VICARIOUS 004 | December 2018 | exhausted.ca by VICARIOUS Magazine

December 2018

Perspective

Featured Region

Discovered

Keeping I-PACE with Technology Wayne Burgess on the Future of Jaguar

Volcanoes and Sapphire Lakes Paradise Found in the Azores

Suburban Adventures on P.E.I. 1 Soul Food in Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Birthplace 1

THE 8

Contents 6

Editor in Chief Letter

Managing Editor Letter

Founder, Editor in Chief

Jeffrey Voth Managing Editor

Contributors

Ten Minutes To Paradise

Turn-key Tourist

Woodward Dream Cruise

When The Bullitt Hits The Road

2018 BMW i8 Roadster

Classic Meets The Future

Stopping For Coffee

Jim Leggett

Aerodynamics In The Classic Jaguar Look

Meeting With The Presidents

2018 Yamaha XSR700

Coming Home

Michelin

Our Team

Discovered

Photo Essay

Discovered

Sabrina Giacomini Contributing Writers

Kelly Taylor Lou Ann Hammond Dan Heyman Harry Pegg

Featured Car

Philippe Sommer

Special Feature

Miranda Lightstone

Splash and Dash

Auto Art

Jim Leggett Peter Hessels

Perspective

Featured Road

Design & Layout

Ilyes Fourar

Featured Motorcycle

Discovered

Sponsored Content

RENNsport Reunion VI Special Feature

102

Serengeti

104

We Built This City On Rock And Roll

114

Riley Meets The Dream Merchant

118

Azores, The Archangel Archipelgo

122

Exit Lane

Sponsored Content

New Roads

Behind the Scenes

Featured Region

VICARIOUS is powered by exhausted.ca, a division of Wide Open Media. No part of this publication may be copied or reprinted without the written consent of the publisher. The views expressed by the contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, editors and staff. Customer service: sales@womcanada.com | Published in Canada To subscribe, visit www.vicariousmag.com Cover Photo: CÄ&#x192;lin-Andrei Stan

Contributing Photographer

Peter Hessels Director of Sales

Jeffrey Voth 905.327.3944 jvoth@exhausted.ca

Weekends are for Brunching Experience TOCAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian Saturday Brunch Buffet or Legendary Sunday Brunch Buffet

Bottomless Mimosas Signature Seafood Bar For reservations: info@tocarestaurant.com|416-572-8008 tocarestaurant.com|@tocatoronto 181 Wellington Street West, Toronto

Editor in Chief

“ Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all.” - Helen Keller

The great unknown is one of the main driving factors in my life. I am reminded of this on a daily basis as we embark on this most excellent automotive adventure we have entitled VICARIOUS magazine. Venturing where few would dare to go has always been my personal mantra. It’s in my DNA. Whether it is taking the path less travelled on the backroads of India to help those less fortunate, or channeling my inner Ayrton Senna and driving hellbent for the next corner on suddenly snow-covered Tuscan roads behind the wheel of a matte black Lamborghini Aventador wearing summer tires. In that moment, I was Batman! Life is worth living, every single day, every single second! So, it is with a great sense of pride and accomplishment, as well as a whole lot of sweat and white knuckle moments, that our team at VICARIOUS magazine presents issue #4. It goes without saying we wouldn’t be here, or be having as much fun, if we didn’t have such an exceptional team of writers, photographers and artists contributing in each and every issue. But, first and foremost, it is you the readers and subscribers to our magazine that provide us with the ultimate motivation to seek out what’s around the next corner and bring it to life in our beautifully crafted digital magazine. In this issue, we are pleased to once again introduce several new contributors. Lou Ann Hammond, a longtime friend and a skilled raconteur takes us for a stroll around the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, introducing us to some of the most beautiful cars on the planet. Gifted photographer Jim Leggett works his magic behind the camera lens showcasing the Bonneville Salt Flats and a few of his favourite oldies but goodies. Of course, Dan Heyman is back, this time overloading on Porsches and coffee for the cause. So too are Miranda, Kelly, Phillipe and more. Special thanks to Wayne Burgess, Production Studio Director & SVO Projects at Jaguar Worldwide for his personal insight and behind-the-scenes look at the new Jaguar I-PACE. Not only is this the next step in electric vehicle technology, it is every bit a luxury sport utility vehicle for today’s driver, taking its rightful place alongside the current feline portfolio of desirable sports cars and SUVs. Where the road will take you next is something we spend every waking moment thinking about so that you can get out there for yourself and see the world. With so many interesting destinations to discover, and no better time in the 133 year history of the automobile to drive something truly amazing, we hope our latest creation will lead you out the door and down the road on your very own daring adventure. It will change you and while it might be a little scary at first, change is always good. Love life, drive well!

Jeff Voth Editor in Chief, VICARIOUS jvoth@exhausted.ca 6

Island

To the energetic explorersâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;the bold, brave and daring. To those who leap at the chance to make each day more invigorating than the last. This is your island. A breathtaking destination, filled with wandering trails, endless beaches and unique experiences everywhere you look. Pack your gear and your curiosity. Come find Prince Edward Island. RUN. SPLASH. PUTT. DANCE. DINE. One amazing Island. Endless possibilities. Book your Prince Edward Island vacation today at ExplorePEI.com Let us take you there with the most ďŹ&#x201A;ights to Charlottetown. Book now at aircanada.com/PEI or contact your travel agent.

Managing Editor

“There is no certainty, there is only adventure.” - Roberto Assagioli

Already a year! With December comes the Holidays and, inevitably, the New Year. In January, we will be celebrating VICARIOUS’ first anniversary. I chose my quote for this issue very carefully because it perfectly illustrates the first twelve months of this wonderful adventure our magazine has been. From a simple brainstorm seated at a coffee shop, tossing names and ideas around, not knowing how far it could go, to deciding on a logo and layout whipped up by a wonderful designer, photographer, and friend, Jasmine Van Heijster-Waheed, to the fourth gorgeous issue of the magazine you are now looking at—the adventure is only beginning and it’s already taken us this far! With the Holidays and the end of the year fast approaching, I would like to be thankful. Thankful for all the amazing people, writers, and talents of all genres who are as crazy about our project as we are and have helped us propel VICARIOUS to a whole new level. And this is just the first of many more levels to come, we are only getting started. For this last issue of 2018, our team of writers has once again travelled far and wide on amazing adventures. From a tour around Prince Edward Island with Editor in Chief Jeff Voth, a trip through the gorgeous Azores in our Featured Region in the words of Philippe Sommer, to a behind-the-scenes look at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance with one of our newest contributors, Lou Ann Hammond. Thank you to all our readers for our first wonderful year. Happy Holidays and see you all in 2019!

Sabrina Giacomini Managing Editor, VICARIOUS sgiacomini@exhausted.ca

Contributors

L ou A nn H Ammond Lou Ann Hammond is the CEO of Carlist and Driving the Nation. She is the Automotive and energy correspondent for The John Batchelor Show and a Contributor to Automotive Electronics magazine headquartered in Korea. Hammond is a founding member of the Women’s World Car of the Year #WWCOTY. She is a guest contributor for Via Corsa magazine and VICARIOUS magazine. Hammond loves cars, traveling in style and the beautiful sounds and sights of Nature. Simple and elegant are the construct of her life and what she enjoys writing about the most. Handmade, bespoke creations are what inspire her life. People who are inspired are her friends. Be inspired, be real, be her friend. Enjoy life vicariously with her.

K eLLy T AyLor Kelly Taylor took over an automotive section from an editor who didn’t drive, and hasn’t looked back since. He’s moved on from editing to writing and loves the freedom unshackling from the desk provides. A winner of multiple awards, including twice as Canadian Automotive Journalist of the Year and the recipient of the 2015 Gold Medallion and Best in Newspapers award from the International Automotive Media Competition, Taylor’s passion is everything automotive.

d An H eymAn Years of magazine reading, movie watching (Gone in 60 Seconds ftw!) and Hot Wheels collecting has given Vancouver, BC native Dan Heyman what some would say is an unhealthy obsession with all things motorcar. His dream drive? A 1971 Porsche 917K racer on Circuit de La Sarthe in Le Mans, France. Heyman is especially passionate about his photography, having won the published photo of the year award from the Automobile Journalists Association of Canada (AJAC) where he serves on the board of directors.

H Arry P egg Harry Pegg has spent most of the last 50 years as a writer, editor and sometime designer at newspapers in Prince Albert, Red Deer and Calgary. He’s been writing about cars since 1992 and joined the Automobile Journalists Association of Canada (AJAC) in 1995, serving on the executive for 19 years, including two terms as president. Harry drives about 60 new vehicles a year along with open wheel race cars, stock cars, sprint cars, rally cars, even a racing big rig. He has seen icebergs up close in Alaska and Newfoundland, driven a large chunk of the Baja 1000 route and sat on a snowmobile on James Bay in February. What are Harry’s two favourite words in the English language? “ROAD TRIP!”

Discovered

I mage

PeI T ourIsm

Ten Minutes To Paradise s u b u r ba n

lIvIng In

P r I n c e e dwa r d I s l a n d

It took four years, one billion dollars, and a total of 5,000 people to construct the magnificent span of steel and concrete interlocking Prince Edward Island with the rest of Canada. My contribution to the project, known to the world as Confederation Bridge, takes a total of ten minutes one-way and costs $43. It seems a small pittance to travel this 12.9-kilometre engineering masterpiece.

S tory

and

P hotograPhy | J eff V oth

Befitting the profile of this most hospitable Province, no one is charged a fee until you decide to make your way off the island. Why anyone would ever choose to leave is beyond me. There is no place on the planet quite as refreshing for the soul as Canada’s birthplace. WestJet flight 3482 arrived in Halifax at 12:14 pm and we soon embarked on our East Coast escapade with suitcases, smartphones, and water bottles consuming every inch of the 2018 Chevrolet Suburban. Resplendent in black, with only a hint of satin-chrome on the wheels contrasting the metallic noir colour scheme, we exited the airport on a four-hour drive to Charlottetown looking every bit as official as a United States Secret Service vehicle doing reconnaissance for an upcoming diplomatic visit.

Halifax Stanfield International Airport receded in the mirrors as we drove north along Hwy 102 towards Truro, Nova Scotia and our first stop at Catch Of The Bay fish market in Masstown. Renowned for its fish and chips, we baked outside under a hot summer sun as our haddock deep fried inside covered in batter, waiting to be devoured. We were not alone. Their reputation for fine food was on full display with families filling the umbrella-covered tables, holding puckshaped buzzers like anxious bingo players waiting for their numbers to be called. It was an eating adventure worth the investment.

“ There is no place on the planet quite as refreshing for the soul as Canada’s birthplace.”

Back on the road, we turned northwest on the TransCanada Highway, Hwy 104, passing through Thompson Station, Amherst, and Fort Lawrence before making a sharp right at Aulac on to Hwy 12 taking a direct line towards the coast. A more scenic route from Halifax would have been to stay on Hwy 104 from Truro to New Glasgow, turn north on Hwy 106 then follow the coast on Hwy 6 with the Atlantic Ocean on your right. City names like Sea Foam, Tatamagouche, Pugwash, and Fox Harbour were hard to resist, but PEI was calling so that would have to wait for another day. Thirty minutes outside of Aulac, Confederation Bridge started to take shape, ascending skyward across the Northumberland Strait. It is an interesting sight, not what you might expect at first glance. It bends, twists and rises upward at various points, looking almost chaotic in its design. But this is part of the overall experience, driving across holds unexpected views of the bridge and ocean with every passing kilometre.

Suddenly, island shores came into view as we dropped from the sky to sandy red beaches below. Charlottetown was still a forty-five-minute drive away, but we were not headed in that direction today. Instead, our stay would be in an oceanside cottage on the Malpeque coast, breathing in the crisp sea air and watching the boats head out each morning in search of fresh lobster. Weather reports promised a sun-filled week and how could they be wrong, so my responsibilities would include driving to nearby Cabot Beach Provincial Park and setting up shop for the six of us as we basked in warm shallow waters and perfect sandy beaches. We werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only ones taking note of the beautiful weather, but there was plenty of room on the beach so it didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel overcrowded. I did have to share space with a host of small crabs scurrying about as we played football in the water. Thankfully their claws were small, so no toes were lost in my epic attempts to catch and release the pigskin.

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PeI T ourIsm 13

Renting a cottage on the coast affords the opportunity to prepare locally sourced food onsite and dine in. Or, as was our experience on one spectacular evening, enjoy the exceptional company of our neighbours for a feast of oysters, muscles, lobster, burgers, and so much more.

We experience this community spirit and a strong sense of family at the Fireworks Feast held each night at The Inn at Bay Fortune. Long wooden tables filled with laughter and excitement are just some of the signs this is not your average dining experience, but a feast for the senses.

Eating is a religion here in P.E.I. and they have it down to a science. Whoever claimed science and religion are mutually exclusive has obviously never been to the east coast of Canada.

Chef Michael Smith and his wife, the Innâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Proprietor Chasity Smith, have crafted a maritime masterpiece centered on great food, sustainability and open flames on 46 lush acres. The setting overlooks Fortune River as it journeys east towards the Northumberland Strait and the Atlantic Ocean.

Exploring this Province is in many ways a right of passage for those of us who live in this country. Of course, everyone is welcome to visit, but there is something so uniquely Canadian about the small towns, beaches, and farmlands of P.E.I. that it just feels like home.

The evening starts with refreshments and food stations spread across the property. An introduction to farmfresh ingredients captivates guests on the front lawn.

This moves quickly to the back garden as our host for the evening passionately explains the benefits of organic farming. Farm to fork is not just a catchy slogan here at The Inn, it’s a way of life. As the tour ends, an outside, open-flame sausage station with homemade chutney and an oyster bar inside are swarmed with famished guests ready to dive into the feast. Soon we are seated on the covered porch, knife and fork in hand enjoying every course expertly prepared under the watchful eye of the Fire Brigade. The night ends with marshmallows roasted around a campfire, sticky fingers never tasted so good. A week of exploring Prince Edward Island is not enough time to fully appreciate this one-ofa-kind setting.

There are the traditional tourist stops that are a must see for all such as the Anne of Green Gables Museum, Lucy Maud Montgomery’s birthplace, Cow’s Ice Cream Parlour, the French River lookout, Charlottetown’s burgeoning restaurant and craft beer scene, Richard’s for lobster rolls and Cavendish to name a few. But wherever you go on the island, the calming sense that you are home is never far away. The ten minutes it takes to cross Confederation Bridge and arrive in paradise is an investment well worth the price of admission. And they won’t even charge you until you leave! Now that’s island hospitality.

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a lex b ruce P hotograPhy

Chef Michael Smith F ood N etwork H ost , N utritioNal a ctivist , F ood M edia P roducer , i NNkeePer

Chef Michael Smith, one of Canada’s best-known chefs, is a passionate advocate for simple, sustainable home cooking and an inspiration for families creating their own healthy food lifestyle. He’s the host of Chef Michael’s Kitchen, Chef at Home and Chef Abroad seen on Food Network Canada and in more than 100 other countries. He’s a judge on Chopped Canada and traveled the world for his innovative web series Lentil Hunter. Chef Michael and his wife Chastity are the proprietors of The Inn at Bay Fortune on Prince Edward Island. They’ve relaunched the property where Michael gained international fame in the 1990s with a new spirit of fivestar hospitality and an innovative dining experience, the FireWorks.

Michael is Prince Edward Island’s food ambassador; Canada’s best selling cookbook author, an innkeeper, educator, professional chef and home cook. He led the team of Sodexo chefs that cooked for the world’s Olympians in the Whistler Athletes’ Village in 2010. His tenth award-winning cookbook, Real Food, Real Good, launched in September 2016 and immediately landed on the Globe and Mail bestsellers list. His food media production company and test kitchen, Culinart Limited, is breaking new ground and his social media platforms are Canada’s top choice for foodie fun. While Michael is a true chef at large his favourite role is Dad, at home on Prince Edward Island with his wife Chastity and his children: Gabe, Ariella, and Camille! Michael is an avid map collector, long-time windsurfer and novice kite sailor.

Featured Hotels

Turn-key Tourist

turn-key (adjective): of or involving the provision of a complete service that is ready for immediate use.

S tory | J eff V oth

h ôtel Q uinteSSence At Hôtel Quintessence, valet attendants are quick to open your doors and whisk you inside what is certainly one of Canada’s finest luxury boutique hotels. The exclusive waterfront location ensures privacy and an amazing view of Lake Tremblant whatever time of the year you visit. Suites are magnificent, thick carpets and warm wood furnishings provide a sense of comfort, as though staying at your own personal cottage. A king-sized bed is perfectly placed to take advantage of the lake view. So too the whirlpool tub as it overlooks the living and bedroom areas. The tub even features a handy remote so you never have to leave. Dining takes place at Restaurant La Quintessence & Winebar located on the lower level of the hotel. Activities at the hotel include Spa Sans Sabot, offering a full menu of services in a contemporary yet casual setting. Nearby Mont Tremblant provides additional dining options, shopping, culture and world-class skiing in winter. Address: 3004, Chemin de la Chapelle, Mont-Tremblant, Québec, Canada J8E 1E1 Website: http://hotelquintessence.com

A ndAz W All S treet Andaz Wall Street from Hyatt is a unique New York-style hotel in a city ripe with incredible places to stay for a weekend or a business trip. Located a short stroll from the water’s edge and close to the Brooklyn Bridge, it demonstrates first-class from the moment you enter the main doors. Rooms are filled with light courtesy of floor to ceiling windows. The view looks out towards Wall Street, the distant skyline blocked in all directions with high office towers and glass buildings. It’s the setting of money. Muted tones decorate the walls, a comfy king-size bed on one side, large TV on the other. Innovative touches include a Sleep Menu and well stocked, complimentary non-alcoholic mini-bar. Dinner is served at Andaz Kitchen & Bar. It features a renowned market-to-table menu highlighting ingredients from the Hudson Valley Region. Chef recommendations include a grilled prime rib New York steak, of course. Address: 75 Wall Street, New York, New York, United States 10005 Website: https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/new-york/andaz-wall-street/nycaw

c Arlton h otel S t . M oritz The Carlton Hotel is a beacon of comfort in this one-of-a-kind resort destination. Sixty south-facing suites and junior suites overlook the St. Moritz lake and Alps, adjacent to the town of St. Moritz. Interior designer Carlo Rampazzi was given a blank canvas on which to create a hotel complimentary to its illustrious heritage, but also in tune with today’s savvy traveller. His design theme showcases unique décor in every room, even going so far as to implement different colour schemes and artwork throughout each hallway. The 1,200 sq. meters Carlton Spa offers a full menu of services in a lavish setting complete with views of snow top covered mountains. Two pools, one indoor and one heated outdoor, adjoin to form a cocoon of relaxation. Dining takes place at Da Vittorio – St. Moritz and Restaurant Romanoff, while the hotel bar is an excellent place to reflect on the day’s activities. Address: Via Johannes Badrutt 11, CH-7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland Website: https://carlton-stmoritz.ch

c oronAdo i SlAnd M Arriott r eSort & S pA Coronado Island Marriott Resort & Spa is ideally situated with views facing the downtown skyline of San Diego near the Ferry Landing Marketplace. The three-storey deluxe resort features newly redesigned rooms and suites for an exceptional stay. Interior earth tones and pastel colours blend with the outside tropical atmosphere of the resort. The Spa at Coronado Island features a full menu of treatments to help relieve stress. You can also choose to relax in one of the three heated swimming pools located throughout the resort. Coastal cuisine is served at Current restaurant. Exceptional evening views overlook San Diego with Petco Park in the distance. Tides bar is the perfect setting for casual fair or Starbucks coffee. For the avid golfer, drive 30 kilometres and challenge your skills at magnificent Torrey Pines Municipal Golf Course. Address: 2000 Second Street, Coronado, California, United States 92118 Website: https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sanci-coronado-island-marriott-resort-and-spa

M AndArin o rientAl , M unich The renowned Mandarin-Oriental, Munich is conveniently located in the “Old Town” district. A perennial favourite of celebrities and dignitaries, it first opened in 1880 as the Johann Kilian Stützel’s Ballhaus. 73 rooms and suites define the interior space of the hotel, while a massive grand staircase graces the main lobby. Wide hallways lead to rooms featuring down-filled king-size beds, oversized marble baths, and the latest tech. Grand views of Munich’s majestic spires are visible through large windows overlooking the city. Museums, the Opera house, and the finest shops in town are all within walking distance of the hotel. The famous Hofbräuhaus and Glockenspiel at Marienplatz are mere steps away. Those seeking a luxurious dinner need look no further than Matsuhisa Munich. Casual fare is served at The Lounge, or for something a little different, guests can dine Mediterranean-style on the rooftop patio from May to October. Address: Neuturmstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, Germany Website: https://www.mandarinoriental.com/munich/altstadt/luxury-hotel

n itA l Ake l odge Nita Lake Lodge is uniquely positioned away from the main resort area of Whistler, British Columbia. Situated lakeside, most suites offer a serene view of crystal blue waters, lush green forests, and mountains stretching off into the distance. Studio suites feature a king-size bed, gas fireplace, comfy chairs, a full wet bar, and more. Bathrooms highlight a large bath for two, with separate stone tile shower and dual-sink vanity. Meals are served in style at Aura Restaurant, a full-service facility with both indoor and outdoor dining. The Pacific menu features locally sourced ingredients. Activities at Nita Lake Lodge include walking or riding a bike around the lake on a paved path that takes you all the way into the Olympic village. The Spa at Nita Lake Lodge offers a rooftop deck with two hot tubs and a plethora of spa treatments to relieve any lingering stress. Address: 2131 Lake Placid Road, Whistler, British Columbia, Canada V8E 0B2 Website: https://www.nitalakelodge.com

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Photo Essay

Woodward Dream Cruise C offee

is overrated , give me premium oCtane !

S tory

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P hotograPhy | P eter h eSSelS

It would have been easy to stay under the covers of my nice warm king-size bed. This was luxury at its finest, the Townsend Hotel in Detroit, Michigan. Breakfast was just a phone call away and I wouldn’t even need to get out from under the sheets to eat it. Coffee! The thought was mesmerizing. But not on this day, there was so much to see and do that it would be worth forgoing all the luxuries my hotel room could provide. Today, I was at the epicenter for custom hot rods and rat rods, cruisers, exotic cars, one-off trucks and newly minted Motown metal ready to tear up the tarmac. The aroma of freshly brewed java is nice, but nothing

beats the fragrant wafting of exhaust fumes, nitrous oxide and burned black rubber when it comes to overloading my senses. This is the annual automobile extravaganza known as the Woodward Dream Cruise- The World’s Biggest Cruise, and this year’s headliners included the original and a brand new edition of the famous Mustang Bullitt. Steve McQueen would never pass up gasoline for coffee and neither would I. Started in August 1995 as fundraiser for a local soccer field in Ferndale, Michigan, it has become the preeminent cruising event for car lovers in North America. Who needs coffee when so much naturallyaspirated caffeine was waiting for me outside. Let the adrenaline rush begin!

Discovered

When The Bullitt Hits The Road S tory

and

P hotograPhy | S abrina g iacomini

We are often told never to meet our idols. But when yours is a Highland green, 380-horsepower Mustang waiting for you in San Francisco, the answer can only be a resounding “yes”!

In fact, as we step out and roll away from the airport, I have no visual reference of the direction we are heading in. No ocean, no cityscape, nothing— only blue skies as far as the eye can see. It’s a slightly dizzying feeling.

One of the most famous and admittedly epic car chases in movie history, pits Lieutenant Frank Bullitt in a green 68 Ford Mustang GT Fastback against two hitmen at the wheel of a 68 Dodge Charger R/T 440 Magnum in the streets of San Francisco, California. Bullitt made Hollywood history and for 50 years, the seemingly never-ending chase has sparked the imagination of every car enthusiast in the world.

Our first pitstop out of the airport takes us to The Candy Store in Burlingame just south of San Francisco. The real “candy” here is the collection of classic cars found inside the “store”, which is in fact a museum. An appropriate name if you ask me. The building, a former dealership built in 1928, became a car enthusiast club in 1983; a sort of glorified man cave if I’ve ever seen one. Lined up outside the museum, a dozen Highland green Mustangs waiting for their drivers.

The movie also contributed to making the Mustang the icon it is today. It’s no surprise then that Ford highlighted the movie’s golden anniversary with a special edition pony, clad in green, of course. The launch event couldn’t take place anywhere else but in San Francisco and for 36 hours, we got to feel like McQueens at the wheel of the 2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt. Start the clock! We land in San Francisco airport in the early afternoon after a direct flight from Toronto. Unlike my previous “first sights” of California in Los Angeles and Palm Springs, the view from here lacks the painted hills I have been used to on previous trips.

But first, a peek inside the historical building and the equally historic collection. Between the rows of pristine collectibles, in a corner, highlighted by a “Bullitt” banner, Mustang GTs old and new stand side-by-side. The ‘68 Mustang on display is one of the hero cars used in the movie—this is as close as I’ll ever be to meeting Steve McQueen. After leaving us to marvel at the variety of old and sometimes rare findings on display, Ford finally hands over the key to one of the Mustangs parked outside and sends us on our merry way.

The next few hours are spent carving the gorgeous winding roads of Purisima Creek, El Corte de Madera Creek, and La Honda Creek Preserves. These are the kind of roads you see in tourism ads and in the movies, leaving you to wonder if they’re even real. Between the rows of majestic trees, the Mustang comfortably knits its way down routes 35 and 84. Left, then right, then left. The trees and bushes finally open up on the Pacific ocean. Oh glorious sight! That’s when we reach California Route 1, part of the legendary Pacific Coast Highway. Driving a Mustang along the coast; it hardly gets better than this. Up Route 1 we go through Half Moon Bay, on our way to San Francisco where after a bit of traffic, but definitely not as much as I expected, I get my first peek at the city’s most famous feature: the Golden Gate Bridge. Or at least whatever the fog allows us to see.

A sea of thick, rolling clouds shrouds the tip of the highest buildings and the bridge arches are covered in a dense, opaque fog. We are hosted for one night at the Cavallo Point Lodge, across the water, near Sausalito. The lodge is a luxury resort located on the U.S. Army’s former Fort Baker post, tucked between the hills. The site’s military history began in 1850 under the name Lime Point Military Reservation and served as a base for over 140 years. During World War II, the site counted as many as 159 structures, including a hospital and barracks. In 2002, it officially became the Golden Gate National Park. The hotel was developed integrating some of the former military buildings. A network of streets and paths connects all the historical and contemporary lodgings around the widespread resort. My room is in one of the six “condos” located in one of the more modern cottages.

I say condo because the room is big enough for the appellation; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only missing a kitchen! A neutral but warm decorative theme keeps the place current without having to update every time trends dictate something new. My room is well furnished, with a wall of windows opening up on the resort and the waterfront. Our second day of driving starts bright and early as we tackle the streets of San Francisco to retrace the steps of the epic car chase scene. We land on Richardson Avenue, before making a right on Gough Street. We then take a left on Pacific Ave, all the way down to Taylor Street. Taylor Street is the location of the most memorable part of the chase, at least in my opinion. In the movie, a Dodge Charger, followed by the Mustang, whizzes down Taylor street, putting those suspension to work at every transversal street. My co-driver and I cruise up and down Taylor Street a few times to truly appreciate the difficulty of navigating the hill. We then decide to veer off the designated movie course to head out to Pier 41, a more industrial part of the San Francisco waterfront and a great photo op with the car. We then make a pit stop at Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wharf where my co-driver treats himself to an 8-am clam chowder in sourdough bread from the Chowder Hut. I thought the idea was pretty silly, but after having a bite, frankly, when the chowder is this good, there is no right or wrong time to have it. After a warm snack on a cool morning and a busy day retracing the steps

of Steve McQueen in the Mustang Bullitt, we head back to the hotel where the event is wrapping up. As everyone else is packing up and getting ready to head back home, I get to enjoy an extra 24 hours in San Fran —it’s my first time in the city and I plan to make it count. Beyond anything I could have expected or even hoped for, one of the Ford reps hears I am staying an extra day and kindly hooks me up with a car for the afternoon. My plan to get a ride across the bridge and start walking the city gets postponed to the following day and I don’t think twice about resuming my exploration of the Pacific Coast Highway. My afternoon is about to take a serious turn for the better. I jump behind the wheel and leave without a plan. All I know is that I am following Route 1 as far and for as long as the four hours I have will allow. So I make my way up the coast through the rolling hills north of San Francisco, across the bay.

As I tackle the serpentine Route 1 in the Stinson Beach area, I notice a striking and recurring feature of the landscape that remains to this day the fondest memory of my drive that day. They say our sense of smell triggers the strongest memories. Well, from now on, the memory of my drive along the Pacific Coast Highway will forever smell of eucalyptus. Dozens and dozens of rainbow-trunk trees line the side of the Route 1 and their pleasant aroma will forever be associated with that peaceful and enjoyable drive. I manage to drive north as far as Hamlet along the coast, roughly 100 kilometers from the city, before I start to head back. The way back on highway 101 is a lot faster than driving the Route 1 hairpins, so I get back to the city with time to spare for a lunch by the water in Sausalito. I stop at the Barrelhouse Tavern on Bridgeway where I get to snack on seafood while watching seals poke their heads out of the blue San Francisco Bay waters.

My second night in the city isn’t nearly as glamorous as the first one. One thing you have to be prepared to do in San Francisco is spend money. A lot of it. Hotel rooms don’t come cheap and not even Airbnb will be your saving grace. Prior to my trip, I had researched a comfortable room somewhere in the city that placed me near enough to the attractions to walk. I finally found a small room with shared bathroom at the Hayes Valley Inn, a two-star hotel at the corner of Gough and Ivy in Hayes Valley. For a quick in and out after a good night sleep, the room serves its purpose. Even better: it puts me at walking distance of everything I wish to see. On the following day, I stuff my backpack full enough to carry three days worth of clothing, a laptop, and a camera, haul it on my shoulders, which makes me look like a turtle, and head out for my day of exploration around San Francisco. I have six hours on the clock before having to head to the airport, so out the door I go! I make my way to Van Ness Avenue and head north, towards the waterfront. While the unphased locals walk around like elegant mountain goats, Franklin the turtle over here carries her house on her back and straddles up and down the streets shaped by the rugged landscape of this California peninsula. On the way to Fisherman’s Wharf, my path crosses Lombard Street. You may or may not have heard the name, but the pictures should definitely trigger a memory. Instead of the usual two-way street I’ve encountered so far, there’s a portion of Lombard Street that’s been landscaped, creating a tight hairpin path down for cars, reminiscent of a small-scale Stelvio Pass. You can choose the easy way up by tackling the street heading West: there are convenient stairs up the steep hill, among the bushes and trees and flocks of tourists.

From my direction, however, heading East, the picturesque portion of the street is on the other side of the hill, which means I have to go up three blocks of what my mathematician’s eye is guessing is a perfect 30-degree angle inclination. And up I go, leaning forward and giving my legs the best workout they’ve had in a while. I do make it to the top, not without a short break in the middle to give my weary legs a rest. The view from the top is worth every drop of sweat as between the hillside houses opens up a partial view of the city that spreads to the mainland, onto the other side of the Bay.

“ ...the memory of my drive along the Pacific Coast Highway will forever smell of eucalyptus.” Leaving the twists and turns of the famed street behind, I head down Leavenworth that takes me straight down to the waterfront and Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s no wonder the location is on everybody’s lips: this is the ideal tourist hot spot with shops, restaurants, attractions and, of course, hundreds of different views of Alcatraz. As my day is drawing to an end, I make my way back through Chinatown and its famous Dragon Doors before jumping on the Bay Area Rapid Transit which takes me to the Airport for less than $10. In 48 hours, I drove a few hundred kilometres along the Pacific Coast Highway and walked a dozen more around Fog City. In two days, I never saw the Golden Gate Bridge in its entirety, but I did get the chance of a lifetime to drive a Mustang Bullitt in the streets of San Francisco.

I mage

provIded by

b randon n elson

Featured Car

P hotograPhy | P eter h essels

Special Feature

Classic Meets The Future T he e piTome

S tory

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p ebble b each

P hotograPhy | L ou a nn h ammond

The Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance has been the most prestigious classic car show in the world for over fifty years. The Concours is set on the 18th green at the Lodge at Pebble Beach in Monterey, California overlooking Stillwater Cove. The week leading up to the Concours is the week that car people live for, attending the mecca for car lovers from around the world; Monterey Car Week. It is physically impossible to go to every event during the week, but we worked our way through the many sculptural pieces of moving art ebbing and flowing with such greats as George Lucas, Jay Leno, Jewel, Jerry Seinfeld, and a host of race car drivers including Marino Franchitti.

M ercedes -B enz eQ s ilver A rrow Have you ever watched a tear as it rolls down your face or a raindrop as it slides down a window pane? The designers of the Mercedes-Benz EQ Silver Arrow concept have, and they designed the round cockpit glazing, modeled on a drop of water for its outline and cross-section. Digital and analog, leather and wood, the automotive sculpture is a concept electric car that gives homage to the W 125 twelvecylinder, a record-breaking car built by MercedesBenz in 1937 as a Grand Prix racing car. Gorden Wagener, Chief Design Officer at Daimler AG, drove the EQ Silver Arrow into the limelight, full of light and movement, sans any noise except the clapping hands of adoring fans. The EQC SUV will come to a dealership near you in 2019.

BMw Jozef Kaban, a former designer for Bugatti, is the new Chief designer for BMW. Kaban introduced the new Z4 line-up with the historical Z cars as a backdrop over the 18th green with a yacht lounging in Stillwater Cove. CEO Bernhard Kunht introduced the M8 concept, a vehicle that will compete nicely with the Audi A7, Porsche Panamera, and upcoming Mercedes-AMG GT in looks and performance.

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Rolls Royce twinkled in the limelight of Black Badge cars including the Dawn, Ghost, and Wraith. Along with the all-new Phantom, Rolls-Royce brought out the Cullinan, the world’s most expensive SUV. Google executive Ben Sloss and wife Christine took delivery of their Rolls-Royce Dawn Black Badge in the company’s signature colors yellow and dark navy livery colors.

What’s 5M€ between friends? A Bugatti Divo. Unfortunately, only forty were made, and they sold out immediately. Why? Because the lights are such a clever design that they are worth that much alone.

The fins are cut at certain angles, and the secondary fins are rounded and elongated to create a light show that should be in a Las Vegas show. Bugattis are identifiable to anyone through that one circular Bugatti line. The Bugatti line is smaller and thinner than the Chiron line, giving the Divo a more extended look.

The Divo head of exterior designer, Frank Heyl, described the Divo in sections, “the top two-thirds of the car is in the matte color, and is the more sculptural more muscular section, while the bottom third is more angular, more technological.”

The 1,500 horsepower supercooled supercar is named after Albert Divo, French racing driver and twotime winner of the famous Targa Florio race on the mountainous roads of Sicily with Bugatti in the late 1920s.

The lights are the magic and technological challenge. The non-illuminated mesh starts in the middle and blends with what Heyl calls fins, blending into the illuminated parts.

You can call to see if the one-of-a-kind Divo watch has already sold for $400,000, but you might be stuck with building a Divo from Legos.

B ugAtti d ivo

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Audi named the new concept after the eponymous Concours and the successful LMP1 racing car Audi R18 e-tron, the PB 18 e-tron concept. Audi is known for technology centered on the future of automated driving, but this concept is known in-house as Level Zero or the driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s car. The electric sports car performance mimics the R18 that took victory at Le Mans. In the Audi PB18 e-tron, the driver is the one steering and launching the vehicle from 0-60 in around two seconds. Get ready for your head to swivel from left to right if you want to see this beautiful vehicle because the four electric motors produce a combined 764 horsepower and 612 poundfeet of torque.

J AguAr Z ero

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The minute Prince Harry and Meghan Markle swooped off in a pearl blue electric Jaguar car enthusiast started talking about what it would cost to create a Jaguar evtype. Jaguar answered the question with Jaguar Zero. Not as in zero dollars, but a Zero Emissions Vehicle (ZEV). Jaguar is taking one of the most beloved, architecturally impressive car designs and bringing it to life in a back to the future moment; creating an electric conversion with quicker acceleration than the original Series 1 E-type.

i NfiNiti p rototype 10

While official pricing, technical specifications, and availability have yet to be announced, Jaguar Classic is now taking expressions of interest from potential E-type Zero clients. Deliveries of the first electric E-type vehicles are expected to start from summer 2020.

The new Prototype 10 is an open-cockpit speedster, and the second time Infiniti has shown us a vintage-inspired racecar concept with an all-electric drivetrain. Infiniti announced that every new model from 2021 on will be electrified.

I can only imagine that the Duke and Duchess of Sussex have already put their order in for the Zero, but if you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t afford the Jaguar E-type EV, you can purchase the same cutting-edge technology from the Jaguar I-PACE, the impressive zero-emissions performance SUV.

L AmborghiNi A veNtAdor SvJ

A curA NSX

Lamborghini can’t help itself; they only make cars that are fast, nimble and beautiful. The evening at the Lamborghini house was just like the supercar, filled with the Secret Lives of the Super Rich Monaco types talking about blockchains.

The Singer Jewel was taking requests at the Acura dinner. Most people were requesting her songs, but I shouted out, make something up, and she did, “oh, the lady with the nice white sportcoat and a flowered skirt asked me today what would I play for her, and I said, I would like to be...quite free.”

It was lovely to run into my old friend Nicholas Frankl, threetime winter Olympian and co-founder of My Yacht Group and his twin sister Annabelle. Lamborghini’s head of R&D, Maurizio Reggiani, talked about the pinnacle of Lamborghini V12 super sports cars that will be limited to 900 units. The 770 horsepower will stampede past you in a 0-60 of 2.8 seconds.

The New Sports eXperience, called NSX is best set free on the Pacific Coast Highway in a Thermal Orange Pearl premium paint option with an output of 573 horsepower and 476 lb.-ft. of torque. Now that’s worth singing about...quite free.

S inger P orSche Who better to talk about the Singer Dynamics and Lightweighting Study (DLS) show car than Marino Franchitti. Franchitti is not only a legendary race car driver, but he is also the development driver for Singer. Franchitti is a massive air-cooled Porsche fan, so it was a natural fit to have Franchitti test-drive the $1.8-million performance vehicle. Underneath the Singer is a 964 Porsche. The 2200 pound 1990 Porsche has been carbon-bodied to create a light power-to-weight ratio. The 500 horsepower with a 9,003 rpm redline holds an impressive power-to-weight ratio. Every single surface of the car has been developed in conjunction with the Williams Formula 1. The ducktail on the Singer is more than a decoration; it gives downforce. The lines are sweet; the air-cooled 911 engine has all the idiosyncrasies of a Porsche. Franchitti’s job, as he sees it, is not just to make a race car, but “to make the driver feel special. It’s a 964 Porsche, but the driving is more akin to a 997 4-liter.” Feeling special shouldn’t be any harder than starting the Singer DLS and turning the radio to Time by Pink Floyd as you race on.

A Ston M Artin The last couple of years Aston Martin have created a pop-up store in the center of Carmel during Monterey Car Week. This year the Director of Design, Miles Nurnberger was on hand to tell me about the Aston Martin Lagonda Vision Concept. Lagonda is a brand that Aston Martin has owned since about 1985 and showed the electrified concept at the Geneva Motor Show first. The Lagonda is what a luxury autonomous electric limousine will look like in the future. Luxury and privacy are what people with wealth are looking for in futuristic cars. Aston Martin is looking at bringing this car to market with the availability of a Level 4 in 2020. The spaciousness comes from the batteries occupying the floor of the vehicle. To drive or to be driven in an autonomous electrified car is a focus of Aston Martin’s future, and as long as it still encapsulates the luxury of Aston Martin I’m okay with that.

WHEN NIGHT ARRIVES A N D L I G H T R E T R E AT S

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Splash and Dash

Stopping for Coffee in the 2018 BMW 640 GT

S tory

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P hotograPhy | d an h eyman

I’m going say it right off the top: I’m not a coffee guy. I have very good friends and family members who swear by the stuff, but I just never really got it. If I need caffeine, it’s Coke Zero for me. My not liking coffee, however, doesn’t preclude me from respecting what Starbucks has done over the years. I’m not a golf fan, but I love what Tiger Woods was doing in his prime because we all like witnessing greatness, whether the subject matter is to our personal tastes or not. Greatness, indeed; since 1977, Starbucks has blossomed from a little startup on Pike Place in Seattle, Washington, to being one of the largest foodservice chains in North America and the world, with almost 30,000 locations.

The drive to the cradle of coffee in Seattle is fairly uneventful at first, taking you through BC’s southwestern farmland through the surprisingly serene and well-manicured Peace Arch border crossing into Blaine, Washington. After that, it’s a cruise through the edge of the Cascade mountain range until you arrive on the outskirts of Seattle. If you want a pleasing diversion on the way down, however, check out friendly La Conner on the banks of the Swinomish Channel. Come for the old fishing boats still moored there, stay for the art galleries and antique shops. After that, it’s pretty much a straight shot to Seattle, although there are a few bends as you wind through the foothills that gave me the chance to test the handling chops of the Bimmer.

It was with that in mind that I set out from Vancouver, British Columbia and 280 kilometres or so south down I-5 to see where it all began, and to see how far it’s come over the years.

Overall, it’s good; direct steering, well-controlled body movements, as well as optional rear-wheel steering, give what is a pretty large car a little extra agility while keeping the occupants comfortable. All essential qualities when it comes to continent-crossing.

My steed? The BMW 640 Gran Turismo (“GT”), the latest addition to the 6 Series line-up. Essentially, the GT takes the trunk found in the other Sixers and swaps it for a hatch, making it easy to load a stroller and bags for three. We also had a rear-facing child seat, and thanks to a surprisingly roomy second row, fitting it was no problem.

The 640 GT does, however, suffer from a somewhat numb front end, which I’ve seen on quite a few Bimmers lately. You get the sense that there’s a giant air bubble just behind the dash, between you and the front axle. You know that when you turn the wheel the call will react quickly, but it feels a little disconnected while doing so.

The powertrain, however, is a delight. The 640’s 3.0L turbo-6 makes 335 hp and 332 lb-ft of torque. It’s V8smooth in its operation, without any of the peakiness you’d expect from a turbocharged engine. BMW has been making fantastic straight-sixes for years, and even when turbocharged, the ‘plant in the 640 GT ticks all the right boxes. The ride is wonderfully neutral on all but the boldest road imperfections and truly makes covering vast highway kilometres (or miles) a breeze. There were many times during my drive that I just sat back in those great chocolate brown seats and let the GT whisk us along, its slippery shape killing wind noise and those great dampers keeping me and my wife comfortable, my 11-month old in dreamland. This is top trumps cruising, this is, and kudos to BMW for delivering such a complete package in that vein.

Pike Place in Seattle’s waterfront market by the same name may not hold quite the cachet as does Fisherman’s Wharf down in San Francisco, but it nevertheless does a bang-up job of anchoring the old and blending it with the new. While trawlers and trains have now been replaced by cruise ships and Ubers, you don’t have to go far to be transported into another era. Post Alley, for example, looks like it really hasn’t been touched in years; case-inpoint the Gum Wall, which is covered in layers of gum so thick you’d swear they’re from the Silent Era. The ground below you there is all cobbled, and the signage for the various dive bars-cum-tourist attractions makes you feel like you’re walking through a movie set yourself. While 1977 is a long time after the Pike Market area began its gentrification, walking into the first Starbucks at 1912 Pike Place is surreal in its quaintness. Get there early, though; it’s busy all the time, especially when a cruise ship dumps out, and they do so quite regularly making for a solid 30-60 minute wait.

You’re greeted with a logo that’s a little less PG than today and just one long counter on the right sitting perpendicular to where your drink’s being crafted. The left-hand wall is packed with memorabilia; mugs with “first Starbucks” inscriptions, t-shirts, brown aprons (no green here) and so on. You’ll also find a blend called “Pike Place”; it’s available here, and only here—no other Starbucks gets it. Not the one down your block, not at world HQ ten minutes south of S’bucks #1; nowhere but here, and it’s yours for US$10.95. Coffee guy or no, I ordered a drink and took it all in— for about five minutes. You see, hallowed coffee ground or not, this is a small spot and you kind of get the feel for it after about five minutes. It’s worth the visit, if not necessarily the wait.

Indeed, if you’re in Seattle and looking for the fullStarbucks experience, there are better options. The monolithic HQ building is worth a visit; there’s a fullyserviced Starbucks location as you enter, and it stands as part of the brand’s “Reserve” line, meaning a bigger space, employees in white instead of green and the availability of certain blends from all over the world—Kenya, Brazil, Nicaragua—for a limited amount of time. They also serve baked goods developed in Italy’s famous Princi bakery, a partnership which will result in a Turin Starbucks Reserve location soon, the first in Europe. It’s worth a look, but it is off the beaten track a little and it’s not the Starbucks to see in Seattle. That honour goes to the Roastery, located in the Capitol Hill area east of downtown. It’s one of two such locations in the world— the other’s in Shanghai—and it’s like a Starbucks Reserve on PEDs.

This is mecca not only for Starbucks people, but coffee people in general because this is where it all starts; the beans come in raw and green to the delivery bay and go through the roasting process straight to your cup. There are four different service locations here—one for cold brews only, one for your traditional S’bucks fare, one fully-serviced bar and one food counter stocked with Princi recipes running the gamut from pizza (try the smoked salmon) to lasagna and baked goods. Interspersed among all this are numerous memorabilia stands and lots of seating, including quieter banquetstyle rooms off the main floor. Try a nitrogen-frozen coffee float, or a flight—yes, a microbrewery-style flight!—of three different S’bucks Reserve blends. The dining/drinking area forms a horseshoe around the production facility; you can see the beans go from the silos, to the micro-roaster, to the small batch roaster, the

copper casks, to more silos, and on to the scooping bar, their last stop. Between two roasters, up to 125 lb of beans are roasted per hour; if you’re wondering what’s currently being roasted, take a look at the true-to-life classic train station-style arrival/departures sign above. Rumour has it that it’s so genuine, they have to fly in European specialists to service it. It serves as a bit of a crown to the whole operation, that sign. It has to be genuine because that’s the only way it would fit the surroundings. Coffee person or no, it’s quite satisfying to know that what you’re drinking hasn’t had to travel that far to get to your mug. Starbucks #1 is kitschy cool, but it’s the Roastery that’s the real story. Speaking of travelling far—the 640 GT was made for it, and it does it well. It’s roomy, it’s airy, it looks the part and most of all, while you’re happy to have arrived, the prospect of heading out again is as easy to swallow as a steaming hot Burundian Ngozi blend.

Some things never stop being cool.

Even if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re Old School.

Photo: Steve Moretti Bike: Kyle Harrison 1973 Honda 450 Black Bomber 60

The best mechanical craftsmanship, married to the finest modern technology. Driven by some pretty cool dudes. Like this cafĂŠd 1973 Bomber - like Flash Reproductions

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Auto Art

Born and raised across the river facing Montreal, it is no wonder Jim Leggett has a long list of jobs, passions and creative influences. The Gilles Villeneuve racetrack sits literally on an island at the foot of his hometown street and he has covered every type of motorsports from karting to NASCAR, IndyCar, IMSA and F1. Leggett could never be accused of following a straight line in schooling, career path or his countless road trips. After a brief stint in a Graphic Design program at art college after high school, he was advised to try working in the field, learning on the job, rather than the more structured curriculum of formal education. Landing a job in a small promotions company he was a one man art department in 1979. “I knew just about nothing and had to learn very quickly on actual jobs from the other trades such as photographers, typesetters and printers,” laughs Leggett. “It was like being an apprentice in the old days. You learned your trade from each craftsman.” After a few years of working in studios and agencies, Leggett’s independent streak led him to quit working for a regular pay cheque and go freelance for the next thirty years. This led to an ever more diverse range of work including retail store layouts, display design, trade show booths, electrical household products, packaging design. Each of these required more learning of various manufacturing methods. A big change came when he was asked to provide racing photography for a large publisher in Toronto, Ontario. That soon led to writing race reports and then car reviews for major Canadian newspapers and specialty magazines which he supplied with his own photography instead of the stock shots from the manufacturers.

S tory

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P hotograPhy | J im L eggett

“Whenever someone asked me to do something I had no experience with, I would never say no, I can’t do that,” said Leggett. “I would just nod and then figure out how to get it done.”

The convoluted route of which almost no planning was done beforehand, we covered over seven thousand miles in seven weeks in 2013 and almost the same distance in 2014.

The automotive writing and photography took over much of his time and once again he chose to take the less direct path by buying a 1950 Chevy and driving it twice across the continent in search of stories and images from the road. Those two road trips have had a huge influence on his life.

“It was on these two trips that I became infatuated with land speed racing on the salt flats of Bonneville,” recalled Leggett. “As a racing journalist, it is a source of the purest motorsport stories. Man and machine against the clock, pure speed on the salt. You run what you build, there are no corporate teams, no prize money and only one trophy.”

“I bought Alice, a ’50 Chevy, and drove her across the US… twice,” laughed 59-year old. “The car was bone stock, unrestored. I wanted to see if we could make it to Los Angeles and back… and survive to tell the tale.

“As a visual artist and photographer, it is like no other place I have seen. The light is pure magic to the eye.”

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Perspective

Aerodynamics In The Classic Jag Look P u t t i n g W ay n e B u r g e s s t h r o u g h h i s P a c e s

S tory | S abrina G iacomini

The Jaguar I-PACE has been turning heads since its introduction to the market earlier this year. The fullyelectric vehicle marks a new direction for the British automobile manufacturer and its design has come with its share of challenges. We had the chance to sit down with Jaguar Production Studio Director & SVO Projects Wayne Burgess to discuss just how challenging—and fun—coming up with their very first electric vehicle was.

What single detail was the most challenging in designing your very first electric vehicle? The biggest challenge, but it was also the biggest design opportunity, was achieving the aero(dynamic) targets for the car because we had to do things very differently. A lot of the aesthetic devices that we normally incorporate in Jaguars make them who they are- sexy blunt shapes. You know, you look down on an F-TYPE and it has hips and a waist and it has a lovely tapered tail that’s inspired by the series 1 E-Type which is all naturally very beautiful, but unfortunately not great from an aero point of view. It needs to be aerodynamically efficient so we’ve got to find a way of designing the car so it looks like a Jaguar that is very sheer-sided, quite square in plan-from, and has quite sharp corners because we need it for the air and circulation.

That was the aero challenge of bringing Jaguar DNA to it and ultimately having an aesthetic that people still looked at and say “Hey! That looks like a Jaguar.” Like a really modern Jaguar, and it looks very different, but I get it. It’s a Jaguar.” So that, really, from an exterior point of view, was the main challenge. As we know, not all design ideas make it through to final production. What’s the coolest idea you had that didn’t get greenlit at the aerodynamics or engineering level? Hum. We’re quite fascinated by active aero. We love the fact that our brand identity is an animal so the notion of having cars that have animated features on them, whether it’s interior or exterior, is very appealing to the design team because we want the car to feel like it’s alive and breathing.

Those shark gill vents at the front of the car are air curtains and though they are static, I think originally we looked at those as being moveable because if you open them out, you sharpen the blunt shape of the car even more and then potentially reduce the drag even more, but it doesn’t look great all the time. If it’s a feature that moves, you can kind of sign up to that as a designer, so that was one of the things that we worked on. There seems to be a general consensus that working on the I-PACE was fun and almost liberating for the design team because you got to do something so dramatically different. What did you get to do that was different? The really big fundamental stuff, the whole architecture of the car is like nothing we’ve ever done before. So you know, you remove the engine and the transmission, and the prop shaft, and the transmission tunnel in the car and you can move the windscreen forward, you can extend the cabin, you can move the dashboard, so there’s a notion that you can have a cabin that’s two-thirds the length of the car. That was really exciting to us. It gives the car a completely unique silhouette. So it was really the big fundamental stuff, the kind of stuff that’s hidden in plain sight if you like. A big deal for us is looking at the silhouette of the car; it’s unique and that’s because it’s electric.

Has working on an electric vehicle changed your perception of car design? Hum, in some respects yes. I mean, working on an EV has been a really enjoyable process. Because I look after the SVO world as well, I have to look into the highperformance derivatives. Aerodynamics is a massive part of my life in that world as well, so I feel in the last five years I’ve learned as much about aerodynamics as I did in the first twenty years and that’s quite refreshing. I love the idea that aerodynamics can drive aesthetic solutions that you would never have drawn in the first place. They come to you as you try to figure out how to solve some aerodynamic problems. I think electric vehicles have really focused our minds on that. They’ve given us new silhouettes, new and potential opportunities. From an interior point of view, it’s actually a little tougher. As I remind people, although we’ve moved into electric propulsion, we as human beings haven’t changed so we still need the heater controls, you still need sat and nav, you still need your steering wheel. So you have to provide surfaces in the car to place those controls. But what we realize is that, ok, we’ve vacated all that space by removing the prop shaft and the transmission tunnel, so where the central console now is, we have massive dedicated storage.

Do you think that there’s anything the team has learned working on the I-PACE that might carry over to future designs? Yeah, I think some of the aerodynamics that we’ve learned on the car and also because it’s delivered quite a modern design language. I see no reason why you couldn’t take that kind of graphic treatment and have it on a gasoline engine car.

What has prompted the decision to make an electric SUV rather than a car? A couple of things. From a corporate emissions point of view, we get the most CO2 credits by having an SUV zero emissions. There was a little bit of a tactical decision about that. Also, SUVs, because they are naturally taller, lend themselves well to electric architectures because all the mechanicals move down below the floor. That naturally elevates the driver and passengers so an SUV can easily accommodate that as it is already a tall vehicle.

So you’ve got the most opportunity of still delivering the best proportions with an electrical architecture. The other thing is, at the moment, components to electrify a vehicle; the motors, the drive units, the battery packs, it’s expensive technology. I know for a fact the electric components that go into an I-PACE on its own, cost way more than it cost Ford to build a Fiesta. But if you’ve got a more premium position with a mid-size SUV like the I-PACE, you can price it within that bracket segment. It’s the optimal product, right now, for an electric vehicle.

What’s in the future of electric Jaguar? What I’ve said many times before, I think we are into the decade of transition now where we see the pendulum swinging from internal combustion cars to electric vehicles. I think more and more customers, as it becomes more clearly convenient, will own an electric vehicle. And there are incentives to do it. I think by the end of this decade, you’ll see a hugely increased volume of electric vehicles. For that reason, Jaguar and Land Rover quite rightly as an entire brand, are looking at electrification opportunities across the portfolio.

Featured Road

Meeting With The Presidents T he

driving sTory behind ( and around )

M ounT r ushMore

S tory | K elly t aylor

It is, perhaps, the largest, permanently unfinished sculpture in art history. Mount Rushmore, depicting four U.S. presidents — George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln — is also South Dakota’s most-recognized tourist attraction, drawing millions of visitors every year. Often overlooked, however, is the series of amazing drive routes and wealth of other attractions in the area, from the Needles, to Crazy Horse, to Deadwood, the Wild-West town made famous by the HBO series of the same name. An area almost twice the size of Yellowstone National Park, a driving holiday here in the Black Hills region could easily take a week just to see everything. Make sure your passengers are packing dramamine, just in case. Your tour of the area should begin at your hotel in Deadwood. It’s about an hour away from Mount Rushmore, but the drive is worth it, especially in summer when you can wind your way through the seasonal back roads.

“ Rushmore is a marvel, with the heads of each president 18.3 metres tall, perched 152 metres above the viewing area.”

The town has retained a strong wild west flavour, with some of its original hotels converted to casinos but looking every bit the kind of places you would have seen Wild Bill Hickok, Calamity Jane or Wyatt Earp. The quickest route to Mount Rushmore is via South Dakota Highway 385, but my recommendation is to take Rochford Road, which will take you on a delightfully twisty path through Rochford, Mystic, and Nahant. On the way, you can take in the Black Hills Mining Museum in Lead, ski at Deer Mountain in winter or hike the George S. Mickleson Trail in summer. Watch for seasonal road closures, however. This area is quite high in elevation, and some of the roads are open in summer only. Just 25 kilometres from Mount Rushmore, work continues on the Crazy Horse Memorial, a monument to the Oglala Lakota warrior that already dwarfs the more famous Rushmore. Completed, Crazy Horse will be 195 metres long (641 feet) and 172 metres (563 feet) high. By comparison, Rushmore’s heads are 18.3 metres tall, while the head of Crazy Horse by itself will be 27 metres (87 feet) tall. He will be riding a horse and pointing into the distance. The project began in 1948 and 70 years later remains decades away from completion. Currently, only his head has been revealed from the granite, with the rough outline of the top of his arm visible.

Standing at the base of the visitors’ centre, looking up at the scope of the work, at how much of the man and the horse is still hidden in the huge granite mountain and the amount of labour still required, is awe-inspiring. The irony of the Crazy Horse Memorial’s location, in Custer County, won’t be lost on those who know their history. Drivers will also have to check out the Needles, a collection of granite spires not far from Crazy Horse and Rushmore in Custer State Park. The roads are narrow and twisty, the scenery breathtaking, and the Needles themselves fascinating. A highlight of the Needles drive is the tunnel, a short passage carved between two spires that is barely big enough for an intercity coach to fit through.

If you’re a movie buff, just more than an hour away in Wyoming is undoubtedly the most famous formation of porphyritic phonolite in the world. Devil’s Tower National Monument, as seen in Close Encounters of the Third Kind rises 265 metres above Ponderosa pines. If you haven’t seen the movie, it’s must-see Spielberg. And, it’s shown nightly at the base of the tower during camping season. Getting to the area is not the easiest: if you have to fly, Rapid City Regional Airport welcomes regular flights from hubs in Denver, Minneapolis, Chicago, Salt Lake City, Dallas, and Newark, among others. Otherwise, driving to Deadwood is 11 hours from Winnipeg, 22 hours from Toronto or 14 hours from Calgary.

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Featured Motorcycle

80 P hotograPhy | P eter h essels

Discovered

Coming Home Jeep Wrangler in the Mountains of British ColuMBia

S tory

and

P hotograPhy | M iranda L ightStone

Life is cyclical. Seasons. Birthdays. School years. Holidays. Everything comes full circle, repeats, comes again… and again… and again. We humans are creatures of habit. We take great comfort in returning to things we know; babies thrive on routine (trust me, I know the importance of a sleep and feeding schedule like most mothers); offices succeed when meetings are made regular and scheduled weekly; and successful sports teams practice regularly.Cycles. Repetition. Returning to what we know, what we trust. When my 6-year-old told me he wanted to go away somewhere with me for summer vacation this year, my mind buzzed with ideas. Should we go down south for a week? But why? Our Montreal summer was set to be hot enough, it would be money spent for nothing. Camping? But wait; did I really want to sleep on the ground for 7 days straight? Survey says: NO. A staycation would save my single-mum bank account, but we’d likely start plotting each other’s demise about 2-3 days in, what with cabin fever and all… Cabin. Then it hit me: I’d take him home with me. While I live on the East Coast of Canada now, and have for the better part of 20 years now, it’s never been home. Some might scoff at that statement; how can somewhere you’ve lived for over two decades not be home? But then I’d wager those making that specific comment have never had to leave home. They live where they were born and raised (or at least in close vicinity to it). I was born and spent my formative starting years on the other side of the country, beautiful British Columbia (as the license plate reads).

Surrounded by larger-than-life trees, all-encompassing snow-capped mountains and wildlife galore. And I’m not talking downtown Vancouver either, no; I grew up in what used to be a sleepy little logger’s town, Squamish. Nestled halfway between Vancouver and Whistler on the Sea to Sky highway, Squamish will always be my home. The moment I set foot on the familiar streets and breath the cool crisp mountain air, standing in the shadow of The Chief with Garibaldi jutting through the clouds in the distance, I belong. I instinctively know where to go, always have, and I know it’s home. I’m extremely lucky to have family who still live in Squamish, and who also have a few family-owned cabins on a private lake (the name of which will remain anonymous as to protect the serenity of the lake itself and keep would-be tourists away from our little slice of paradise). Now, when I say cabin I really do mean cabin. There is no electricity per se (there is a large battery that powers a small generator if necessary), there’s no running water (other than in the kitchen sink, and it’s simply water pumped from the lake and should only be used when boiled), and there is no plumbing. Outhouse FTW. There is a gas stove… and stunning views of Mother Nature, and nothing else. I have the supreme fortune to have access to these cabins whenever they aren’t in use by other family members. So, I made a few calls, sent a few texts, and booked our tickets for a week away in the wild woods of British Columbia. Of course, I’d have to get from the Vancouver Airport to the cabin in the woods, which is actually a trek not just any vehicle can do. I have the supreme fortune to have access to these cabins whenever they aren’t in use by other family members.

So, I made a few calls, sent a few texts, and booked our tickets for a week away in the wild woods of British Columbia. Of course, I’d have to get from the Vancouver Airport to the cabin in the woods, which is actually a trek not just any vehicle can do. The road leading to the cabin itself is extremely steep, riddled with boulders and loose gravel, as well as mud ruts and pits. It requires a vehicle with AWD and ride height to combat the extreme terrain. I immediately knew which vehicle would transport my son and I back to my roots safely and confidently. Understanding where you’ve come from is so important when moving forward in life. History builds futures, and there are companies that fully understand, and even embrace, this notion of where they’ve been aiding them in where they’re going. This can definitely be said for Jeep. Now, truth be told, they’ve wavered a bit over the years (let’s just forget the Patriot and Compass happened, shall we), but when it comes to legendary vehicles and sticking with what they know and what they do well; the Jeep Wrangler will always come out king.

“ I’ve had a soft spot for theWrangler since I drove my first one well over a decade ago.” Over the years, I’ve experienced different generations, and what’s always struck me is this: They never really change. It remains familiar. Cyclical. I knew what I was getting into. I knew what to expect and how my time behind the wheel was going to go, and I love that about the Wrangler. Habit. Ritual.

Hopping aboard our 2018 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, the boy and I began our journey into the woods and up the mountain to our home-away-from-home for the week. We’d be at the cabin for five full days, away from the world, blissfully surrounded by nothing but wilderness and mountains, with a pristine private lake at our disposal for daily dips and swimming. “Mummy, we need to take the top and ALL the doors and windshield off!” proclaimed my enthusiastic offspring the very moment he took his seat in the back, seemingly unaware of the drizzly BC weather. That’s the thing about adventures and travel; they push you past your comfort zones, they make you do things you might not otherwise do. And so we did; removed the roof at least. The doors and windscreen were staying perfectly in place as the Sea to Sky can be quite windy and twisty – the boy might be brave enough to have limbs exposed, but not mum. Watching the wind whip through my son’s white-blonde hair, his face turned towards the sky, eyes closed, smile on his lips, arms outstretched to dance in the breeze as we drove down one of my favourite roads near Squamish, Paradise Valley Road, I couldn’t help but grin myself. Everything about that specific moment felt right, felt like home, felt familiar. Including being behind the wheel of the Wrangler. Adventures are built on risks (however calculated they may be, they’re always a bit of a gamble), and I made it a point to embark on one “adventure” a day with my boy throughout that week. From stand-up paddle boarding (first time for him, and solo too!) to deep wood explorations where we discovered countless bugs, mushrooms and flowers to getting stranded in the middle of the lake on a blow-up raft that was clearly too small for us both, but we decided to give it a go anyways; we thrived on nature, drank in the mountain air, absorbed the glorious July sunshine, and made memories I truly hope will last a lifetime for us both. That’s the real beauty of my family’s lake cabin: It’s blissfully removed from the hustle and bustle of the real world. Secluded without feeling isolated, it might only be 20 minutes outside Squamish, but it feels like you’re in an entirely different world – and that’s complete vacation bliss right there – a world you really need to want to get to in order to escape.

Tough and capable, the new Wrangler still offers everything it did in past – rugged off-road capability with a solid suspension and raised ride height – but with a decidedly modern twist. Old was suddenly meeting new. Where past generations may have seemed stuck in the wrong ways, this latest generation has moved forward just enough with a newly redesigned interior that includes a superb and easy to use 7” touchscreen with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto compatibility. There’s even a new 2.0L turbocharged 4-cylinder engine available with the Wrangler now (if you desire such a thing), however, we had the tried and true V6. The engine might be “old” but it feels new, peppier even, especially with the available 8-speed transmission (which we had). The seats are much more comfortable, and even the interior fabrics and materials have been geared up a notch. The Wrangler will never be fancy or luxurious, but it’s safe to say they’ve definitely bumped up the quality level in the new Wrangler. Despite the auto industry’s desperate need to be as modern and technologically loaded as possible (like the latest smartphone with a steering wheel), Jeep has blissfully kept things as simple as possible in the Wrangler.

Free of autopilot nannies and aides, the 2018 Wrangler gets the job done without all the bells and whistles. A few USB ports and a touchscreen are as tech-y as this Jeep gets, and it’s absolutely perfect. Even roof removal is mechanical and analog, with functional latches (that take some muscle to maneuver but somehow I managed). And yet, the Wrangler maintains a certain level of rawness. The ride is decidedly still uncomfortable and bumpy, the engine feels a bit underpowered for such a large vehicle (but then it always has), and forget aerodynamics for improved fuel efficiency, especially with beefy off-road tires like my Sahara sported. The Wrangler remains as boxy and large as it ever was. And it’s gloriously perfect because of it. Old meets new. Past meets future. Driving in the 2018 Wrangler with my boy, traversing the same stunning BC mountain roads I did as a child his exact age (only I was in the bed of a bouncy old Ford pickup); there we were, blending past with present and future. Old stories about to morph into new ones. Memories of old adventures about to become new stories of exploration and discovery. My home about to become his home away from home. Cyclical. Ritual. Habit.

“We all come full circle, eventually.”

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Your Arctic adventure starts at DestinationNunavut.ca 92

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Special Feature

RENNSport Reunion VI G e t Y o u r P o rS c h e o n

S tory

and

P hotograPhy | d an h eyman

So there we were, sat at a table in Schooners, the resident eatery at the Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa in Monterey, California. Myself and four colleagues, surrounded, not by tourists, but by a who’s who of Porsche lore who had arrived en masse from the US, Germany, and beyond to this sleepy little town. We were all here attending RENNSport Reunion VI, a gathering of all things Porsche racing (“Renn” = “racing” in German, and it’s where the “RS” in “GT2 RS” or “GT3 RS” comes from), held at the Weathertech Laguna Seca Raceway, 18 kilometres down the road in Salinas, California. Taking place every four years, it’s a chance for the storied marque to show how far it’s come since 356 #1 rolled off the line in 1948.

To my right, Norbert Singer, the engineer whose hands had touched almost every significant Porsche race car between 1970 and 1998, was chatting amicably with four friends, including driver Jürgen Barth. Directly across from me sat five-time Le Mans winner Derek Bell casually sipping tea, driving gloves on the table in front of him. Behind me? Jacky Ickx, whose accolades on the track are matched—even overshadowed—by his dedication to driver safety; he wore a unique helmet to better protect himself from flying debris and at Le Mans in 1969, decided to protest the traditional Le Mans start (whereby drivers first sprint to their cars, then push off), by strolling to his car after all the other drivers were way down pit row.

“In those days,” said Ickx, “drivers would drive entire stints (usually about three hours) with no belts on because once you’re off, you have no time to do it.” He’d go on to win that race, while one of the drivers who had participated in the traditional start would perish after being thrown from his vehicle during a crash; sure enough, he’d been in such a rush that he hadn’t the time to do up the belts. Van Lennep, Lins, Mass; the hits just kept on coming and it was right then and there that the full effect of RENNSport VI hit me: I was no longer in the real world. It was as if I’d entered a dreamscape, Inception-style, and all that existed at that moment was me, my colleagues, the drivers, and the engineers (the early-morning fog socking us in contributed to the illusion). It was almost exactly as I’d pictured it when I wrote about in these very pages last month.

So complete is RENNSport’s takeover of the area that you can spend five minutes on the town’s main drag and chances are you’ll see a classic Porsche; I did this and saw three 356s, two 911s and one Boxster in the span of about three minutes. No Cayennes or Macans, though. For the duration of our stay in Monterrey, a Porsche 918 was intermittently parked out front of our hotel. No big deal. Just a million-dollar, 1 of 918 hybrid hypercar, parked right there on the curb. Pretty sure I was woken from my slumber on the second day by a Carrera GT. For somebody who has been studying the brand since he was a boy, this was must-see-TV. “It’s the pinnacle of what a car manufacturer can do,” said Canadian racing legend Kees Nierop, who would be taking stints behind the wheel of a Porsche 934 throughout the event. “Where it came from, where it is today, (and) where it’s going.”

Laguna Seca is a world-class raceway that hosts a number of sports cars and motorcycles events. While the name does technically mean “dry lake”, you wouldn’t really know it as it’s a very hilly place. So hilly that at the famous “corkscrew”, the cars drop 5.5 storeys in just 140 metres, and end up 10 storeys down at the exit. Since so many owners drive their Porsches to the race, parking is broken down into groups; classic 356 Speedsters over here, current GT cars over there, and so on. And that’s just the parking lot.

Through the vendor area (powder blue and orange “Gulf” gear over here, silver “Martini” gear over there, Porsche parts one way, diecast models another) and over the Michelin bridge is the main nerve. You make your way slowly past the Silverstone Bar (a little love for an overseas track; not bad) and before you know it, you’re about to cross the very same strip of tarmac used by every possible Porsche race car you can think of to access the track. It’s not closed, either; there are racers passing right by, constantly, and it’s on you to avoid them as the security is surprisingly marginal.

They take to the track in seven groups, each group representing a different era of car, from the latest Cup and GT cars to the earliest 356 and 550 models. My favorite? The Group 2 “Werks” division, which features the flat-6 -8 and -12 monsters from the late 60s and early 70s; legendary cars like the Porsche 917, 908, and 904. It’s crazy; you have free access to walk through the paddock and the mind-boggling Chopard heritage display and many of those wild cars you see aren’t just showpieces; they’re here to race. This is a fullyfledged paddock with men carrying broken bumpers and

changing tire pressures, only they’re doing so on a classic Kremer 935 finished in the pink and white scheme of the Japanese Moda Goji Italiya clothing brand. It would eventually be taking to the track, as would the Wynn’ssponsored 962 you see over there, the Löwenbräu car over there, the Brumos-liveried GT3 Cup car at paddock entrance and the multicoloured Champion Porsche-sponsored 993 GT2—at the age of 12, I had a 1:18 diecast model of that one beside my bed—one aisle over. These are cars I’ve spent my life studying and now, here they were, right in front of my eyes and ready to light up the central-Californian tarmac.

When I first arrived and was greeted by a display including an as-used version of the Paris-Dakar 959, a RS Spyder racer in DHL yellow, and classic 718 RS Spyder racer, I scolded myself and my research for not revealing how huge this all was, how much of an assault on the senses. After a while, however, I realized that there is nothing I could have done—nothing at all—to prepare myself for this, and I proceeded to just enjoy the event. It wasn’t just the cars or drivers in silo, though. It was the whole experience, the feeling that you were at the centre of all that mattered in the motorsport world at that moment. As I talked more to people at the event, though, it became clearer that it was a more tangible feeling than that. Nierop again: “Being here as a driver, it is a certain pride that you’re part of that Porsche family, and I think that’s how everybody pretty much feels about it. You can’t do more of a competitive, agreeable, exciting, grandiose show than getting everybody together,” he said. “We all are proud to have driven the product, and we all have a story to tell.” Now I do, too.

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We Built This City On Rock And Roll S l o w R i d e T o M u S i c H e av e n

S tory | S abrina G iacomini P hotoGraPhy | S abrina G iacomini , S am h owitz

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Rock and Roll is a jewel of American history and a source of national pride like the Ford Mustang, the Internet and Harley-Davidsons. Created in the mid-50s, it has taken on different flavours through the decades, from Aretha Franklin’s dose of soul to Prince’s 80s’ funk, to Metallica’s metal-for-dummies sounds. Though I grew up in the 90s, I was turned on at an early age to the real classics including Creedence Clearwater Revival, AC/DC, Dire Straits, Journey, and Supertramp, only to name a few. Now, there is one place in the world where the biggest names in rock and roll from every generation cohabit under the same roof and that means travelling to Cleveland, Ohio to meet with them. Music transcends the soul and communicates emotions in ways words can’t. Every song is the bearer of something uniquely personal to anyone who hears it. Listening to “old time” Rock and Roll has the sound of nostalgia for me. We would listen to a lot of music in the car when I was a kid, both on CDs and the radio where the classic rock station was blasting the industry’s biggest hits in our ears.

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To this day, I always keep a collection of old-time songs on my phone to listen to in the car. I somehow know all the classics; they’re imprinted in my brain and whether I want it or not, I can’t help but hum the melody of late 70s and 80s songs to the surprise and sometimes dismay of the people around me. Considering my affections for rock music, you’d think that a visit to Cleveland would have become a bucket-list element a lot earlier. However, much as it makes sense now, I actually didn’t know I wanted to go to Cleveland until it hit me. My last two motorcycle road trips had me revisiting my home province of Quebec, taking a few days to travel and making a few stops along the way. This time, I don’t have a few days; I only have a weekend, so I need something short, but oh-so-sweet. I also want something south of the border, just to add another stamp on my passport. As I scour the map, the little star that indicates the location of Cleveland, Ohio starts shining brighter and brighter. The more I look at it, the more it starts making sense.

It’s located only 458 kilometers from Toronto, Ontario, where I live, which is an easy distance to conquer over a weekend. Plus, this is my chance to gaze upon musical greatness with a visit to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, the Mecca for melomaniacs. It’s settled then: I’m going to Ohio!

Contacting the people at Kawasaki Canada, I pitch my idea as best as I can, working very hard to get them as excited about the perspective of clocking 1,000 km on the Ninja 1000 as I am. I’m in luck: they like the idea and even throw in a pair of convenient sidecases to make my trip easier.

Now that I have my destination, I need a ride. The last few times I travelled by bike, I played it safe by opting for more road-trip friendly dual-sport models equipped with all the bells and whistles to aid in my comfort, but this time will be different. Why not “rock” things up a little?

I set out early on a Saturday morning with a fully packed Ninja 1000, ready for my adventure to and from Ohio; a true metaphorical hit and run to Rock and Roll City. This first hour of riding on the Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW) on the way to Buffalo, New York from Toronto, Ontario, is the dullest part of the trip.

From the first time I sat on the Kawasaki Ninja 1000 a few years ago, it has become one of my favourite rides— one I could easily see myself owning someday. It’s a smooth, exciting bike that can be as naughty as you like or as tame as you need. Considering the bike has been reworked in 2017, this is the perfect opportunity for me rekindle the flame with my favourite model.

The downside to travelling by motorcycle means there’s no music to keep me company and to build my anticipation of visiting the world’s most famous rock museum. Thankfully, once I’ve crossed the border, I get to leave the bustling highway behind and jump on Road 5 where the scenery makes up for the lack of background music.

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Road 5 makes its way along the shores of Lake Erie, running parallel to the Interstate, but with a lot more curb appeal than the I-90 concrete jungle. Just south of Buffalo, the road is a lovely stretch of smooth asphalt following the lake shore. I make a first pit stop near Athol Springs where an empty beach catches my eye. The early day is a little too cool for a dip in the lake; the beach is nearly empty. This turns out to be a very pleasant spot to take a break and snap a few pictures. By the time I reach Pennsylvania, the seemingly infinite blue surface of the lake has been replaced by the lush and dense foliage of trees as the road takes on a far more twisty personality.

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The road is lined with weeping willows and tall cypress trees, giving the area a mystical atmosphere as I carve the bends at a smooth pace. I am having a zen moment. Did you know that the states of New York and Pennsylvania have wineries? I’ve never seen a “New York” section at the wine store, so I was fascinated to see rows and rows of vines perfectly lined up, poking out of the green rolling hills. I finally reach the State of Ohio where Road 5 branches out into tertiary roads. That’s when I jump on the Interstate to tackle the last hour of my trip. The outline of Cleveland’s cityscape looks like a miniaturized NYC with only a few skyscrapers poking their heads out.

The city’s downtown area is rather small compared to other bigger city’s, which means most of everything worth seeing is also easily accessible. As I exit the highway, on my right, a striking glass pyramid stands tall. Big, loud, bright red letters lined up in front of the building spell “Long Live Rock”, starkly contrasting the delicate glass architecture that almost blends into its surroundings. It’s hard not to guess what I’m looking at. I make my way to The Westin Cleveland Downtown located on St. Clair Avenue NE where I booked a room for the night, only a few blocks away from the waterfront and, of course, the Hall of Fame. With my ten-hour-day in the saddle behind me, I decide to call it an early night to rise bright and early the following day.

I grab dinner at Sausalito on Ninth, located only a few easy steps away from my hotel. The food there is delightful and the service, an immediate mood-brightener. The restaurant offers an excellent wine selection (no New York wines here either), a delectable treat after a long day on the road. I opt for an appropriately-named Zeppelin Riesling—a sweet and refreshing German white. After a restful night of sleep, I wake up refreshed and ready to travel back home, but not before I pay my respects to all the music greats. The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame Foundation was created in April 1983 and started inducting artists in 1986. The museum, however, was only officially dedicated in 1995. Cleveland won the foundation’s favours over Memphis for the location of the Hall of Fame and architect I. M. Pei was commissioned for the building’s design.

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Today, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame features a collection of inductees’ artifacts, a library with archives, as well as temporary and permanent exhibits. Safely displayed behind windows, the collection of objects having belonged to some of the world’s biggest celebrities is overwhelming. Pinned to the walls, jackets, dresses, guitars, posters, shoes, hats and memorabilia of all genre walk us through the history of one of the most important musical movements from the last Century. There is something quietly emotional and powerful about being there and I step out feeling my love of rock music is stronger than ever.

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Before leaving Cleveland behind, I make a stop at the Voinovich Bicentennial Park located on East 9th Street Pier, outside the museum’s doors. If you time your visit correctly, you can even attend festivals in the park where a permanent concrete stage has been set up to host events. Cleveland’s waterfront is like a musical cocoon. Inspired by my visit to the Hall of Fame, I can hear all the classics loop in my head. Fortunate Son, Dream On, Sultans of Swing, Rocket Man. What would I give to crank the volume up and sing my heart out on the road back home? But I can’t really complain—who needs music when you get to hear the notes of the one-literengine tucked between your knees?

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Behind the Scenes

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My grandson, Riley, at the age of 11 is a certified car nut. Just like his grandpa. He dreams of owning a Ferrari -- a 488 Spider to be specific. Last summer, Riley met the Dream Merchant, Carlo Galasso, who says he’s more than the purveyor of highend automobiles. “I sell dreams.” Carlo is dealer principal of Calgary’s newly-opened $15 million dealership which sells Ferrari, Maserati, Alfa Romeo and Rolls-Royce vehicles. There, Riley got up close and personal with cars he never gets to see back home in Fredericton.

“ He won’t soon forget his day with the Dream Merchant and the cars of his fantasies.” Carlo has lived Riley’s dream. As a young boy, he too dreamed of owning a Ferrari. He has achieved that dream. And then some. “When I was eight, I decided that one day I would own a Ferrari.” Looking around, he says. “Oh boy, do I own a Ferrari? My dream has come true.”

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Carlo and assistant general manager Patrick Kirkwood rolled out the welcome mat, treating Riley as they would a valued member of the dealership family, including him in every staff introduction and explaining building features as they would to an adult. Riley was hugely impressed. So was I because this was not a performance, it was all done naturally and caringly. We got a complete tour of the impressive new facility which houses three showrooms. Alfa Romeo is on the ground floor while Ferrari and Maserati share showroom space on the north half of the top floor leaving the south side to Rolls Royce. Each brand has its own unique architectural style and it works well. Sunlight is abundant. Furniture is all Italian designed and Italian made. Even the Ferrari/Maserati showroom lighting is unique: Composed of squares of multiple LEDs under two layers of stretched cloth, the result is a near-daylight quality. The crowning touch is the Ferrari “configuration room” which contains every wheel choice, every steering wheel, every paint scheme, every leather choice and seat configuration. And there’s a big screen TV (with 8K resolution) that records every choice and displays it in a “finished” vehicle.

Carlo says the resolution is so sharp “you can not only see the stitching, you can see the little hairs on the stitching.” This room, and a similar but slightly less grand room for Maserati are worth a cool $1 million. The bottom floor is given over to mechanical rooms and shop space with a total of 18 service bays located below grade. It’s a study in efficient use of a small-ish footprint (as dealerships go) Riley got to sit in three exceptional vehicles during his visit. He started grinning early on and never quit for the rest of the day. His first photo was taken in a one-off 70th anniversary Ferrari which, he was told, was worth “about a million.” His grin got bigger. Despite the price, it wasn’t his favourite. That honour went to “the blue one” in the Ferrari showroom – a 488 Spider. During the tour Carlo asked Riley his school average. “They don’t give us an average,” said Riley. “They just give us a number like three or four.” “I tell you what,” said Carlo. “You figure out an average with your mom and grandpa and if you raise that average five points, when you come to visit next year, I will take you for a ride in a Ferrari.

“And if you’ve continued to improve your average, when you’re 16 I will let you drive one.” Incentive? Riley’s eyes fairly glowed. Further into the tour, he said to Riley: “I think you dropped something” and handed him a flat red box. Inside was a leather-bound presentation volume which is given each new Ferrari owner. It’s going to have a prominent place in my grandson’s bedroom – after he shows it off to his buddies back home. Usually you have to buy a Ferrari to get one of those. Then came the final touch. “How would you like to take a Rolls-Royce for lunch?” I can’t adequately describe the boy’s reaction. So, we took a Rolls to lunch at a place where I felt comfortable leaving a Ghost unattended. All too soon – after some picture taking -- we had to take the car back. Riley had Carlo and Patrick autograph the presentation box and thanked them for about the fourth time for all they had done for him. Riley was pretty quiet on the way home as he digested all that had happened during the day. Then he turned to me, saying “I never once thought I would be able to sit in those cars and even take one to lunch. It was awesome.” Sold: One big dream!

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Featured Region

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AZORES T he A rchAngel A rchipelAgo

Whenever a talk about exotic or new places to explore erupts, it always seems like the usual “Iceland’s”, “Patagonia’s” and “Thailand’s” get their mention. But everyone forgets about Portugal’s hidden Hawaii: the Azores. Precariously perched on three of Earth’s tectonic plates, the Azores form a chain of nine volcanic islands in the mid-Atlantic, all with their own hidden secrets and masterpieces.

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Basking in a subtropical climate, the Azores cut a swath in the ocean, 1,525 km off the Portuguese coast. The biggest island in the archipelago is Sao Miguel, named after Archangel Saint Michael, patron saint of mariners. The islands have recently relaxed their tourism laws which has created an influx of visitors and still ranks the highest in sustainable tourism. Only five percent of the islands are built up, leaving the beauty and miradouros for all to behold. Bring your hiking shoes as there are plenty of trails to explore; you will want to rent a car though, as it makes it easier to see all the island has to offer.

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Arriving at the Sete Cidades caldera is like dreaming while awake; its twin lakes of azure and teal lap steep walls of lush foliage. Take the car and hairpin your way up to the crest of the caldera to enjoy truly unforgettable vistas. The two other caldera lakes on Sao Miguel are worthy of attention as well. Go snorkel in Lagoa do Fogo where the blue waters conceal an array of marine life. Keep your swimsuit on and go where the hot springs are plentiful; areas around Lagoa do Furnas bubble with geothermal activity.

Venturing out into the open Atlantic might provide you with a once in a lifetime opportunity as the islands are well known pit stops for migrating turtles, dolphins, sharks, and blue whales.

Getting off Sao Miguel is easy as you can find regular flights and ferries to the other islands. The island of Flores is your stop if you’re looking for a Jurassic Park vibe, with sheer rock walls from which waterfalls emerge.

If you want to do something truly unique, the islet of Vila Franca do Campo is an ancient volcano that lies one kilometre off of Sao Miguel; the crater barely pierces the ocean’s surface, creating an open ocean lagoon protected from the Atlantic currents.

Pico Island flaunts vibrant vineyards as well as a stunning cloud-capped and climbable stratovolcano. On Terceira, you can descend 100 metres below into an extinct magma chamber; it’s the only one world you can enter without melting.

In March, the islanders gather to watch one of the most challenging and breathtaking rally races in the world, the Azores Rally. Criss-crossing through the countryside and skirting volcanic craters, this race is as difficult and dynamic as it gets.

So if you’re thinking of a new adventure, leave the Bali’s and Seychelles to the mainstreamers and hop on a flight to the land forgotten by tourists.

After a day at the races, head into town to enjoy spectacular local cuisine and nightlife, where there is always a beach bar open and drinks are poured with a heavy hand.

Swim in a caldera, watch a rally car drift around a volcano, gaze in awe at the ocean’s gentle giants, eat food cooked by the earth, and take in everything that makes the Azores an unforgettable escapade. This archangel archipelago is as unspoiled as it gets.

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Exit Lane

S tory | P eter H eSSelS

I think we can all agree that checking things off your bucket list is a feeling that could last a lifetime and usually results in some great stories that last equally as long. But what about checking something off your bucket list that you didn’t know was on there? Woodward Dream Cruise 2018 was that item for me. The atmosphere, the people, and of course the miles of fender to fender cars cruising up the historic highway. Vintage and new, exotic cars and lifted trucks; something there for everyone. With access to the Ford fleet, I was able to join the cruise in a variety of 2019 Mustang Bullitts, including a right-hand drive manual which was quite the experience in itself. But what really drew my interest was the cherry red 1950 Ford F-100 pickup. Push-button start, 4 on the floor shifter, no tilt steering wheel or seat adjustments of any kind; it was wonderful. After firing it up and being informed I was one of a select few that could actually figure it out, I pulled into traffic with goosebumps on my arms. There was something so special about driving to the sound of the engine, shifting a transmission with no sync, feeling every bump in the road and truly being connected to what I was doing. It was equal parts refreshing and freeing. That is, until 2 modern cars relying on their blind spot detectors tried to occupy the same space directly in front of me, forcing me to lock up all four wheels and engage evasive maneuvers in the middle of car show traffic. I caught up with one of the two drivers later who informed me that his blind spot indicator didn’t tell him another car was there until it was almost too late. This got me thinking. As a journalist and media producer, I love technology. In so many ways it has improved our everyday lives and made things easier. It allows us to hear news from around the world within minutes of it happening, develop products that would never have been possible just 10 or 20 years ago, it has made cars safer and more capable than ever before. But has it? Has it actually made driving safer or drivers just lazier? Has technology in cars robbed us of the joy of the journey? With the rise of accidents and the popularity of driving shows like Canada’s Worst Driver, I think there might be some substance to this idea. This isn’t a rant against autonomous vehicles, I know they’re coming and could be a great thing for us. It’s more of a realization that my bucket list just got exponentially longer with the number of driver-focused cars that I’d love to get my hands on. I’m not ready to settle for a car just because it’s new and fancy, I’m going to hold on to the art of driving for as long as I can. Enjoy the journey, folks.

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VICARIOUS 004 | December 2018 | exhausted.ca

Articles inside

Featured Region - Azores

Behind The Scenes - Riley Meets The Dream Merchant

New Roads - We Built This City On Rock And Roll

Special Feature - RennSport Reunion VI

Discovered - Coming Home

Featured Motorcycle - 2018 Yamaha XSR700

Featured Road - Meeting With The President

Perspective - Aerodynamics In The Classic Jag Look

Auto Art - Jim Leggatt

Splash and Dash - Stopping For Coffee In The 2018 BMW 640 GT

Special Feature - Classic Meets The Future

Featured Car - 2019 BMW i8

Discovered - When The Bullitt Hits The Road

Photo Essay - Woodward Dream Cruise

Turn-Key Tourist - Recommended Hotels from Around the World

Discovered - Ten Minutes To Paradise