SEPTEMBER 1959
V OGUE YEARS
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Coco Channel
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‘50s Looking Back
The last 10 years have brought about a massive change in the lives of those belonging to the middle class; not only have they started moving to the suburbs but have also become morw family oriented with an evident increase in population. With the end of the second world war, and the destruction brought by it, people were in a look out for peace and happiness at home and elsewhere. 1950s was all about rules and stability. People were going to their conventional roles - Men going back to their jobs and women going back to homes and taking care of family and children. People started spending more on things. More than 60 percent of American had tevelvision in their homes and 40 percent had cars. Television and radio helped rock n roll become popular. Teenagers loved rock n roll and huge crowds cheered for singers like Chuck Berry and Elvis Presley. People started travelling to different cities through new build highways.
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Editor's Note The Golden age of Haute Couture, or the mid century as we call it brought with itself socio-political, economical and fundamental changes along with an uproar in fashion. The 135th edition of vogue is an ode to the last decade. A decade that threw light to colour, cuts, silhouettes, fads, trends and fashion. 1950’s being the post war decade also saw a major change in the mentality and behaviour of the classes. The understanding the of this era, includes the understanding of what was really going on and how it influenced everyone’s way of life and subsequently how they expressed themselves through their dressing Let’s not forget that people did not see the back of rationing in one form or another until 1958. Even though we look back at the fifties as a colourful vibrant era – it was really a time of hard work for the country to get back to stability. Despite the hardship, people were happy and not surprisingly there was euphoria from winning the war. By the end of the 50s, the hard work of rebuilding the country had paid off paving the way to prosperity. By the end of the decade, nearly every household had a television and people witnessed a rise in disposable income again. All these economic and social changes had a significant impact on clothing and the pace of fashion in the country. The end of this decade brings us to the forefront of highly experimental fashion, housing, medication, industries and the functioning of society in general; probing us to step into a new decade with wider avenues and an areina of prospects Vidhika Gupta
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ad of kitchen and ending of war that sorts or i man’s word ad papeer diffente
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Undercover Strategy for New Glamour In the 1950s the concept of Diminshing Waist came back. The hour glass figure women were supposed to achieve what was not found in nature for this there were many different styles of 1950s lingerie bras to choose from in the ’50s. Strapless, longline and bullet bras were among some of the most popular, just to name a few. The 1950s silhouette demanded Bigger busts to balance out the required Big hips. 1950s girdles were still a required undergarment for most dress and even pant shapes of the 1950s. They were preferred over corsets by most women. The slim fitting sheath dress, aka wiggle dress, would expose a woman’s bumps and rolls if it were not for the slimming effect of the mini
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skirt shape girdle. The skirt only came down to the mid thigh so that women could still walk and sit freely. In the mid 50s the sarong style dominated the market. It had a to panels that crossed in the center of the legs making them even easier to walk in. The most comfortable was the legged girdle, called a panty girdle. Short or long legs both slimmed the hips and thigh. Beautiful and luxurious, the slip was firmly woven from quality cotton or rayon crepe or rayon satin with rich lace, fancy eyelet, ruffles, pleats, embroidery, or applique. Slips came in full lengths,
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Sky is the Limit In the 1950s the technology took
a turn ,along with technological advancement of household good like the television and radio there were technological advancement in space also , Sputnik - the first manmade satellite, was launched. the launch of Sputnik served to intensify the arms race and raise Cold War tensions. During the 1950s, both the United States and the Soviet Union were working to develop new technology. Nazi Germany had been close to developing the world’s first intercontinental ballistic missile (ICBM) near the end of the Second World War, and German scientists
aided research in both countries in the wake of that conflict. Both countries were also engaged in developing satellites as a part of a goal set by the International Council of Scientific Unions, which had called for the launch of satellite technology during late 1957 or 1958. As Russia was the first to reach the space USA got more obsessed with sending satellite to space , so more and more funds were 14 Vogue September 1959
put in NASA . November 3, 1957. Russians launched Sputnik2 . It was the rocket to launch with a living creature into space . January 2 , 1959 the USSR launched LUNA 1.The first man - made satellite to orbit the moon .Later, finlly USA launched Pioneer 4 which landed into the sun’s orbit becoming Us’s first sun obiter The cone shape came from the other big obsession of 1950s with the technoogy , the space. Women wanted more futuristic silhouette. The obession with breast is understandable the era saw heightened femininity and womanliness The world was obsessed with rocket ship . Fashion is not an island but a response.
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Make it Pink for Mamie Time magzine conducted a study across all the major departmental stores across the country , They wanted to know which colors they associated with girls in their clothing lines . The answers came ot mixed Blue and pink . Also there is a catalog of that time which says “ Little girls shold wear - blues because is a delicate and dainty color “. It was only after war pink got the symoblic association it has now. 1953, Dwight Eisenhower, the general who won World war 2 , Becomes prisident and this actualy turns out to be a pretty important moment in the history of pink. Mamie Eisenhower- the first lady cameout in this enormous rhinestone studded pink ballgown, the newspaper had articles like “A pink pink flower bonneted First lady” which you would have never seen in the eariler decade when women were wearing blues and blacks and much simpler styles. Mamie loved the color pink and she was known for it . It was a very arbitary decisio that she loved pink and everyone else decided OK, this color is ladylike women wear.
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THINK PINK There is a great song in the moie “funny face” called “think pink” , having lyrics like “here’s our answer , here’s our solution -PINK” . SHe says that wmen in america should wear pink. arounf this time, Pink became a popular color not only in just women’s clothing, but also in the home . This is what a lot of women liked . But tere were women who didn’t want to revert back to those traditionl roles . This is
the point of time when women were depicted in pink whether real or fritional who were anything but traditional. This is not just about the color pink its about how we use it to define a person’s personality
1. Mamie Eisenhower 2. & 3. shots from the movie “think pink”
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“TO BRING BACK THE BEAUTY� Dior wanted to give back women their taste for light heartedness;, the art of suduction which ot hiffen somewhere within them because of the circumstanses The suit delicately displays the feminine body however the tailored jacket adds just the perfect touch of structure to the overall look.
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Take a look at Dior’s New Look Dior particularly loved to be flamboyant when it came to his evening dresses where he could really experiment with mass quantities of fabric. He was particularly fond of strapless evening dresses and used built-in feather boning to hold the dresses up which was a feat of engineering in itself as they were rather on the large side. Tulle was often the fabric of choice for his evening wear skirts as it naturally creates light-weight volume. The striking silhouette of tiny waists with emphasis on the hourglass curves creating an almost caricature body shape has had a recent resurgence in popularity.
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Cardinal Comfort
There are two styles of pants that the 1950s are most known for: capri and cigarette pants. Capri pants get most of the attention, but it was the cigarette pants that were worn more often. Cigarette pants had high waists, side or back zippers, flat fronts, wide waistbands (3 inches), no belt loops, which showcased fuller hips and were slim fitting through the legs. They ended just above the anklebone. Wide leg 1940s pants were still worn into the early 50s as well with a more tailored fit, higher crotch and flat front (no pleats.) Cigarette pants usually came in black. Brighter colors were reserved for capri pants and sport shorts. In the later 1950s, more patterns like polka dots, checks, stripes, and leopard prints appeared on casual cigarette pants. Cigarette pants were sometimes worn with a thin leather belt placed in the center of the waistband. Belts and belt loops were considered too masculine. A smooth, high waistband was more flattering on the cigarette pant. Pants in the 1950s were called capris’, not pants, not trousers, just capris. This is confusing today since we tend to call cropped pants capris and full length pants ‘pants’ or ‘trousers’. In the 1950s, capris were usually black. Capri pants fit like cigarette pants except they ended at mid calf with a slit on each side. Every woman a had a few pairs in her wardrobe.“Black capris were the answer to most casual what-towear problems.” – Black matched all colors easily
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but they were especially popular with striped shirts. Striped knit shirts were called Italian or Roman shirts. A red and white shirt with black Capris certainly looked very Italian. Paired with blue pants gave a nautical look like summer clothes on the Italian riviera. To look European was a big deal in the ’50s.
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The Great Revolutionist:
Coco is Back Her fashion philosophy remained unchanged: she extolled function and comfort in dress and declared her aim of making women look pretty and young. On the 5th February 1954 she presented her first post-war collection, a line of understated suits and dresses. “A dress isn’t right if it is uncomfortable.… A dress must function; place the pockets accurately for use, never a button without a button-hole. A sleeve isn’t right unless the arm moves easily. Elegance in clothes means freedom to move freely Chanel’s modern suits in nubby wools, tweeds, or jersey fabrics with their multiple functional pockets, teamed with gilt chains and fake pearl jewelry; her distinctive handbags; and her slingback shoes with contrasting toe caps, became fashion staples for the affluent.
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Chanel’s comfortable cardigan suits which was vry different than the “new look “ and didnt require women to wear multilayer undergarments but women still refered wearing girdles
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hair i
1. PIXIE CUT
Audrey Hepburn also wore short straight fringe bangs that shaped down to the ears in the Pixie haircut. The rest of the hair tapered shortly around her thin face. She debuted the Pixie the 1953 movie Roman Holiday.
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Smaller the better! 2. SHORT BANGS
Short fringe bangs, about an inch above the eyebrows, with longer pieces in the center tapering shorter to the sides, was another popular shape in the mid-50s. Curly, straight and wavy bangs were all adopted.
3. POODLE CUT
A bit shorter with curls combed to the side and finally shortening her hair further into an all over curly bob. Also called a bubble cut is was worn by Jacki Kennedy on her wedding day in 1953.
4. BOUFFANT CUT
At first, the Italian cut was grown out with more volume shaped upward on top of the crown. Gradually it lengthened to the chin where the hair was swept up and back. The 50s boufant still had a tousled look 2
3
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hollywood aspect - fashion icons
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Elvis Presley
(left) straight leg Trousers, an open neck polo shirt, a bomber jacket and white sneakers. It’s not going to change the world, but it’s an effortless combo that anyone can recreate. (right) around 1956, Elvis dressed in a way that simultaneously mirrored convention and defied it:h he wore black trousers and loafers, with a white shirt under a loose fitting, contrasting tailored jacket. It was smart but sassy too, even disruptive. Elvis said “ on stage I wear clothes as flashy as it can get but in public I like real consevative clothing”. But one thing he never wore are : Jeans when he had to for a role , levi's made the first black denim and named it “elvis Presley”
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Presely’s mpst iconic look , performing rock ‘n’ roll
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REBEL, WITHOUT A CAUSE Best remembered for his star-making turn as disaffected outcast Jim Stark in the 1955 film, Rebel Without a Cause, His disheveled appearance combined with his emotionally vulnerable screen performances did much to define a new era of masculinity, characterized by a rugged blend of machismo and sensitivity. He likely favored T-shirts for their ease and simplicity, pairing them with denim, boots or penny loafers, and a cigarette. Before him T shirt was considered as an undergarment Dean’s personal style was inherently casual, and it’s likely that the years he spent on an Indiana farm influenced his largely function-first wardrobe. The bright red blouson in Rebel will forever be his signature look, but Dean wore a number of other lightweight jackets of greater versatility, including a tan suede jacket (in the same film), and a leather biker jacket with fur collar (clearly inspired by his hero, Marlon Brando) that helped to popularize the leather jacket as a wardrobe staple.
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Elizabeth Taylor fast became a silver screen siren and style icon thanks to her covetable curves and picture perfect smile that captured international audiences. Snapped here in 1948 sporting a classic bathing suit, it’s easy to see why her beauty redefined the classic Hollywood aesthetic. Only Elizabeth could make fish-net tights, a polo neck top and heavy lashings of eyeliner look understatedly chic.
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Marilyn Monroe An international sex symbol and style sensation was born. One of the greatest and most recognisable fashion and beauty icons of all time, she defined glamour for a generation when she belted out Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend. She had the perfect hour glass figure that every girl aspire to have. She always used to highlight her curves whether she is in he full bathing suit or her iconic strip dresses . Looking like Her is everywomen's dream Vogue September 1959 39
M
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ake-up ircles
“Love grows on trifles- Subtle yet protocative effects any girl can achieve. Put your best face forword and that man will find it unforgetable” VOGUE
SPECIAL
EDITION
A
really glamorous decade for women’s makeup. Creams were the in thing in foundations and shadows.It was the era of the ‘mask effect’. A thick creamy application of foundation and flesh colored powders to set. Eyebrows became arched and more yet feminine. Rouges were less emphasized than in the 1940’s. If there was a color to define the 1950’s –it has to be pink. Pink hues in shadows and reddish pink lipsticks; dark and defined. A much heavier makeup look for the face was in order with liquid foundations and loose powder appearing on dressing tables again. The eye shadow look of this decade was much more defined than in previous decades, eye-shadows now containing shimmer and a huge palette of colors. Revlon produced ‘eye-shadow palettes’ with two or three shades to create a specific look. A soft but definite eye line and eyebrows a slightly darker shade than the natural. Skin improvement cosmetics began to sell as fast as the old traditional ‘face paint’. The consumer race was on to create the perfect youth preserving cosmetics. In 1949-50 Hazel Bishop unveiled to much excitement the first non smear lipstick. Revlon followed this with their own by own non-smear lipstick’ in 1953. The ruling shades were pastels in the 1950’s and pink lipstick replaced the reds for a time as the lip color of choice – especially among younger women. Audrey Hepburn once declared that she ” believed in pink!
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M
aría Eva Duarte de Perón (or Evita, as she was called by her supporters) continues to be a controversial figure in Argentina’s history, loved and hated by many, even though it has been decades since her death in 1952. It is undeniable that she left her mark on our society and that she will always be considered an eternal fashion icon, amongst other things. The European tour of 1947 changed her look one more time. After that journey she simplified her look to take some distance from her overdressed style. Nevertheless, she embraced Christian Dior’s New Look—a wasp waist with full midi skirts. From the pompadour, a complicated hairdo, her hair was pulled back into a low braided chignon. A perfect complexion and nude make-up with red lips were also part of her new signature aspect. Deep cleavage, strapless, floral prints, draped dresses and fur coats were common choices for evening occasions; alongside sumptuous jewelry—she always wore earrings during the day. Her style had become simpler but not ant less expensive. In fact, both Dior and Jacques Fath had mannequins in their ateliers with Eva’s measures to work on her custom-made dresses. Asked in an Italian interview about his royal clients, Dior replied, “The only queen I ever dressed was Eva Perón” Eva used fashion as an instrument of communication. She wanted to say something through her clothes. She had a humble origin and was motivated to help the poor, but dressed as an upper class woman, perhaps to show that anyone could ascend socially in those days. Even when she was at the Foundation, she wore her best clothes, explaining that she was the hostess and liked to receive her guests with the best she had. Evita used to say, “I want to look beautiful for my grasitas (Argentinean expression similar to sleazy)”. Another reason for her exquisite style was to compete with the fine wealthy ladies that despised her. That particular competition had grown fierce. As a result, the high fashion houses started to develop two collections per season: one for Evita, and another for their traditional clients
“ONLY QUEEN I EVER DRESSED WAS EVA PERÓN”
-Christian Dior
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Newage, Teenage Popular music indicated that America’s youth held an interest in fashion with such hit songs as “White Sports Coat” and “Blue Suede Shoes.” However, people aged 15-21 were ignored by department stores and were expected to dress like their older counterparts. This was true despite the fact that people in that age group had a whole lot of disposable cash at that time. Fashion designers sold full skirts and stiff petticoats, or a super-slim skirt and sweater with bows.
Teenage girls wearing a version of “new look”
Vogue September 1959 44 Teenage bogs wearing the James Dean look
Teenaged girls were seen carrying both skirts and pants with the same ease Tight-fitting pedal pushers or capri pants were popular leisure wear and jeans (which in the 1950s were called dungarees) were becoming acceptable after people saw a photo of Marilyn Monroe wearing a pair. Young men wore a shirt, tie and sharply pressed slacks. If you were the rebellious type, however, you wore dark clothes all the time, refused to iron anything and were just generally looking rough on purpose. One 1950s fad for girls was to wear a man’s shirt outside their jeans. In high school, a soft sweater paired with a collared blouse was a smart look. People definitely dressed up special for formal events. For weddings and proms, young women wore fancy dresses like their elders. But clothing choices were quite a bit different for informal school dances. Most teenagers were spotted wearing oversized clothes that their elders picked for them keeping in mind their growing bodies. Many teen girls preferred full skirts, some with 4-inch hems. These skirts were often made of wool felt fabric in bright colors, including the world famous poodle skirt. Prints that were influenced ny france also did the rounds at the same time.
Teenages wearing oversizd baggy jeans , paired with oxwards and loffers
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ely s wid a w s 950 the 1 ost of it n g n i M ur ee ing d styling. ing had b c n a d al s' d sw an Teen in steps sed, but nd region . a a rs d varie ll swing-b cal styles thirty yea d n ti o was s ing into l ecade for t be low a . In r d g h diver ons each ol it mig nd angula es, v o a ti varia high sch er, wild swing mo eps in h e t t st In on h; in ano s constan ing with and, t h c a smoo areas it w t was dan partner's ions t i r some in others ding you er innova l h o while simply h oves. Ot , m place o swing e n . as th w s with ed below n 't tio st varia eens didn re w are li e we —t or n tive f the time ents who so n e c f in ar e, One ousness o e their p ir lifestyl d style k i e i l n rebel o dance l ving of th of step a r t o e fo r t g wan y disapp ide ran tivation y l w o impl e activ vented a nother m k'n'roll s some in A oc g, they ements. sic. R of dancin eat of u m c repla e was the nt styles ng backb e g o chan for differ d the str e r d calle ch mirro i the of wh d as or e i r a . sv g, rock just a d jitterbu ie-woogie s a w og gy alle inolo his was c 'n'roll, bo then so t m r e k T u w T e roc p," b as ne ing. danc Lindy, th rd Bop w d "the Bo of low y o le g, swin . The w g was cal o a famil d in t p n e or Bo t ever ythi y referred eps danc s st ll almo ord usua ston-like partner. a e w l that ing Char without s l e swive sometim , e plac
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VOGUE’S NEW
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CRASH DIET Reduce 5 pounds in 5 days --
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New Crash Diet
However firm her conviction, there comes a time in every womans life when a good dependable makeshift is in order. She may know for a fact, for instance thet the only way to lose weight permanently is the long term one of controlled eating, proper exercise. She may be planning to start su h a regime the week after next- or anyway, coming up this week end, and a dress to be got into, the diet printed her could be her cup of tea. Not long term but short shrift, its just a five days long and ains at an average loss of a pound a day. Enough that is, to make a difference between a well fitted size twelve and a tight one; enough to restorw a usually good figure to its proper perspective.
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday HONEYDEW MELON ONE SOFT BOILED EGG. PROTEIN TOAST
ONE SLICED GRAPES ORANGE. ONE BLACK COFFEE OR SOFT BOILED EGG. PROTEIN SANKA TOAST
Lunch
BROILED LEAN HAMBURGER LETTUCE AND TOMATOES
Tea Dinner Supper
the grape diet
Breakfast
Monday and Tuesday
VEGETABLE JUICE LEAN ROAST BEEF CUCUMBER SALAD
HALF BROU- TOMTO JUICE BROILED LED CHICKEN HALIBUT LETTUCE SALCOLE SLOW AD (BAKED FRESH FRUIT APPLE TEA
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For The Feet
In the early 1950s the stiletto heeled opera, court and pump shoes were all the rage. At an extreme, they were very tall with 4-inch spiked ultra thin heels. Early on, the heels ended in a small metal cap that left dents in soft wood floors, requiring some museum and court houses to forbid stiletto shoes. The stiletto featured tall arches with a V shaped cut away from the shoe sides. Red was the most bold and most in demand color for formal wear. They were impractical and mostly only worn for very special occasions, short durations, and by fashion models. For everyday wear, around the house or running errands, a thicker low to mid heeled pump was the best choice. Black was the color that went with the most outfits, so every woman had at least one pair. One style of day pumps were called Baby Dolls. They featured very round toes that resembled a doll’s shoes. They came in many fun colors during the spring and summer, with cute accent decorations on the trim or an ornament on the vamp.
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With high heels and casual flats dominating 1950s footwear, the question of how women dealt with rain and snow in winter is a common one. There were a few solutions depending on the severity of weather. First the rain. Rain boots or galoshes have gone unchanged since the start of the 1900s. The 1950s version offered up thin rubber boot covers that fastened to one side. They were worn over shoes mimicking the shape of women’s high heels. Another option were rubber slip in heels or loafer that were worn instead of nice shoes (which were often carried and changed into once inside). And finally, tall rubber rain boots like those you still see today were the ultimate in wet weather protection. Most ladies’ rain boots and shoes had a small to medium sized heel to keep a woman looking ladylike.
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SET TO SWIM Ladies of the 1950s sure knew how to make an entrance to the beach or at a poolside party. Despite their modesty, 1950s swimsuits and bathing suits had plenty of style and personality. Strapless, skirted 50s swim dresses, vintage one piece bathing suits and high waisted two piece 50s bikinis are all perfect choices for the retro pin up in you. 50s swimsuit choices grow every year blending vintage style and modern trends together. Some 50s bathing suits are close reproductions whiwwle others take the modesty of retro swimwear and combined it with new prints American 1950s swimwear designers were most notably Clair McCardell, Tina Leser, Tom Brigance and Carolyn Schurer. Brand names were Cole of California, Jantzen, Rose Marie Reid, Elizabeth Stewart and B.V.D. Some catalogs like Sears and Montgomery Wards also had
their own lines of swimwear although the selection was small. Lane Bryant specialized in plus size swimsuits that favored dark colors, modest coverage, and the swim dress style. The fabrics used for 1950s swimwear were 58 Vogue September 1959
[ greatly improved in the ‘50s. Nylon and elastic were added to jerseys to up the stretch and make suits dry faster after a dip. Then came improvements to Lastex, a rubberized material developed in the 1940s. This combined with acetate, taffeta, and cotton created most of the swimsuits materials of the 1950s. Bathing suits had a slightly knitted feel to them and considerable weight compared to today’s thin fabrics. An effort was made to make smoother fabrics that hugged a woman’s curves but didn’t show any lumps and bumps too. Bra tops were usually lined and many also had Pellon firmed bra cups. Some swimsuits were also boned in the chest area or on the torso (like a longline bra.) Separate rubber swimming panties were worn under swimsuits to provide even more smoothing and shaping. Needless to say, the swimsuit was
less about swimming and more about looking like a pinup. Even at the time of swimming women had to be all done head to toe.
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Shopping Guide for the Vogue reader Colour essentials as of now: something black, something red, something pale.
Important news in summer cuts: higher waists, blousing lines
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It’s the season, summer is, when fresh dresses are just abour as essential as salads. And sinxe youll be needing new clothes if only dor comfort, for the weather. and the travel ahead, you might aswell have them with all the smartness that your money can manage. (And there”s really no extra charge for this!) The black summer dress: at the head of this list, and for the same reason that Paris made so much news of it this season- its the perfect prop for the bigger, more beautiful new hats. (consult any issure of Vogue, from January to the present.) A pair of sleeveless black sheaths, one with a day cut, and one for late day and later, could be a city wordrobes best summer kingpins. And one of the hats shading these ought to be white- both in paris and America. The black and white formula ka as magic now as it is used to be basic. Row on row of black dress choices will be coming up ahead. The new sunmer res: next most important item, and a crackling good one it is - its the most brilliant new way you could look cool in the summer weather. The smartest woman reading this list will want at least one red dress thats quite bare in cut ( assuming she had the figure for it), perhaps with a new high line to the waist (and this good flash of fashion won’t cost her a penny) . For reds a wonderful thing for morale as well as for smartness - and it’s fresh, clear look is it be found now in any number of new forms, from slender linen town suits and strict little city sheaths to breezing flame chiffon for the big summer parties. For the woman wholl be doing a good bit of traveling. There’s a terrific red day length dinner dress doing the rounds.
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The 50’s saw a trend of black and
white. Not only did they give a thin slender look but also became an essential of dinner and night outings. With materials such as Irish linen, black silk and crepe taking over. Paired with a variety of hats and caps this became the look of the season. This look could be bought for anything between $50 to $90. Black satin bows were also seen on these dresses which made the fit look even more chick, slender and well fitted
You can never really truely go wrong with Black.
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Time shall come and time shall go, what shall remai is white
Pale summer essentials included kni-
tred cotton costumes and sheath blouses. Silk blouses in neutral colours also started doing the rounds. The sleeveless string beige cardicans were also paired with slim skirts. White whipcord with white leather collars with closely dotted cotton were also widely seen
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Six summer essentials starting with a new blousing line.
The new bloused line in a city
suit of pewter- grey. Hope skillman cotton with a satiny stripe; its a cut that makes its self nicely comfortable around the waist. Platter hat with a ruffels of beige organdie. With black opera pumps by Sabrina Near right, above sheer black cotton sheaths with the plus of a white sichel linen bowtied bolero which can be applied to sheaths . The liquid look, the latest thing in slenderness, here in green silk chiffon with a covered cut that makes it look make sense any hours after noontime.
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Directly rigjt: blouse line that’s top news for summer, here accomplished by a drawt shirt of Everglaze knitted cotton nh Alamac. This in, brown, black and white stripes. The higher summer waist- starting point of thr printed black and white pipue bolero, tied to black with a black velvet ribbon. The waist belongs to a black textured cotton sleath. For the something red category, this easyskirted dress of scarlet wamautta . A blaze coolness with a bodice thats a close thing when it comes to fit.
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Where Paris differs 16 collection looks: 1955 Empire Evening dress by Heim. Made if silk, wool and acrilian with a cherry ribbonAll white in Orlon satin..
Skirt curled Nice line for a pretty back; Its both scooped and ( separately) bowed . All white in Orlon satin.
Obi panel From Nina Ricci, a black satin dress with a panel looped, then flattened wearable obi.
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Small suit, big fur Patou’s black suit with a bito of braid
New suit- height Suit heightened by long jacket, high waist and high bow Two- layered cape Henim’s capecoat, with flared skirt
Double obi This is more of Dior’s oriental fashionmade of black wool with a deep V neck
Chinoiserie Mandarin coat with slip sheath dress
New side look Young slender, casual; side- buttoned wool separates with vlack suede facing
Tweed cape coat Givenchy’s all inclusive beige coat
Fur all around Nina Ricci’s bulk above slimness. A fur collared navy – blue suit bordered with velvettened wearable obi.
Back blousing Airy blousing: adding great elegance to Givenchy’s slender suits. Paired with double belt
Fur faced Asymmetrical, fur- bearing beige coat by Givenchy
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Balenciaga bulk: overcapes Right: Ripe for fashion success, the cape soft new over slim shoulders. Balenciaga, a past master of capes, countines them . Fringing wide over a straight suit. (below)
Givenchy bulk: cape sleeves Left: another form of bulk over slenderness this wrapped coat of deep black wool fleece
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Golden Age
Photographed byirvining penn in 1951
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of Couture
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This page : The collections o balenciaga were ofter cut away from the body in a line that abstracted the curves of the female form. “Ballon� dress and cape in black opposite page : First real architects of fashion, Balenciaga never strayed from his dedication of clean lines . This slim fitted dress is constructed with cocoa- colored muslin petals
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Haute Couture The houses are, today, one-word icons: Dior. Balenciaga. Givenchy. But during the 1950s, such fashion labels were helmed by the very men and women who lent them their names and were still being built into the titans they are now. Together, the top group of designers in the 1950s gave new life to haute couture during the years that followed Europe’s darkest, war-torn hours. In honor of vogues ode to the decade the magazine celebrates—we showcase the decade’s most influential designers of haute couture.
loose cut sleeves with a bare sholder bodice and beautiful bell skirt
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Mermaid Dress Mermaid dress , draped tires not unline the scales of mermaid, just short at the ankle bone.
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Then, Now and Always will be Its
Dior Darling!
On February 12, 1947, a new couturier named Christian Dior presented his first show to the press. In an elegant salon on the Avenue Montaigne, a model sauntered out wearing a calf-grazing skirt made with 20 yards of black wool. A cream shantung jacket (like most of Dior’s designs, it came with a name, Bar) had a tightly nipped waist that flared into a regal peplum. In a postwar world still under continued rationing, the ensemble was downright shocking. But to a legion of women used to boxy suits and drab skirts, Dior’s ultra-feminine styles were a blissful reminder of better days—and the promise of a return to luxury. “You waved your wand and suddenly I was young and hopeful again,” one ardent fan wrote Monsieur Dior. “I love you.” Envisioning a globe peopled with customers clad in head-to-toe Dior, the designer set about building an empire of elegance, establishing outposts in New York, London, and Caracas. Delman designer Roger Vivier created shoes as splendid as the outfits. Vibrant lipstick and perfume—Miss Dior was the first, followed by Diorama and eventually Diorissimo—completed the Dior woman’s toilette. The master merchandiser also recognized the power of personality, becoming a bit of a showman in the press. He penned his memoirs—none too prematurely, it would turn out. In 1957, Dior suffered a heart attack and died at age 52.
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Dior's studio
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“She who leaves a trail of fur is never forgotten� By the 1950s, most film stars were spotted wearing luxury furs in movies and in their private lives. While the price of fur began to climb, designers also began creating more casual looks with fur. Fur coats became shorter, and it was acceptable to wear furs during the daytime. By the end of the decade , fur was more affordable than ever, and designers even began crafting faux fur coats and accessories.
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doir truiute
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THE MIDCENTUARY
MAN Men’s 1950s suits are classics in the world of men’s vintage fashion. Loose and plain in shape and cut they were made unique by the love of textured fabrics- wool, tweed, flannel, and corduroy as well as patterns – big checks and plaid. For most of the decade, pants were pleated with wide legs and a tapered ankle. By the end of the decade, men’s 50s suits were moving into the skinny tailored fit style. More then two piece suits, sport coats were all the rage in men’s 1950s fashion. Mixed with light and dark pants the combinations were endless. Men’s 1950s dress pants were classic high waisted pleated pants with a sharp center crease. They fit wider than today’s skinny fit trousers but by the end of the decade, they were moving in that direction. They also featured a high waist up to the belly button. Popular colors were medium blue, chocolate brown, grey, and tan. Casual men’s 1950s trousers came in teal, maroon, light blue and rust. Textured fabrics were a big deal in the 1950s. Corduroy was common in fall and winter. Tweed, linen, nubby wool, and brushed cotton were also trendy year-round. Denim jeans continued to be high waist, wide leg, with rolled cuffs in dark denim (no fading, rips or decorative pockets!) Levi’s still makes original pairs as well as brands reproducing denim blue jeans (Dungarees) for Rockabilly greasers.
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1950s men’s shoes include black and white saddle shoes, two toned wingtip oxfords, chukka boots, Winkelpickers, penny loafers, creepers, Nubuck oxfords, and Elvis’s blue suede shoes. 1950s men’s boot included Chelsea boots, engineer boots / greaser boots, cowboy boots and classic lace up boots. Both casual shoes, sports sneakers (Converse) and dress shoes were part of every man’s fifties fashion. The black leather bomber jacket became a symbol of 1950s greasers when the movie Grease was released. It was popular with rebels and with rockabilly men today, however, it was not the most common style of 50s jacket. That style goes to the gaberdine jacket which was a lightweight Harrington or bomber jacket with ribbed cuffs, bottom band, and a wide flat collar. In the early 50s it was the belted bush jacket, safari coat and plaid mackinaw style that every man was wearing. Teens wore two-tone letterman jackets to show off school pride. Learn about casual men’s jackets here. Other short jackets include suede or leather bomber jacket, leather motorcycle jackets, and the shirt jacket. Long coats for heavy winters were still worn but now they were shorter to just at the knee. Bold patterns and textured wools gave me unique vintage style. Double breasted raincoats were a lighter overcoat option (think Singing in the Rain.) Learn about 1950s mens overcoats here. Vogue September 1959 87
HIGHLIGHTING THE 50'S
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Biblography • https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/1950s-hairstyles/ • https://glamourdaze.com/history-of-makeup/1950s • https://glamourdaze.com/2012/10/mascara-maybel-wil liams-and-the-maybelline-story.html • https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/womens-1950s-pants-history • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_lJ_Uu6I_0&t=192s • https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vox • https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/1950s-fashion-icons-fiftiesstyle-moments-in-pictures-81397 • https://shibboleth-sp.prod.proquest.com/Shibboleth.sso/DS?SA MLDS=1&target=https%3A%2F%2Fshibboleth-sp.prod.proquest.com%2FONE_SEARCH&entityID=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nift.ac.in%2Fopena
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