the culture behind your manicure

The current acrylic nail was invented in 1954 by dentist Fred Slack after he broke his finger nail at work. Using a type dental acrylic was typically for dentures, Slack created a

of that partial realistic, yet artificial and temporary, replacement. After further experimentation, Slack and his brother patented a successful version of the acrylic nail and started their own acrylic nail company.

Prior to Slack’s invention, however, various versions of artificial nails existed, dating as far back as 5000 B.C. in Ancient Egypt. Nail extensions made of bone, ivory and gold were worn by the wealthy as a symbol of luxuries only they could access. During the Chinese Ming Dynasty, noblewomen wore long artificial nails to symbolize their abstention from manual labor, personifying wealth, power and class. However, despite historically signifying wealth and affluence, acrylic nails transitioned to have a raciallymotivated negative connotation once Black women began sporting them.

In 1966, Black model Donyae Coles wore acrylic nails on the cover of Twen Magazine. After the mainstream arrival of acrylic nails in the 70s, popular singers Donna Summers and Diana Ross wore long, red, square shaped acrylics, launching the style into the spotlight. In the 80s, Flo Jo and La Toya wore acrylics with designs on them as a fashion statement, while the 90s were the turning point for the public view of acrylics with superstars like Lil’ Kim and Missy Elliott still used for nail inspiration.

Even today, Serena Williams, deemed the most successful tennis player of all time, uses nail art as a form of self-expression on the court. She is often seen wearing hot pink and bedazzled acrylics while playing a sport with a notoriously strict dress-code. Her nail art flagged her as a “rule breaker,” as her acrylics didn’t adhere to the strict Wimbledon dress code — a code linked to country club segregation. Despite racially motivated obstacles, these women pioneered artistic self-expression through the use of various acrylic designs and shapes. They faced intense criticism for something that would be praised when on the hands of a white woman.

Racism is prevalent in the world of beauty. Although acrylic nails are now trendy, Black women were scrutinized for wearing them — and often still are. Artificial nails had a negative connotation, sometimes associated with a lower class status. They implied the wearer was less “put-together” and beautiful than someone with natural, filed-down nails.

However, once white women started wearing the same nails, they were protected within the Western beauty standard and praised for them. Acrylic nails, like other popular styles within Black culture such as hoop earrings and monogram prints, become popular only when replicated into white beauty standards and commercialized without giving credit to its Black origins — known as cultural appropriation.

While there are many nuances to cultural appropriation versus appreciation, historically, racism has manifested itself throughout the fashion and beauty industry. This has too often allowed white influencers to be celebrated for their long and colorful acrylics while Black women such as Serena Williams are deemed “rule breakers.”

Black women are no strangers to white people criticizing their culture. However, by refusing to back down and change who they are to fit the white norm, they paved the way for fashion and beauty to be bigger and better than ever before. Because of them, nail art and acrylic nails have become a staple in the beauty industry, allowing people a new and unique way to express themselves.