Stage Presence

STAGE

PRESENCE

To Kansai Yamamoto, fashion and performance art were one and the same. The late designer, whose famed ensembles adorned the likes of David Bowie and Lady Gaga, created pieces unafraid to take up space. Inspired by Japanese art and theater, Yamamoto’s larger-than-life designs altered the course of fashion with styles fit for the runway, the stage and even museums.

Yamamoto is credited with bringing Japanese maximalism, or “Basara,” to Western fashion. His style incorporated exaggerated silhouettes, hectic patterns and vibrant colors into singular pieces that made one wonder how he managed to turn such extremes into cohesive, breathtaking works of art.

Preceding Yamamoto’s success in the 70s and 80s, fashion felt passive to many. Slim, tailored ensembles highlighted the petite, waifish figures of models, with pastel hues and earth tones exuding a sweet, subtle energy that did little to push boundaries.

Yamamoto’s looks, however, commanded presence. “Taking up space,” in this sense, does not mean these looks are all physically large—although many were. Instead, “taking up space” means these ensembles emit an energy that fills the room. Their eclecticism awes onlookers. Admirable or intimidating, these pieces are difficult to look away from.

Camille Freestone, a Coveteur journalist said, “These designs not only amplify one’s volume, but demand attention. These clothes are not camouflage — they tell you that the wearer wants to be noticed, and they take guts to don.”

Yamamoto’s concept of taking up space was inspired by theater and its nature to exaggerate in an effort to reach even the furthest audience member. Costumes utilize eye-catching colors, fabrics and structures; makeup is harsher and defined; motions and facial expressions are dynamic.

Just as Japanese art and theater influenced Yamamoto, other mediums of arts have inspired fashion through the years. but that doesn’t imply the clothing is anything less than extraordinary. By using gentle fabrics to create huge silhouettes — particularly in her Autumn/Winter 2016 designs — Philo’s designs used size and shape to stand out instead of color. mainstream fashion in the 80s. Decades of body objectification changed to the women’s power suit movement, swapping blouses and skirts for broad-shouldered blazers and wide-legged slacks demanding respect. This androgynous style has persisted for almost half a century, only increasing as the exploration of one’s gender identity is more encouraged. 35

With more room for personal expression through fashion, the concept of ‘camp’ fashion has become more popular than ever. Originating from the French term “se camper,” camp is defined as “a style or mode of personal or creative expression that is absurdly exaggerated and often fuses elements of high and popular culture.” This style was popularized by the queer community throughout the 20th century and was assimilated into mainstream terminology post-Met Gala 2019. The theme, Camp: Notes on Fashion, featured large-structured silhouettes, vibrant pops of color, sequin-covered and light-up gowns, and real-time costume changes.

Now, more than ever, fashion has the freedom to create pieces that hold their own and don’t shy away from having a large presence. Recent Autumn/Winter 2022 shows from Off-White, Balmain, Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton showcased bold choices in terms of silhouettes, color scheme, fabrics and even the runway.

Honoring the late Virgil Abloh’s, OffWhite’s recent designs featured large asymmetrical tulle skirts, bright pops of color, and unique headwear. And Balmain was commended by Harper’s Bazaar for its “futuristic silhouettes” that look like something from a highfashion science fiction film.

Both Balenciaga’s and Louis Vuitton’s designs utilized oversized pieces; Louis Vuitton softened the harsh structures with flowing layers peeking out from under while Balenciaga made them edgier, turning the runway into a faux snowstorm for more drama.

As the theatrics of runway shows and fashion pieces continue to advance, the shows continue to be an incredible display of artistry and fashion innovation.

Style: Lia Gabrielle Glam: Ava Taconelli and Ateeyah Abdul-Wasi Photo: Josh Auten Jr. and Rahmya Trewern Writers: Bella Johnson and Justice Seay

Models: Shree Mysore, Daniela Dorais, Dania Laird and Victoria Royster