Stay Fresh Magazine

INSIDE this issue

6 CARIBBEAN FOOD FROM 434 STREET RESTAURANT REVIEWED BY DARNELL LAMONT WALKER All you need to know about having an amazing meal at 434 Street Restaurant on Grady Avenue. 10 HARVESTING BLISS AT SWEET VINES VINEYARD LEARN MORE ABOUT ONE OF VIRGINIA

ONLY BLACK-OWNED WINERIES 18 CULTIVATE CHARLOTTESVILLE IS ADDRESSING FOOD INSECURITY AT THE ROOTS Learn more about what cultivate is doing about food insecurity. 32 PHILLIP COBBS WRITES A PIECE ABOUT HIS FAMILY FARM IN THE FIRST PERSON CHARLOTTESVILLE SERIES The largest Black-owned farm in Albemarle County

Carter Family Farms: A Growing Agent of Change in the state of Virginia

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about this issue

Dear Readers,

As we have greeted Winter a farewell, spend time in the joys of Spring, and look forward to the beauty of Summer, I’m reminded that each season tends to usher in a sense of something new, or rather, something fresh! Stay Fresh, an imprint of Vinegar Hill Magazine, serves as our premiere publication for all things innovative and of the culture.This special edition focuses on the growing agriculture, food, and wine scene of the region.

This issue celebrates the diverse array of people committed to creating experiences for our palates to enjoy. We’re pleased to provide our readership with a look at the vibrant tapestry of flavors that define our region’s culinary landscape. From a look at freshly harvested produce straight from Blackowned farms like Carter Farms in Unionville Virginia, to the fruit-forward richness of wines crafted by Sweet Vines owner Seidah Armstong, each page of this issue invites you on a journey of information and celebration around those who make it happen.

In this special edition, it has never been more apparent to me that we the people are responsible for shaping our experiences around how we eat and drink. Before food and drink ever take their place at our respective tables, it must go through processes that would be impossible without those around us. Stay Fresh is a special look at the hands responsible for those processes and an introspective look at the deeper connection between what we consume and the world around us.

As we immerse ourselves in the pages of this special ‘Farming, Wine and Sustainable Living’ edition, I encourage you as the reader to not only indulge in the stories, and profiles shared in this issue, but to remember to pause and appreciate the simplistic joy of convening with loved ones, sharing care filled meals, and raising a glass to the flavors that bring us closer. Let’s rejoice in the splendor of each bite, the complexity of every sip, and the connections forged through it all. It is in these moments, that we feed not only our bodies, but also our souls.

Sonia Montalvo

Sonia Montalvo Editor-In-Chief

can you tell me how to get to

words by darnell l amont walker

Nestled within the blooming embrace of the dogwood and Eastern redbud trees, the azaleas and Virginia bluebells, emerges a culinary sanctuary that beckons with the allure of the world’s gastronomic greats. It took years to get over my surprise that Charlottesville, Virginia should be mentioned with the giants. I’ve gone from Barcelona to Tokyo to Paris to Florence to Lima, and Copenhagen, logging countless miles in pursuit of exceptional dining experiences, and Charlottesville fits in comfortably. Once ranked as high as #14 for most restaurants per capita, this picturesque city, the city I ran barefoot through from

Westhaven to Dice St. to Ridge Street to Orangedale, has earned its place as a haven for foodies, drawing flavor seekers from all over to indulge in its diverse culinary offerings. And at the heart, or at least floating somewhere near the gut, of this culinary renaissance stands 434th Street restaurant, a testament to the city’s growing gastronomic prowess and a destination for anyone with an appetite for adventure.

Vinegar Hill’s Editor-in-chief Sonia Montalvo doesn’t know I’ve been a lover of good food since watching my grandmother, Irene Jones, pour love from every pot onto my plate as a kid,

or that from age 10 to 17, everyone thought I’d be a pastry chef because of my love of baking, but somehow she knew to call me when food and writing were on the table. I quickly accepted the offer, booked a flight, and picked 434th Street from the well-curated list of Blackowned restaurants to eat. And because food is best enjoyed while laughing with friends, I called Kim and Welford to join me.

We made our way to the historic Dairy Market where 434th Street holds court amidst a bustling array of vendors and culinary artisans, found free parking, and took in the sights and sounds created by the kids,

the cornholers, and pets filling the many spaces. The air was equally alive with the delicious aroma of spices and sweets, the joyful chatter of diners savoring their meals, and the infectious rhythm of music drifting from the down windows of cars driving down Preston Avenue. We entered.

Through the front door, straight ahead, turn left, and there, we found 434th Street waiting for us, and because I hadn’t eaten all day in preparation for this meal, I ran over with an excitement I’ve only seen in ants discovering a Now and Later candy on a hot sidewalk. Chef Johnathan Wright, Jr.

was waiting with a smile, ready to cure my hunger.

We scoured the menu like adventurers mapping out a course toward treasure, up and down, left and right. From braised oxtails to coconut curry chicken and the tender curried goat, Chef Jonathan’s Islandinspired creations promised to transport us to Islands I’ve frequented and missed dearly. And with sides like golden fried plantains, fried cabbage, and macaroni and cheese, which we learned recently from Netflix’s High on the Hog, was perfected just up the road on Jefferson’s plantation by James Hemings, Sally’s

brother, we prepared our taste buds for the journey.

As we deliberated over our choices, I couldn’t help but reflect on the burgeoning food scene that has made Charlottesville a mecca for culinary enthusiasts like me. This wasn’t the case when I was growing up and Shoney’s, Red Lobster, and Golden Corral were that places for all celebrations, toasts, and meals we’d brag about to friends and family the day after. I remember my mom winning a gift certificate to Aberdeen Barn and everyone’s excitement and jealousy. But now, with its eclectic mix of restaurants, food trucks,

Photo Credit: Tristian Williams

and artisanal markets, Charlottesville offers something to satisfy every palate, from authentic soul food to international cuisine inspired by flavors from around the globe. And at 434th Street, Chef Jonathan Wright Jr. has carved out a niche for himself, drawing on his own experiences as an explorer to bring the flavors of the Caribbean to the city voted amongst the best foodie destinations, best places to live, most beautiful cities, and most intelligent cities. That last one, I like to think, is partly thanks to me. I kid, I kid. A little.

With our orders placed, we found a good spot in the sun to let our anticipation build and we took a moment to raise our glasses in a toast to friendship and the joy of shared experiences. For me and those who I invite to share plates, dining out has always been about more than just the food – It’s about the memories made, the laughter shared, and the connections forged over a shared meal. And as we waited for our dishes to arrive, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the

opportunity to share this culinary adventure with two dear friends by my side.

And then the food came! The passion and creativity behind each dish were undeniable. From the refreshing strawberry blueberry Islandade to the indulgent seafood platters and the inventive Caribbean-inspired creations, Chef Jonathan’s dedication to his craft shone through in every detail.

As we savored the final bites of my Caribbean shrimp and grits and reluctantly bid farewell to 434th Street, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for the vibrant food scene that has made Charlottesville such a special place for foodies like me. In a city teeming with dining options, 434th Street stands out for the sense of community and camaraderie that permeates its walls. So whether you’re a seasoned epicurean or a curious culinary explorer, make your way to Dairy Market and to 434th Street and let Chef Jonathan take you on a journey of flavor and innovation.

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harvesting bliss at sweet vines vineyard

by nadirah muhammad i Photos by stePhon wicks

Family, faith, fun: these three words can be heard ringing loud and true in the ears and hearts of anyone who pulls into the Sweet Vines

Farm Winery driveway, marked by its signature pink sign and a darling red truck welcoming visitors to an oasis of grapes and glamor.

A cozy, boutique winery, elegantly tucked away in the country quaint town of Unionville, Virginia, this hidden gem holds a largerthan-life family history and a winemaker with a fabulous story to tell. Seidah, the owner and winemaker at Sweet Vines, started her own winemaking journey in 2006 and has been passionate about the practice ever since. But what she didn’t know when she first started out was that this newfound passion was a longstanding family

practice. Soon after falling head over heels for the winemaking process, Seidah discovered that she was a third-generation winemaker, and both her great-grandmother and her great-great-grandmother were winemakers based in Mississippi. When asked how she felt about discovering the family passion she says, “It’s in my DNA. If it wasn’t due to a hobby of mine, it would’ve been a lost story. This rich history of my great-grandmother and great-great-grandmother can now be

preserved because of what became a hobby and stress reliever of mine.”

Part of Seidah’s personal ethos is to never let that legacy run dry. She grounds her viticultural journey in family traditions, and wines such as her signature blend entitled “The Ancestors,” work to honor and tell the story of these three generations. Keeping a watchful and undoubtedly proud eye on every tasting, pairing, or event that takes place in the winery, plaques of her family can be found perched

proudly on the mantel and adorned on the tasting bar, behind which Seidah preserves the magic of matriarchal winemaking. Whether it be a popcorn pairing, a wine etiquette class, or a regular tasting session, Seidah’s energy, enthusiasm, and joyful spirit leave an impact that you will continue reflecting on until you plan your next visit.

Celebrating the history and preserving the legacy while paying homage to her family and the long line of female winemakers that came

Photo of owner Seidah Armstrong by Stephon Wicks

before her is of the utmost importance to Seidah. But this family focus doesn’t just stop at the decor and the multigenerational appreciation; instead, it bleeds into current day-today business operations. Seidah considers her winery to be a family affair, with her husband, brother, cousin, and many others all contributing to the art of Sweet Vines’ wine. Partnerships and leaning upon one’s network of people and partners is a practice that Seidah holds in high esteem, and one that has helped grow and expand her winery. Additionally, Seidah is a proud member of the AKA sorority, and her brothers and sisters of the divine nine have been an incredible support system and an integral part of her success. It’s an inspiring tale of collaboration, support, success, being encouraged to pursue your dreams, and creating a space at the table for others to chase theirs.

Steeped in family history and shaped by Seidah’s faith and commitment to making wine accessible and fun for everyone, Sweet Vines Farm Winery is the perfect blend, spanning far beyond just the vintages. A welcome change to the Virginia wine scene, Seidah’s impact not only preserves her family’s history but paves the way for future diverse wine professionals who seek to follow in her footsteps. When asked to reflect upon the waves she has made in the wine industry thus far and the work that must be done in the future Seidah says, “This is a male dominated industry, African American women only represent 0.0001% of this industry, so there’s room for growth, and I think Virginia is paving the way.”

Carter Farms a growing agent of change in the state of v irginia

BY SONIA MONTALVO | PHOTOS BY KORI PRICE

With a payment of seven hundred and twenty dollars and five cents, Michael Carter Jr.’s great-great-grandparents Jefferson Davis Shirley and Katherine Walker Shirley bought well over 100 acres of land in Orange County, in the small town of Unionville more than a century ago. Carter Farms, one of only 50-plus Black-owned farms in the state of Virginia, is the result of generational stewardship, and the preservation of a family legacy.

“Carter Farms, a small operation family farm, is one of three operations. The land itself holds three different farming operations. My uncle raises cattle and pigs. My cousin on his part of the land has Rasta farms and I have Carter farms.” Michael states that his lineage has a history deeply ingrained in agriculture dating back as far as 1745, Carter Farms distinguishes itself from other

farms in the area through its unique farming practices. After spending five years in Ghana as an Agriculture consultant, Michael returned to the States in 2017. With plans to grow African vegetables to sell at various Ghanaian and African markets throughout the state, Michael wanted to come back to the U.S. to share what he learned.

Seeing his family’s land as an opening to showcase sustainable farming methods learned from his time in the motherland and share his knowledge with the community, Michael embarked on a mission to transform Carter Farms into an example of agricultural innovation and cultural exchange in the Central Virginia region. The farm specializes in growing organic African tropical vegetables and plants such as hibiscus, scotch bonnet peppers, okra, peanuts, and a variety of other vegetables to increase

the options for healthy foods available to the public. He exclaims, “One of the things I told myself when I got back, from Ghana [is that] I need to come back and tell this story. Initially, I thought I would be telling the story of my experiences in Ghana and those stories, those personalities, and individuals, not knowing that the land was telling me, I’d be telling the story of my family, the individuals that resided in and on that land.” Now in 2024, Michael has succeeded in building several branches of sustainable agricultural practices and community outreach initiatives.

A professor at the University of Virginia and in partnership with his non-profit Africulture, Carter Jr. teaches Africancentered agricultural and farming practices. Working with various partners within this endeavor such as the USDA, Future Farmers of America, and others, the idea is to equip people in general, but specifically, people of African descent with knowledge of growing foods to create strong and healthy communities with Carter Farms sitting at the epicenter of it all. Michael also noted that several students, especially those committed to environmental science and legislative policy around the environment.”

“Carter Farms, a small operation family farm, is one of three operations.”

Vines Farm Vineyard, whom he happens to be land neighbors with. The two have worked together in several different capacities to put together events and workshops for the area. Michael also mentions that the work of the Seet Vines owner Seidah Armstrong is a galvanizing and inspirational to so many. When asked about the driving force behind his collaborative efforts, Michael stated this: “I follow the fruits of nature, and follow the lead of nature. In nature, you have trees, and right now we’re in the middle of pollen season. Pollen is to pollinate other trees. It provides nourishment for bees, insects,birds, etc. And even though it’s an inconvenience to us, it sustains the larger and broader ecosystem. And nothing in nature works in a silo. They’re all interconnected. The birds, the bees, the insects, the mosquitoes, they’re all working toward a greater good. Humanity always appreciates it, but that’s what it’s working toward. At Carter Farms, we kind of adopt the same philosophy of always working together for our own and mutual growth. That “I can’t grow if you can’t grow,” and I should be aiding your growth as you aid my growth. If I’m feeding you, that means you should be doing something for me, or I’m helping you out and that would also help out the larger community and benefit me down the road.”

Africulture as a non-profit arm also works with Our Space World, a Maryland NonProfit, and the National Institute of Food and Agriculture, to offer the curriculum to African American home school students complete with culturally relevant learning materials to aid in the education of youth on all things environmental justice and farming. Carter Jr. Also works to partner with local businesses such as Black-owned Sweet

Carter Farms is committed to informing the public about sustainable farming and the positive outcomes that come to people of African descent when implementing healthy produce from Africa into their diets. Michael stated, “I think it’s very important one of the things we’re establishing at the farm is eating for the appetite. People of African descent need to eat more of foods that are From Africa. Because they’re The molecular construction of that food is calibrated to our genetics. Just how science works. What you eat from your lineage affects your genetic

makeup.” As Carter Farms continues to till the soil of its land with purpose, Michael continues to push for not only regional impact but with sight on generating national influence around becoming a leader in climate-smart advances related to African crops. He hopes that his labor of love can contribute to helping Carter Farms set the tone as one of the pioneering farms introducing African produce “back to the African American dietary lexicon.”

Before ending the interview, Carter Farms owner stated that he wanted to send a message directly to the readership of Vinegar Hill magazine about convenience being the killer of the Black Farmer industry. He believes that consumers wanting the perks of grocery store-produced vegetables at costefficient prices that come almost table-ready is making it impossible for Black Farmers to compete with the beast of technology. His message is as is as follows:

“It’s imperative for Black people to support Black farmers. We’re going extinct and we’re going extinct because our major community is not supporting us. You know, our Black churches aren’t supporting us, our Black families aren’t supporting us, Black consumers aren’t supporting us, and we have to depend upon larger institutions, white institutions, and public institutions to support us because Black people want to buy from us at a “reasonable and fair price.” When you ask for greens and stuff, you want to get the lowest possible price for the product. We don’t do that with our phones or our cars. You’re getting Mercedes Benz quality and you want used Hyundai prices and we need better. We need our people to really invest in us so we can invest in the health of our community.”

cultivate

c harlottesville is addressing food insecurity at the roots

By Sonia Montalvo | Photos by Kristen Finn

Early morning in one of Cultivate Charlottesville’s partnership garden’s located at City of Promise in the West Haven Neighborhood, it is easy to see the physical indication of true collaborative efforts. Cultivate staff, and city residents have worked together to care for the garden complete with a multitude of fresh vegetables including broccoli, greens, and even a banana tree grown using pieces from the parent plant belonging to Joy Johnson, the neighborhood’s eldest living resident. Residents of the neighborhood can come and take what they need from the garden at no charge. This garden, though special, is not a stand-alone passion project, but instead an integral part of the work done

through the organization’s efforts to alleviate barriers to food accessibility in Charlottesville, Virginia.

Executive Director, Aleen Carey believes that in reference to the city surrounded by mountains,“We say it’s a foodie town. Everybody talks about gourmet restaurants, farms, wineries. So it’s well known as a foodie town, but it’s not yet a food equity town.” Stepping into the role of director in July, Aleen serves as the successor to the organization’s former Co-directors Jeanette AbiNader and Richard Morrison.

Charlottesville’s food insecurity rate affects 17% of the college town’s population. Hearing this statistic may be shocking for

some, but if on the side that the rate affects, is unsurprising for others. Food insecurity in short is the term used to describe the inadequate accessibility and availability of nutritional and safe foods to meet one’s basic needs.

Since Charlottesville is home to about 46,000 residents, that means that well over 7,000 people face the struggles that food insecurity brings. Cultivate, a non-profit in the city, aims to address the issue by working with youth and community residents to create equitable and sustainable food systems. The communityfocused and led organization works to accomplish this goal according to their mission, through garden-based

experiential learning, growing and sharing healthy food, amplifying community leaders, and advocating for food justice.

Cultivate’s mission to provide healthy foods to the residents of the city who could benefit the most is achieved by utilizing three programs: City Schoolyard Garden, Food Justice Network, and Urban Agriculture Collective. Envisioned with each program uniquely impacting its participants, each of them works together to bring about the change the organization wishes to see. Partnering with nine Charlottesville City Schools, City Schoolyard Garden educates students on how to grow their own foods, as well as offering them fresh produce to take home. If interested, students have the opportunity to also become Food Justice Interns for the organization which can also lead to growth in the organization as they age, with options available to become Community Apprentices and Advocates. . The Food Justice Network program

partners with over 25 organizations inclusive of food pantries, hospital networks, educational institutions and housing initiatives, this tier works together to pool their resources and implement strategies to achieve food equity and accessibility across the city.

The Urban Agriculture Collective (UAC) is special to Cultivate because it is essentially the programs’ genesis. UAC focuses on working with public housing spaces and their residents to grow food free of charge. Carey states, “Someone said, “Oh, you guys haven’t been around for a very long time,” and I was like, wait, we’ve been around for more than a decade, but Cultivate is the thing that’s newer. So the individual programs, Urban Agriculture Collective, UAC actually started as something called Quality Control Council Farm (QCC.)”. At the time Garrett [Square apartments], and Miss Karen Waters. were the ones who got the QCC farm going. And then one of our current staff members Jennifer Minor was working in the QCC farm from day one. So she’s still a part of the organization. It changed from Quality Control

Council Farm to Urban Agriculture Collective of Charlottesville. Now we just call it UAC because it’s part of Cultivate Charlottesville. But those guys started in 2007.” The alignment of these three programs assists Cultivate Charlottesville’s infrastructure to hit on all cylinders to battle food insecurity. Aleen shared that even before the COVID-19 pandemic, Charlottesville faced a higher rate of food insecurity compared to the rest of the state. While the city’s average sits at the aforementioned 17%, the state’s average was just under Charlottesville’s, at 11%. Despite Charlottesville’s deep affluence and abundant food resources available in the well-endowed area, the stark disparity emphasized the need for the organization’s comprehensive approach beyond traditional food assistance programs, thus recognizing the importance of systemic change, Cultivate’s integrated approach focuses on not only offering food support but also advocating for policy changes.

Cultivate Charlottesville as an entity is taking on the hard work of establishing food security, but Aleen shares that even with all of their successes, there is still much work to be done. “Another thing that we say that can be a little, touchy is when you look at the last 40 years, we have not effectively moved the hunger needle. Even though we’ve had some of our organizations, and non-profits in this area working on it, we have not changed it to some great degree. I think that Is the same for the United States, not just Charlottesville. I think that’s how it’s gone. So that’s where we say, if we want to be successful, you have to add the system work.” Carey went on to share that Cultivate wants the city at an organizational and political level, to continue thinking about what it will continue to take to make Charlottesville the food equity town it deserves to be. “…we have been nudging them for sure. We’re in our

“Another thing that we say that can be a little, touchy is when you look at the last 40 years, we have not effectively moved the hunger needle. Even though we’ve had some of our organizations, and nonprofits in this area working on it, we have not changed it to some great degree.”

sixth year of an official partnership with the city that’s called the Food Equity initiative and that is money for us to do this work with them.” Setting their sights on expanding their reach, the non-profit is working with Charlottesville Parks and Rec to hopefully in the future obtain gardening space at the historic Booker T. Washington Park as well as Tonsler Park. Due to Parks and Rec going through a strategic planning phase, the campaign is ongoing.

After a morning of working in the City of Promise garden, Cultivate staff member KJ Howard asked his fellow colleagues who were loading the truck up to head to their next garden site, “Does anyone need any broccoli to plant at their site?” It is this statement alone that captures the spirit of community and collaboration fostered by Cultivate Charlottesville, where the focus reaches far beyond individual gain to supporting each other for the shared benefit of the public.

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the largest black-owned farm in a lbemarle c ounty

This is the first of a series about Buck Island, by Philip Cobbs for First Person Charlottesville.

Last year I passed a milestone, 65 years on Earth. As I reflected on my life, it occurred to me: I had spent most of my life within a football field’s length of my birthplace. I was so immersed in the place I took for granted how safe I felt there.

Ten miles southeast of Charlottesville, where Buck Island Creek joins the Rivanna River, our family farm did not have a formal name. It was often called the Garland Farm. When I was born, it was the largest Black-owned farm in Albemarle County, at more than 600 acres. I took for granted

that I could walk all day and never have anyone ask me what I was doing there. I belonged there, it had belonged to my family for generations. I felt at one with the land. Now, I simply call it Buck Island.

Today, there is little evidence of our family farm’s existence. Everyday, hundreds of commuters on Thomas Jefferson Parkway pass by it on their way to Charlottesville. A small white church is the little left of a once vibrant community.

A few years ago, when I looked for Buck Island Creek on Google Maps, I was surprised that it was mislabeled. Buck Island Creek begins near Buck

by Phillip Cobbs

Island, but the fork to the west is mislabeled as the Rivanna River. The place I remember so well had disappeared from the map.

But there is hope in preserving the story of Buck Island’s past.

A road sign on Thomas Jefferson Parkway identifies Buck Island Creek. There are no markers to signify where the Garland family farm once stood. Kori Price/Charlottesville Tomorrow Kori Price/ Charlottesville Tomorrow

The Garland farm at Buck Island was truly a family farm from 1835 to 1972. In each generation, one family member held the deed to most of the property. If other

This story was published as a part of Charlottesville Inclusive Media’s First Person Charlottesville project.

family members wanted to homestead, they were given small parcels and everyone shared in the responsibility of operating the farm. In my early youth, there were many homes separated by some distance across the property. As families moved or passed away the homes were abandoned.

The farm had three parts: First, the woods or forest, flanked by the second part, open fields on elevated land grazed by cattle and sheep. That’s where most of the homes were located.The open fields overlooked the third part of the farm, the lowground. The lowground was a fertile floodplain on which cash crops grew at the confluence of Buck

Island Creek and the Rivanna River.

Those two waterways always fascinated me. All the springs and branches flowed into them. I loved water and I knew the watershed like the back of my hand. My brother and I enjoyed building small dams in the streams. I once skipped school to spend the day on an island in Buck Island Creek just playing in the water. When I was old enough for my parents to trust me on the water, I bought an inflatable raft from the Montgomery Ward mail order catalog. I floated the Rivanna River and saw remnants of dams and locks. I remember seeing a millstone next to the river, the

only thing left from a mill that once stood on my family’s farm, noted on old maps as “Garland Factory.”

I knew the hills and valleys. I knew the springs and branches. I knew the creek and river. We called them names like Aunt Francis Branch and Uncle George’s Hill. Trees had names too, and there were many trees. The woods were a world of its own. Hundreds of acres of pristine old growth forest that had been selectively cut for over a century. It all was a giant playground to me.

In the early 1970s, the Garland family member holding the deed to the farm died suddenly

Philip Cobbs says the story of his ancestor, Sarah Garland Boyd Jones, the first African American woman doctor in Virginia, is part of the history of his family’s land that needs to be preserved. Kori Price/Charlottesville Tomorrow

without leaving a will. The fate of the farm was in the hands of the court. It was auctioned and Westvaco, a paper packaging company placed the winning bid. The company gave family members the option to buy property surrounding their homes. My aunt bought a small plot and my parents purchased 38 acres — to me, that felt like the size of a postage stamp. The rest was eventually purchased by a developer.

I was 14 then, and I watched the only place I had ever lived be slowly eliminated. The livestock were sold. Most of the homes were dismantled. The woods were clearcut and pine trees were planted everywhere except in the lowground. Looking back, it was like observing someone in hospice die.

The only time in my life that I was separated from the land for an extended period was the three years from 1980 to 1983 that I spent in Japan while in the U.S. Navy on a ship, ironically named the USS Blue Ridge. Even then, my father

passed away while I was serving, so I came home for his burial. I have never been away for more than a year and a half.

When I was discharged, I decided to return home. My mother, Elizabeth Garland Cobbs, was alone on the land where she was born and she didn’t drive. Initially, I came home to be near her. As the years passed, I grew to appreciate the place more and more and began to learn its history. My mother was my connection to the past. When she passed away in 2012 at the age of 92, the baton was passed to me.

Now, I know I have to tell the story of this place. If I don’t, its unique place in the rich history of Albemarle County could be lost.

This is how the story of my family’s farm illustrates this history: Before roads, waterways were the thoroughfares of the region that is now Albemarle County. The Rivanna River was part of the network that connected central Virginia to

Spring Hill Baptist Church, established in 1803, was the Garland family church. Kori Price/Charlottesville Tomorrow

Richmond, and then to Europe and Africa. Along its banks were fertile floodplains where cash crops grew. Those crops were worked by the enslaved, and the lowground was their place. The crops were transported to market on boats called batteau and most were crewed by enslaved and free Black men.

When histories are told of the Rivanna River, little is said about the Black communities that lived and worked there. The Rivanna Conservation Alliance, for example, has on its website a 1996 history of the river that focuses on European settlers and the economy of the river, with only passing references to the enslaved people or Black farmers. From the time European settlers arrived, the economy was driven by the river. Enslaved people provided the labor that made it successful, whether it was in the fields working the fertile soil or on the waterways. Over a lifetime of observation, I

have come to recognize the elusive signs of the past.

If one is looking for the forgotten footprint of slavery, start at the river, not just on the mountaintop. It’s a footprint that is washing away with each flood.

In 2016, Albemarle County acquired 122 acres of the flood plain of Buck Island from the Nature Conservancy. This is one of several properties Albemarle County Parks and Recreation has slated for future development. In early March, an official with the county told me that there are other projects that have priority and it might be several years before the Buck Island property will be developed.

This land was part of the farm I grew up on, and now it belongs to all of us. What will we do with it? I hope that its history will be incorporated into those plans, however far out they are.

We all now have a stake in Buck Island.