V I K I NG
E X PL OR ER
SOCIET Y NEWS
Christmas Edition Christmas at Downton Abbey Traditions and rituals of Scandinavian Yule Magical Christmas Market Cruises of Europe I S S U E 14
C H R I S T M A S 2021
Pictured here: Traditional paper star lantern decoration, Cologne Christmas Market, Germany
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WELCOME TO
VIKING EXPLOR ER SOCIET Y NEWS
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s the world slowly starts to awaken, there’s a sparkle in the air as Christmas approaches for another year.
A cherished time of year for so many. The glimmer of Christmas lights, the sounds of carols by candlelight and long summer days at the beach, we enjoy cheerful gatherings spent in the warm circle of family and friends. In this issue of Viking Explorer Society News, we take you on a festive journey around the world. Join Lady Carnarvon as she conjures up the magic of Christmas at Highclere Castle, we explore Christmas along the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers and share our Scandinavian traditions from this special time of year. We wish you and your families a wonderful holiday season, may you experience much light and laughter and we look forward to welcoming you back on board in 2022. Warmest regards,
Michelle Black Managing Director, Viking Australia & New Zealand
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CONTENTS 8 CHRISTMAS AT THE CASTLE
V I K I NG
Experience the magic of Christmas at Highclere Castle — the setting of Downton Abbey
E X PL OR ER
SOCIET Y NEWS
12 NORDIC STYLE CHRISTMAS On the cover: Norwegian reindeer, Tromsø, Norway
Christmas Edition Christmas at Downtown Abbey Traditions and rituals of Scandinavian Yule Magical Christmas Market Cruises of Europe I S S U E 14
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C H R I S T M A S 2021
Reindeer are nomadic diurnal animals, they live in herds and can travel thousands of kilometres each year.
Learn about the traditions and rituals of Yule — Christmas in Scandinavia
18 NISSE ELVES
The mischievous mythological creatures from Nordic folklore
20 CHRISTMAS MARKET CRUISES
Explore cultural capitals and fairy-tale villages as you sail Europe’s most iconic rivers immersed in the spirit of Christmas
24 ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER
Be spellbound by Christmas and captivated by the magical sights of one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns
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24 26 4 8 HOURS IN BUDAPEST
One of Europe’s great cultural capitals, explore the sophistication of both Buda and Pest
32 CELEBRATE THE FESTIVE SEASON
Set sail with Viking during the festive season — there is no better way to celebrate Christmas
34 4 8 HOURS IN BARCELONA
Offering everything from Mediterranean beaches to exquisite dining and that renowned eclectic architecture
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Welcome to VIKING.TV Unlock your curious spirit and explore Christmas around the world with our selection of interviews, lectures, musical performances and more from the comfort of your home
A NORWEGIAN CHRISTMAS WITH VIKING GUIDES EKATERINA AND STIAN
Journey to the Norwegian village of Bærums Verk with our Viking guides Ekaterina Bagreeva and Stian Sandberg Hansen, and watch as they share some of Norway’s festive Christmas traditions. Uncover the mystery behind a mythological creature from Scandinavian folklore, learn about the custom of lighting Advent candles on Sundays, experience Lille Julaften—or Little Christmas Eve—and sit down to a holiday dinner with Ekaterina and Stian. 6
HIGHCLERE AT CHRISTMAS WITH LADY CARNARVON
Deck the halls of Highclere Castle with boughs of holly! Spend Christmas day with Lady Carnarvon as she discusses how the holidays are celebrated at her great English estate. Revel in the magic of the season while the countess shares the traditions and rituals that take place at Highclere every year. Prepare to be delighted when you tune in to this holiday special at the “real Downton Abbey.”
CHRISTMAS COOKING WITH WRITER KAREN S. BURNS-BOOTH
Follow us to the edge of the scenic Snowdonia National Park in Wales, and step inside the home of author, recipe developer and food stylist Karen S. Burns-Booth for a taste of her holiday culinary traditions. Karen joined us on our 2019 Viking World Cruise as a guest chef, and now, she invites us into her kitchen to show us how she makes her favourite Christmas recipes—including mince pies and a cheese tree.
VIKING
GLÜHWEIN (HOT MULLED WINE)
Around the Christmas season, public houses in nearly every European town offer mulled wine as a delicious antidote to the season's chill. To warm up on a stormy evening or put yourself in a celebratory mood, you can make your own glühwein at home. Or, visit Europe on one of our late-fall Rhine or Danube cruises for an unforgettable holiday season experience.
CHRISTMAS AT SEA WITH VIKING GUEST LECTURER JOHN TURKINGTON
Discover how mariners have experienced the holidays over the ages as Viking guest lecturer John Turkington shares his intriguing presentation “Christmas at Sea.” Get an intimate glimpse into the lives of sailors and learn about their choice of music, menus and books while they navigate the high seas during Christmas.
SISSEL SUNDAYS: CHRISTMAS
Start getting into the spirit of the holidays as Norwegian national treasure and Viking Jupiter godmother Sissel Kyrkjebø sings the classic Christmas songs “Christmas Time is Here,” and “Silent Night”.
G o online: Discover more Christmas videos at viking.tv viking.com
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CHRISTMAS at the CASTLE
To celebrate the publication of her new book, Lady Carnarvon conjures up the magic of Christmas at Highclere, her historic home and the setting for Downton Abbey
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How far in advance do you start preparations for Christmas at Highclere? We plan our events in the summer and start making our decorations in October along with the Christmas pudding and Christmas cake. Then in late November the trees and the decorations go up.
a twinkling, festive entrance for visitors. We have others in the courtyard and then about eight inside in the Dining Room, Library, Music Room, Drawing Room, Smoking Room and hall.
Tell us more about the huge Christmas tree in the saloon. It is usually 20 feet tall and is cut from a local farm. On the appointed day all the staff help out as it has to be carried in by hand and raised using a series of ropes and pulleys. It takes another two days to decorate so it is a team effort from all the Highclere elves.
Do you have any favourite family recipes? So many! I absolutely love the traditional Christmas Day lunch of roast turkey with all the delicious accompaniments and a large ham to slice hot or cold. But I also enjoy using up leftovers in dishes such as turkey rissoles or frying slices of Christmas pudding gently in butter. After Christmas I crave something lighter such as fennel, blood orange and walnut salad.
How many other trees do you display around the estate? We have around another 40 trees, some which line the drive and offer
Can you tell us a bit more about your Christmas Day? Usually we start with a dog walk, then it is back to the castle for a breakfast
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of scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, porridge and toast. Then we all head to church for the Christmas service before sitting down to a fantastic Christmas lunch. After lunch we open our presents and watch the Queen’s speech – much like many families around the country.
Left to right: Highclere Castle in the snow; Lady Carnarvon welcomes you in
And how do you celebrate Boxing Day and New Year? On Boxing Day we have a traditional shoot followed by a warming stew or pie for lunch. On New Year’s Eve we have a party with traditional Scottish reeling. Our guests are welcomed by a piper in immaculate white spats, swinging kilt, a bearskin of a hat and a warm jacket. The first reel is inevitably the Dashing White Sargent in which guests have to line up in groups of three. It is the most enormous fun and no one is left out, whatever their age. 9
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Can you describe a few of the events happening this year? Our Christmas events this year really take their inspiration from the themes in my book Christmas at Highclere, from tips on preparation and planning, to decorating and shopping, singing carols together, enjoying Christmas afternoon teas, and dining with us in the State Dining Room. We hope children will come and find Santa’s Grotto whilst, as a finale, Charles Dickens’ great, great grandson, Gerald Dickens, will join us to read excerpts from A Christmas Carol.
Top to bottom: Estate staff carry the tree inside; turkey is a highlight of lunch; Lady Carnarvon wraps presents by the fire
Are there any Christmases that have stood out for you? I think the first one Geordie and I hosted. My five sisters and their families came to stay and it was a hilarious experience. The mattresses were 150 years old and incredibly lumpy, they all put their feet
What is your top Christmas tradition at Highclere? I have to say I love Christmas Eve when my husband reads the poem Twas the Night Before Christmas to the assembled children sitting around him on the floor, just like his father did before him.
through the sheets because they were so ancient. The hot water came on at all the wrong times and my husband looked askance at the spike in electricity as all of us blow-dried our hair at 6pm. We soon worked out what we needed to update – the most pressing one being heaters for the bedrooms.
VIKING
LADY CARNARVON’S FENNEL, BLOOD ORANGE & WALNUT SALAD INGREDIENTS: 2 bulbs of fennel 2 blood oranges 60g walnuts 10ml walnut oil and a further 10ml for a dressing 100g wild rocket
1 Peel and wash the whole fennel bulb. 2 Cut straight down the middle and remove the heart (the hard centre near the root). Now slice as thinly as you can – we use a mandolin for this.
3 Peel the blood oranges and segment and put the flesh segments to one side, saving any juice that comes your way, as this can be used later.
4 Wash the rocket in cold water and shake so it is as dry as possible.
5 Place a frying pan on a high heat and add the walnut oil. When hot, carefully add the walnuts until nicely toasted on both sides. Remove from the pan and allow to cool.
6 Time to toss the salad together. Take a big bowl add
the rocket, walnuts and fennel and dress with walnut oil, then gently toss together. Try not to handle the salad too much, season with cracked black pepper and sea salt and any remaining blood orange juice.
7 Divide into four separate bowls and then add a few blood orange segments to each one. SERVES 4
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Nordic Style
CHRISTMAS
Mischievous elves, homemade glogg, gingerbread and real fir trees with simple handmade decorations – Jul in Scandinavia is a precious time for family and friends to come together and celebrate. God Jul!
Pictured here: Wild reindeer are a common sight in Norway
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As in many secular countries, Christmas in Scandinavia is very much about being with family and friends, eating good food, getting out in the snow and singing traditional songs. In fact, Swedes, Norwegians and Danes have never adopted the word Christmas and refer to the holidays as Jul (Yule), its 'original' pagan name. Christmas falls within days of the winter solstice, which is believed to have been when the Vikings held their midwinter sacrifice celebration. But some historians now say that it is more likely to have taken place in January, which is when they appeased the gods by slaughtering animals and putting on a grand feast. Throughout Scandinavia, as elsewhere in Western nations, the pagan Yule rituals were adopted by the church when the area became Christian from the 11 ODs and onward, and today they are a mixture of heathen and religious celebrations, with additions throughout the centuries. These include the Christmas tree which started becoming common in Scandi homes in the 1700s and advent candles, which arrived in the early 20th century and can now be seen in every window come December. Sweden, Finland, Denmark and Norway all have 24 December as their main day of celebration, when families gather and presents are handed out. What most Scandinavians hold dearest at Christmas time is the food, and it is at the dinner table where we find slight variations in the way they celebrate. viking.com
Clockwise from left: The colder months in Scandinavian countries can be particularly harsh yet also stunningly beautiful. Further out into the countryside you’ll see cabins set among snowcovered forests-a picture-perfect scene of a Nordic winter; A famous depiction of Harald Fairhair, the first king of Norway who ruled from the 9th to the 10th century-the word Jul was first used in an ode to him; wooden woven hear decoration
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Clockwise from left: A traditional Scandinavian Christmas table; Snow covers the village of Sjøholt, Norway, famous for the 19thcentury Ørskog church; Nisse (elves) for sale at a Christmas market, Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen, Denmark
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The Christmas smorgasbord, called Julbord (Christmas table), or Julfrukost (Christmas Lunch) is of the highest importance to many, and the Swedes possibly more than others-although a Dane or a Finn might disagree. The Swedish Julbord is essentially a smorgasbord buffet, which is eaten in ‘rounds’. A common Julbord session will include two fish rounds, the first with several types of pickled herring, then another with salmon: cured and smoked. The cold cuts The Christmas smorgasbord, called Julbord (Christmas table), or Julfrukost (Christmas Lunch) is of the highest importance to many, and the Swedes possibly more than others-although a Dane or a Finn might disagree. The Swedish Julbord is essentially a smorgasbord buffet, which is eaten in ‘rounds’. A common Julbord session will include two fish rounds, the first with several types of pickled herring, then another with salmon: cured and smoked. The cold cuts All Scandinavian countries have a mischievous elf, a tradition dating back to the Viking era. In Norway and Denmark he’s called a nisse and has the features of a goat (Julebukk), while in Sweden he is known as a tomte. The Danes, like the Swedes, enjoy Julefrokost on several occasions throughout December-often one with work, one with the family, and one with friends, but on Christmas Eve they serve Christmas duck with sugar fried potatoes and gravy, and drink wine, only to have Julefrokost again on Christmas Day. VIKING
FESTIVE ORNAMENTS
The red and white of these simple-to-make felt decorations are incredibly effective and will add an instant Scandi look to your festive home.
YOU WILL NEED • Squares of red felt, approximately 23cm x 23cm • Scraps of white felt • Red and white stranded cotton embroidery threads • Pins and needles • Chalk or ‘disappearing’ fabric pen • A soft pencil • Small scissors
• Polyester filling or cotton wool (for the stuffing) • Narrow red, white or red and white ribbon, about 20cm per decoration • Small bells, buttons, sequins or other adornments (optional) • Red and white sewing threads (optional)
METHOD 1 Decide which festive shape you’re going to start with-maybe a heart, star, reindeer or Christmas tree-and then make a paper template. Draw round it on the felt using the soft pencil. Then cut it out, cutting just inside the pencil line, and repeat to produce a matching felt shape. 2 Now sew a decorative pattern, like a snowflake, or heart of white felt onto your red shape using tiny running stitches with one or two strands of red cotton. Or you could just add sequins or buttons. 3 Place the pair of felt pieces on top of each other, wrong sides together, and pin them in place. Cut a length of two strands of white thread and knot the end. Now do a blanket stitch around the edge (approximately 2-3mm from the edge). Carry on round the whole shape until you get to the rope,where the ribbon will be. 4 Cut a length of ribbon that is 15-20cm long, depending on preference. Fold it in half and insert the ends between the two pieces of felt,pinning them in place. Then continue stitching, taking care that the ribbon is caught by at least two stitches. Alternatively, you can sew the ribbon on the outside afterwards, turning the ends under to hide them, using matching sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery thread. 5 Stop your stitching at the appropriate corner, or else about 2cm from the start of the stitching, to leave a gap for stuffing. Push small amounts of stuffing into the decoration, using the blunt end of a pencil to help fill narrow parts like the points of the star. Then close the hole with a few tiny stitches to stop it coming undone. Hide the end of the thread in the middle of the decoration. Trim round the edges with a small pair of scissors to make the felt edges tidy-and it’s ready to hang.
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The Nordic Nisse
n Scandinavia, the Nisse is a mythological creature from Nordic folklore. These household spirits are most commonly associated with the winter solstice. Rooted in local culture, they are responsible for protecting the family and livestock on the farm from evil and misfortune. Similar in appearance to the garden gnome, they are typically short, have long white beards and wear a tall red, or brightly coloured cap. Nisse usually live in the houses and barns of farmsteads and also help with farmwork and chores.
DESPITE THEIR SMALL SIZE, NISSE POSSESSES IMMENSE STRENGTH AND POWER. They can be temperamental, are short-tempered if insulted, and easily offended, usually by carelessness, disrespect, ill-treatment of animals and lazy workers. Their retributions for naughtiness mean they will often play tricks, steal things, harm livestock, and can even devastate a farm’s fortune. Nisse traditions dating back to the 1840s stipulate that a bowl of porridge with butter should be left out on Christmas Eve to keep Nisse satisfied. In turn, accompanied by the Yule Goat (another mythological creature), they will knock on doors delivering gifts and spreading cheer.
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CHRISTMAS MARKET Cruises
A Viking river cruise immerses you in the Old World as you sail Europe’s most iconic rivers, discovering Danube gems like Vienna and Budapest and exploring storied Rhine castles
Left: The iconic Frohe Weihnachten sign at the Vienna Christmas Market, Austria viking.com
A river cruise through Europe during the Christmas season is an altogether unique experience. From Nuremburg to Vienna, Germany and Austria light up with Christmas markets offering hand-carved toys and ornaments, spicy glühwein and aromatic gingerbread. Pass through Europe’s most enchanting countries, immersing yourself in the spirit of Christmas and stopping to explore cultural capitals and fairy-tale villages. Take part in European holiday traditions and experience the region’s renowned Christmas markets. Sample tasty yuletide treats and regional delicacies such as mulled wine and roasted chestnuts as you browse colourful stalls for handcrafted ornaments and unique gifts. In Vienna, the yuletide season transforms beautiful squares into delightful Christmas markets. Festive lights illuminate the Old Town. The Schönbrunn market, set in front of the baroque Hapsburg summer palace, and Freyung market, nestled in the city centre, are the perfect destinations for unique handmade decorations. Seasonal music and choral singing provide a merry ambience to holiday festivities in Am Hof Square, while the market at Belvedere Square mixes excellent shopping opportunities with views of the stately palace and adjacent lake to create a fairytale atmosphere. The Christmas season adds another layer of beauty to the already romantic charms of Budapest. Nestled in the heart of Pest lies Vörösmarty Square, home to the city’s largest yuletide market. The enticing aroma of national specialties permeates the air as vendors display traditional and contemporary handicrafts. At the cosy St. Stephen’s Basilica market, mulled 21
wine keeps revellers warm as nightly light shows illuminate the church’s facade. Across the Danube in Buda, Old-World allure mingles with festivities in Fő Square, where seasonal events and an outdoor ice rink entertain.
The yuletide season in Düsseldorf is a feast for the senses. The air carries the scent of candied roasted almonds, a mouthwatering sweet snack, popular over the festive season. There are several Christmas markets located throughout the city. In the Old Town, burgher-style huts, modelled on the city’s traditional architecture, offer a range of tasty treats, from bratwurst to stollen, a cake-like bread filled with fruits, spices and nuts. In front of City Hall, the Handwerkermarkt offers crafts by local artists, while the Schadowmarkt lines the main shopping street amid festive store window displays. Mannheim’s Christmas market is a holiday season shopping extravaganza, centred around the city’s iconic water tower. One of Germany’s oldest and largest markets, more than 160 booths host vendors from around the world, offering handicrafts and handmade items. Beautiful glassware, and carved wooden toys and games, sit alongside Christmas lanterns, colourful baubles and ornaments, all of which are presented in quaint wooden houses. Luxurious cashmere scarves, sheepskin mittens and felt hats are the ideal purchase to take home as gifts for friends and family. Once you’ve admired the twinkling lights, local musicians and revelled in the merry atmosphere, the Christmas spirit continues onboard as you enjoy regional dining specialties, seasonal treats and more to celebrate the holiday season. 22
This page, clockwise, from top left: Düsseldorf Christmas Market; Budapest Christmas Market; traditional wooden nutcrackers; mulled wine also known as glühwein
VIKING
DISCOVER
our Christmas Market Cruises Discover our holiday departures hand-crafted to complement your regular cruise highlights with visits to some of Europe’s most delightful Christmas markets. Join us for our most cherished of holiday traditions and treat yourself to a true European Christmas. Nor th Sea THE NETHERLANDS Amsterdam The Hague Kinderdijk
Speyer Strasbourg
FRANCE
RHINE Breisach
Basel Lucerne SWITZERLAND
ITALY
8 Days | Amsterdam – Basel or vice versa from $3,495pp in Standard stateroom
Lake Como
Cruise
DANUBE WALTZ
Prague CZECH REPUBLIC
GERMANY Munich
Passau
DANUBE
SLOVAKIA
Krems
Linz
Bratislava DANUBE
Vienna
Salzburg
AUSTRIA
Budapest HUNGARY
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is 8-day itinerary reveals the best of Vienna and Budapest as well as the Th lesser known Central European cities of Bratislava and Passau, while cruising leisurely through spectacular scenery. Add in the opportunity to visit the famous Christmas markets which have brought festive charm to the banks of the Danube River for centuries. 8 Days | Budapest – Passau or vice versa from $3,695pp in Standard stateroom
Cruise
Overnight in Por t
MAIN
CZECH REPUBLIC
MAIN–DANUBE CANAL Regensburg GERMANY
ROMANTIC DANUBE
Prague
Nuremberg
Passau
Krems
DANUBE
DANUBE
Vienna AUSTRIA
Budapest HUNGARY
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ith medieval towns, grand cities and stunning scenery, this 8-day journey W on the “Blue Danube” is one you are sure to love. With the added sparkle and age-old traditions of the festive season along the Danube you will become immersed in the colour, charm and atmosphere of a European Christmas firsthand. 8 Days | Budapest – Regensburg or vice versa from $3,495pp in Standard stateroom
Cruise
Overnight in Por t
Koblenz
Cochem
Bernkastel LUXEMBOURG
Trier Reims Paris
RHINE
Mainz
MOSELLE
Speyer
GERMANY
Strasbourg FRANCE
RHINE Basel
Zürich
SWITZERLAND
Cruise
Motor Coach
Overnight in Por t
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xplore one of Europe’s best-loved rivers, the Rhine. From Basel and E Cologne to Amsterdam, this journey reveals a rich landscape of beauty and culture. As you cruise, admire the festive decorations and twinkling lights along the cobbled streets and squares – matched only by the on board festivities as we celebrate the season.
Rüdesheim
Koblenz
MOSELLE
GERMANY
RHINE
Cologne
RHINE GETAWAY
Geneva
Zermatt
PARIS TO THE SWISS ALPS
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atch as Europe transforms into a happy hive of Christmas activity with W markets in every town and market square, as you become immersed in the season with our on board celebrations. Vineyard-flanked slopes, quaint villages and historic cities, along with hotel stays in Paris and Zürich, make this 12-day cruisetour irresistible. 12 Days | Paris – Zürich or vice versa from $5,295pp in Standard stateroom
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ROTHENBURG OB DER TAUBER
Where Christmas happens all year round Follow the “Romantic Road” to one of Germany’s last remaining walled medieval towns — Rothenburg ob der Tauber, lovingly preserved, and where Christmas is celebrated all year round
Above: The colourful Käthe Wohlfahrt Gift Express bus outside the shop
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enturies ago, Rothenburg was ruled by the Holy Roman Empire. It was a busy merchant city until the Thirty Years’ War and the plague threw it into poverty. This 17thcentury stagnation froze Rothenburg in time, to be
rediscovered by German Romantics in 1802. An optional excursion to this charming town, you will see the picturesque Plönlein square and the Kriminalmuseum, stroll the castle garden and observe its system of weirs across the river. Walk along the Herrengasse, an inviting lane of old patrician houses. And see the
1466 High Altar of St. Jakob’s Church and the Gothic– Renaissance Town Hall. Perhaps one of Rothenburg’s most famous attractions is the Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas shop. Founded by Wilhelm and Kathe Wohlfahrt in 1964, from a desire to gift friends traditional music boxes VIKING
that they were unable to find outside of the Christmas period. The Rothenburg store – now their global headquarters – has been converted to a year-round Christmas village covering more than 1,400 square meters. It is home to a remarkable collection of traditional German decorations, perfectly fashioned handmade gifts, pyramids, nutcrackers, and ornaments of glass, wood and pewter, all made by creative artists and expert craftsmen. Decorating trees and displaying ornaments has been a tradition going back thousands of years. Born from the notion that beautiful decorations and green branches were thought to banish the gloomy feel of winter in the dark season. Upon entering, you are immediately spellbound by Christmas, captivated by the magical sights and sounds before you. Nearly five kilometres of tinsel and Christmas garland, with over 122,000 dazzling lights have been used to gracefully decorate the village. The heart of the village is modelled off a Franconian settlement with snow-covered houses, thousands of twinkling lights and winding cobblestone streets. A five-meter tall revolving Christmas tree, adorned with 12,500 twinkling lights and more
than a thousand glass baubles will entrance and enliven the darkest of seasons. Before you leave, finish with a photo with the colourful Käthe Wohlfahrt Gift Express bus – parked right outsite – and take home your very own original souvenir. If you’ve not had enough of Christmas, take time to explore the German Christmas Museum, the first permanent exhibition in Germany on the history of German Christmas traditions. It showcases unusual and rare Christmas decorations from the 19th and the early 20th centuries. You’ll also discover the differences between St. Nicholas and Father Christmas and learn when the first advent calendars
and wreaths appeared. Experience the joy of Christmas all year round with an optional excursion to Rothenburg ob der Tauber on our Grand European River Cruise.
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Clockwise from top: The life-size nutcracker outside the shop; see intricate models through the shop window; explore hundreds of traditional German decorations and perfectly fashioned handmade gifts; handcrafted wooden ornament
THE NETHERLANDS
The Hague
Amsterdam
GERMANY
Kinderdijk Cologne
RHINE MAIN
Koblenz Miltenberg Wertheim Würzburg Rothenburg
Cruise
Overnight in Por t
Bamberg
CZECH REPUBLIC
MAIN–DANUBE Prague CANAL Nuremberg DANUBE Krems Regensburg Passau
Melk Vienna
AUSTRIA
DANUBE Budapest HUNGARY
GETTING THERE: The 15-day Grand European Cruise itinerary sails from Amsterdam to Budapest, or in reverse. From $5,995pp in Standard stateroom o online: Visit viking.com for more information G on Grand European Cruise viking.com
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48 HOURS IN
BUDAPEST
HUNGARY
47.4979° N, 19.0402° E
Budapest
The united towns of Buda, on the west bank of the Danube, and Pest, on the east side, have forged an identity as a vitally important capital city of medieval and gothic splendour Budapest, the capital of Hungary, has a fascinatingly long and rich history. Archaeological finds have indicated that the town’s first settlement in its modern-day location was built by Celts, but a turning point in the town’s story came with the building of a Roman fort in what is now the district of Óbuda. From the 1st century BC to the 5th century AD, Western Hungary formed part of the Roman Empire, helping the province to flourish. Then in the 5th century, through a series of fierce battles, Attila, King of the Huns, succeeded the Romans and ruled the area until he died in 453 AD. The country saw continued conflict and the rule of various empires until Budapest arose out of two Bulgarian military frontier fortresses Buda and Pest, situated on the two banks of the Danube. After the Bulgarian-Hungarian Wars, Buda and Pest began their development in the 12th century, and it was only in 1873 that the formerly separate towns were integrated into one city: Budapest. This unification brought about unprecedented prosperity to the city and many public buildings were erected at that time, including the grandiose Budapest Parliament on the Pest bank of the Danube, the city’s largest church St. Stephen’s Basilica, and the Millennium Monument on Heroes’ Square. o online: Visit viking.com for more G information on cruises that go to Budapest
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WHAT TO SEE AND DO This sophisticated capital, with the conservative Buda and cosmopolitan Pest, is home to some of the most magnificent architectural gems in Europe; from Baroque to art nouveau. As well as the Parliament, St. Stephen’s and Heroes’ Square, you can visit Matthias Church dating back 500 years and the imposing and grand Hungarian State Opera. Fishermen’s Bastion is a medieval and gothic construction reminiscent of mysterious fairytales and with some of the best views of the glittering skyline. Budapest is littered with relics of its disturbed history. A city full
WHERE TO SHOP With a generation of booming young designers and a blossoming art scene, shopping in Budapest is a mix of vintage, luxury and unique underground style. If you are in the market for traditional artisanry, cutting-edge design or culinary delights, you are in for a treat. Typical folk craft includes ceramics, embroidery, painted
WHERE TO DINE From hole-in-the-wall eateries to Michelin-starred restaurants, you’ll be spoilt for choice for dining options in Budapest. Don’t miss the Great Market Hall or Fény Street Market for an intimate insight into local cuisine.
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of statues (for some of Lenin and Marx, only the plinths remain), and bullet holes and shrapnel pockmarks from the Second World War and the 1956 Hungarian Uprising, there are many poignant reminders of the past, notably the Shoes on the Danube memorial. Discover historic Castle Hill with a walking tour taking in some fantastic cityscapes, accessible by strolling across the iconic Chain Bridge and boarding the Sikló, a funicular railway built in 1870 that ascends from Clark Ádám tér to Szent György tér near the Royal Palace. A trip to Budapest would not be complete without taking a dip and relaxing in one of Budapest’s baths and people-watching on one of the main pedestrian thoroughfares, Váci Utca.
wooden toys, porcelain, and more. And traditional market stalls sit side by side with huge malls and smaller boutiques, offering plenty of diversity. The Ecseri Piac and Fovam tér markets are particularly good and worth a wander: Ecseri is a sprawling flea market full of unusual antiques and ripe for haggling, while Fovam is a threestory home to 200 stallholders who peddle wares from farmreared chickens and home-grown vegetables to locally made arts and crafts.
Undoubtedly a favourite of locals is Lángos. A fried doughy flat bread served warm and slathered with grated cheese and sour cream or garlic butter – or all three! A trip to Hungary is not complete without sampling the national dish Gulyás (Goulash). This warming broth with beef chunks and vegetables is served with warm bread and optional hot paprika.
Clockwise, from left: The centrepiece tree outside St. Stephen’s Basilica and surrounding Budapest Christmas Market, Hungary; food stalls in the market; fresh cut lavender and wreaths; traditional Hungarian goulash
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VIENNESE HOT CHOCOLATE INGREDIENTS: 3 cups low fat milk, divided 200g premium dark chocolate, grated 1 tbsp sugar 1 cup heavy cream, chilled ½ tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar
1 Place 1 cup of the milk and chocolate in a small
GARNISH: Cocoa powder or chocolate shavings
combine, and simmer on low.
saucepan over medium low; reduce to low and simmer until chocolate has melted, about 4 minutes.
2 Place granulated sugar and remaining milk in another saucepan over medium low, whisking until sugar dissolves.
3 Pour chocolate mixture into milk, whisking to 4 Combine cream and vanilla together in a large bowl; add confectioners’ sugar and beat until peaks form.
5 Pour chocolate into cups and top with a generous dollop of whipped cream and pinch of cocoa or chocolate shavings. SERVES 4
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GLÜHWEIN INGREDIENTS: 3 (750 ml) bottles dry red wine (zinfandel, pinot or Burgundy) 1 cup sugar 12 whole cloves 2 pinches allspice 2 pinches mace 473 ml brandy 946 ml dry white wine 1 orange, cut into wedges 1 lemon, cut into wedges
1 Pour red wine into a 12-litre pot (or larger) and
heat gently; add sugar and spices, stirring until sugar dissolves.
2 Add remaining ingredients and steep for 1 hour over low heat.
3 To serve, remove fruit wedges and strain out cloves, garnishing with orange slices and a cinnamon stick. Serves 12
GARNISH: 2 medium oranges, sliced 12 cinnamon sticks
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STOLLEN INGREDIENTS: 2 tsp active dry yeast 2⁄3 cup milk, warm (45°C) 1 egg ¼ cup plus 2 tbsp fine granulated sugar 1½ tsp salt 1⁄3 cup unsalted butter, softened 2¾ cup bread flour, plus flour for dusting 1⁄3 cup currants 1⁄3 cup raisins 1⁄3 cup red glacé cherries, quartered ¾ cup mixed candied citrus peel, diced 1 cup marzipan GARNISH: 1 T tbsp confectioners’ sugar ½ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ cup sliced
1 Sprinkle yeast over milk and let stand until foamy,
about 10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and add egg, sugar, butter and 2 cups of flour, stirring well to combine. Add remaining flour a little at a time, stirring well after each addition.
2 When dough begins to pull together, turn out onto a flour-dusted surface and knead in currants, raisins, cherries and citrus peel. Continue kneading until smooth, about 8 minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled bowl, turning coat with oil. Cover with a damp cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.
3 Lightly grease a baking tray. Punch down dough; turn
onto a flour-dusted surface. Roll marzipan into a rope and place in centre of dough; fold over to cover; pinch to seal. Place loaf seam side down on baking tray, cover with clean, damp kitchen towel and let rise to double in volume, about 40 minutes.
4 Preheat oven to 180°C. Bake for 10 minutes, then
reduce heat to 150°C and bake another 30-40 minutes until golden brown.
5 Cool on a wire rack, then dust with confectioners’
sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon and almond flakes. Serves 8-12
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TRUFFLE AU CHOCOLAT INGREDIENTS: 454 g Valrhona or Scharffen Berger semisweet or dark chocolate 1 cup heavy cream ½ tsp black currant extract GARNISH: ½ cup Valrhona or Scharffen Berger unsweetened cocoa powder*
1 Line a baking sheet with waxed paper; set aside. 2 In a food processor, pulse chocolate into small pieces. 3 Heat cream in a small heavy saucepan over medium
low until bubbles begin to appear around pan edges and cream begins to steam. Pour cream over chocolate in food processor. Let stand 10 minutes, then blend until smooth. Add extract; pulsing to blend. Pour into a shallow bowl, cover and refrigerate until firm, about 3 hours.
4 Using a spoon, scoop out mixture and quickly roll into rough balls. Place on baking sheet; if very soft, refrigerate another 30 minutes.
5 Place cocoa powder in a shallow bowl; roll balls in
cocoa to coat. Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature. Makes 2 dozen
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Celebrate the festive season Leave the Christmas rush behind and make the most of the holidays with our ocean voyages that set sail during the festive season
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VIKING
After a busy year, there is no better way to celebrate than by embarking on a memorable Viking voyage, where everything is taken care of. On our holiday voyages, finally see that destination that’s always been on your bucket list, or be surprised and delighted by a place you never considered travelling to – wherever you are in the world, we’ll bring plenty of festive cheer to your celebrations at sea. Wake up to the smell of Christmas in the air, with the mouth-watering aroma of freshly-baked Yuletide cookies, cakes and gingerbread houses on board. As night falls, bask in the magical glow of lit-up Christmas trees, twinkling throughout the ship as you enjoy a glass of comforting eggnog or warming mulled wine with your fellow guests. With ten exciting holiday itineraries on offer, the only thing you’ll need to worry about is deciding which one to choose.
Clockwise, from top left: Resident musicians playing festive music; the Explorers’ Lounge; gingerbread houses Opposite: The enchanting Christmas decor of the Atrium on ocean ships
FEEL THE CHRISTMAS CHEER ON A VIKING CHRISTMAS VOYAGE Komodo & the Australian Coast Bali to Sydney Set Sail: 11 Dec 2022 West Indies Explorer San Juan to San Juan Set Sail: 17 Dec 2022 South America & the Chilean Fords Santiago to Buenos Aires Set Sail:1 8 Dec 2022 | 23 Dec 2023 Greek Odyssey Athens to Athens Set Sail: 19 Dec 2022 Iconic Western Mediterranean Barcelona to Rome Set Sail: 20 Dec 2022 Mediterranean Antiquities Barcelona to Athens or vice versa Set Sail: 20 Dec 2022 | 22 Dec 2023 Iconic Mediterranean Treasures Barcelona to Istanbul Set Sail: 20 Dec 2022 Panama Canal & Central America Ft. Lauderdale to Ft. Lauderdale Set Sail: 21 Dec 2022 Australia & New Zealand Auckland to Sydney Set Sail: 22 Dec 2022 | 19 Dec 2023 Journey to Antiquities Athens to Rome Set Sail: 22 Dec 2023
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48 HOURS IN
BARCELONA
SPAIN
41.3874° N, 2.1686° E
Barcelona
Proud city of the Catalans, Barcelona offers everything from Mediterranean beaches to Michelin-star dining and that renowned eclectic architecture Catalans are so proud of their distinct language, culture and heritage, that it’s hard to miss. Spain’s second-largest city, Barcelona, could seem daunting to visitors, but besides being largely built in a highly navigable grid pattern, it has plenty of public transport options, including trams, funicular railways and cable cars, making it enjoyable to get around. The first human settlements date back to Neolithic times but the city was founded by the Romans towards the end of the 1st century. The well preserved Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) is the historic centre of the old city. With soaring 14thcentury cathedrals, towering temple columns and ancient Roman and Medieval walls, this is a city rich in historical architecture. A visit to The Museu d’Historia de Barcelona details the ancient and medieval history of Barcelona, particularly Roman artefacts and architectural remains. Don’t miss one of the earliest examples of Art Nouveau - the first home designed by Gaudi – Casa Vincens which opened to the public in 2017. It blends beautifully tiled exteriors with Arabian and Oriental influences inside. Or take a tour of the flamboyant Palau de la Música Catalana. Its spectacular interiors helped it become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. o online: Visit viking.com for more G information on cruises that go to Barcelona
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VIKING
WHAT TO SEE AND DO Start with a stroll around Europe’s best-preserved Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic) and visit the Museu d’Història de Catalunya where a rooftop bar offers views of the harbour. Wander the medieval lanes and stop at the gothic Barcelona Cathedral to see the stunning vaulted ceiling and cloister with its 13 ornate geese. Spend some time in the attractionpacked Montjuïc to find the Palau Nacional, home to the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, as well as the Magic Fountain which some nights offers spellbinding light shows. Ride the funicular to the top of the hill for panoramic city views.
WHERE TO SHOP One of the most iconic boulevards in Barcelona the elegant Paseo de Gràcia, once a place for 19thcentury affluence, it remains impeccable today. With a high concentration of exclusive fashion and accessory shops such as the
WHERE TO DINE Although tapas is commonplace, Catalan cuisine has its own distinct style. Fuelled by a combination of world-class chefs producing imaginative creations, food becomes an art, and cosmopolitan Barcelona offers some of Europe’s finest dining. La Ramblas is the most popular street in the city, with shops, restaurants and cafés. You’ll find
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A short metro ride takes you to the La Sagrada Familia – Antoni Gaudi’s most famous work – a church for the people. Buy a ticket online to bypass the queues. The carved, colourful interior resembles a fairy tale structure. Take a quick detour north to see the stunning Art Nouveau Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau before making the short walk down tree-lined streets to the Passeig de Gracia. Here you’ll find the iconic Gaudi house Casa Batlló and also Casa Mila with its fascinating rooftop walk, as well as other Modernista architecture. A ride in the lift to the top of the Mirador de Colom (The Columbus Monument) to the viewing gallery (60m up) for 360-degree views of the Gothic Quarter, Parc de Montjuïc and the harbour is not to be missed.
international fashion houses of Versace, Prada and Louis Vuitton. In the heart of Barcelona Plaza de Catalunya providing fashion for everyone, then head down La Ramblas to La Boquería Market Spain’s biggest and most famous market to shop for food and souvenirs. For traditional shopping head to the Gothic Quarter to browse antiques, books and handmade artisan clothing.
Clockwise, from left: Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia looming over the city; Gothic Quarter (Barri Gotic); shopping district Paseo de Gràcia; traditional Spanish tapas
locals and residents alike out enjoying the tree-lined strip way into the golden evenings, where evening dining doesn’t usually start until after 9pm. La Boquería Market is where you can find fresh fruit, veggies, pastries, smoked meats and cheeses along with an array of food stalls and tapas bars offering the freshest foods cooked to perfection. The hip Gracia neighbourhood is distinct from other parts of the city. By day, sample varied street food and tasty tapas. At night, find cool and classy bars playing live jazz.
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