate with local authorities to develop climbing in their areas. By promoting safe climbing and equipping guidelines and donating our time and resources for bolting, route maintenance, and communication, our vision is to establish Greece as the safest sport climbing destination in the world.

Authors

ARIS THEODOROPOULOS is a Greek mountain guide, climbing instructor, vertical access trainer and full-time Kalymnos activist. He is the author of seven previous editions of the Kalymnos guidebook, two editions of a Greece “best of” climbing guidebook, one Leonidio & Kyparissi guidebook, one Varasova climbing guidebook, and two climbing & mountaineering manuals. As director of the Acharnes Alpine Club’s Climbing & Mountaineering School since 1989, Aris has trained thousands of new climbers in Greece in both trad and sport. He has equipped countless climbing routes all over Greece since the early 1980s, many of which have become classics. Aris is a consultant to the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering & Climbing, and he has been PETZL’s official vertical access instructor in Greece for consecutive years; in this capacity he trains, among others, the employees of COSMOTE, the largest mobile phone provider in Greece.

To buy the guidebooks and learn more about climbing in Greece, visit: climbgreece.com / climbkalymnos.com / aristheodoropoulos.com

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