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Cardigan This style has: o Front and back dart pleats o Waistband with belt loops o Double-breasted front facing o Short raglan sleeves with cuff

Fit information o Finished length of 90cm can be adjusted as desired o 8cm-wide waistband o Relaxed fit o Collar (from Military Jacket style)

Recommended fabrics Tricot fabrics only! o Jersey o Elastane/wool knits o Sweater knits

Style Variant Barn Jacket becomes Cardigan

Select model Open My Label software and open the desired model in the Model Drawer.

Select style In the Style Drawer, under the ‘Jackets’ tab, select the ‘Barn Jacket’ style o Open Barn Jacket o Increase base of neck in the Style Properties to 47 cm o Increase finished length to 90cm Stitch variant via stitch placement Detailed instructions for this can be found in the Appendix.

Sleeve with cuff First draw a vertical line from the end point of the shoulder dart up to the sleeve hem.

Next, draw a horizontal line from underarm point to underarm point to yield as accurate a 90-degree angle as possible.

Now draw three further parallel lines for the sleeve cuff. The middle of the three lines is located on the midpoint between hem and underarm. The distance between the three lines depends on the desired sleeve width – here, approx. 8 cm.

Back First, mark the centre-back with a vertical line. Next, draw in two parallel horizontal lines approx. 3cm above and 5cm below the waistline, respectively.

For a better fit, round off the lines slightly upwards towards the side seam.

For the pleats at the top and bottom edges of the waistband, make two markings in each case, both about 5cm apart. These markings should lie approx. at the midpoint of the waistband.

Front Draw in the waistband on the front as you did on the back. For this, it is helpful to position the front and back sections next to each other.

Print out pattern pieces Position, save and print out pattern pieces.

For the cardigan, only the front and back section, sleeve and front facing are necessary.

The remaining pattern pieces can be placed on the half of the back section not required in order to minimise paper consumption.

‘Work table’

Print preview

Collar The original Barn Jacket collar is not particularly suited to the Cardigan, so the ‘Military Jacket’ collar is used.

The collar can be printed out separately in DIN A4.

In the Style Drawer, under the ‘Jackets’ tab, select the 'Military Jacket'. o In the same model, open ‘Military Jacket’ o Increase base of neck in the Style Properties to 47cm. o Position collar so as to save space and print out separately (‘Print Selection’).

Cut out pattern pieces and make alterations by hand Tip: If you are constructing the Cardigan with an overlocker, the seam allowance on all pattern pieces can be reduced to 1 cm.

After printing out the pieces, check all new cutting and marking lines and correct them if necessary.

Back Cut back section in half at the centre-back. Cut off waistband, and re-label pattern pieces as follows: o Top back o Bottom back o Back waistband

1 x to fabric fold 1 x to fabric fold 1 x to fabric fold

Front Glue in an additional 8cm-wide overlay strip on the front, on the front-edge line near the seam allowance. Adjust the waistline, neckline and hemline via the overlay.

Now cut out the new front pattern pieces. The waistband is cut off all the way through.

Re-label the pattern pieces and complete markings where necessary. o Top front 2 x o Bottom front 2 x o Waistband 2 x

Back

Front

Back waistband Owing to the pleats in the top- and bottom-back sections, the circumference of the waistband must be reduced by the pleat depth, by 2.5cm per pleat.

Divide waistband of back section into thirds and mark in a vertical line on each section.

Calculate 2.5cm per pleat. Mark in a further vertical line (1.25cm) to the left and right of the lines and glue these two lines one on top of the other. The waistband is now 5cm narrower. Adjust the waistband shape. The centre-back is cut out along the foldline.

Check the pleat markings on the waistband and correct if necessary.

Back waistband: mark in pleat depth and fold together Front waistband Glue together front waistband as per the back waistbandaround, reducing it by the 5cm pleat depth. Check pleat markings and complete if necessary. Adjust waistband shape.

Facing An identical paper strip to the one on the front section is glued to the facing. The facing remains together as a whole pattern piece. Adjust neckline as per the front section.

Complete labelling and markings and add seam allowances. To check, place facing on the front section; the neckline must match.

Sleeve Cut out sleeve and cut along the new vertical line. Label the new pattern pieces. o Sleeve front o Sleeve back

Collar Widen the collar by hand to 8cm. Complete labels, markings and seam allowances.

Before cutting out, check the fit of the redesigned pattern pieces once more.

Seam allowances o Reduce all seam allowances to 1cm. o Add 1 cm to waistband edge of both top- and bottom back sections. o Add 1 cm to waistband edge of both top- and bottom front sections. o Add 1 cm to top and bottom edge of both front- and back waistbands. o Add 1 cm to the centre dividing line of the sleeve in each case, as well as 2cm hem allowance.

Example:

Fabric requirement Fabric key

Lining, right Fabric, right Fabric, wrong side side side Symbols and markings key CF CB B9 Centre Front

Centre Back

Sheet numbering

Lining, wrong side

Interfacing

Reference points – help in combining the individual sheets

Grain

Marking points Pleating in Button Marking Marking of dart ends on back marking direction of points on (1cm before the dart sections arrow front sections tip) The figure shows one way of laying out the pattern pieces on a length of folded fabric.

Since the pattern pieces are created according to your own measurements and personal preferences, they may differ in size and shape from those of the sample arrangement.

Fabric, 140cm wide, folded

Materials and miscellaneous o o o o

Transparent stay tape for holding seams in place Leather belt Overlocker Coverstitch machine

Tip: With the Bernina elasticator (a special serger presser-foot), it’s easy to insert the stay tape into all the seams.

Cutting out o o o o o o o o o o o

1 x bottom back to fabric fold 1 x top back to fabric fold 2 x top front 2 x bottom front 1 x back waistband to fabric fold 2 x front waistband 2 x front facing 2 x sleeve front 2 x sleeve back 2 x collar to fabric fold Ribbon for belt loops, 88 cm x 5cm

Preparation Arrange pattern pieces on fabric as per the cutting-layout illustration. First cut out pieces, then transfer all markings to the fabric. With open-work (i.e. loosely knit or lacy) knitted fabrics, it may be necessary to use basting thread for marking.

Tip: If you don’t have an overlocker or an overlock stitch on your sewing machine, use a narrow, elastic zigzag stitch.

Sewing instructions Preparation: If using open-work knitted fabrics, neaten the pattern pieces beforehand.

Belt loops Cut out belt loops in the required length (depending on the belt, approx. 11cm). Neaten long edges of belt loops with the overlocker. Fold belt loops into thirds so that the long edges overlap and oversew in the centre with the coverstitch machine.

Tip: If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, the hems can be sewn with a double needle and your sewing machine.

Front: Place the pleats in the bottom-front sections on top of one another as per the markings and stitch in place. The pleats open towards the side seam. Position belt loops right sides together near the pleats and pin or baste on.

Pin waistband to bottom section as per the markings and sew together.

Turn under belt loops and stitch to waistband.

Place the pleats in the top-front section on top of one another as per the markings and stitch in place. Here too, the pleats open towards the side seam. Stitch top-front section to waistband as per the markings.

Back: Construct pleats and waistband of garment back as for the front, and sew together.

Sleeve: With right sides facing, sew together centre seam of the sleeve back and -front.

Turn under sleeve hem and hem with the coverstitch machine.

Join sleeve front with garment front as per the markings; pin and sew together.

Join sleeve back with garment back as per the markings; pin and sew together.

Collar Sew collar with right sides facing along the outside edge.

Turn collar right-side-out; pin to jacket neckline as per markings and stitch.

Facing Neaten outside edges and shoulder of facing.

With right sides facing, pin facings to front edges of jacket all the way up to the shoulder, as per the markings.

Sew together facing and collar in a single operation.

Fix the shoulder of the facing in the centre seam of the raglan sleeve with a few stitches to hold it in place.

Sleeve cuff Turn sleeve up 8cm and pin or baste cuff in place in the seam allowance.

Side seam: With right sides facing, place front and back of garment together along the side seams and close in a single operation via the sleeve (this automatically catches the cuff in between). Bartack thread ends.

Folded-back facing With right sides together, fold back facing onto the front section at the hem.

Stitch down facing in the hem edge and turn right-side-out.

Hem Fold and iron hem under. Then secure in hem’s width with machine basting stitch or hand-basting. Hem along the basting stitch with the coverstitch machine. Secure coverstitch.

Closure edge / finishing the garment Iron under front edge of closure and straightstitch in desired width from the edge.

The facing can also be held in place with just a few stitches at the waistband and on the raglan seams.

If necessary, secure cuff in the centre seam of the sleeve with a few hand-stitches.

Further detailed information can be found in your my Label program under Help> Sewing techniques. This option offers detailed instructions on the proper way to sew belt loops, collars, pockets, linings and much more. It also deals with basic sewing techniques for beginners.