GAUDI to GOURMET Barcelona to Copenhagen 25 April 2019
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Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
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Congratulations on booking your Traveller Tours Gaudi to Gourmet reader cruise. During this extraordinary 15-day cruise through Europe, you’ll experience some of the greatest sights of Spain, Portugal, the Netherlands, Denmark and more. You’ll savour the continent’s exceptional cuisine, and enjoy the expert company of Nine’s acclaimed food writer Jill Dupleix and award-winning restaurant critic Terry Durack. Learn about the secrets of travel writing from Steve Mckenna, a UK based travel writer and a regular contributor to Traveller and traveller.com.au titles. Steve has visited many of these amazing destinations and will share his special insights and tips with you. In the company of Barcelona-based architect Rodrigo Aguirre, you’ll enjoy unique insights into the Sagrada Família, Antoni Gaudi’s still unfinished masterpiece Basilica. Your Traveller Tours culinary adventure starts with a welcome dinner in Barcelona, port tasting in Porto, culinary tour of Amsterdam and intimate Q & A sessions with Jill, Terry and Steve on board. Delight your palate with Traveller Tours exclusive talks on Spanish gastronomy by Jill and Terry - a rare opportunity to learn about the great food and wines of Spain from the experts. We look forward to welcoming you on board for this exceptional and unforgettable gourmet journey.
Anthony Dennis - Editor, Traveller
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CONTENTS
MEET YOUR EXPERTS
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GAUDI TO GOURMET 13 DAY ITINERARY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08 JILL AND TERRY’S GOURMET GUIDE
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DAY 1 BARCELONA DAY 3 MURICA
DAY 4 GRANADA DAY 6 PORTO
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DAY 8 FALMOUTH
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DAY 9 PORTSMOUTH DAY 10 PARIS
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DAY 11 BRUGES
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DAY 12 AMSTERDAM
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DAY 13 COPENHAGEN
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MEET YOUR EXPERTS
THE FOOD WRITER
THE RESTAURANT CRITIC
JILL DUPLEIX
TERRY DURACK
Jill is an acclaimed food writer and restaurant critic, the author of 16 cookbooks, including New Food and Lighten Up, and the first and only Australian to be cookery editor of The Times in London. Jill was in the coveted role with The Times from 2000 to 2007 and travelled widely across Europe and the UK during that time. Jill is food editor of The Australian Financial Review Magazine and together with her parter in life and food writing, Terry Durack, is co-director of The Financial Review’s Australia’s Top Restaurants Awards.
Terry is an award-winning restaurant critic and a prolific food and travel writer with a lifelong passion for his field of expertise. He was formerly the London-based restaurant reviewer for The Independent on Sunday in the UK. He is the author of six books on food and dining, including Noodle and Hunger, and was editor of The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide for eight years.
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THE GAUDI AUTHORITY
THE TRAVEL WRITER
RODRIGO AGUIRRE
STEVE MCKENNA
Rodrigo, from the Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalonia, is a Barcelonabased expert on Gaudí and contemporary architecture. He runs Gaudí masterclass workshops, focusing on the spectacular branching columns in Sagrada Familia, with Australian Professor Mark Burry, the executive architect and lead researcher on the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Professor Mark Burry, who is also the foundation director of the Smart Cities Research Institute at Melbourne’s Swinburne Research Institute, is writing a book about Sagrada Familia with Rodrigo.
Steve is a UK-based journalist, awardingwinning travel writer and long-time contributor to Traveller. He has visited and written about almost 100 countries over 20 years. Steve spent his youth hiking up active volcanoes, skydiving out of planes and once plummeted down the world’s most dangerous road on a rickety mountain bike. These days, he loves ambling around photogenic towns, idling at pavement cafes and taking scenic train journeys. Once a cruise skeptic, Steve is now a full-blown cruise convert. He loves only having to unpack once and waking up in a new port almost every day.
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Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
DAY 1
DAY 2
BARCELONA, SPAIN
TARRAGONA, SPAIN
Step on board Viking’s newest ship Viking Jupiter and settle into your stateroom. This afternoon you’ll have the opportunity to learn more about some of Gaudi’s most famous sites in Barcelona including the Sagrada Familia. This evening, meet acclaimed food writer Jill Dupleix, award-wining restaurant critic Terry Durack, long-time Traveller contributor Steve McKenna and Barcelona-based architect Rodrigo Aguirre, an expert on Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia Basilica column design, and your fellow travellers for a welcome meeting and dinner at Marea Alta.
This morning, Barcelona-based architect Rodrigo Aguirre will deliver an exclusive Traveller Tours talk on the architectural masterpieces of Barcelona, and the role of Gaudí in building historical and contemporary Barcelona, including the world famous Sagrada Família Basilica. Afterwards, spend the afternoon at leisure enjoying your ship’s many facilities or take the shuttle into Barcelona and explore the city on your own.
Traveller Tours Inclusion 12:30pm Gaudi architecture tour including Park Guell and Sagrada Familia. Meet at the Pier. 6:00pm Meet and greet with your experts and fellow Traveller Tours guests, Cinema 2, Star Theatre 7:00pm Dinner at Marea Alta accompanied by your four Traveller Tours experts
Traveller Tours Inclusion 11:00am Presentation from architect Rodrigo Aguirre, Cinema 2, Star Theatre
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Cartagena, Spain
Viking Cruise
DAY 3
DAY 5
MURCIA, SPAIN
CRUISE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
Uncover the rich history of Cartagena, brimming with remarkable architecture that ranges from Roman times to the 20th-century Art Nouveau period. Outside the city, marvel at the beauty of the sanctuary of the Virgin of Fuensanta, Murcia’s patron saint, and the baroque- and gothic-style cathedral. Alternatively, explore Cartagena’s impressive Roman Theatre and Roman Forum.
Sail through the famed Strait of Gibraltar into the Alboran Sea, the westernmost portion of the Mediterranean. Enjoy the day onboard at your leisure. As you sail, you might find your inner calm with yoga on the Sports Deck. Enjoy a spa treatment or lounge by the Main Pool with its retractable roof and enjoy a cocktail at the Aquavit Bar.
DAY 4
GRANADA (MÁLAGA), SPAIN Málaga, the Birthplace of Pablo Picasso, is the gateway to Andalucia, a seductive province of rolling hills and endless olive groves. An included Viking tour features the 11th-century Alcazaba Palace, residence of Arabian caliphs, the ancient Moorish Gibralfaro Castle, the renaissance Málaga Cathedral and Picasso’s birthplace. Or, choose to explore the mighty Alhambra palace in Granada, one of Spain’s most treasured sites.
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Traveller Tours Inclusion 3:00pm Traveller Tours exclusive Porto talk from Viking guest lecturer, Cinema 2, Star Theatre
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Porto, Portugal
DAY 6
DAY 7
PORTO, PORTUGAL
CRUISE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN
Today, dock in Leixões, a coastal city with a rich history, located near the extraordinary city of Porto. Enjoy a walking tour and port tasting in the company of Jill, Terry, Steve, a local guide and your fellow Traveller Tours guests. Be enchanted by Porto’s architecture and culture, including a visit to the 18th-century Clérigos Tower and a walk down Praça da Liberdade to the São Bento Railway Station, with its beautiful azulejo tile mosaics. Continue via Rua das Flores (Flower Street) with its lively cafés, restaurants and shops until you reach the Palácio da Bolsa, Porto’s historic stock exchange. By coach, cross the 19th-century Dom Luís I Bridge to the wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia.
Enjoy a day at your leisure. You might sample the onboard entertainment or perhaps soothe your body with a hot sauna contrasted with a few minutes in the refreshingly chilled air of the Snow Grotto. This afternoon enjoy a Traveller Tours exclusive with Jill, Terry and Steve as they host a talk and Q&A on the art of food and travel writing, and places and experiences they believe will pique the interest of Traveller readers.
Traveller Tours Inclusion
Traveller Tours Inclusion
9:45am Porto walking tour and port wine tasting shore excursion accompanied by Jill, Terry and Steve
3:00pm Traveller Tours exclusive Q&A with Jill, Terry and Steve on the art of travel writing, Cinema 2, Star Theatre
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Falmouth Harbour
DAY 8
DAY 9
FALMOUTH, ENGLAND
PORTSMOUTH, ENGLAND
Arrive in Falmouth, the gateway to the dramatic county of Cornwall, in the most southwestern corner of England. Admire the grey granite architecture and hilltop college of this picturesque port city overlooking the deep, scenic harbour, famous as the backdrop for countless films and television series. Henry VIII built Pendennis Castle here to defend his country from France and the Holy Roman Empire.
Sail between Napoleonic forts in the Solent Strait and pass stunning citadels at the harbour entrance to picturesque Portsmouth. In the company of Jill, Terry, Steve and your fellow Traveller Tours guests, enjoy an exclusive visit to Winchester Distillery Company, a premium spirit producer which prides themselves in making small batches of gin using traditional methods. Embrace the opportunity to sample a range of gins produced in the distillery before heading into Winchester city centre for some time at leisure before returning to your ship.
Traveller Tours Inclusion 9:00am Winchester Distillery tour, tasting and Winchester town visit
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Paris, France
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
DAY 10
DAY 12
PARIS (LE HAVRE), FRANCE
AMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS
Arrive in historic Le Havre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on a Seine River estuary. This historic port city is the gateway to the pleasures of Paris, so you’ll take a scenic drive through the countryside of Normandy and into the heart of the French capital. You’ll have time on your own to ascend the Eiffel Tower for sweeping city views or to marvel at the Gothic glory of Notre Dame Cathedral.
Amsterdam, the city of canals, was born from the Dutch Golden Age, when merchants fed their coffers from the Indonesian spice trade and commissioned great works of art that you can see at its Rijksmuseum. Today, in the company of Jill, Terry, Steve, your local guide and your fellow Traveller Tours guests, enjoy a culinary tour of Amsterdam. This food lover’s walk will take you through beautiful canal paths, stunning waterside homes and cozy shops in the Jordaan District. You’ll get to sample traditional Dutch herring and learn about how this delicacy is prepared; visit a typical Dutch café and try a local beer; and learn about Holland’s unique cheeses, enjoying a taste of each paired with wine.
DAY 11
BRUGES, BELGIUM Call on Zeebrugge, Belgium’s most important fishing port and your doorway to canal-laced Bruges, one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities. Bruges’ early textile trade made it one of the wealthiest trading towns in the world, and the world’s most important port. You can explore its cobblestone streets, ascend its towering belfry in the Market Square for sweeping views of restored guild houses and tree-shaded squares, and shop for lace and chocolate.
Traveller Tours Inclusion 2:00pm Culinary Amsterdam excursion accompanied by Jill, Terry and Steve
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Copenhagen, Denmark
DAY 13
DAY 14
SCENIC CRUISING: KIEL CANAL
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
This afternoon, sail through Germany’s Kiel Canal, a European cruising milestone. Since 1914, ships have used this engineering marvel to shave 250 nautical miles off their journey from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. As you cruise, enjoy canal-side sights from the deck of your ship. This evening, join Jill, Terry, Steve and your fellow Traveller Tours guests for farewell drinks.
The Danish capital was founded as a Viking fishing village and boasts more than 850 years of history. Spend the day exploring the fairytale city, including the neighbourhood of Nyhavn, famed for its brightly coloured houses and once the home of Hans Christian Andersen, best known as a writer of fairytales. Discover the rococo interiors of Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Danish royal family or visit the ornate Kronborg Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Indulge in the city’s food halls or whet your palate at one of its many Michelin-starred restaurants.
DAY 15
Traveller Tours Inclusion 6:00pm Traveller Tours exclusive cocktail function, drinks and canapes provided onboard in The Wintergarden
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COPENHAGEN, DENMARK Disembark your ship this morning and transfer to the airport for your return flight home or stay on to explore more of Copenhagen’s charms. 13
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Jill Dupleix & Terry Durack
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JILL & TERRY’S GOURMET GUIDE TO EUROPE Secret addresses, hot tips and great food and wine experiences from Australia’s most famous foodie couple, Jill Dupleix and Terry Durack. Welcome aboard! We’re looking forward to meeting you at our welcome dinner in Barcelona, and on our special excursions and shared times on board throughout the cruise. In the meantime, here are some hot tips for the exciting places we’ll be visiting – with a few extras for our embarkation port (Barcelona) and disembarkation port (Copenhagen), in case you’re adding a day or two either end. Jill & Terry
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DAY 1
BARCELONA Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is an enchanting seaside city with boundless culture, fabled architecture and a world-class drinking and dining scene. The best way to explore Barcelona is on foot, stopping at regular intervals to do a deep-dive into one of the best ever ways of eating and drinking – tapas. Here are our favourites (and remember the locals usually lunch around 2pm, and dine around 9pm or 10pm)...
La Pineda To experience ‘old’ Barcelona, drop in to this tiny food shop, which turns into a tapas bar at night, and order a ‘vermut’ (vermouth) from the barrel in the corner. Carrer de Muntaner, 70 xarcuterialapineda.com Mercat de Sant Josep (La Boqueria) La Boqueria, the market that is the beating heart of Barcelona, is a must. It’s a bit of a bunfight, but even if you just buy a paper cone of jamon, do it. Find a seat at one of the always-busy lunch counters – especially El Quim de la Boqueria and Bar Pinoxto. La Rambla, 91 +34 933-182584 boqueria.barcelona
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Local wines
Sagrada Familia
Flamenco dancer
Tapas bowls
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Tapas 24 Just off the graceful Passeig de Gracia, this tiny basement tapas bar is slightly mad, always busy and always fun. The brainchild of clever Barcelona chef, Carles Abellan, it puts out an all-day parade of genius snacks such as truffle sandwiches with mozzarella and Iberico ham, and chocolate mousse on toast with olive oil and salt. Tip: Don’t miss la bomba, a ball of mashed potato stuffed with meat ragu covered in tomato salsa. Carrer Diputació 269, 08007 Eixample Tel. +34 93 488 0977
Tapas 24
Fine dining
Local seafood
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Bodega 1900 Albert and Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame have created a deeply charming homage to the traditional vermouth bars of their parents’ day, as part of their growing restaurant empire in this once-unfashionable Barcelona suburb. Book ahead for the house-made vermouth, Iberico ham, sautéed razor clams and pop-in-the-mouth spherical green olives. Carrer de Tamarit, 91 08015 Barcelona bodega1900.com
Cerveceria Catalana This place is always packed, with everyone standing at the bar eating montaditos, or sitting down at the back drinking jugs of sangria (book ahead or put your name down and wait) Good prices, satisfying food. The arroz negro black rice with cuttlefish is good, and they do a fried-eggs-and-chips thing they toss at the table that is totally delicious. Carrer de Majorca, 236 +34 932 160368 cerveceriacatalana.com
Restaurant Estimar A small and elegant restaurant, where some of the best seafood in the city is prepared before your eyes. Warning: its back alley location is extremely difficult to find! The place to try Spanish specialties such as the very weird percebes (gooseneck barnacles) and highly prized baby eels. Tip: the cheesecake dessert is unbelieveable! Carrer de Sant Antoni dels Sombrerers, 3 +34 679-363915 restaurantestimar.com
Reserva Iberica Walk in to this boutique jamoneria and you’ll smell it immediately – the finest jamon in Barcelona, hand-sliced to order. Grab a stool and order a platter, and maybe some cheese and a glass of fine wine. Rambla Catalunya, 61 +34 902 11 26 41 reservaiberica.com
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DAY 3
MURCIA If you’re not heading off to Murcia for the afternoon, consider a slow stroll through the charming and ancient little city of Cartagena, with its extraordinarily well-preserved Roman amphitheatre.
LOCAL DISHES TO TRY IN MURCIA Pastel de Carne Meat pie made with delicate filo pastry.
Bodega La Fuente This heavily tiled bar is Terry’s anchovy heaven. La Fuente buys fat, fresh, silvery anchovies from Santona in Cantabria, then buries them under sea salt for up to 8 months. Watch as nimble-fingered staff fillet anchovies in their hundreds, ready for you to order as tapas. Eat standing up at the bar or at a tall table, with a cold beer from the on-site microbrewery taps. Calle Jara, 27, +34 868 047 322 bodegalafuente.com
Ensalada Murciana Salad of tomatoes, boiled egg and tuna. Entierro Pub classic of anchovies, crisps and olives.
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Spanish tapas
Spanish pottery
Cartagena Roman Theatre and ruins
Bodega La Fuente
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DAY 4
GRANADA In the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, Granada is known for grand examples of medieval architecture dating back to the Moorish occupation, with its most famous being the Alhambra. Granada is amazing but if you choose to stay in Malaga, prepare to lose your heart to its tree-lined roads, rather jolly Cathedral, brilliant markets and modernismo art galleries. We go straight to the historic Atarazanas fresh food market, then on to the charming, almost calming, Picasso Museum in the Palacio de Buenavista. Then we collapse at the historic El Pimpi bar for a cold beer in the sun, while we work out where to go for lunch – probably one of these‌
Beher Malaga A fast-casual jamon bar that does the best jamon rolls to eat there or take away. Plaza Carbon, 3 +34 952 22 03 59 El Refectorium This fine old-school restaurant next to the city bull ring does things properly. The bar is packed five-deep with locals, and the dining room offers a very civilised way to eat your way through flash-cooked local seafood, slowcooked rice dishes revueltos esparrago (scrambled eggs with asparagus), gambas (baby prawns) and lamb cutlets hot off the grill. Calle Cervantes, 8 +34 952 21 89 90 elrefectorium.es
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Picasso Museum
Local seafood
Walking tours
Alhambra, Granada
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DAY 6
PORTO Join us on a walking tour and port tasting today through the rich mosaic-tiled eighteenthcentury buildings of Porto. We’re keen to find out more about port ourselves, and what the differences are between white port, ruby port, tawny port, late bottled vintage, colheita, blends, and vintage port. (Pay attention, we’ll be asking questions later!) Head to Nata Lisboa (291 Rua des Flores) for the best Portuguese custard tart. The best petiscaria (Portuguese-style tapas bar) is Petiscaria Santo Antonio, Rua da Assuncao, 40.
FOUR MAIN STYLES OF PORT Ruby Port A younger vintage that retains more of its natural colour. Tawny Port Aged at least two years, sweet with nut and caramel flavours. White Port Produced from white grapes mainly grown on the upper slopes of the Douro Valley. Rosè Port A relatively new variation, produced in a similar way to rosè wine.
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Port wine caves
Port wine tastings
Portugeuse tart
Porto harbour
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DAY 8
FALMOUTH Falmouth is the gateway to Cornwall, so we hope you’re up for a Cornish pastie either at Choak’s, or the Dog & Smuggler, next to The King’s Pipe (a tall chimney on Custom House Quay where contraband tobacco used to be incinerated by the excisemen). There’s a Rick Stein fish-and-chippy in the National Maritime Museum and good local seafood at the Gylly Beach Café, Gylly Beach, and good quayside bars at Custom House Quay itself.
JH and M Choak The Choak family has been making real Cornish pasties to the same traditional recipe since 1948. Meaty with top quality beef skirt, chock-a-block with veggies and with that proper peppery undercurrent, this what a proper Cornish pastie is all about. (Order the classic, not one of the ‘modern’ ones). 30 Killigrew Street, Falmouth 01326 312426 choakpasties.co.uk
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Cornish pasties
Cornwall
Swanpool beach
Fish and chips
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DAY 9
PORTSMOUTH G & T anyone? As a Traveller Tour exclusive, we’re off for a tasting session and tour of the artisanal Winchester Distillery Company, famous for its hand-made, small-batch gins using local botanicals (it’s most famous gin is inspired by King Arthur’s Round Table). There’ll be time to explore this historic town as well. Or if you stay in Portsmouth (known as Pompey to the locals) and need a bite to eat, we suggest a pie and a pint at the oldest pub in town, The Dolphin, or for fine dining, Restaurant 27. Ps. No open-toed shoes or high heels for the Distillery tour, please.
Winchester Distillery’s Summer Garden G&T 50ml Hampshire Summer Garden Gin 150ml Fevertree Mediterranean tonic water Sliced strawberries Basil leaves to garnish Plenty of ice Method Fill a highball or copa glass with ice and add the strawberries and ‘spanked’ basil. Pour over the gin, add the tonic and gently stir. Serve immediately. Enjoy outdoors in the garden or on the terrace, or wherever you can see some blue sky and catch a breeze from the summer heat.
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Winchester Distillery
Botanical Gin, Winchester Distillery
Portsmouth Spinnaker Tower
Winchester Cathedral
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DAY 10
PARIS If you’re staying in Le Havre for the day, your best bet for lunch is the hustly, bustly La Taverne Paillette, a Bavarian bistro that will give you a rollicking taste of Normandy via Bavaria. But we’re thinking most of us will head for a taste of Paris, so here are some thoughts for lunch. Lunch in Paris could mean a classic crepe at Breizh café; charcuterie and cheese at Le Comptoir; a quiche at the popular patisserie Angelina on Rue de Rivoli; oysters and steak frites at the magnificent Brasserie Bofinger; or roast chicken at Le Coq Rico up in Montmartre.
Add in a visit to Jill’s favourite secret address in Paris, Astier de Villatte, for exquisitely hand-made porcelain shaped from black terracotta clay finished with a milky-white glaze. Terry suggests the brand-new foodie hub, Beaupassage, a secret hide-away of pastry shops, bakeries and ice-cream shops on the Left Bank that stars Yannick Alleno, Anne-Sophie Pic, and Pierre Herme. Grab an ice-cream, stay for a drink, pick up a chic lunch, and people-watch.
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Ducasse Sur Seine
French bakery
Breizh Café 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd +33 1 42 72 13 77
Astier de Villatte 172 Rue St Honore astierdevillatte.com
Le Comptoir du Relais 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th 01 43 29 12 05
Beaupassage 53-59 rue de Grenelle, 7th beaupassage.fr
Angelina 226 Rue de Rivoli, 1st +33 1 42 60 82 00 angelina-paris.fr Brasserie Bofinger 7 Rue de la Bastille, 4th +33 1 42 72 87 82 bofingerparis.com Le Coq Rico 98 Rue Lepic, 18th +33 1 42 59 82 89 lecoqrico.com
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Local desserts
HOT TIP! Book ahead for lunch on the new Ducasse Sur Seine, the first fully electric boat on the River Seine, with food from the most Michelin-starred chef in the world, Alain Ducasse. Launched in September following an estimated 11 million Euro investment, the 300-tonne Ducasse Sur Seine brings together views of the Eiffel Tower and the highest level of contemporary French cuisine (from 100 euros per person but what a way to see Paris). ducassesurseine.com
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DAY 11
BRUGES With its cobblestoned streets and narrow waterways, Bruges would melt anyone’s heart. Chocolate lovers, be on red alert – this is your kind of place. With its cobblestoned streets and narrow waterways, Bruges would melt anyone’s heart. Chocolate lovers, be on red alert – with over 50 chocolate shops in town, this is your kind of place. Known as the Venice of the North, Bruges is one of Europe’s best-preserved cities, its historic centre added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2000. Markt, in the heart of ancient Bruges is lined with sidewalk cafes and dominated by the 83-metre high belfry, the Belfort. Feel free to climb the 366 steps to the top, to work off that hot chocolate.
Dumon The best chocolatier in Bruges is run by the Dumon family, with ultra-smooth, ultra-creamy chocolates made daily on the premises that will steal their way into your on-board cabin. Simon Stevinplein 11, Bruges 050 33 33 60 chocolatierdumon.be Brasserie Raymond A typical brasserie with bustling waiters, red banquette seating, wood paneling, and everything from steak frites to chocolate mousse. Eiermarkt, 5 +325 033 7848 brasserie-raymond.be
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Chocolate desserts
Local mussels
Poules Moules Like Brussels, Bruges is brilliant for mussels. Poules Moules, on one of Bruge’s most charming squares, cook their mussels five different ways to serve with your choice of six different sauces. Simon Stevinplein, 9 +32 5 034 6119 poulesmoules.be
Horse-drawn carriage, Bruges
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The Old Chocolate House Here’s where to go for a hot chocolate. Choose from dark, milk or white chocolate and whisk as much you like into a giant mug of hot milk. Match it to golden waffles in the oldfashioned tea-room upstairs. Mariastraat 1a, Bruges. +32 468 22 62 31 oldchocolatehouse.be
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DAY 12
AMSTERDAM Forget everything you thought you knew about Amsterdam: it’s not all tulips, blue-and-white Delftware and cheese. Modern Amsterdam is full of quirky fashion, glamorous restaurants, lust worthy art, cutting-edge design, Canalside cafes, cosy bars, lush organic markets, young chefs, and the best apple cake (appeltaart) in the world.
Worst Wijncafé Not worst as in ‘worst’. Worst as in ‘sausage’ and wijn, as in ‘wine’. Charming and casual. Barentszstraat, 171 020 625 6167deworst.nl Wil Graanstra Friteshuis Head for the market to try Amsterdam’s favourite street snack: freshly fried potato chips in a paper cone, with mayonnaise. Westermarkt 11, 1016 DH Amsterdam, Netherlands Ron Gastrobar An elegant neo-bistro renowned for its interesting contemporary food and bbq dry-aged steaks. Sophialaan, 55 020 496 1943 rongastrobar.nl
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Organic markets
Traditional bikes
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Dutch cheese
Hoppe If you want to try a traditional Amsterdam ‘brown bar’ complete with sawdust on the floor, join the happy crowd on a pew at the 348 year old Hoppe bar, and ask for a glass of the local Amstel. Spui 18-20, Tel 31 20 420 4420 cafehoppe.com
Foodhallen When you can’t decide what you want to eat - this former tram depot is now a jam-packed food hall with all the great dishes of Dutch cuisine under the one roof – plus a gin and tonic bar and a beer bar. Bellamyplein, 51 +31 6 29265037 foodhallen.nl
Haring & Zo Eating traditional salt cured herring “au naturel” on the street with raw onion and pickle on the side is still one of the great foodie joys of this exciting city. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 06 51952882 haringenzo.nl
Café t’Smalle A canalside terrace, a charming interior, and a truly great cinnamon-dusky apple tart. Egelantiersgracht, 12 Jordaan t-smalle.nl
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DAY 13
COPENHAGEN In the past decade or so, Denmark has become one of the great gastronomy hubs of the world, with no fewer than 16 restaurants listed in the 2019 Michelin Guide in Copenhagen alone. The New Nordic wave of modern cooking unleashed upon the world by Rene Redzepi of Copenhagen’s Noma is one of the most powerful driving forces on 21st century dining, inspiring countless chefs to work with the seasonal and foraged ingredients of their own land, water and soil. What a perfect city in which to complete our spectacular Gaudí to Gourmet cruise – and we wish you happy, safe and delicious travels from here on.
HOT TIP! It might sound crazy to go to Denmark to eat Mexican food, but former Noma chef Rosio Sanchez is wowing the foodie crowd with her casual taqueria Hija de Sanchez, and new cantina, Sanchez, with hand-made corn tortilla grilled over coals. Hija de Sanchez, Slagterboderne, 8. hijadesanchez.com Sanchez, Istedgage, 60 lovesanchez.com
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Restaurant Noma
The Little Mermaid, Copenhagen
Harbour, Copenhagen
Schøennemann
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Noma
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Craft beer
Noma For three years, Rene Redzepi’s Noma restaurant was named the best in the world. This new incarnation is a game-changer with everything made by hand, in-house. One of the truly great dining experiences in the world – very independent of thought. Strandgade 93, 1401 Copenhagen, +45 3296 3297 noma.dk Barr Schnitzel! Craft beer! Danish meatballs! A lovely relaxed Danish eatery from Thorsten Schmidt, in the old whaling warehouse that once housed the acclaimed NOMA restaurant, with classic Danish cuisine revisited with a light hand. Strandgade 93, Copenhagen. restaurantbarr.com
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Danish smorrebrod
DØP The humble Danish hotdog goes organic. Next to Rundetaarn, Købmagergade 52A, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3020 4025 Restaurant 108 Not far from the above ( and in the same family), experience contemporary Danish dining at its best. Excellent choice for those who couldn’t get a booking at Noma. The Corner precinct also has a fabulous café for coffee and Danish pastries for breakfast. Strandgade 108, Copenhagen. 108.dk Ved Stranden 10 Beautiful and atmospheric natural wine bar with great attitude. Ved Stranden 10, 1061 Copenhagen, +45 3542 4040 vedstranden10.dk
Aaamans A sort of hip Danish canteen with some genuinely interesting contemporary interpretations of smorrebrod, such as beef tartare with tarragon emulsion studded with potato crisps. Øster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 Copenhagen Ø, +45 3555 3344 aamanns.dk Schøennemann The classic choice for Copenhagen’s finest smorrebrod, which opened its little wooden doors in 1877. Herrings, schnapps, fried smoked eel with scrambled egg on rye you can’t go wrong. Hauser Plads,16. restaurantschonnemann.dk
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