Unforgettable adventures on Via Hanseatica by Via Hanseatica

This is a contemporary romantic travel story about a young Russian businessman Mark, his wife Nadia and their two children. They are on their way to a conference in Lübeck when they accidentally miss their plane in St. Petersburg. There is no choice: the family must drive to Riga to catch the first flight from there. But fate decrees otherwise and they find themselves making a brief but memorable journey through historic sites – a trip that will change their lives forever.

This book has been produced with the financial assistance of the Estonia – Latvia – Russia Cross Border Cooperation Programme within European Neighbourhood and Partnership Instrument 2007 – 2013. The contents of this book are the sole responsibility of Vidzeme Planning Region and can under no circumstances be regarded as reflecting the position of the Programme or of the countries participating in the Programme, alongside with the European Union.

Unforgettable Adventures on the Via Hanseatica

St. Petersburg RUSSIA ESTONIA

Unforgettable Adventures on the Via Hanseatica LATVIA

Riga

Unforgettable Adventures on the Via Hanseatica

Spring Advertising 2014

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Story: Sass Henno, Spring Advertising Print: AS Pakett Number printed: 2000 Design: Annika Tänav Photographs: www.viahanseatica.info, Shutterstock, Vidzeme Planning Region, Leontief Centre, Photo Bank of Ida-Viru Tourism Cluster, Narva Photo Bank, Narva-Jõesuu Photo Bank, Jõgeva County Photo Bank, Onion Road, Vudila Playland,Tartu County Photo Bank, Valga County Photo Bank, Otepää Tourism Information, Valka Tourism Information, Valmiera Tourism Information, Strenči Tourism Information, Kocēnu Tourism Information, Cēsis Tourism Information, Sigulda Tourism Information, Põltsamaa Castle, Sangaste Castle, Taagepera castle, Luke Manor, Otepää Adventure Park, Pizzeria „Liepziedi un Rozmarīns“, Holiday Complex AVOTI, Dikli Manor, Liga SPA Lounge, Kristina Ernits, Anna-Liisa Pääsukene, Katrin Loss, Shutterstock. Illustrations: Annika Tänav, Shutterstock Maps: AS Regio The book was prepared with the help of: Anita Ābolina, Dagnija Udre, Elena Belova, Katrin Loss, Kristina Ernits, Peeter Unt, Saara Bergström, Sille Roomets, Sille Siniavski, Sille Talvet, Siret Soonsein, Teele Kaeramaa, Triin Junkur. Project details: Via Hanseatica tourism route development in Estonia, Latvia and Russia is aimed at creating sustainable development opportunities to remote regions by using the existing cultural and natural objects and highlighting the uniqueness of each country resulting in creation of attractive tourism destination. Via Hanseatica partnership consists of entrepreneurs, tourism development organizations, state and municipal institutions. Lead by Vidzeme Planning Region the partners are jointly developing new products, increasing regions’ visibility and accessibility and marketing all as one Via Hanseatica. More info on Via Hanseatica, its development, partnership and how to contact us can be obtained in www.viahanseatica.info. ISBN 978-9949-33-473-5 ISBN 978-9949-33-474-2 Estonia – Latvia – Russia Cross Border Cooperation Programme within the European Neighbourhood and Partnership Instrument 2007-2013 financially supports joint cross border development activities for the improvement of the region’s competitiveness by utilising its potential and beneficial location on the crossroads between the EU and Russian Federation. The Programme web-site is www.estlatrus.eu The book is for free distribution.

Contents Introducing a modern Hanseatic family on an ancient trade route ......................................................................... 8 Setting out on a journey ................................................................................................. 13 Emperors’ domains ................................................................................................................................ 27 Pushkin’s mysterious past ................................................................................................................. 33 Out of a fairytale ..................................................................................................................................... 37 Postal heritage ........................................................................................................................................... 42 Nooks and crannies of Nabokov’s soul ................................................................................... 48 Visiting Kingisepp ................................................................................................................................... 53 Ivangorod .................................................................................................................................................... 64 Let’s join the Euro! ................................................................................................................................. 69 Warm like the sun ................................................................................................................................. 72 From Sinimäed Hills to the mysterious Sillamäe .............................................................. 74 Natural history book in stone at Valaste ............................................................................... 77 Kukruse Polar Manor .......................................................................................................................... 80 The western shore of Lake Peipus ............................................................................................. 84 Bridges join two places into one ................................................................................................. 90 The girl who could talk to snakes ............................................................................................... 95 A tale about onions, cucumbers and fish ............................................................................. 99 The North – cold and rough ....................................................................................................... 103 Captivated by good thoughts ..................................................................................................... 104 A few miles, a few museums ........................................................................................................ 114 The fragrance of pure nature ....................................................................................................... 118 Playful old hills ........................................................................................................................................ 122 A true sportsman never uses prohibited substances ................................................. 125

Together forever .................................................................................................................................... 128 Sanctuary ................................................................................................................................................... 130 The Estonian version of The Catcher in the Rye ............................................................ 134 One town, two countries ............................................................................................................... 139 Sveiki! ............................................................................................................................................................. 144 Woods and wooden heads ........................................................................................................... 151 In the middle of Middle-Earth .................................................................................................... 154 Lettonia mi Amore .............................................................................................................................. 158 Dikļi romance .......................................................................................................................................... 165 The uprising of Cēsis .......................................................................................................................... 168 Draught animals and party animals ........................................................................................ 173 In defence of elected deputies ................................................................................................... 175 Love is in the air .................................................................................................................................... 180 A more regular flight ......................................................................................................................... 191 A familiar way home .......................................................................................................................... 196

LIST OF OBJECTS .......................................................................................................... 200 MAPS: General map ...................................................................................................................... 00 Russia ..................................................................................................................................... 10 Ida-Virumaa ......................................................................................................................... 67 Southern Estonia .............................................................................................................. 89 Latvia .................................................................................................................................... 142 Quiz answers .................................................................................................................... 206

Unforgettable adventures on

the Via Hanseatica This is a contemporary romantic travel story about a young Russian businessman Mark, his wife Nadia and their two children. They are on their way to a conference in LĂźbeck when they accidentally miss their plane in St. Petersburg. There is no choice: the family must drive to Riga to catch the first flight from there. But fate decrees otherwise and they find themselves making a brief but memorable journey through historic sites â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a trip that will change their lives forever.

ch r h as be co m e m u ca by te u ro is Tr avelli n g th y ea rs th an k s w fe t s la e th in m or e co n ve n ie n t w or k s. to ex te n si ve ro ad

Introducing a modern Hanseatic family on an ancient trade route The Via Hanseatica is a historic trade route from St. Petersburg in Russia to L端beck in Germany that takes you through many countries with a rich variety of cultures. It creates a link between the present day and history that every traveller becomes aware of. The route of the Via Hanseatica crosses many nations with their own history, culture and economics. In this enchanting story they meet a family which decides to hit the old Via Hanseatica road on their own. This memorable ride shows the young family how surprising it is that in spite of the ever accelerating modernisation of the world the businessmen of today have much in common with merchants centuries ago. Our 30 year-old businessman Mark is a keynote speaker at a business conference in L端beck. He goes to Germany with his wife Nadia, who is very keen on history. As it happens, their nanny falls ill and they have to take along their two energetic children, Alexander and Maria, whose unquenchable curiosity makes their Via Hanseatica journey by far the most exciting trip they have ever taken.

co u ld g b y ca r y ou in ll ve a tr y ou of In s te a d a t w ill ta k e th s u b a g in ou r s. co n sid er ta k Rig a in 12 h to g r u b s r te es.n et fr om S t. Pe ess. eu, ec olin r p ex x u .l w w w

Шепелёво Кандикюля

SOSNOVYY BOR СОСНОВЫЙ БОР Глинки

Новое Устье

Курголово Дубки

110

Тисколово

UST-LUGA УСТЬ-ЛУГА

Пятчино

Хаболово Бол. Кузёмкино

NARVA

41 Soldina

Sinimäe

ORU

HTME

Kurtna

Тарайка

Сала

Voka

Домашово

Кёрстово

Фёдоровка

SILLAMÄE

Копор

Котлы

Маттия Пиллово

Куровицы

Семейское

Ломаха

Гакково

NARVAJÕESUU

Глобицы

Косколово

43 44 11

Ополье Онстопель

KINGISEPP KИНГИСЕПП

IVANGOROD 49 98 131 ИВАНГОРОД

Ивановское

Монастырёк Черновское

Kuremäe

SLANTSÕ СЛАНЦЫ

Kuningaküla

Загорье

Бо

Загривье Гостицы Jaama

Переволок

Заклепье

Овсище

SANKT-PETERBURG САНКТ-ПЕТЕРБУРГ 90

LOMONOSOV ЛОМОНОСОВ

Коваши

Петровское

PETERHOF ПЕТЕРГОФ

KOLPINO КОЛПИНО

KRASNOYE SELO КРАСНОЕ СЕЛО

Воронино

Колтуши

Мыкколово

Виллози

TAYTSY ТАЙЦЫ Покровская Кипень107 Черемыкино 109 39 27 29 а 126 Бол. Рейзино Сельцо Форносово Бегуницы 28 GATCHINA 30 Волгово ГАТЧИНА 31 Войсковицы Клопицы 42 77 101 Зимитицы Сусанино Лядино Елизаветино Губаницы 73 Суйда Терпилицы Лопухинка

рье

Телези

Глухово

Никольское Озёра

Рабитицы Молосковицы

VOLOSOVO ВОЛОСОВО Извара

112

111

Сосницы

Реполка

133

Белогорка

Выра Рождествено

Ляды

Курск

Кобрино

10 40

SIVERSKIY СИВЕРСКИЙ Дружная Горка

Кузнецово Новинка

Сосново

Извоз

VYRITSA ВЫРИЦА

Большая Ящера Хотнежа

Сорочкино

ол. Сабск

Низовская

Чаща

Владычкино Мшинская

11 Чолово

Осьмино Шаломино

St.

Riga

g r u b s Peter

km Gatchina 49 m Kobrino 64 k m Siversky 76 k d 157 km oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 338 km km 422 Valga-Valka Riga 572 km

The Neva Ri

ver, Peter an

d Paul Cath

edral

The River N

eva in St . Pe

tersburg

Setting out on a journey “Good morning, Mr. Businessman!” called Nadia in a soft voice that was such a contrast to the dreadful din of the alarm clock – like a harp on a battleground. “Your breakfast is ready, Mr. Businessman!” And it really was, although Mark never ate breakfast. “Isn’t that great,” he mumbled without opening his eyes, but then sat up as if struck by a bolt of lightning. He hit the alarm button and announced quite calmly: “Morning, dear… would you put the kettle on, I would like to have some tea, nice tasty green tea with a slice of lime, if possible.” The morning was drowsy and foggy as usual in the estuary of the Neva River. People living in St. Petersburg say about the overwhelmingly damp weather there that it is “ten per cent water, ninety per cent fog”. 13

In th is cit y yo u fin d a tot al of 93 river s, sprin gs an d ch an ne ls an d ar ou nd on e hu nd re d po nd s.

The River Neva

Cit ize ns of Sc hen gen cou ntr ies can ent er the Sc hen gen bor de r-free ar ea wi tho ut a visa. Th e Com mu nit y inc lud es mo st of the EU me mb er sta tes an d fou r cou ntr ies not inc lud ed in the EU (I celan d, Li ech ten ste in, No rw ay an d Sw itz erlan d).

in St . Petersbur

In contrast to the general air of tranquillity in the city, the apartment number four at 4, Tallinskaya Street was bustling with activity: Nadia was rushing about, stuffing piece of clothing or some other things into their already bursting suitcases at the last minute, Mark was getting on with his morning routines and the children were watching the morning cartoons. Four year-old Maria begged her mother every night before going to sleep to wake her before “Masha and the Bear” started in the morning, come what may. “Ma…aaa…ark!” screamed Nadia, running into the bathroom where Mark was wielding his stylish razor with a flourish. “What happened?” he asked calmly after recovering from the shock, gently dabbing his bleeding cheek with a piece of tissue. He could already guess the nature of the response. “Anya is sick, they think it could be pneumonia. What will we do? Our flight is in four hours!” Anya was Nadia’s young stepsister who was supposed to keep an eye on Maria and Alexander 14

during the trip. But this is quite difficult when you are ill and have to lie down: children like to run about and get in trouble and it’s no fun playing cops and robbers when you have a high fever and trouble breathing. “Well?” “Well, what?” mumbled Mark after scratching his head for a minute or two. “Never mind, let’s take them along.” “Take them along?” echoed Nadia. “Take them along. They have their visas from our summer trip,” explained Mark. He opened his laptop, tapped at the keys for a while and then called the kids watching TV: “Pack your bags, you are coming along!” The kids jumped up eagerly and after stuffing their pants, socks, jackets, shirts and sweaters in their bags they were a bit winded but also ready to go. Mark, on the other hand, paced nervously from the desk to the wardrobe, from the wardrobe to the bed and then back to the desk again – opening every lock, door and drawer without any visible success. Then he picked up the phone, dialled and waited. “Hi, Andrei,” he said quietly to his assistant Andrei over the phone, “be so kind and go to my office, open the top drawer of my desk… top drawer… and find a woodenfinish memory stick. There should be a document named ‘Lübeck’. Print me three copies, I am setting out at once.” He disconnected, put his shoes on and gathered his family for a briefing. “Team, your captain has to go to the office for a moment. I expect everybody to be dressed and ready to go by the time I get back. I will take our luggage to the car now. That is all,” he barked at them, 15

Th e m os t popu la r m us eu m s in St. Pe te rsbu rg in clu de th e Naval Mus eu m, Pe te r th e G re at Mus eu m, th e Z oo log ic al Mus eu m an d th e Ru ssia n Mus eu m of Et hn og ra ph y.

What were the most popular ch ildren’s na me s in Russia in 2012? A) Andrei a nd B) Alexander C) Sergei an d

Maria

and Anasta sia Anna

grabbed all four bags and suitcases and disappeared. Nadia with the children were left gaping after him. Alexander tapped his temple with a finger. The black SUV stopped in front of Cafe Begemot on Sadovaya Street, a door opened and out stepped Mark – a man obviously in no hurry, dressed all in black, but wearing sunglasses with dark red rims. He left his car at the curb in spite of the parking restriction and stepped into the cafe without showing any signs of nervousness or the clumsiness characteristic to common joggers. Although Mark wasn’t a very frequent coffee drinker, this place had become his favourite, mainly because of its convenient location.

While Laima is a famous candy factory in Latvia and Kalev is the most popular chocolate maker in Estonia, in Russia they prefer candy of the Rot Front brand.

“One large black coffee to go, please,” he said to the young waitress, slapped a hundred rouble note on the counter and let his eye roam over the half-empty cafe. There were many people with sleepy and somewhat sad eyes sitting alone on black chairs behind black tables, scattered all over the cafe. “Katarina,” he whispered, barely moving his lips, when he noticed an attractive young woman with long chestnut hair and glasses sitting at the back of the cafe and peering intently at her computer screen. Now Mark woke up with a jolt and his icy calm look turned to panic in an instant. He looked as if he had seen a ghost, but stood up and went bravely to face his demon. “Excuse me. Hi,” he stammered. The woman looked up, startled, saw Mark and stared with wide eyes: “Mark, oh my God!” “Your large coffee to go, sir, and twenty roubles 16

Peterhof Fountains in

back,” interrupted the waitress as they were staring speechless. “Oh, never mind. Keep it,” he said, grasped his coffee from the tray and sat down. “You’re in St. Petersburg. Why didn’t you call me?” “We haven’t seen each other for ages, I didn’t have your number and I didn’t even know if you were alive,” Katarina replied with the obvious reasons. “Besides I’m only here on business. In an hour I head back to Riga.” Now Mark noticed the little red suitcase by the table. “I see. I am also flying away today, to Lübeck. For a conference,” he said in a rush, stroking his right ringfinger. “Come and stop in Riga on your way back. I have a flat and lots of wine.” Katarina said it casually enough to look sexy, slammed her laptop closed and got up, rummaging in her handbag. “My taxi is waiting. Bye, Mark.” She handed her card to him and 17

St. Petersburg

Yo u sh ou ld visit th e H er m ita ge ar t m us eu m, th e Ca th er in e Pa la ce in Tsar sk oe Se lo an d th e Pe te rh of pa rk of fo un ta in s. I t is ne ar ly a m us t to se e th es e th re e wh en in St. Pe te rsbu rg.

Peter and Paul Cathedral

The first buildin g in St. Petersburg was the Peter and Paul Fortre ss, the bell tower of the accompanying cathed ral being the highes t in the city even today.

left. â&#x20AC;&#x17E;Katarina Petrova. Trustee in Bankruptcy. Gogol Street 13, Riga. +371 66 637 957â&#x20AC;?. He felt he was burning up. The unexpected encounter had taken Mark back ten years to a time when he was studying in the Riga Technical Institute. Images of meeting with friends under the Laima clock and the wild nights that followed in the midtown bars flickered before his eyes. Then he remembered the last spring in Riga, the epitome of melancholy. The graduation party, their last love, leaving. All that had happened turned into memories that were never mentioned. Mark had gone back to St. Petersburg, Nadia got pregnant, they got married, broke glasses in front of the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, stroked the sphinxes on Vasilyevsky, looked at the equestrian statue of Peter the Great, and then went on to have two kids and 18

gain lots of professional recognition. Life was sort of great, but now – after seeing Katarina – Mark felt that all his life in St. Petersburg might have been the result of apprehensive choices after all. Had he missed Riga? Yearned for the flame long died out? Mark slipped the precious card in his wallet, grasped the coffee cup and stepped out of the cafe without noticing the waitress’s bright “See you, sir!” He couldn’t see anything but his own feet. Andrei was waiting for him at the front desk of his office with three copies of the ‘Lübeck’ document, carefully bound in a folder. “Please don’t lose these now, boss,” he remarked with a slight grin. “I could fire you for that insulting remark!” snapped Mark, and then added: “But who would do my copies then?” They were interrupted by Mark’s mobile ringing. “Are you on your way? We’ll be late.” It was Nadia. “In the office, I will set out at once,” Mark responded and glanced at his watch. They had two hours to the flight. “I can’t make it. Take the tube and we’ll meet at the airport.” – “What? Hell, Mark. All right,” she snarled and disconnected. “Alexander! Maria! Get dressed quickly, we are taking the underground,” Nadia yelled at the kids trying to watch the TV up to the last minute. “Where’s dad?” asked Alexander. “Yes, where’s dad?” repeated Maria. “He’s going straight to the airport from the office, we’ll meet him there,” explained Nadia. She tied Maria’s laces, looked back over the flat and rushed the kids out of the door. The children ran ahead and their mother followed until they got to the Novocherkasskaya bus stop, took the trolleybus and reached the Gostinnyi 19

Th e on lin e Via H an se at ica jou rn ey pla nn er at ww w. via ha ns ea tic a.i nfo is ve ry he lpful. A mo bile app is also availab le.

The Bronze

Horseman

The oldest and most famous sculpture in St. Petersburg is the Bronze Horseman by Falconet depicting Peter the Great on horseback.

Dvor underground station. “Mother, why do they call St. Petersburg the Venice of Russia?” wondered Alexander while they crossed the Alexander Nevsky bridge. “It’s because there is so terribly much water and terribly much culture in our city, just like in Venice. St. Petersburg is also called a city of museums as we have so many extremely interesting museums and old palaces here,” was Nadia happy to tell them. “You remember we have visited Peterhof and the Winter Palace with you. People come here from far away to see these places with their own eyes.” – “I liked the fountains in Peterhof, it was like Alice in Wonderland,” remarked Maria. “There was too much of everything in the Winter Palace. No wonder it provoked a revolution,” thought Alexander. The trolleybus stopped, people with tired faces rushed out to let others in and Nadia, Maria and Alexander headed for the underground stairs. “So many people take the underground because there are no traffic 20

Th e Win te r Pa la ce b elon g s to th e H er m it a ge co m p le x, w h ic h co n ta in s th e g r ea te s t a r t co llec ti on in th e w or ld. A ll in a ll th er e a r e over th r ee m illi on a r tw or k s fr om th e S to n e A g e to th is d a y.

Winter Palace

jams underground. There is so much traffic in our city that the underground gets you faster where you want to go,” explained Alexander to Maria, as she had opened her mouth about to ask another question. Mark sat in his car with thoughts jumbled in his head. He felt as if a large stone lay on his chest – his black and heavy heart – and his palms were moist with perspiration. All of a sudden he had realised that he hadn’t been happy for a long time. With the fast pace of his life he hadn’t noticed how his days went by uncaringly and monotonously. He had surrendered to his life, his destiny, and all he wanted now was to escape from this trap. To vanish into a heavenly state where everything would be just as he wants. Leaning his forehead on the wheel he mumbled: “I am going back to Riga”. He switched on the engine, sweetly throbbing, and headed for the airport. 21

in St .Petersbur

ound y und e r g r n a m w o H t. there in S lines were ? 4 1 0 g in 2 Petersbur A) 4 B) 5 C) 6

The crowd of thousands of faceless passengers on underground line number two included Nadia and the kids. “Did you know that there is a legend about Lübeck saying that marzipan was first made there?” said the mother trying to distract the children a bit. Marzipan happened to be Alexander’s favourite sweet and he knew better: “No way, marzipan was first made in Estonia! Grandmother told me when we visited her. Are you trying to misinform us, dear Mother, or have you been misinformed? Marzipan was used as medicine in those days, nowadays it is said to be a placebo.” Alexander’s vocabulary was amazingly extensive for a twelve year-old, and he behaved like a youth at least twice his age. “Of course I am not telling you lies on purpose, there is just such a legend that in Lübeck…” – “Hush, Mom, it’s all right,” Alexander cut her short with obvious glee, “I am not angry, but remember that I will not forget such treachery.” Nadia began to giggle and the kids followed her lead. Soon the underground train reached the Moskovskaya station, Nadia held the two hands tight in hers, and they squeezed out. She looked at the clock – less than an hour remained to the closing of the gates. “Hurry, now,” she sped them on, “one more bus and we will be at the airport.” They ran up the stairs and felt the warm late summer air fill their nostrils. “See, there’s the bus stop,” said Alexander and pointed at the bus stop across the street. There were very many people with bags and suitcases, and Alexander could have sworn that one gentleman 22

with a thick beard even had a bucket in his hand. They waited for the green light to cross the street. Nadia’s heart thumped like the Metro Club disco when she noticed the bus marked “Pulkovo 1 – Aeroport” getting closer and closer. “Go, go, go…” she tried to hypnotise the traffic light to change, but to no avail. The cars kept rushing by, back and forth, left and right. The bus stopped, opened the doors and waited until all the passengers, including the strange bearded man with the bucket, sat down. Nadia looked nervously left and right, saw that no cars would reach the crossing in fifteen seconds, grasped Maria in her arms and held firmly on to Alexander’s hand, yelling like a lioness: “Run now!” And they ran and the cars beeped, especially one black SUV driven by the father of those same children who were rushing across the street in the middle of all that traffic. Mark stopped behind the bus for the airport, jumped out in a fit of rage and screamed: “If you want to kill our children, why make such a show about it, be a bit more discreet, like drowning kittens!” Nadia and Maria burst into tears, while Alexander promised to remember his words for another occasion. “You are the one twiddling your thumbs who-knows-where and putting us in a situation where we have to rush like this, you cruel man,” Nadia blurted through her tears, making her husband look ashamed all of a sudden. “Get in,” Mark ordered strictly and they obeyed. 23

“What would you think if we went by car instead?” asked Mark with hesitant friendliness when they had all had a chance to recover. “By car? To Germany? Why!? We have plane tickets!” Nadia did not understand and she was quite right not e Cruiser What is th to. “Well, we cannot be sure that we will get on Russian Aurora of r? fo t n the plane in the first place,” said Mark and tapped ca Fleet signifi on the fuel gauge showing red. “But there are gas art ever taken p A) She has n re o stations everywhere!” – “That’s right! I do not ring its m in battles du f o rs a ye d know which one to choose.” Mark felt like an than hundre ty er, her beau re ca ry ta idiot and he was quite right. “You do not know ili m unmarred ed in a m re s ha which one to choose!? Allow me, I will choose ar II she W d rl o W g for you. See, let’s go there, if that’s all right B) Durin r a daring was used fo d ie with you?” she pointed at two gas stations Nazi-occup escape from rg u sb on the right. Mark muttered something and er et Riga to St. P ot turned right. At the gas station he stepped blank gun sh C) In 1917, a d signalle from Aurora g of the the beginnin olution October Rev

Russian crui

ser Aurora

out, angrily jammed the nozzle in the tank and filled it up, then walked to the station about twenty metres square, and besides fuel stocked with sweet and savoury snacks, drinks of all kinds and colours, magazines for various audiences, oils, waxes, air fresheners, cigarettes and even cut flowers. The last caught his eye; he picked a red rose with a long stem, then grabbed two chocolate bars by the cash registry and paid the florist/station assistant for everything. Simple thanks and goodbyes and then he went back to the car. After getting in he gave the rose to Nadia and chocolates to the children and apologised for his temper. “I have had a stressful day, the presentation and…” He didn’t finish, but continued with his other idea: “What do you think if we still went by car? We could make this our trip, not mine: let’s just take some time off and drive. We can go across Estonia to Latvia and perhaps from there take the plane to Lübeck. You know, the Baltic countries are so pretty at this time of the year and we have some time…” – “Honey, I have forgotten that you can be quite nice sometimes,” said Nadia, trying to be kind and annoyed at the same time. “Children, what do you think?” – “I don’t mind, the further we get from the everyday routines the better,” agreed Alexander. “Will we visit granny too?” begged Maria. Mark’s mother lived in Estonia, in Narva-Joesuu, where the children used to spend a month or two every summer. “I have really started to miss her.” – “Sure we can stop by and say hello, that’s only polite,” he replied. “You agree? Give me five!” Their daughter was overjoyed.

“You know, there was a historic trade route from St. Petersburg to Riga which is called Via Hanseatica now. It passes through Narva to Tartu, and then through Valga to Riga. What do you think? Perhaps we could take a bit of a closer look at the world around us?” suggested Nadia. “We could at least study our home region: you have no idea what interesting things you could find right under your nose, if you know where to look,” Nadia continued with her eyes glowing and added: “You know, I’m glad.” They stocked up with a huge amount of groceries at a near-by supermarket: white and black bread, melted cheese, sausage, ham, sausage pies, cream buns, chips, nuts, biscuits, soft drinks, water and wine. And they started their drive along the Kiev road towards Gatchina where some extraordinary palaces and parks were waiting for them – as much Nadia had already been able to find out online.

alo ng It ’s fu n to pla n yo ur tri p ha ns ea tic a.i nfo. Via H an se ati ca at ww w. via

urg b s r e et St. P

Ga t ch in a

Riga

rg 49 km u b s r e t e St. P p 103 km Kingissep gorod 139 km an Narva-Iv m 7k Tartu 30 km Riga 522

Emperors’ domains “To the right from here there is Taytsy village with the old Demidov Palace and apple orchard,” recounted Nadia, tapping on the tablet screen. “It is said that the water from local springs and the air itself are supposed to have healing properties. And by the way – it is also the location for Gatchina Meat Processing Plant!” – “Clean water and fresh air have always been good for health,” noted Alexander, “but I have

Saint Pau

l’s Cathed

ral in Ga

tchina

Manor of the Demidov fam

The current building was completed from 1774 to 1778 for the Demidov family, the manor house being surrounded by an English park. Early autumn is the best time for visiting the manor and walking in the park. Remember to bring a bag for apples.

ily

also heard an old saying that their meat products have nutritious properties.” – “Alexander, don’t be such a know-it-all,” his father snapped, trying very hard not to laugh seeing how cross Nadia was getting. Twenty minutes later our familiar black SUV drove along the main street in Gatchina that was lined with pre-fab blocks of flats. Then it rolled further toward Ingerburg Gate, finally reaching the grounds of the Palace of Paul I and Prioratsky Palace displaying amazing nature and creativity. Stepping out of the car Nadia – a fashion designer by profession – experienced a feeling similar to the one she had after finishing a new fashion collection: pride over something utterly beautiful though inanimate. “So very French,” she said and smiled contentedly at the grand buildings, the lush greenery and lovely sunshine. The children were most happy about the palace gardens where 28

Priory Palace Mu

Gatchina Pa

seum

tate Museu

er id ea to tak e a wa lk ov I t wo uld be a gr ea t in th e pa rk, fa bu lou s th e nu me ro us br id ge s of au tu mn fo lia ge. ag ain st th e ba ck dr op

lace and Es

Birch House

in Gatchina Pa

lace Park

they could run about, climb, crawl and just have fun in this wonderful place. Mark, on the other hand, was curious about a building in the palace gardens that looked like a heap of birch logs from the distance, but resembled another grand aristocratic palace from the inside. “This is a wonderful place!” said Mark, and they all agreed. “That viewing tower should give us a great view. It’s just a theory not a fact – but we might go and check,” said Alexander, waving regally at the palace watchtower. They all set off towards it, the children leading the way and their parents following, embracing around the waist.

n on th Venus Pavilio

e Island of Lo

ve in Gatchina

Palace Park

“Amazing,” mumbled Nadia, studied her tablet and then pointed out to the others: “Look, there are the Island of Love and the Pavilion of Venus. And there is the obelisk!” – “And there is our car,” shouted Maria, glad to have

Obelisk on Constable Squ

are

Gatchina To

wn museum

of th e Ga tch in a Th e offic ia l ho m epag e alac e.r u. mu se um is at ga tch in ap 31

often s Nadia Why doe ark and M frown at jokes? r’s e d n a Alex

lexander aid that A fr a is e h S A) cold and r b e c ome s the like his fa sarcastic is too at Mark th id a fr a an d e r B) She is with Alex chummy have lost afraid to C) She is s he respect a r her son’s t he u kes abo makes jo

found something familiar in the vast landscape. They looked around, catching their breath for a moment, and then noticed someone missing. “Alexander!” his mother called but got no response. “Let’s go back down, he couldn’t fly away,” Mark suggested and they went down the steep stairs again. “Alex! Alex!” Nadia shouted, but the boy was nowhere to be seen. She ran to the main entrance of the palace and found an elderly guard there, leafing through a book of poems by Pushkin. She asked him whether he had seen a ten to thirteen year-old boy wearing brown jeans and a grey T-shirt. “A young gentleman just walked in and asked if we had a washroom here. I showed him the way and it reminded me of a story I used to remember,” said the guard absentmindedly, showing them the way to the facilities while Alexander opened the door and stepped out. “Why didn’t you tell me you were coming down here, my dear child?” asked the worried mother. Alexander replied: “But I never went up with you in the first place!” Mark burst out laughing but stopped quickly when he saw Nadia glaring at him. They thanked the wise old palace guard and left, cheerful and refreshed.

Fo r ac com mo da tio n we re com me nd th e Ga kk el H ou se ne ar th e Ga tch ina pa rk or th e gu es th ou se s in th e tow n ou tsk irt s.

rsbu e t e P . St

Su id a Kobrin o

Riga

64 km St. Petersburg d 138 km oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 307 km Riga 514 km

Pushkin’s mysterious past “Where to now?” asked Mark when they were back in their car. “Well…” wondered Nadia and opened her tablet. “There is a little place called Suida some fifteen kilometres from here. In the manor house there is a museum now, but Pushkin’s great grandfather used to live there and it is said that their tours are the most heart-warming in all of Russia these days”. – “I want to go there! Alexander Sergeyevich is my favourite poet, unrivalled,” said Alexander with enthusiasm, reciting: “What summer is but wait for decay, death lurks while still we pray that foliage so bright and a girl so gay, like 33

Rig Riga

Ing er bu rg Ga tes, on e of th e ploy s of Pa ul I, tra nsfo rm ed th e cou nt ry es ta te of G. Or lov int o a mi lit ar y tow n. Ge tti ng to Ga tch ina fr om St. Pe ter sbur g wa s on ly po ssible th ro ug h Ing er bu rg Ga tes. New Ing er bu rg Ga tes, bu ilt in 1831-1 832 by ar ch ite ct V. Glink a, ha ve su rvive d to th is da y.

truth is divine and true.” – “Well, what do you say, Pushkin has got competition,” said Mark glowing with pride. “Father, competitors should be contemporaries,” corrected Alexander. “I liked the rhymes, but the last line did not rhyme,” said Maria, tugging at her plaits, closing her eyes and dozing off while gentle wind blew in through the open car window. She opened her eyes again when they stopped in front of a less impressive building than those at their last stop. The door opened and a woman of about fifty stepped out, waving happily to the family. “Hi, city folks! Are you here for the tour?” the friendly woman asked them. “Certainly, I think this is where we meant to come,” Nadia replied. “You can leave the car right there. Please come in,” said the woman and continued: “My name is Yekaterina, by

Ingerburg Gates

The Suida Manor Museum

the way.” – “Nice to meet you! I am Nadia, this is my husband Mark and these are our children Alexander and Maria,” Nadia introduced. They entered the manor house. “You can touch and study everything you see here – touching is a powerful thing,” said Yekaterina. “As you probably know, this building used to belong to Abram Hannibal, Pushkin’s great grandfather. You might find it interesting that Abram came from Africa; he was taken captive there, then taken to Constantinople and afterwards brought to the court of Peter I of Russia. The order to bring him to Russia was issued by the great grandfather of another famous writer – Leo Tolstoy”. – “What weird links you can find when you have the time to dig deep enough,” Nadia remarked. She was very keen on history. Yekaterina kept telling them exciting facts, her eyes shining gently behind her glasses.

the Gannibal, ed to Abram andr Pushkin ng lo be ce ks Ale ch on Manor, whi famous Russian poet The Suida e ather of th df an gr tgrea

Example of A.Pushkinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s writ

ing and signature

The whole tour was very exciting but ever so brief. Saying farewell, Yekaterina hugged the whole family one by one and then they went for a short walk in the park. The sun was shining in a cloudless sky, a clock chimed and the whole park resounded with birdsong. The black SUV drove on leaving a cloud of dust behind.

Riga

rg u b s r e t St. Pe

Sive r sk y Võra Rozhd estven o Riga Riga Riga

Riga

76 km St. Petersburg d 137 km oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 305 km Riga 504 km

Out of a fairytale They continued on Pushkin route: they chose Kobrino village merely five kilometres south for their next stop, famous for Arina Rodionovna, the nanny of the celebrated poet. “I’m afraid I won’t want to hear Pushkin mentioned for quite a while after this trip,” complained Mark about the sightseeing destinations in St. Petersburg area after learning where their journey would take them next. “Stop whining, obey and drive,” ordered Alexander. “Yes, boss, but…, but…” – “It is not for you to question the orders of your superiors. You are a pawn, sacrifice yourself,” the boy said, acting out the role of an army commander. Their vehicle rolled into a parking 37

er St. Peters St. Petersb et P St.

The house of

in was Pushk duel? By whom a in ounded mortally w ver ’s alleged lo A) His wife brother B) His wife’s ver r-in-law’s lo C) His siste

Aleksandr Pu

shkin’s nann

y Arina Rodi

onovna

lot and four young and even younger people got out stretching their legs. Then they set off towards a log-built farmhouse smelling of freshly baked bread. “Can you imagine little Pushkin running about here, climbing trees,” pondered Alexander. “What a waste of time: had he dedicated all his time to writing, perhaps all the wars of the 20th century would never have happened.” He turned his eyes up to the sky and added with a dramatic posture: “No. Wars are ever-present.” An elderly woman in a festive folk costume came to meet them at the door, holding a basket with slices of bread. “Dear guests! I am Larissa and you have come to the House Museum of Arina Rodionovna,” she welcomed them. “You look hungry, please take some fresh bread!” – “Nice to meet you, Larissa!” Alexander began. “We 38

are the famous talking monkeys Alexander and Maria, and these are our city slicker owners Mark and Anastasia”. – “They are quite nice but they talk very little,” Maria chuckled. “Please come in, let me show you the house”. They went inside. They found themselves at beginning of the 19th century. A stove filled the room with the smell of burning wood; there were a crib and a spinning wheel in the far corners. Larissa smiled and told them about the exhibits and Pushkin’s childhood. Then she asked the guests to take a seat. “Pushkin wrote that once

The house of Aleksandr Pushkin’s nanny in Kobrino

upon a time there was a tsar named Saltan who met three beautiful sisters,” she retold the famous fairy tale. “He married the youngest and the most beautiful sister, and the other two were appointed the royal cook and the royal weaver. Naturally the older sisters were jealous and when the tsar went to war and the tsarina gave birth to a child in his absence, they put the mother and the baby prince into a barrel and cast them into the sea. But the sea took pity on them and cast the barrel onto a remote island. Young prince Gvidon had grown up fast while in the barrel and after reaching the shore he went hunting. In the woods he saw a kite attack a swan and he rescued the beautiful bird from the predator. The swan had magical powers and expressed her gratitude by creating a city for the young prince to rule. But Gvidon was homesick and the swan turned him into a mosquito so that f o he could fly home. When he reached the court t the poin What was ’s rk of Tsar Saltan he found one of his aunts, stung n’ in Ma ‘Tsar Salta her in the eye and escaped back over the sea mind? to his faraway realm. When he started to feel ce is sweet A) Vengean homesick again, the swan turned him into a t o n n fly. Back in his father’s castle again, he found appiness ca B) Future h st a p e th his other aunt, stung her also in the eye and be found in escaped. The third time he was turned into a veral g between se y C) Choosin d ge a tr bumblebee and he stung his grandmother’s end in women will nose. Finally he realized that he did not miss his home, but yearned for a wife. Then the swan turned into a beautiful princess and they got married. Tsar Saltan came to visit the new king and was overjoyed to find 40

his wife and his newly married son there.” “Good Lord, she is sleeping like the swan princess,” pointed the storyteller wistfully at Maria asleep in her mother’s lap. “I suppose this means that it is time for us to go,” said Nadia gently and got up slowly to avoid waking the girl. “Thank you, it was truly fantastic!” – “Please come again, I have a thousand more stories to tell,” said Larissa when they were leaving. “Every year in June we have a great festival here. I hope you can come and we could meet again.”

The Tale of Tsar Saltan – swan turns into a princess . Engraving by an unknown artist. Published in the magazin e Niva (1893) in Russia.

th e Re su rr ec tio n Th e mo de rn Ch ur ch of ko e wa s de sig ne d by of Ch ris t in Voskr es en s ch ur ch, n in 20 00. Th e pr eviou ki ch mo Se . A ct ite ch in ar em be r 1964, wa s bu ilt ov N 4 on wn do ed rn wh ich bu om ine nt th e pa re nt s of th e pr e 1845. In th is ch ur ch, re ma rr ied. Th e villag we n ki sh Pu . A et po Ru ssian of Pu sh ki n’s wa s also th e bir th pla ce a. na nn y Arin a Ro di on ovn 41

sburg r e t e P St.

lzvara 92 km St. Petersburg d 101 km oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 270 km Riga 515 km

Riga

Postal heritage The road twisted and turned through woods and fields, passing by idyllic villages. “Does anybody live here?” asked Alexander. Maria peeked through the window. Mark and Nadia found Alexander’s question funny. “Whatever gave you the idea that there isn’t anybody living there?” asked Mark, peering at Alexander through the rear-view mirror. Alexander shrugged and looked pensive. All of a sudden the Oredezh River with characteristic red sandstone banks came into view next to the road. Ahead was the Town of Siversky built on the riverbank. “I understand this is the place where Isaac Schwartz, a famous 42

Russian Com

poser Isaac Sc

hwar tz’s Hous

e Museum

Soviet composer once lived. He wrote the music for Th e Mus eu m of more than a hundred films and some plays as well,” Ru ssian Pe op les’ was Nadia happy to share the information she had Arti st Isa ac found online. “Did he write the music for ‘Masha hw ar tz wa s op en ed and the Bear’?” asked Maria wondering about her Sc in 2011 in a ho us e favourite cartoon. Mark grinned and added: “Good wh er e th e com po se r question! How about it, Nadia?” Nadia just smiled ha d lived fo r 50 and replied absently: “Perhaps he did”. They passed ye ar s. I. Sc hw ar tz through Siversky slowly to get the ambience of wr ote th e mu sic the once popular summer holiday destination. The fo r mo re th an 10 0 next stop along the road was Vyra with the Station films, ba lle ts an d Master’s House Museum that Pushkin described in pla ys. Amo ng oth er one of his works. Mark asked Nadia: “Would you va lua ble ite ms th er e ar e th e Blut hn er please check what that smart tablet has to say about pi an o, th e Sc hw ar tz local restaurants. I think we should have something Wa ll of H on ou r wi th to eat soon.” She took the advice and looked up at ph oto gr aphs an d once. After a while Alexander was able to help by au tog ra ph s of th e pointing at a restaurant straight ahead. “Samson at com po se r’s fr ien ds, Vyrin’s is an authentic Russian restaurant,” Nadia st er s.

an d po

remarked. Mark had only just found a place to park the car when the children began to yank the doors. Luckily Mark had already anticipated this and locked the doors. They entered the restaurant in a very proper order, allowing the ladies go first. “Honey,” Nadia began, when they had sat down and were browsing the menu. “If you don’t mind I would like to drive on myself. To get a sense of the road, you know.” Mark glanced at her with a probing look. “Well, why not,” he agreed after reaching for the drinks list. “In that case I will sample the local home-brewed beer. Waiter!” They all waited in silence, looking forward to a nice dinner and stirred only when the waiter brought three dark glasses of root beer and one glass with a white and fluffy head of foam. “What shall we toast to?” asked Mark, raising his glass. “To Pushkin!” Alexander suggested at once. They all burst out laughing and raised their glasses. After two bowls of rassolnik (thick enough to stick a spoon in upright, as Maria proved, giggling), two huge portions of boiled dumplings and three bowls of plinis with apple compote they were all full. While Mark paid, Nadia mentioned that she would like to visit the famous Station Master’s House. Everybody liked the idea. 44

Am on g ot h er th in g s th e m u s eu m exh ib it s a bo ok fo r re g is te ri ng or d er s of pos ta l h or s es, on e or d er h avin g be en m ad e by Pu sh k in . The Station Master's Hou

se Museum in Vyra

They were greeted by a nice little old man in a station master’s uniform accompanied by a bit bigger lady in a Russian folk costume. “Isn’t it incredible that nowadays you can send a letter by just moving your finger a bit, and it is available 24/7,” wondered Alexander, walking through the museum depicting a station on a post road in the 19th century. He then had an idea that he would like to send a letter to his grandmother in Moscow. “Excuse me, do you have parchment and a quill?” he turned politely to the station master. “Only in the display case, but you can use paper and pen as much as you want,” he replied, searched his desk drawer, put paper and a pen on the desk and let Alexander sit down. “Dear Baba,” wrote Alexander, aligning letters gracefully on the paper. “We have reached a village called Vyra where we have spent several hours already. Here the soldiers are given food and allowed to send out their last letters – some write to their parents, some to their sweethearts and some to newspapers. I write to you as I know you 45

Th e St at ion Mas ter’s H ou se cr ea ted in th e fo rm er po st al st at ion in Vy ra villag e is th e fir st bo ok ba se d mu se um in Ru ssia.

will treasure it most. We have broken through the blockade and are progressing at a fast pace to the west of Leningrad. Soon we will leave our homeland behind and proceed to even greater victories. Put your mind to rest knowing that I am fine. We will meet again – if not next week then during autumn break when we will visit you with Maria. Yours, Alexander.” He folded the letter, slipped it into an envelope and asked mother to write the Mark’s What was ss? address. “Hey, add this little souvenir as well,” ne line of busi said the station master and handed him an d e rt o p im old-fashioned travel pass. When the envelope pany A) His com ury cars x lu n a was ready for sending he stamped it and then Germ to Russia promised to send it to Moscow at once as it d e p lo e v e d pany was such an important letter. B) His com wable rketed rene and ma ipment energy equ ad a pharm C) He owne y n a p ceutical com

“This is how they did business in the old days. Actually they do it just like that now too, only faster,” mumbled Mark to himself, browsing the exhibits while the museum guide told another story about Pushkin.

The house reeked of authenticity: there were postal carriages two centuries old, stationery and furniture two centuries old and most probably also museum guides two centuries old. “Well, shall we take a horse and carriage and drive on?” Nadia giggled as if she were twenty years younger. They decided not to touch the relics after all and Nadia sat behind the wheel of a completely modern black SUV. “Thank God, now it will get exciting,” Alexander laughed.

The environm

museum is typica ent recreated in the

H ou se Th e St at ion Mas ter’s rm cr ea ted in th e fo er po st al st at ion in Vy ra villag e is th e fir st bo ok ia. ba se d mu se um in Ru ss d an s Arc hi ve d do cu me nt ter” th e no ve l “S ta tio n Mas sis ba e by Pu sh ki n we re th en tic fo r re cr ea tio n of au th d an living en vir on me nt at mo sphe re of a 19th yo u ce nt ur y po st al ro ut e: se e th e cobble d ya rd an d th e re st or ed se t of bu ild ing s.

l for the post statio

ns of the time of Pus

hkin.

st or y ab ou t th e st at ion ing ch tou a en itt wr o Pu sh ki n ha s als o fe ll in love an d left ma st er’s da ug ht er, wh sbur g. he r fa th er fo r St. Pe ter ul ma st er an d hi s ch ee rf ion at st e th as g tin ac Th e gu id e ies. rs ma ny excit ing st or da ug ht er tell th e visito te/st ma st er hi st or y-ga tch ina.ru /es ta 47

sbu r e t e P St.

Roz

en v t s e hd

burg

ters St. Pe

o Riga

78 km St. Petersburg km Gatchina 29 d 117 km oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 297 km Riga 493 km

Riga

Nooks and crannies of Nabokov’s soul “Rozhdestveno is an important place in the life of Vladimir Nabokov. He spent a lot of time here at his uncle’s the mansion and later his uncle bequeathed the estate to him. Because of the revolution he could enjoy his property only for about a year,” read Mark about the town they could see in about three minutes’ drive from Vyra from the tablet screen. “There was Nabokov’s mother’s summer mansion in Vyra but not much remained of it after the WWII. Nowadays their Rozhdestveno Mansion houses a memorial museum of Nabokov and there is also a great park. His childhood in Rozhdestveno and the local scenery inspired Nabokov to take up writing when he was 48

abroad.” Nadia’s straightforward driving took them into the town in merely two minutes; they parked the car and set off on foot. “This church was built here after Rozhdestveno Village was officially declared a town in 1786,” Mark waved at a fine bell tower in the distance. “The local mansion is said to be very refined,” Nadia recalled something she had heard. “It is supposed to be just like it was when Nabokov lived here; even the silverware and cutlery are the same. There should also be an extraordinary guide there, some nice young man.” “You know, I am sick of houses and writers, I’ll take a breath of fresh air,” said Mark when they reached the

Th e cou nt ry ho us e (da ch a) of th e me rc ha nt Eli se ev. Bu ilt in th e be gin nin g of th e 20 th ce nt ur y in th e Nor th er n Art Nou ve au st yle by V. Ta vli no v. Th e ow ne r of th e es ta te wa s th e me rc ha nt ’s da ug ht er Eli za be th Fo mi na.

Belogorka Mano

Tw o ka rs t ca ve s, on e of th em ex ten di ng ne ar ly 20 me tre s be low th e gr ou nd, ar e loc at ed in th e re d sa nd st on e blu ff of Gr ya zn a Ri ve r in Rozh de st ve no.

mansion. “Alex?” – “My sentiments exactly,” was the boy ready to go with his father. “Let’s walk a bit in the park.” So the boys and the girls went their separate ways: girls to marvel at the luxurious interiors of the mansion and the boys for a walk in the park. “Caves!? Of course! Everything has a reason, even my coming with you now,” said Alexander excitedly when they reached the river and he saw the caves. He had a deeper relationship with caves than anybody could understand. “Auuu…,” he yelled – and the red cave echoed. He ran in from one end and out from the other, called here and there until he finally sat down at one end. Mark watched him from a distance – he always enjoyed looking at his children play. It was like the company of a good friend whom you very seldom meet. He thought of Katarina who was getting in her car at Riga airport just then and heading for her flat in central Riga. Mark felt cold.

Caves in Rozhde

At the same time a very handsome young man called Dmitri met the girls at the mansion. He described Nabokov’s life so vividly that Nadia could almost picture him in her mind. “At the age of 16 Nabokov

stveno

Rozhdestveno

experienced his first secret romantic moments with his first sweetheart Valentina in this mansion belonging to his uncle. He used to call her Lyusja and he wrote about her in several of his novels, although under various other names. Those warm summer nights under the Italian-style colonnade while his uncle was away… Nabokov’s mother was a great romantic and allowed the maid to leave fresh fruit for the youngsters out on the table on the veranda. When his father heard his son’s poems describe the light cast by bicycle lamps, veranda with columns and the whisper of her dress, he had only one question to ask his offspring: “What? What did you do to that girl?” And then a short tirade about followed how a careful young man should keep a woman out of trouble.” Dmitri was very young and very charming. Maria was already tired of the long day and begged her mother to leave, but Nadia wanted to stay until the end of the tour. “Listen to Uncle Dima 51

Memorial Man

Vla di mi r

Lj usja

talk, he has such a way with words,” she tried to sweet talk the girl – and the young man. Dmitri blushed and shyly continued his talk, taking them through the entire building until they finally reached that famous colonnade where they were greeted by the sight of the father and son wrestling. Alexander had Mark in a stranglehold and thus won the match. “Twelve years as a professional wrestler, and still unbeatable!” the youngster bragged. After saying good-bye to the guide they went to the car and drove on. “Did you see the caves?” asked Nadia. “We certainly did,” called Alexander enthusiastically. “They say this ground has swallowed up whole houses and also people. Even now a thousand year old items get washed out with spring water,” recounted mother, watching the road. “Dima told us.” Mark frowned.

adia overly Why was N in Dmitri? interested r a soft spot fo A) She had en m ng slender you lected and had neg B) Her husb of his work her because s al problem and person ask him planning to r C) She was d o alk m el fo to be a catw n io ct lle ion co her next fash

St . Catherin

e’s Cathedra

l in Kingissep

rsbu e t e P . St

pp e s i g Ki n

Riga

133 km St. Petersburg 3 km Gatchina 10 d 35 km Rig oro Narva-Ivang Tartu 204 km Riga 446 km

Visiting Kingisepp “I’m afraid won’t be able to drive around tonight anymore,” remarked Nadia when she noticed the children dozing off in the rear-view mirror. “Why don’t we drive to Kingisepp and take a room – one for the kids and one for us. What do you think?” – “Why not,” replied Mark coldly. Nadia paid no attention to it. “What sights will we be passing on our way?” she asked him to find out online. Mark tapped the screen and read from the travel app in a tired voice: “About forty kilometres from here is a village called Izvara, the birthplace of Nicholas 53

The Nich

olas Roer

ich Mano

r Museum

Roerich, a painter, writer, philosopher, archaeologist, theosophist and public figure. It goes without saying Th e Ro er ich H ou se that there is his house museum now. Beautiful place Mus eu m wa s as far as I see from the pictures.” – “Nicholas Roerich th e fir st na tio na l – isn’t he the man who was very much interested mu se um in Ru ssia. Visito rs ar e we lco me in oriental philosophies and travelled with his wife . fr om 11 a.m . to 5 p.m in Central Asia for five years. I think he later stayed in India. Isn’t he the one?” enquired Nadia. “His We dn esda ys s. to Su nd ay paintings showed great oriental influence.” But Mark was once again tapping away and continued reading: “Sixty kilometres to the northwest lies Koporye Fortress, a medieval stone edifice that is relatively untouched by time. Built in defence of Novgorod…” – he yawned – “…absolutely must see… unforgettable experience… marvel of architecture.”

He continued: “Fifty kilometres west of Koporye, on the Kurgolovo Peninsula there is a nature reserve extending over the entire peninsula – sixty thousand hectares of beautiful marshy lands under international protection.”

Koporye Fortress

“Now we are an hour’s drive from Kingisepp, a town formerly called Yamburg but renamed after a famous Estonian communist,” read Mark in a voice turning ever more monotonous. He was truly worn out. “Can’t you talk in a slightly more normal voice, you are making me sleepy,” complained Nadia. “You want me to shut up?” – “No.” – “Then be glad of what you have.” Nadia didn’t say a word, but her eyes glistened. Mark carried on: “Kingisepp is a place with great cultural, architectural and historical treasures: there is a fortress six hundred 55

Th e exce lle nt ly pr es er ve d Kopo ry e fo rtr ess sh ow s bo th En gli sh an d Fr en ch ar ch ite ctu ra l influe nc es, loo ki ng un lik e an y oth er fo rtr ess in Ru ssia.

The nature reserve of Kurgalsky

Peninsula

years old and a cathedral three times younger, which is the focus of the architectural structure of the entire town. The main museum displays local history and traditions. There is also – yes, you guessed it! No, not the doghouse of Pushkin’s dog made of solid gold, but another park! But what is most important – you can find a hotel with very comfortable beds and satellite TV in Kingisepp and it is called Visit! Course to starboard, no… to portside!” Mark didn’t know any marine terminology; he just wanted to stretch out between clean sheets. The last rays of the sun shone over the horizon and then just a glow remained. The black SUV reached the highway and Nadia stepped on the gas. Adrenaline rush made her feel huge and powerful. She heard Mark breathing through his nose and for some reason it irritated her, made her furious. “Shut up,” she barked in a whisper, but Mark didn’t hear her any more. To calm down Nadia turned 56

the radio up, pushed her foot down on the gas and watched the speedometer creep higher – 100... 110... 120 – she was leaving her rage far behind her. She was chasing the sun, but couldn’t reach it. And if she could, she would burn. The signs flickered by – ‘Kingisepp 60’, ‘Kingisepp 50’, ‘Kingisepp 40’ as Nadia sped on like the wind. There wasn’t much left to go, but she was tired and almost hypnotised by the road. The music pulsing smoothly from the radio pulled her into a trance-like state and everything around her started to flow and

Yam Fortress

in Kingisepp

Th e Kin gis epp Mus eu m of Lo ca l H ist or y di sp lay s mo re th an 15,0 00 ite ms, ma ny of th em fr om ea rly Slavic an d Fi nn o- Ug ric se ttlem en ts.

s Th e Ya m Fo rtr ess wa 84 13 bu ilt in 33 da ys in ut e to pr ote ct th e tra de ro th e be tw een Novgo ro d an d Ba lti c ha rb ou r tow ns. 57

Th e fo ca l po int of th e tow n ar ch ite ctu re, th e l St. Ca th er ine Ca th ed ra d an wi th five do me s th re e-level be ll tow er wa s de sig ne d by th e fa mo us ar ch ite ct Ant on io Ri na ld i.

flicker. All the trees and power line posts became alive and started to march along with the black SUV, making the corridor between them ever narrower, narrower, narrower, narrower, and narrower. The set sun floated up from the horizon like a big happy balloon and then spluttered and twisted when the air escaped from it. “Hi, where are you going?” asked a friendly driver from an approaching dark Volvo. “Into the sun,” said Nadia – and woke with a start. “Good God,” she realized with a shock – she had fallen asleep for a moment. She had almost killed all her family. Her mind was crystal clear at once and she felt convinced it couldn’t happen again. She needed to arrive fast nevertheless. A sign read ‘Kingisepp 20’, meaning that they would arrive in ten more minutes. Nadia drank a mouthful of water. It was incredibly refreshing. “Water – nectar of gods,” she thought respectfully of her liquid friend.

s a r k i r i ve r P a k ov e ral nk of om a n Th e R h e le ft b a t e o f G e n t t a e m os r e st d on lo c a t e t h e fo r m e i s t r o m . Th i s a pa r k h B , on Lu g a I va n o vi c h t i n t h e u m e n t on si g Ka r l n z e m ve. a b le o k r r b a r e m -s h a p e d gra o m’s r t li o n s i on B

She turned right toward the town. “Mark!” she whispered, trying to wake her husband. “Mark, we are in Kingisepp!” – “Yes, yes, I’ll come, but I have my wife and children with me,” he mumbled sleepily and opened his eyes. “Where were you going?” asked Nadia, looking amused. Sleepwalking had

Kingisepp Museu

m of Local Histo

ry and Tradition

always seemed hilarious to her, like good old absurd humour. “I don’t know,” Mark replied. He couldn’t recall what he had just said or seen. “Would you please take that gadget and find our way to the hotel,” she asked. Mark tapped the screen for a while and then said: “Number 6, Vokzalnaya Street. Turn left before the river and enter the town. Go from Slobodskaya Street to Zhukova Street and then along Mark Street to Vokzalnaya,” he concluded with a victorious grin. 59

They winded along the riverbank until they reached the street with the familiar name and arrived at the hotel parking lot quite soon. They gently collected their children from the back seat, grabbed their suitcases from the boot, and entered the hotel.

ark dream What did M s having wa of when he car? e th a nap in

“Good evening! What can I do for you on such a lovely evening?” asked the young woman at the reception. “Could we have two rooms for tonight please, one double and one twin,” Mark expressed their wishes, jotted down the required personal data and took the keys. He was so tired that he never noticed the lovely interiors of the hotel, decorated with Persian carpets. “Your rooms are on the second floor, number 205 and 209,” said the administrator. “If there is anything else you would like, for example to order dinner, please call me. The information booklet and the menu are next to the phones in your rooms.” – “Thank you very much and have a nice evening,” said Mark, exhausted and ever so grateful for a place to lie down. “Have a nice stay with us!” wished the receptionist as if reading from a good service manual.

ng with his A) Negotiati er siness partn German bu B) Talking to

“Where have you brought us? This is a trap! All this ‘trip’ is a trap!” said Alexander, faking panic and opened his eyes when father carried him up the stairs. “Here’s your cell,” grunted Mark opening the door to the children’s room and entering. Mark grabbed the TV remote at once and switched to a history channel. Nadia put Maria down on the soft bed and stroked her head but Maria was

Katarina

ces with two fa C) Of a man to Riga inviting him

in deep sleep. “Maria, wake up. Please change into your pyjamas, brush your teeth and wash your ears before you go to sleep.” Maria obeyed like a zombie – she opened her eyes, found her toothbrush and toothpaste in her bag and dragged herself to the bathroom. Alexander didn’t wait to be told, he followed his sister. “Shall we go?” asked Nadia and Mark agreed. “If you need anything, we will be in the room across from yours. Good night!” she said and kissed both cheeks covered in toothpaste. “Eyawoo,” the children replied. Mark and Nadia dragged themselves to the facing room. Their room looked minimalist and quite tasteful – a high and large bed, a desk, two easy chairs, a couch and a coffee table and a wide-screen TV. The lighting was adjustable and Mark dimmed it. They put their bags in a corner, undressed and went to bed without even brushing their teeth. The bed was soft and smelled of clean laundry. They said good night to each other and dozed off – it had been a long and exhausting day. “I had a wonderful day today,” whispered Nadia but Mark had already dozed off. She snuggled close to him. A ringing phone woke them up in the morning. Mark crawled out of bed and answered the phone. “Good morning, sir,” said a familiar voice. “I am calling about the data you filled into our registry.” – “Please don’t bother, Alex,” Mark yawned. “Are you awake? Breakfast in ten minutes and that’s an order.” – “Yes, boss”.

Romanovka Park in King

isepp

They met in the hallway between the two doors and went to have breakfast at the hotel restaurant. A rich buffet was laden with sausages, scrambled eggs, fried potatoes, stewed beans, slices of ham and cheese, buns, bread, rolls, pancakes, cakes, apples, pears, slices of melon, halved grapefruits, juice, coffee and tea. Mark and Alexander eagerly tucked in but the girls were like dedicated weight watchers, tasting a bit of this and that – but not too much. Having eaten they began to make plans for the day, picking at the tablet keyboard together. “Before we leave Kingisepp, perhaps Maria would like to go horseback riding?” Nadia asked. The little girl cheerfully agreed. “I read that Romanovka Park offers this possibility”. – “I would also like to go horseback riding,” stated Alexander convincingly. – “Oh, well, as 62

you wish!” their mother couldn’t grasp the mischief in her son’s voice. “I was joking. Me and dad would rather go and have a few beers while you do the girly stuff. Right, dad?” – “Right you are,” agreed Mark. “And then we will head towards Ivangorod where we will cross the border to the Estonian town Narva over the Narva River, possibly stop by at your grandmother’s place, then cruise on to Riga.” – “Before Riga we will definitely visit Tartu and Valga,” Nadia added. “I am so excited; it has always been so nice in Estonia.” “There is a place called Rendezvous a couple of streets from here. We will go and have a drink there. Come and meet us when you have finished,” Mark gave instructions to the girls after leaving the hotel. “Let’s go,” Alexander called and they went their separate ways. After a couple of Virgin Mary’s for the older gentleman and ice cream shakes for the younger one, a certain black SUV appeared in front of Rendezvous. They waved to their sweet little waitress, left the nice and rather empty café and continued their journey westwards over a wide river.

Th er e ar e 25 ba rs, ca fe s an d re st au ra nt s in Kin gis epp.

rsbu e t e P . St

lvango rod

168 km St. Petersburg m 14 k Avinurme 1 m 8k Palamuse 15 Tartu 184 km km Riga 269 Valga-Valka Riga 426 km

Riga

Wa nd er ab ou t insid e th e fo rtr ess, en joy th e vie w of th e river an d th e tow n of Nar va fr om th e top of th e wa ll. Re me mb er to go an d se e th e ch ur ch de sig ne d an d na me d after th e Ch ur ch of th e H oly Tr ini ty in Mos cow.

Ivangorod After twenty minutes they were at the Russian border in Ivangorod. They could see Ivangorod Fortress along with St. Nicholas and Dormition Churches in the distance. “A wonderful place for a walk,” thought Nadia, but Mark suggested that they could save that for later. “Let’s fill the tank and cross the border. Fuel is expensive in Estonia – it generally is in the European Union.” “You are a darling,” whispered Nadia, her eyes twinkling and a girlish elation in her voice from excitement over adventures waiting ahead. Electrifying excitement 64

t St. Pe

was almost visible inside their car. Mark was not showing any signs whatsoever of his recent boredom, or of fear for being late for the most important business meetings in his career. They were definitely crossing a border in more ways than one.

is a I va n g or o d tr e ss in m e d ie va l for io n e d b y m iss Ru ssia, c om 1492. I va n lll in

Ivangorod Ch

urch of the Ho

ly Trinity, the

final resting pl

ace of Baron

Stieglit z and hi

s family

d th e A cc or di ng to on e leg en or od bu ild ing of th e I va ng e Ru ssian ca st le st ar ted wh en th th e Kin g Czar aske d hi s fr ien d a pi ec e of Sw ed en to se ll hi m rr ou nd ed of lan d th at ca n be su rs e. wi th th e hi de of on e ho

er the bord Why did at? th e k feel li crossing g ere crossin A) They w e r betw en the borde d Russia Estonia an

tarina lt that Ka fe rk a M ) away B few steps was just a rder bo across the

pe cte d no Th e Kin g of Sw ed en ex an ted tri ck s an d na tu ra lly gr wi sh, th e Ru ssian Czar hi s pa ym en t pr ob ab ly re qu es tin g no fo r th e tin y ar ea.

ga as crossin C) Mark w imself h border in

su bje cts Bu t th e Czar told hi s o th in to cu t th e ho rs eh id e int tog eth er. ribbo ns an d tie th em

th e hi de Th is wa y th ey ma de cou ld int o a lon g st rip th ey lan d us e to su rr ou nd en ou gh fo r th e Czar to bu ild a mi gh ty fo rtr ess on .

atu ere

use

Mag

Kai

Narva Fortress

Eli

hte

KOHTLAJÄRVE Saka Ontika

Aseri

Purtse

Rannu

JÕHVI

KOHTLANÕMME

Savala

Toila

Kiikla

NARVA

Voka

ORU

AHTME

63 Soldina

Sinimäe

64 65

114

Kurtna

Мо

Mäetaguse

Kuremäe

SLANTSÕ СЛАНЦЫ

Kuningaküla

Tudu

Загривье

Oonurme

Iisaku

Гостицы Переволок

Jaama

Tudulinna

Alajõe

Втроя

Venevere

Vasknarva

Avinurme

Козлов Берег

Kauksi

Lohusuu

Ulvi

Домажирка

Peipsi järv

Добручи

Лаптовицы

MUSTVEE

Подолешье

Torma

Kasepää

Kääpa

istvere

Koosa

Saadjärv

Äksi

Vara Vedu Vasula

Мазиха

Афаносово

Кунесть

Луневщина

Nina

Alatskivi

iavere

ГДОВ GDOV

KALLASTE

Kokora

Maarjagdaleena

Ветвеник

Kodavere Pala

Колодье Луги Подоспа

Полично

Voore

SOMPA

Фёдоровка

SILLAMÄE

KUKRUSE

KIVIÕLI PÜSSI

Sonda

NARVAJÕESUU

115

Kolkja

Чудское озеро 67

Varnja

Подлипье

Спицино

Залахтовье Партизанская Ямм

sbu r e t e P St.

a n g or od lv va Na r 68 km

Riga

1 St. Petersburg m 14 k Avinurme 1 m 8k Palamuse 15 Tartu 184 km km 269 aa igig RR Valga-Valka Riga 426 km

Russian-Es

an border Whi le Nar va is an im po rt an t bo rd er cr ossi ng po in t, hi st or ic ally a to w it is n th at lin ks tw o ci vi lizat io ns. Any to ur ism in fo rm at io n ab ou t th e ar ea is avai la bl vi si to r ce nt re on e at th e Nar va th e Pe et ri plat s (P et erâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sq ua re ). to ur ism .n ar va.e e 68 toni

Let’s join the Euro! After a short wait in the area set aside for people crossing the border and a little fuss with the officials on both sides, the black SUV drove onto Estonian soil. “Contraband! Contraband!” screamed Alexander. Acting out a border guard, he pointed at the items his mother was holding – the tablet computer and a cup of coffee. “To declarations, at once!” he ordered. “To deca-rations, at once!” Maria joined her brother and pointed her hand like gun: “Hands up, you thug!”– “Easy, Junior Sergeant Maria, we will try out non-violent cooperation first,” said Alexander, trying to calm his little sister down. “I get it! Good cop, bad cop, I see,” Mark caught on. “Diplomatic immunity,” retorted Nadia, opened the glove compartment, grabbed a couple of toffee candies and threw them to the power players on the backseat. “This constitutes a bribe,” Alexander explained to Maria and asked: “Shall we turn a blind eye?” Maria closed her left eye very carefully, unwrapped the bribe and popped it into her mouth.

Narva Fortres

s and Ivangor

od Fortress

Wh en cr ossin g th e bo rd er re me mb er to ha ve a fir e ex tin gu ish er an d a fir st aid ki t in th e ca r. Yo u mu st no t br ing an y me at or mi lk pr od uc ts wh en dr ivi ng fr om Ru ssia to Es ton ia. Fo r infor ma tio n on re st ric tio ns on alc oh ol, cig ar ett es an d oth er go od s go to ww w. em ta. ee.

In th e no rth er n cou rty ar d of th e Nar va Ca st le yo u ca n tak e pa rt in int er ac tive tou rs offe rin g lot s of ne w expe rie nc es fr om fo rg ing a na il to ma ki ng ce ra mi cs on a po tte r’s wh ee l.

While they were crossing the river, Nadia pointed at the large stronghold with a great white tower on the left. “That one over there is Hermann Castle in Narva. The Danes built it in the 13th century to protect the recently conquered land from Russian attacks.” – “Estonia has always been a desirable piece of land as it has been a link between the east and the west. Actually, it still is,” Mark added. His company was developing, producing and exporting solar panels, and their goods also crossed Estonia, going further to the Netherlands and then on to international wholesalers. “Dad, can you guess the name of this street?” Alexander asked with an air of mystery. “Let me guess: is it Pushkin Street? Am I right?” He was right.

A leg en d tells th at a se cr et pa ssag e on ce led fr om th e Nar va Ca st le to th e I va ng or od Fo rtr ess.

Fortress of N

arva

th e C a s tle a n d a v r a N e w th u g h o ve r vie o r A w a lk in o th a s r o vid e of fo r tr e ss p o f h is to r y s r a e y 0 m s. o f th e 70 a n d fir e a r s n o ti a c fi fo r ti

“When will we get to grandmothers’?” Maria asked a bit impatiently. “Well, it is a twenty minutes’ drive to Narva-Jõesuu, so we’ll be there in about half an hour,” Nadia replied and then realized: “Hey, we haven’t even phoned her, how we know if she is even there?” – “She is either there or here in Narva,” Mark thought and added: “Let me find out.” He dialled and listened to the ringtone. “Well, hello, son,” a warm voice answered. “Hi, Mom! What are you doing and where are you?” asked Mark outright. “Where am I?” his mother Vera was surprised to hear the question and replied: “At home, where else? Are you in Lübeck already?” – “Yes, sure, in Lübeck. Just wanted to let you know that we’ve arrived nicely.” He turned right and continued: “Very nice town, quite Hanseatic, this place.” He turned left, entering the motorway. “That’s great. Get me something nice and say hello to Nadia and take some pictures and…” Vera chattered on. “Sure, sure, will do,” Mark agreed, said goodbye and grinned: “A little joke!”

Th e Nar va A lexan de r’s Ca th ed ra l on Ki rik u (Ch ur ch ) St re et is fa mo us fo r its sp eci al ac ou st ic qu ali tie s, ma ki ng all con ce rts in th e ch ur ch tru ly ma gn ifice nt.

What do N arva, Tallinn and Lü have in com beck mon? A) All three belonged to the Hanseati c League B) They share d the same town law (the Lübeck law) C) Pushkin h a d an apartment in all these towns

Th e bu ild ing of the Na rva Colleg e is the mo st inn ova tive on the eas ter n bor de r of Eu rop e.

Narva Colle

ge of the Uni

versity of Ta

rtu

rg u b s r e t St. Pe

Narva-Jõesu u 168 km St. Petersburg m 14 k Avinurme 1 m Riga 8k Palamuse 15 Tartu 184 km km 269 Valga-Valka Riga 426 km

Riga

Ann ua l lam pr ey fe st iva ls tak e pla ce in Nar va-Jõe su u, pr ovid ing an oppo rtu ni ty to ta st e de lic iou s di sh es ma de wi th lam pr ey s. Nar va-Jõe su u di sp lay s un iquthe sa mp les of 20 ce nt ur y wo od ar ch ite ctu re fa mo us fo r th e lac y wo od ca rving s.

Warm like the sun They passed the cemetery and drove into the town of Narva-Jõesuu. Mark’s mother lived quite near, at Linda Street, abundantly lined with pine trees. The black SUV stopped in front of a small white house and they got out one by one, went through the gate and gathered at the front door. Mark used the elegant knocker. “Just a moment,” said a woman with a mild voice, and a moment later they could hear steps approaching. The door opened and the startled face of a youthful lady came into view. She broke into a smile and held out her arms to the children rushing towards her. “Baba,” they cried. “We cannot stay long, we need to hurry along,” Mark explained. “Lord, I never expected,” said Vera, too stunned for words. “Please do come in, let’s 72

St.

have tea and cakes.” Vera always had a cake at hand, just in case some guests dropped in. “I’d just got back from the beach when you phoned. The sea will stay warm for a while yet.” “Lord, I never expected,” Vera kept saying with glistening eyes. They sat on the veranda, had cake and talked – the children about school, Mark about his business and Baba about nature. Nadia talked to Vera about sewing: about new patterns, old and new tricks and tips. Vera loved her daughter-in-law as if she were her own daughter. “Lord, how nice of you to have come,” said Vera wistfully, saying goodbye at the door. “We’ll come again soon, don’t worry,” Mark consoled his mother and hugged her farewell. “Bye!” They got into the car and the engine started to purr again.

as a s a lo ng hi st or y ha u su õe -J va ar rt N as su m m er re so ed us as w it re so rt as ri ng th e t. Pe te rsbu rg du S of e it el e th by by th e ia n Em pi re an d ag e of th e Ru ss du ri ng fr om Len in gr ad e it el l ua ct lle te in th e Sovie t er a.

Nar va-Jõe su u is ca lle d th e tow n wh er e th e su n is alw ay s sh ini ng.

Narva-Jões

uu beach

A lth ou gh fo rg ott en fo r a wh ile, th e tow n wi th spas, wh ite sa nd y be ac he s an d re fr eshi ng pin e fo re st s is on ce mo re tu rn ing int o th e fa vou rit e su mm er re so rt in Es ton ia.

sbu r e t e P St.

Sillam äe 184 km St. Petersburg d 32 km oro Narva-Ivang km Riga Avinurme 84 Tartu 154 km Riga 396 km

Riga

Si nim äe d (th e Blue H ills) ha ve be en na me d after th e loc al blu ish fo re st s. e Th e Silla m ä ry to C u lt u r a l H is s h ibit Mu s eu m ex al pa le on to lo g ic la r g e fin d s a n d a m ico llec ti on of th e n e r a ls fr om ia n en ti r e E u r a s co n ti n en t.

From Sinimäed Hills to the mysterious Sillamäe “Great battles took place here during the Second World War,” Mark pointed out, when they passed the Sinimäed Hills. “In 1944 the Estonian soldiers who had been drafted into the German army together with a lot of volunteers from other countries pushed the Red Army back towards Narva.” – “Vaivara Sinimägede Museum is also in a short distance from here. It is a museum of military history focussing mostly on the same battles, called the Battle of Tannenberg Line. They tell you stories and you can touch and hold an artillery shell, or try your hand at sharpshooting,” added Nadia. 74

ters St. Pe

Vaivara Sinim

“The sea,” announced Alexander, looking out the window. “Sillamäe,” Mark stated. “Once a uranium mining town, it is now quite unique in Estonia. For decades the town was completely closed to civilians.” He rolled down the driver’s side window and fresh sea breeze filled the car. “Where are we going?” asked Maria cutely. “To the seaside, it is nice and rocky there,” answered Nadia without lifting her eyes from the screen. “We might even find some fossils, if we’re lucky.” “Fhossils?” repeated the girl, looking at her brother with big questioning eyes. “Creatures that lived a million years ago and have turned into stone,” Alexander explained. Maria was astonished; she had never seen anything turned into stone. 75

ägede Museu

In th e Va iva ra Si nim äg ed e Mus eu m yo u ca n or de r a gu id ed mi lit ar y tou r in Ru ssian, Es ton ian or En gli sh. Th e tou r pr ovid es a th or ou gh over vie w of th e hi st or y an d na tu re of th e ar ea.

Sillamäe

st pr es er ve d St ali nis t Si lla mä e sh ow s th e be 0s an d 50s in Es ton ia. ar ch ite ctu re of th e 194 u ca n mä e cu ltu ra l ce nt re yo Wh en br ow sin g th e Si lla d. e hi st or y of th e pe rio im me rs e yo ur se lf in th As a hi gh ly se cr et ur an iu m en ric hm en t fa cto ry wa s loc at ed in Si lla mä e du rin g th e So vie t er a, th e tow n wa s clo se d to civili an s.

Sillamäe Mus

eum

urg b s r e t e St. P

Valaste

Riga

184 km St. Petersburg d 32 km oro Narva-Ivang km Avinurme 84 Riga m k 4 5 1 u rt Ta Riga 396 km

Natural history book in stone at Valaste Boundless sea stretched beyond a golden meadow. They had passed Toila and arrived at the village of Valaste. They stopped in a tiny parking lot at the edge of the cliff that was like millions of years old natural history book in stone, revealing layers of different eras. The family got out of the car and took a deep breath of healthy sea air. They started to walk towards a loud noise and reached a twisting staircase where they could see the highest waterfall in the Baltic countries. The sight brought up something ancient deep inside them; they felt the desire to dance by a bonfire, nibble 77

Or u Pa rk in To ila wa s fo un de d in 1897.

Oru Park

in Toila

The high ligh ts of Oru Park inclu de the cast le squ are with its foun tain s, the Pavi lion of Nõi ame ts (Wit ches’ Woo ds), the cave of Hõb ealli kas (Silver Spr ing), the illum inat ed aven ues, the brid ges, a foun tain of fish es, the prom enad e and the pond s.

Silver Spring Cave in Toila

at berries and mushrooms, make weird grunting noises. A cloud of water particles glistened in red, green and blue hues, following the continuously cascading water. “Is it just me, or is it truly an enchanted place?” asked Nadia, gently rubbing Mark’s back. “It is not just you,” he smiled back and they were alone in the world. The moon melted into the sun, casting streaks of light that remained glowing across the blue expanse of the sky. Gentle, thirsty touches, kissing, passion. Just like the old days. “Behave now,” Alexander called his parents to order. “This is a public place, enough of the silliness!” Mark kissed his wife once more, just to tease. Nadia took some pictures of the children and then they retraced their steps. 78

Valley of the Pﾃｼ

hajﾃｵgi River in

Toila Oru Park

om th e A wa ter fa ll dr ops fr wh ich On tik a lim es ton e cli ff, lon g is pa rt of th e 1,1 00 km La ke om fr Ba lti c cli nt ex ten di ng of ﾃ僕a nd. La do ga to th e islan d s at th e Wa ter dr ops 33 me tre Va las te wa ter fa ll.

Valaste Waterfa ll

A lege nd tells that Kale vipo eg, the Esto nian nati onal hero, used to show er und er the Vala ste wat erfa ll.

I t is pa r ti cu la r ly pic tu r esq u e in w in te r d u r in g n or th w in d s, r em in d in g a ca s tle of ic e. 79

sburg r e t e P St.

Kukru se Kohtla Alutag use

Riga

223 km St. Petersburg d 70 km oro a Narva-Ivang kmRigRRaigiga 8 6 e rm u in Av Tartu 138 km Riga 380 km

Kukruse Polar Manor “Can we please go there?” begged Nadia, looking at Mark with big round eyes. “In Kukruse Polar Manor we can find out about the lifestyle of the Baltic German nobility AND try on their clothes. Pleeease!” – “All right, I guess we’ll drop all our important duties and go there to try on those new things – clothes, did you say?” he teased. “Wait, wait. What is this?” asked Alexander, grabbing the tablet from his mother, almost in tears. “A mine? A mine!? A mine!” The boy, obsessed with caves, had discovered that it was only a twenty minutes’ drive to Kohtla Mining Park. He was tempted: “This is it! No pompous costumes of the nobility, we’d rather don the miner’s habits and discover the underground 80

St. St. SPte.

Kukruse Po

lar Manor

world!” – “I don’t want to go under the ground, can we please stay above?” Maria put in shyly. “I am sure we can find a way to come to an agreement in this difficult situation. How about me going mining oil shale with Maria and you boys will go and enjoy the clothes of manor ladies? Or the other way round?” asked Nadia. “The other way round,” called Alexander and Maria. So it was settled. They headed south, dropped the girls at the posh Kukruse Polar Manor and then the boys drove straight on to Kohtla-Nõmme. Inside the manor the girls were welcomed by a blonde girl in a historic costume, introducing herself as Johanna, the great-great-granddaughter of a hired hand working for the Toll family, the former owners of the manor. “Can we try some clothes on, too?” asked Maria while Johanna was talking about the noble Toll family. “Manners, my dear,” reminded her mother. “But this is why we came here,” said Maria quite correctly. “Don’t worry, I can do both at the same time,” assured Johanna. “Let’s go, the room for 81

The Kukr use Polar Man or intro duce s the hist ory of the man or and the explorat ion trip to Sann ikov Lan d. Her e you can ride with a dog sled and a pola r kay ak. Sann ikov Lan d was a phan tom islan d in the Arc tic Ocea n that som e pola r explorer s, inclu ding Edua rd von Toll, the owne r of the Kukr use man or, belie ved to have seen . Nob ody ever foun d it and all the mem bers of an expe ditio n tryi ng to find the Sann ikov Lan d wen t missing in 1902.

The Min ing Mus eum lies abou t 8 metr es below the grou nd, it is abou t one kilom etre long and the insid e temp erat ure is abou t 9 degr ees (Celsius) above zero all year roun d. The und ergr ound dine r serves genu ine mine r’s lunc h.

trying on clothes is over there.” They walked along long corridors with high ceilings and bright lights until they reached a room with several dummies displaying festive costumes. Closet doors were opened and they gasped at the fabulous sight: there were frills and lace, petticoats, dresses, shoes, gloves, stockings and hats – all quite authentic. The three giggling girls began to try on all the wonderful garments, praising each others’ looks and prancing around in their finery.

At the same time Mark and Alexander were halfway to Kohtla-Nõmme. The boy was reading about the The mini ng park area mining park and then discovered that there were offe rs man y sigh ts, tours going underground every hour, but the last inclu ding the larg est one had just left. “Oh, don’t worry, I’ll bring you back exca vator in Europe here sometime,” Mark consoled the upset youngster with its buck et that and made a U-turn back towards Kukruse. “At least weig hs abou t 50 tons and a huge dum p we didn’t have to put on some silly clothes,” said Alexander, relieved in spite of his disappointment. “My truc k BelAZ. sentiments exactly,” his father replied. He phoned Nadia and asked: “We’re on our way back, how long will it take you?” – “Already? It’ll take us a while yet,” she giggled back. “Come over here, we look so beautiful.”

Kohtla Min

ing Park &

Museum

“It is even more beautiful here in the wintertime,” Johanna told Nadia and Mark when they were leaving. “If there is snow, you can ride a dog sleigh, the scenery is fantastic.” – “That means we have to come back next winter. I already promised Alex to bring him to the mine sometime.” – “Then I suggest you go to the Kiviõli Adventure Centre as well. There are the longest downhill ski slopes in Estonia and great snowboard runs that will give you an unforgettable experience,” Johanna happily told them. “Have a nice trip!” She hugged Nadia and Maria and stood there, waving goodbye to the departing car.

Which is th e scientific name of oil shale? A) Meningiti s B) Kukersite C) Carabite

st e he aps In th e wi nt er th e wa pa rk, ar e tu rn ed int o a sn ow th wh er e yo u ca n rid e wi sle dg e. sn ow tu be, sn ow bo ar d or

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270 km St. Petersburg d 117 km oro Narva-Ivang km Palamuse 51 Tartu 84 km Riga 326 km

Riga

As fishi ng ha s th ro ug ho ut ce nt ur ies be en a ma jor so ur ce of su bsist en ce fo r th e pe op le living by La ke Pe ipu s, th er e ar e alw ay s fishe rs sit tin g by th e ice ho les in th e wi nt er. Wh y no t try it?! Re me mb er to fin d ou t fir st if it is allow ed to go on th e ice.

The western shore of Lake Peipus “So, where to now?” Mark asked Nadia as she turned to her tablet once again. “Well, what if we drove through Jõhvi to Lake Peipus and then to Põltsamaa for the night? On our way we will pass near Alutaguse Adventure Park, Kuremäe Convent, Iisaku Museum, the lifestyle centre and woodcraft store in Avinurme, and Parish School Museum in Palamuse. Sounds reasonable?” she suggested. “Do you remember the time when my mother took you to Kuremäe?” Mark laughed. “I certainly do! It was a very strange place for the first meeting between a mother-in-law and a daughter-in-law, but I had a great time anyway,” Nadia 84

Alutaguse Adventur

e Park

fondly recalled the place Vera had chosen. “Looking at the hotels in Põltsamaa, there is a place called Carl Schmidt’s House that seems nice. I’ll book it,” she continued. Alexander and Maria were asleep on the back seat. Nadia held Mark by the hand and whispered: “Shall we do something today just the two of us?” – “Let’s take the children to Kuremäe?” – “I think it is a bit extreme if we sacrificed them to God? We can just lock them up in their hotel room.”

Iisaku Museum

Th e m us eu m di sp la ys a copy of th e olde st kn ow n pi ec e of kn it te d te xt ile in th e Ea st er n an d Nor th er n Eu rope. Iisak u Mus eu m in tr od uc es th e hi st or y of fir e fig ht in g am on gs t ot he r th in gs. Th e m us eu m exhi bi ts m or e th an 30,0 00 it em s!

Th e spr in g a t Ku r em ä e is sa id to h a ve cu r a ti ve pow e r s, so br in g a co n ta in e r for th e w a te r. so I t is even g popu la r a m on s th e vi sit or th a t p eop le for ofte n q u eu e th e w a te r!

Kuremäe Conv

Th e ga tes of th e con ve nt ar e op en an d yo u ca n tak e a wa lk to se e th e ever yd ay life of th e inh abita nt s of th e con ve nt.

fo un de d in 1891 Ku re mä e Co nven t wa s ian Or th od ox an d it is th e on ly Ru ss in Es ton ia. con ve nt st ill op er at ing

ent

In an hour they had reached Kauksi Beach. The children had woken up and began chattering again. “Are we still at the seashore?” Maria asked, sleepily rubbing her eyes when Mark stopped the car. “This is the Lake Peipus, my dear,” said Nadia. “Take your socks off and run to the beach. Alex, look after your sister.” The children obeyed at once and raced barefoot onto the sandy beach. “Alex, listen!” whispered Maria with awe and they listened. The sand made a strange noise – this was the singing sand of the Peipus Beach. The 86

Th e Ka uk si be ac h is a pe rfec t fa mi ly be ac h as th e wa ter de ep en s gr ad ua lly an d th er e ar en’ t ve ry ma ny pe op le. Wh ile th er e ar e ma ny nic e lit tle com mo n lod gin g ho us es ne ar Ka uk si, ca mping sit es ar e also availab le sh ou ld yo u pr efer ca mping.

Kauksi beach

uo us sa nd y be ac h Th e lo ng es t co nt in si to Va sk na rva ex te nd s fr om Ka uk e at er bi ke s avai la bl w ith bo at s an d w fo r re nt.

children ran off again, having fun with the squeaking sand under their feet. Maria touched the water with a toe and Alexander followed suit. “The water is so warm,” he said when he was in up to his knees. “Oh, it’s cold,” shivered Maria, complaining about cold as usual. Their parents were walking a bit further on, enjoying the light wind, soft waves and each other’s company. The sun was slowly sinking below the horizon. 87

m a a is u r i V a Id and c a fe s f o l re l fu t s wh e n a r u a r e st n eat y o u c a fo o d s d e li c i o u

of Peips Northern coast

i lake

A vin ur m e is th e ca pi ta l of wo od en va ts an d its ce nt ur ies old wo od cr aftin g tr ad iti on s ar e ha nd ed do wn th ro ug h th e ge ne ra tio ns. Yo u ca n bo th bu y wo od en ite m s an d m ak e yo ur ow n. 88

e rn and Th e n o r th sh o r e s o f so u th e r n ry u s a r e ve La k e Pe ip th e n o r th in t: n e r e f d if b e a u ti fu l th e r e a r e ch es an d sa n d y b e a K a u k si, to d u n e s u p o u th e r n s w h ile th e sh y o m re ma r sh o r e is I t is a n d w ild. g r oun d c a u se d by e in th e su bsid e n c pa r ts so u th e r n e. o f th e la k

me In workshops, everyone can try

some wood chip handicraf t.

Päinurme

JÕGEVA

Pisisaare

Adavere

Kuremaa

Painküla

Lustivere 75 PÕLTSAMAA Võisiku

Voore

Palamuse

Kaarepere

Esku

Kolga-Jaani

Emajõ

Ulila

Rannu

Riidaja Aakre Linna

36 Patküla

102

Palupera

62 TÕRVA 56

9 Õru

88 89

Mooste

VastseKuuste

Leevaku

Mammaste Saverna Tänassilma

PÕLVA

Kanepi

Põlgaste

Tilsi Leevi

Parksepa Osula

Kobela

Seļi Koikküla

Lüllemäe Tsooru

Navi

Väimela Kääpa

VÕRU

Sõmerpalu

ANTSLA

Karula Kaagjärve

Ruusa

Peri

Kuldre

VALGA

Zīle

Rasina

Ahja

Sangaste

Tsirguliina

116

Võnnu

Roiu Ülenurme

Keeni

Sooru

VALKA

Melliste

Kauksi

Valgjärve

108 78

Hummuli

118 117

Kambja

OTEPÄÄ 70 Sihva

Kavastu

Nõuni

Puka

Helme

Tammistu

Luunja

Maaritsa

Rõngu

Vana-Kuuste

Suislepa

104

TARTU 25 26

Nõo

23 ELVA

Soe

Tõrvandi Reola

Tõravere

Vehendi

Kolkja

Varnja

Kõrveküla

103

Meeri

Kureküla

Vara

130 Nõgiaru

Nina

Vedu

Puhja

Mustla

Äksi

Vorbuse

Ilmatsalu

Võrtsjärv

Koosa

Vasula

Kärevere

Leie

129

Lähte

Laeva

Alatskivi

Saadjärv

Lalsi

Kokora

Kaiavere

Tabivere

KALLASTE

Pala

Elistvere

Puurmani

Kodavere

MaarjaMagdaleena

Pikknurme

Kamari

Kasepää

Kääpa

Siimusti

14 76

Laiuse

Kurista

Kose

Nursi

Rõuge

Haanja

Ähijärve Viitina

Vastseliina

agiR

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Riga

rsbu e t e P . St

341 km St. Petersburg d 188 km oro Narva-Ivang km Palamuse 45 Tartu 62 km Riga 270 km

Bridges join two places into one Having taken quick look at the most important sights along the way – the old school museum, the church, the pharmacy and the watermill in Palamuse – they drove into the setting sun, approaching the town of Põltsamaa. Mark had passed the wheel to Nadia and was having a small nap, while the children were using the tablet for a while to watch the film Spring (Kevade in Estonian) that took place in the self-same Palamuse village. “How can this rascal be such a nice guy?” wondered Alexander about his favourite character 90

Palamuse O. Luts’s Parish

School Museum

Toots. He must have found something in common with the character. “It’s Põltsamaa, my dear,” Nadia jabbed a finger in Mark’s ribs. He jumped up and gave a great yawn. They could already see the main sight that the locals were so proud of: the red tower of St. Nicholas Church. They parked the car in the guesthouse parking lot, grabbed their luggage and entered the hotel. It looked very cosy inside: dark wood combined with red bricks, the lights dimmer than usual. “Welcome to Carl Schmidt House!” said a smiling lady at the reception.

Pa lam us e pa rish sc ho ol wa s bu ilt in 1873. Now ad ay s the y us e the au the nti c bu ild ing to int rod uc e the lat e 19t h cen tur y life in a pa rish sc ho ol on the ba sis of “Th e Sprin g”, a hu mo rou s sto ry by Oska r Lu ts.

Põltsamaa Ca

Th er e is mu ch to do an d se e in the ca stle cou rty ar d, wh er e yo u fin d the P õlt sa ma a Mus eu m an d Tou rism In for ma tio n Ce ntr e, the Wi ne Ce lla r an d the Fo od Mus eu m, Ce ntr al Es ton ian ar t ga lle ry ca lle d pART, ha nd icr af ts wo rk sh ops Kä sit eok od a an d P õlt sa ma a Kä sit öös elt si Vä rk stu ba an d a roo m displa yin g the his tor y of Es ton ian jou rn ali sm . Ple nty to se e reg ar dle ss of the fie ld of int er es t. 92

stle

“Well, kids, what would you like to do?” asked Mark after they had been shown to their rooms. “I would like to watch TV, have a snack and then go to bed,” Alexander named his plans. “Yes, let’s watch cartoons, I am also tired out,” Maria agreed. “Right, your mother and I will go out, so phone us if you need anything,” said Mark, sounding very determined. “Wash your teeth and behind the ears, and no fooling around outside your room,” Nadia ordered and hugged them. Then they left arm-in-arm. They closed the door and heaved a sigh of relief: “Freedom!” – “I heard that,” Alexander said with a touch of reproach in his voice.

Mark and Nadia changed and went out, intending to visit a famous wine cellar. “By car?” asked Mark, dressed in a black suit. “Only if you will drive it back?” – “That’s what I thought.” So they strolled slowly along the quiet street, the sun still touching the horizon. Mark looked at his wife, her burgundy red cocktail dress glowing against her pale skin and long dark hair, and whispered: “You are divine!” – “Come now, mister businessman,” Nadia said, glancing slyly at her husband. They had reached the bridge. They were coming to a meeting of minds again. The rest of the night was like a film: a romantic walk in the castle ruins, hot glances, wine tasting, smooth and soft touches, dinner, more wine, retreating to their room, inviting kisses, crackling logs in the fireplace.

In the morning they woke refreshed, then had breakfast in the restaurant and made plans. “While you were sleeping soundly, I had an idea,” Nadia said and showed them her idea, tracing the route on the tablet screen. “We could go to the Elistvere Wildlife Park, and then drop the kids off at Vudila Playland while we go and visit the villages by the Lake Peipus.” – “I particularly like the part where you said we’d drop the kids off,” Mark replied. They finished breakfast and packed their bags again. Soon they all gathered at the black SUV, got in and drove away. Before leaving Põltsamaa the girls asked to stop at the local rose garden, one of the largest in Europe with about a thousand different varieties on show.

n e twin tow Which is th in Latvia? aa of Põltsam a A) Daugav B) Cēsis C) Skrunda

a Nice an d sm all P õlt sa ma at tra cts visito rs wi th its s, pa rk s, th e islan d of ro se ge s. th e river an d wh ite br id

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sburg r e t e P St. 319 km St. Petersburg d 163 km oro Narva-Ivang km Palamuse 16 Tartu 25 km Riga 270 km

The girl who could talk to snakes They went back the way they had come last night. “The ground is getting awfully wet,” Nadia remarked when it was beginning to look more like wetland on both sides of the road, and they had passed three lakes. “Are there any rabbits?” Maria asked her mother about their next destination. – “Of course there are!” – “What about foxes?” – “There should be.” – “And bears?” – “Those, too.” – “Would a bear like to become friends with me?” – “Of course he would, you are such a nice girl.” Maria was satisfied. “By the way, this wildlife park was originally a sanctuary for animals that had lost their mothers or had been injured. Now there are lots of descendants of those animals.” 95

“The Ma n Wh o Spo ke Sna kish” by An dru s Kivirä hk has bec ome a mod ern leg end. The boo k tells a sto ry abo ut Est onia ns livi ng in the woo ds and con trolling ani ma ls by spe aki ng the lan gua ge of sna kes. Unfortu nat ely the use ful ski ll was for got ten wh en people moved fro m the woo ds to live in village s.

d li fe E li s tve r e Wil ce s Pa r k in tr od u a ls th e w ild a n im n ia li vi n g in E s to . bit s a n d th ei r h a

They bought tickets and went in to look around on their own, strolling around the park. They saw squirrels, deer, elk and reindeer, a fox, rabbits, a wild boar and finally a bear, peering out from behind a bush. Maria was in the seventh heaven, she hissed in the snake language, inviting all the animals to visit her in St. Petersburg. Then they entered a building where they saw a hundred different species of rodents in glass cages. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Diggers,â&#x20AC;? mumbled Alexander to himself when he saw three rather suspicious-looking degus trying to escape.

Inhabitan ts fox, lynx a of Elistvere Anim al Park: nd wild b oar

One of the largest lakes of this area is Saadj채rv

Reindeer in Elisver

e Animal Park

Vudila whole family playland

Re se rve en tir e da y er e fo r Vu di la, fo r th w ill be lo ts to do ily: fo r th e w ho le fa m tu be tr am po lin es, po ols, an d slid es, m in i go lf also pa in tb all. Yo u ca n fin d m or e pe ac eful co rn er s to ta ke a s br ea k on th e gr as ea l be fo re ha vi ng a m . at th e Vu di la bi st ro

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sburg r e t e P St. 311 km St. Petersburg d 154 km oro Narva-Ivang km Palamuse 50 Tartu 42 km Riga 284 km

A tale about onions, cucumbers and fish Mark and Nadia dropped their kids off at Vudila, In the winter the where the two ran off at once with a 50 Euro note Peipus fishermen their father had given them. The young couple headed used to gather on the east to Lake Peipus to have a look at the typical lake ice for weeks, village life there. Those villages had already since the forming small fishing 17thâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;18th centuries been inhabited by Russian Old villages. They fished Believers who had escaped religious persecution in in the dark and in the Russia and crossed the lake to settle there. As a result daylight, they talked, a few unique one-street villages appeared, long rows exchanged experiences of buildings lining the road, their inhabitants surviving and cooked there. on centuries-old traditions, onions and fish. The whole Often they even opened 99

temporary pubs.

Samovar on Onion

Road

Th e tr ad it io ns of th e Old Belie ve rs in clud e m an y pe cu lia ri ti es, fo r exam ple, th ey dr in k te a fr om a sa m ovar, w hi ch alw ay s lo ok s ve ry fe st ive. e A te a co nc en tr at p is po ur ed in a cu er at w an d th en ho t e is ad de d fr om th e th m ai n pa rt of sa m ovar. Sug ar a, isn’ t pu t in th e te in bu t th ey ho ld it en th d th e m ou th an dr in k th e te a.

area was called the Onion Road. “We should really come back in winter,” said Mark with enthusiasm. “They organise ice fishing trips on amphibian ATVs here, can you imagine that? – “Wow, fishing and ATVs – what else could a princess dream of?” retorted Nadia mockingly. When they reached Varnja village, Nadia slowed down to have a closer look at the fascinating old houses and old ladies working hard in the cucumber and onion Onion braid

100

p le li vi n g to n ia th e p eo s E d n ou r n as a A ll es a r e k n ow g a ll vi e id es in th e la k g r ow e r s a n d r e b m cu cu d n mm e r g oo d on io n a . In th e su s r e k a m h s sh sm ok ed fi w it h ou t a fi y b s oe g d t! n ot a w ee k en . C h ec k it ou or on io n fa ir

Kolkja Museum of

fields. The ladies eyed the grand SUV curiously. Small children were running about, men had gathered in porches to spend a relaxing afternoon in each other’s company. “This is so laid-back, I would like to live in a place like this someday,” Nadia said as a tip to Mark when they passed the local cemetery. By the same road they passed through Kasepää and Kolkja villages that form a sort of a holy trinity at the lakeside together with Varnja. 101

Old Believers

Th e cu ltu re of Es to ni an fa rm er s ha s m in gled w it h an th at of th e G er m d an es ta te ow ne rs th e Ru ssia n Old g a Belie ve rs, cr ea tin t un iq ue en vi ro nm en in th e re gi on .

Alatskivi Castle

Th e A la tski vi m an or offe rs w on de rful dé co r an d pi ct ur esqu e vi ew s as w ell as ft s va ri ou s ha nd ic ra , ile xt w or kshops (te ). fe lt, clay, st uc co is e Th e m an or ho us a m in ut e copy of le th e Balm or al Ca st in S co tla nd.

Next they reached Alatskivi manor house and park that was a sharp contrast to the lakeside villages. The manor house was a neo-gothic building with fantastic towers – a hunting lodge fit for a king. Mark and Nadia went for a long walk in the park and then headed back to Vudila to pick up the children and drive on to Tartu. “Well, how was it?” asked Mark the children when they were back in their car. “Fantastic,” they replied in unison. Alexander added: “This is probably one of the coolest places I’ve ever visited.” – “Me, too,” Maria agreed. “Somebody working there said that there is a lake with a place that is worth visiting close by,” said Alexander rather vaguely. “An Ice Age Centre,” Maria explained. “They talk about mammoths and other such things.” – “I think we can spare some time for this,” said Mark, glancing at his wrist with no watch on, and so they went there.

102

The North – cold and rough A white concrete building stood on the bank of Lake Saadjärv, blending beautifully with the lakeside environment. This building was said to conceal an immense treasure. This treasure was of course the knowledge about the ice age; the way glaciations appeared and developed. Inside they found mammoths, sabre-toothed cats, huge elk with immense horns, and hairy ice-age humans. One of those people introduced himself: “Hello, I’m Tarmo. Welcome to the ice age!” After the family had introduced themselves, Tarmo continued: “An ice age actually means the cooling of the climate. The cold period lasted so long that glaciers were formed. Imagine if it were freezing cold all the year round and for a thousand years!” – “If I were very small, I would eat only ice cream,” dreamed Maria who had a sweet tooth. Tarmo showed the guests round the exhibition, chatting and joking. “Gratification at last!” shouted Alexander when Tarmo took them to an artificial cave. “He loves caves,” explained Nadia when her son disappeared into the depths. While the kids had fun in the cave, the bearded fellow told their parents about the eco-friendly lifestyle, footprints and a better world. When they had been to all the floors, they said goodbye to Tarmo the Ice Age man, and were off to Tartu – the largest small town in Estonia.

103

Whe re d id th e e la st m am m ot h liv in Eu rope? Wha t effe ct d id th e ic e ag e ha ve ur e on Es to ni an cu lt a an d re lie f? Is in g? ne w ic e ag e co m s er Fin d th e an sw to all th es e qu es ti on s at th e ! I ce A ge Ce nt re

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g 338 km r u b s r e t e m St. P rod 184 k o g n a Iv a v Nar 0 km Otepää 4 km 65 Sangaste 89 km a Valga-Valk m Riga 244 k

Riga

Captivated by good thoughts The sky was covered with threatening dark clouds when the black SUV reached the smooth green-andgolden meadows on the banks of the River Emajõgi. The area was getting more densely populated, meaning that they were approaching their destination. A large drop of rain splashed against the windscreen, and when they passed the town limit sign the sky opened up and it started pouring down. “Luckily we are nearly there,” said Nadia to soothe herself and turned on the windscreen wipers that sloshed away the torrent of water. A roadside sign read To the centre, pointing 104

y s a lo t to a lw a is e at Th e r e in Ta r tu d o a n d se th e y e a r. f o e m ti any th e m m e r it is la r u s e th n I ig h ly popu h e th f o sc e n e Da y s. H a n s e a ti c Tartu Town Hall

them to the right at the big St. Peter’s Church, and they drove down to the river valley. The street was lined with old and slightly funny wooden houses. At the roundabout they headed towards the street that took them across the bridge. “We are in Tartu,” Mark assured his family. “Goodness, how cute,” squealed Nadia with delight, seeing the tiny Tartu town hall square. They passed in between the marketplace and a department store, driving towards a shopping centre straight ahead. They were supposed to spend the night in Dorpat Hotel right next to it. The hotel had been named after the old German name of Tartu. 105

Do no t m iss th e t Far m er’s Mar ke us at th e L õu na ke sk ng in Ta rt u, offe ri va ri ou s or ga ni c ts an d fa rm pr od uc fr om Es to ni a. For exam ple, yo u ca n it h bu y ga rlic ja m w , m or an ge, on io n ja fir ne ed le sy ru p, et c!

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Nadia and Mark’s room at the hotel had a view of the River Emajõgi that was flowing under their windows. On the opposite bank of the river they could see a single man braving the torrential rain and fishing. “The weather forecast says that the sky will clear by the evening,” Nadia told them. “I am a little tired. Maybe we can have something to eat and then have a nap while we wait for the weather to clear?” They all found it a good idea and together they went to the fine hotel restaurant. “Trout fillet for the lady and a glass of white Spanish, steak with plum sauce for the gentleman with red Spanish, and Moomin pasta with ice cream cocktail and Karlsson’s meat balls with fresh orange juice for the little ones,” repeated the waiter their orders and disappeared. “Who did he mean by little ones?” asked 106

Alexander, frowning. “Me, because I’m small. Even smaller than you are,” explained Maria. “But if I’m not little, then you mightn’t be either. This is just the image they have created of us: they make us less important, so it would be easier to deal with us,” chatted Alexander away. After lunch they went back to their rooms and agreed that after a nap they would go out to look at the town. Nadia and Mark went to bed and fell asleep almost immediately as they were exhausted and the splatter of rain was so calming. The children nodded off in front of the TV that showed – surprisingly enough – even children’s channels in Russian. When they woke an hour later the sky above Tartu was nearly clear. They stretched, changed and went out. A walking path followed the riverbank towards the old town. They crossed the road near the pedestrian bridge and found themselves in the town hall square. “Tartu is such a small town that everything is within a walking distance here,” explained Mark in front of the art museum. This house had once belonged to Barclay de Tolly, a famous Russian general. In the course of time the

On e of th e ni ce st sy m bo ls of Ta rt u is th e Ki ssin g S tu de nt s fo un ta in in fr on t of th e To w n H all.

The Kissing Students

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t Ta rt u is th e m os bi cy cle-fr ie nd ly Yo u to w n in Es to ni a. ca n sa fe ly cr ui se th ro ug h th e en ti re an d to w n by bi cy cle s m vi si t th e m us eu ne ar Ta rt u.

building had slanted to one side and it was called the local Pisa Tower. As usual, there was the statue of two students kissing under an umbrella in the little fountain in front of the town hall. The family passed the town hall and walked to the park behind it. Several groups of youths, some with open beer bottles, were sitting on the benches and talking. “This is a park dedicated to Nikolai Pirogov, a Russian surgeon,” Nadia read from an app on her tablet. “In the summertime it is a picnic area where it is allowed to drink lower strength alcohol (up to 6%). This is a traditional socialising place for students. They say that some of the good thoughts of Tartu originate from here. Over there is the main building of the oldest university in the Baltic countries,” she pointed at the large building with pillars on the right. They walked on along Ülikooli Street. “By the way, there is a toy museum here. Are you interested?” Nadia asked the children. Their answer was obvious. The toy museum had a wonderful exhibition with hundreds of toys from different periods of time: you could see the toys of farm or town children, paper toys, wooden toys, indoor and outdoor toys, toys for girls and for boys, toys that didn’t move or could be wound up, puppets, dolls and pictures of toys. The greatest fun – at least for Maria – was the play area where they could play with lots of lovely toys, supervised by a friendly museum employee. After leaving the museum they decided to take a stroll around Toomemägi Park. This was the site of the ancient stronghold, later surrounded by a settlement. 108

In this park they could see various monuments to people who had important roles in the history of the town. There were also ruins of an old cathedral and they could admire a view over a large part of the old town. “Goodness, how sweet,” said Nadia again. “Such a small and welcoming place of Tartu Universit y with friendly faces everywhere. And the nature is fascinating.” – “You are now talking about the spirit of Tartu, this is what it’s called,” Mark was able to tell them. That vague something that adds the characteristic touch to the town is called the spirit of Tartu. “Somewhere in this park – over there – is an observatory,” Alexander read off the tablet screen and pointed at their next destination. They started walking In Ta rt u yo u in that direction. Tartu Observatory was once one also fin d th e of the major astronomy centres in Europe. This was fa vo ur it e w at er the place where they measured the distance of a star ce nt re of fa m ily from the solar system for the first time, among other pe op le – Aur a findings. On their way they crossed the famous Angel w at er ce nt re, w he re ch ild re n Bridge with its view of Lossi Street with a number ca n ha ve fu n in of educational institutions, and finally reached the th e tu be slid es observatory, overlooking the Pirogov Park and the w hi le th ei r town hall once again. From the other side of the hill pa re nt s re la x in they descended to Vallikraavi Street and then walked th e sa un as or back to the town centre. In front of a restaurant they sw im a fe w la ps saw two big men in bronze sitting and talking – these in th e po ols. were the writers Eduard Vilde and Oscar Wilde.

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“Let’s turn left and go on a bit: right there by the statue of Pirogov is Café Werner – one of the most popular cafes in Estonia, possibly serving the best coffee and cake in Tartu,” told Nadia excitedly. “Let’s go, I want something sweet,” Maria agreed. The boys had no choice but to go along. After a couple of minutes’ walk they were back in the familiar place. They went in, joined the queue – there is always a queue in that café – and studied the fluffy and artistic cakes behind the display cabinet glass. Two nice girls were busy behind the counter, taking turns at the coffee machine and the cake stands. “Hello,” said one of them with a smile when Mark and Nadia reached the counter. “Hello,” Mark replied and asked: “Could we have two slices of Napoleon cake, one of Republican cake and one mango-and-cream cheese roll, please. We would also like a latte and a mocha, and a glass of apple juice and another of plum juice.” The girl smiled sweetly and hurried off. Their order was on the counter in a few moments. “That’ll be twelve Euros and sixty cents, please.” They sat down and understood at once why the café was so famous. There was a very nice atmosphere there, the cakes were delicious and the latte was the best Nadia had ever tasted. The children were smacking their lips in unison. After their short trip across the river they returned to the hotel. The children were chased back to bed to read books or watch TV. The parents decided to go out and experience the night life in Tartu. They changed and set off once again by the riverside walk towards famous 110

Tartu Old Town

Rüütli Street with bars frequented by a lot of young people. In the distance they could see a large group of people, about fifty all in all. “Is it a demonstration?” asked Nadia. “No, they are just having fun,” replied Mark. The couple preferred to stay away from the group and entered a wine bar named Vein & Vine. They were greeted by a bohemian atmosphere, subdued noise and two friendly barmen. “A carafe of red house wine please,” ordered Mark and received a one litre carafe with wine and two glasses in exchange for his cash. They sat by the window, drank wine, smoked and watched the passersby – there were quite a few – and talked and talked. When Nadia went to the ladies’ room, Mark took out his wallet, pulled out a business card and threw it into the bin next to the table. He was feeling great, a bit drunk and invincible. With blurry eyes he looked at his life: he was married to a dazzlingly beautiful and spirited woman, and together they were raising two unique and wonderful children; he had a job that fulfilled all his hopes and dreams of success and ideals of saving 111

the world. Right there and then he realised that out of selfish pessimism and stupidity he had staked his happiness on a roulette table. He withdrew his bet – he was entirely satisfied with what he had got already. When Nadia returned from the ladies’ room, he got up, hugged and kissed her and said: “It’s time to go.” – “Fine,” she replied with a girlish smile. They left half the carafe on the table and walked back through the noisy Tartu old town and then along the peaceful riverside back to the hotel. In the morning the couple woke up refreshed and in a good mood, Nadia was dozing in Mark’s arms and he was stroking her hair. Soon they started to hear ominous whispering, giggling and scratching behind the door. “We can hear you,” she called and went to open the door, but there was nobody behind the door. “Strange, I thought I heard something,” Nadia wondered playfully when she once again heard giggling behind the corner. She closed the door and kept a watchful eye on the hallway. A moment later Maria poked her little head out from behind the corner and the children were discovered. “Did you think you could fool your old Mom like this?” Nadia said teasing, took Maria by the hand and led them to their room: “Come, I’ll plait your hair!” “Yesterday I read a booklet I found on the table. Something for tourists, I am sure,” told Alexander. “It said that we should certainly visit the AHHAA Science Centre. As it happens, it is right next to our hotel.” Mark was still in a great mood and, happy that his son 112

was interested in useful attractions, said: “Of course we will go, it is actually one of the main sights in Tartu! Only after breakfast, I need to recover a little strength.”

Under whic h name wa s Tartu first mentioned in the Russian chronicles?

In the lobby of the science centre the children A) Derpt ran straight to a huge dining table, climbed on B) Chudev chairs and raised cups that were larger than their heads. Nadia took pictures of them while C) Jurjev Mark went to buy tickets. Then they entered the technology room and Alexander noticed something familiar in the ceiling: “That is a Hoberman Sphere. I’ve got one at home, too, only this here is much bigger.” The next display item truly wowed him: it was an elevator that took you down to the depths under the ground or up in space (it didn’t make much difference to Alexander whether to be a miner or an astronaut). He wished he had something like that at Wh en lea vin g Ta rtu home, although perhaps on a bit smaller scale to fit yo u mi gh t dr op into his room. Maria spent a few minutes staring into by the ha nd icr aft s a hole with a glass cover through which you could see wo rk sh op in the old Australia. She waved gladly to her new friends down pu b bu ild ing in Uh ti, there who waved back and then disappeared. They wh ere yo u can ma ke probably went for a swim with kangaroos. a cup or a bu tto n Then they went to the room of living nature where they could watch ants moving about incessantly, digging and building their nest. They were just in time to witness the hatching of a chick in an incubator. Nadia was very taken with an aquarium filled with colourful fish species from the Red Sea. Nature was often a great source of inspiration for her work.

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fro m cla y, lea rn to ma ste r he rbs, or ma ke can dy or rag do lls. It is a nic e ren ova ted bu ild ing wi th wo nd erful people!

Th e I lm at sa luKä re ve re bi rd w at ch in g tr ai l is 5. 2 ki lo m et re s lo ng an d ea si ly tr avelle d even by ch ild re n. Th er e ar e five st ops on th e w ay w he re yo u ca n re st yo ur fe et an d even co ok sa usag es on a fire.

A few miles, a few museums Leaving the centre they blew goodbye kisses to Tartu, got in the car and continued on their way. “Mrs. Guide!” – “Yes, Mr. Guide?” – “What’s our next destination and which road should we take to get there?” – “Our current agenda includes Ilmatsalu-Kärevere bird watching trail, Estonian Agricultural Museum in Ülenurme, and Estonian Aviation Museum close to it,” sounded Nadia like a real tour guide. She continued: “A question to the wider audience: would you rather go hiking and watch a hundred and twenty bird species, or learn

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about the history of Estonian agriculture, or look at super cool and authentic aircraft models?” – “Planes,” voted Alexander. “Planes,” Mark agreed. “Planes,” Maria followed suit. “Planes it is then, but please-please-please can we drop by at the agricultural museum as well? It’s on our way and I would really like to go, especially if we aren’t going hiking,” Nadia begged with her irresistible puppy look. – “Well, once you beg so nicely, of course we will,” Mark promised. “Yay!” she cried out sweetly and kissed him on the cheek. Estonian Agricultural Museum is located at historic Ülenurme Manor Estate just a few kilometres from Tartu. Nadia was most impressed by the achievements of female tractor drivers on display. “Only few women had completed a training course for tractor drivers before World War II but nearly 800 “members of the weaker sex” were ploughing fields with heavy 115

Museum

In th e A gr ic ul tu ra l Mus eu m yo u ca n rm tr y di ffer en t fa m eu us ta sk s. Th e m offe rs a w id e ra ng e of ac ti vi ti es fo r ever yo ne fr om io n fu rn it ur e re st or at to plou gh in g.

machinery during the Soviet period,” she read and flexed her bicep. “Hard work!” – “Guess who works really hard? Bees,” announced Alexander, who had just returned from seeing a bee-keeping exhibition. “That is all they ever do – work! Like robots.” Mark was fascinated by the museum, he studied some items quite closely and mumbled to himself, imagining being a farmer in linen pants and birch bark shoes with a straw hat, braving the scorching sun while harvesting rye, and relaxing on the veranda afterwards, looking back at all the long day’s work with satisfaction. The open-air exposition and the hangars at the aviation museum made their heads spin: a MiG, a Saab, a Tupolew, and lots of other types of planes from grey fighters to colourful bombers and passenger aircraft had been allotted spaces in the museum. “The first air show in Estonia took place in nearby Tartu in 1912,” said the museum guide, leading the family from a Mirage to a Saab, and on to an Iskra plane. In an exhibition building they saw a large collection of 116

model planes that Maria found extremely appealing because of their size. “If I were smaller – about the size of a mouse – I could fly over the Neva River with my mice friends. On that plane there,” she pointed at a model of a plane which the first Estonian female pilot Inna Roostfeld used to fly. It goes without saying that the original was times bigger than the model, and it did fly.

Estonian Aviation

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eu m di sp la ys Th e A vi at io n Mus ig in al fu ll-si ze m or e th an 40 0 or ne s. Yo u ca n even an d m od el ai rp la e plan es an d en te r so m e of th nd. ha ve a lo ok ar ou 117

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Riga

rg u b s r e t St. Pe rg 363 km u b s r e t e P km St. orod 210 g n a Iv a v r Na m Tartu 25 k m 5k Otepää 2 m Riga 217 k

The fragrance of pure nature The black SUV rolled on towards Lake Võrtsjärv – the largest body of water in continental Estonia – but their destination was not the lake itself, but the town Elva, and Otepää further on. On their way they passed a sign that pointed to Luke Manor. “In addition to the lovely main building there is a park with cascading ponds, decorative elms and a lime tree labyrinth that make it one of the most picturesque places in the area,” read Nadia on the tablet screen while the sign had long been swallowed by a cloud of dust in their wake. 118

Luke Manor and Ma

nor Park

They reached the nice little town of Elva at lunchtime. They stopped next to the railway station, stretched their legs and took deep breaths of wonderful summer air. Once again Nadia took out her tablet and read: “The railway station is the heart of Elva, the settlement developed around it. Nowadays the once popular town for summer holidays has become a hiking centre: it is located in the midst of pine woods with several hiking trails and little lakes. The area is bisected by sandybanked Elva River that can be used for canoeing.” “Now on to Otepää,” said Mark when everybody had snapped their safety belts on, and turned the key in the ignition. Now they sped through interminable grasslands. Fields of crops alternated with lush meadows in a tight patchwork – all as flat as a penny piece rolled smooth on the rails under the train. “Ahem! Mark? We have lost our way somewhat,” noted Nadia when they came to Rõngu. “But this is also marked on the map with a small point,” she found, 119

m a n or Th e Lu k e th e h o u s e w it h g pa r k su r r o u n d in h te s t is th e br ig e je w e l in th id y llic r e g io n . Th e c o tt a g e g a r d e n e r’s or in th e m a n li k e pa r k lo o k s ead a g in g e r br h o u s e.

A gr ea t fish an d ha nd ic ra ft s fa ir ta ke s plac e e an nu ally by Lak Võ rt sj är v. Th e la ke is fa m ou s fo r it s la rg e ee l st oc ks. Ee ls ar e de lic io us an d ve ry nu tr it io us fish!

Pinewood

Th e su rr ou nd in gs of El va offe r exce lle nt hi ki ng s tr ai ls an d va ri ou : op en ai r ac ti vi ti es , ca no ei ng, fishi ng hu nt in g, ar ch er y . an d m an y ot he rs Th e R õn gu ba ke ry is an im po rt an t st op fo r an yb od y tr avellin g on Vi a H an se at ic a. Th ey se ll ha nd m ad e nd ch oc olat e, bu ns, ha s, pi es, ch ee se cu rd y! m bu rg er s… Yu m

s in Elva

tapping on the screen. “There is the Rõngu bakery, juice factory and a lovely church, all in sight of one another, look!” she said and pointed at the church tower. “Let’s grab some hand pies,” suggested Mark. “We can have a snack before arriving at Otepää.” Everybody liked the idea, so they drove on to the bakery and smelled the tempting aroma of freshly baked bread. They passed some old ladies chatting and leaning on their basketed bikes outside the bakery. “Oh, tourists,” they heard one of the old ladies say to another, pleasantly surprised. The aroma was twice as strong inside. “Hello, we would like… Children, what would you like? Two butter buns, meat hand pies and… What? Crumpets – two crumpets, please,” said Mark to the saleswoman and added: “Nice place you have here.” – “We do indeed, and very peaceful, too – it’s just that the young people want to get away from here, go to the city,” she sighed while putting the pastries into a bag. – “Well, I would rather leave the city and move here,” said Nadia and was surprised at how strongly she felt about that. She had grown quite attached to country life. 120

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Lake Pühajärv (Holy Lake)

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Otepää is a para dise in the wint er. You can enjo y kilom etre s of unto uche d snow, fros ted tree s and prim eval silen ce. The mos t fam ous skiin g cent res are at Kuut sem ägi and Väik e Mun amä gi hills, while the cross-co untr y trails in Tehvandi and Käär iku are loved by both begi nner s and Olym pic cham pion s.

Otepää in Winter

Playful old hills “Now to Otepää?” Mark repeated the question he had already asked a while ago. And that was where they were heading to. The road began to rise and fall, twist and turn, which meant they had reached the Estonian “Himalayas”. “These hills are familiar,” said Mark, who had spent quite a few winters in ski camps at Otepää in his teens. He had been a talented skier when he was young, particularly in free-style crosscountry skiing, but his sporting days were over when he injured his ankle coming down a hill. When they arrived in Otepää and stopped at the only traffic

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In th e tr ea su ry of th e O te pä ä Win te r S Mu s eu m y ou por ts ca n s ee th e m ed a ls a n d pri z es by Es to n ia n sp or tsm en, w a tc w on h th e fo rm a ti sn ow fla k e in on of a s lo w m ot io n a n d ra ce a g a in ch a m pio n s. A s t sk ii n g m a z in g h ow im por ta n t sk ii n g is to Es to n ia n s!

Otepää Winter

Spor ts Museum

lights in the town, Mark’s thoughts drifted to those days in his youth and he failed to notice that the lights had changed – he was recalling the days full of the shouts of his instructors, the whistling of wind and the whisper of snow under his skis. Skiing against the wind had felt like rubbing your face with sandpaper. A jab in his ribs brought him back; he switched the gears and drove on with a nostalgic grin on his face. “By the way, the biggest number of Estonian Olympic heroes live in 123

Ot epää offe rs so m et hi ng fo r ever yo ne: bo th th e yo un g an d th e old ca n ha ve fu n in th e Ot epää Adven tu re Pa rk an d th en re la x in th e Pü ha jä rve Spa, w he re yo u ca n en jo y m ar ve llo us spa tr ea tm en ts.

this town – there are Shmigun, Veerpalu, and Mae…” Mark listed the Winter Olympics medallists living in Otepää, Estonia’s winter capital. “You know, that pie was like a drop in the ocean. Let’s find a place to eat,” suggested Nadia. “They recommend Café L.U.M.I. which is close by, or GMP Clubhotel restaurant which has won Best Service Award of Valga County, and is located at the shore of Lake Pühajärv.” – “Surely we’ll go to the lakeside, I bet it’s worth it,” decided Mark.

Pühajärve

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A true sportsman never uses prohibited substances It was definitely worth it. The beautiful view from the restaurant windows and the truly fine service made their lunch a wonderful experience. Waitress Margit skilfully delivered their order and found a personal approach to all the visitors. “Pancakes? Of course we do pancakes. Would you like them with strawberry jam and ice cream?” she asked, when Maria, who was usually very shy with strangers, asked her about pancakes for dessert. She was happy to tell Nadia and Mark about the sights in Otepää and its immediate vicinity: “The first place you should visit is the Tehvandi viewing platform. Fascinating views, just fascinating. And then we naturally have that – over there, do you see?” she pointed at the view from the window. “Lake Pühajärv. You should definitely go boating, that is truly food for your soul! Then there is a wonderful castle and fields of rye at Sangaste – 125

s and cafe

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about twenty kilometres south from here – and about twenty more kilometres south there are Helme caves,” at which point Alexander’s eyes lit up. “And we have Barclay de Tolly Museum.” Nadia got excited at the last suggestion, because the Napoleonic Wars were one of her favourite historical periods. But first they decided to go and relax at Lake Pühajärv after lunch. They rented a boat and a friendly man at the boat rental offered that his teenage son accompanied them without any extra charge. “Oh, no, there is no need,” Nadia tried to refuse politely, but the lad insisted: “Please, I would really like to come – I’ll get rowing exercise and could tell you some great stories in the meanwhile. What could be better?” Mark liked his enthusiasm and they took the boy along. The boy rowed the boat and talked: “There are all kinds of stories about the creation of Lake Pühajärv: the water in the lake is said to be the tears of a woman mourning her five sons killed in a war. The five islands are 126

said to be their burial mounds. Another legend says that it is a blessing of the good Lord, or – vice versa – a punishment to the local people. Whichever it is, the place has been regarded as holy for thousands of years. Even His Holiness the Dalai Lama gave the lake his blessing after Estonia re-gained independence.” He paused for a short while, allowing the passengers to look around and get the feel of the place. “Close by is a spring called Armuallikas, meaning the Love Spring. The legend says that those who drink its water on midsummer night find great and lasting love. I see that you have already drunk from it,” he remarked, eyeing Mark and Nadia listening to him attentively in each others’ arms. They smiled, looked at each other, smiled again and then Mark said: “We don’t need any doping.” The children giggled and blushed. “Mark and Nadia were kissing in the tree…,” Maria sang bashfully an old tune of hers. When they got back to the shore they thanked the boatman and especially his son, left a large tip, said goodbye and headed for the highly recommended Tehvandi viewing tower. The view opening from the top of the tower was breathtaking. They could see forests extending for kilometres, slashed by lines of highways. Drowsy pillows of clouds floated lazily across the sky, and our heroes rested their eyes and feet.

fe st ival c classi ca l m usic ti an m ro al nu an es Th e ld on Lei go Lak he is ic us M e Lei go Lak w.lei go.e e ne ar Ot epää. w w 127

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Together forever “Next the caves, right?” asked Alexander almost casually when they started to climb down from the viewing platform. “Yes, yes, we’ll go now,” his father replied. “But first we will pay our respects to one of the greatest generals the Russian army has ever had.” He glanced at Nadia who smiled encouragingly. “If it weren’t for Barclay de Tolly, the world would be a very different place today, it would be much more French.” – “Yes, because Napoleon Bonaparte was no fool. If there hadn’t been this capable general, Russia would have capitulated despite the incomplete victories of the French like a mouse bitten by a rat,” Nadia put in.

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They stopped at Jõgeveste where a track in the woods led them to a beautifully decorated white stone mausoleum. It looked magnificent and extremely A classi ci st gloomy, especially inside. A staircase led down to m au so le um ce le br at es the crypt. At the far end of it they could see two th e ac hi evem en ts magnificently decorated sarcophagi – one with the of G en er al Fie ld , embalmed body of Barclay de Tolly, and the other M ar sh al de To lly e w ho also le ad th of his wife. There was also an altar. They paid their ps Ru ssia n tr oo respects silently, just taking it all in. Even the children Napoleo n at were quiet. In silence they returned to the car. “Caves?” ag ai ns t th e be gi nn in g of said Alexander to remind them their next destination. th th e 19 ce nt ur y.

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Sanctuary The landscape was typically Estonian once again: flat like a pancake. They drove towards Tõrva. Nadia read on the screen: “We have arrived in a region historically called Mulgimaa. The local farmers were very rich thanks to the fertile soil and they were called the Mulks. The name derives from a Latvian word mulks denoting a stupid person. I suppose Latvians envied their wealthy neighbours.”

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They entered a small town and Nadia continued her introduction to the area. “This town is called Tõrva and this gadget here says that there is a fine pub called Musta Kassi Pubi – namely Black Cat Pub. There is also a crafts guild founded by two enterprising women who challenged the economic crisis by setting up a business of making national costumes and souvenirs. They continue to this day.” – “Enterprising spirit helps you reach your goal,” admitted Mark. “Tell me about the caves, too, I want to know where I am sticking my head in,” Alexander asked his mother, so she read out: “Helme Caves are located close to the ruins of the Helme Castle of the Livonian Order. They had probably been dug about a thousand years ago, providing shelter from war hazard for the local people. These two large caves are quite a remarkable sight.” – “Thank you!” – “My pleasure!” 130

Mulgi Dance Celeb

“Why do you like caves so much?” asked Mark when the boy had been sitting still in one of them for a while. “Well, you know, sometimes it is nice to go somewhere and think. Another thing I like about caves is that you can sense other people’s thoughts here and sometimes you may think of something that wouldn’t have crossed your mind otherwise. Like now,” said Alexander. His father listened with amazement and tried to remember it so that he could later tell the boy’s mother what he had learned.

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In th e au tu m n yo u ca n fin d va ri ou s fo re st pr od uc ts in Es to ni an w oo ds: blue be rr ie s, lin go nb er ri es, ch an te re lle s an d s. po rc in i m ushr oo m Do no t m iss th e oppo rt un it y an d a m ak e a st op at ly fo re st. Pi ck on m ushr oo m s w ell d kn ow n to yo u an be fo re ea tin g ask th e lo ca ls ab ou t th e be st w ay to pr epar e th em .

Wedding in Taagep

s Tw en ty ki lo m et re e th d aw ay yo u fin , Ta ag ep er a m an or ed er id w hi ch is co ns r th e be st plac e fo a ni to Es w ed di ng s in le du e to it s fa ir y ta at m osph er e. Ro m an ce aw ai ts!

era Manor

“Perhaps he is wise?” suggested Nadia when Mark told her about it. “Of course he is wise, he is my son.” – “No, I meant another kind of wise. More like a wizard or something. He is absolutely unique, but in a very strange way.” – “Maybe we should send him to a special school? A school for wizards?” said Mark jokingly. “Oh, stop that nonsense, silly,” Nadia scolded him. She had been smiling all the time for the last few days. They went to see the fascinating ruins of Helme Castle of the Livonian Order and the magic spring not far from the caves. A folk tale said that if you tossed beads into the spring and then wash with this water, you’d become beautiful. Long ago, the face of a beautiful girl was scarred by plague. She was advised to go to the spring on Midsummer’s Eve. There was a war going on just then, and her beloved was fighting. She stood by the spring and thought whether she should sacrifice her necklace for her own beauty, or for his beloved’s 132

life. She happened to drop the beads during the latter wish. She ran away, hiding in the woods. When her young man returned from the war, he eventually found her there. He persuaded her to take her hands off her face, and when she finally did, he could see her beautiful, smooth and soft face. The family drove back through Tõrva and headed for the legendary rye fields in Sangaste.

e Whe n in Tõ rva w ve re co m m en d to ha e lu nc h at th Lät i Saa tk on d y”) (“Lat vi an Em ba ss ca fé, w hi ch pr ovid es exce lle nt fo od an d a co sy at m osph er e.

na m e g m ai de n, w ho se Th ey sa y a yo un d in se cr et, w as w alle w as to re m ai n a th en ng th e Or de r to st re y at th e Ca st le of ry tim e th e en em ve E . ns tio ca ifi rt th e fo elm e ca st le it w as appr oa ch ed th e H fo g an d re m ai ne d co ve re d by th ic k re ve aled ce an old w om an On . ed sh ui nq va an d un de n to th e en em y ai m e th of e m th e na th ei r ha nd s. th e ca st le fe ll in

Ruins of Helme Ord

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Riga

rg u b s r e t St. Pe m urg 398 k m b s r e t e P . t S od 245 k r o g n a Iv Narva 3 km Otepää 2 27 km a Valga-Valk m Riga 186 k

The Estonian version of The Catcher in the Rye Mark opened his eyes in the passenger seat and felt like he was still asleep. No tourism booklet had warned them that you could feel like this in a remote corner of Southern Estonia. The beauty of nature – rivers, lakes, picturesque landscapes – and the rich cultural heritage was apparent. But nothing had prepared him for the boundless golden fields that looked particularly magnificent in the sunset – they took his breath away. “What? Where are we?” he asked the beautiful woman 134

in a white tank top driving the car. “I see, awake at last,” replied Nadia. “We have reached the world famous Estonian rye fields, the origin of the best rye bread in the world. Sangaste, my dear.” – “I want a cookie,” he mumbled sleepily when the black SUV glided slowly along the aristocratic route. This was the best place to imagine the horse carriages of Hanseatic merchants rolling along. The children were asleep on the back seat. Mark watched how Nadia was focussing on the road, and said: “You are a terribly beautiful woman.” Nadia smiled impishly: “Well sir, you’re not too bad yourself, either.” – “I just wanted to apologise that I have been so stressed out at home lately. Second

Th e la st lo rd of th e San ga st e m an or Fri ed ri ch vo n Ber g (1845-1 93 8) w as kn ow n as th e “c ou nt of ry e”, as he br ed th e San ga st e va ri et y of ry e w ell ad ap te d to th e lo ca l co nd it io ns.

Golden rye fields in

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Sangaste

r g w as th e br ee de Fri ed ri ch vo n Ber is Th ri et y of ry e. of th e fa m ou s va y ca n gr ow up to w ell-kn ow n va ri et ly an d it is a hi gh tw o m et re s hi gh y. at er ia l in G er m an va lu ed ro ofing m

Th e ca st le w as th e fa sh io ne d afte r Win dsor Pa la ce in En glan d.

Sangaste Castle

st e ca st le ho us es ga an S d te va no re gh tin g, Th e co m plet ely r plac e fo r over ni la pu po a is t I a ho te l. w ed di ng s. co nfer en ce s an d puberty,” said Mark and gave a shrug. Nadia laughed. “Don’t you worry, I know what you’re really like.” They approached a mysterious building with a red brick façade with just one thought on their minds: let’s get a room. They stopped the car, let the children sleep on and went for a short walk around the castle. “Well, this shack surely has withstood the test of time,” 136

Mark remarked. – “This is the very spot where they developed the famous variety of rye well adapted to Estonian climate. The castle was built by Count von Berg, a local nobleman challenging an English count who had put a ban on his daughter’s marriage to that ‘Russian savage’.” – “Quite an impressive outcome.” They went in, got two rooms, woke up their children and moved them to comfortable beds. The young lovers spent the rest of the evening extremely sweetly: they had a candlelight dinner, whispered sweet nothings, went for another walk, and took a leisurely bath in a big jacuzzi. “There is something I must tell you,” said Mark with difficulty. Nadia looked at him expectantly. “When we started this trip I didn’t want to come by car to spend some time with you and the children. Back in St. Petersburg, just before I went to the office, I met my old sweetheart and I thought that…” – “You thought what?” Nadia asked, startled. – “I thought I no longer wanted to be with you. She invited me to Riga,” he said, his eyes glistening. Nadia burst out crying. “But I understand now, I understood

Th e flo ur m ad e of San ga st e ry e is st co nsid er ed th e be fo r ba ki ng br ea d.

137

Golden Sang

aste Rya – a

well-adjusted

grain

a while ago, that you and Alex and Maria are the only people I want to be with, the only ones. This trip has cured me. I am fine. Even my mind is fine!” Mark said with a rush of words. Nadia kept on crying. “Actually I know how you are feeling,” she finally sobbed. “I’ve also had… doubts, serious doubts. But now, after all the wonderful experience we have had these last few days I know there was no reason for it. I was worried and it kept growing until my mind was filled with some very stupid thoughts. But I won’t worry any more, especially now. We are one – our bodies, our souls, our children – it is so obvious.” – “You are the only reason I believe in fate.” 138

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One town, two countries On the border of Valga-Va

After a long night the family reached the town of Valga late next morning. They stopped in Säde Park to stretch their legs and get some extra luck for their trip from the statue of Toomas Nipernaadi, the famous fictional adventurer. They had one last border to cross by car. Nadia and Mark kept looking at each other apologetically, but both knew that everything was fine. In the middle of the town they suddenly reached a border checkpoint. Alexander wanted his 139

lka

a Wha t m ak es Va lg un iq ue is th e Lat vi an-E st on ia n bo rd er lin e th at e ru ns in th e m id dl of th e to w n. I t bi se ct s th e to w n e in to tw o pa rt s: th d an Es to ni an Va lg a th e Lat vi an Va lk a.

Valga Tourist Inf

ormation Centre

ca n Fro m Va lg a yo u ga. Ri ta ke a tr ai n to plac e Th is is th e on ly in Es to ni a, w he re Lat vi a. ra ilr oa d le ad s to Valga Jaani (St . Joh

Valga has a military theme park, introducing the history of the Estonian police force, border guards and national defence. An annual military history festival is held on August 20 to celebrate the day Estonia regained its independenc e.

Military fest

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nÂ´s ) Church

ival in Valga

mother to take a picture of him standing with one foot in Estonia and the other in Latvia. Maria followed suit. “What priceless irony,” Alexander snickered. “The border between Estonia and Latvia was set by a British colonel when the sides could not agree which side the town belonged to. For one week, the man was lavishly hosted in Estonia, and for another in Latvia. Finally he sliced the map into two in the middle with his sword, creating Valga and Valka,” read Nadia on the tablet screen. And then they drove on into Latvia.

Karula Nationa

l Park

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Ikla

Rožēni

AINAŽI

STAICELE

Kuiviži

MAZSALACA

Burtn

ALOJA

Korģene .

SALACGRĪVA Puikule

Pāle

Matīši

Burtni

Svētciems Ozolmuiža

Viļķene

132

Dikļi

Zilaiskalns

Umurga

Kocēni

LIMBAŽI

Tūja

Dunte

Skultesmuiža Lēdurga

Zvejniekciems

113 LĪGATNE 58 1

Bīriņi

Turaida

Ragana Gauja

Mūrjaņi

VANGAŽI 79 Ādaži

Garkalne Baltezers

Zaķumuiža

iņķi

unmārupe

OLAINE

SALASPILS BALOŽI 142

Jaunolaine

IKŠĶILE

Ieriķi

SIGULDA 92

60 35

Nītaure

Mālpils

Ropaži Suntaži

Mārupe

Allaži

16 127 Kārļi

Augšlīgatne

CĒSIS

uja

Pabaži

RĪGA

Inciems

SAULKRASTI

Carnikava

Ungurs

Gravas

Vaidava

Straupe

Vidriži .

Stalbe

Ķeipene Laubere

OGRE

Zaube

Madliena

Sooru

Naukšēni

121

Ērģeme

Kārki

nieks

ieki

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123

VALMIERA 82

122

Zīle

Gau

100 61

Sietiņiezis

Ähijärve

Varstu Hargla

Saru

Mõniste

Vijciems Lobērģi

APE

Stepi Gaujiena

Trapene

Mēri

Mūrmuiža

SMILTENE

Vireši

Silva

Palsmane

Liepa

Z Rauna

Tsooru

Koikküla

125

128

Sõm

Lüllemäe

Seļi

106 8

Karula Kaagjärve

SEDA STRENČI 99

ANTSLA

VALGA

VALKA 119 Rencēni

Kobela

Tsirguliina

120

Variņi Lejasciems

80 Drusti

Bērzkrogs

Drabeši

Dzērbene

Ranka Jaunpiebalga

Taurene

Šķieneri

Tirza

Druviena

Alauksts

Kosa

Lizums

Pērle Vecpiebalga

Jaungulbene

Liezēre

CESVAINE

Dzelzava Baloži

Braki

Ērgļi

LUBĀNA

Kusa

MADONA Meņģele

Sauleskalns

Meirāni

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Sveiki! The border crossing happened in the blink of an eye: just a moment ago Mark, Nadia, Alexander and Maria had still been on Estonian soil, and then they were already breathing the extremely refreshing air of Latvijas Republika. Without feeling any awe of the new and somewhat unknown territory, the black SUV dashed through the streets of Valka, with occasional stops to allow a girl with a little dog, or a gentleman with a walking stick cross the street. They were almost unstoppable. A few metres from the road crossing between Estonia and Latvia they were greeted by the 144

majestic Lugaži Lutheran church in Valka. “Let’s go up to the tower!” cried Alexander. It was an exciting adventure for the whole family to climb the narrow stairs higher and higher. From the top they enjoyed a lovely view of the town divided between two countries. Mark wondered: “Does the border really look like the contour of a flying bird from the bird’s eye view, the way it looks on the Valga/Valka map and their joint town logo?” On the Estonian side they saw St. John’s Lutheran church in Valga which also had an active Latvian congregation, and the wooden building of Valga Town Hall. On the Latvian side they saw Valka Local History Museum. In the middle of the town they saw the River Pedeli crossing the border: its source lies in Estonia, then it meanders through

Va lk a Loc al H is to ry Mus eu m pr ovid es an over vi ew of th e hi st or y of th e bo rd er ar ea be tw ee n Lat vi a an d Es to ni a.

Valka Lo ca

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l History

Museum

Vijciems Luthera

n Church

S ed a to w n is a psp ec ta cu la r exam 0s le of th e 195 ’ ar ch it ec tu re in Lat vi a. But S ed a or e m ar sh is even m n, of an at tr ac tio offe ri ng a w id e va ri et y of hi ki ng tr ai ls an d po ssibi lit ie s fo r bi rd w at ch in g.

Latvian Valka area, and returns to Estonia again. “Yes, what an interesting and wonderful twin town,” the family thought in unison. “As Valka is the place where Latvia begins, it is the right time to decide where we’ll go next,” said Mark. “We have a choice: hiking in Seda marsh or visiting cone drying kiln in Vijciems,” Nadia proposed. “Cone drying kiln? Tell me more,” asked Mark for an explanation. “Well, at the end of the 19th century Latvia was hit by extensive forest fires and the country needed high quality conifer seeds fast. So they built cone drying kilns. Nowadays they use exactly the same technology as a hundred years ago.” – “That’s exciting, but we haven’t done any hiking for a long while, perhaps we could go to the marshes instead?” Mark reasoned and turned the wheel slightly to the right, to the South East direction. 146

Vekšu nature trail

ar e kšu na tu re tr ai ls Th e Z īle s an d Ve s ur to ri ng in di vi du al also popu la r, offe y ab ou t th e di ve rsit w it h gu id es te lli ng ja au G na tu re in th e an d pr ot ec tio n of t th e ac ti vi ti es of Ri ve r va lle y, ab ou ak e, m is ch ie f th ey m be aver s an d th e ts, d pr ot ec te d plan an d ab ou t ra re an g lin el s. To ur is ts tr av bi rd s an d in se ct a en d th e ni gh t at by w at er ca n sp e th h am en it ie s on ca m pi ng si te w it . G au ja ri ve r ba nk

147

Seda Bog

Th er e is an ot he r na tu re tr ai l ne ar S tr en Ä?i. Aft er hi ki ng yo u ca n ra l re st, en jo y cu ltu even ts ta ki ng s plac e on th e to w nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; op en ai r st ag e or ha ve fu n in th e ch ild re nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s play gr ou nd ne ar th e st ag e. A lo ng th e na tu re tr ai l yo u ca n en jo y th e vi ew of th e ch ar ac te ri st ic la nd sc ap e of th e old G au ja ri ve r be d. Lis te n an d obse rve!

A moment later the family was cruising along Valmiera Highway towards the promised marsh. Nadia and the kids went through their bags, looking for sneakers and pants suitable for hiking at a marsh. Mark followed the road lined with trees and looked carefree. The traffic thinned out, leaving only them and the nature. Soon they reached the beginning of Seda Hiking Trail. The inhabitants of the neighbouring town with the same name were mainly employed by a peat moss harvesting company operating at the same marsh. They had been doing that for more than half a century with no end in sight. Our travellers put on their hiking pants and sneakers and set slowly and calmly off along a well-worn track, eyeing everything around them with childlike wonder. They chose a short, merely four kilometre track in order not to wear the children out. They had to save some energy for the rest of the day ahead of them. The marsh extending over 7,000 148

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n In th e lit tle to w Rū ji en a so m e ki lo m et re s aw ay is a lo ca l da ir y w he re yo u ca n ta st e th e hi gh ly ic e popu la r Rū ji en a cr ea m . Yo u co uld in sp en d th e ni gh t Ķoņi. In th e Ķoņi m ill vi si to rs ca n tr y ba ki ng ry e br ea d, it pr ovid es d ac co m m od at io n an s ro om s fo r va ri ou even ts.

hectares felt like a heap of wet newspapers in the middle of the living room: nobody knew who had put it there, but the marsh was undoubtedly more of an enigma than it had seemed at first sight. The birds were twittering, chirping and whistling without a care in the world on the branches of stunted marsh trees. Alexander and Maria were the first to climb onto the viewing tower to watch the huge machinery of peat harvesting in action. The sun was glowing like a millionWatt light bulb, roasting their backs. All memories of concrete jungle, traffic noise, business meetings and office chairs were forgotten. The marsh abounded in the sunshine and heather. After the hiking exercise they changed again, got into the car and drove on. Next stop – Valmiera!

The Big Stone at

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urg 452 km St. Petersb rod 299 km go Narva-Ivan 3 km a3 Valga-Valk km 0 Valmiera 2 m Riga 129 k

Woods and wooden heads On their way to the old Hanseatic town Valmiera they passed through the town of Strenči. “This is a historic timber rafting town. The logs cut from the near-by forests were sent down the river to Riga. Nowadays there are annual festivals dedicated to the River Gauja rafters, to keep their heritage alive,” read Nadia. “I see, there is also a mental institution museum here,” Mark read over her shoulder. “I’m obviously a mentally disturbed person as I have been trying to deny life 151

In th e to w n yo u ca n se e a st at ue de di ca te d to th e ra ft er s as w ell as go ra ft in g on th e ri ve r, w it h an e expe ri en ce d gu id . of co ur se

by working, building a wall around myself, shrugging everything and everybody off, so it might be just the place for me.” – “Enough of your pomposity,” Nadia snapped, to bring him back to reality. “If there is anyone among us who could be put into a mental institution, it’s me: overly sensitive artistic spirit, always teetering on the brink of neurotic meltdown!” – “What are you talking about?” Alexander put in. “Haven’t you even noticed how mad your son is? I have had to live with people like you for twelve years. I haven’t seen much else besides this madness!” – “Oh dear!” remarked Maria with a sweet smile. “I have always wondered if I was the only sane person in this family. So now I know.” They laughed and laughed all the way to Valmiera.

Rafting on river

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Gauja

Museum of Strenči

Psychoneurological

Hospital

is lo gi ca l H ospi ta l ro eu -N ho yc Ps či S tr en in Th e Mus eu m of ng plac e fo un de d ui ig tr in ry ve d d th e a un iq ue an Ber s, a do ct or an ts er lb A r. D of as op en ed 2011 in th e ho us e . Th e m us eu m w al it sp ho e th s of firs t di re ct or e ho spit al an d it th of y or st hi ng lo us eu m in ho no ur of th e of S tr en či. Th e m y or st hi e th in d im po rt an t ro le an en t exhi bi tio n an rm pe of s ur to ha ve pr ovid es gu id ed bu t yo u ca n also va ri ou s exhi bi ts, y. if ne ce ssar yo ur se lf ch ec ke d, 153

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burg s r e t e St. P urg 486 km St. Petersb rod 319 km go Narva-Ivan 0 km a5 Valga-Valk Cēsis 32 km km Sigulda 63 m Riga 108 k

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In th e he ar t of Vi dz em e yo u ar e w elco m e to vi si t th e at tr ac ti ve ci ty of Va lm ie ra. S ta rt explor in g th is ci ty by vi si tin g th e Va lm ie ra m us eu m ne xt to th e ru in s of a Livon ia n Or de r ca st le an d ll th e exhi bi tio n ha Ve cā Apt ie ka.

In the middle of Middle-Earth “We are in the centre of Vidzeme region now. Vidzeme is the historical name of Northern Latvia, meaning the land in the middle,” read Nadia on the screen when they had reached Valmiera. “In this town there are the ruins of a 13th century castle and a Lutheran St. Simon’s Church and an old pharmacy. One of the most famous Latvian beer brands comes from nearby Valmiermuiža Village – they offer brewery tours with beer tasting. The steep banks of the River Gauja are perfect for walking, you can also take a river tram instead if you like.” – “In the AVOTI leisure complex in the outskirts of Valmiera you can play tennis or golf, 154

Va lm ie ra yo u ca n se e th e n w to d ol ra ie , lm In th e Va Va lm ie ra Mus eu m , y) ur nt ce th (13 io ns of ca st le ru in s ur ch (1238), se ct Ch n ra he ut L ’s S t. Si m on (1756) an d e old ph ar m ac y th s, et re st l va ie m ed e (193 0). cr aftsm en’s ho us

is a bo at Th e G au ja Tr am ke a to ur fo r to ur is ts to ta on th e ri ve r.

Valmiera St. Simon’s Lutheran Church

am Gauja tr

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BMX race tra

Lat vi an M ār is Š to m be rg s is th e firs t ever BM X Olym pi c ch am pi on an d he ca n do am az in g tr ic ks on u a BM X bi ke. Yo in m ig ht m ee t hi m A VOTl.

ride BMX trick bikes, wander in a nature labyrinth, and jump on trampolines. Extreme thrill seekers get a chance to be flung off a catapult,” Mark added. Maria stared at him with bulging eyes: “A catapult? What does it mean?” – “A catapult is a device you can climb into, and it will fling you very high and very far.” – “Like a rocket?” – “Like an ancient rocket. Shall we take a short walk first?” suggested Nadia. – “Let’s walk once we decided to come here,” replied Alexander. During their short walk – a large part of it along cobblestone streets in the heart of the town – they saw the church Nadia had mentioned earlier, the castle ruins, the old pharmacy, the Bachelors’ Park (if you want to find out what it means, you’ll have to go and see for yourself) and a couple of stronghold hillocks. They came to understand that Valmiera was a town where the ancient and the modern were clearly outlined but also interwoven. They took the Gauja river tram to rest their legs. They saw beavers who 156

liked to build their nests and dams in this river. This wonderful river tram was a watercraft carrying up to 30 people. They were able to give some travel advice to a German family on their way to St. Petersburg According through Estonia. There were tourists from all ends to Valmie rmui탑a B rewery, w of the world onboard: Scandinavians in comfortable hat is the most importan t c om p o n street clothes, Asians with cameras, lots of people ent o f a good beer? from neighbouring countries. During the river tour they got acquainted with some of them and A) Good gra in exchanged ideas about other places of interest in B) Good m anor Latvia, Estonia and Russia. C) Good cr a

nt fin d th e re st au ra In Va lm ie ra yo u la r ri ng a ve ry popu fe of i, rt Va s te Ra ry e br ea d w it h Lat vi an de ss er t: m. ne y an d ic e cr ea ho s, ie rr be w ra st Delic io us!

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ftsmanship

Tavern-pizzeria Lie

pziedi un Rozmarīn

Lettonia mi Amore In th e Lie pz ie di un Rozm ar īn s pi zza sc ho ol yo u ca n en jo y a r de lic io us pi zza fo ve ha lu nc h th at yo u m ad e yo ur se lf. e Th e ow ne rs of th sc ho ol ad or e th e I ta lia n cu isin e, , th ey ba ke pi zzas so bu t th ey al se rve so m e Lat vi an di sh es.

“Listen,” Nadia asked for their attention. “There is a pizza school at a short drive from Valmiera where you can learn how to make a real pizza and then, thank god, eat it! Would you like that?” – “I would like to have some pizza,” said Maria, tugging at her braids. “A decent Italian delicacy would be great, I’m all for it,” agreed Mark and Alexander. After their hike in the marsh and walk in Valmiera all of them were rather hungry. After a short southward drive, the black SUV stopped at a farm. A man by name of Valdis Žentinš met them at the house. “Our family owns the famous Liepziedi un Rozmarīns pizza restaurant in Valmiera,” he told them enthusiastically. “We’re all head over heels in love with Italy, this is why we promote the undoubtedly best part of its culture – pizza making – also in Latvia.” 158

Alexander noticed that Valdis even spoke with a slight Italian accent. Although he said that pizza making classes required advance booking with minimum ten participants, he was willing to provide a separate lesson for the family anyway as a sign of goodwill. “It is always easier to learn in a smaller group,” he admitted. “It is easy to ruin the dough, therefore we give the beginners dough that we have prepared beforehand.” He handed everybody a fist-sized piece of soft dough to be kneaded, rolled and shaped. Valdis demonstrated his expertise: he kneaded and shaped the dough with smooth movements until a perfectly round and thin pizza base was ready on the worktop. They tried to imitate him, Maria even tossed the dough up in the air, didn’t even make an effort to catch it, so it flattened itself out when making contact with the table, not with her hands. “Look, I made it,” she said. “This little girl surely has the makings of a pizza genius of a young generation,” Valdis praised her. Maria blushed a little. They added a pinch of herbs to the base, then covered it evenly with fresh tomato paste, added vegetables, salami, bacon and cheese. (Mark couldn’t resist and heaped a mound of cheese the size of Suur Munamägi Hill on his.) Then their pizzas were put into a wood fired stone oven. Soon the whole yard was full of delicious pizza-baking aroma. Their baked pizzas were taken out of the oven, set on cutting boards and cut into slices. It was a delicious meal. Mark was especially delighted with his pizza with a cheese 159

layer two centimetres thick – he claimed it to be the best he’d ever had. Valdis tasted it as well and argued: “It tastes even better out in the open air, doesn’t it?” Having filled their stomachs with their delicious and greasy masterpieces of Italian culinary art they contentedly continued their trip. “It would take us an hour and a half to reach Cēsis – a town that has witnessed numerous battles throughout history. There is also a rather well preserved medieval stronghold there – not just ruins. I’d quite like to go,” Nadia proposed.

f the e na m e o th is t a h W Latvia? za bar in oldest piz i A) Steffan B) Lulu o C) Paradis

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Dikļi romance “We’re going in a completely wrong direction,” said Nadia, staring at the screen. “No, we’re not,” stated Mark with conviction and a barely noticeable smile appeared on his face. “Yes, we are! The GPS shows that…” Nadia stopped for a moment and asked: “You have a secret plan, don’t you?” – “Maybe I do, maybe I don’t.” Mark gave in and revealed his secret: “Tonight we’ll stay in Dikļi Castle.” But he didn’t explain more, just drove on, turning a deaf ear to all their questions. It was a nice and sunny afternoon when they arrived, a light breeze playing with their cheeks 165

el Dik Äźi Ca st le H ot t is a pe rfec plac e fo r ho lid ay m ak in g, pa rt ie s e an d se m in ar s. Th or an m Neo-Bar oq ue 96 ho us e bu ilt in 18 s it d ha s pr es er ve or ig in al lo ok w it h m in or ch an ge s.

Spa salong

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and hair and rustling the leaves. Mark had secretly booked a romantic package for Nadia and himself. A long relaxing massage, a bath with all kinds of relaxing infusions, dinner with champagne, and a splendidly comfortable room in the castle made her glow, tingle all over with excitement, and yearn for more. Their children played hide and seek in the castle park, went for a ride in a horse carriage, chased ghosts in the corridors, and read books in the library. (Alexander read comics, Maria chose fairy tales.) When they had worn themselves out, they discovered beds worthy of princes and princesses waiting for them. They fell asleep. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You are such an incredibly wonderful man,â&#x20AC;? Nadia thanked Mark in the morning. He smiled contentedly, glad that his family was happy. They had breakfast, all four of them together, and then drove off in order to arrive in Riga by the nightfall.

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The uprising of Cēsis When they arrived in Cēsis Castle they saw quite a number of tourists: Russians, Chinese, Finns, Germans, and of other nationalities with a few guides. It seemed they could only enter the castle with a guide, so the family joined a Russian group and listened to the guide together with other tourists. “A castle was built in the place of an ancient stronghold at the beginning of the North-bound crusades so that the Teutonic crusaders based in Riga could subdue the last pagan Latgals, and Estonian tribes farther ahead. Due to strong resistance it took them nearly two decades,” told a gentleman with a long beard and horn-rimmed spectacles. “As Cēsis has been a battleground ever so often, this castle has been frequently rebuilt and repaired. For example, 168

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Remem ber to visit the southe rn tower, which is from the outsid e the most decora tive tower of the castle. Climb down to the basem ent to visit the medie val castle prison! the retreating German warriors destroyed a large part of the castle during the Livonian War in 1577 because they feared that it would fall into the hands of the army of Tsar Ivan the Terrible.” – “Hey, this way,” whispered Mark. He had stayed behind the main group and invited his family to make a tactical manoeuvre. “I cannot trot along with that flock, let’s rather wander about on our own. We can read about history on the computer, it’s the imagination that counts here.” They could envision Swedish soldiers shouting beyond the moat, brandishing their swords and firing crossbows – a battle had begun. “Captain Alex, what are your plans?” he asked his son. “Let’s see. The enemy is attacking us on three sides, so we have two choices: run like cowards and leave this important castle to

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stle

Tod ay the med ieva l Cēsis Cas tle is an impressive wit ness of the his tory of the tow n of Cēsis, attr act ing visi tors wit h its med ieva l arc hite ctu re and rom ant ic fea tur es. After rec eivi ng lan ter ns wit h can dle s at the visi ting cen tre you are rea dy to visi t the cas tle!

A mag nific ent view open s from the wes tern towe r over the cast le, the cast le park, the city and its surr ound ings.

Medieval Cēsis Ca

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them, or keep on fighting until our reinforcements arrive,” stated Alexander. “Hermes has been dispatched, now it’s just a matter of time. To the bastions, brothers-in-arms! Let’s show those rotten Swedes up and run those Svenssons down!” The two warriors put up great resistance to the invading forces while the girls studied the interior decorations. “Why do you boys have to fight all the time?” asked Maria with a worried look. “Why can’t you be friends with the Swedes? You haven’t even said hello, but there you are already, fighting a bloody battle!” – “What do you think, Captain Alex? Does the princess have a point?” – “The foundation of manhood has been undermined, for the first time in my life I feel… insecure. Cease fire!” The Swedes turned around and 170

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disappeared behind the horizon, the boys came to their senses and laid down the weapons. “Well, we hadn’t tried peace before, but look – it worked!” said Mark. “Sorry, Svenssons!” Alexander cried. “What is the meaning of this noise?” asked a large and cross elderly lady appearing from around the corner. “Run like cowards?” proposed Nadia and they all ran like the wind, escaping to their car where they burst out laughing. “Well, that was an extremely nice tour,” said Alexander when his father turned on the engine. Maria was still giggling, happy that a princess had been able to put an end to the fighting of the knights.

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Ho w ma n y times h as Castle be en the ba Cēsis ttleground b etw and Swed een Russian ish armie s? A) 0 B) 2 C) 5

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th at ct ive di sp la ys, so ra te in rs fe of d o Z (in )o en t te ch no lo gi es an er ff di t ou y tr m at ic s vi si to rs co uld tu re: st ud y m at he na of s w la e th exam in e th e po w er of in g obje ct s w it h ov m , ng pi m ng, ju by se ei ng th e lig ht ni d, un so ng ei se t, th ou gh ta pu lts e pr in ci ples of ca un de rs ta nd in g th an d m uc h m or e.

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Draught animals and party animals Basing their choices on the proven good reputation of the tablet computer and Maria’s urging, they picked Rakši Zoo for their next destination. It was said to have some very exotic animals: alpacas, guanacos, llamas and camels there. “Alpacas and guanacos are related to llamas, they are all representatives of the camel family,” read Nadia, answering her own and the others’ questions. This little farm was situated close to Cēsis Castle. They got out and approached a fence where they were greeted by one of the staff. “These are Fatima and Sahib,” she introduced two camels who had come to look at the new guests. “They are very well-behaved, so you can touch them.” Nadia lifted Maria up and she stroked the camel’s nose. “Gooey but sweet,” noted the girl. “There are some alpacas and llamas over there,” the farm

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Camels in Rakši zoo

Alpacas in

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worker continued. “We keep guanacos in a separate fenced-off area because they are wilder than the others, and can start fighting with the more placid animals. But generally they are very nice, and very fast, too – they can run at the speed of about 60 kilometres an hour. They have to be fast because they have nowhere to hide from predators in their natural habitat, they can only count on their own speed to escape.” A guanaco was rearing up on his hind legs. “This is Rodrigo, he likes to show off in front of strangers,” she remarked. “Over there you can see a group of llamas. They are very sociable animals. Please excuse my question, but do you have any pets?” – “No, why do you ask?” – “Your daughter,” she pointed at Maria talking to a llama and stroking it. “She relates strongly to animals. She needs them in her life.” – “Are you a fortune teller?” asked Mark half-mockingly. “I am a psychologist by profession,” said the farm worker. 174

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In defence of elected deputies “My feet hurt,” complained Maria when her mother suggested another hiking trip, this time by Līgatne Nature Trail supposedly taking them to a rocky embankment with the most beautiful view in all Latvia. “All right, we don’t have to go there. We could go straight to Sigulda instead, you don’t have to use your own feet much to enjoy nature there.” She was referring to the one kilometre long cable car ride over the River Gauja Valley. “There are Turaida Castle and an adventure park nearby – but perhaps you are tired of castles and adventures by now?” Nadia asked Maria, although she already knew the answer. 175

Līgatne Pa

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Besid es a fa nt as tic na tu re tr ai l yo u ca n r fin d an old pa pe ne at m ill in L īg an d a vi lla ge w it h in te re st in g ar ch it ec tu re su rr ou nd in g it.

“Look, this is Vienkoči Park with many wood sculptures and a house built of sandbags,” Nadia pointed out when they had reached Augslīgatne area. It was still ten more kilometres to Sigulda when Mark made a hard turn to the right and stepped on the gas. “Have you lost your mind?” wondered Nadia. “Of course not,” thought Mark in response and drove silently on. “The war has started; those damn Yankees have launched their bombs! Leningrad is in ruins, Sevastopol razed to the ground and the lab rats in Vozrozhdenya released. A new plague has begun to spread and loyal people’s deputies like ourselves must try to save the country: everybody to the bunkers!” – “What are you talking about?” – “Oh, there’s an old cold war Soviet bomb shelter right here in Līgatne. It extends over two thousand square kilometres. It is

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Inside of a secret Sov

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there that the leaders of the Latvian Soviet Socialist Republic were supposed to hide in case of any danger, to make plans, to survive.” – “Wait…, wait…” Alexander gasped and then continued with a voice husky from delight: “Ex‑cell-ent.” – “And, by the way, to camouflage this shelter they built a spa complex on top of it as a holiday place providing rest and recreation to those same high officials who were supposed to come here for shelter,” read Nadia from a website. A tour was just about to begin when they reached the spa complex. They paid for the tickets and joined the group. A staircase took them to the shelter level nine metres below ground. They walked along corridors, looked into various rooms and glanced at all the items on display: posters and flags with Soviet symbols, 177

Ligatne Cav

The L朝gatn e caves are also a fascin ating sight: the hundr eds of caves with excelle nt tempe rature stabili ty were made artific ially in the 18th centur y to store food and other provisions.

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portraits and busts of Soviet leaders, maps, sketches and plans, and the state-of-the-art contemporary technology – huge computers towering in large rooms. At the end of the tour they enjoyed a standard Soviet-time lunch in the bunker’s diner: borscht soup, bread with sprats, pickles, and – gas masks. “Thank you, dear Father,” said Alexander with delight and put the purchased gas mask on. Once outside the spa/bunker, they continued their interrupted drive to Sigulda, with their minds still full of the grandeur and horrors of war threat, fear and fearlessness.

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Love is in the air After surviving the short queue for the cable car, they sat in a carriage and a slow journey across the river began. The sunny view from the high vantage point over the lush greenery along the winding river enhanced considerably the beauty of the river although it was already beautiful as it was. It made them want to jump off the cable car into the water or into the rich foliage – out of sheer joy, not for morbid reasons. The view was delightful: they could see the picturesque Turaida Castle, a bobsleigh track and Krimulda Manor in the distance. In Krimulda they got off the cable car and looked back toward Sigulda on the viewing platform. “Careful, you’ll 180

Air cable way

over Gauja Ri

fall!” shouted Mark to Nadia, and pushed her gently over the edge, still holding on to her. “Stop it, this is stupid!” she said, startled. A moment later Alexander did the same to Maria and now Nadia got angry: “Now look, what crazy things you are teaching the kids! Think a bit before you do anything as stupid as that!” – “Wait, don’t overreact now, it was only a joke.” – “I’m overreacting? You are underreacting, you crazy fool!” Mark looked astonished, he rolled his eyes and apologised with a grand flourish, only to make her even angrier. They fell silent. 181

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Valley of river Gauja

The Sigu lda Lug e and Bobs leigh Trac k is a , and train ing venu e for the Latvian Olym pic team nal ever y season it host s inter natio nal and natio comp etiti ons. The total leng th of the luge and es and bobs leigh trac k is 1420 m; it feat ures 16 curv ists allow s the maximum spee d of 125 km/h. Tour in koâ&#x20AC;? are offe red a ride in a soft bob, calle d â&#x20AC;&#x153;vuch rien ced wint er or with a rolli ng bob pilot ed by expe athletes in sum mer.

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Sigulda Souvenir

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They rode the cable car back to Sigulda in silence, and then drove on. “You do like birds, don’t you?” asked Mark from Nadia in the car. “There is a chance to try out what it’s like to be a bird near here.” – “What do you mean?” she snapped, feeling hurt still. “The Aerodium Wind Tunnel. Do you remember the opening of Torino Olympics and the air acrobats? They were Latvians. Shall we try it?” – “Goodness, I don’t know if I dare.” – “Come on, those instructors are the best in the world. Twenty minutes of warming up and they say anybody can do it. Besides, trying it out just once is supposed to make you noticeably fitter, so I certainly need it.” – “Well, all right. But you must encourage me some more.” They drove on for a while until they reached a sign: “Warning: flying people ahead”. 184

“Hello, I’m Anders, your flying instructor,” the local commander introduced himself. He gave them flying overalls, helmets and goggles and led them to the warm-up space. They did a lot of warm-up circles: for head, hips and shoulders. Anders talked about fear and how it causes accidents. “The main thing is to take it easy; it’s natural to feel insecure at the beginning: you have never flown before. I will come with you anyway,” he calmed them down. The children looked from the distance how their father

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Aerodium

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does the How fast w in the wind blo tunnel? Aerodium our A) 50 km/h /hour B) 100 km /hour C) 200 km

entered the tunnel first, and how his facial skin started to flap like a bulldog’s while he laughed out loud from sheer excitement. “Incredible experience,” he told Nadia after getting back down. “It isn’t bad at all, just fun, believe me.” Nadia trusted him and went next, although rather fearfully. She screamed a little when she took off, but soon she was smiling with a wide grin, and the wind pulled it even wider. Her face lit up and she was delighted that she had tried it with Mark. “Mark, why are you always undermining my authority in front of the children?” she asked when they were taking off the overalls. “Why are you always so patronising?” Mark was surprised: “Honey, it was just a stupid joke, don’t overdramatize it.” – “Does everything I do seem excessive to you?” she hissed. “Not everything, but I often think you do get upset too easily.” – “I want the children – and you – to respect me! I am not just some silly girl that you have by your side for her looks, I am my own woman with an independent mind!” – “I know that, but you are making a scene once again right now!” Nadia walked away. “That was so cool. I’d also like to try it but I’m too young for it yet. Maybe later when I’m big enough,” said Maria to her parents when they returned from the aerodrome one after another. “Fantastic,” said Alexander with the gas mask on.

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Tarzan Adventure Park

la rg es t in Si gu ld a is th e s an rz Ta rk rs pa Th e ad ve nt ur e s. Th e pa rk offe tic al B e th in rk e pa tr ee s, ou td oo r ad ve nt ur ed on ne ar ly 10 0 nt ou m ks ac tr le s, a Ta rzan obst ac ca ta pu lt, ve lo ca rt a t, lif r ai ch a ri ou s a to bo gg an tr ac k, ve lo m obile s an d va ily m fa y, er ch ar th e clim bi ng w all, d Pi ra te tr ac ks in an an rz Ta n: re bu ng ee ac ti vi ti es fo r ch ild ho ol fo r ch ild re n, sc g in iv dr , d rk ch ild re nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pa bi ke s, go-k ar ts an ad qu ds ki , es ju m pi ng, tr am po lin an or Ja ne. pa rt ie s w it h Ta rz 187

Turaida castle

in 1214 as co m m issi on ed w le st Ca a id ra Th e Tu e of th e t an d be ca m e on by bi sh op A lb er . rc hbishop of Ri ga re si de nc es of A “Come here,” Mark grasped Nadia by the hand and dragged her to the side. “I don’t ever want to hear again that I don’t respect you. I’ve been with you for thirteen years and I have supported you in everything, I repeat – everything: I have paid for your tuition, rated your sketches, tried on your samples, been your model, made you soup when you were ill, taken care of our children, made you romantic surprises and been nice to your parents – although I cannot stand them and they cannot stand me. Those and in a sense also the stupid things I have done over the years show that I love you and respect you as my equal. If you cannot see that, you should have your 188

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ija onc e live d in the Tu rai da A you ng ma ide n nam ed Ma the cas tle ga rd ene r. Du e to Cas tle. Sh e wa s in love wit h sh e lots of oth er su itor s, wh om her pre tty loo ks, Ma ija ha d , ect ed su itor s, a Polish officer tur ned dow n. One of the rej e Cav s an’ ed her to the Gu tm cou ldn’t for give the sli gh t, lur ija on her. As a las t resort Ma and tri ed to for ce him self k nec her e cla im ed tha t aro un d cam e up wit h a fat al lie: sh . tha t no sw ord cou ld pen etr ate rf, sca k sil al gic ma a re sh e wo try her, so Ma ija invite d him to The officer wo uld n’t believe and her nec k. H e str uck a blo w it and pu t the sca rf aro un d er H 19. of rai da Ros e at the ag e tha t wa s the end of the Tu rch H ill to thi s da y and so gra ve lies on the Tu rai da Chu oug h the ag es. doe s her love sto ry las t thr 189

You can bes t vie w the Tu rai da lan ds cap e by tak ing a boa t tri p on the Ga uja River. It is jus t ma rve llou s to pa ss thr oug h dee p em era ld gre en for est s and the n not ice a red tow er wit h a tri ang ula r ha t ah ead – a sig n tha t thi s is the Sig uld a reg ion on the wa y to Tu rai da.

eyes checked!” Nadia was silent, she was embarrassed. Mark continued: “If you really want me to treat you like a teacher in front of the children, then fine, but in that case that they will grow into dumb imitators, obeying any authority.” He saw the apologising look in Nadia’s eyes, hugged her and said: “My dear lady, I love you with all my heart. There’s no reason to feel ashamed or embarrassed, we’ve put it all behind us!”

Gauja River

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urg 572 km m b s r e t e P . t S k gorod 426 n a Iv a v r a N km Tartu 244 62 km a1 Valga-Valk 8 km 10 Valmiera m Cēsis 88 k km Sigulda 53

A more regular flight They were on their way from Sigulda towards the horizon – to Riga. The sun had dropped, the sky was tinted pink, and the black SUV rolled happily towards the capital of Latvia. “Our plane leaves at nine, we’ll reach Lübeck late at night,” said Nadia. Mark had forgotten all about his conference, it seemed just a distant memory. “Oh, right, I thought there was something I was supposed to do. Something at the back of my mind,” he said. “Fine, we’ll fly to Germany as well and get everything done in one go.” – “What else have you done then?” asked Alexander. – “Family business,” answered Mark and the boy nodded with a respectful smile. “What family business, what are you talking about?” asked Maria, confused. “We’re 191

Th e Lat vi an Et hn og ra ph ic Op en Air Mus eu m is on e of th e olde st an d la rg es t op en ai r m us eu m s in Eu rope. Th e 11 8 old bu ild in gs al fr om all hi st or ic a di st ri ct s of Lat vi e, em (Kur ze m e, Vi dz Z em ga le an d Lat ga le ), bu ilt fr om th e en d of th e 17th ce nt ur y up to th e se co nd , ha lf of th e 193 0s d, ha ve be en re lo ca te d an re co ns tr uc te d fu rn ishe d.

nogra tvian Eth

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saying that family must come first. It’s lonely and sad without a family,” he explained to his daughter. “Oh, I knew that. I’ll always remember that, or at least try,” said Maria, tugging at her braids. The signs of villages and towns flickered by one by one. The black SUV was approaching Riga. “At Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum you can learn about rural life,” read Nadia off the screen once again. “There are 118 buildings, the oldest dating from the beginning of the 17th century.” After a while they saw Riga television tower. “RIGA!” Mark cried joyfully out. The entire

Air Muse

192

Rāmkalni

l pa rk In th e re cr ea tio na w ill Rā m ka ln i ever yo ne ac ti ve fin d he al th y an d ibili ti es. re cr ea tio na l po ss in vi te In su m m er w e de l yo u to tr y th e Ro s th at tr ac k, bu t be si de Cr az y th er e is also th e ge es Ball, Exci tin g Bun r. an d F ly in g Ch ai co m e to Ch ild re n ar e w el l. For th e Dri vi ng S ch oo in th e an ac ti ve ho lid ay e bo at s op en ai r th er e ar re nt an d bi cy cles fo r tr ac ks an d even sp ec ia l rs in fo r Nor di c w alke te r Rā m ka ln i. In w in tw o Rā m ka ln i offe rs slop es 20 0 m et er s lo ng fo r sk iin g. 193

Consider ed to be amo ng the mos t impo rtan t Art Nou veau citie s in Europe, with an Old Town that is inclu ded in the UNE SCO world heri tage list, host ing more alter nati ve area s like Mie ra Stre et, Spīķ eri and Kaln ciem a Stre et Bloc k the city itself will ente rtain you even befo re you ente r all the mus eum s, galle ries, shops or rest aura nts, or go for tour s outside the cent re.

family gave a start. Alexander told them straight away that the Riga TV tower was taller than the Eiffel tower in Paris. He couldn’t remember the exact height but his pride did not suffer because of it. Maria couldn’t quite understand what her brother meant and she wasn’t really interested. She was more interested in the scenery of the Daugava Riverside and the people there, walking, or riding their bikes, or walking their dogs. They crossed another bridge and drove to Riga Airport where a huge metal bird with padded interiors swallowed the family up, lifted them happily in the air for a regular flight to Lübeck and landed there an hour later, only to repeat the same journey backwards a couple of days later.

Riga Old Tow

194

Riga Town Ha

yo u ca n of th e Old To w n s er rd bo e th d ju st Bey on in th e ci ty th an e or m h uc m e’s od er n Ri ga, se e th at th er nt ur e in to th e m Ve . es on st le bb d co hi st or ic al ga, gr ee n Ri ga an Ri au ve ou N rt A th e Bal tic ar ts y Ri ga, in th e ce nt re of ed at oc L e. or m in m an y ts a W es te rn vi be en es pr re ga Ri co un tr ie s, pe w it h a tw is t. th e Ea st er n Eu ro

Don’t be asha m ed to w alk ar ou nd w it h y ou r ca m er a lik e a re al to ur is t, be ca us e y ou’ll ha ve lo ts of pi ct ur es to ta ke!

195

rg u b s r e t St. Pe

Riga

Via

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A familiar way home

Lielstraupe

Castle

They took a slightly different road for their return trip from Riga to St. Petersburg, visiting places they had skipped before for some reason. In Latvia they stopped in Līgatne again, this time taking a ferry over the Gauja River. They went to see the nice yellow Lielstraupe Castle, currently an addiction rehab. Then they enjoyed fresh air and good food at Mazais Ansis Pub, which – it turned out – was more than just a pub. “We’ll stay the night here,” Mark announced decisively when they reached the famous guesthouse: the enchanting scenery and characteristic wooden farmhouses, terraces, stairs and chairs spoke to him like old friends. “Don’t hurry, take it easy, life isn’t running away from you unless you chase it with fear,” the scenery said. 196

“Feel the happiness, it will bring you peace of mind.” It seemed like the place spoke to the whole family; the view made them all smile and they agreed with Mark’s decision with a silent consensus. The day stretched on and on like magic: the children romped with endless energy on a huge playground while Mark and Nadia walked along the shore of a little lake. After that they had a curious look at the wooden statues in the yard, then rented a boat and rocked on gentle waves for some time. Later in the afternoon Mark and Alexander sat on the pier trying to catch fish for their next meal while Nadia was teaching Maria to play checkers with huge pieces. After that they drove to nearby Sietiniezis Rock and just sat there, admiring the fabulous scenery. In the evening they sat by a fire, grilled sausages, told each other fairy tales and horror stories, and fell into a deep sleep at last. Next morning they drove across the border to Estonia and headed for Tartu because they wanted to get a taste of Tartu Hanseatic Days there. They arrived in Tartu and witnessed Hanseatic heritage revived at its best: there were fairs, workshops and even a traditionally Hanseatic wedding. The whole town was bustling and all passers-by were glowing with happiness. At Kohtla-Nõmme mining park on their way home they had – to Alexander’s delight – a guided tour, this time booked beforehand. They donned heavy miner’s jackets and were driven deep underground in a small mining railway carriage. They chopped oil shale from the ground with a pick hammer and a drill, listened 197

to exciting mining stories and ate an authentic miner’s lunch. They could all keep the kukersite chunks they had mined and take them home to have heating supplies handy during the oncoming winter to keep their house warm. Early in the evening they crossed the border to Russia. The family was heading back home on their native land once again. In Ivangorod they decided to visit the fortress and see a military exhibition, paintings by famous artists and historical relics. They decided to stop by Koporye fortress grounds as well before heading home. “All who take up the sword shall perish by the sword,” quoted Nadia. “That’s what the troops of Alexander Jaroslavovich said after they had defeated German crusaders under Koporye.” The medieval ruins of the fortress had withstood the test of time quite well, although you could still see the marks of countless battles on its walls. From the top of the Naugolnaya Tower they could see the most heart-warming view of the entire trip: their lovely homeland stretching out in front of them in the greyish blue and reddish colours of the sunset. Tired but happy, they got back in the car. By nightfall the black SUV reached Tallinskaya Street in St. Petersburg that had become even more beautiful in the meanwhile. They nudged the children gently awake, took their bags and suitcases and went to the best hotel in the whole world – their own home. Via Hanseatica remained a brilliant memory like the poetry of the immortal Russian poet Alexander Pushkin.

198

199

List of objects NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

Aerodium

142

184-185

www.aerodium.lv

AHHAA Science Centre in Tartu

112-113

www.ahhaa.ee

Air cable way over Gauja River valley in Sigulda

143

180-182

www.valmiera.lv

Alatskivi Castle

102

www.alatskiviloss.ee

Alutaguse Adventure Park

84-85

www.alutaguse.com

Avinurme 'Way Of Life' Centre

84,88

www.elulaadikeskus.ee

Avinurme Handicrafts Centre

84,88

www.puiduait.ee

AVOTI Holiday Complex

143

154, 156

www.avoti.com

Barclay de Tolly mausoleum

126,128-129

Belogorka Manor

Birch House in Gatchina Palace Park

www.gatchinapalace.ru

Brewery Valmiermuižas alus

143

157

www.valmiermuiza.lv

Cafe L.U.M.I

124

www.lumikohvik.ee

Carl Schmidt's House

www.csmaja.eu

Cēsis

143

168-172

www.tourism.cesis.lv

Cēsis Castle

142

168-171

www.tourism.cesis.lv

Children's Science Centre Z(in)oo

143

172

www.zinoo.lv

Christine Guild

130

christinegild.weebly.com

Collection of chairs in Bregži Farm

142

161

www.kocenunovads.lv

Dikļi manor

142

165-167

www.diklupils.lv

Dorpat Hotel

105,107,110, 112

www.dorpat.ee

Elistvere Animal Park

94-97

200

www.puhkaeestis.ee/et/ barclay-de-tolly-mausoleum

loodusegakoos.ee/ elistvere-loomapark

NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

Elva

118-119

www.elva.ee

Ērgļu Cliffs

143

162

www.gnp.lv

Estonian Agricultural Museum

114-115

www.epm.ee

Estonian Aviation Museum

115-117

www.lennundusmuuseum.ee

Gakkel Haus Hotel

Gatchina

28-31

www.gatchina.biz

Gatchina Palace and Estate Museum

28-31

www.gatchinapalace.ru

Gatchina Pavlovsky Cathedral

Gatchina Town Museum

Gauja National Park

147-149, 162-164, 180-190

Gauja tram

142

154-155

www.bungee.lv

GMP Clubhotel – exclusive guest apartments

124-125

www.gmp.ee

Gutman's Cave

142

189

www.gnp.lv

Helme Order Castle ruins

130-133

House of Aleksandr Pushkin's nanny

37-41

www.oblmuseums.spb.ru

Iisaku Museum

84-85

www.iisakumuuseum.ee

Ingerburg Gates

Isaak Schwartz’s House Museum

Ivangorod

64-66, 198

Ivangorod Church of the Holy Trinity

Ivangorod Fortress

64-65, 198

www.museum.ru/m2728

Ivangorod History, Architecture and Art Museum

64-65, 198

www.ivangorod.ru/sights/ museums.html

www.gakkel.ru

www.soborgatchina.ru/home

www.gnp.lv

www.puhkaeestis.ee/et/ helme-ordulinnuse-varemed

www.muzgk.ru/index.php/omuzee-i-shvatza-all-info

201

www.ivangorod.ru

NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

Karula National Park

141

www.puhkaeestis.ee/ et/karula-rahvuspark-jakulastuskeskus-ahijarve-aares-1

Kasepää, Varnja and Kolkja Olbbelievers’ villages

99-101

www.puhkaeestis.ee/et/ sihtkohad/kultuurivaartused/ vene-vanausulised

Kauksi beach

loodusegakoos.ee/ kuhuminna/puhkealad/peipsipohjaranniku-puhkeala

Kingisepp

53-63

Kingisepp Museum of Local History and Tradition

Kiviõli Adventure Centre

Kohtla Mining Park

82-83, 197-198

Koporye Fortress

55, 198

Kukruse Polar Manor

80-82

www.kukrusemois.ee

Kuremäe Convent

84,86

www.illuka.ee

Lake Võrtsjärv

118,119

www.vortsjarv.ee

Läti Saatkond cafe

192-193

www.lätisaatkond.ee

Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum

142

175-179

www.brivdabasmuzejs.lv

Līgatne

119

www.visitligatne.lv

Luke Manor

142

133

www.lukemois.ee

Mazais Ansis

142

196

www.mazais-ansis.lv

Museum of Strenči Psychoneurological Hospital

143

153

www.strencunovads.lv

Musta Kõutsi Tavern

130

mustkouts.wix.com/kouts

Narva

68-71

Narva College of the University of Tartu

www.narva.ut.ee

Narva Fortress

www.narvamuuseum.ee

202

www.tuhamagi.ee www.kaevanduspark.ee

www.tourism.narva.ee

NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

Narva-Jõesuu

72-73

www.narva-joesuu.ee

Onion Road

99-102

www.sibulatee.ee

Ontika Limestone cliff

77-79

www.puhkaeestis.ee/et/ ontika-pankrannik-baltiklindi-korgeim-osa

Oru Park

Otepää

118, 121-127

Otepää Winter Sports Museum

123-124

www.puhkaeestis.ee/otepaatalispordimuuseum

Palamuse O. Luts’s Parish School Museum

84, 90-91

www.palmuseum.ee

Pavel Scherbov's Historical Museum Estate

Peipsi Lake

84-88, 99-101

Põltsamaa

90-94

Põltsamaa Castle

www.poltsamaaloss.ee

Priory Palace and Museum

www.gatchinapalace.ru

Pühajärve

124

www.pyhajarve.com

Rāmkalni

142

193

www.ramkalni.lv

Recreation complex Rakši

143

173-174

www.kamieli.lv

Restaurant "Vein ja vine"

111

www.veinjavine.ee

Restaurant Rātes vārti

143

157

www.ratesvarti.lv

Riga

142

191-195

Romanovka Park in Kingisepp

Rõngu bakery

120

Rozhdestveno Memorial Manor

48-52

Ruins of Krimulda medieval Castle

142

180, 182

www.krimuldaspils.lv

Sangaste Castle

136-137

www.sangasteloss.ee

www.toila.ee www.otepaa.eu

www.visitpeipsi.com www.visitpoltsamaa.com

www.riga.com

www.rongupagar.ee

203

NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

Sangaste Rye Village

134-138

www.sangasterukkikyla.eu

Sankt Petersburg

8-26

www.saint-petersburg.com

Secret Soviet bunker in Ligatne

142

177

www.bunkurs.lv

Seda Bog

143

148-150

www.strencunovads.lv

Sietiņiezis Nature Trail

143

164,197

www.kocenunovads.lv

Sigulda

142

180-190

tourism.sigulda.lv

Sigulda bobsled and luge track

142

183

www.bobslejs.lv

Sigulda medieval Castle

142

Sillamäe

74-76

St. Catherine's Cathedral in Yamburg

Strenči

143

151-153

www.strencunovads.lv

100

Strenči Nature Trail

143

148

www.strencunovads.lv

101

Suida Manor Museum

34-36

102

Taagepera Castle

132

www.taagepera.eu

103

Tartu

104-117, 197

www.visittartu.com

104

Tartu Toy Museum

108

www.mm.ee

105

Tarzāns Adventure park

142

187

www.tarzans.lv

106

Tavern-pizzeria Liepziedi un Rozmarīns

143

158-160

107

Taytsy Manor

27-28

108

Tehvandi Sports Centre

122-123

109

The Church of the Resurrection of Christ

110

The nature reserve of Kurgalsky Peninsula

111

The Nicholas Roerich Manor Museum

112

The Stationmaster's House Museum

42-47

204

tourism.sigulda.lv www.sillamae-muuseum.ee

www.oblmuseums.spb.ru

www.vinkalniesi.lv

www.tehvandi.ee

www.russianmuseums.info/M249

NR.

Name of object

Map page

Book page

Internet address

113

Turaida Museum Reserve

142

188-190

www.turaida-muzejs.lv

114

Vaivara Sinimägede Museum

turism.vaivaravald.ee/

115

Valaste Waterfall

77-79

116

Valga

139-141

117

Valga Jaani (St John’s) Church

140

www.puhkaeestis.ee/ et/object/2480

118

Valga Military Theme Park

140

www.isamaalinemuuseum.ee

119

Valka

143

144-146

120

Valka Local History Museum

143

145

muzejs.valka.lv

121

Valka-Lugaži Evangelical Lutheran Church

143

145

www.valkas.lelb.lv

122

Valmiera

143

154-160

www.valmiera.lv

123

Valmiera Museum

143

154

muzejs.valmiera.lv

124

Valmiera St. Simon's Lutheran Church

143

155

visit.valmiera.lv

125

Vekši and Zīle nature trails

143

147

www.valka.lv

126

Venus Pavilion on the Island of Love in Gatchina Palace Park

www.gatchinapalace.ru

127

Vienkoču Park

142

176

www.vienkoci.lv

128

Vijciems Cone Kiln

143

146

www.latvia.travel/en/sight/ vijciems-cone-drying-kiln

129

Vudila whole family playland

94, 95, 98

www.vudila.ee

130

Werner Café & Lounge

110

www.werner.ee

131

Yam Fortress

132

Zilaiskalns Hill and an offering stone

142

163

www.kocenunovads.lv

133

Ice Age Centre

142

103

www.jaaaeg.ee

www.puhkaeestis.ee/et/ valaste-juga-eesti-korgeim www.valgalv.ee

www.valka.lv

205

Quiz answers What were the most popular children’s names in Russia in 2012? B) Alexander and Anastasia How many underground lines were there in St. Petersburg in 2014? B) 5 (The sixth line is due to be launched by 2020.) What is the Cruiser Aurora of Russian Fleet significant for? C) In 1917, a blank gun shot from Aurora signalled the beginning of the October Revolution Why does Nadia often frown at Mark and Alexander’s jokes? C) She is afraid to have lost her son’s respect as he makes jokes about her By whom was Pushkin mortally wounded in a duel? A) His wife’s alleged lover What was the point of ‘Tsar Saltan’ in Mark’s mind? B) Future happiness cannot be found in the past C) Choosing between several women will end in tragedy What was Mark’s line of business? B) His company developed and marketed renewable energy equipment Why was Nadia overly interested in Dmitri? B) Her husband had neglected her because of his work and personal problems What did Mark dream of when he was having a nap in the car? C) Of a man with two faces inviting him to Riga Why did the border crossing feel like that? C) Mark was crossing a border in himself 206

What do Narva, Tallinn and Lübeck have in common? B) They shared the same town law (the Lübeck law) Which is the scientific name of oil shale? B) Kukersite Which is the twin town of Põltsamaa in Latvia? C) Skrunda Under which name was Tartu first mentioned in the Russian chronicles? C) Jurjev According to Valmiermuiža Brewery, what is the most important component of a good beer? B) Good manor What is the name of the oldest pizza bar in Latvia? B) Lulu How many times has Cēsis Castle been the battleground between Russian and Swedish armies? B) 2 How are llamas used at Rakši Recreation Complex? B) For carrying picnic baskets How fast does the wind blow in the Aerodium tunnel? C) 200 km/hour

207

Unforgettable Adventures on the Via Hanseatica

St. Petersburg RUSSIA ESTONIA

Unforgettable Adventures on the Via Hanseatica LATVIA

Riga