http://www.versace.com/
Volume 4 / Issue II 2015
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FRONT COVER
BACK COVER
“[The Art of Being] A Well Dressed Wife”
“Anachronism”
Photography: Greg Alexander Art Director: Sébastien Vienne Featuring Josephine Jobert
Photography: Greg Alexander for Vigoré! Art Director: Sébastien Vienne Story begins on pg. 198
Story begins on pg. 16
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12 VIGORE!’S REBIRTH!
54 BEAUTY EXPERT CARINE LARCHET
Vigoré!’s ‘rebirth issue’ is celebrated with a new and exciting partnership of talented Greg Alexander directly from Paris, France. Get ready for not only an entire ‘make-over’ for Vigore! but a stronger voice in fashion, art and music!
For over 15 years, Carine has been a celebrity makeup artist for french TV. Who’s her focus this month? Read on to get her tips!
58 IN FASHION WITH WHISKEY JACKSON 18 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH JOSÉPHINE JOBERT Originally born in Paris, Joséphine moved to Montreal at the age of 12 where she learned acting, dancing and singing, eventually returning to France to pursue an acting career. Read on to discover the real Joséphine Jorbert.
38 FOCUS DESIGNER: PATUNA COUTURE
Pg. 144
Patuna, whose last collection’s mood was ‘strong women with soft, sensual side’ is one of the most celebrated designers in luxury fashion for her everlasting passion of art and dedication to creativity. Read on to find out why!
All the fashion news fit to print from all of us “girls with an attitude”, with uncles with the purple Zoot Suits with the reet pleat, going from “geekdom to chic'dom”, and all clothing racks in between.
62 IN THE EYES OF ÉLÉONORE Éléonore Boccara puts focus on five couture designer’s from China [Lan Yu], Mexico [Antonio Ortega], Peru [Alexandre Delima], Spain [Alfredo Villalba] and Thailand [Busardi].
Pg. 210
40 SHOPPING A few little treasures we found along the way... go ahead and indulge yourself... you deserve it!
PAGE 44: ”Oh My Gold”
Volume V, Issue 1I 2015
FOUNDER Judi Lynn Lake
PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Greg Alexander e: greg@@vigore-mag.com
FROM THE PUBLISHER’S
Judi Lynn Lake e: judi@vigore-mag.com
US CREATIVE DIRECTOR Rich Jackson
MUSIC EDITOR Rob Carroll
ART DIRECTOR & FASHION EDITOR Sébastien Vienne
BEAUTY EDITOR
Carine Larchet
BEAUTY ASSISTANT Gaëlle Bertoletti
CELEBRITIES & ART
Éléonore Boccara
EDITORIAL MANAGER Audrey Ibanez
CONTRIBUTOR’S FOR THIS ISSUE Andrew Fearman Whiskey Jackson Linda Jamison Signe Vilstrup
ADVERTISING Advertising: advertising@vigore-mag.com General inquiries: info@vigore-mag.com Phone: USA: 1.772.249.0859 EUROPE: +33 6 85 29 28 69 Follow us on Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/VigoreMagazine Twitter: @VigoreMagazine Instagram: https://instagram.com/Vigoremagazine/ 6 VIGOR E! ‘I Paris Fashion Week
Publisher’s, Judi Lake and Greg Alexander
THE “REBIRTH” ISSUE [Judi Lake] Four years ago, in the summer of 2011, Vigoré! Magazine was introduced to the world. An artist myself, I had no idea nor plan for the magazine's direction and decided to 'allow' it to choose it's own path. Within the first 10 minutes of being published, the mere '10 likes' on facebook grew to an immediate 2500 and has been growing ever since. Throughout the years, there have been countless highs and lows but, as the saying goes, Vigoré! indeed 'kept on trucking'. Our popularity grew from the thousands into the millions with a steady worldwide readership that kept me both humble and in awe…. Though it was I that was credited, I actually had nothing to do with Vigoré!'s growth - it was 'the magazine'… something that's bigger than myself or than anyone. Four years later, I find her 'maturing' into 'the woman she is meant to be'… Undoubtedly, Vigoré! has chosen 'to major in fashion' and minor in art and music …. I set her 'free' and thus emerged the new partnership from Paris, Mr. Greg Alexander – an extraordinarily talented man who 'understands'… The merge makes complete sense as my own roots stem from Europe and Greg brings to Vigoré! a hand she must hold. I thank all for your steady loyalty mixed with sometimes caring criticism. Our next portion of this journey proves to not only be exciting but necessary… Vigoré! has finally outgrew her 'awkward stage' and has come to be who she is, and, I, as the creator, am proud to join partnership with my new, talented Parisian team which also includes the talent of Sébastien Vienne, Carine Larchet, Gaëlle Bertoletti, Eléonore Boccara and Audrey Ibanez! Viva la Vigoré! and much thanks to all of you… without you, Vigoré! would seize to be… Il y a quatre ans, l'été 2011, naquit le magazine Vigoré! Parce que je suis artiste, je n'avais aucune idée préconçue ni même un plan d'attaque, et j'ai donc décidé qu'« elle » choisisse par elle-même son chemin (et je dis « elle » car Vigoré! c'est la force !). En quelques minutes, les « likes » sur Facebook se sont multipliés pour atteindre les 2500 et n'ont cessé de croître depuis. En quatre ans, il y eut bien sûr des hauts et des bas, mais elle a tenu le coup. Notre popularité a grandi, passant de centaines à des milliers de lecteurs à travers le monde ce qui m'a tenue autant dans l'humilité que dans l'appréhension… même si cela fut porté à mon crédit, je sentis que je n'avais rien à voir avec sa croissance… C'était « le magazine », quelque chose qui nous dépasse tous. Quatre ans après, je la trouve « mature » telle la femme qu'elle devait devenir. Sans aucun doute elle a décidé d'exceller en mode, délaissant quelque peu l'art et la musique. Je l'ai laissée libre… Puis est apparu un nouveau partenaire
en la personne de Greg Alexander, quelqu'un d'extrêmement talentueux, quelqu'un qui « comprend ». La fusion a été logique, d'autant que je suis également Européenne. Je tiens à tous vous remercier pour votre loyauté sans faille, et parfois aussi pour vos nécessaires critiques. Notre prochaine partie de l'aventure promet d'être autant excitante qu'inéluctable… Vigoré! est enfin parvenue à devenir ce qu'elle devait être, et moi, en tant que sa créatrice, je suis fière de ma nouvelle équipe parisienne ! Viva la Vigoré! Et un immense merci à tous… Sans vous, Vigoré! ne serait pas. Judi Lake Editrice & Rédactrice en chef *** [Greg Alexander] “What I like about photographs is that they capture a moment that's gone forever, impossible to reproduce” says Karl Lagerfeld, and I agree! - this is exactly what my vision is for Vigoré ! Magazine. For each issue, there is to be captured a haven of aestheticism to share with you! Together, Vigore!'s partnership both love heritage mixed with avant-garde; we love found designers as much as big brands; we love to mix haute couture with new wave newbies. And because fashion is a part of the world is nothing without art, music and travel we want to mix all these influences and bring Europe to USA and USA to Europe! For the “Rebirth” issue, the inspirations were all over the world, from the NY's MOMA 'with the mystical Björk', to the Paris "Philarmonie" with the incredible David Bowie. Through our pages, you will journey to Geneva to discover the new extravagant version of “The Nutcracker” designed by the haute couture designers, Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov from "On Aura Tout Vu”! And let's not forget our stunning cover girl, actress Joséphine Jobert. The entire Paris team fis delighted to welcome you into the world of Vigoré! Please don't hesitate to write to us; we are happy to share ideas with all of you! We are not perfect–perfection is boring–we are you!: black, white, Asian, African, men, women, straight, gay, but HAPPY… very happy! And remember that all this would not happen without my wonderful partner, Judi Lake, who decided a few years ago to create Vigoré! – a place for artists to meet and share! Ce que j'aime dans une photo c'est qu'elle capture un moment qui s'en est allé pour toujours et qu'il est possible de reproduire à nouveau » (Karl Lagerfeld). Je suis d'accord avec lui ! C'est exactement ma vision pour Vigoré! magazine.
Notre souhait pour chaque numéro sera de capturer un havre d'esthétisme et de le partager avec vous ! Parce que l'avant-garde est indissociable du passé, nous aimons que les grandes marques côtoient les jeunes créateurs, nous aimons mélanger la haute couture avec la nouvelle vague. Et parce que la mode est une partie du monde, mais qu'elle n'est rien sans l'art, la musique ou les voyages, nous voulons mêler toutes ces influences et emmener l'Europe aux USA , et les USA en Europe ! Pour notre numéro « Rebirth » (Renaissance), les inspirations sont venues de tous les coins du monde ; du MOMA de New York avec la mystique Björk, à la Philharmonie de Paris avec l'incroyable David Bowie. Au fil de nos pages, vous voyagerez à Genève pour découvrir la nouvelle version extravagante de « Casse-Noisette » créée par les hauts couturiers Livia Stoianova et Yassen Samouilov de la Maison « On Aura Tout Vu ». Sans oublier notre éblouissante cover girl, la comédienne Joséphine Jobert… Toute l'équipe parisienne est ravie de vous accueillir dans le monde de Vigoré! N'hésitez pas à nous écrire, nous serons ravis de partager des idées avec vous ! Nous ne sommes pas parfaits - la perfection est ennuyeuse - nous sommes vous ! : blacks, blancs, asiatiques, africains, hommes, femmes, hétéros, homos, mais HEUREUX… très heureux ! Et n'oublions pas que tout cela ne serait jamais arrivé sans la merveilleuse Judi Lake, qui a décidé quelques années auparavant, de créer Vigoré!- un espace d'échange et de rencontre pour les artistes ! Enjoy! Greg Alexander Editeur & Rédacteur en chef
Advertise using Vigore!’s reasonable ad rates and instantly reach millions of people worldwide. FOR MORE INFORMATION EMAI: Advertising: advertising@vigore-mag.com General inquiries: info@vigore-mag.com or call directly at: [USA] (772) 249.0859 / [Europe] + 33 6 85 29 28 69
Volume 4 / Issue II 2015
74 PARIS FASHION WEEK CATWALK REPORT [HAUTE COUTURE] Antonio Ortega, Alexandre Delima, Ilja, Julien Fournié, Lan Yu, Ralph And Russo, Serkan Cura, Busardi, Tony Ward, Versace, Zuhair Murad and behind the scene peaks!
102 “BLACK ORCHIDÉE” FALL/WINTER 2015-2016 COLLECTION French designer Christophe Guillarmé plays with a vintage spirit mixed with Old Hollywood and Dolce Vita glamour.
126 PARIS FASHION WEEK CATWALK REPORT [READYWEAR] Bernard Chandran, Yde, Rahul Mishra, Amaya Arzuaga, Manish Arora, Allude, Anne Sofie Madsen
142 VIGORE!’S NEW ART SECTION! The inspirations for Vigore!’s new art section come from all over the world, from the NY's MOMA 'with the mystical Björk', to the Paris “Philarmonie" with the incredible David Bowie. Through our pages, you will journey to Geneva to discover the new extravagant version of “The Nutcracker” designed by the haute couture designers, Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov from "On Aura Tout Vu”, Australia with artist, Nikoline Liv Andersen and much more!
210 AURELIEN GIORGINO IS ….MISTER FRANCE 2015 Aurelien Giorgino is ….Mister France 2015 ... Who is Aurelien Giogino? Read on to discover ‘Mister France’ 2015!
214 THE HIDDEN PART OF LIFE PAGE 74: ”Tony Ward: PFW Catwalk Report”
Here, men do not come in search of the changing winds of fashion but to rediscover the spirit of couture that discloses its identity as closely as possible.... Confused? Then read on and... enjoy!
224 MEN IN TUXEDOS What does a Chinese action hero, an agent of her majesty’s secret service, and a well intentioned penguin have in common? Read on to find out!
228 BEAR(D) And what walked off the runways of Yohji-Yamamoto Mens SpringSummer 2015 Paris showcase? You have to read to find out!
240 MEN’S PFW CATWALK REPORT Julius, Nicomede, Walter Van Bierendonck, Songzio and S. Samson!
W
hat is it about change that has just as many people loathing it as it does with those who choose to embrace it? Is it the fear of the unknown, the road not travelled? Is it the need to be able to compete, to keep up? Or is it simply to be able to live better? And once that decision is settled upon what exactly is it that is next? What affects what? Who affects whom? Is it seasonal? Reasonable? Or to quote Moonlighting's David Addison “are we rushing to a show with a horn that wouldn't blow?” Is the clock ticking or is the hourglass filling up, and therefore running out of time streaming towards an inevitable deadline. What is next? And just how do you get there? I mean exactly. How do you get there? But before you decide exactly where it is you want to get, you really need an end result. There needs to be a reason for a change, a rebirth if you will. When change is brought into anyone's life be it personal or professional it is usually almost always because in the end, an objective is needed to be addressed and ultimately met. But the ultimate question is how to go about reaching this objective. As I ponder that I am reminded of the Pilgrims that left English rule for the “New World”. They had an objective. The colonists of the 13 original states in America had an objective: “life liberty and the pursuit of happiness”, and “to live in the land of the free and the home of the brave.” There's something about being born into the land of the free and the home of the brave that really makes me feel proud. You go to New York harbor and there is a statue of a woman holding a fiery torch with a tablet asking immigrants to “bring me you tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to be free” godda love that Emma Lazarus. I have to believe that during her lifetime even Emma had to make some form of change as well.
turn page Left: From “Only Angels Have Wings” [editorial begins on page 148] featuring Artist: Nikoline Liv Andersen Photography by Signe Vilstrup
I love fashion and some would give a strong argument that I may even live for it. I say why not, after all what's not to like about seeing creative entities the world over showing new designs every four months. It gives the feel of a rush when seeing a monarch butterfly break free of its cocoon and ultimately flies away. Well it is exactly that way and every four months too. And it is worldwide and ah inspiring, it can change lives, and bring about hope and promise. It is aware of and it unto itself promotes awareness for causes the whole world over. And with the advent of today's social media you the individual are ultimately exposed to it whether knowingly or not, so it's no longer just the looking at of pictures and turning the pages with our thumb and index finger. It's the advent of the ever present cellular devices that let your fingers do the walking across dial pads, touching apps that allow you to actually watch a Chanel showcase live even before the designs ever hit the magazines and store racks. It is a video of John Galliano going viral the world over in a matter of minutes that called for his immediate ouster from the House of Dior. And I defended him until I saw the video. Five years later he is all the rage at London's Men's Fashion Week being called out again this time by a young leggings designer who saw the show streamed live via social media outlets. And let's not forget the terrible bombing atrocities in Paris that turned a WHOLE WORLD into defiant French citizens and patriots against terrorism. Vive' la France! And now we have Sir Elton John whose mighty music silently inspired me as a young boy that was practically spoon fed from the womb on a steady diet of R&B soul music, boldly telling people to boycott Dolce & Gabbana. “The Bitch is back, stone cold sober as a matter of fact!” We miss you Bernie Taupin.
The iconic Grace Jones circa 1970s.
It would seem that in today's world that if you have an opinion you had better be ready to defend it because with the advent of electronic media you will most likely be called on it. As in “ask me anything, my life is an open book I'll discuss anything except me and the president.” Is that change, a rebirth, or just the essential human need to communicate to be heard, and least of all to matter? But will change actually make you and what you ultimately stand for matter, and if so matter to whom? It seems that would be determined by the objective you are striving for. As for me personally, I kinda' always wanted to be a do-gooder. “And so once again Harry the Hawk turns the tables on his captors! Tune in again next week boys and girls for another thrilling episode of Harry the Hawk in “The midget gets the chair, or
14 VIGORÉ!‘ I Vol 4 / Issue II
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And speaking of ‘change’ comes a brand new, refreshing Vigoré! Magazine – a more defined voice; our rebirth joined with the exciting partnership of talented Greg Alexander in our second office located in the heart of Paris... it’s time... Get ready for not only an entire ‘make-over’ for Vigore! but a stronger voice in fashion, art and music! Small fry!” And now back to our regularly scheduled column (and all things fashion). Sorry, I was back in the early 70s where the trends were all peace signs, cowboy fringe, Joey Heatherton and all things Twiggy, thanks to the ever changing nod to nostalgia we are literally one stitch away from bellbottoms bottoms again. And more colorful than NBC TV's Peacock complete with all of the “You bet your sweet Bippy's and “Sock-it-to-me! Sock-it-to-me's!” that we can stand, the fabulous Judy Carne and Goldie Hawn notwithstanding. Oh yes, it is indeed time for another spring/summer influx of fashions delving into the 1970s era complete with bold faced prints, jumpsuits, bellbottoms, color blocked heels and afros on the WHITE models? Ha! Where songs like “Call Me Maybe” are replaced with “Groove Me Baby”, and musical artists with legal eagles in tow, charge into court to validate their blatant copying of revered 70s soul icons like Marvin Gaye's music truly “Makes me Wanna Holler”, all the while asking “What's Going On?” Talk about your Blurred Lines! You got yours I want mine and that's the organic genius of the so-called street fashion rage, which was all but virtually unheard of 4 years ago. But now it's everywhere much like the pigeons on the palazzos in Roma, and Milano, in New York. This new phenenom/rebirth dare I say, is making personalities out of people who were just happy to have someone complement them while simply passing by. But that is the pure joy,
Eddie Redmayne.
excitement, fun mixed with utter anticipation that the fashion industry brings every four months of the year. And WHERE do all of the transgender communities fit into this? ANYWHERE THEY WANT TO because we are a part of them, and they are a part of us. Period! Shout outs to Golden Globes winner Jeffery Tambour and Oscar winner Eddie Redmayne for boldly raising awareness and championing the cause for understanding and inclusiveness of and for transgender communities with current roles the two have taken on. Rebirth? Maybe, but consider this, black and whites will always be in style as long as there is fashion Pantone match system be damned. And if I may steal a line from that gorgeous, gorgeous Taylor Swift “We never go out of style”. And we haven't even gotten to the dressing down politics of it all (and I do love a good buckle) but that's for another time, another season. All of these topics do however lead us to that ever evolving, ever eternal question in fashion (or is that life), which is…all together in unison………. “Can't we all just get along?” Nah. “HELL NO! NO!” For if we dared to where would our creativity be? Vive' la difference. Today we are all citizens of France.
Artist, writer and fashion photographer, Rich Jackson’s not only a guy in the know but also a guy always on the go. To contact him, email him at: jcksn_rch@yahoo.com VIGOR ‘E! I Vol 4 / Issue II
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From "A Foreign Frontier"
Photography by Andrew Fearman Photographic Assistant: Andrian Price Stylist: Ivanna Fontana Makeup: Teneille Sorgiovanni Hair: Linh Nguyen Model: Lucy Ross from Scene Model Management Location: Western Australia
Bliss Lau body chain from Behind the Monkey
THE MAKING OF THE WELL DRESSED WIFE
Dress: Zuhair Murad haute couture Ring: Jean Boggio
riginally born in Paris, Joséphine moved to Montreal at the age of 12 where she learned acting, dancing and singing, eventually returning to France to pursue an acting career. She comes from a family of artists. Her mother is Véronique Rouveyrollis, a photographer, musician, writer, performer and director and her father, Charles Jobert, is a director of photography. She is also cousin to Elsa Lunghini and Eva Green. She gained notoriety playing Amel in the popular youth show Saint-Ex, nos Années Pension in 2008, and enjoyed 15 weeks in the French pop charts with a song from the show, which Joséphine sang. Since then, she has continued her success playing long term character Alice Watson in Lightning which won the award for Best Youth Fiction Series at the TV Festival of La Rochelle and is one of France's most widely exported series. She then landed the part of Roxanne in the popular French soap opera, Sous le Soleil de Saint-Tropez (2013-2014). She also appeared in The Judge Is A Woman, Cut!, Paroles and will feature in the next series of Villa Kariybes. She joined the cast of Death In Paradise ( BBC One ) for the fourth and fifth series, which started in January 2015. «Death in Paradise» is present in more than 35 countries all over the world!
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Dress: Julien FourniĂŠ haute couture Bracelet: Jean Boggio Shoes: Konstantina Tzovolou Total look man: Smalto
Overall: Saint-Laurent vintage @DDS Belt and bracelet: Alexandre Delima couture Shoes: Konstantina Tzovolou Trousers: Smalto
“
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I was born in family where almost everyone is an artist. Actor, singer, musician, dancer, director, theatre teacher and then some. So, for me, it has always been obvious. My entire life has revolved around creativity....
VM: Who are you Joséphine Jobert? JJ: I am a simple girl who loves the world and enjoys life everyday. I was born in Paris in 1985 and years later moved to Montreal with my parents when I was twelve. I lived there for eight years and then came back to Paris when I was twenty. I have a real passion for traveling and love to discover the new places all over the world. As soon as I can, I book a flight and take off for a new unknown destination. I started acting when I was about sixteen years old. I love my job, my friends and my family and I feel blessed for all the good things that happen in my life every single day. My philosophy is to always stay positive and laugh as much as possible. What else?... I love chocolate, Sunday brunches, feeling the warm sun on my skin, singing and dancing. And many more things, the list is long and would probably not be very interesting! VM: Was it your dream to be an actress? JJ: Yes, for sure! It was even more than a dream. It was either that or nothing! But in a good way, of course. I was born in family where almost everyone is an artist. Actor, singer, musician, dancer, director, theatre teacher and then some. So, for me, it has always been obvious. My entire life has revolved around creativity, films, art, etc. I can't imagine living without it all. I guess that is the reason why I never asked myself the question what to do for a living. It was anchored deep within me since forever. VM: What was your «second choice» if not actress? JJ: Honestly, nothing. I truly have no idea. I never thought of it really. But now that mention it, let's see.
When I was a kid I was crazy about horses. And when I say crazy I mean crazy mad! My poor parents... each vacation destination had to have facilities for horse riding nearby so that I could go horse riding. I also had a huge collection of small figurines and books, all of horses of course. So, I guess if acting had gone south, I could have been a horse trainer for movies! VM: Tell us more about your character in «Death in Paradisez» JJ: Her name is Florence and I like her a lot! I think she rocks! She's a young police officer who has been promoted to a detective sergent. Her work is her priority and she is really good at it. She is very professionnal, smart, respectful and she is not scared of runing, jumping and fighting. (That's the part I like the most, when it gets to this kind of action. I feel a little like Lara Croft. I wish I could have more action scenes) Florence works with Humphrey (her boss). She has to take care of him all the time because he can be «absent minded». But she knows she has a lot to learn from him and she respects him greatly for the brilliant detective he is. She also has a great sense of humor and likes to party. I think I could be friends with her in real life. I'm really happy to « meet » her again for the next season of Death in Paradise. VM: Who are your favorite designers? JJ: I Ilove Saint-Laurent and Chanel, but I'm very fond of new brands. I discovered Patuna, a Georgian designer, who is very creative and managed to mix luxury with confort. I love Alexandre Delima and Julien Fournié too. Christophe Guillarmé is a good friend of mine and I like the dresses he creates. They are very glamorous and the thing I like is that all women can wear them, small, tall, skinny or round. This is a real big quality because he makes fashion and designs available for all types of women so that they can feel sexy, beautiful et desirable. I admire him for that. continued
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Coat: Kenzo vintage @DDS Shoes: Thierry Mugler vintage @DDS Trousers: Smalto
Dress: Saint-Laurent vintage @DDS Rings: Jean Boggio
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As far as I can remember, I have always seen my mother wearing bright red lipstick. Always. It took me a long time to do the same but now that I've tried, I put it on very often. I think it is classy and sexy....
VM: Are you a fashion addict? JJ: I am dessert addict, a sports addict, (I guess the second addiction exists because of the first one) a travel addict, a sea and sunshine addict but not really a fashion addict. I like to buy clothes, to be well dressed and to look good in a pretty dress, for example, but I am not crazy about new tendencies and I don't need to wear famous brands no matter what. I just buy what I ;like and the most important thing is to feel confortable. I spent most of the past few years shooting in hot countries like Guadeloupe or the Reunion Island so basically, my outfits consisted of shorts, swim suits, light summer dresses, t-shirts and tank tops. Not all very glamorous. I am also an Instagram addict and I spend a lot of time on fashion and blogger's accounts. I have discovered a lot of American, Hawaiian and Australian brands. I buy most of my clothes on Internet. So, to make a long story short, I'm more of a shopping addict rather than a fashion addict. VM: High heels or flat?
Is Venice romantic? I've never been there so I can't tell. But I think, every beautiful city can be romantic if you go there with someone you truly love. I've learned that traveling is not about the place you go to, but about who you go with. New York, which is a big city, very noisy, very energetic can be romantic if you seize the moment with the one you love. It is all about love! VM: The first thing you are looking in a man? JJ: His lips. I love fleshy lips. Hands are important too and eyes. No matter what color they are, they have to reflect a generous, beautiful and tender soul. I haven't always dated a man with all of the above, but today I have found my tender and fleshy lipped man. VM: Some beauty secrets for our readers? JJ: First of all, sleep. It is as old as the world itself. A good night's of sleep is the first step to beauty.
JJ: Without hesitation, FLAT!!! I just can't walk with heels. I tried, many times, for special occasions, when I had no other choice (I couldn't walk Cannes' Film Festival red carpet wearing sneakers, now could I.) It's always such a pain for me. I wonder how all those women do it? I admire them! VM:: Red or black?
No stress. I know it is easy to say but it is important to take some time for yourself for reading, dancing, meditating, swimming or whatever else it is that can get you to relax. You'll feel good in your head and body, and feeling confident is also a beauty secret. Personaly, I also use a lot of natural and organic cosmetic products.
JJ: Red lips and nails. As for the dress black. Basics. As far as I can remember, I have always seen my mother wearing bright red lipstick. Always. It took me a long time to do the same but now that I've tried, I put it on very often. I think it is classy and sexy. VM: Lipstick or gloss?
VM: What do you think about the place of woman in the movies? JJ: This is THE question. Are you sure you want me to talk about that? We won't have enough pages and space if I want to say everything I think.
JJ: Definitly lipstick. I really don't like gloss. Well, you see, it looks good for a photoshoot or on camera; but it is too sticky for me and I can't eat anything with it on my lips. There's always that nasty crumb that stays stuck and hangs out forever. You know what I mean. Yuck!
I'll try to sum it up.
VM: Lace or leather?
There are so many talented, charismatic, beautiful and moving actresses. How come we don't give them more importance in movies. It is also important for young ladies to see such roles portrayed so that they can identify with a positive female image.
JJ: Leather! Leather boots, leather jacket, leather perfecto and why not, leather gloves. One at the time, of course, cause I not really into the all leather look. As for the lace... Well that I'll keep as my little secret... VM: The most romantic city? JJ: Obviously, I should say Paris since that's where I live, honestly, this city is not that romantic to me. 32 VIGORÉ!‘ I Vol 4 / Issue II
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I think we don't see enough women in movies and that they don't have the chance to play really interesting and strong roles.
I saw a tv program where a woman talked about a project she had. She wanted to show movies to young ladies in a school but not any kind of movie. She had continued
Dress: Patuna couture Ring: Jean Boggio
Dress: Patuna couture Necklace: Jean Boggio
three criterias for her selection: 1: Is the main character a woman? 2: Is she interacting with another woman? 3: Are they interacting together about something other than a man? Guess what happened? Believe it or not, not a lot of movies fit this category. So we still have quite some progress to make! VM: Your dream role / part? JJ: Any role in a Tarantino or Robert Rodriguez movies. I've seen all their movies and I love their work. Ok, let's be honest, I am a fan. It would be a dream come true to have the inestimable chance to work with them. I love the fact that they're always creating original, strong, sexy, fighting, unreal, crazy female characters and that's the kind of role I'd love to play! Or a villain. But a real one. A real bad, nasty girl (I wanted to say b**ch but I guess I can't. Can I?) VM: The last movie you saw? JJ: At the cinema, the last movie I saw was Imitation Game. A piece of art. I haven't cried watching a movie since a long time. Benedict Cumberbatch is a genius, I learned a lot of things I didn't know about the heroic Alan turing. Usually, when I go the movies, I forget about what I just saw an hour after I've seen it. But not this time. A real good movie. A must see!
my gardian angel, my little budda. I couldn't live without her. She is the reason why I believe so much in life, the future, in love and in miracles. I never take a decision without asking her what she thinks about of it beforehand. My stepfather is also so very important to me. He has been like a father, a brother and a friend ever since I was a kid. I gave him such a hard times during my adolescence (poor him, he deserves a medal) but he has always loved me as if I was his own daughter and I am so grateful for that. I am so happy and blessed to have wonderful people in my life. My father and my grandmother. My cousin who lives in Montreal. I miss her so much, she is like a sister to me. My boyfriend is a precious gift and I love him so much. My friends who are so creative, funny and talented. I couldn't live, without all these people, they are my little world. VM: For who are you the most important person in his/her life? JJ: I've never really stopped to think about it... I would say my parents, I guess... My boyfriend, I wish! You know what? We should ask them. I'll make a list of people and we'll do a little survey. VM: Fashion is art?
A couple of days ago, I also watched the entire Tarantino and Rodriguez philmography. Again...Did I say I was a huge fan?
JJ: Yes, of course! You have to be an artist to create a dress or a coat. To draw it, think about the cloth you're going to use, the colors, the lengths, etc. You also have to make it original and fabulous. It is not an easy job. It is like creating a three-dimensional painting.
VM: The last book you bought?
VM: More is less?
JJ: It is hard to say, I buy books all the time. I have a big collections of novels, art books, recipy books (I like to cook a lot!), cinema, etc.
JJ: Best leave well enough alone; I am a perfectionnist so I always want to do more and better. It can be a quality as long as you also learn to be reasonable and that's what I always aim to do. Always do my best. But now, I know when it is time to stop and be proud of my work. Because, sometimes, yes, more is less.
My most recent buy is all the Rhonda Byrne and Anthony Robbins books. They are like a bible for me. It is all about positive vibes and thinking. You learn how to improve your life, how to make your dreams come true, to believe in yourself and the fact that nothing is impossible. And it works! It is like magic. I always carry one of these books in my bag. VM: Who is the most important person in your life? JJ: This is a very difficult question. So unfair to chose only one person. I just can't. I love my mother more than everything. She is my life, my inspiration, my motivation,
Contact Josephine Jobert at: https://www.facebook.com/JosephineJobertOfficiel/ Contact Joséphine Jobert at: Twitter: @josiecomedienne https://www.facebook.com/JosephineJobertOfficiel/ Sébastien Vienne is an Art & Film Director at Twitter: @josiecomedienne Méphistophélès Productions and Art Director at French To learn more visit his website at: http://www.sebastienvienne.com
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“
Dress: Tony Ward couture Gloves: Thierry Mugler vintage @DDS Jewelry: Jean Boggio
�
I think we don't see enough women in movies and that they don't have the chance to play really interesting and strong roles....
Patuna sees fashion as cultural roots that grow while designers water the roots.
FOCUS DESIGNER
The mood of Patuna's last collection: strong women with a soft, feminine, sensual side. Undoubtedly, Patuna is one of the most celebrated designers in luxury fashion for her everlasting passion for art and dedication to creativity. This talented designer started her career out of true love for her talents and skill, as she passionately wants to share her creations to the world. Her work has been displayed in various parts of the world winning the envious hearts of women that are looking to own Patuna's designs. Her collections offer a range of Prêt-à-Porter and Haute Couture. A frequent work of beads, crystals, Swarovski and precious stones can be seen in her 'signature' items. Patuna's designs frequently take their inspiration from an age of elegance - reflecting 1950's tailoring and silhouettes. She believes in creating designs that complement and enhance the feminine form. She likes to use sumptuous, flowing fabrics combined with a sophisticated approach to draping.
Written by Sébastien Vienne
A native of Georgia, Patuna spent her childhood studying and performing ballet, acting, folkloric dance, classical piano, painting, and pantomime. As a teenager, she served as host of two nationally broadcast TV programs in Georgia. At age 16, she entered the Tbilisi State Institute to study gynecology, and later switched her field of study to dentistry, graduating top of her class as a doctor of dental surgery. In 2008, Patuna made a career change from dentistry to her real passion; fashion. She is currently the owner and director of Patuna Fashion House. In recent years, Patuna studied sketching with a professional tutor on anatomy, dress/shoe design and portraiture, and earned a degree in fashion merchandising and design, sewing/dressmaking and cosmetology/aesthetics. Patuna uses her own technique she developed of applying Swarovski crystals to her designs. In December 2010, Patuna was honored as Georgian National Television's "Extraordinary Guest of the Year", and was named one of the Georgia's top 20 successful women in a nationally televised event. Patuna recently showed collections in Monaco, New York, Miami, Los Angeles and Paris.
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VM: Describe the "Georgian style" for us. PC: Georgian-style is wide-ranging. The famous Georgian folk culture runs very deep in the regions of the country. Our national dress for men for over a thousand years is the “Chokha”. City style is very European. People love high quality big brand names. You can see it all. VM: What is the difference between a Georgian woman and a European woman? PC: I consider Georgian women to be European woman. All European cultures have different traditions and I am coming from a traditional culture. All sophisticated, classy, elegant ladies around the world can speak one language. Respect for women is highly valued in Georgian culture. VM: Where do you find your inspirations? PC: My background from my childhood to today forms my inspirations. I was raised with an appreciation for the arts. I was a child-actress in theater and stage. As a teenager I was a television host of two nationally televised programs. Both programs were historical and educational. On the stage I wore handmade dresses designed by my mother. When I stopped writing versus, I started painting. When I stopped painting, I started designing. My muse was moving as I was developing as a person and as an artist. This is my background which greatly influences my work. When I work, I listen to music while feeling and talking with the textile. Through all of this, I am inspired. Usually the music I listen to while working and designing is soft instrumental jazz and vocal jazz.
VM: Define "elegance". PC: Elegance is a deep word for me with a lot of meaning; beauty, which comes with charm; glamour with gracefulness and refinement. VM: Does "style" have an age? PC: Every age can have style. The style must be appropriate for that age. VM: What is "attitude" in fashion? PC: Fashion is a dual with textile. Attitude of fashion is to be individual and recognizable. Have your signature style. VM: What is the last exhibition you saw? PC: David Bowie VM: What is the last music album you bought? PC: 'Chicago Jazz Orchestra' and 'The Best of Chris Botti'. I have a very beautiful music collection from Jazz to Classic and Soul. Most of the time I make individual songs and melodies in my play list from many different artists. VM: Is art a part of fashion? PC: Art is a big part of fashion. I express myself through my designs. I apply my imagination through the visual form of my creations. I work to create designs with beauty and emotional power. Contact Patuna Couture at: http://www.patunafashion.com
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The term Bag it can tend to take on quite a few meanings but mostly depending upon the logistical circumstances upon one who tends to utter it. So no, we are not at the grocery store checkout line, nor does it imply that we are on a big game hunt in the African Serengeti in an effort to bag the big one. So in the interest of all things fashion we've decided to bring clarity (along with a bit of brevity) to that subject.
B
is for “bag”, be they large, small lean or tall be
A
is for “attitude” which is one of the feelings we
it spring, summer, or the fallest of fall. They come in lots of fabrics, textures and colors. Our favorite in black one of the best of them all.
tend to get whether clutching, swinging or reaching into for (buying that last drink?) that perfect occasion new fashion statement accessory, which also comes in a variety of styles and colors white also being one of them.
G
is for putting the “Gee wiz” into the “Where-owhere did you get that bag girl?” That bag is out-a-site! Does it come in any other color? Maybe, but not tonight for tonight my black and white is just right! —Rich Jackson
What! What! What! is it about gold, that rather yellowish mineral from the earth that has men and women everywhere in such a reflective mood? No pun intended. That mineral that people the world over hold up as the human standard of having success, of financial successes, often used in fashion circles as ‘the I'm successful standard fashion accessory’. Fool's gold, gold rush, “there's gold in them thur heels!” That's right heels, also not to be confused with the hit reality American TV series ”The Hills” about a group of 20 something's living the life in Beverly Hills, Ca., USA. This season the trend seems to be revolving back to the perfect foot accessory color of the moment, gold. The truth of it is that accessories of gold never grow old, unlike some stories of old. Trails that go cold unlike streets paved of gold thus making all of our fashion accessory dreams come true. At least for this season anyway. —Rich Jackson
1 Gold leather bracelet leather bag Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 2 Open toe gold leather sandal Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 3 Dorothy leather gold bag Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 4 Konstantina Tzovolou: Leather open toe ankle bootie with a beautiful gold studded shaped heart: www.konstantinatzovolou.com; 5 Open toe leather shoe Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 6 Sirene gold leather bag Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 7 Gold leather pumps Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 8 Open toe leather shoe Musette: www.musetteparis.fr; 9 Gold summer leather boot Musette: www.musetteparis.fr
Panty & bra: Tara Paris; Bolero: Escada; Jewelry: Nach; Shoes: Konstantina Tzovolou
Top: Gucci; Bag: All Around Eve
Dress: Pinko; Bag: All Around Eve; Shoes: Konstantina Tzovolou
Lingerie: Carol Malony; Bag: All Around Eve
Panty & bra: Tara Paris Jewelry: Nach
“”
BEAUTY EXPERT
I taint the soul and the heart...
For over 15 years, Carine has been a celebrity makeup artist for french TV. Actresses and pop stars are following her makeup trends. “More than one tool at the service of a face and a body, make-up is writing... Like a writer who lays down the words on paper, I lay down color on the skin, I taint the soul and the heart...” For Vigoré! Magazine, Carine’s helping us get the “neo retro” look of Joséphine!
1 Mascara Carbon Black Télescopic by L’Oréal Paris 2 Eye shadow sensual pink by Make Up For Ever 3 Naked 3 strange & buzz by Urban Decay 4 Aqua liner waterproof green lagoon by Make Up For Ever 5 Tolériane brownzing powder La RochePosay 6 Eye shadow Studio Sculpt Olive Blend by Mac 7 Lipstick Mat Velvet Dark Berry by Kiko
“STOP THE PRESSES!” STOP THE PRESSES!”
All the news that’s fit to print. From all of us “Girls with an attitude,” to guys that were in the mood. From “geekdom, to chic'dom” and all clothing racks in between!
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Gisele Bundchen
Can this be? Say it ain’t so! I have to sober up for this one because this ol’ gal just can’t seem to wrap my girdle around this one. This news may very well rock the foundation of the entire fashion industry as we know it. Gisele Bundchen is hanging up her catwalk pumps! And I just saw her last year! “UUGGHHHH!!!!!”, and no, that wasn’t my best Charlie Brown impersonation whilst trying to kick that large brown football. Although after this news settles in I just may have need for that “Psychiatric Help” sign at $.5 a pop! LUCY! Snoopy? Anybody? Yes, like fearing the death of an old friend the rumors of GB hanging up her runway pumps has (of this writing) been greatly surfacing but alas unfounded, there has been no statement from the great one herself. First the Fatboys break up, now this? Kinda’ like the Ten Commandments when Pharaoh is asked by Ramses what manner of death should become to Moses and the reply came “I simply cannot speaketh”, well I for one simply cannot speaketh in regards to GB retiring. By the way that’s Shakespeare for you stage hands. I just wonder if that Nefertiti, I mean the late great Ann Baxter is working the social media rumor mill to her advantage. Nah, Ann’s much to cool to school plus she’s a real lady. Anyway my spies tell me that GB made no statement to that
subject, and that there were still several international brands that she is committed to, and still may have to do shows and special projects for in the not too distant future. So “Mr. Bigelow, sounds like its soup to me!”
“CHINESE STRIKE AT NIKE! YIKES!” “Did I fail to mention, did I fail to disclose, this man that we seek with a mole on his nose. I’m not sure of his clothes (or anything else), except he’s Chinese, a big clue in itself.”
Stella McCartney Skyblue Falabella Silk Mix Metallic Cross Body Bag
WHAT. IS TROUBLE WITH READY TO WEAR AGAIN? First Jean Paul Gualtier, then Viktor & Rolf, now customers are choosing to use their buying power to purchase a lower price alternative as to purchasing a high priced collection piece from a brand design house. Customers are more willing to splurge on some high end accessories which can then be worn every day rather than a dress or jacket that cannot. This is but only a small issue of concern facing the high end clothing market, and I haven’t even gotten to the square footage and store storage space issues facing retailers. Multiply this by the fact that every season there are newer pieces, themes, etc. coming along, and with that stakes getting even higher to generate revenue for the various investors. What a conundrum! It’s times like these makes me wanna just bag the whole affair (make that bag a TODS bucket bag in white, pg 574 VOGUE US/March for you detailers). Remember the days when all a girl really worried about when she left the house was a grand broach from our grandmothers and the proper shade of lipstick? Betty, Ava, Lana, ALL the girls did. Those days when all a man did when in sight of a pair of earrings was to purchase a pair for his wife or girl? Now, they’re more likely to purchase em’ for themselves. Well ya just godda love a dame. But how do we solve the issue? One way to get around sluggish sales is to go the fragrance route the way that Chanel and Dior did. But not so for the leather guru’s Gucci and Prada who are doing just fine right where they are and such has also been the case for Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen. But the true masters of the ready to wear genre’ are still Michael Kors and Tory Burch. Designer ready to wear brands are coming awfully close to becoming a truly irrelevant fashion entity both commercially and accessibly. There is not a cut successful strategy in the ready to wear market to this day. Sadly.
Lebron James, the face of Nike
Shanghai-Yue Yuen Industrial Holding LTD. Manufacturer of AG, Adidas, and Nike had a production disrupt due to about 2000 disgruntled employees in a town called Dangguan located just within the Guangdong province. The workers went on strike March 17 when the company began to implement “personal adjustments” to speed up productivity without exactly telling, or was that Shanghaiing the employees? Now I don’t know about you, but a personal adjustment usually meant that my girdle has begun to shift into all the wrong spaces. Madonna made a movie there ya know? As of this writing company officials are working with unions and government officials to resolve the remaining underlying issues without having to result to any loss of jobs. If that can happen this truly may be the day that basketball was saved. Oooooh, and I just broke a nail! Madonna and Sean Penn from Shanghai Surprise (1986)
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The ultra-luxe Bal Harbour Shops, Miami, FL USA
BAL HARBOUR SHOP TURNS 50 Someone once told me not to get my knickers in a snit, ok but I definitely am planning to kick up my heels (preferably Louboutins) at the news of the Bal Harbor Shops turning 50! What’s not to be happy about? Speaking of Bal harbor Shops is like bringing up the subject of visiting with an old friend that you haven’t seen in years, yet where you reconnect again as if as Babs Streisand so aptly sang it “Like we never ever said goodbye”. Ya godda love a dame. And you know that we dames always stick together. The mall was opened in 1965 by Stanley Whitman (don’t know if he’s the chocolate Whitman). Story has it that the property used to be an army barracks and a POW camp. It is still owned and operated by the Whitman family’s third generation that has managed to keep up the family tradition with its indoor/outdoor esthetic. Her reputation remains intact with the best atmosphere and top specialty stores. A nip here, a tuck there just to shore things up a bit and this lady continues to be just where she always was and that is at the top of the local south Florida retail fashion chain. Talk about your April sweeps month THIS JUST IN: SEX STILL SELLS! “I Want Your Sex.” “You Sexy MF.” “I Wanna Sex You Up!” “Do Ya Think I’m Sexy?” “Sexyback” Ahhh, speak of it and it appears like a beacon in the hot steamy night. What, dare you ask am I so lazily, lingeringly referring to? Why sex of course! You know, the raw stuff, the stuff that you simply cannot learn about in a classroom that you cannot find in a test tube because you’ve got to have it inside
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of you. Yes that. SEX! There I said it, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex, sex. And you thought I was talking about love didn’t ya? Well the thing is this; love is nice I will grant you this, but sex? Well SEX SELLS BABY! This is true and never more so than in the high end fashion couture houses of the world, and that is the neighborhood where the hot sensual women of the world reside, because in their world the hotter the woman the sexier the wardrobe. I remember eagerly anticipating an episode of Ally McBeal where actress Portia Di Rossi’s character Nelle Porter an attorney with the fictional firm Cage and Fish valiantly coaxed by her boyfriend Richard Fish (with whom she had yet to have Portia Di Rossi / sex with), to utter the singuAlly McBeal (1997) lar word that in her humble estimation “stops men in their tracks”. That word was simply SEX. That word alone caused millions of Americans to wait a week in breathless anticipation for attorney Nelle Porter to say the word sex. And boy did she. How would it sound, whose voice would it be? Portia’s? Season two’s episode titled “The Real World” was all that it was cracked up to be and then some. I also think that when it comes to sex in pertaining to fashion, women, men do not just want to see it but also
want to feel it, be it, own it both literally, figuratively, physically. I don’t care if hemlines continue to drop all the way below the equator. “Sexy clothes sell all over the world from the USA to Europe and Asia. Women want to express feminity that’s why these kinds of clothes, the Houses of Balmain, Cavalli, Herve’ Leger etc. work worldwide” says Silviano Vangi, women’s wear buyer at Luisa Via Roma!
Shout out to Karlie Kloss for leaving Victoria’s Secret. Not that there’s anything bad about The brand itself, not at all, but here’s a girl who manages to keep her knickers ON, while the Marketing intent for decades was to make a man want to take them OFF. Gives a whole new Meaning to the phrase “Central Heating.” Oh how I miss the band Heatwave.
QUICK BITES! Is Lanvin really up for sell, “oh what the hell!” Belts are on sale at casual Corners? Do tell! Pucci, Cavalli, and Smith have new new captains steering their ship! While Carl’s going mini (and we don’t mean the car), with hopes that Chanel will remain retail fashions biggest star. Is the Textile the unwanted stepchild? Like young Harry Potter living under the hallway steps It’s about time that the European textile mills are allowed to shine and get their reps. And don’t think that the designers don’t know it! Seems that the SKINNY GIRLS are systematically being dropped (from the runway shows) like A can of Pick-upSticks! I Haven’t played that game in years. First there’s France, then Denmark. Is it true that the skinny girls are getting kicked to the curb? Tune in next season to see if a few More countries have come to see reason, to which I’m quite sure that some of their agencies will simply tell the perspective fashion weeks to “go straight to hell”, to which the reply will be “been there, didn’t like it-left.” SHOUT OUTS!
Karlie Kloss at VS London show, 2014
Shout out to the gorgeous Meghan Wiggins who just had a birthday last month. Christine Teigen for just taking some really nice, hot husband & wife pictorials for both GQ magazine and also shooting for all around good guy, famed Vogue photographer Bruce Webber last month in Miami. THAT girl is hotter than July and I don’t exactly mean the award winning album by Stevie Wonder. And, she should have long since been a COVER GIRL for BAZAAR, ELLE, VOGUE respectively. And from all of us “girls with an attitude” to guys that were in the mood. From geekdom to chic’ dom, “and all the clothing racks in between.” See ya next issue! Puss! Puss! —Whiskey! Serena Williams, Vogue’s April 2015 cover girl
Shout out to the super cool and nicest women Serena Williams for her second VOGUE US Cover. She and her sister Venus had done ELLE together on the cover, but her second singular cover for Vogue.
Artist, writer and fashion photographer, Whiskey’s not only a person in the know but also a person always on the go. To contact Whiskey, email Whiskey at: jcksn_rch@yahoo.com
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Éléonore Boccara , is what we can call a multi-task talent! Journalist, tv and radio host, actress and singer, she loves media and media love her.... Éléonore joined the Paris team of Vigoré!, and for each issue , she will interview and showcase for you what brightens her eyes! Elonore Boccara and designer, Lan Yu.
FACE TO LAN YUYU FACE TOFACE FACEWITH WITHDESIGNER DESIGNER LAN IMMEDIATELY AFTER HER PARISIAN RIGHT AFTER HER PARISIAN HAUTE COUTURE HAUTE COUTURE SHOW IN GRAND PALAIS SHOW IN GRAND PALAIS EB: Thank you for according me a few minutes. First of all congratulations for this beautiful show! Lan Yu: Merci, very honored to have you in my show. EB: First obvious question: why using only RED? LY: For me red is showing the different degree levels in Love! light red, dark red… EB: The decor is stunning too … this transparent white, the corridors … what is the message behind the decor? LY: This is always concerning Love, the decor is like you can notice a labyrinth , so it's a girl who is lost and try to find herself in the love relationships. She is always trying to find the real love and the real meaning of Love. EB: Tell us more about the fabrics you used. Is there a connection with love too?
LY: For the fabric, the key word is Fragility , organza, silk, embroidery, so it's very delicate very fragile… it's the fragility of the women towards love. EB: So there is a link between love and the fabrics! Do you think that european women will be touched by your collection, maybe in a different way than the Chinese woman? LY: First of all, for me, fragility is not a depressive state of mind, its not depressing. For me, fragility in love means that we gave everything we had, we had the courage to love and this message is universal and this is for all women! EB: A last question, does it mean something special for you to show your collection in Paris? LY: YES! to show my collection in Paris means to show among the BEST designers in the world! EB: Thank you Lan Yu and again congratulations!
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CHINA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER MODEL: SONIA GHALEM WRITTEN BY ÉLÉONORE BOCCARA Inspired from ancient China Lan Yu has carried on with that sense of tradition, and, the predilection for a job well done. There is that attention to detail and precision which has inspired generations of artists since millennium. From contemporary China, a country continent where anything is possible for those whose desire is unfailing, she has come into her own. Lan Yu has succeeded in combining this legacy of passion and tradition with her finely honed skills in the Western world of fashion design which she acquired while attending the prestigious “Fashion Institute of Technology” and living in New York City.
Like long flames and evanescent spiral Lan Yu models of high-fashion designs vibrate with one thousand variations. Audacious, ever changing, ungraspable, these works combine energy with fragility. Elegance with sensuality, strength and a certain sensitivity. Throughout these soft lines, and abundant detail, the Chinese embroidery tells the splendid legend of an ancient culture. “As it was the mystery of the aquatic universe which had inspired the former collection, so it is that nature is now central to this creation. Fire which warms but also burns. Fire red and brilliant, brings to light but also destroys, present yet fleeting. This is the heart of this collection.
Her driving motivational force which naturally proved successful was to design clothing that bore both the sign of an alluring Oriental past, along with the modern elegance of the West.
Red is the guiding line. That red, of a powdered finish, which gives a preciousness altogether Chinese to this collection. A red whose flamboyance at once reflects both the charming aesthetic of a flower, and the force of a flame. This luxuriance, found here and there in nature, is also the representational force of a rich cultural and ancestral tradition which is the very foundation of my work.”
At once diaphanous and structured, Lan Yu here creates a story of multiple meanings.
Contact Lan Yu at: http://en.lanyu.co/
Special thanks to Hotel Idol, Paris
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MEXICO
THE SWEET & CAPTIVATING MADNESS OF
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER MODEL: SONIA GHALEM WRITTEN BY ÉLÉONORE BOCCARA Antonio Ortega draws his energy from the fine line between competing contemporary aesthetics. This season, tension inhabits the space between his inspirations, Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper and urban graffiti exalting female heroines. The stark contrast between the refinement of pictorial history and contemporary urban expression brings life to a collection that transforms women into dynamic, yet hazy, delicate and floating, silhouettes. The designer assembles printed fabrics to create an impressionistic blur accentuated by body movement. The cuts emphasize, but never interfere with the blur, lending form to lengths and shapes that reveal a leg, a curve, a line, skin, sensual and captivating in their own right. The innovative fabrics, sewn with ribbon to underline their structure, curl around and alight on the body, creating volume and graphics. Creations overlap, further accentuating the effect, glittering in stride, shimmering in gesture...
To glorify the woman's body in such an elegant manner, Antonio Ortega plays with cotton, lurex, and high-tech materials, often waterproof, that stiffen or soften, print patterns, and maintain the liquid and silky effect of the garments. He dares to use all lengths, numerous audacities, favouring waist and necklines, relying on the sinuous line of the body to build his impressionist fashion vocabulary. Fine details complete the supple shapes and colours, handmade croquet, embroideries, laces, stitching, eyelets, fine chains... His collection offers a bold wardrobe to women wishing to express their femininity, sensuality, and above all their freedom, far from restricting gender codes and rules. Once again, the designer succeeds in creating bright muses from a mixed and grandiose aesthetic inspiration.
Contact Antonio Ortega at: http://www.antonioortegacouture.com/
Special thanks to Hotel Idol, Paris
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PERU
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER MODEL: SONIA GHALEM WRITTEN BY ÉLÉONORE BOCCARA It all starts with a kaleidoscope of images: there is a sense of throbbing energy, and dense, intense sounds give rhythm to the silhouettes. The Alexandre Delima woman glows with courage, and sails through the 21st century like a contemporary heroine. She wants to experience a 2015 spring/summer season with casual assurance while remaining elegant, sophisticated and appealing. Her codes are freedom and charm. Her wardrobe is mainly made up of dresses, long and short, but she won't say no to a dinner suit, trouser suit – even a pair of shorts or Bermudas. Shorts: yes; Bermudas: maybe - or a tank-top dress, but one inspired by the basketball players and Hip-Hop world of America, the country where Alexandre grew up, and which formed his tastes and predilections. Every outfit in this second couture collection pays tribute to the expert skills of Haute Couture, with geometrical embroidery and cuts, and materials that harmonise to perfect and "sensualise" the body.
The colour range is soft, but also makes play with more vivid shades. Ivory is set off by deep black. A black mini-dress acts as a hyphen to the collection. Opaque and transparent, embroidered with stones, glass and fringes, it expresses the emancipated spirit of the Delima woman. Sharp silhouettes, as though drawn with a pencil, and noble fabrics like crepe drape, gazar, organza, silk and goatskin suede in no way prevent unusual play with cuts and contrasting geometric pleats. The collection's chief assets are its love and respect for today's women, freed by their own desire to appeal and be themselves. They go for wide-brimmed hats inspired by basketball caps worn with ultra-feminine dresses, jewel bags that snuggle into the hand, rings like second skins, and newlook tie necklaces: all accessories in the Alexandre Delima vocabulary. Contact Alexandre Delima at: http://www.alexandre-delima.com/
Special thanks to Hotel Idol, Paris
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SPAIN
WRITTEN BY ÉLÉONORE BOCCARA Alfredo Villalba celebrates female power. Women who revel in their independence, are sensual, confident, cosmopolitan, incredibly accomplished and not afraid of fashion. A trendsetter, style leader, key influencer, she will always choose the fashion road less travelled. Every season brings about new creations that follow a pattern that opposes conceptual and minimalist notions by portraying recognizable garments in an emotional rupture using vivid colour schemes and textural harmonies. The result: the distinctive ALFREDO VILLABA Collections, signified by an empowering visual beauty with a distinct and passionate sensorial experience, seen and felt. Stereotypes from past styles recreate with complete freedom and luxurious renderings the mood of a Winter of Love, the RTW FW 2015 Collection, an altered state of fashion that begins with the counter cultural values inspired by the youth culture in the 1970s. The hippy legacy in a myriad of forms, a sophisticated coterie that time warps to the XXIst Century.
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Psychedelic windowpanes, colourful brocades and velvet devoré, guipure, tweed, hounds tooth, covered by tulle, lux denim are the textile fabrics. Materials from nature revolve around hides and furs; leather, laser poni, python, afghan sheep, long hair furs, the wild edge. The embellishments include insect details; buttons, trimmings. On the fringe, tassels. Embodying metal mesh creates flexible rigid structures. A distinctive characteristic of Alfredo Villalba, embedded in the premium brand's genetic code, is the supreme quality of the textiles, fabrics, embellishments and trimmings used. A Winter of Love also recreates the styles of two leading fashion cities: Paris and London. The chic approach to fashion opposed to the anarchic approach towards dressing. Antagonistic styles represented in fourreaux and leather jackets, hyper feminine dresses and metallic tops, skin tight leggings and stand out coats, red carpet and music diva styles. The generic fashion code by ALFREDO VILLABA warms up to the Winter of Love. Contact Alfredo Villalba at: http://alfredovillalba.es/
Photography courtesy of Alfredo Villalba
THAILAND
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER MODEL: SONIA GHALEM WRITTEN BY ÉLÉONORE BOCCARA Inspired by the incredibly diverse landscapes and microenvironments of South America, the Spring/Summer 2015 collection takes us on a journey with an archetypal Busardi woman, strong and beautiful as she soars through the glacier-hewn fields of Patagonia, past the smoking plunge pools of the Iguazu Falls and into the golden pink sand deserts of Argentina. Honing in on the ethereal beauty that the brand is renowned for, a splendour of exquisitely crafted gowns play with layering and transparency to create new codes of modern femininity. Pulling on a rich tapestry of references, models are personified into resplendent eagles covered in an armour of accessories: ear cuffs, bracelets and necklaces moulded in solid silver and covered with crystals and pearls - challenging the traditional notions of eveningwear. The attachment of soft ostrich feathers on cocktail dresses, evening gowns and jackets nods to exquisite birds in flight, while lace-formed adornments command a serene glacial allusion. Layered with more philosophical implications, the collection sees the element of oxygen take centre stage - air sustains all life but the power of air can freeze great swathes of water and waterfalls into icebergs. Billowing
silhouettes glide down the catwalk, while more structured pieces are adorned with feathers that gently float through the air as the models drift down the runway. The entire collection of luxurious gowns and dresses has a carefree, laissez-faire mood, enhanced by Busardi's signature use of embroidery, lace and appliqué. Not comprising on luxe detailing, a profusion of floating hemlines and floor skimming skirts maintain the red carpet grandeur. However, nothing encapsulates the mood quite like the finale piece - a queen of the birds, adorned with hundreds of grey ostrich feathers layered around the shoulders of a trademark cape. Heavily encrusted ear cuffs frame the model's face, while delicate hand embroidered appliqué finely decorates the waist of a silk dress; her silver tulle skirt trails the runway, mirroring the tail of a great bird as she soars through the Patagonian air. Colours: Light blue, beige, powder blue, lilac, aqua, dusky pink, gold, baby blue, laurel green, sky blue, silver, taupe, orange, rose, pink, purple, turquoise, nude, white and cream. Fabrics: Ostrich feathers, lace, chiffon, taffeta, duchess satin, silk jacquard, shantung, silk, organza, crepe satin, organza, tulle, cloque and wool.
Contact Alfredo Villalba at: http://www.busardi.com/
Special thanks to Hotel Idol, Paris
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Golden lace gown with illusion tulle on shoulders: Christophe GuillarmĂŠ Gold ring GarnoĂŻ: VIJ Paris
“Black Orchidée” Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection inspired by the movie The Black Orchid directed by Martin Ritt, starring a mysterious black widow: the exquisite Sophia Loren. French designer Christophe Guillarmé plays with a vintage spirit mixed with Old Hollywood and Dolce Vita glamour. The story of a Napolitan Beauty visiting Los Angeles wearing black and white printed neoprene mini-dress with a matching coat or black jersey gown with a sheer full bust encrusted with several stones. Red lust tones are
used in many outfits, and dark fuchsia pink appears as the cherry on the cake for voluminous styles mixed with either black intricating fishnet or black lace applique on neckline. Golden shades are appealing on tulle or laces and oustands with pressed crystal rhinestones. All styles are embelished with exquisite handmade details close to Haute Couture finishing. This Fall-Winter 2015-2016 collection presents an Italian retro but Californian contemporary & edgy look.
Left: Golden lace fitted dress applied with beige lace: Christophe Guillarmé Gold ring with emeralds Metropolitane: VIJ Paris
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Right: Gold Tube Skirt; Gold Sequins top / Silk Metalic Satin
Structured Tulip Dress / off white wool knit
A-line tube dress; off white tulle/tubes: silk, cotton mix
A-line tube dress; off white tulle/tubes: silk, cotton mix
Gold Tube skirt; Gold sequins top / Silk metalic satin
Right: Silk Tube top; Gold sequins / Sequins / gold metallic silk satin
Dress: A.F. Vandevorst; Shoes: Tony Blanco
Dress: Barlano
Top: Vivien Westwood; Pants: Josh Goot; Peter Lang Starburst earrings from Behind the Monkey
Bliss Lau Body Chain from Behind the Monkey
Skirt: Steph Audino; Body Chain: Bliss Lau; Lustre J Cuffs from Behind the Monkey
Top: Billie and Rose; Pants: Emma Mulholland; Shoes: Tony Blanco
Above: Dress: Barlano; Lustre J Brass Collar and Mezi Fringe Cuff from Behind the Monkey; Shoes: Tony Blanco Right: Top: Ange Lang; Skirt: Steph Audino; Zoda Tribal Necklace from Behind the Monkey
Dress: Kirrlly Johnston; Lustre J Copper Cuff and Rue Stilc Armbands from Behind the Monkey
Image from David Bowie Is Exhibition at the Philharmonie de Paris until May 31 presents the first retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie—one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time. More than 400 objects, most from the David Bowie Archive—including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, photography, set designs, album artwork, and rare performance material from the past five decades—are brought together for the first time.
Photo: Masayoshi Sukita. © Sukita / The David Bowie Archive 2012. Striped bodysuit for Aladdin Sane tour, 1973. Design: Kansai Yamamoto.
ART
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER INTRODUCTION BY NIKOLINE LIV ANDERSEN Nikoline Liv Andersen is an extraordinary talent on the Danish fashion scene. Her work is situated in an extravagant universe between art, fashion and crafts, far from the doc-trines dictated by commercialism. She has a profound desire to leave her mark on our consciousness and rattle our understanding of fashion and clothes. Her work is a textile experiment of theatrical and sculptural installations with strong roots in the savoir-faire of haute couture. In Nikoline Liv Andersen's shows and exhibitions (she has notably exhibited at Designmuseum Danmark, Gallery Martin AsbÌk Gallery and at MINDCRAFT14 in Milano) her installations moves and provokes the viewer with a spectacular and theatrical mise-en-scène, that is at the same time eerie and carries a graceful and romantic beauty. As a constant reminder that beauty can always be deconstructed.
Nikoline Liv Andersen's work is deeply rooted in the haute couture tradition. Her tech-niques and methods are uncompromising. She works with unconventional materials, transforms them and creates new expressions. Industrial pop rivets is given the appearance of soft feathers, plastic straws are cut in different lengths and turns into organic forms and her patient work with painting, cut-ting and printing with metallic foil, turns banal cotton into a beautiful fur coat. What characterises Nikoline Liv Andersen's work is the numerous layers of tissue and material and her technique that gives an optically surprising surface and texture. To ex-press the frailty of life, the last process in her creations is often a decomposition of the finished work. She unstitches and tears open, adds paint or foil to give substance to her work. Nikoline Liv Andersen leaves the viewer with a feeling of something exclusive and feminine, both humorous and cruel. Like her extravagant rococo-inspired wigs of the wise monkeys. turn page
Her work is a textile experiment of theatrical and sculptural installations with strong roots in the savoir-faire of haute couture.
Nikoline Liv Andersen leaves the viewer with a feeling of something exclusive and feminine, both humorous and cruel.
ART
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GREG ALEXANDER WORDS BY SARAH ROSHEM Born in 1972, Sarah Roshem lives and works in Paris and has worked with wax since the 1990s. In the 2000, she put her practice of wax in the service of a fictional medical laboratory SR Labo [www.srlabo.org]. In 2011, taking her surname, Sarah Roshem transitioned her work into contemporary sculpture. Leaving aspects of medicine, Ms. Roshem is interested in giving her own poetic vision of fragility of life and feelings. THE STORY BEHIND ‘THE WAX WRAP’ COLLECTION While packing in foam of old wax parts to preserve them and arrange them, I felt a great pleasure to observe the «games» between wax and foam. This gesture of safeguarding became ‘a new language’ in which I immediately wanted to exploit the screening of the body and its seclu-
sion. In a more assumed posture, I began to search the manner of making the body disappear while revealing only certain parts; in using ropes, shadows and foam I methodically put myself to revisit these parts of the past which I did not want to see anymore in my workshop by projecting on them new desires, a new way making them desirable. With that purpose in mind, I make certain parts disappear by covering all the powerful signs from their human presence, occulting the faces, the sensual bodies of the body while letting appear explicitly sexual indices. Animated by a creative impulse and freedom mixing a certain violence combined with a little sophistication - these reinvested wax parts can now breathe a new life – reincarnated in a new appearance – at the same time oppressive and stimulating. —Sarah Roshem To learn more about Ms. Roshem visit http://www.sarahroshem.net turn page
Lady C by Sarah Roshem
Lord T by Sarah Roshem
Gourmet! by Sarah Roshem
Lord Z by Sarah Roshem
artist, jeweler, goldsmith, interior goldsmith...
ART
...contemporary designer, dreammaker...
Jean Boggio, goldsmith, French designer and jeweler, began his career at the age of twenty, when he opened his first shop in 1983 in the city of Lyon (France), with its very architectural creations, the palace rings. He created a fantastic, luxurious and beautiful environment. A dreamlike narrative world made of gold, silver, silk and gems.... Drawing its inspiration from his imagination from childhood memories, he transformed each of his creations into a true tale. The creativity and imagination that are manifested in the perfection and mastery of a skill of craftsmanship. Jean Boggio is a virtuoso perfectly mastering design and materials. It is able to transcribe a dream design and develop it on different materials like wax, glass paste, sculpture, silk and of course precious stones, gems and metals. His talent earned him called "little prince of
decoration." It was soon noticed by collectors clients and also the great French luxury houses who apply repeatedly for different collaborations. Therefore begins a great " success story".
Ring ManĂŠge
He directed in 1988 at the age of 25, his first exhibition "De Main de MaĂŽtre" at the Grand Palais in Paris and exposed in New York at the "Art 54" gallery. The following year, he participated in turn page
the exhibition "Masters of Tomorrow" organized in Tokyo by Seibu Department store. During the 1990s and 2000s, Jean Boggio had numerous partnerships with the finest luxury homes and created magnificent collections. Houses such as Chopard, Hermes, Baccarat, Longwy Enamels, call for creativity. He created in 1999 the collection of dishes, Psyche, for The Ritz (the Famous, Parisian Luxury Hotel). In 2008, to celebrate 20 years of "Journey to the decorative arts", the Réunion des Musées Nationaux (RMN) gave him his first exhibition at the National Museum of Adrien Dubouche Limoges porcelain. In 2011 he received the Talent Entrepreneurship, at the Luxury summit in Paris, crowning a successful career filled with passion and creativity. Subsequently, in 2012, the Museum Selb Porzellanikon (European Industrial Museum of Porcelain) also dedicated a beautiful exhibition.
Cnossos design table
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The creations of Jean Boggio are unique and reflect a true signature style. With a rich work to detail, very architectural rings and complexes are richly decorated. His faceless cartoon characters are a true mirror of the soul. His furniture interiors jewelery and decorations are a perfect setting for his creations. Today Jean Boggio, Ambassador of genuine expertise of French arts and crafts, continues his creative work. With the passion of fine workmanship, born from the hand of the artisan, he tirelessly builds bridges between the different worlds of his art, thus connecting Asia and the West. Pushing boundless creativity everywhere, Jean Boggio is a creator of dreams.
Ring 1001 Nuits
He created a fantastic, luxurious and beautiful environment. A dreamlike narrative world made of gold, silver, silk and gems....
ART
ART & OBJECTS OF CURIOSITY A cabinet of curiosities, objects of art, decoration, unique pieces connecting people and nature. Crânatomie presents various artists: Benoît Peleran, Alessandra Rovati and Nathalie Ziegler. Crânatomie works with architects and interior designers to complete custom made projects. To discover more visit www.cranatomie.com
Suspension Dragon [Gold]
In the work of Benoit, skulls serve as a structure, a basis away from any covering. He uses them as a raw material, having an amazing potential. The skull reminds us constantly the presence of death and
that life vanishes but its now a brand new object .Thanks to its new compositions, its colors and its textures, it turns into a plastic and referential element, ironic smile of its own immobility.
Lover of the art and the artists, fascinated by journey, Alessandra transmits her passion for nature. She crystlizes pieces that she sublimates through the game of transparency and lights. She adds unreal colors, sometimes sublime, other times surprisingly.
Album cover shoot for Aladdin Sane, 1973. Design: Brian Duffy and Celia Philo; make up: Pierre La Roche. Photo: Brian Duffy. Photo Duffy Š Duffy Archive & The David Bowie Archive.
ART
David Bowie Is presents the first retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie— one of the most pioneering and influential performers of our time. More than 400 objects, most from the David Bowie Archive—including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, photography, set designs, album artwork, and rare performance material from the past five decades—are brought together for the first time at the Philharmonie de Paris March 3 through May 31, 2015. Bowie’s work has both influenced and been influenced by wider movements in art, design, theater, and contemporary culture, and the exhibition subsequently focuses on his creative processes, shifting style, and collaborative work with diverse designers in the fields of fashion, sound, graphics, theater, and film. Bowie Konrads, 1958 Photo courtesy of The David Bowie Archive. turn page
Organized chronologically, David Bowie Is traces the artist’s evolution from his years as a teenager in the 1950s to the early 2000s when he retired from touring. Before the surprise release of the 2013 album The Next Day, Bowie had not released an album since Reality in 2003. On display are more than sixty stage costumes including the Ziggy Stardust bodysuits (1972), designed by Freddie Burretti; Kansai Yamamoto’s flamboyant creations for the Aladdin Sane tour (1973); and the Union Jack coat designed by Bowie and Alexander McQueen for the Earthling album cover (1997). Bowie’s many personae are amply documented through photography, graphic designs, models of concert sets, visual excerpts from films, and live performances, including his starring role in Nicolas Roeg’s The Man Who Fell to Earth (1976) and his appearance on Saturday Night Live (1979), as well as music videos for songs such as “Boys Keep Swinging” (1979) and “Let’s Dance” (1983). Alongside such prominent examples are more personal items such as never-beforeseen storyboards, handwritten set lists and lyrics, and some of Bowie’s own sketches, musical scores, and diary entries, which help reveal the evolution of his creative ideas. Other aspects of Bowie’s life and career, such as his productive period in Berlin in the late 1970s and early 1980s, his experimental approaches to songwriting, and his extensive work as a film actor are also explored as compelling stories unto themselves. The culmination of the exhibition is arguably the section devoted to his concert tours, where an engrossing combination of
Clockwise from left to right: Life on Mars suit; Original lyrics for Ziggy Stardust, by David Bowie, 1972; Red platform boots for the 1973 Aladdin Sane tour. Image © Victoria and Albert Museum; Acoustic-guitar-from Space Oddity era, 1969. All photos courtesy of The David Bowie Archive.
costumes, towering video projections, and a specially designed soundtrack bring home the truly multidisciplinary nature of Bowie’s live performances. After four decades in the public eye, the artist continues to be a relevant force in contemporary culture and music. Chief among his latest efforts was the surprise 2013 album The Next Day, which won many accolades as well as the Brit Award for Best Male Solo Artist. His chameleonic character transformations throughout the years are central to his contribution to contemporary culture and highly relevant to contemporary artists such as Cindy Sherman, Wu Tsang, Janelle Monae, and Lady Gaga.
David Bowie during the filming of the Ashes to Ashes video, 1980. Photo: Brian Duffy. Photo courtesy of Duffy Š Duffy Archive &The David Bowie Archive.
Bjรถrk, Biophilia, 2011 By M/M [Paris]. Photography by Inez van Lamsweende & Vinoodh Matadin. Image courtesy of Welhart Ltd. & One Little Indian.
ART
MoMA retrospective of the singer, composer, and musician Björk chronicles over two decades of her daring and innovative music, videos, visuals, objects, costumes, and Instruments
MoMA presents Björk, a retrospective dedicated to the multifaceted work of the singer, composer, and musician, from March 8 to June 7, 2015. Björk offers an experience of music in many layers, with instruments, a theatrical presentation, an immersive sound experience, a focused audio guide, and related visualizations—from photography and music videos to new media works. The exhibition draws from more than 20 years of the artist’s daring and innovative career, beginning with her eight full-length albums and multiple collaborations with directors, photographers, designers, artists, and other experimental practitioners, and culminating in a new, immersive music and film experience commissioned by MoMA. The exhibition is conceived and organized by Klaus Biesenbach, Chief Curator at Large at MoMA and Director of MoMA PS1, and is made possible by a partnership with Volkswagen of America. The product of a close collaboration between Mr. Biesenbach and Björk, the exhibition brings together a chronology of sounds, videos, objects, instruments, costumes, and images that express the artist’s overarching projturn page
Björk, Still from "All Is Full of Love" directed by Christ Cunningham, 1999. Photo courtesy of Wellhart Ltd. & One Little Indian.
ect: her music. Chronologically, the exhibition begins with the release of Björk’s first mature solo album, Debut, in 1993, and proceeds through her career up to her most recent work in 2015, including a new video and music installation commissioned especially for the Museum, Black Lake (which also appears on her new album, Vulnicura). Mr. Biesenbach states: “An uncompromisingly original and highly accomplished auteur and solo artist in her composing, singing, and music, Björk is notably open to collaboration and interpretation of her work, extending even into education and audience participation. Over the decades she has also developed a highly collaborative practice to visualize and express her music and lyrics. Working with photographers, film- and video-makers, designers, architects, craftsmen, and inventors, she crosses over into all categories of high and low culture, digital and analog, into most creative fields.” The retrospective is composed of multiple layers, within the Museum lobbies on the first floor and the Donald B. and Catherine C. Marron Atrium on the second floor. In the lobbies, four musical instruments from Biophilia are on view, programmed to play music and sounds composedby Björk. The instruments include a Tesla coil, Gravity Harps designed by Andrew Cavatorta, a gameleste, an instrument that is a combination of a gamelan and a celesta, made by Björgvin Tómasson and Matt Nolan, and a pipe organ, also designed by Tómasson. Björk’s integration of music, design, and digital technology is consistently groundbreaking, and
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the Biophilia app, acquired by MoMA’s Department of Architecture and Design, is the first app to enter the collection. The Biophilia app is on view in the third-floor Architecture and Design galleries. In the Marron Atrium, a two-story structure is specifically built for the exhibition’s acoustical needs. An experimental sound experience with Björk’s music and a fictitiously biographical narrative, written by Icelandic writer Sjón, was developed in partnership with Volkswagen’s Electronics Research Lab in Belmont, CA. This interactive location based system will provide visitors an intimate audio experience on the upper level of the structure, which was conceived by the curator in close collaboration with the artist and her creative consultant Sam Gainsbury, from Gainsbury and Whiting and production designer Gideon Ponte.. This section of the exhibition, entitled Songlines, chronicles the last 22 years of Björk’s exemplary body of work through her eight albums: Debut (1993), Post (1995), Homogenic (1997), Vespertine (2001), Medulla (2004), Volta (2007), Biophilia (2011), and Vulnicura (2015). For each album a complex, multifaceted character was created, represented through striking visual images that express and embody her music. Among the many visuals, objects, and costumes on view are the robots designed by Chris Cunningham for the music video All Is Full of Love; Marjan Pejowski’s Swan Dress (2001); Alexander McQueen’s Bell Dress (2004) and Pagan Poetry Dress (2001); Iceland Love Corporation’s Volta album costume (2007); Bernhard Willhelm’s Volta tour dress (2007); Hussein Chalayan’s
Björk, Vulnicura, 2015. ©2015 Inez and Vinoodh. Image courtesy of Wellhart Ltd. & One Little Indian.
Airmail Dress (1999); and Iris van Herpen’s Biophilia tour dress (2013). On the lower level of the Marron Atrium structure, Björk’s newest character and album will be featured in an immersive music and film experience, Black Lake. The 10-minute video, conceived and realized with director Andrew Thomas Huang, was filmed on location in Iceland during the summer of 2014, and includes motifs from the Icelandic landscape—caves, ravines, lava, and moss fields—and reflects ideas of pain, perishing, and rebirth. Black Lake was realized in collaboration with the 3-D design firm Autodesk, who worked along with David Benjamin and The Living on the installation at MoMA. Also on the lower level of the Marron Atrium structure, a generous cinema space will show a chronological presentation of Björk’s music videos. In her music videos Björk has
embraced elements of experimental video and filmmaking, technology, narration, and performance to create a rich and varied body of work. Her music videos have become some of the most creative ways for her to visualize each album’s characters, and have also been the site for some of her most fruitful collaborations. For each video she works closely with the director on the concept and execution, and over the course of her career she has often continued these collaborative relationships across 3 multiple projects. Sound design in the cinema and Black Lake was done by Marco Perry for Immersive Audio, Ltd., with the support of Bowers & Wilkins. The exhibition explores Björk’s singular place in contemporary art, and celebrates her highly original and significant music, compositions, performances, and visual presentations.
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Ballet du Grand Theatre de GenĂŠ Noisette de Piotr Ilitch Tchaikovski, November, 2014. Choregrapher: Jeroen Verbruggen.
ART
Jeroen Verbruggen’s Successful Dream Of A New Nutcracker For The Geneva Ballet With Sets And Costumes
The new version of Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet, The Nutcracker, for the Geneva Ballet by the young Belgian choreographer Jeroen Verbruggen drew its inspiration from a world of dreams and emotion. Jeroen Verbruggen’s takes step out of time with his un- conventional and playful take on the well-known fairytale. Conductor Philippe Béran and the Orchestre de la Suisse Romande providd the music for this production. Sets and costumes were by Parisian couture team, Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, also known as ON AURA TOUT VU. Jeroen Verbruggen's boundlessly festive vision of dance is a enchanting fairytale full of exuberant joy and lyric tenderness. In his extremely personal choreographic style, he offered an original take on Marius Petipa's 1892 ballet masterpiece to Tchaikovsky's celebrated music. In a Baroque environment provided by Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov,
Jeroen Verbruggen focused on the figure of Marie, a young girl captivated by the mystery of her incipient womanhood, and Drosselmeyer, a circus ringmaster in whom dwells a Prince that Marie must discover. Jeroen Verbruggen's twirling, virtuosic dance took his audience to Alice's wonderland, a dreamscape of swirling rainbow hues, carefree to the point of frivolity, running the gamut of sombre, gay and Jeroen Verbruggen absurd moods; to a world where his characters multiply and begin speaking to our inner child. turn page
Top Left: Parisian couture team, Livia
Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov, also known as ON AURA TOUT VU. All images GTB/Gregory Batardon
From “Anachronism”
Photography: Greg Alexander for Vigoré! Art Director: Sébastien Vienne Assistant: Audrey Ibanez Makeup: Carine Larchet Hair: Gaëlle Bertoletti Models: Pierrick & Charlelie & Gent @ Modelinlux Vincent @ Men of Mademoiselle Special thanks to Idol Hotel Paris
Scarf: Jungle Vanitas Collection by Jean Boggio Skeleton: Benoît Peleran for Crânatomie "Thanatos" Location: Special thanks Idole Hotel, Paris
Total look: Smalto
1M85, wide smile, let's meet the fresh elected ‘Mister France’! VM: How hard it is to be the most handsome man of France? MF: Being Mister France 2015 is a great experience. Beauty is subjective - I don't think I'm the most handsome man of France. I'm 'Mister France' because I would like to succeed in a modeling career. In my opinion, the competition surrounding me is a stepping-stone and gives me credibility to what I do. To hold the title of 'Mr. France' one must be involved in legitimate projects. I have no interest in the superficiality of being 'Mr. France' soley for the physical aspect - 'Mr. France' is not a Chippendale's contest! VM: Can you have a private life after that? MF: It is very important to separate my private life from my public life and not mix one into the other. This is very different turn page
VM: Who are your favorite designers? Total look: Smalto
MF: I love the work of Véronique Nichanian with Hermes men's collection. Karl Lagerfeld and Jean Paul Gaultier are my French fashion icons. And I am always surprised by the sublime creation of American designer Jeremy Scott ... VM: What is your everyday style?
from reality TV where everyone wants to know every detail about everyone - especially personal details. I personally prefer to focus on modeling while my private life remains private. focus on a professional project in modeling, and I keep my privacy for me. VM: Are French guys really the best lovers? MF: Ahahah! Have you heard of the French kiss? I'm joking! Paris still is the most romantic city in the world where people still dream. Between you and me, it's not some French magical sex move; it's all really just about taking care of them, and making a woman your priority. It's honestly not much more complicated than that and above all, it's not a question of being French or not. VM: Do you think every day men can dress like the models on the catwalk? MF: That's a great question! I think high couture is avant-garde - it marks / leads trends and fashion is constantly renewed. Even if everything can't be worn daily, there's still some very nice pieces that are not too extravagant and can be worn 'on the street'. For example, the Saint Laurent 2015 Fall-Winter collection: chic and sophisticated and you can wear those looks in the street.
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MF: Every day, I wear boots like G-star Raw with slim trousers and an adjusted cut top. My dress code depends of my mood… but I try to be fashionable. My favorite clothing brands are Emporio, Armani, Azzaro and Eleven Paris. VM: Some beauty tips for our readers? MF: With pleasure! You can use lemon to lighten your skin texture and balance the pH of your skin (reduce discolored skin spots). I advise to use only natural products for your skin. For your dress, keep it basic and only wear a maximum of 2 or 3 colors! If you are thin I recommend slim dresses or if your are well built you can wear large dresses, not the opposite! To finish, sports are very important for your health, you can try TRX suspension trainer, workout system that leverages gravity and your bodyweight to perform hundreds of exercises…. anyone can do it! VM: What are your future career plans? MF: I begin my modeling career. I would like to concentrate on my modeling career and work it for a minimum of 5 years. In the sideline, I would like to become a movie actor - I want to diversify my career and meet the right people. I go ahead! This is it like an American "yes we can”, it is something that I brought back to France when I went to San Francisco; this little bit of American culture. I hope to come back soon…
Here, men do not come in search of the changing winds of fashion but to rediscover the spirit of couture that discloses its identity as closely as possible. Exceptional fabrics and materials, impeccable precision of the cut, care for the slightest detail. In addition to this master craftsmanship, there is another basic concept, that of offering comfort before all else! As a unique French fashion house that perpetuates the tradition of bespoke tailoring, Smalto cultivates its unique identity. It is a spirit of chic and it is more contemporary than ever. The ultimate elegance for a man is bespoke tailoring. And in this register, the creations which have been emerging for the last half-century from the SMALTO workshops are recognised as being among the finest in the world.
Beautiful materials and careful finishing. The tailoring tradition is also the point of departure for the ready-towear collections. Every season, Youn Chong Bak, creative director of the brand, designs something to attract her contemporaries with a natural chic, but often in a more relaxed version. From formal to leisure wear, from an ultra-light dinner jacket to a leather blouson, a stroke of her pencil reveals a man with a strong personality who combines strength with tenderness. The Smalto and Smalto By collections are enhanced by numerous accessories in which refinement is the watchword - shoes, watches, bags, belts, and so on.
Tuxedo: Hugo Boss; Shirt: Dolce&Gabbana; Bow-tie: H&M
Written by Rich Jackson
of us under the proverbial table be he Sean, Roger, Pierce, etc. you do the math. He takes his martini’s shaken not stirred, and yet quite unlike Superman, a gent who has his own suit (but that’s another story) does smoke, drink, swear, and doesn’t always tell the truth. But what he does do is look mighty dapper in a tux. Blimey! It’s a pretty good idea to know about the history of the tuxedo even if your plans are not grandiose.
Artist, writer and fashion photographer, Rich Jackson’s not only a guy in the know but also a guy always on the go. To contact him, email him at: jcksn_rch@yahoo.com
Photography Greg Alexander
While once upon a time it was considered semi-formal the tuxedo has now become somewhat the standard representing the quintessential level of dress for a gentleman especially in America. Seems that in 1860 Henry Pool & Company derived a rather short smoking jacket that was poka-dotted and thus gone on to be worn by a Mr. James Potter an uber wealthy New Yorker while on a trip to the UK. Upon returning home Mr. Potter wore the suit to the Tuxedo Park Club, a residential country club frequented by the upper elite of New York society. He showed up, the membership went gaga (not that Gaga) and soon thereafter adopted it as their own informal dining uniform and quicker than you can say MI-6, the name was born. Just try sticking that into your Moneypenny! Ohh James!
Model Vincent@men of mademoiselle
WHAT DOES A CHINESE ACTION hero, an agent of her majesty’s secret service, and a well intentioned penguin have in common? The penguin who is named Tennessee, who’s only dream in life is to be human, has the last name of Tuxedo. Tennessee Tuxedo lives in a zoo and spends his days trying to solve problems alongside his BFF Chumly a walrus, the way that humans often do usually without any flair and subsequently ends up quite the whirling dervish, being scuttled fore and aft. But he tries. Now the latter two gents are more in keeping with the dapperness of the unit itself and if for nothing else they are indeed human, for Tennessee Tuxedo is a very classic beloved American cartoon character. Jackie Chan is a movie actor action hero who also starred opposite actress Jennifer Love Hewitt in the aptly titled movie, Tuxedo, who when puts on his bosses tuxedo is bestowed with extraordinary powers. And not unlike Tennessee, also ends up a whirling dervish, which leads us to the last installment which is a gentleman who unlike Mr. Chan, nor Mr. Tuxedo tends to always land on his feet, a boat, yacht, a tank, and almost always under a woman. We’re still trying to figure that one out? The name is Bond, James Bond and yes he can certainly drink any one
tu r n p a g e
BY RICH JACKSON “Why Geoffrey you’re back!” gushed a startled Annabeth whilst rising to her feet to greet her battle weary lover fresh from walking off the runways of the 2014 Yohji-Yamamoto Mens Spring-Summer 2015 Paris showcase. Most of those styles that were presented, (the beards not the clothes mind you) for this year tended to be full and short, and were suitable for both young and old men. But first, you must decide the best, most suitable style for you. And a gentleman can truly change his game depending on the style that he likes. Now would be the best time to start growing a beard since they do seem to be rather becoming during the Autumn, Fall winter months. Beards work at any length but a full beard is always trendy. Always remembering that the perfect hair style may not exactly win you an Oscar per say, not even a whiff of a Golden Globe, but you can bet your Lido, or is that Leto that if the style and cut are right , your companion may not be seeing 50 Shades of Grey but rather be thinking of 50 ways to play. Now that very well may be the kindest cut of all.