THREAD | Spring Issue

THREAD AN ALTERNATIVE TAKE ON FASHION SPRING

Fashion Scout t Trend Forecasting t Sustainability Live London t Manchester Fashion Week t Street Style

THREAD> SPRING Welcome to the first issue of THREAD.

Have you found yourself wanting more than the glossy monthlies stuffed with over-priced items and wholly uninteresting celebrities? Do the weeklies not satisfy your hunger for reading about emerging talent and seeking out abstract fashion?

In THREAD we bring you fashion of all sorts, from shoots to unique interviews and the latest fashion collaborations. Head to p.28 for the pioneering Fyodor Golan show at London Fashion week, incorporating technology and garments in an explosion of colour. Our featured designer this issue is the sassy Hailea Crichton (p.58), a London College of Fashion graduate who is turning her hobby into a profession via ASOS Marketplace. Our ‘Street Style’ (p.88) promises to bring you the best style from the top cities in the UK. Check where our team will be heading next for your chance to be featured.

At THREAD we have been massively affected by the Rana Plaza factory disaster that struck in Bangladesh last April.

Ahead of Fashion Revolution Day on April 24, we catch up with three industry professionals to find out what companies are doing differently now and what we, as consumers, can do to help the process (p.100).

Illustration by Amy Mercer

Our ‘LIVE’ section is very important to us at THREAD. We know you are all opinionated and diverse people, so we would never want to tell you exactly what to visit and where to go with your dancing shoes on. But let us guide you through our hidden finds this month in the ‘London Edition’ (p.105).

Finally this issue we are championing the lost art of fashion illustration. Turn to p.38 to see the beautiful drawings by Amy Mercer, who is taking on fashion photography in a bid to stop doctored images and a wider problem of health and eating disorders in models. Our staff and myself have been given the illustration makeover, and not an Instagram filter in sight!

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this issue of THREAD. See you in the summer issue!

Victoria

Victoria Higham Editor-in-chief

We love to hear what you think about THREAD so please get in touch… info@threadmag.co.uk

@VictoriaTHREAD

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THREAD CONTENTS MARCH - MAY 2014

FIRST LOOK

24 Fyodor Golan

Technology meets fashion at

this unique LFW event 34 How To Do Bomber Jackets

S/ S ‘14

This seasons must-have item 40 11 Things We Love

Lilac products that need to

be in your wardrobe 54 Get The Look

Grunge up your florals this season 60 Dirty Disco Does ASOS Marketplace

Shop the vintage finds of

Hailea Crichton 62 ‘Free Yourself’ Shoot

The explosion of capitalism

by Hailea Crichton 68 #MCRFW

Access all areas pass to

graduate day 74 “The Beauty Of Nature’

Shoot exploring colourful

fashion on dull nature 82 Carrie Yu Collection

CSM graduate collection, shot

by Jack Grange 88 STREET STYLE

Explore the country’s street style

30 Louisa Jayne Heyworth

Talented print and textile designer 32 The Allure Of A Vintage Chanel

All you need to know about

vintage Chanel bags 36 Fashion Illustration vs

Fashion Photography

Tackling modelling and

industry secrets 48 Trend Match

Insider report into the trend

forecasting industry 52 Closet Confidential

Guide to charity shopping by

Melissa Johnson 58 Hailea Crichton

Exclusive interview with the

magpie of fashion designers 70 Bloggers’ View

Hannah Farrington discusses

free gifting by PRs 72 Anthony Mark Simpson

Meet the hairdresser, stylist

and photographer 80 The Man Behind The Lens

Jack Grange talks working

with Cara Delevingne 98 SEWN Exhibition

Contemporary textiles in Hartlepool 100 Sustainable Fashion

How will Fashion Revolution

Day affect you?

118 Dear THREAD

We answer your questions 119 Confessions Page

What to do when your best

mate sleeps with someone

you have?

108 The World Of Jean Paul Gaultier

Barbican Museum exhibit the

work of the fashion designer 109 The Glamour Of

Italian Fashion

Explore the history of Italian

fashion at the V&A Museum 110 Where To Eat & Drink...

London edition 112 XOYO London

We review Eats Everything’s

residency night 116 Film Review

Under The Skin starring

Scarlett Johansson 117 Address Book

All the contact details you

need from this issue 121 Competition

WIN! Tickets to Hideout

Festival, Croatia

BEAUTY 122

126

How To Do Hair Chalk S/ S ‘14 Step by step guide and product page ‘Arabic Goddess’ Shoot Beauty shoot exploring hair chalks and different cultures, by Tony Arts

THREAD AN ALTERNATIVE TAKE ON FASHION SPRING

£4

FASHION

FEATURES

THREAD.CO.UK

ISSUE 1 March - May 2014

12 Fashion Scout

Emerging talent from London

Fashion Week 16 THREADgram

Explore the Instagram of

blogger Stella Katterman 19 10 Q’s With...

Eco-vintage blogger Katie Thomas 20 Ethical Africa Collection

Exclusive preview of the

Vivienne Westwood x ASOS

handbag range 46 Drew Jarrett

‘The Young Ones’ shoot 134 Keisza

Everything you need to know

and more about Keisza

LIVE

Fashion Scout t Trend Forecasting t Sustainability Live London t Manchester Fashion Week t Street Style

Photography By Tony Arts. Model Sarah Boyd @ Tyne Tees. Fashion H&M. Makeup by Metamorphic Unique Art using Illamasqua.Turn to p.126 for full shoot.

TEAM THREAD MARCH - MAY 2014

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MAGAZINE

PHONE US 020 7534 2555

FASHION & BEAUTY Senior Fashion Editor/ Emily Lythe Fashion Features/ Melissa Johnson Beauty Editor/ Jack Grange Assistant/ Drew Jarrett

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Victoria Higham @Victoria_THREAD

FEATURES & NEWS Features Editor/ Winnie McGee Commissioning Editor/ Laura Brown News & Social Media Editor/ Anna Jay

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Chloe Watson

PHOTOGRAPHY

Picture Editor/ Jack Grange Assistant/ Jodie Simms

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ART Art Director/ Sophie Flynn Designer/ Laura Barton

COPY

Chief Sub Editor/ Jessica Foster Production Editor/ Leanne Green

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jessica Knowles Leanne Green Charlotte Seal Grace Norris

ADVERTISING DEPUTY EDITOR

Gabrielle Preugh Stacey Collier

Emily Duncan

@THREADMAG

THREAD.CO.UK

FASHION DIRECTOR Kelly Beall

facebook.com/ THREADMAG

@THREADMAG

Now in its seventeenth season Fashion Scout showcases emerging and established design talent, putting on showrooms in London, Paris and Kiev. Here are THREAD’s top designers from Spring/ Summer 2014.

HIROKO NAKAJIMA

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London-based knitwear designer, Hiroko, concentrates on graphics and bold designs in her collections, applied onto the finest cashmere. A sense of insecurity prevails through the Central St Martins graduate’s designs as they are constructed to be garments and accessories to hide behind, while remaining visually appealing.

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FIRST LOOK

GEORGE STYLER George is a Serbian-born designer, who graduated from the college of textile design, technology and management in Belgrade.

He showcases in Belgrade and London and has won many awards for his expressive knitwear. The collections “exaggerate the right of freedom to the modern man and his right to belong everywhere and to anyone.” Symbolism and historical meaning are very important to this flamboyant designer.

CARRIE-ANN STEIN Carrie thanks growing up in an industrial Lancashire town for the inspiration behind her collections. She moved to London as a lawyer, but soon took up fashion and pursued her talent of producing bold prints and adrogynous shapes. Graduating with a first class honours degree from Central St Martin’s, she is definitely one to watch!

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Stella Katterman 22 London

glittery flowery crowns from @lovingalice

121 likes

#tbt modelling for Miss Selfridge

HISTORY...

I moved to the UK from Germany at 12-years-old and I am actually a quarter German, Finnish, Czech and Russian – quite an eclectic mix and I suppose that comes through in my outfits.

HOW DID IT ALL START...

From a young age I would refuse to put on the clothes my mum picked out for me – I am still very much a perfectionist when it comes to clothes and would never wear something that did not feel right.

I started off a diary of my outfits five years ago, a sort of online fashion portfolio, and my blog has started from there.

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65 likes 24 likes

205 likes

THREAD gram Fashion blogger and illustrator Stella Katterman lets THREAD into her colourful world! @stellakatterman

SUCCESS SO FAR...

In 2011, I made it onto Grazia Magazine’s list of Top Ten bloggers. Then in mid-2012, Diglee, a prominent French digital artist, did my header and wrote about me on her website, which was a real turning point. That’s the thing with British fashion bloggers – once you’re in, you’re in. There are about fifteen to twenty of us and we all get invited to the same events and hang out in the same circles.

158 likes

#tbt when I was well hard

EDUCATION...

I studied history at the University College London. I would never consider doing a degree in fashion; it would just get me into debt for nothing. You can’t learn fashion! I’m glad I got a degree from an influential university, because it gave me an opportunity to rub shoulders with some of the people who are the future masterminds of our generation.

101 likes

98 likes

#seductive face

FUTURE...

I would like to start off as a stylist and then eventually work my way up to the position of a fashion editor of a magazine. I’ve already interned for Elle, Grazia and Asos.

FIRST LOOK

#stellaswardrobe

69 likes

“sparkly” THREAD.CO.UK

63 likes

“Taiwanese in Paris”

BLOGGER PROFILE 10 Q’s WITH...

• Katie Thomas • 20 • Central St Martins Textile student • Birmingham • Blogs at eco-vintage.com • Experience - Alexander McQueen, Lyle and Scott, Patrick Mavros and written for Offset Warehouse Fabrics Psychologists tell us that these are the questions you need to ask to truly get to know someone...

What do you value in a partner?

Honesty, ambition and the ability to compromise.

Featured in Vogue street style, Fashion Revolution Day, April 24

Who are you closest to?

My friends, my family and my boyfriend are all really fun and creative people who I love to spend time with.

What’s your earliest memory?

Being a fairy in the school nativity play.

What is your biggest fear?

My loved ones being at risk.

What are you best at?

Time management, most of the time!

What is the most expensive item in your wardrobe?

My Nike Flyknit trainers which are minimal waste as they are knitted exactly to size were £150- I wear them absolutely everywhere.

THREAD.CO.UK

Describe the last time you remember feeling really happy?

When I saw the sunshine this morning!

What is your biggest regret?

Taking so long to complete watching Game of Thrones.

What is one thing you would change about your life?

I wish there was more time to spend with my family.

What item can’t you live without?

Wild Berry Organic Clipper Tea.

turn to p.100 to find out more about Fashion Revolution Day (April 24)

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£160

£195

£125

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ETHICAL AFRICA COLLECTION Vivienne Westwood X ASOS

FIRST LOOK

Westwood’s latest venture, forgetting the weird PETA shower advert, sees her teaming up with e-commerce giant ASOS in producing an ethical range of clutches and totes labelled, ‘Ethical Africa’.

The collection is created from old roadside banners and unused leather cut offs, all pieced together by women from

struggling communities in Nairobi, Kenya.

You go Viv! The collection features on trend rucksacks in bold prints, with of course the golden orb.

So to get your hands on a piece from this exclusive collection buy straight from the Vivienne Westwood site or at ASOS. With prices starting from £58, you have no excuse to bag yourself a classic Vivienne Westwood bag whilst also doing your bit for charity.

IN STORES MARCH 1

THREAD.CO.UK

Available at: www.asos.com // www.vivienneswestwood.co.uk

Vivienne Westwood has become synonymous with championing British textiles and heritage, but it is also her work with charities that has made her a household name.

THREAD.CO.UK Want to watch TUTORIALS on your iPhone?

Want to SHOP from THREAD off your iPad?

Want live CATWALK on your computer?

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Everything you love about THREAD online. See exculsive behind the scenes video of ‘Free Yourself’ (p.62) and interviews with designers at Manchester Fashion Week (p.68).

NEXT ISSUE

Plus weekly city street style. Will you be next?

THREAD bring you the top festival guide for the summer, from raving in Belgium to film festivals in Krakow. Fashion. Life.

Interview with fashion and abstract photographer, Jodie Simms Blogger takeover for street style and where to eat, drink and party in the Newcastle ‘LIVE’ Edition Embrace the Spring/ Summer hair trend of hair jewellery Dries Van Noten S/S 2014

THREAD.CO.UK

FYODOR GOLAN

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The world’s first ‘smart skirt’ was displayed at LFW. The 80 Nokia Lumia phone’s dispayed HD patterns and graphics as it walked the Fyodor Golan show. This was only their second on schedule show, so we are very excited for what is in store next season !

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Step Into A Tropical World Of Prints With...

What tools do you use for your designs, is it all by hand or by computer?

I love to hand draw, paint and dye fabrics. I always use Photoshop and Illustrator, there is a high demand for digital prints at the moment so I mainly work just on the computer.

Louisa’s five step production process: 1. Trend research 2. Taking primary imagery, illustration or painting 3. Scanning imagery into Photoshop 4. Creating a repeat tile or placement print 5. Colour separation

F

rom her home design studio we talk inspiration, internships and future projects.

The neutral coloured attic conversion bustling with flowers, fairy lights and of course Louisa’s signature prints, reflects her caring and easy-going personality. Louisa is just beginning her career and it is clear to see the success that will keep continuing...

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When did you realize you had a talent for textile design?

I have always been creative and loved design and textiles from a very young age. I remember learning how to sew at 10-years-old and I have always loved drawing. Textiles is something that I have carried with me throughout the whole of my education, I studied it at high school, college and university. I am still learning everyday and my style is always evolving.

What do you love most about textiles?

I love how versatile you can be with it, the variety of techniques you can use is endless. I don’t have a particular style so I can design prints for anything, which I love because it keeps things exciting and I get to learn about all departments from fashion to stationery to interiors. It is my passion so I never feel like I am working when I am because I enjoy it so much.

What do you use as your main inspiration?

I mainly take my inspiration from catwalk trends, I love fashion and love seeing amazing prints on the runway so it is always fun to translate those prints into homewear. Nature also is a huge inspiration, as my favourite prints to do are floral prints.

Louisa’s home studio THREAD.CO.UK

After graduating Louisa travelled to Sydney to complete a work placement. She speaks about Australia with such enthusiasm and encourages everyone to work with an experienced designer before setting up your own business.

What did you gain from your placement in Sydney?

Do you have any tips for how to get the most out of placements?

My placement at Karolina York Print Studio in Sydney was the best thing I have done in order to enhance my career. I was there for five months and I learnt so much there, probably more than I did at my three years at university! There is nothing like gaining real industry experience where you can learn the ins and outs.

“I was able to design in the studio as well as gain sales experience visiting major fashion houses in Sydney“ I really pushed myself and within my first couple of weeks I was the first intern to ever be able to go out on the sales meetings. It was amazing to go out to multiple meetings a day and have the opportunity to meet some amazing designers along the way. I was able to design in the studio as well as gain sales experience visiting major fashion houses in Sydney.

I got on extremely well with all of the designers and now have an amazing reference to go forward with.

Katherine Feiner designs

THREAD meet 22-year-old textile print designer Louisa Jayne Heyworth, to get an insight into the makings of her bold prints and colourful designs.

What projects are you working on at the minute?

I am currently designing prints for a womenswear label in New York called Katherine Feiner. I designed for their Autumn/ Winter 2014 collection last year and they loved what I did so I have been lucky enough to design prints for their Spring/ Summer 2015 collection. The AW14 collection has just launched and it is such an amazing feeling seeing my print over eight pieces in their collection.

Louisa Jayne ‘Post-it’’collection2013

It is clear to see your career improving day by day, but where would you personally like to be in 10 years time.. location and job wise?

I love to travel and I think you can learn so much in different cities so I would love to be able to work in as many new cities as possible! I can’t ever imagine myself doing anything else other than print design so hopefully I will be working in a successful fashion house somewhere in the world!

I have noticed you have had a lot of people asking to buy your clothes, is this an avenue you want to go down?

I started to dress make as a hobby, and I have really surprised myself with what I have managed to create.

I have never learnt how to pattern cut or make a dress so I am just teaching myself. I love making dresses so hopefully it will be something I can continue to learn and develop over the next couple of years.

Louisa’s designs

Where can people buy your designs and prints?

All of my prints are on my website which are available for purchase. Or I also do commissions, so people should just get in touch with me!

Turn to p. 117 for all contact details.

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The Allure Of A Vintage Chanel THREAD chat with Vintage

Vintage Hermès, £1,865

Heirloom, a London-based company on why vintage bags are going through a revival, plus an inside quote from Karl Lagerfeld himself!

Lego clutch Chanel 2013, £5,370

V 32

Winnie Mcgee

Vintage Chanel, £1,500- £3,965

intage is fast becoming as popular as its high street frenemy, with everyone claiming their threads are ‘vintage’ to elevate their cool status. And undoubtedly when it comes to handbags it is all about the allure of a vintage Chanel, and now conveniently at a smaller price. (okay, not that much smaller).

were real or not but I just used to like it anyway, I was a collector.”

Winnie Mcgee is head buyer and founder of Vintage Heirloom, which she set up following the launch of her own label ‘Mauvette’ which supplied vintage items to stores such as Anthropologie in the US and Harvey Nichols in Saudi Arabia. Her background and training started at Northumbria University, she was a London girl desperate to get into fashion but also out of her home city, “I chose Northumbria as at the time they had the second best getting into work rate in the country.”

“Fashion is such a small world that as soon as Matches started selling them, Harvey Nichols got in touch, then Fenwicks then ASOS. If you are a luxury shop you have to have Chanel, especially vintage.”

Winnie was snapped up by a New York fashion designer, and moved out there in 1999 after graduating to work with Megan Park. “Part of my job was to go to flea markets to source vintage for inspiration, all designers do this for ideas.”

“I used to come across Chanel at the markets and buy a few pieces for myself, I did not know if they

After picking up her first authentic vintage Chanel in a Hammersmith flea market she was hooked, and her small hobby was turning into a business. Soon Matches were putting her items online and selling out instantly.

So just what is it about vintage items that are so aspirational to buyers? The old and dowdy connotations have clearly been erased, and with Chanel increasing their prices by 70% since 2008 vintage now has a more alluring price tag, plus the fact not many people will have it.

“Men have cars and Rolex’s and women have Chanel and Hermès.

They are the best quality leathers and craftsmanship and have proven to be a commodity and an investment”, Winnie told us. For bags to be placed in the vintage category they must be more than 10-years-old.

Laura Brown THREAD.CO.UK

The Vintage Heirloom team, made up of Winnie, her husband Kevin the IT specialist and Laura Brown the social media and marketing manager source their items from across the globe.

From private auctions, estate sales and still the occasional flea market.

“All the pieces I buy are well looked after, if it cost you £2000 you are going to take care of it!” They then ship on to regular customers from Bermuda to Bournemouth!

With the handbag market so saturated now, and Louis Vuitton and Michael Kors being more affordable than ever, Chanel are trying to retain their aspirational title by increasing the demand and decreasing the supply. With new season styles such as the classic lego Chanel of 2013 and perfume bottle of 2014 it is all clever marketing.

Winnie told us, “Karl says fashion needs to move forward, we can never look back.”

Marketing manager Laura understands better than anyone, “they do

for their name to be in the magazines.

If they weren’t doing these crazy things it would all be abit predictable and that is how they keep their brand alive. Chanel was launched in 1930 and is still as in demand.”

15-20

years old for a vintage bag

So what does the future hold for Vintage Heirloom? They are in talks with Fenwick’s Bond Street to launch a pop-up clothing and accessories store, and are working with Bluebird Boutique in launching several new stores around the UK.

5th

floor showroom, Charterhouse, London, is where the buying and selling happens

Plus launching their new website with a lifestyle blog featuring their wide celebrity fan base including Rihanna, Pixie Lott and Foxes singer, Louisa Rose Allen.

“It is alluring for young people to buy the fakes, but they just break, good vintage goes up in price. For a woman you should save to buy a classic 2.55 flap bag and a vintage tweed jacket before you die.” There you have it, looks like we all better get saving or better yet invest in vintage!

$45

Winnie paid for her first vintage Chanel find

it

Rihanna with a Vintage Heirloom piece, on a recent trip to London

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hours for the Vintage Heirloom pop-up in Fenwicks, Newcastle to sell out

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Bomber Jacket, Joseph, £120.

Trousers, Joseph, £88. Peplum top, ZARA, £29.99. Shoes, Alexander Wang, £220

Bomber Jacket, Joseph, £120.

Bralet, Topshop £40. PVC Skirt, Missguided, £28. Shoes, ASOS, £40

Bomber Jacket, Joseph, £120.

Vest, H&M, £12.

Jeans MOTO @ Topshop, £38.

Trainers, Converse, £30

Bomber Jacket, Joseph, £120.

Dress, ASOS, £38.

Shoes, ASOS, £40

ACCESSORISE IT

ACCESSORISE IT

TRAINERS, Nike Free 3.0, £85 CLUTCH, Love Moschino, £59 BEANIE, ASOS, £7 SUNGLASSES, Quay Iyd, £25 EAR CUFF, PL by Peter Lang, £30

BOMBER

S/S ‘14 JACKETS CHOKER, Urban Outfitters, £10

o t w Ho .. . o d

FASHIO N I LLUSTRATIO N vs

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY

Star Models Campaign

THREAD discuss the ethical benefits of using illustration over photography in fashion magazines, to prevent young people idolizing unhealthy models and being bombarded with constantly doctored images.

Fashion illustrations began in the late 18th century and pictured women, hips et al.

Soon illustrations were being put in magazines all over the world and by 1947, and the ‘new look’, Christian Dior era, women had this role model, to be ‘flower-like women, with round shoulders, full feminine busts and hand-span waists’.

But it was only the upper class at this time that would even get to look at the work of Dior, never mind wear it. As fashion illustrations have evolved through the centuries, they have become pieces of artwork with notable names such as Coco Chanel, René Gruau and Mary Quant drawing the fashion zeitgeists of the era such as the simplistic, linear silhouettes of the 20s and the mini-skirt in the 60s.

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Illustation by Amy Mercer Fashion by Moschino

I

n the UK 20 years ago the average model weighed 8% less than the average woman, but today it is a huge, 23% less according to The National Eating Disorders Association. In an era where fast food and obesity are never far from our conversations, it is shocking to see the abuse young models are putting themselves through for the

sake of the media and fashion houses that are allowing them to represent their brands.

Lena Dunham on Vogue

THREAD.CO.UK

In a recent anorexia campaign by Star Models, a Brazilian modelling agency, they featured exactly how models would look in fashion illustrations; the results you can see are disturbing. With skeletal frames and gangly limbs these disproportionate fashion illustrations are damaging to the fragile mindset of some women.

Last May, Kristie Clements was sacked as Editor-In-Chief of Australian Vogue and revealed a tell-all book about being ‘Paris thin’ and models eating tissue to fill

themselves up. The Vogue Factor is just another example of Clements work with the ‘Health Initiative’, a programme designed to ensure that fashion models used by Vogue are well cared for and educated.

If magazines featured purely real life illustrations, of beautiful clothes on equally beautiful real women it would be such an enjoyable visual experience.

After all fashion is about celebrating the clothes and talent we have, we want to be divulged in the rich fabrics and transported to a place where we can all wear the clothes and be at our peak of confidence, regardless of our weight or height. So fashion imagery is necessary to consumers, and it will inevitably be idolised but to place it on real life, proportionate women would make for a completely different experience.

Illustation by Amy Mercer Fashion by Christopher Kane

As children, teenagers and young adults we are presumed as being naïve, and easily influenced. But when you are battling raging hormones and self esteem issues why would seeing images of beautiful women, with slim figures in designer clothing not make us reflective of our own body image? In a recent article by Imran Amed, in the Business of Fashion, he asks: “Is idealised fashion imagery a necessary part of communicating with consumers, or should more brands be taking and communicating a more realistic body image?”

Today photos are doctored and edited to the point of creating a new photo, so whether we are looking at real-life imagery or illustration, it is all becoming a sort of escapism. Recently, Lena Dunham featured on the cover of US Vogue to the horror of many critics, simply because of her weight. The photos taken by Annie Leibovitz, feature the actress and director of hit sitcom ‘Girls’, but it is just her face that appears on the cover. Lena was heavily criticised for allowing the editing to happen, she writes and represents a show that depicts the trials and tribulations ‘real’ girls go through each day, one major topic being body image. Lena explains that Vogue is a place for people to escape and dream of a world filled with designer clothing, but should she be encouraging people to dream of flawless skin, thinner hips and taller figures?

Unfortunately today, fashion illustrations are only seen as a quirky alternative to photographs and rarely used. For fashion

illustrator, Amy Mercer, based in Newcastle she believes fashion illustrations can still illustrate the trends of the season, and if they featured in magazines as opposed to photographs it would create a more artistic feel rather than a bombardment of perfect models.

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Lilac Things

We LOVE...

ZAC POSEN

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Lilac was seen on the catwalks from London to Milan, so this season infiltrate the hue into your wardrobe in any way you can and make it bold and bright. Team it with dark leather to take your outfit from pretty pastels to grungey pastels or accessorize with a statement lip or retro bag.

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PRABAL GURUNG

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Spring/ Summer‘14 Trends

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1. SKIRT, Marcus Lupfer, £225. 2. DESERT BOOTS, Clarks, £85.

3. WATCH, Olivia Burton, £72. 4. CROP TOP, Kiss The Sky, £22.

5. JACKET, Pippa Lynn, £85. 6. SUNGLASSES, Ray-Ban, £130

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BURBERRY

10 5 RAG & BONE 7. HEADPHONES, Urbanears, £39. 8. JUMPER, Pretty Little Thing, £15. 9. LEGGINGS, American Apparel, £36. 10. DUNGAREES, Urban Outfitters, £38. 11. BAG, Head, £29.99

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THREAD.CO.UK

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6

HOLLY FULTON

“The Young

Ones”

BY DREW JARRETT photographer A photographer scouted on Instagram, Drew Jarrett has carried on the misty hues and delicate finishes throughout his work. The UK-born artist, now living in New York, has been taking photos for over 15 years, describing his work as ‘rich’ and ‘painterly’. The jewels and accessories in this shoot hide the desperation and naivety of the model.

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Title: The Young Ones Models: Dree Hemingway, Doutzen Kroes, and Olga Timokhina Photography: Drew Jarrett Styling: Victoria Young Hair: Cecilia Romero Make-up: Osvaldo Salvatierra

SEASONAL COLOUR CHARTS

HOW TRENDS FASHION YOUR LIFE S/S 2014

All year round they attend trade shows in Milan, Paris, London and New York. “The exhibitions are the size of football pitches, so we put our trainers on and traipse around picking up press packs and taking photographs. It’s much less glamorous than the fashion shows!

In Milan you see the luxury designers, ‘New Designers’ an exhibition in London is a must but it is Scandinavia and Stockholm that are incredibly influential.

Design moves much slower but they are really classic and use really interesting designs, 2015/16 will be a big year for design there.”

“ANNIVERSARY” -TREND DRIVER-

SHOES, New Look, £24.99 COAT, ASOS, £110 JUMPER, Missguided, £14.99 BRACELET, Kim & Zozi, £50 EYESHADOW, Mac , copper sparkle, £15

So how do you translate information on what paving stones people are putting down this summer into the clothes on our backs? “Our ‘trend drivers’ each season are the starting block then we take ideas from design shows.”

And how much does fashion inspire their choices? “We use fashion imagery through the book, and street style is a big influence on us.

If people are starting to wear a lot of yellow, why are they starting to wear a lot of yellow? If we see a lot of vintage the key is why is that era appealing to designers and customers, what emotions are going on behind that? We also take reference from certain collections by designers such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton.” >>>

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Unlike London-based global fashion trend forecaster, WGSN, the Trend Bible pride themselves on a bespoke client service. “WGSN have conquered the fashion market”, Naomi, senior trend analyst, tells us. “They have scouts all overthe world uploading street style and trends that are emerging.”

‘New Designers’ is an exhibition where you are sure to find the next big thing, as all graduates and upcoming designers show their textiles, furniture, products and surface design there.

“It’s a good indicator on what is going to be happening as students have a lot more freedom, ideas and a pure expression of what they want to do as they are not restricted by commerciality”, Naomi said.

JEREMY SCOTT

After launching in 2007 with just a team of two people, they have expanded to a team of five all with textile, art and anthropology skills. Trend forecasting for those who do not know is big business, a multi-million pound global business to be precise. The talented people draw on fashion, culture, family life,

The team work 18-months in advance and compile all of this intormation into two seasonal books featuring patterns, shapes, textures, colours and ‘trend drivers’ that we should be following that year. The Trend Bible supply their books to Mercedes Benz, Disney and US Avon just to name a few.

ANKLET, Topshop, £12.50 SHORTS, House of Holland, £200 SUNGLASSES, Ray ban, £140 NAILS, Sally Hansen, £12 BIKINI, Topshop, £16

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films and even down to research on what colour front door people are choosing that year!

PREEN

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hether it’s decorating your home or deciding what new styles to follow that season, trends matter. But who decides the trends that we all succumb to and follow all year long, and what inspires their choices?

We chat with Naomi Shedden at Newcastle-based trend forecasters, Trend Bible, to find out how they supply trends to businesses in the UK, South Africa and as far as Japan.

-TREND DRIVER-

Think fashion and culture are poles apart? Not according to the experts at Trend Bible.

“REVOLUTION”

TREND MATCH

HOME TRENDS EDITOR ANRI HAMILTON

And withTrend Bible being nominated for the North East creative business of the year, trend forecasting, and the Trend Bible personally are an industry we all need to clearly show more appreciation for.

“PHOSPERESCENCE” -TREND DRIVER-

CLUTCH, Lulu Guiness, £245 TOP, Ann-Sofie, £110 SHIRT, Uniqlo, £19.90 NAIL VARNISH, Illamasqua, £14.50

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Looking to the future the Trend Bible plan to expand into South America and the Middle East. “We need to explore these places more socially and culturally. It’s going to be an exciting year.”

DEREK LAM

From speaking to Naomi we got a real feel for the talent needed to be a trend forecaster, a curious, analytical and creative brain all rolled into one. To trend forecast goes so much deeper than thinking up colour palettes for that season. “You have to be sure you are saying something accurate and understand the emotions behind behaviours and understand the feelings people have,” Naomi said.

VICTORIA BECKHAM

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

TREND BIBLE OFFICES

Naomi Shedden, 24 Senior Trend Analyst Degree: Textile Design, Heriot-Watt University, Edinburgh “This course covered everything from weaving and knitting to art history and marketing. I thankfully had great parents and a good art teacher who gave me some amazing career advice.”

Experience:

House & Garden magazine intern (Australia) Wallpaper design company intern (Australia) Unpaid work with stylists in London which helped to build my portfolio Intern with Global Colour Research (London) ELLE decoration intern for 9 months Began working at the Trend Bible one year after graduating THREAD.CO.UK

MELISSA’S > Charity Shop Guide

CLOSET confidential For 21-year-old Melissa Johnshon charity shoppping has become so much more than a hobby. The Sunderland born student invites us into her life of stained armpits, 1950s sizing and the junkie-like rush she gets from vintage shopping.

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Dress The Part!

Reading this some may think this means donning your best constricting corset, twelve buttoned vintage dress, girdle and a confidence boosting amount of red lipstick. This is not the case. No one will judge you for “not looking the part” whilst vintage shopping. When vintage shopping be prepared by wearing something easy and comfortable to slip in and out of during fittings and although the temptation for Rita Hayworth-esqe bombshell red lips is never easy to ignore, it appears a lot less bon-chic after accidently smearing red lipstick on a 1940s white lace gown you’ve tried on.

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My charity shop experiences from around the ages of fourteen to eighteen were filled with anxious, lonesome, pre-shopping cream scones and awkward shuffles down desolate 1970s deco lanes. All carefully timed of course in case I was caught, donated tweed skirt handed, by any breathing being capable of judgement. Luckily, I am penning this now from a substantially more positive juncture in life.

I believe shopping in charity shops has shaken off its previously sombre shackles, and school children taunts of “your mum works in Barnardos” have become more universally accepted as an ever-present mode of consumption. Academics often comment that perhaps identity is driven by culture and consumption, and in large parts I agree this to be true.

The unexplainable butterflies that encompass your stomach whilst rapidly rummaging in charity shops, vintage shops and vintage fairs holds such an emotive gravitas in my mind. Sometimes it’s the only thing that can lure me from early morning bedroom slumber, however shallow it may sound.

A day of drowning in 50s sweetheart necked cocktail dresses, gold brooches shaped like petunias, wartime skirt suits and fur stoles is a completely different experience to high street. However, anyone with a curious scent for the past should dip their petite hand into it at least once, it might even change you.

Always Check The Armpits On Garments!

Sweat marks are a major problem when it comes to damage on vintage clothing. I’ve come across some astoundingly beautiful vintage dresses with high price tags with a saddening yellow tint under the arms from past times before deodorant. It can also make the material under the arms more likely to succumb to tears and makes patterns fade. But don’t let that put you off, all garments will have been dry cleaned and this is purely just a symptom of buying vintage sometimes but make sure you aren’t paying over the odds for a damaged garment.

y brow was beginning to sweat like a gazelle in the sun as I choked back a gulp of Diet Coke to ease my panic-stricken self.

Sixteen earth years old and I am positively hyperventilating after being asked by an acquaintance as to where I purchased my skirt. I let out a small wheeze, which was followed by a mouse-like incorrect utterance of “Topshop”.

Know your measurements and try everything on!

I always take a laminate piece of paper in my purse that notes my bust, waist and hip measurements. Vintage clothes sizing can be difficult to grasp, namely down to either a lack of standardised sizing in the past, or a change in sizing and density in fabric. Due to this, I tend to ignore sizing. In 80s clothing I’m a UK 8/10, 60s/70s I’m a 12, sometimes a 14 and in 50s I’m sometimes a 12, often a 14 and sometimes even a 16 or 18. Most vintage garments should have the bust, waist and hip measurements shown in the label but if in doubt, always try it on!

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Know Your Environment!

When going vintage shopping, take a quick recce of your environment. Is it a reasonably priced vintage shop but with smaller and underwhelming stock or a higher end shop that houses garments that are seen as more of an investment? Is it a run of the mill high street charity shop with local donated garments at small prices or a specialist charity shop with a section bought by a seller with a better range but higher prices? It could even be a vintage reproduction shop that sells cut Levi jeans to make “on-trend” denim shorts but charge four times the price. Know when you are really getting a bargain worthwhile and when you are being ripped off. Just because it’s old doesn’t necessarily make it good. It’s also a good idea to shop whilst travelling. Charity shops in wealthier areas may have some expensive hidden gems, perhaps more expensive than regular charity shops but still unbelievably cheap.

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Research, Know Your Style And Enjoy It!

Try not to dive in clueless as it could feel overwhelming. Although, if you’re not sure what era you most enjoy, take a risk and try items you love without worry. Read books, watch films and search online for past styles and icons to find outfits you might want to attempt to replicate. But most of all, enjoy it.

Shopping shouldn’t be a chore so breathe it in, buy what you love and what makes you feel good, not just what’s on trend.

THREAD.CO.UK

Get the look...

BAG, Eastpak, £35

DRESS, Vintage O&O, £48

SHIRT, Antipodium, £120 SWEAT PANTS, Pins & Needles, £25

CROP TOP, £12, SKIRT, £16, Forever 21

TANK TOP, Zara, £19.99

SWEATER, Love Moschine, £139

SCRUNCHIES, Urban Outfitters, £6 BAG, ASOS, £15

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BOOTS, Shelly’s London, £60

HAILEA CRICHTON: THE MAGPIE OF FASHION DESIGNERS

THREAD talk with the ambitious, Lancashire-born fashion designer who sells customised finds on her ASOS Marketplace store, ‘Dirty Disco Vintage’. Plus life at LCF and walking the same halls as her idols Alexander McQueen and Vivenne Westwood.

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n explosion of print spills over Hailea Crichton’s clothes when we meet in her central Manchester flat come design studio. Her porcelain white skin, retro black curls and perfectly painted red pout welcome me at the door, “sorry it’s such a mess!”

Mess? It looks like the aftermath of a Primark 90% discount sale, but what was I to expect? This is a fashion designer that loves anything and everything that sparkles and glitters, and who is running her own ASOS Marketplace store out of this two bed-roomed flat she shares with her boyfriend.

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With clothes filling every corner, rails lining the hallway and a drum-kit in the bath (her boyfriend’s fault) we took a seat in the living room, overlooking the emerging Manchester skyline. So just how did Hailea get into fashion? “I have always been interested in fashion, I used to go on weekend sewing courses and make things on my grandma’s old Singer sewing machine. But it was always a backup plan as I wanted to be an architect!” After realising that design really was her calling and not just something to “pass the time” as she initially thought, she was encouraged by a college tutor to apply for the textiles and fashion course at the prestigious London College of Fashion.

“I used to wear tinsel skirts and a pink wig, but I have toned it down since moving back from London!”

“I had to produce an A1 portfolio and attend an interview at the London campus. It really depends on if they like you in the interview, someone said they like my shoes so I thought oh that is a good sign!” The 23-year-old of course got a place, and moved to Hackney. “It took a long time to settle in, it’s lonely even though there are so many people and I did feel like a loser at first!” But all it took was six months to adapt to London life and manoeuvre away from her classmates that used to “diva” about the studios. London let her play on her eccentric character and colourful personality. “I used to wear tinsel skirts and a pink wig, but I have toned it down since moving back from London!”

The course at LCF runs in tandem with the fashion courses at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London and Wimbledon, but the competition was most fierce between

her classmates on the womenswear course. In the final year you design a conceptual collection, make it and present it. “’Free Yourself’ was the idea behind my collection, it is a commentary on how much capitalism has exploded and how quickly things change. It is a five piece collection, the shirts represent men’s suits and the rest is just because I like sparkly things!” (Turn to page 62 for the ‘Free Yourself’ shoot) In the midst of her final year Hailea interned at Meadham Kirchhoff. “They were my idols and I loved everything about Fashion East. But they expected me to quit my job and not go to lectures so I had to leave.” Yet another case of unregulated internships, and by people that are endorsed by the likes of Lulu Kennedy and Topshpop, this is very disappointing to see.

Walking the same halls as fashion legends Stella McCartney and Jean Paul Gaultier would be daunting for some, but Hailea took it in her stride. “Vivienne Westwood would often come into the library to plan a new collection, it holds one of the biggest fashion literature collections in the world.”

“There really is no better place to do fashion design than London, the contacts and resources you have are invaluable.”

After showing her final collection to a panel which included the editor of iD magazine, Hailea had got a taste of what being her own boss felt like, and decided to move back up North where rent and living costs were cheaper to pursue her self-made business ‘Dirty Disco Vintage’. “If you want to make it in fashion design you have to sacrifice everything. I have had to give up a lot of things and work until 4am.” Dirty Disco runs on ASOS marketplace which gets 1 million people viewing a day, and has 750 sellers which you can be cut from at any time if you are not performing. “ASOS really help you out and want you to succeed, it is a much more fashion focussed customer than on my previous eBay shop.”

So what does the future hold for this sassy babe? “I plan to make Dirty Disco into a mid-level independent label, then hopefully this time next year start working on my own collection.” Her unique style of OTT embellishment and a mix of colour palettes that only appear in your most elaborate dreams, are a breath of fresh air in the fashion world. “The dream would be to have a business with a team of friends like Nasty Gal, she started by selling on eBay you know…!”

THREAD.CO.UK

80s floral printed midi skirt, £20

80s art print skirt, £22

Whoever said vintage was old and dowdy clearly never saw Hailea’s eclectic finds. From charity shops nestled in her Lancashire hometown to car boot sales in affluent Wimbledon suburbs. “I’ve picked up 60s vintage clothing that still has the tags in it!” Hailea told THREAD magazine. Shop straight from ASOS marketplace and check out her tutorials and musings at dirtydisco.blogspot.co.uk

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enter THREAD14 at checkout, for 10% discount!

90s black lurex maxi dress, £26

90s oversized denim jacket, £34

80s black and art print body, £18

90s crochet top with irridescent sequins, £24

FREE YOURSELF

Model: Charity M’Cherish Photographer: Lee Morants, Two Tadpoles Photography Fashion: Hailea Crichton Assistant: Victoria Higham

Collection by Hailea Crichton

Manchester Fashion Week celebrated its first day this year

at the delectable St Peter’s Halle in Ancoats.

After previous attempts by numerous PR companies and organisations to put on a successful event for the city to be proud of, it was finally time we celebrated the talent on offer in the North-West city. #MCRFW ran over three days, April 18 – April 21, and celebrated emerging designers, independent and established retailers. Plus having pop-up boutiques running throughout the day creating a chic market atmosphere.

THREAD take you on an access all areas trip for the first day of the creative and unique event…

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AAA ay D uate d a r shion 10AM G a F r heste c n a We arrived early morning to glorious sunshine in M Week

Manchester. Anyone familiar to the climes here will know Mancunian’s don’t go ANYWHERE without an umbrella, so the sun had clearly decided to be on our side! The morning was spent steaming and organizing the graduate collections into model order, who were all provided by PHA models. The graduates were Manchester Metropolitan University students, studying fashion and textiles.

1PM After lunch we headed out into the streets of Manchester to mingle with the jolly people on what was turning out to be a scorcher of a Bank Holiday! Market Street was bustling as always with the fashion savvy people of Manchester and as we spoke to people, introducing what MCRFW was and where the event was, we got a real feel for the passion for fashion in Manchester.

5PM

As the bloggers and fashionistas of Manchester began to arrive, taking their seats and diving into their goodie bags filed with eyelure products, and vouchers, the models were finishing up in hair and makeup. Supplied by Redken and Gerard Hieu based in the Northern Quarter, Manchester.

The hair was a straight, slick appearance with a futuristic black leather band running down the parting. Finally the makeup was a heavy finish with smokey eyes and a dark lip.

Lunar Rising

Katie Ho

Lucy Cowan

Emily Shaw

Emily Shaw

6PM There were 11 graduates showing their abstract collections, all with such different and unique ideas. Caiti Betterton had exaggerated silhouettes and earth like hues, similar to the work of Lunar Rising and her detailed frayed work in maxi and midi dresses. Katie Ho took inspiration from the Agent Provocateur line making intricately strung lingerie, with perspex glass slotted in between. Lucy Cowan adopted a country girl theme for her collection using thick tweeds, long sleeve jackets and a sturdy white sandal worn with a sock. The finale came with Emily Shaw, a collection of sorts. From disco knitted dresses to eccentric fur costumes and jumpsuits. Avoiding the obvious chicken connotations it was a magnificently structured collection worn with glittered wedges to counterbalance the craziness of the clothes.

7PM

The crowd and bloggers alike were in awe of the show presented by Manchester socialite and TV presenter J Sky Chat. Once we had packed up from day one it was time to head to the Milton Club for the official after party to celebrate the Easter Bank Holiday weekend, the only way Mancunian’s know how... Into the early hours!

3PM

We headed back to the converted church to put the final preparations in for the evening show.

5 Fashion, an independent men’s and women’s apparel label, were the main sponsors for the show and provided a pretty delectable goodie bag for the crowd and some fabulous T-shirts for the staff.

Caiti Betterton

Check out more exclusive backstage pictures on the THREAD Instagram, and head to thread.co.uk for videos and exclusive interviews from the rest of the weekend. @THREADMAG THREAD.CO.UK

Bloggers’ View: ‘Bloggers’ is a term that makes Anna Wintour shudder, and has changed the fashion world considerably. From Bryan Boy to your average blogger on their home PC, EVERYONE is benefitting from free gifts and event invites all thanks to the power of the internet. THREAD talk to Hannah Farrington about the success of her blog hannahlouisef.com.

- Law student turned blogger, Hannah Farrington, discusses the good, the bad and the ugly of free gifting by PRs Are your friends always asking for style advice, due to how successful your blog is?

Some do yes, although I think (or hope) this is more because they value my opinion rather than anything to do with my blog. Strangers ask me for style advice on an almost daily basis though, via my Tumblr (hannahlouisef.tumblr.com).

Do you think your law degree has in any way influenced your fashion style or decisions?

No, I don’t think so. But it has helped me in my writing and understanding the advertising rules.

When did you first get into blogging?

I set up my blog around 2 and a half years ago, but I had been posting on Tumblr and Lookbook.nu for 2-3 years prior to that.

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Do you buy clothes with an outfit in mind or tend to go for clothes that could slot into a number of outfits?

I’m very bad at outfit buying. I buy things because I like them in an isolated capacity, then think about what I actually have to wear with them later. Sometimes this works out great, other times I end up with things in my wardrobe for months and months before they get worn!

What has been the biggest achievement for your blog?

I think that my blog in itself is an achievement! More specifically, being featured in a national newspaper, and having the opportunity to work with international brands like ghd, Motel and Missguided have been fantastic.

In 2013 the Advertising Standards Authority created strict new guidelines for bloggers and marketers to follow, to prevent false paid-for advertisements appearing.

Hannah’s Blogger Bookmarks: alicepoint.com arabellag.com charissarae.com connectedtofashion.creatorsofdesire.com indiaroseblog.blogspot.co.uk blog.kastorandpollux.com waiste.blogspot.co.uk whatsnewpussycatt.blogspot.co.uk

How do you keep an open mind about clothes, when you receive so many freebies from PRs? Do you think this is a problem in the blogging world?

No I don’t think it’s a problem at all, I choose 99% of the things I am sent, and if I have been sent something which I haven’t chosen and which I wouldn’t wear, then I tell the brand that I won’t be able to blog about it and send it back to them. If anything I think that receiving freebies has actually opened my mind rather than closed it, because I will choose things that I might not otherwise have bought and the variety of clothes I have is much wider since I started receiving more samples.

All of the prices are how much Hannah paid for each outfit herself, with the majority of her items gifted by PRs. If you are a blogger and are unsure about what you can and cannot advertise, check out the guidelines at asa.org.uk or contact THREAD with any questions on info@threadmag.co.uk

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Where do you see yourself in 10 years time...

I really have no idea! I’m currently a law student, and at the moment I have the intention of eventually qualifying as a solicitor so my 10 year plan is loosely based around that. I don’t like to plan too meticulously, or too far into the future – 10 years is a very long time at this point in my life!

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A Man Of All Talents

After watching the meticulous way he works, the advanced stylist title was obviously a well-earned accolade. During the shoot he transformed the model from an Arabic princess into a deep-sea mythical creature, with only a spraying of purple hair dye and a twist of the hair.

The creative elements which are always the starting blocks of his creations, are clearly inspired by his travelling and vivid imagination. “I begin each look with a moodboard of poses, colours and ideas, and take this to the shoot with me.” But the looks could not simply be called hairstyles as each look has a theme, a focus and a story.

ANTHONY MARK SIMPSON

Tony Arts - creative pseudonym In 2012 he was ranked 3rd in the national GHD showcase, he tells me this was “disappointing” as for this perfectionist the sky is the limit.

Words by Victoria Higham Photography by Chloe Watson

THREAD watch and observe the hairdresser and stylist, Anthony Mark Simpson, in an exclusive behind the scenes interview with this talented professional.

In the modest Mayfield studios, hidden down a backstreet in Newcastle, is the modest Anthony Simpson. I say modest as this 26-year-old hairdresser, turned stylist, turned photographer has no idea of the talent he possesses.

During our chat Anthony remains coy and incredibly easy to chat to. He first began doing web design at Newcastle University, and it is here he developed his Tony Arts pseudonym as a creative outlet. But he soon realised that hairdressing was his calling and studied at Newcastle college for a year, before going on to apprentice at top salon SAKS. He was soon promoted to advanced stylist and

stayed with the company for 18-months.

Anthony then moved to Perth, Australia, following his internship to work for popular salon chain Volona & Associates. But after six months, he soon realised this was not for him as he missed his family and friends too much.

Once back in the UK Anthony began freelance and session work, and it is here his individuality and flair shone through as at the same time he began styling and shooting his own photographs. He understands the difficulty of breaking into this creative profession and knew that by adding more skills to his repertoire would make him more employable.

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As we move on to talking about fashion, models and inspiration it is here Anthony’s eyes really light up. He avidly watches the fashion shows each year looking at not only the beauty trends but the patterns, fabric and colours he could adapt into his work. But inspiration also comes from different eras and always leans on the more avant-garde styles.

With Coco Rocha being his favourite model and Kate Moss being his dream model to style and photograph, it is clear to see the aspirations this Newcastle-based artist has.

Being a bar manager in popular Newcastle Bar, Floritas, simply funds his career and passes the time in between shoots. The fact that he has to have a job on the side of his career reiterates the point that emerging and new talent needs more support. Magazines, websites and companies should begin to use new names and their work, rather than sticking to the same people.

Go to p.126 to see the full beauty shoot!

THREAD.CO.UK

Five Tips For Becoming Freelance 1.

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Networking Have the right tools Know the industry inside out Gain experienced internships Have a professional website, blog and social media sites

The Beauty Of

NATURE

Stand out from the dull background of life and add bold colours, powerful prints and furs to your wardrobe.

Photography Anthony Simpson Fashion & Hair Tony Arts Model Jade Turnbull Assistant Victoria Higham

DRESS, Mango, ÂŁ98

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COAT, Miss Selfridge, £120

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KIMONO, Fashion Bible, £32 BAG, Atmosphere, £8

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or anyone wanting to pursue a career in the creative industry whether that be fashion, photography or graphics, we all know the struggles to be seen in such a vast, amazing pool of talent.

Where were you brought up and what sort of opportunities were you given at school?

I was brought up in Lincoln. My school offered a photography A Level, and a nearby college had a photography BTEC. At the last minute I decided to do the A Level. I had a tutor who was a great guy, but the tutoring and facilities were non-existent and I learnt nothing other than what I taught myself.

“I got into photography after getting a video camera for Christmas when I was around 14” What did you study at University?

Luckily a previous student from my college had gone on to study photography at Blackpool, so my tutor advised me to go there.

Otherwise I would have had no idea where to go. The career advice is so poor for young people today.

The Man Behind The Lens

When did your passion for photography first start to develop?

I got into photography after getting a video camera for Christmas when I was around 14 or 15, and then moved onto stills.

It was when YouTube had just launched, and tutorials were just

“It sounds very cliché, but the freedom and creativity is what

I love specifically about fashion photography” THREAD interview 22-year-old photographer Jack Grange, to talk about the struggles of pursuing a career in photography but how his grit and determination have made his freelance business a success.

Cara Delevingne, Peter Pilotto S/ S 2013

THREAD.CO.UK

starting to pop-up for lighting and Photoshop techniques, so I spent a lot of my own time teaching myself.

What is it you enjoy about photography?

It sounds very cliché, but the freedom and creativity is what I love specifically about fashion photography. I don’t have a huge passion for clothes, I try to treat them as a secondary and hand that over to a stylist to fit around the shoot.

industry and gain expert tips.

But for now I just try to enjoy my work, make it as good as possible, and see where it takes me.

You shot Cara Delevingne at the Peter Pilotto S/ S ‘13 show, how was that experience?

I managed to get into the Topshop showspace by blagging a photographers pass, and just could not believe the shots I managed to get. That will always be a special show.

LFW Street Style Piture

You primarily do fashion shoots, are there any in particular you are most fond of shooting?

At university I much preferred shooting outside, as I wanted to include some kind of context and situation to my images, and I found studio work against a blank backdrop dull. I now realise how hard it is logistically to produce a controlled location shoot on a small budget to a high standard.

Do you see yourself continuing freelance or would you like to work for a company?

I currently work as a studio assistant alongside producing my own work. Id like to be a full time assistant for one photographer for a while to learn more about the workflow required in the

Who would be your dream model to work with, dead or alive?

I worked on a shoot with Eliza Cummings recently and she was probably the best model I’ve worked with, she had such charisma and energy that she transformed the whole shoot into something completely different. I’d love to work with her again.

Eliza Cummings

Turn to p.82, for a Central St Martin’s collection shot by Jack Grange

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Collection by Carrie Yu Model: Tess Tomassini @ Models1 Makeup: Nelson Catarino Photography: Jack Grange

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Vintage coat, hat from Spitalfields, Zara jumper

One Teaspoon skirt, American Apparel top, Army surplus jacket.

LFW THREAD searched the streets at London Fashion Week to bring you the best of the British high street with a few designer pieces thrown in... everyone deserves to treat themselves sometimes.

Outfit by Topshop Unique, Hugo Boss shoes, Carolina Herrera bag

Gala Gonsalez, 28, stylist

Photography Victoria Adamson

Christianna Pugliese, 22, online assistant

Next issue...

Camden Market, March 31st

Madi Fogg, 21, buyer

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Tess Yopp, 26, designer

Margaret Zhang, 27, stylist

Tracy Cheng, 23, design student

Thuy Hoang, 28, TV presenter

Acne Jacket, MSGM top, Topshop skirt, Valentino bag, K Y E hat.

Pucci coat, Christopher Kane jacket & skirt, Givenchy shirt, Prada shoes

Coat & top Zara, necklace & trousers Topshop, glasses Alexander McQueen, bag Chanel

Outfit by Topshop Unique, Michael Kors bag

Hat & cardigan vintage, jacket Urban Outfitters, jeans Levis, shoes Topshop

Coat vintage, shirt Topshop, bag eBay trousers H&M, shoes Doc Martens

Lucy Hewitt, 22, student

Glasses Primark, scrunchie Urban Outfitters, jewellery vintage, shirt eBay

Coat Quiz, shirt & necklace H&M, skirt Primark, bag Zara, shoes Aldo

Amy Cunningham, 28, personal shopper

Sian Hindle, 25, blogger

Lauren Gorman, 21, sales assistant

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Naomi Carmichael, 20, waitress

THREAD scoured around Manchester city centre to bring you a selection of the most vibrant shoppers. Bold and statement accessories are clearly the key in this northern city.

Photography Hoy Fashion

Liv McKiernan, 24, visual merchandiser

Maisie Feeney, 25, teacher

Next issue...

Northern Quarter, March 29th

MANCHESTER ARNDALE

Hat Miss Selfridge, dress Boohoo, jacket vintage

Jacket French Connection, Dress The Outnet, bag Zara, shoes Kurt Geiger

Jacket Zara, top & necklace H&M, jeans Levis. shoes Mango, bag Zara

Glasses vintage, jacket eBay, headband Claires accessories

LIVERPOOL One

THREAD headed to the main shopping area of Liverpool to find some seriously bold outfits, forget the eyebrows, scousers understand style with prints and over sized accessories.

Next issue...

Concert Square, March 28th

Photography Hoy Fashion

Shirt Primark, dungarees vintage. trainers Urban Outfitters, bag foreign market

Top & necklace River Island, skirt ASOS, shoes Topshop, bag Mulberry

Nicole West, 24, PR executive

Sophie Hylands. 21, sales assistant

Alyssia Walsh, 20, music student

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Mia Fletcher, 24, journalist

Harriett Parker, 22, student

Chelsey Varey, 28, head buyer

Naomi Carmichael, 25, solicitor

Glasses Osiris, shirt Mango, coat eBay

Jacket Afflecks Palace, skirt H&M, top Motel Rocks, shoes Doc Martens

Cardigan House of Frazer, jeans J Crew, shoes Zara, bag Lulu Guiness

Blazer Alexander Wang, shirt Uniqlo, shorts Topshop, bag Stella McCartney, shoes Kurt Geiger

Top French Connection, trousers Topshop, jacket Tesco, belt Urban Outfitters, coat French Connection

Claire Burgess, 21, student

Top Topman, trousers Zara, hat OBEY, jacket Topman, shoes Dr Martens

Jamie Millican, 25, sales assistant

Dress Small Change Vintage, bag Mulberry, belt Small Change Vintage, shoes Hobbs

Top H&M, skirt New Look, bag vintage, shoes Topshop

Emma Barton, 20, media

Nicole Abdul, 26, buyer

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95 Photography NE1 Newcastle Fashion Week

Lauren Flynn, 18, sales assistant

Joshua Hough, 18, student

Olivia Swash, 24, journalist

THREAD went to Eldon Square to scout out Newcastle’s most stylish in attendance at NE1 Newcastle Next issue...

Fashion Week.

Osbourne Road, March 28th

ELDON SQUARE

Newcastle

Top vintage, trousers H&M, bag primark, coat vintage

Top Topman, trousers River Island, shoes Topman

Top charity shop, trousers Topshop, bag Fenwick, glasses Gant, shoes Kurt Geiger

Presents SEWN, Contemporary Textile Exhibition

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or King Crumpet, a Northeast-based events company, championing new and emerging textile talent is what they do best. Hannah Butler, creative director at King Crumpet, describes herself as an artist, knitter and crafter. She set up King Crumpet in 2013 as a community for artists and designers to showcase their contemporary textile work.

perfect venue for the inaugural SEWN exhibition. Four talented designers showed their diverse and completely unique collections.

As we meandered around the independent exhibition, it really resonated on us the talent there is in the North-East and how much it is not celebrated.

Stitching, knitting and crafts are stereotyped into an over-60s, ‘thing to do while drinking tea and watching Songs of Praise’ category.

But with pushing British heritage, textiles and craftsmanship, an important initiative at the moment supporting events and people like this is vital.

THREAD were invited along on Friday evening to Hartlepool Further Education College. The impressive architecture of the college really stands out against the bleak Hartlepool city and it was the

Although King Crumpet are a relatively young company, the work they do is so important to young designers with no funding who are trying to break into a profession deemed as one of the

Leaving the cheerful venue and vibrant people, the only unjust of the night was the prices of the art, that did not reflect in anyway the talent or craftsmanship that had gone piece of work.

LINEAR OUTLINE: Linear Outline, preaches exactly what it says in the title, adding lines of beautiful thread to old vintage photos. The collection titled ‘Emotional Ties’ uses personal family photos of a long gone era and injects them with colour, dyes and innovative uses of thread.

most competitive.

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Rosebud Casson:

POPPYCOCK: Poppycock’s work was bold, colourful, and had so much detail it could have been mistaken for digital computer work. From framed illustrations to knitted cushions and brooches, there clearly is no end to the young designers talent. Watercolours featured heavily in this collection, with such precise execution to create rainbow hued illustrations.

Rosebud Casson who takes great inspiration from nature, and titled her collection ‘Nature Magnified’, had truly exquisite detail in her embroidery, adorning accessories and garments. With beautifully hand-stitched dragonflies literally fluttering off collars and sea urchins forming handbag-like pouches.

Designers left-right// Rosebud Casson, Linear Outline, Kayleigh Falcus, Hannah Butler and Poppycock

Instantly after seeing the work of Kayleigh Falcus and the dark, towering, skyline artwork it was clear to see the ‘big apple’, NYC, was her main inspiration after travelling there. Thriving off the simplicity and the clean linear designs, this collection was more art based than textile based, but with some of her artwork being stitched into, it was a very unique touch.

KAYLEIGH FALCUS:

THREAD.CO.UK

Diana Verde Nieto Co-founder of Positive Luxury. The programme behind the Butterfly Mark, which is awarded to luxury brands and companies that are taking positive steps towards social and environmental sustainability.

What Does Sustainable Fashion Mean To You?

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hichever way you absorb the word,’sustainable’, trendy it is not. However we can’t escape the grumblings of global warming, over consumption and human disasters such as the Rana Plaza factory disaster. One year on from the factory collapse in Bangladesh, Fashion Revolution Day was created to raise awareness of the problems globally in the fashion industry.

“

On the 24th April conscious fashionistas all over the world will target specific brands to get them to open up their increasingly opaque supply chains. Demanding that we know who makes our clothes, and what lies behind the brand labels.

Caring about the environment and creating garments that are long lasting and aren’t too damaging on the world. From the dyeing not affecting the land and people getting treated in a fair way. Something ever lasting and not throw away Dilys Williams

”

Fashion Revolution Day will encourage people to turn their clothes #insideout, take a selfie and tag the brand to ask #whomadeyourclothes?

As a consumer we need to ask ourselves the question, how have we led fashion into this vicious cycle of over consumption and how has it taken the death of 1,129 people for us to stand up and start questioning brands? As part of a global effort Somerset House are holding a series of talks to address the luxury, ethical and high street areas of fashion. THREAD caught up with Diana Verde Nieto, Dilys Williams and Mimma Viglezio ahead of their talk on April 15 to discuss the learning’s from Rana Plaza and what we can consciously do as aconsumer in the future.

“

To ensure that future generations can enjoy the world today in the same way that we are. Meaning that the conservation of natral resources, the replenish of those resources and creating different ways to cater for the population growth today

”

Diana Verde Nieto

In discussion at Somerset House

Mimma: The problem at the basis is that people consume too much without thinking. The modern world must avoid modern slaves, underpaid and overworked. We need to teach the modern generation that buying a pair of jeans for £2, a garment that has been made by a human being and flown from far away, you cannot imagine that it has been done in a clean, ethical and sustainable way.

“The fashion industry does not set out to kill people.”

THREAD.CO.UK

Dilys: The fashion industry does not set out to kill people. It sets out to clothe people in a beautiful way and make money out of doing so. There is a disconnection between what we are wearing, what we are buying and where it comes from now, this is a fundamental problem across the world.

Mimma: The consumer is the culprit, but only because of the margins companies are trying to achieve. People don’t want over priced products and it costs a lot to sell on Bond Street and advertise in Vogue so if you want to keep the margins who do you squeeze the most? The people that they use. If I had a solution I would be on the cover of TIME magazine!

Dilys Williams fashion designer, collaborator, and creator of Centre for Sustainable Fashion. Lectures at London College of Fashion aswell as being a personal consultant for brands and designers.

Mimma Viglezio Began her career working in communications for luxury brands such as Bulgari and Celine. In 2003 she became Executive VP of Communications Director at the Gucci Group. In mid-2010 she was appointed as a Trustee for UN project Ethical Fashion.

#

Let’s turn the fashion industry #insideout For more information visit: fashionrevolution.org

Dilys: There is a power imbalance across the world, it is Diana: The Louis Vuitton canvas is one of the most a social and economical manifestation of itself. People polluting leathers on the planet. But this year LV have have excess at different levels and fashion will always been awarded a butterfly mark for their conscious effort be a vital part of our lives but this model cannot exist in altering their trademark accessories, and are investing millions into re evaluating the process. anymore, we cannot wait until we are stuck and we are Dilys: Your wardrobe is the window to fighting over water and land. That will be a sorry state your soul and we must make sustainability trendy. I for humanity. believe in changing cultures Mimma: I like that fashion has democratized “You don’t need fashion but until the time and cherishing the things we and everyone can when fashion becomes like food what can we have.

Mimma: The good news consume trends, but it is do as a consumer to help the environment, today is street style, which about balancing, things and what are brands doing now?” have got totally out of is very different to 4 years control and luxury and high ago. You can keep items and street need to coexist. make them modern and relevant even years later. Young Dilys: We have got into a bad habit of buying more people, in London especially, have a lot of creativity. things and getting an adrenaline rush out of buying Dilys: Also, we can’t just start boycotting stores. I things, thinking it is what we want. choose certain stores and organisations but be careful because the people working for that organisation will FAST FASHION be the ones harmed not the big bosses. People need to follow in the footsteps of London College of Fashion graduates Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen, Dilys: The word ‘sustainability’ has been hijacked. When who have adapted new roles in their design it is next to a garment it is thought of only as a departments, to think about sustainability throughout specific material or process but if we broaden and their designing process. expand the idea of sustainability people will want to connect with it. The narrative around fashion needs to be more explored.

Mimma: Yes, it is a matter of culture. If you are wearing something that has a stamp of disapproval then you will not want it. We need to mark a scarlet letter on brands that won’t cooperate with sustainability. When I was at Gucci it was one of the first sustainable offices in Mayfair. It took a lot to persuade the board to get involved as you can’t just go to Gucci or Fendi and say stop selling fur or leather, but you can travel to Finland and explore more ethical ways of doing so.

One thing we can all take from Fashion Revolution Day is that brands will not change, unless we as the consumer continue to put pressure on them and demand a more transparent industry. We also need to learn that although clothes are a necessity, overconsumption is not benefitting anyone.

Awareness needs to be higher, and information should be being demanded from these brand giants.

Food produce legally has to tell you the origin of their growth, so why isn’t fashion the same?

Turn to p.102 for a Q&A session with Diana, Dilys and Mimma!

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Fashion Revolution: Luxury Practice We asked Diana, Dilys and Mimma the questions you sent into us last issue. If you would like any more advice from these three talented professionals please pass on your questions to info@threadmag.co.uk

Q

What are companies doing differently who were manufacturing clothes in Rana Plaza?

There were 28 companies in Rana Plaza. Primark was one of the biggest and have given £7mil to the fund, but £40mil is yet to be raised just to compensate those injured. The best place for info is labourbehindthelabel.com with links and information on the agreement. Also if you look on the Primark website or email them asking what their policies are.

It is hard as a consumer to know what companies are doing in terms of sustainability, is there anything else we can do?

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Mimmi: The first step to take is refusing to pay a small amount of money. I am not saying pay £100 for a pair of jeans but think about why you are paying £10 for a pair of jeans?

Dilys: You can’t tell just by the price tag. Look at companies who show that their workers have trade union rights; they campaign so there is a greater equality of voice.

Diana: Positive luxury is there to assess brands and verify what they are saying is true. We do not rate them as every company is on a journey to sustainability. We assess them and every year we go back and redo it.

I am a fashion designer and find it very hard to find manufacturers who wish to share their ethical values with me as a designer. I can’t find any services in the UK, is there anywhere to develop my brand in the luxury sector?

At University of the Arts London we look at funding. DISC (designer innovation sourcing centre) specifically link designers with UK manufacturers. They work with them to generate local economies.

Green washing is good for some brands, but how can people get around the issue, what is your approach to looking at how good is good and how green is green?

Dilys: When brands start to realise that by not attaching to something like that they make themselves vulnerable. Green Peace and Friends of the planet look closely at all of this. Social media is really powerful and conversations that people have start to make brands feel more nervous. No brand can sit there and pretend they don’t know what is going on. We are starting to get traction now. Fashion revolution is getting behind the campaign of where are my clothes from. We want to get the message out there and every year the questions will go deeper and deeper.

It is too easy for brands to blame the supply chain. Will it get better or more difficult for them?

Mimmi: It is changing, they wont be able to say it any more because people will laugh. Legislation is not yet there, but it is about self-regulation, which is a lot more valuable sometimes.

Dilys: The system is broken, it is not about blame or responsibility. Something is going to get squeezed along the way so we need to develop new models for businesses.

Why will people work for such a small wage? Are they working with governments in third world countries to tackle the root of the problem, such as education?

Dilys: Nike had a child labour scandal in the 80s. There is a corporate social responsibility from companies. There is a lot of work to be done in the developing world.

Mimmi: I don’t know what exactly brands are doing now, but I do believe strongly that if you treat your employees well they will give you more. Most people don’t realise the better you treat your people the more you get back.

There is the margin problem and it is not that Mr Rana is a good man who was forced to squeeze his margins he didn’t believe in ethics.

LIVE THREAD

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Explore the capital like never before in this London edition of THREAD. Turn to p.108 to explore the work of French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier or party in London’s top night hotspot XOYO (p.110).

Let THREAD give you ideas on how to LIVE. Next issue will see us travel to the hidden North East gem, Newcastle.

see it > book it > live it 3 1. The World of Jean Paul Gaultier @ The Barbican Museum, London (p.108) 2. Eats Everything at XOYO, London (p.112) 3. Mexican cuisine at La Bodega Negra (p.110)

“If there were no other reason to go to Florence and Rome just when Spring begins to whisper, Italian fashion would fully justify our going”

Jean Paul Gaultier @ The Barbican Museum

Carmel Snow, New York Journal, 1953

“You are a true designer when people recognize your work without even looking at the label – this is the case for Jean Paul Gaultier” Pierre Cardin There is nothing static about this exhibition with even the models featuring projected faces who sing, speak and even wink at you. So ooo la la, so Jean Paul Gaultier.

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The ‘enfant terrible’ of the fashion world, has brought his 40 years of work to The Barbican museum, London. Never before have I walked around a museum and gawped in sheer admiration at every piece.

Prada 2012

The collection meanders around chronologically through his life, describing how his grandmother used to let him watch TV, a rarity in France at the time and where he sourced many of his ideas. Plus anecdotes of how the first corset he made was for his teddybear (getting the practice in before Madonna was to don his iconic cone bra).

Adult: £12 Full-time students: £8 12 - 17 year olds: £8 Daily 10.00 - 17.30 Friday 10.00 - 21.30

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Gaultier, who is to turn 62 at the end of the month, has been inspired by anything and everything, with the exhibitionspanning two floors of the museum. Every piece was exquisite, with the most detailed stitching, the most vibrant colours and the most elaborate of designs.

The museum concludes with his many muses, most controversially the late Amy Winehouse in 2012, Naomi Campbell, Boy George and Farhida Khelfa. JPG once famously placed an ad in French newspaper, Libération asking “non-conformist designer seeks unusual models – the conventionally pretty need not apply.”

The classic Breton style that has become synonymous with the French designer carries on to the gift shop, and you can even carry on your experience at the bar sipping on a Conical cocktail lounging on furniture designed by the master himself.

9 April – 25 August Sunday – Wednesday: 10am–6pm Thursday –Saturday: 10am–9pm Bank Holiday Monday: 12–6pm Bank Holiday Friday: 12–9pm

Students: £9 13-17 yrs: £9 Adults: £12

Italian fashion was the only glimmer of hope to emerge post WW11 and the first fashion show in Florence was attended by presidents, socialites and a buyers list including British man Harvey Nichols himself. The term ‘Made In Italy’ became synonymous with the finest Italian leather and craftsmanship, coming out of the world-renowned fashion houses; Missoni, Versace and Prada. After walking around the exhibition it is filled with glamour and sparkle on every mannequin, with a clear ethos of just how talented the Italian super families are.

The exhibition, celebrating 70 years of Italian fashion, has opened at the Victoria & Albert museum, London.

Chronicling the work from the first internationally recognised fashion show in 1951, to the ‘Made In Italy’ era, the allure of Italian leather and concluding in what the future holds for Italian fashion.

In the 1970s Milan began to take over from Florence and Rome as the fashion capital, and the 80s saw the peak of ready-to-wear clothing. As you meander past film reels, men’s tailoring, Vespa’s and accessories you enter the final room dressed as photographer’s softbox featuring 21st century Italian fashion.

Some iconic pieces that have been curated over the two years by Sonnet Stanfill and her team include Miuccia Prada’s flame heels of 2012

and Roberto Capucci’s, flamboyant 1987 pink and green dress.

Stanfill traveled to over 30 archives to source many of the pieces on show, ranging from New York’s Metropolitan Museum to tiny art stores in Italy and the stores of the brands themselves.

Before you leave you are left pondering over the future of Italian fashion after watching a video starring Franco Sozzani, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pierpaolo Piccioli and other Italian figureheads. Fashion is one of the most booming industries in Italy thanks to exports, yet they have never had the support of the government. How long will we continue to see ‘Made In Italy?’

LA BODEGA NEGRA -Old Compton St, London-

5/5

If you dare to enter what looks like a sex shop in the middle of a London street, you will find the hidden Mexican that is La Bodega Negra. You are greeted at the door, still all very Brothel-esque, but instead hand over your coat and get taken to a table. If large, flavourful Mexican food is your dish you won’t get it here. Instead small but perfectly cooked dishes of the finest meat are served. The atmosphere was amazing, but unfortunately the best part of the meal was the frozen margarita!

WE ATE

WE ATE Chilli cheese fries £4.65 Brownie points £4.45

ED’S DINER

-Soho, Moor St, London-

2/5

Sesame Tostadas Guacamole £5.50 Braised Beef Salsa Picante £6.50

WE DRANK Cherry Cola, £2.50

Get transported back to the 1950s with this authentic diner. If you are lucky enough to grab a seat, pull up at the bar and fill your boots with hearty American dishes and calories aplenty.

Starting up the mini dukebox infront of me while I divulged in the brownie points desert was the perfect treat to end a working week!

WE DRANK

Orange & Cranberry Frozen Margaritas £8.50

ED’S DINER

EAT LON DO N. DRI NK LON DO N. LIV E LON DO N

LON DO N EAT LON DO N. DRI NK LON DO N. LIV E

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WASABI

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SHAKE SHACK

-Oxford St, London-

-Covent Garden, London-

Authentic Japanese food in the heart of London, served in minutes at an amazing price… you may just think you have walked into an authentic Thai noodle bar! Grab an already prepared sushi box or take your pick from the hot counter. A healthy option for a quick lunchtime, but remember to wash it down with their signature green tea!

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WE ATE Single Cheeseburger & Fries £7.25

Think fast food with a touch of class. This bustling burger house gives fast food at the best quality. Choose from beefburgers with famous shack sauce, hot dogs or ‘shroom burgers’. Whatever you do get the cheese fries and don’t forget to finish it off with a concrete.

(Thick, chocloatey, custardy, mousse FYI)

WE DIVULGED Big Blend Concrete £4

WE ATE Chicken Yakisoba £4.95 WE DRANK Green tea £1.95

4/5

SPOTLIGHT:

Eats Everything @ XOYO, London

Club residencies have been very rare in the UK over recent years, but for 2014 XOYO, London are bringing four of the biggest names in the DJ world to your ears EVERY Saturday night of the year.

Kicking off the year is legendary Bristolian Eats Everything. Daniel Pearce, his “normal name”, will be bringing mammoth sets and special guests to the hot London nightspot. Eats often spends his Friday Nights in Berlin, Miami or Italy playing b2b with everyone from Carl Cox to Disclosure, so prepare yourselves for some very tasty lineups.

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THREAD caught up with the 33-year-old DJ before his penultimate set, post his rare steak and chips, in a hotel in Shoreditch.

After talking about his favourite venues to perform at (Amnesia, Ibiza FYI) and him becoming a dad this summer we headed to the club with his small and modest entourage.

With the status that Eats has you would think he would be mobbed at every corner but he casually made his way down the backstreets of Shoreditch swinging around his ‘man bag’ as

he went. We sampled the night to bring to you just why this DJ is such a legend.

The queue was huge for what was to be a huge night, and we got our VIP wristbands and headed to the DJ booth. Special guest that night was Orlando of T.E.E.D, he started the night off upstairs with his classic jungle vibes before bringing it downstairs with some house music. All before Eats came on to treat the crowd to his catchy beats and amazing mix of old school tunes with an edgy slant.

As the sweat dripped from the ceiling the crowd partied until 4am, while at the helm of the night Eats smoked on a cigarette his whole set with good pal Heidi slotting in occasionally.

Looking calm, relaxed and on top of his game this residency has left some very large shoes at the door for the next DJ. So as this residency comes to an end, next up are house and hiphop duo 2 bears, the techno duo, Joe Goddard and Raf Rundell, will also be a night not to be missed.

Buy your tickets on the night for £12, or to avoid disappointment book at www.xoyo.co.uk

ADDRESS BOOK Been inspired by a designer or store in this issue of THREAD? Track down the looks and designers here. For more information go to THREAD.CO.UK

108 mins

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15 cert.

Director: Jonathan Glazer

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UNDER THE SKIN

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t sure got under mine. Scarlett Johansson plays an alien of the most glamorous kind in this Jonathan Glazer Sci-fi mystery.

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Not many words are spoken throughout this film. Other than those of the naïve men she targets. Instead the music is a constant drumbeat and screeching in the background, enough to make the whole audience sit on the edge of their seats for the duration.

FILM REVIEW

The opening scene sees the alien, woman, Scarlett Johansson, changing into the clothes and body of a dead woman who was killed by her minder, the mysterious motorcyclist. Johansson and the minder never speak but we get the impression that he is always there to help and guide her in her quest to seduce and kill young men.

Johansson’s character is so far removed from her Hollywood status that she can go undetected as she sulks around the streets of Arbroath, Scotland, with some footage being filmed in real-time, covertly. The crimson red lips, black bob and fur coat sit paradoxically to the white Transit van, the un-named alien

transports herself in.

The first victim she approaches, asking for directions as she always does, is a medium-build man, podgy with a sense of insecurity that permeates throughout the uncomfortable scene, which sees Johansson trying to lure him back to her mother-ship. Once she finds out he doesn’t live alone, and someone would be looking for him, she abandons him, no remorse, no feelings exerted.

“One of the most powerful cinema films you will see this year, it deserves a place on stage” And straight away she dives into her next possible victim. The hunt, much like a wild animal searching for it’s next piece of meat, Johansson scours the streets scouting out a thin, cocky looking boy this time wearing a baseball cap. “I’m looking for the M8”, she tells him in her soft, wellpronounced English. The boy, clearly flattered and appreciating a lift home steps into the van.

It immediately fills with pubescent arousal as he awkwardly looks at her

chest, as she digs for more details on him.

They arrive at a house, and she leads him up the stairs and into a black lacquered room, floor to ceiling.

Always remaining 10 steps in front of him as he strips his clothes off edging towards her, but without realising in his state of arousal every step he takes is a step further into the black tar substance of her soul until he has disappeared.

We then see a reverse scene where she is violently raped by a man. A role reversal of the sexes. As her skin starts to peel away and we see the real alien, maybe she needed the men to retain her human image and now without them she must return to her homeland. Who knows what industrial, poor town the Transit could arrive in next?

Every shot in the film is a dull colouring, with disturbing scenes and is based on Michel Faber’s 14-year-old novel of the same name.

It has taken Glazer 10 years to bring it to the screen, and is definitely one of the most powerful cinema films you will see this year, it deserves a place on stage, or as an art adaptation.

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Accessorize, uk.accessorize.com // American Apparel, store.americanapparel.co.uk // Antipodium, antipodium.com // ASOS, asos.co.uk // Amy Mercer, bf70tu@student.sunderland.ac.uk // Anthony Mark Simpson (Tony Arts), facebook. com/tonyarts // Aussie, aussiehair.com/uk

Camper, camper.com // Carrie-Ann Stein, carrieannstein@hotmail.com // Carrie Yu, 2013. csmfashionprint.com // Clarks, clarks.co.uk

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NARS, narscosmetics.co.uk // Nike, nike.co.uk

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Olivia Burton, oliviaburton.com // OPI, opi.com

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Dirty Disco Vintage, dirtydiscovintage.com // Drew Jarrett, drewjarrett.com // Dr. Martens, drmartens.com

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Eastpak, eastpak.com/uk // Ed’s Diner, edseasydiner.com

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Forever 21, forever21.com // Fyodor Golan, fyodorgolan.co.uk

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George Styler, info@georgestyler.com

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H&M, hm.com // Hiroko Nakajima, press@hirokonakajima.com // Hailea Crichton, dirtydiscovintage@gmail.com // Hannah Farrington, blog. hannahlouisef@gmail.com // Head, head.com

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Jack Grange, jackgrange@icloud.com

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King Crumpet, kingcrumpet.tumblr.com // Kiss The Sky, asos.com // Kurt Geiger, kurtgeiger.com La Bodega Negra, labodeganegra.com // Levi’s, levi.com // Louisa Jayne Heyworth, louisaheyworth@hotmail.com // Love Moschino, moschino.com

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MAC, maccosmetics.co.uk // Max Factor, maxfactor.co.uk //Marcus Lupfer, marcuslupfer. com // MCRFW, mcrfashionweek.com

Barbican, barbican.org.uk

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Peroni, peroniitaly.com // Peter Lang, peterlang. com // Pippa Lynn, asos.com // Pins & Needles, urbanoutfitters.com // Pretty Little Thing, prettylittlething.com Quay Lyd, quayeyewear.com.au Ray Ban, rayban.com // Rimmel, ukrimmellondon. com // River Island, riverisland.co.uk

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Shake Shack, shakeshack.com // Shelly’s London, shellyslondon.com // SONY, sony.co.uk // Stella Katterman, stellalexandra@aol.com

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Topshop, topshop.com // Toni & Guy, toniandguy. com // Trend Bible, trendbible.com

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Urban Outfitters, urbanoutfitters.com // Urbanears, urbanears.com

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V&A, vam.ac.uk // Vintage O&O, urbanoutfitters. com // Vintage Heirloom, vintageheirloom.com // Vivienne Westwood, viviennewestwood.co.uk

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Wasabi, wasabiuk.com

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XOYO, xoyo.co.uk

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Zara, zara.com

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DEAR THREAD

QA

I’ve just graduated and have yet to embark upon the career of my dreams but all I can do is judge my life by waist and hip measurements. Depending on how ‘skinny’ I am, my motivation to achieve goals either swells or diminishes. How do I retrain my brain to acknowledge that education and career are my main priorities?

DEAR HIP, THIGH AND SIGH You are clearly an educated, fashionable and pretty fabulous woman, I mean come on you are reading THREAD? Plus you have just graduated so you have the world at your feet, whether they be a size 9 below a size 22 waist, go out there and achieve any goal you set yourself.

Everybody bothers about their weight, bikini bod prep commences in T minus 1 month, but this should not affect your confidence. Eat healthily, be fit and love life!

I know this sounds petty but my best friend copies everything I wear. She comments on something then turns up in it the next time I see her. We look like twins – it’s embarrassing. I love her but I don’t know how to ask her to stop?

118 I have lots of friends, a loving family and a job I enjoy. I am madly in love with an amazing person and I can see a future with them.

It all feels so perfect – except for the fact the person is a woman, which means I am gay. I haven’t introduced my girlfriend of 10 months to one single friend or family member, because they have no idea I am not straight. How will they view me and accept my lifestyle, I feel like I am living two lives?

DEAR HESITANT HARRIET This is 2014 you know, the modern world of liberation, acceptance and HOMOSEXUALITY! You have a loving family as said, and you are clearly in love with your girlfriend so embrace this and introduce her to your family. All they want is for you to be happy and if this is through a lesbian relationship, then show her off to the world. Life is too short to be living two lives, make the most of the one you have with everyone and everything you love in it.

DEAR MISS POLITE I know she is your best friend but come on it’s your style that has taken meticulous planning over the years.

That’s right, we know you used to wear bubble bags and slip on sandals in your teens, but now you have adopted this fabulous style and it’s not your pals. So you are going to have to be harsh and tell her straight, or be really cruel and start dressing terribly, she won’t want to copy you then! (*DISCLAIMER* only dress awfully when you are not going anywhere cool!)

I’m short with stocky legs, but I love the big clunky sandals that are everywhere for summer. Should I? Could I? DEAR FASHIONISTA You can be whatever you want to be, that is the beauty of fashion. Head to p. 54 to see the summer boot, a big ol’ clumpy thing. Maybe wear with skinny jeans so as not to make your leg look like a giant tree trunk, and yes they maybe a major man-repeller, but who cares boys are stupid anyway.

Got a problem? Write to us at dear.thread@threadmagazine.co.uk

THREAD.CO.UK

Take the test to see how far you should go in friendship eradication...

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR “BEST” MATE SLEEPS WITH SOMEONE YOU HAVE.

Jessica Simpson, Contributing writer

And no the answer is not to throw the nearest cosmopolitan over her pretty little head.. don’t go wasting a drink!

Call me traditional but if the guy has put his p in my v, I don’t expect my friend to also get said p in her v… Okay it might have been a one-night stand thing in Freshers Week, and okay I didn’t exactly remember his name, Josh? Rob? Who cares! I do however remember his amazing thighs and I found it the ultimate betrayal for her to bring him back to OUR flat whilst I was on holiday and do it.

First abit of background history. We have been friends for three years, ‘THREE YEARS?’ I can hear some of you scream, ‘I’ve gone longer without washing my jeans’. But when you are living with one another, studying with one another and squabbling over toilet roll and washing up liquid, three years is a really long time. She has always been the irrational friend, the take her with a pinch of salt friend, who I let get away with too many things as it was so much easier than arguing with her. But this, this really did push me over the edge.

And not to sound like the Virgin Mary but I don’t sleep with many people – this is due to my obsessive nature, but that story could pen a whole other book!

One night stands just are not my thing, but when they do happen (in the ‘needy’ months), I take shagging rights over him, he has been my notch on the bed post and only mine.

The thoughts of him comparing us, and wondering how my identical bedroom in the flat compared to her identical bedroom made me feel ill. ‘I wonder if he did that position with her?’ ‘I wonder what she replied when he asked if he could put his fingers there?!’ Even more so the thoughts of her loving the comparison, yes she is skinnier and yes everyone fancies her but I always had this one thing (FYI, I do know his name now, but we will still refer to him as ‘thing’!)

She did the whole, ‘I was so totally wasted act’. Pretty similar to the Alex-Binky-MIC saga, ‘I just can’t remember what happened’. Hum, okay, but for me I have never had a blackout off three vodka trebles and a couple of jägerbombs, so not to sound like my grandma but... that excuse really doesn’t wash with me! I was made to feel like an outcast for not just letting it go straight away, but as nearly half of over 18-year-olds have admitted to having a one night stand in their lifetime, should I have just let it slip like Tara Reid’s nipple?!

I did eventually let it go, after a few indirect tweets, OBV. But then it happened, she did the deed with ‘thing’, AGAIN, while I was in the flat, I repeat, WHILE I WAS IN THE FLAT. Consequently we are no longer the best of friends, and University reunions are going to be very awkward, because you will always be the ‘friend’ who got my sloppy seconds.

1. Do they have a cheeky flirt on a night out? Yes? Meh, that is fine she will be beside you in the queue at the kebab shop come the end of the night.

2. How far did they actually go?

A cheeky snog (proceed to no.3) / full blown bang (head to no.4 and don’t look back)

3. You can forgive a cheeky snog, probably ignore her and Instagram a sarcastic quote, but all will be forgotten in 24 hours.

4. Was it the one time and a complete and utter regret? (if yes read on, if no you’re onto no.5 I’m afraid).

You will probably always remember this and never trust her again, but you will follow her again on Twitter after a few weeks (OMG you can actually unfollow and refollow without people knowing!)

5. Your supposedly ‘best’ mate really is not a friend. End this now. Delete her off Facebook and those matching scrunchies you just bought last week? Yeah BURN THEM. NEXT WEEK WE TACKLE THOSE AWKWARD SEX DREAMS ABOUT PEOPLE THAT WE REALLY SHOULDN’T BE HAVING SEX DREAMS ABOUT!

WIN! WIN! WIN! WIN! WIN! WIN! WIN!

2 x Full festival tickets (including boat parties) 2 x Return flights from Manchester/ Heathrow airport 4* Accomodation for two (7 nights) “To put it simply why would you go slum it in a rainy English field in a crappy tent when you can be sunning yourself in Croatia, where the atmosphere alone kept the party going for a full week?�

Resident Advisor

Terms & conditions. Please email full name, age, location and telephone number to competitions@threadmagazine.co.uk. One entry per person. Competition closes May 31, 2014 at 12 pm. Winner will be notified by telephone on June 5, 2014. Flight times and accommodation will be decided by THREAD magazine. Entrants must be over 18 years old.

How To Do...

HAIR CHALK

Alexa and Rita are Brits to be proud of.

Copy their adaptable hair styles with these high street hair chalk products.

4 1 ‘ S/S

Climb aboard the dusty bandwagon this Spring/ Summer and reinvent your hair with just a sprinkle of hair chalk. Follow our easy guide to achieving festival ready hair in minutes.

1. Apply the chalk onto clean, dry hair.

Any extra moisture will soak up the chalk instantly. Also the chalk will fall onto your clothes so take precations!

Turn to p.126 for a hair chalk beauty shoot

SHOP IT Buy straight off THREAD iPad

123

NPW Hair Chalk, £7.50 available at Selfridges

2. Twist the hair to create a rough surface to rub the chalk onto and then massage the chalk in between your fingers.

L’oreal hair paint, £15.95. Available at Boots

* This is a chalk and therefore will dry your hair, so please do not use every day!

Bumble & Bumble spraychalk, £15.

Available at Boots

HOT TIP

Fudge, urban colour, £5.99. Available at Superdrug

3. Finish the look with a flat iron and a spray of hairspray to seal the chalk in. Mix up the look by applying at your roots or ends, and experiement with colour because remember... it all washes out!

ARABIC GO D DESS

From underwater sea creature to Arabic Princess, be transported through cultures with Tony Arts Hair and Metamorphic Unique Art.

Hair: Tony Arts Makeup: Metamorphic Unique Arts using MAC & Illamasqua Model: Sarah Boyd @ Tyne Tees Jewellery: H&M

126

D.O25.B June 1989 Age 25

“K a sz ie e Ra d” ea st le El

April 26. 2014 debut single ‘Hideaway’ reaches no.1 in UK

Written songs for...

• Rihanna • Kylie Minogue • Icona Pop

N BORN I , A CANAD 1989

Jo ine d the Royal Cana d ian Navy ag

d Miss Entere a 2009 Canad

e d 17

Cur re ntly l iv Lond on an es betwee n d New York

Profe ss baller ionally tra ina ine d

on eaway ’ d i ‘H d y Place Januar d u o l c So und 2014

o ice ard, v o b y e ee d k Stu d ie tar at Berk l ton i u B os and g Music, f o e Playe Co lleg d Day C at the Can e a Trafa lebrations, da lgar S quare 2010 in

“

When you reach a milestone, stop for a moment. Breathe it in. Reflect on the path you chose and the obstacles you faced. Think about what you did and what you could have done better. Appreciate the journey for what it taught you.

Remember where you started and then notice where you are. Laugh off the hardships you encountered then smile and start again.

Keisza. March 27, 2014

”