ENDURANCE Beginner to Advanced Vol.5

E C N A R U D N E V O L U M E

5

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 01

A’LANDELL ENDURANCE

A’Landell Endurance

is nestled on 1700 acres conveniently located close to Manilla and Tamworth NSW. The property was selected for its qualities to provide an ideal breeding and development basis for young horses as well as intense training country for Endurance horses.

Based on over 40 years’ experience we offer: • Troubleshooting for issues with your Endurance horse.

• A full Endurance horse training service for busy people.

• Lessons to help you and your horse achieve better results.

Contact: Allan or Jenni 02 6786 1521 (after dark) Allan 0427 764 107 Jenni 0434 143 262 Email: alandellstud@gmail.com www.alandell.com

S TA L L I O N S AT S T U D CLOVELLY PARK KAZEEM

A’LANDELL SOUL

Temperament Height 16hh Quick recoveries Proven progeny (UAE and AUS)

Temperament Heart Height 15.3hh Versatility

Grey Legend Summit Park Azeem Serenity Clovelly Park Kazeem Chip Chase Kaiwanna Mocha Fiesta (iid UK)

Kie-Al First Impression (exp AE) A’Landell Soul Karista Serenade

Yahir (exp NZ) Alii’s Impression Chip Chase Sadaqa Pinnaroo Melissa

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 1

Contents elements of a ride Base .................................................................................... 4 tips for the vetting ring .................................................................................... 6 endurance etiquette .......................................................................................... 8 outfitting the rider ......................................................................................... 10 EndurancE Beginner to AdvAnced Volume 5

no Back, no endurance Horse ....................................................................... 20 equine Back Health and Wellbeing .................................................................. 24 gotcha! ........................................................................................................ 26

Vink Publishing ABn 3107 478 5676

Fundamentals of endurance Saddle Fit.............................................................. 28

Publisher: Michael vink P: (07) 3334 8000 e: michael@vinkpub.com

gear to go ................................................................................................... 36

Editor: Sharon Meyers M: 0409 270 535 e: sharon@vinkpub.com advertising: Michael vink P: (07) 3334 8000 e: michael@vinkpub.com Sharon Meyers M: 0409 270 535 e: sharon@vinkpub.com all advertising Enquiries to: vink Publishing Po Box 8369 Woolloongabba QLd 4102 P: (07) 3334 8000 e: michael@vinkpub.com office Address: 38–40 Fisher Street, east Brisbane QLd 4169 Graphic designers: Wendy deng, Matt Limmer

tips for Beginners .......................................................................................... 34 taking the Heart rate of a Horse...................................................................... 38 thermoregulation and dehydration in the Horse ................................................ 40 Strapping Your Horse ..................................................................................... 42 Australia’s Wild Horses .................................................................................. 48 equine gastric Ulcer Syndrome ....................................................................... 52 training an endurance Horse .......................................................................... 54 electrolytes revisited ....................................................................................... 58 Looking after Legs .......................................................................................... 60 Feeding the endurance Horse .......................................................................... 62 Azoturia and tying Up ................................................................................... 68 do it in Boots!................................................................................................ 70 timely tips .................................................................................................... 76 rest and rehabilitation: Joint and tendon injuries ............................................... 78 nutrition: the ideal ratio for copper and Zinc .................................................. 84

Proofreader: karen Belik

Lead the Way with equissage devices .............................................................. 87

*Recommended Retail Price. All material appearing in Endurance Beginner to Advanced is subject to copyright laws.

Reproduction of articles in part or thereof is not permitted without prior permission of the publishers. The opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those held by the publishers or staff. Any written material may be submitted, but no responsibility will be accepted for the return of solicited or unsolicited material. Photographs must have a return name and address written on the flip side, and must be accompanied by a stamped, self addressed envelope. Although every care is taken, no responsibility is accepted by the publisher nor the staff of Endurance Beginner to Advanced, for loss or damage of any material submitted for publication. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertisement, booked or otherwise, on sighting of material.

Breeding for endurance .................................................................................. 88 directory Advertising ..................................................................................... 91 Mentoring Youth riders ................................................................................... 94 Advertisers index ........................................................................................... 96

visit us at vinkpub.com

coVEr Photo: Amanda Powell and Alamo Minelli.

Photo by Sue crockett.

Sue Crockett

2 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Nicole Emanuel

Kelkette Park Arabian Stud

Still Proudly Producing Beautiful, Functional, Endurance Arabians Visitors Welcome – By Appointment pleAse QuAlity Breeding And shoW stock Also AVAilABle Kelkette Park Arabian Stud Yackandandah, North East Victoria Phone: (02) 60 271 313 Mobile: 0408 203 211 Email: Kelkettepark@bigpond.com www.Kelkettepark.com.au

Elements of a

Ride Base Words By Paula Boer Photography by Sue Crockett

A

rriving at a ride base for the first time can be a daunting affair – horses and people seem to swarm everywhere, camp sites squeezed higgledy-piggledy amongst trees and trucks, and no sign posts to give the newcomer a clue where to go. Don’t despair! All ride bases have the same basic elements, so once you have an idea what you are looking for, things become clearer. Of course not all ride bases have all the elements described in this article as it depends on the size of the ride, but if in doubt, ask someone. The sport of endurance is proud of its reputation for friendly people.

If you are lucky, a Camp Steward will greet you at the entrance, pointing out where you are to park. Unless there is the luxury of unlimited level camping space, ride organisers try to locate large vehicles such as trucks and goosenecks where they have easy access. Some competitors like to reserve favourite spots or be located with friends, and obliging Camp Stewards will attempt to make this possible.

4 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Having set up your camp, you will need to find the water points, unless you have brought your own supplies. Water is provided for horses from either taps, barrels, troughs or natural sources such as rivers. Use buckets to retrieve water, rather than letting your horse drink directly from the source, to prevent contamination. For rides in cold conditions, there may be a hot water ‘donkey’ provided (you add a bucket of cold water and receive a bucket full of hot water in return) or a communal fire where you can heat up water in a metal bucket.

Once you have set up your yards and your horse is comfortable, complete the entry forms at the Secretary’s tent (or float, shed or whatever serves to protect the paperwork from the weather). Have your log book, rider’s card and money ready. You will be asked to weigh in (at this point the scales are near the Secretary, but will be moved to the Time Stewards prior to the ride). You will receive a ride bib which must be returned at the end of the ride (unless, such as in Tasmania, you buy your number). If you need to leave the ride

base before presentations, collect your log book from the Secretary. This is also where raffle tickets or other fund raising products may be for sale.

Having entered, your horse must pass the pre-ride vet check. Take your horse, unsaddled, to the waiting area outside the vet ring. The Chief Steward will ‘ID’ your horse (using either a microchip reader or visual identification to match the log book). Next, the TPR Steward will, as their name suggests, take the temperature, pulse and respiration before passing you on to the vet. The vet will study your horse’s physical condition and metabolics, often in a bay between star pickets or poles, then ask you to trot out around a pre-set course, usually marked with witches hats. Vet rings have an ‘in’ lane and an ‘out’ lane, so make sure you know which is which. At busy times it may be necessary to queue for TPRs or vets, so walk your horse in the area indicated by the officials.

The pre-ride talk will be conducted in an area where people can easily hear the

speakers, often near the canteen if there is one. Make sure you know before going to the ride if food will be available in case you need to take your own.

Immediately prior to the start of the ride, report to the Chief Steward in the marshalling area, giving your number so they know you are ready to go out. This area is adjacent to the start line. Do not cross the start line until signalled to do so.

Often, the start line is also the finish line, but this may not always be the case. Timing Stewards are located so they can see both start and finish, and will have the scales for weighing in at the end of each leg. When you cross the finish line, weigh in (if required) and collect your log book and time slip from the Timing Stewards.

For ‘vet gate into hold’ rides, a strapping area may be allocated to allow horses to be prepared for the vet ring without returning to camp. To prevent congestion, only riders and two assistants are usually permitted in the strapping area. Strappers can leave buckets, rugs, feed and whatever else they require in advance of their horse coming in, so the area often looks very odd with wheelbarrows or trolleys of gear left lying around.

For those not riding, the Communications Centre can be a valuable source of information, with a board showing times that each rider passes a particular checkpoint and maps of where these checkpoints are located.

The Communications Centre is typically run by the local State Emergency Service (SES) or fire brigade. These volunteers often have no experience of horses, so do not expect them to have the answers to all your questions. Try to find an official if you have any queries other than the location of your rider.

The canteen is also often run by community volunteers that are not specifically horse people, but they can be a good source of information for what might be available locally, such as pubs or shops. You may be lucky to have merchandise stalls at the ride which are a good way to pass the time while waiting for a rider to come in off a ride leg.

An official photographer may be out on track during the ride, or taking photographs around the ride base. These people usually have a vehicle where you can see and order photographs before you leave the ride base. These make wonderful mementos of the occasion.

After the best-conditioned workouts and time for the Secretary to finalise the paperwork, trophies and log books are given out in a presentation area. It’s a good idea to take your own chair along as presentations can run for quite a while, especially if there are a lot of raffle prizes!

Once you have set up your yards, complete the entry forms at the Secretary’s tent.

Familiarise yourself where the vet ring is situated.

Every ride base has toilet facilities of some kind (not all with running water). Toilets may be in a permanent block, or be portaloos located around the ride base. Although ride organisers do their best to provide sufficient supplies of toilet paper, it is a good idea to carry your own.

If the facilities need servicing, let the Secretary know. Some ride bases also have showers, so be prepared with soap and shampoo.

In case of emergency, an area may be allocated as an equine hospital. If any horses are resident, please keep quiet when nearby to reduce stress to animals and their attendants.

When there is no hospital, horses may be treated when required at their own camp, but hopefully this eventuality does not occur.

If St. John’s Ambulance or other first aid service is present at the ride, they are

usually located near the Secretary. If there is no obvious service and you are in need of help, ask any of the officials. Often they will know of medical personnel on the ride base, even if those are not in an official capacity, or can direct you to a service in a nearby town.

Also contact the Chief Steward if you become aware of a horse needing to be rescued out on track. All rides have an emergency float available to retrieve injured or sick horses that are unable to return to the ride base without assistance.

Have a walk around the ride base and locate all the services when you have a spare moment. Stop and meet new people.

Remember, everyone had a first time at a ride base and will help if you ask.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 5

Sue Crockett

Tips For The

Vetting Ring Make sure you have your horse’s log book when presenting to the TPR steward or vet.

D

r Narelle Cribb has vetted countless endurance rides and has been the Head Veterinarian at many, including Tom Quilty events, has vetted overseas including the USA Tevis Cup, has been the Australian Team Veterinarian on several World Championships teams and is a member of the Australian Endurance Riders Association (AERA) National Veterinary Panel.

Narelle is always an advocate for the horse and does her utmost to ensure the best possible outcome for all horses and their riders. These are some of her tips for presenting your horse at the vetting ring: n Make sure you are familiar with the vet ring layout before the ride starts – where is the in gate? Out gate? Strapping area? Where do you need to get your log book from? n Make sure you arrive at the vet ring in time. It is your responsibility to make sure you know what the correct “ride time” is, and it is your responsibility to arrive on time for your vet inspection. n When removing your gear, have a good look at your horse for any rubs/scrapes or other injury. Make sure you have removed any leg boots and check all feet for rocks and debris, loose shoes and the like, before you present to the vet ring.

6 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

n When you come into the vet ring and your horse is wearing a rug, have all the buckles and leg straps undone before you report to the vet or TPR. This is a safety issue – we don’t want horses panicking because they are caught in a leg strap when a well-meaning person tries to take the rug off for you. n Make sure you or your strapper has the log book when you present to the TPR steward or vet. Try to make sure the book stays clean and dry! n Your horse should be familiar with the physical examination involved in the metabolic check before you come to a ride. This includes temperature, membrane check, gut sound examination and having all the feet assessed. Often it is not enough that your horse is good for you to perform these tasks at home – you need to get a different person to do the checks, and in different locations. TPR stewards are volunteers, and do not deserve to be placed in danger by a fractious horse. n Your horse should trot obediently in hand.

This also requires practice! Not only at home, but in different locations and where

there are lots of horses and other distractions. With practice, you will also be able to decide at what speed your horse is best trotted – some need to be trotted slowly, others quite fast. n If you have any special requests – eg. you need your horse to be vetted with a stable mate, or you need your horse vetted on its own, or not in the vetting bays, make sure this is okay with the chief steward prior to ride start. It is permitted at most rides. n Be honest with the vet when any questions are asked as to how your horse is progressing in the ride. The vet is there to ensure your horse finishes the ride as healthy as possible. If you have any concerns, please tell the vet, and then they can give advice as to the best way to successfully complete the ride. n Be polite to the officials – in many cases they put in very long hours, and often not in the best conditions. n Know the rules of your sport.

Be a good sport. Vets don’t like vetting you out but unfortunately in some cases, the horse is not fit to continue. You may disagree with this decision. If so, there are proper channels for protesting.

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Endurance

During vetting your horse must be run out on a loose rein.

Etiquette

Words By Paula Boer Photography by Sue Crockett

L

ike any sport, endurance has rules.

However, there are additional practices that help make the sport safe and enjoyable for everyone.

Based on common sense, they boil down to a courtesy for other people and their horses, but sometimes in the adrenalin of the moment they can be forgotten.

Endurance riding is a demanding sport and can start at very early hours of the morning.

Although it is fun to share a drink with mates around the fire, remember that other people may be trying to sleep, so keep the noise down. If you want to party, camp near likeminded revellers well away from others.

Some ride grounds permit open fires or specify they must be above ground. Sometimes a communal fire is provided where people can socialise and heat up water for strapping. If you intend to light a fire, bring your own firewood

8 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

unless you know it will be provided – the neighbours don’t want their properties stripped of everything burnable.

Always take old feed sacks or some other means of transporting away your horse’s waste.

Some ride organisers will collect manure and remnant feed, others may harrow this into the grounds after the ride is finished, but don’t assume this is the case. Be prepared to take away all muck, and leave your campsite tidy. Volunteers work hard enough to put on a ride; the last thing they want is to pick up other people’s litter.

Dogs may be banned from the ride base or must be kept on leads at all times. If dogs are permitted, ensure they do not cause any disturbance either by barking or running free.

Dogs are not permitted in the vetting area at any time, even on leads. Children should also be kept under control both for their own safety and the wellbeing of others. Do not let children run

across the finish line at any time, as horses can come in fast and unexpectedly.

It is excellent for the sport when new people attend to watch, or perhaps try a social ride.

Help newcomers whenever you can. If you see someone having difficulties with a horse or looking lost, ask if you can be of help. In a similar vein, if you need help, don’t hesitate to ask someone, unless of course they are strapping their horse for the vet or are otherwise preoccupied.

When waiting with your horse for the vet, be aware of the queue and your place in it.

Stewards will give preference to those in the main ride over trainer and social rides, but otherwise it is a ‘first come first served’ basis. If you are running out of time to vet, let the steward know, but don’t rely on their goodwill to help you jump the queue.

The rules state that stallions must wear a blue ribbon in their tail, and kickers a red one. Do not

1 When encountering riders on the track allow adequate space between your horse and theirs.

2 Stallions must wear a blue ribbon in their tail.

1 let your horse come too close when you see these warnings. Equally, if your horse is wearing a blue or red ribbon, ensure that you maintain adequate room around your horse for everyone’s safety.

Your horse should behave well at all times.

If you have a difficult horse, make sure you do the necessary work at home so you are in control. Don’t be surprised if you are asked to leave the vet ring, possibly even the ride base, if you have an uncontrollable horse. A horse must stand for the TPR stewards to take its temperature, pulse and respiration, and again when the vet undertakes their checks. Some horses are more settled when they have a ‘friend’ stand nearby. Do not expect this as a right – ask the vet or steward if another horse may stay close.

Hold the horse on a loose rein and stand back to give ample room for the steward or vet to do their job. Your horse must also be run out on a loose rein – you risk disqualification if the horse’s head cannot move freely.

Etiquette extends beyond the ride base to when you are out on track. Be particularly mindful of other riders at water points. It is usual to give way to those in the main ride if you are riding in the trainer or social ride, even if you are at the water first. Do not push in if other horses are already drinking; give them time to ensure they are finished before letting your horse approach the barrel or trough.

Using water for strapping on track must only be done if the ride organisers expressly permit this, in which case they will provide buckets for that purpose. Fill the bucket and take your horse away from the water point to make room for other horses. Even if the water point is a stream or dam, do not strap your horse in the water, as stock may rely on that source, or the river may be in a catchment area for human consumption.

When you encounter other riders on the track, ensure you allow adequate space between your horse and theirs. Keep at least a full horse’s length distance from the horse in front of you, and definitely do not use other horses as brakes to stop your horse. Similarly, do not use the horse in front to ‘tow’ you along – ride at your own pace in your own space, or with friends. Sometimes you may find yourself overtaking a rider, just to have them overtake you in a little while, and a ‘leap-frogging’ occurs. This can be very unsettling to a horse, so either keep going and stay ahead, or pull up and let a larger gap build between you and the other rider. Alternatively, ask them if they would like to ride with you – you may end up making a new friend rather than irritating them!

When overtaking, ensure that the person ahead knows you are coming. Only overtake when they indicate it is safe to do so and make sure you leave plenty of room between your horse and theirs. Go past slowly and make sure

2 the person is in control before you zoom off. If necessary, trot for a short way to put some distance between you and the other horse before cantering on. If the other person is walking alongside their horse or has stopped, make sure they are okay before going by. If a horse is lame or has lost a shoe, you can help by informing the next checkpoint.

Always call out your number when you reach a checkpoint and make sure the volunteer calls it back to you. A cheery ‘thank you’ also goes a long way. Without these people our sport couldn’t happen.

Sometimes the track is used in two directions, so there may be oncoming horses as well as those going the same way. Always keep to the left of the track, passing right shoulder to right shoulder. Often, tracks follow public roads and trails too, so be mindful of other users such as cars, cyclists and pedestrians. Follow the road rules at all times. When crossing a busy road, ride organisers may have a person directing traffic. If they ask you to stop, do so. Don’t assume, just because you think the road is clear, that it is safe to do so.

At the pre-ride talk, the ride organiser will say whether gallop finishes are permitted or not.

Regardless of what is allowed, ensure that you ride safely at all times. Do not hoon into the ride base with total disregard for what might be happening. Always keep your eyes open and your horse in control. Remember, to complete is to win!

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 9

Sue Crockett A colour coordinated rider and horse.

Outfitting The Rider

By Jennifer Green

E

ndurance riding is one of the few equine disciplines with very few rules and regulations regarding riding wear.

In such an enormous country, with weather conditions ranging from hot and dry to snow and rain, it is fortunate there is a wide range of practical and comfortable riding wear available.

The modern endurance rider has unprecedented choices in apparel.

There are several rules and guidelines that must be observed by all riders participating in endurance events affiliated with the Australian Endurance Riders Association (AERA). The following is an excerpt from the AERA Members Handbook regarding rider equipment and dress.

R2 Rider Equipment and Dress 2.1 Whips and spurs are not permitted, nor any equipment that could be deemed to be used for whipping a horse.

10 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

2.2

2.3

2.4

2.5

2.6

Equipment and dress must be appropriate and not detrimental to the image of endurance riding.

Attire worn by riders should be unrestricted with the proviso that competitors present a smart, healthy and athletic image. Protective clothing should be worn to guard against sunburn and shrubbery.

The AERA Inc. discourages the wearing of dangling earrings and loose jewelry, so as not to get caught on tack or shrubbery.

It is desirable for all competitors who are presenting at award ceremonies to be suitably attired for the occasion.

All riders at affiliated events must wear an equestrian standard helmet which complies with the equestrian standard in Australia, the U.S.A. or Europe current at the time of manufacture.

2.7

If flat heeled running shoes are worn, then safety stirrups should be used.

If you intend competing in a FEI event you may find several additional requirements including wearing a collared shirt and proper riding pants or jodhpurs. Please enquire with the event organisers to ensure you are attired correctly at FEI competitions.

In this section we will look at outfitting the rider from head to toe.

Helmets The applicable standards for horse riding helmets are: n Australian and New Zealand standard is AS/NZ 3838:2006 n European Normes EN 1384 (Helmets for Equestrian Activities) and EN 14572 (High Performance Helmets for Equestrian Activities) n The USA standard is ASTM F1163-04a

Modern helmets are very light, comfortable and come in a variety of styles, colours and sizes. There are two main types of protection offered by helmets.

Many helmets utilise a light urethane foam layer encased in a synthetic shell or with a covering of material, and are covered internally with a lining of padding, material or mesh. This style of helmet relies on the foam layer absorbing shock during an impact and crumpling to reduce the amount of shock transferred to your head.

Another style of helmet uses a very hard outer shell that reduces the likelihood of anything penetrating the helmet, such as a sharp rock or branch, during an impact.

The visor or brim on most helmets is flexible or will snap off in the event of an impact.

Whichever style you decide to purchase, a secure fit is very important.

When trying on a helmet, wear long hair in the style you would normally ride in. Some of the helmets with a very low rear profile do not accommodate a ponytail.

Measure the circumference of your head about one inch above your eyebrows to give your approximate helmet size in centimetres.

Some helmets have further adjustments available through a dial or ratchet system in the rear of the helmet and many have various sizes and thickness of foam pads that can be used to customise the fit. In addition the harness and chin strap will allow you to ensure that once fitted, the helmet sits level and straight on your head. Start with the adjustments at their loosest and gradually tighten, add padding and adjust the harness until the helmet feels snug and comfortable. The helmet should not tilt too far forward or back. The brim should be around an inch above your eyebrows and should sit straight. Shake your head from side to side and up and down. Your helmet should not wobble at all. You may be able to make further adjustments but if the helmet is sliding around or wobbling from front to back, you should look at the next size down or a different style.

Generally, endurance riders like a helmet that has good ventilation. Even on icy mornings the heat generated by vigorous riding is substantial and your head needs adequate cooling. Many of the modern sports style helmets differ from the traditional show or hunt cap styles in that they have numerous ventilation slots spaced around the helmet. These allow airflow and heat dissipation and also make the helmet lighter to wear. Black or dark helmets absorb more heat than pale coloured helmets and the difference can be felt quite easily when riding in hot sun.

Popular styles amongst experienced riders include the Tipperary Sportage, The Aussie 21, Zilco Oscar, LAS Hi Tek and GPA helmets. All are widely available.

If starting endurance riding you can use the saddlery and equestrian clothing you already own, as long as it meets the AERA rules and regulations. Once you decide you like the sport, then purchase purpose made endurance equipment and clothing.

Examine your helmet before you ride and if there are any cracks, chips, frayed harness or dents – replace it immediately. A damaged helmet can be as dangerous as no helmet at all.

Helmets that have suffered an impact from a fall or knock should be thrown out.

Remember, applying stickers, adhesive tapes, solvent based cleanser or attachments for helmet lights can interfere with the integrity of your helmet. Elastic straps for helmet lights can be threaded through special helmet clips that are made especially for that purpose.

Tops Given Australia’s enormous variations in climate you will find yourself needing garments ranging from lightweight t-shirts and polo shirts through to storm proof jackets. Your upper body tends to become very warm very quickly – take care not to over layer yourself at the start of a ride.

In the warmer months a lightweight poly cotton blend t-shirt or polo shirt will usually be most comfortable. Blended fabrics offer wicking properties, don’t absorb a lot of water if it rains and allow sweat to escape from your body.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 11

Sue Crockett This neatly attired rider is wearing a LAS Italian helmet, gloves and chapettes. He is riding in a French Gaston Mercier saddle and saddle pad with caged stirrups, using a beta biothane Add-On Bridle and a Zilco breastplate. The horse is wearing Professional Choice boots on his forelegs.

The addition of a vest is handy to ward off the early morning chill without becoming uncomfortably hot later on. Good quality micro polar fleece and lightweight technical soft shells are excellent choices for this layer as they are not overly heating and offer rain protection.

On freezing days the addition of a lightweight wool or cotton blend pullover, or even a thermal skivvy style top should see you through the worst of the weather when teamed with a waterproof jacket.

A lightweight, 100% waterproof jacket is a must for all riders. Specialty equestrian jackets usually have handy features such as two-way zips, pre-bent elbows, rear saddle vents, storm flap, adjustable wrist bands, underarm venting, reflective piping, zip-away hood and plenty of pockets.

Whatever jacket you choose make sure you ride in it to ensure it sits properly when you are mounted.

Standard ski type jackets are often completely the wrong shape once you are in the saddle.

Muddy Creek Rain Gear has ultra lightweight, waterproof and breathable raincoats that come in several colours. They are designed for riding and outdoor activities and come in long, mid and short length sizes with detachable pack-away hoods – the large hood fits over your helmet. The long raincoat also covers and protects your lower legs whilst riding.

For in between days with the chance of a shower, lightweight, shower-proof jackets that

12 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

pack into their own pocket can be stowed in a pocket or a bum bag or hung from a saddle D ring.

Long riding coats of the traditional Drizabone style can become extremely hot and heavy and whilst they are very cosy at the ride base, consider the lightweight versions of these iconic coats for riding in.

In addition to traditional equestrian riding tops, many sports apparel companies sell a wide range of tops, vests and jackets that are very reasonably priced and can be embroidered with your team logo or name.

Footwear There are many types of footwear worn by endurance riders. Safety, security and comfort are top priorities when spending hours in the saddle. Riders wear anything from running shoes, hikers and work boots through to specially designed endurance shoes and boots.

Some people prefer more traditional styled leather riding boots and some wear a top boot or long boot. Western style cowboy boots are also seen regularly. Fashion really needs to take a back seat to comfort and practicality when riding long distances, so you may want to leave your expensive top boots with the chiselled toes at home unless you really know they are going to be comfortable after hours and hours of riding.

Many people dismount and jog or walk with their horse and like to wear a shoe or boot that is as comfortable on the ground as it is in the

stirrup. The Ariat Terrain range and the Dublin Trekker and Pilgrim styles are a popular choice and other brands such as Mountain Horse also offer a good selection of this type of boot. Also common are many of the heeled hiker style boots you would find at outdoors or disposal stores. An aggressive tread pattern can become lodged firmly in the stirrup but an overly smooth sole can become very slippery, particularly if you have stepped in any mud or clay. Aim for a tread that offers some grip but that will slide out of the stirrup in the event of a fall. Take care that high instep or padded ankle boots are not too bulky, as they too can wedge in the stirrup and prevent you from falling clear of your horse.

Completely flat-soled sneakers can slip right into the stirrup with no heel to act as a stopper. Use caution if you choose this style and it is advisable to use a caged stirrup that will prevent your foot from sliding too far forward and becoming stuck. Many boots that are not designed for riding have little arch support, so whilst you may be able to walk or run in them for miles, they may not feel so comfortable after a few hours of rising trot.

Whether you choose leather or synthetic is a personal choice but whatever the material, it needs to be sturdy enough to cope with the rigours of riding. Many boots are not waterproof so consider this before committing to a certain style. An endurance rider having spent many

Photo courtesy of Ilia Panfilov

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Designed for the endurance or trail rider, the Ariat® Terrain Series provides true athletic styling and all day comfort for no matter where you ride…

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The Ariat® DuraTerrain H2O delivers the original core features of the Ariat® Terrain, with the added benefit of superior durability and Waterproof Pro™ technology – keeping your feet dry inside and out.

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ARIAT® TERRAIN Full grain leather and Cordura® upper. Moisture-wicking lining.

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ARIAT® ATS™ TECHNOLOGY COMFORT Gel-cushioned footbed for shock absorption

ARIAT® DURATERRAIN H2O Classic terrain styling built extra-tough for rugged working conditions. Waterproof Pro™ construction with waterproof oiled full grain leather upper. Double-layer reinforced toe area with Tec-Tuff toe guard. Shock absorbing EVA midsole. Duratread™ outsole.

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STABILITY SYSTEM Forked shank for stability and support DURABILITY Duratread™ outsole for longer wear

Just Country Australia Pty Ltd representing Ariat® International, Inc.

FREECALL 1800 427 428 | VISIT WWW.JUSTCOUNTRY.COM.AU ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 13

Sue Crockett The rider is wearing Stud One tights, chapettes, Italian LAS helmet and long-sleeved shirt with collar. The horse has on a beta biothane Add-On Bridle, a Pee-Wee bit made by Macs Equine, a Zilco endurance breastplate and Professional Choice boots. The saddle is an Isabel Werth Dressage saddle with a D-Lua Park wool saddlecloth.

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hours with wet, freezing cold feet is not generally a happy one!

More traditional styled jodhpur boots are generally quite comfortable as they are designed for riding but take care the toes are not too chiselled into a point as the pressure across the toes will become unbearable and can cause numbness and loss of feeling after riding for relatively short distances. A high stacked Cuban heel may look great with jeans but may not suit when your foot is in the stirrup. Elastic sided or lace-up styles are available from most major manufacturers.

Top boots can look lovely but you need to consider if they will make your legs too hot and become restrictive after many hours of wear. If you need a team of pullers to remove them after riding they are probably too restrictive and may interfere with your circulation. The synthetic black top boots can become extremely hot, inside and out, on a sunny day. They will, however, be handy if you need to dismount at a creek crossing or boggy area!

Whichever style of footwear you decide on, there are a few basics to consider: Do they fit well? A tight shoe or boot can become agonising after a short time. Is there enough width through the ball and toes? Cramped toes can be quite painful and become numb.

Are they well made? Shoddy stitching, cheap materials and poor manufacturing can see your boots rendered useless after just a few rides, particularly if they are not made specifically for horse riding. Wear around the crease line at the base of the toes and on the outer edges where contact is made with the stirrups is a common problem in non-riding boots.

Are they safe? The tread needs to be neither too aggressive nor too smooth. Bulk around the instep should be minimised and they need to withstand the normal knocks and bumps associated with handling horses and riding in the bush.

Do they offer support? A low-slung sneaker style will give little or no support to the ankles. A supported ankle area can increase your comfort level substantially.

Chapettes and Gaiters In addition to your footwear, you may wish to wear chapettes (short chaps or half chaps) or gaiters. These items of leg wear are mainly used to protect the rider’s lower leg from rubbing and chafing against the saddle flap, stirrup leather or the horse’s sides.

There are a huge variety of chaps and gaiters available nowadays and most styles come in a range of sizes to suit all leg sizes, including ‘plus size’ calf widths. The length or height is as an important fitting consideration as the width, as a chap that is too long and pinching into the soft folds of skin behind your knee can become very painful.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 15

Materials vary from suede, leather, synthetic suedette, synthetic leatherette, neoprene, and technical fabric blends. There’s a huge array of colour choices with some styles and many people match their chaps to their team colours, tack or jodhpur colours.

The simplest styles are a fairly straight cut suede or leather with a small ‘tent’ at the lower front to go over your instep and velcro tabs to do them up. A band of wide elastic is fitted to slip under your boot, which keeps the chap from riding up. This very simple style can be a little bulky at the instep area, so check that you are not going to become jammed into the stirrup if you choose this style.

There are more sculpted styles that have a tailored cut that fits more closely around the lower leg. These usually have a full length zipper up the back and often have an area of elasticised material either at the top or extending all the way down to ensure a more streamlined and comfortable fit.

The most streamlined and variable fit styles are made from lightweight technical fabrics designed to offer protection without bulk, and have stretch throughout the garment to ensure a comfortable and snug fit. They are generally water repellent and do not overheat the rider’s leg.

Leather gaiters designed for use with leather short boots are usually the most expensive option and they must be fitted very carefully as there is little ‘give’ and the height of the gaiter must sit perfectly when the rider’s leg is bent in the saddle.

Full chaps are rarely seen on endurance riders, however, there are some styles of riding jeans that have a full chap in leather or synthetic material sewn into the garment itself.

Be aware – if wearing a chap with an elastic keeper under the boot and you fall off your horse and are dragged with a foot twisted and caught in the stirrup, your boot will not come away from your foot if held in place by the keeper.

A simple solution is to cut off the band of elastic.

Socks Socks may not seem too important until you have ridden for eight hours or more in socks with a hole in the toe, or wet socks! Just as your boots will be extremely important to your overall comfort, your socks will also be part of the equation to ensure comfy feet. At this stage I should add that short toenails are a must. Riding with long toenails can cause a lot of pain and lead to blood blisters, infected nails and ingrown nails. Socks with a blend of natural and synthetic fibres such as 90% wool or cotton and 10% nylon/elastene mix are ideal.

Tight bands at the top of the sock should be avoided as they can cut in after a long period of riding.

An extra layer of cushioning in the foot bed and a reinforced layer at the toes will give your feet some padding and stop your toe nails prodding through the material.

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These riders are wearing Muddy Creek raincoats.

Whether you wear your socks under your pants or over the top is personal choice. Long socks over jodhpurs can act as a light chapette and friction is transferred from the sock to the pants. Any equestrian retailer or online store will have a good selection of long riding socks and most outdoor stores sell boot socks. Humphrey Laws, the humble Aussie Explorer and Ariat are all good choices for riding.

Cheaper work socks in 100% synthetic fibre are not a very good choice as the material does not breathe at all and friction creates a burn effect on the foot after time.

People who use pantyhose or tights under their riding pants often choose footless versions so they do not have the nylon layer on their feet.

Pants Jeans, jodhpurs, breeches, tights, leggings, skins or compression pants, shorts, chinos, moleskins, cargo pants and track pants are all seen at endurance rides!

When it comes to your riding pants it is most definitely a case of personal choice based on experience.

Many riders start out riding in their jeans and then find the longer distances become uncomfortable and change to a more rider specific pant. Some men add a pair of nylon or lycra tights or pantyhose under their jeans to prevent rubbing and chafing from hairy legs. This seems to create some embarrassment and laughter but if you want to ride in jeans and a pair of tights makes it more comfortable, then it’s a wise move! Any of the looser leg pant styles such as cargo pants and track pants are prone to riding up the leg. If you wish to wear this style make sure you have ridden for long hours in them before wearing them at an endurance ride. Tucking the legs into socks can help but can also add more material to ultimately cause rubs and chafing.

It’s no accident the most experienced riders tend to wear close fitting styled jodhpurs or

Tracey Bavinton

Tracey Bavinton

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This young lady is wearing a long-sleeved shirt, Peter Williams stretch blue denim jodhpurs and jodhpur boots.

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Coloured jodhpurs.

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Ariat boots.

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Heritage Ultralite Gloves.

riding tights designed specifically for the job.

Jodhpurs designed for endurance are generally made of blended fabrics that are light and dry quickly. The flat seams are usually placed to avoid rubbing on the backside or inner leg.

Pull-on styles with elasticised waist bands rather than zip fly and press stud can feel less restrictive when sitting in the saddle for long periods. Several Australian manufacturers produce jodhpurs specifically for endurance riding and they are available in a wide size range, several fabric choices and have coloured inserts that match with the rider’s stable colour.

Printed letters down the leg show off the stable, team, or horse’s name.

Standard styles from equestrian stores, particularly those with a suede seat or ‘sticky bum’, can cause rubs where the materials are stitched together and wrinkle up behind the knees. Some of the fashionable brands are made from very firm fabric that can feel heavy

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and restrictive. Ensure you trial your jodhpurs on a few long rides to make sure they aren’t going to cause rubs or feel hot and tight.

Many people are now riding in the skins or compression pants used by athletes from many sporting backgrounds. They claim to reduce fatigue by directing blood flow to the heart and to reduce recovery time. Whether the claims are substantiated or not, these spandex type garments perform well as a jodhpur as they fit closely to the skin and have little stitching and few seams to rub and chafe.

Ladies Only Lady riders need to ensure their breasts are supported adequately whilst riding. The trauma to breast tissue after hours of riding is substantial and can lead to severe discomfort and possible medical problems.

Bras fall into several categories. Underwired, soft cup, encapsulation and compression.

Underwired bras rely on the wire to give lift and

support to the breast whilst soft cup styles use bands of fabric to give support under and between the breasts. Compression bras basically squash the breasts close to the body and hold them there firmly and encapsulation bras envelop each breast in a very firm fabric so there is little movement in any direction.

Whichever of the styles you choose, you need to look for high impact support from one or a combination of supports, wide shoulder straps to distribute the weight of the breast, fabric that is breathable and comfortable and a wide wing and back to avoid digging in. Specialty bras for horse riders are available including the Enell range but any good retailer will help you choose the right bra. A close fitting sports crop top over your bra can give additional compression and support.

Gloves Gloves are a must for most riders. Apart from keeping hands warm and dry in cold, wet weather, they protect you from the reins chafing your skin.

Riding gloves can be as humble as the inexpensive pimple grip track glove, great for normal riding conditions on a dry day. For wet rides, waterproof gloves are essential as the airflow over wet fabric can create freezing cold hands to the point of numbness. A close fitting, waterproof glove with a secure wristband allows you to still feel the reins and cope with fiddley buckles and items of tack. Most equine retailers and online stores stock a wide range of riding gloves but try to choose a style that is known to be long wearing. Some of the gloves designed for the show ring will be shredded after one training ride!

Don’t forget many touch screen phones and GPSs with touch screens or touch bezels rely on fingertips to operate them. They do not recognise a gloved finger. Some new glove styles have recently come on the market incorporating fingertips that allow you to still operate your electronic gadgetry!

Lighting Whilst introductory rides and training rides always take place in daylight hours, most endurance rides of 80kms or more will entail some riding in the dark.

In days gone by many riders used a torch or simply relied on moonlight! The majority of riders now make use of one of the huge array of head torches or helmet lights.

The styles and brands are too numerous to cover adequately here. Do some research before making your purchase. Cycling and outdoor adventure stores are often a good place to start your search.

Considerations include: n The number of hours of lighting or burn time from one charge or from one set of batteries. Will it last for a whole leg of a

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 17

Sue Crockett

A smartly turned out duo. ride? Will it last for a 160-kilometre ride with multiple dark legs? n The weight of the unit on your head. If too heavy does it have a lead which allows you to carry the power source in a pocket or bum bag? n Brightness and penetration of the light beam. Can you see arrows on trees, potholes or rocks in the track or does it just give a weak flood of light just in front of you? Does it have multiple modes with high and low beam or wide and narrow beam to enable longer burn time or to pin point things in the distance? n Globes. Tungsten bulbs are not that bright and don’t actually last a long

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time, but on the other hand Halogen bulbs give you the brightest output but also eat battery life like it’s going out of fashion. They do, however, make you feel like you’re surrounded by daylight when you are in pitchblack conditions.

Xenon and Krypton bulbs are commonly found in head torches these days and are a halogen hybrid with good battery life without compromising the brightness.

The longest burning times comes from LED bulbs that last over 20 times longer than the other three put together! These bulbs can never blow, so you won’t need as many replacements but they aren’t that bright.

n Power source. Many of the lighter models operate for many hours with small alkaline batteries. For serious lighting the units with rechargeable lithium batteries give the most output but you will need a power source to recharge or an extra battery pack at rides where you expect long periods of riding in the dark. n Angle. Are you able to swivel the unit up and down to get the light focused correctly when mounted on a horse? n Attachment. How will you attach the unit to your helmet? Does it have elastic straps to go over and around your helmet? Will the power pack sit comfortably on the back or top of your helmet without wobbling or causing your head and neck to feel heavily weighted? Special helmet clips allow you to attach the straps to your helmet neatly and securely. As mentioned previously, use of adhesives, tapes and mounting attachments can affect the integrity of your helmet, so take care with securing your head torch.

Whichever light you choose, make sure you train your horse with the light before using it at a ride. Horses can spook badly at the light beam if they are not familiarised with it at home.

GPS Units Whether you are after a hi tech training tool with the ability to download results for analysis and map comparison, or simply a way to check how fast or how far you are going, a wrist mount or small hand held GPS has become an extremely useful and affordable item for many riders. The newer models are as small as a wristwatch and are used to keep track of distance travelled, time out on course, current speed, average speed, elevation, location and all manner of other fields to help you keep track of your ride. They also operate as a watch and a stopwatch giving you an all-in-one unit on your wrist.

Some models come complete with a heart rate monitor so you can constantly monitor your horse from the saddle.

The more popular brands for riders include models by Polar and Garmin. As with head torches, research before making a purchase and ensure it has the fields you need, the battery life to last throughout a ride and is easy to read the screen and operate whilst mounted on a horse.

As with all small sporting organisations, there are manufacturers and retailers who support the clubs, participants, events and the sport as a whole by attending events, taking paid advertisements in our publications and who make available the specialised gear we all like to buy. If at all possible, consider purchasing from these sellers when you are outfitting yourself for endurance riding and put your dollars into an Australian company who supports the sport you love!

Breeding for conformation, stamina, temperament and versatility

OSO Arabians offers for sale a selection of qualified endurance horses, youngstock, breeding and show horses.

Ian Cossor

Visitors most welcome

Amanda and Andrew Kettlewell

For further information please contact: | P: (02) 6020 3286 | M: 0428 739 625

w w w.os oa r a bia ns .com. au

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E: info@osoarabians.com.au

No Back, No Endurance Horse Words by Jane Clothier Photography by Sue Crockett

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here’s a phrase that most horse people are familiar with, which is said to date from the mid-18th century: ‘’no foot, no horse”. An expression that could be added today is equally true: ‘’no back, no horse’’. It’s only in the past couple of decades that an increased understanding of the horse’s anatomical structures and biomechanics has led to this way of thinking, with a range of developments in saddlery and the increased use of various equine health professionals and techniques to manage horses’ wellbeing.

The sport of endurance riding, established and run with the influential presence of the veterinary profession has always been fast to trial and adopt practices that are beneficial to the horse’s condition and performance over distance. For those already involved with the sport, the importance of avoiding back pain through good horse management is hardly a new idea. Indeed, there has often been little choice but to take it on board, as back problems invariably lead to vetting out.

However, once the problem is recognisable at this stage, it may already be wellestablished. White patches and rubs under the saddle area are signs of issues, but many problems are less visible and don’t show up at the rides. Look around at any endurance ride and it’s possible to see a fair number of bumpy spines, angular rumps and pointed croups. Whilst in the case of many Arabians the croup-high look is conformational, the extreme versions of this look often coincide with poor back condition. It can mean the lumbar muscles are weak, the pelvis is rotated forward and the sacroiliac joint is under stress, creating a risk of permanent ligament damage. If this eventuates, the affected horses may have a much-shortened career. For this

20 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

reason, a preventative approach is far more advisable.

How should the person managing an endurance horse go about avoiding back issues? The saddle is an obvious starting point.

This too is nothing new: many seasoned riders are familiar with the drawn-out saddle-fit saga, when a fantastic new saddle that the rider loves appears to fit and then, after two or three rides, suddenly fails to do so.

This frustrating development is due in part to the nature of the sport itself. Over distance, even a minor fitting flaw is multiplied up in just the same way as a repetitive strain injury (RSI) for someone in an unhealthy working situation.

This is why endurance horses can develop

white hair patches due to friction rubs from a saddle after just one ride.

The ramifications are wider: a small pressure point can lead to an area of painful, circulation impaired and damaged muscle that can then affect other muscles that are compensating. If not treated, these problems can lead to postural irregularity and, over time, a spinal subluxation (misalignment) here or there. For the endurance horse, ‘over time’ can mean a couple of weeks in full training.

Next, factor in the weight loss that can occur during a single ride and an initially minor problem due to imperfect saddle fit can worsen at an alarming rate. Meanwhile, it becomes progressively harder for the horse to

Massaging the entire back after work will help maintain good circulation.

move effectively and there is a higher chance of lameness ensuing due to misalignment through the limbs and the concussive forces caused by a braced back.

The task of finding a correct saddle is further complicated by the shape of the horses themselves. As already mentioned, the Arabians that predominate in the sport are often croup high. They are also often short-backed with a fairly dipped top line.

Even outside the sport, the breed is recognised as often being hard to fit, due to the combination of conformational features they can present.

Arabians are compact horses that are strong enough to carry full size adult riders, yet, as with any horse, there is the issue of where that weight is to be carried. Adequate weight distribution across the entire saddle area (over the ribs, clear of the shoulder blade, clear of the spine and ‘shelf’ of the ribs) is vital. Short, dipped backs combined with high croups run a risk of bridging saddles. Bridging is when there is poor contact between the centre of the saddle, beneath the rider’s seat, and the horse’s back. Longish saddles will also push heavily into the lumbar area. The rider’s weight is focused into smaller areas, often causing areas

of intense pressure. These may develop into visible pressure points or lead to a more generalised area of muscle wastage and postural irregularity. Neither outcome is desirable and padding will not bring relief, even if everything looks better for a while.

Conformation is far from the only consideration: the individual horse’s way of moving is also a key factor. This can be positively influenced through training on the track and at home in the arena or paddock.

The endurance rider who ‘‘legs up’’ their horse at the start of the training period is doing more than strengthening the legs, as they are also giving the back muscles opportunity to strengthen without being overworked. At a fast walk, all the horse’s muscles are tightening and releasing at regular intervals, building condition. When trotting on flat terrain is introduced, riding on different diagonals helps the back muscles to develop bilaterally, increasing in strength and suppleness.

As hill work is brought in, walking up inclines further strengthens the lumbar and hindquarter muscle groups, strengthening the area that supports the vulnerable sacroiliac. It is worth noting that trotting at different speeds also benefits this articulation of the pelvis and

spine, gradually mobilising the joint in a positive way, whereas unvaried high-speed, highly extended trot stresses it (off-the-track Standardbreds being testament to this). Once cantering, it pays to work on both leads, again so that strength develops on both sides of the horse.

Some form of bodywork will hugely benefit the horse at this stage, for as muscles are exercised, micro tears develop in the muscle fibres. This leads to minor swelling of the tissues and this in turn pressurises nerve receptors and causes pain once the body is cooled. That’s why we experience muscle soreness after new or additional exercise.

Massage or some other form of soft tissue work will ensure loose, elastic muscle fibre that heals ‘long and loose’, rather than ‘short and tight’, as may happen if a little too much has been done too soon. Massaging the entire back and especially the saddle area after work will also help maintain good circulation.

There is more that can be done to benefit the back during the training stages. In any field, the best athletes combine muscular strength with suppleness, as this is known to heighten performance and athletic longevity.

For many endurance horses, an absence of

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 21

Riding on different diagonals helps the back muscles to develop bilaterally.

flatwork and lateral work means the horse is only used to forward movement, and so fails to develop general balance, rhythm and flow in its movement. Amongst other things, this leads to tension through the back, along with heightened concussion that in turn leads to lameness. If the horse also pulls during a ride, raising its head, tensing the neck and inverting its normal spinal curves (hollowing), then you may have a serious back issue waiting to happen.

Self-carriage is important for any horse that is ridden, as it is the basic ability to use its back to carry a rider. Training for this can take many forms, from basic unridden pole work using cavaletti – poles raised about 12” and placed at regular and irregular intervals, or in patterns – to a program of classical in-hand lungeing or long -lining. A note about lungeing: this is not the same kind of work that involves a horse ‘’motorbiking’’ around a stationary human on the end of a line, and nor is it a stationary human flicking a rope to send a loose horse around a round pen. Rather, it is a progressive method of training a horse to move in a balanced way, to flex laterally, lift itself through the thoracic vertebrae and establish rhythm without restraint, without weighting the inside limbs or leaning.

Whichever approach a rider takes to strengthening their horse, the goal must always be to develop a horse that possesses the strength and condition to carry a rider over distance, without incurring physical

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problems that will affect its health and prohibit completion of the season.

Inevitably, the riding equation always includes horse, saddle and rider. The challenge is not only to find a saddle that is comfortable for the horse, but that’s also comfortable for the rider on a long distance ride. With that achieved, it’s time to look at how the rider’s position affects the horse that supports them. All too often, riders sit well back in the saddle for comfort’s sake, with their feet forward. They don’t realise that they are placing their weight predominantly to the back of the saddle, levering it back onto the lower thoracic and even the higher lumbar vertebrae – in other words, the weaker part of the horse’s back. This can be disastrous if the saddle is slightly too long or the horse’s back rises sharply up through the loins. The horse’s inevitable response is to brace the back muscles and, when these grow tired, to dip and hollow the back.

Unfortunately, this worsens the problem and a vicious circle is established.

The more we look into postural issues, the more apparent it is that everything is interconnected. A holistic approach to sports horses (indeed, any horse) is always beneficial. Dentistry and hoofcare are critical: for instance, horses that are underrun in the heels experience stress through the joints of the limbs due to misalignment, leading to strain in the tilted quarters that can then lead to spinal issues.

There are many variations on this theme; a horse does not have to be visibly unsound to experience the flow-on effects of incorrect hoof imbalance. Likewise, dental problems can lead to an altered head carriage and subsequent deviations in the spine – yes, even if the horse is working without a bit.

There are no fixed solutions: the recipe for good back health is as individual as the horse and rider partnership. By being conscious of the problems that can develop, the rider can at least do more to prevent them arising. This means learning to check the horse’s back properly or getting a professional to do it (a proper back check is a lot more comprehensive than that performed by vets at rides). It is often true that the best athletes have teams of allied health professionals behind them and the same goes for horses, so the serious endurance rider should have their team in place or learn to administer various care approaches themselves. It can be hard work getting it right, but the rewards as the partnership moves beyond the days of niggling problems and vet outs are phenomenal.

Jane Clothier works in the Northern Rivers region of NSW, providing bodywork for horses and saddle fitting under her practice, Balanced Horse. She fits saddles on behalf of Aitkens Saddlery of Brisbane (QLD) in the Northern Rivers and runs workshops, including Saddle Fit Essentials for Horse Owners.

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Pioneer Arabians Endurance Horses

Breeding Beautiful Athletes & Personalised Endurance Training

Pioneer Park Azaylia (Turingal Park Nijinski x Azaria) FEI** mare, successful 320km Far-a-Way Marathon 2012 100% ride completion rate Pioneer Arabians currently have available young endurance prospects from proven parentage including a spectacular colt, a half sibling to the mare pictured.

We also welcome your enquiry regarding having your horse trained for Endurance with us at Pioneer Endurance Training.

Contact: Melissa & Stephen Longhurst Pioneer Park, Finch Hatton, Queensland M: 0447 583 096 E: melissa@pioneerarabians.com www.pioneerarabians.com

Back health is imperative for any equestrian activity.

Equine Back Health and

Wellbeing Words by Tony Smith

B.V.Sc. Dip. Animal Chiropractic (R.M.I.T.)

Photography by Sharon Meyers

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ood health and function of the horse’s back is critical to its performance, even for a pleasure rider who goes out occasionally.

If the horse’s back is sore then neither horse nor rider has fun.

Many things affect the back and therefore need to be monitored, some being hoof balance and saddle fit. A qualified saddle fitter and farrier should be consulted for these issues.

While severe problems may need to be rectified by a chiropractor, there are plenty of things the rider can do on a daily basis to maintain back health and function.

Mobilising the spine to maintain good function can easily be done by the rider.

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Areas such as wither, pelvis and spine have a huge input into back muscle function. To work on these it is important to have a basic understanding of the underlying anatomy. In my daily practice as a veterinary chiropractor, I always request my horse owners do post treatment maintenance exercises, before saddling and after work. I find the rider is more likely to do these back maintenance exercises if I explain the relevant anatomy.

The first anatomical point to make is that vertebrae move in a set way relative to each other. Between each pair of vertebrae there is a boney gap surrounded by a fibrous ring called the intervertebral foramen.

With vertebral movement, the intervertebral foramen changes shape. For example, when the back (vertebral column) arches up, the foramen opens slightly. When the back arches down, the foramen quickly becomes narrow and so squeezes the structures (artery, vein, nerves etc.) passing through it.

Many of my treatments involve releasing the vertebrae that are locked down. As maintenance after treatment I ask my clients to arch their horse’s back before and after work.

Before Work: The horse may have played hard in the paddock since its last ride and be slightly locked down. By simply scratching the rump to

My clients use the neck flex to make the horse mobilise its wither by using a treat to ask the horse to flex its neck (carrot, apple, grain etc.).

Force should never be used to achieve this.

If the horse is unable to get to the flank, I imagine it saying, “The treat looks great but I can’t go any further”. That is when it is time for a treatment.

Once the horse has completed a flex to the left and right flank, the rider knows the front half of the trunk is ready for work, and with two simple exercises the maintenance is complete.

My next request is: 1. While mounted the rider makes the horse step over a high log (30 to 60cm). While doing this, the horse twists and flexes the back.

2. Turn tightly around a tree trunk or power pole. During this exercise the back is flexed such that all the ribs in the rib cage are mobilised.

If a horse’s back is sore then neither horse nor rider has fun.

make the back arch up before exercise, the rider knows the lower back should be in a neutral strong position, ready for work.

After Work: The back may have sagged because horse and rider may exceed the limits of endurance of the back muscles, which results in the back sagging and locking it slightly. Arching the back after work, the rider knows that the horse will stay strong and healthy while resting.

My second requested exercise is neck flexing. Using a hand held treat, the rider asks the horse to follow the treat to the girth and then to the flank. When the muzzle arrives at the girth, the neck has been fully flexed.

Now comes the fun part. To be able to follow the treat to the flank, the horse must not only flex the neck, but also flex and rotate all the vertebrae in the wither. When I treat a problem in the wither, I use the neck flex to assess the function of the wither.

These two ridden exercises ensure all parts of the back are stretched and mobile before work is started. It also lets the horse understand all movements will be pain free.

In general terms, any exercise that caused the back to arch up is good. Conversely, any factor that caused the back to hollow (arch down) is bad.

When hoof balance is such that toes are too long, the end result is that the back is arched down. When the saddle is not fitted well, the resultant pain causes the back to arch away from this pain and lock down. Up is good.

Down is bad. The horse’s back cannot stay supple and healthy if the horse is unbalanced or has a saddle that does not fit correctly.

If it is not immediately obvious that the back is a problem, the rider may be interested to know the following symptoms can be indicative: n Carrying head high during work n Poor stamina n Girthy and unhappy n Not stepping through with hind legs n Difficulty with transitions n Difficulty walking up and down hills n Unhappy to flex one way n Unhappy to go onto one lead n Tail swishing and ears back n Excessive shying n The rider often has a sore back Some of these symptoms may be cleared by using the above exercises. If they persist then a qualified chiropractor needs to be consulted. Enjoy your ride.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 25

Sue Crockett

Sue Crockett

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Gotcha!

Dr Brian Sheahan (left), Michael Coombes with Dr Martha Misheff from Canada.

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Announcer, Chris Enstrom.

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Easter Bunny, Kathryn Priol.

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Meg Wade and Chris Gates.

5

Endurance rider and worker, Melissa Longhurst.

6

Endurance personality, Barb Timms.

Sue Crockett

1

3 4

Jo Arblaster

Sue Crockett

Jo Arblaster

26 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

5 6

Sue Crockett

Fundamentals of Endurance Saddle Fit

By Alan Mackinder

I

have been invited to give my thoughts on saddling the endurance horse.

I started my saddle making apprenticeship in 1975 and did my first endurance ride in 1976 at St Albans 60 (100km). The passion for endurance riding led me to all levels of endurance, having wins and also Best Conditioned awards in both the Tom Quilty (160km) and Shahzada Memorial (400km). In 1994 riding Vanay Park Ambassador, aka Tom, in the longest affiliated endurance ride in Australia – 800km from Melbourne to Sydney – I was the only rider to complete this distance and also was awarded Best Conditioned horse. I was also the first rider to gain 4,000km or ten Shahzada buckles.

28 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

I have completed over 18,000kms successfully, completing over 150 rides on 38 different horses in endurance riding at an average weight of 100kg. I guess the combination of being an endurance rider and a saddle maker that specialises in making only endurance saddles should give a unique insight into the subject of saddle fit.

Saddles are constantly evolving with new materials and improved designs. Earliest saddles were simple pads fastened to horses’ backs using a strap in around 800 BC. Saddle trees came into use circa 200 BC and stirrups by 302 AD. Warfare was vastly improved for the countries that embraced and utilised these developments. The saddle (pad) and stirrup gave comfort to both man and beast.

In 2012 I hesitate to say, with all our advancements, that no individual has all the answers to saddle fitting. There is a lot of information around; some extremely relevant, some incorrect. I hope to maybe help you in your evaluation.

Since I was last asked to put pen to paper so to speak, ten or 12 years have passed. In that time major emphasis has been put on the flexibility of saddle trees, treeless saddles, modular components and air panels to name a few areas of change. I guess all this means the industry is listening to the fact that the perfect saddle for every horse and rider combination is still on the way!

As you would be aware there are literally hundreds of different models of saddles on the

world market today. I would not have enough space to dedicate to the idiosyncrasies of each saddle’s construction (for this you would need to confer with individual makers) as no one would know their saddle better than its maker.

Instead, to some degree, I will need to generalise but also with principles that always apply.

Cardinal Rules of Saddle Fit n The wither must bear no weight or pressure. n The scapula (shoulder blade) must have unrestricted movement. n The spine must have no weight or pressure applied in any form. n The rider’s weight must be carried on the rib cage via the muscles. n Weight must be distributed evenly between the eighth and eighteenth rib.

Endurance horses are predominately of Arabian breeding, many of which have one less thoracic vertebrae than other breeds (18) which corresponds to the fact they have also one less pair of ribs (17 pairs). The thoracic (chest) cavity is therefore more compact. The rib cage is more widely sprung and allows more heart and lung room that makes up part of the reason for the suitability of Arabians for endurance riding.

Having well sprung ribs with short, strong loins makes Arabians well equipped to carry weight over long distances. The weight bearing area in a saddle designed for endurance needs to be compact and wide, as opposed to a dressage saddle where by design the panel is reduced under the rider’s thigh area so the leg will fall straight.

Dressage tests last between three to six minutes, quite a bit less than an endurance ride!

When placing the saddle on the horse I like to look firstly without a saddle cloth and then repeat the fitting process with the intended saddle cloth. Place the saddle on the horse a little forward and then slide it back until it rests at the junction of the shoulder and back. This area is usually fairly definitive as the end of the shoulder lowers to the back. If you have difficulty locating it, have an assistant lift the front leg forward whilst you keep contact with the area described (also known as the “play” of shoulder). You will actually feel the shoulder rotate and feel its range of motion as to how far it actually moves. Range of motion is affected if the saddle does not clear this area, thus the horse shortens stride to compensate.

The deepest point in the seat of the saddle must sit so the rider is positioned over the

horse’s centre of balance. (See Figure 1: Reference Points). The centre of balance varies with speed. The greater the speed the more forward the centre of gravity.

Once you are happy that you have achieved these parameters, note the position of the saddle and then remove and repeat fitting with the saddle cloth. When examining the fit of a saddle at the wither it is extremely important that the saddle tree does not have any contact either vertically (on top) or laterally (at side).

A lot of advertising focuses on gullet and head bar fit but this is only one part of the fitting equation. When widening or narrowing the front of the tree it can have an effect on the balance of the saddle, so compensatory adjustment to panel fill may be required.

Next we need to ascertain that the panel (underside) of the saddle has maximum surface contact with the support area of the horse’s back, not on the wither or spine.

Saddles stuffed with wool or flock need to sit evenly and bear weight throughout the panel surface as the fill settles with little or no memory. There are a number of saddles that use “memory” foam. This does not mean the panel retains the shape of the horse but actually alters to pressure that is

Figure 1: Reference Points.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 29

Figure 2: Adequate wither clearance.

Figure 3: Ensure the front of the panel is sitting behind the point of the scapula.

Figure 4: Cross section view of common wither and tree fitting problems.

Check your horse's back and saddle fit daily.

30 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

applied to it, and once the pressure is removed or the saddle taken off the horse, after a period of time the foam goes back to the manufacturers’ specifications (ie. its original properties).

Good quality memory foam is usually temperature and pressure activated, so contact needs to be assessed after ten to 15 minutes of use. Another variation for panel cushioning is using air. The Cair system uses two bladders with a factory set low psi that is not adjustable, but this system is combined with stuffing and this component can be altered. Another air system is called Flair and again has two bladders in either panel side, so four in total. The nearside and the offside at the front are connected by valves, so the air pressure can be increased or decreased simultaneously. The rear bladders are also connected so they can be increased or decreased in the same manner.

Once you are happy that the wither is not compromised and the panel has full bearing, it is time to look at the balance of the saddle. That is the point where your pelvis (fork) contacts the saddle. For you to be sitting over the horse’s centre of gravity, the lowest point in the centre of the saddle needs to be vertically in line with the horse’s centre of gravity. This would be the position you would sit if you were mounted bareback without a saddle.

For treeless and flexible treed saddles this again may be best evaluated after the saddle has been ridden in as the dynamics of these saddles alter in motion. For example a thermo/ pressure sensitive foam only reaches its optimum shape once the temperature of the horse takes effect on the foam and, with the rider’s weight, forms the desired interaction.

The Panel The panel has an unenviable task. It acts as the interface between the underside of the tree or seating structure and also has to distribute the rider’s weight. Job description sounds simple enough but when you add to the equation approximately 20% of the horse’s body weight on top (in the form of a passenger) swaying in the breeze and travelling across uneven terrain, there is enormous pressure exerted into this area.

Load or weight bearing is usually expressed in “pounds per square inch aka lbs per sq inch”.

Specialist endurance saddles have longer, wider panels to help in the effort to reduce how many pounds per square inch are loaded onto the bearing surface of a horse’s back. It is generally accepted that the integrity of a horse’s back is compromised at more than 1.5 pounds per square inch.

It is a relatively simple exercise to calculate the support area in terms of pounds per square inch by calculating the support area on the underside of the panel and dividing it by the weight carried (saddle and rider weight). See examples on the next page.

Figure 5: Cantle (rear) too high, Vertical C – D too far forward.

Figure 6: Cantle slightly higher than pommel, vertical C – D is in the centre of the seat (ideal).

Figure 7: Pommel (front) too high, vertical C – D too far back.

Table: Pounds Per Square Inch Area + Weight = lbs per sq inch Example: 205 lbs ÷ 195 = 1.05 lbs per sq inch

Type

Panel Dimensions

Specialist Endurance Saddle

19.5” x 5” x 2 (panels) = 195

Military Style Endurance Saddle

20” x 4” x 2 (panels) = 160

Popular Dressage Saddle

18” x 3.5” x 2 (panels) = 126

Weight Carried

Panel Support Area (sq inches)

205 lbs (93kgs) 165 lbs (75kgs) 205 lbs (93kgs) 165 lbs (75kgs) 205 lbs (93kgs) 165 lbs (75kgs)

195

160

126

lbs per Sq. Inch 1.05 0.84 1.28 1.03 1.62 1.30

Note: For military style saddle; width of bare tree without felt covering (for calculation), as support comes from tree boards in this type of construction.

The results of this exercise are obvious that the purpose built saddle for endurance with the larger surface area comes in well below the desired 1.5 lbs per sq inch as opposed to the dressage saddle (not designed for endurance).

It is not really possible for me to calculate with a degree of accuracy the support area relating to a treeless saddle due to its very own nature. When sitting in a treeless saddle it takes relatively little effort to lift the saddle in areas not occupied by the rider, indicating the weight is borne directly under the rider’s seat so imprint is relatively small. This may be why some treeless saddles have rider weight restrictions.

Again the figure of 1.5 lbs per sq inch is a maximum, so if a saddle or rider are not balanced from the centre, just like a see saw, the weight tips forward or aft and the concentrated weight creates more unacceptable pressure.

When looking at the effect of correct panel fit relating to endurance performance saddle cloths, build up pads, anti slip pads and pads to save you washing your saddle cloth, all should come in for close scrutiny. The function of a saddle cloth is simply to absorb and reduce the amount of sweat that penetrates the saddle! Adding second saddle cloths and saddle pads under saddles is simply a band aid. In the case of a saddle that is too wide,

there may be some debate that there is room for a pad or such to fill the gap, but if this pad is placed under a correctly fitting saddle or worse still, a slightly too narrow saddle, the opposite is achieved. The saddle becomes narrower, increasing pressure – like wearing two socks with shoes that already fit. Saddle designers incorporate close contact in their saddles to put the rider closer to the horse’s centre of gravity. By using double saddle cloths or pads this negates the fit and closeness and can also have a destabilising effect, actually raising the point of balance.

Front and rear riser or lift pads to alleviate incorrect balance of a saddle are of great

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 31

Sue Crockett The horse’s centre of gravity moves as he does and naturally the rider moves in response to this activity. concern. After having looked at the function of the panel and then the effect of uneven pressure, think about placing a piece of foam thicker at one end than the other (a wedge) under the saddle. Does this not conflict with having a smooth, continuous lump free surface against the horse’s back? Hans Christian Andersen’s The Princess and the Pea and the mattresses comes to mind – lumps and bumps multiply pressure points.

The first line of defence for riders is they didn’t know their saddle didn’t fit. I bet you would know if your shoe didn’t fit! As endurance riders it is our job to ensure all the

32 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

needs of our partner, who by the way doesn’t have a choice in being the beast of burden, are met. We feed, train, worm and shoe. On a daily basis we monitor our horse’s consumption of water and food and his progress in training.

Is it not part of our craft as an endurance rider to constantly observe the horse’s coping mechanisms in all aspects as part of our daily routine? We can and should automatically check our mount’s back before saddling each day and again after training when unsaddling, just second nature as any other parameter. It takes but a minute at both ends of the training session to observe variations in sweat and hair

patterns and to run your hand along the back checking for degrees of discomfort, also observing any idiosyncrasies of each animal.

Uneven sweat patterns or hair that is laying in the reverse direction to its pattern of growth may indicate increased pressure causing reduced blood circulation.

Two of the most common causes of equine back soreness are improper saddle fit and unbalanced, un-centred riders. It is important to understand the effect the rider has on the function of the saddle on the horse. Length of saddle tree measured in inches or centimetres is related to the seat size for the rider. A consequence of a rider in too short a saddle is increased pressure on the rear of the saddle (cantle), which is then transferred into the panel which is driven into the poor horse’s back. Regardless of the style of saddle when endurance riding, you need room in the saddle so as the horse travels and covers uneven ground you can adjust your balance as required.

The centre of gravity for humans is somewhere around their belly button. The key to riding in balance with your horse is to be aligned with his centre of gravity. Refer to Figure 1.

The horse’s centre of gravity moves as he does and naturally the rider moves in response to this activity. This is why you need a saddle seat not too small.

The centre of balance applies to control of the rider’s body not tipping too far forward or leaning too far back and not swaying from side to side. This means even pressure on both seat bones. When you are balanced over your horse’s centre of gravity you will be more comfortable and you will help him stay balanced as well.

Stirrup length is a very personal preference.

Or is it? Ride too short and you ride behind the horse’s centre of gravity in a position akin to sitting on a chair. Ride too long, you have no control over your lower leg or feet, your upper body tips forward then your weight is concentrated into the area at the front of the saddle near the stirrup bar or attachment which creates unbalanced pressure. You also have no support from your legs or seat if the hose shies or props as Arabians sometimes do. To attain the optimum position and rider balance, heels need to be lower than toes in the stirrup. Head, hips and heels need to be aligned with the horse’s axis of movement or moving centre of gravity.

Saddling a horse for endurance means making a series of important decisions that will have consequences reaching well into the future. A horse subject to an ill-fitting saddle and/or poor riding balance will have reduced performance, immeasurable discomfort and eventually permanent damage.

Tips for

Beginners

By Penny Toft

I

34 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Sue Crockett

t’s very time consuming to train an endurance horse properly. At any one time the best that I can prepare and ride for the sport is two horses. There are no shortcuts. After many years of experience in this sport I thought it could be useful to share my list of do’s and don’ts. It’s important to note these are my ideas and may not suit everyone.

Life seems to be extremely busy these days.

Many people work five to six days a week and find it hard to juggle work commitments, family life and time to train their endurance horses.

During the summer months there is time in the morning and in the evening for training, however, winter is when most of our rides are held and the days become very short. Training can be restricted for many people to the weekends only.

Training does not have to be riding every day.

Do vary the work you give your horse. Of course, the amount and intensity of work depends on each individual horse, its age, its base fitness and the goals you are setting for it. Ideally I like to ride my horse every second day. Every other day is either treadmill and walking machine, alternatively dressage in the arena or lungeing on a large circle. When preparing for a bigger competition, work is five – seven days a week.

Do have dressage or general equitation lessons. This will be very good for you and your horse. The better we ride the better the horse will perform. Your horse will be easier to control and hopefully will learn to listen to your commands.

We never stop learning. We learn from our horses every day.

Do prepare your horse for their training.

Make sure they are sound. Always trot your mount up before setting out. Always pick out their feet and ensure shoes are on properly.

Overgrown feet can cause many problems, including tripping. Long toes can also place stress on tendons etc.

Don’t ride in the middle of the road, instead find a softer alternative.

Make sure the gear and saddlery fits properly and is clean to start with. Ensure your saddlecloth is sufficient for the job. A lot of walking and slow work is very hard on a horse’s back, the saddle needs to fit correctly. Add an equaliser or gel pad to absorb concussion.

In training, attach water bottles and accessories to get your horse use to the rattling and bouncing of extra appendages. So often at rides we see sponges, water bottles, helmet lights, splint boots, easy boots and such all over the trail. Practise carrying your camelback in training.

Do plan your training before setting out.

Decide where you will be riding, making sure the area is safe for you both. Plan the distance and the time you wish to complete this in. You should always ride with a companion. If you can’t, let somebody know where you are going and how long you will be. I use a GPS to ensure

I am actually doing the correct distance. It is easy to get a little lazy and cut short training sessions. You can download your training onto your computer and keep accurate records.

Do warm your horse up properly. Don’t get home from work, hop on and gallop around your training loop. This is sometimes the easy option for those who don’t have the time. This type of training makes sure that your horse at a ride is ready to do the same. Ideal for some, but not for most. We want our horses to be relaxed and looking forward to the task ahead, not bouncing around and wasting energy before we head out the gate.

Do use training aids such as martingales, draw reins, small crops etc.

Don’t use them unless you are experienced with setting them up and your horse is familiar with them at home. We aim to have our horses

Tarnia Kittel

Penny Toft and Don competing at the World Endurance Championships in Malaysia.

working in a round frame to ensure they build up their top line, creating muscles in the right places to help them carry us around, making their job easier. We cannot use crops in our rides, however, they can be a valuable training aid at home and can save accidents in certain sticky situations.

When lungeing do use side reins, chambon or the pessoa to encourage the horse to hold himself correctly, again to help build up his top line. Don’t use them unless you are proficient with them. I recommend you have somebody to help with the set up and use for at least two sessions.

In training, do warm up by walking for 15 minutes. Don’t start with a big hill to climb.

Don’t ride in the middle of the road. Do pick the softest part. We want our horses to have a long and sound career. Looking after their legs and hooves in training will certainly show in ride results for years to come. When you come across sections of rock, bitumen and hazards, slow up and proceed with caution. Too many riders travel too fast over these obstacles.

When you come to a steep downhill, dismount and walk alongside your horse. This will be good for you both. Give your mount a break and stretch your legs.

Make sure you don’t always canter. It is very easy to get into the habit of cantering. It’s usually the quickest way to get the job done.

Do teach your horse to walk and trot in a round frame. Change diagonals at the trot, this will help to balance your horse and to build up muscles symmetrically. It is very easy to rise on the most comfortable diagonal, however over time this will create problems. Do change canter leads often and teach your horse to do this without fuss.

Do teach your horse to eat and drink whilst training. Don’t let him snatch at grass and weeds whilst working.

Do reward the horse frequently. Use your voice to settle him and to encourage him in a gentle manner.

Don’t raise your voice unless necessary.

Always leave time to cool your mount down.

Come back to base steadily unless you are training faster on that occasion. If you come back in fast add additional time for cooling down after heart rates have been taken.

Learn your horse’s heart rates and recoveries.

Do take them at the end of your training session.

I like to keep a daily diary, which includes the distance trained, the time, the terrain, the intensity, heart rates and recoveries and any comments, eg. Girth rubs, attitude and any gait abnormalities.

Always trot your horse up after training.

After a hard session, I like to either poultice, ice or bandage legs. If using ice boots, only apply for 20 minutes. Always look for any new lumps and bumps, and treat if necessary.

Wash your horse with shampoo at least once a week. I like to wash the grey tails on every occasion possible.

Do oil your horse’s hooves at least twice a week.

Try to put the horse into a paddock after a hard workout. This will allow him to walk around, keeping circulation active. Locking a horse up after hard work can make his or her legs swell.

If your horse is in work, feed accordingly.

They will need extra feed once the intensity of work increases.

Make sure you are also fit for the job. There are two athletes here. So often we are focused on our horse. Take time out to walk or jog along side your horse in training. Extra fitness training may be called upon as well.

Attention to detail should be a priority and remember to always enjoy training your horse.

Penny Toft has been involved with horses her entire life and was raised in the horse show world, competing in pony, galloway, hack classes and pony harness. She has also judged at major shows. Starting endurance in 1996, Penny represented Australia on six occasions winning Team Bronze at Compiegne 2000 and Team Silver at Aachen 2006 and has placed in Tom Quiltys and placed highly and won at FEI 3, 2 and 1 star events.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 35

Gear to Go

Ariat® Tek Grip Gloves Designed to accommodate the demands of the sport, Ariat® gloves set a new standard in performance. They are constructed with synthetic suede with stretch twill upper, articulated fingers, reinforced stress points and velcro closure keeping hands warm and protected. Available from your local saddlery retailer.

P: 1800 427 428 (FREECALL) or W: www.justcountry.com.au

36 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Ariat® DuraTerrain H2O Designed for the endurance or trail rider, the Ariat® DuraTerrain H2O provides true athletic styling and all day comfort no matter where you ride.

Ariat® DuraTerrain H2O will help eat up the miles and get to the finish. Waterproof Pro™ keeps feet dry, ATS™ technology footbeds reduce fatigue and Duratread™ outsoles grip and flex; these are proven, tested endurance rider’s boots for the long haul. Classic terrain styling built extra-tough for rugged working conditions. Waterproof Pro™ construction with waterproof oiled full grain leather upper. Double-layer reinforced toe area with Tec-Tuff toe guard. Shock absorbing EVA midsole. Duratread™ outsole. Available from your local saddlery retailer.

P: 1800 427 428 (FREECALL) or W: www.justcountry.com.au

m e n

Matrix Endurance Saddlepad Matrix Saddle pads, made in the USA, are specifically designed for endurance riders. These pads offer the maximum amount of protection, support and breathability required for intense long distance riding. Choose a bottomlining of high wicking Woolback, or easy clean Coolback. Choose the Matrix insert which most suits your needs, the pad can be used with or without an insert. Pro Impact insert is fully breathable and absorbs 90% of the shock and kinetic energy from the saddle and horse, less fatiguing for you. Ortho Impact insert is therapeutic, blue side up towards you if you have a back injury, or blue side down towards the horse. Available from Dixon Smith Equestrian P: (02) 6684 0403 E: info@dixonsmith.com.au

Rider's Diary Rider’s Diary™ Binder is a horse log book to record riding lessons, training, health and competition results for dressage, jumping, horse trials, showing, combined training and more. Rider’s Diary™ has refill pages for endurance riders and the 20-page endurance refill packet is available to record competitions and training with details to record distance of ride, heart rate, rider and horse fitness, training and more. Rider’s Diary Binder RRP $29.95. Rider’s Diary Refill pages RRP $9.95. Available direct or via selected saddlery stores.

Contact: Claire Wilson P: (03) 5998 3998 or E: claire@ridersdiary.com.au

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Heritage Ultralite Gloves The Heritage Ultralite glove offers a lightweight and comfortable fit. Made with breathable mesh to conform to your natural hand shape while providing ventilation.

Features include patented rein-cut design, slipon style cuff, super grip synthetic leather palm, double stitched critical outward seams and a second layer of protection on the thumb. Sizes 6–10. RRP $44.95 a pair. Available from your local saddlery retailer.

W: www.saddlerytrading.com

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Taking the

HeartofRate a horse

Words by Caroline Fitzgerald

Cardiac Scientist

BHMS (Exc Physiology), DMU (Cardiac), ASAR.

Artwork by Karen Hodges

T

he equine heart has four chambers which are made of muscle tissue.

The right atrium receives blood from the veins of the body and the right ventricle then pumps the blood to the lungs for oxygenating. The left atrium receives the oxygenated blood back from the lungs and then the left ventricle pumps to the body. The average adult horses’ heart weighs 3.6kg and is more rounded than humans. The average resting heart rate (HR) is 28-45 and can increase to 250 beats per minute (bpm) at maximum exertion.

The heart is located in the anterior region of the chest cavity between the forelimbs, with the largest chamber closest to the girth area on the left or near side.

Taking the HR from the pulse With each heart beat, a volume of blood is pushed through the body’s arteries. The pulse may be felt when taken on an artery close to the skin, most commonly the facial artery located on the lower jaw just behind the cheek. The radial pulse may be taken right behind the back of the knee. The digital pulse is taken on the inside of the pastern, right below the fetlock. It is usually very faint and difficult to find. The pulse is usually counted over 60 seconds.

38 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Heart Sounds: Taking the HR with a stethoscope Valves are present between the atria and ventricles and between the ventricles and great arteries, to control the direction of blood flow.

The left atrio-ventricular valve is called the mitral valve and the right one is called the tricuspid valve. The valves associated with the great vessels are the aortic valve on the left (to aorta) and the pulmonary valve on the right (to pulmonary artery). There are two main heart sounds that can be heard using a stethoscope placed just behind the left elbow of the horse.

These sounds, “lub dub”, correspond with the closure of the valves. “Lub” is due to mitral and tricuspid valve closure, while “dub” corresponds to pulmonic and aortic valve closure. The cardiac cycle has two parts, diastole (filling of the ventricles and contraction of the atria) and systole (contraction of the ventricles). Thus we hear “lub” systole “dub” diastole, pause, for each normal heart beat.

As most endurance riders know, HR increases with exercise and also with anxiety, pain, and physiological compromise such as dehydration.

The HR should be relatively stable and regular at rest. Post exercise, the HR gradually decreases

depending on factors such as fitness. Normal variation in the beat-to-beat rate may be due to respiratory changes. But irregular or fluctuating HRs may not be normal and need veterinary evaluation. Ectopic, or extra, beats can be benign if only occasional, and should be counted in the 60 seconds for the final HR. Murmurs are sounds caused by turbulent blood flow, sometimes normal valvular flow such as the physiologic flow murmur in highly fit horses, but usually are associated with leaking valves. These may be assessed by the veterinarian or by ultrasound to determine the exact cause and significance. Heart disease is rare in horses, but if present includes cardiac arrhythmias and valvular insufficiencies. In fit horses, a common arrhythmia is second degree atrio-ventricular heart block, characterised by a “missed” beat, and usually resolves with an increased HR. If the HR is very irregular it may be atrial fibrillation and is associated with poor performance.

Heart Electrical System: Taking the HR with a HR monitor Cardiac muscular contraction is initiated by electrical impulses. The heart has an in-built pacemaker called the sino-atrial node, which is at the top of the heart and controls HR and

rhythm. For each heart beat the electrical impulses pass through various pathways in the heart to cause synchronised contraction of the atria and ventricular muscle fibres and thus effectively pumping the blood through the heart.

This electrical activity of the heart can be detected at the skin surface by electrodes and recorded (ECG or Electrocardiogram) throughout the cardiac cycle. The ECG depicts atrial contraction (P wave), ventricular contraction (QRS wave) and re-polarisation (T wave). Important information about the function of the heart can be obtained by assessing the ECG, such as the shape of the waves and distances between waves.

How heart rate monitors work Heart rate monitors work similarly to ECGs in that they detect and measure the electrical activity produced by the heart, that is, the electrical voltage of the QRS wave. The HR monitor band has two inbuilt electrodes and the time duration between these larger voltage waves is measured over a few cycles and then averaged. The band is attached to a handle bar which should be placed firmly against the skin above the near side girth area in a vertical position. The area should be wet or even have electrode gel applied. The monitor band also contains a transmitter which sends the information to a display, usually a special watch.

The display shows your horse’s heart rate. The transmitter and receiver are usually coded to ensure that signals are only between each unit and the watch is usually required to be within one metre of the transmitter. Heart rate monitors can be used to assess resting HRs, post exercise HRs and pre vetting HRs in the endurance setting, but can also be used to measure the HR during training and competition using electrodes attached under the girth and/or saddle. The

advantage of the HR monitor over the stethoscope is that time to get an initial HR is much quicker as you are not counting the full minute, and you can easily and quickly check that the HR is consistently dropping.

How to use a HR monitor: Tips n Clean the electrodes on the band strap n Read the instructions n Make sure the skin is very wet or use gel n Make sure the watch battery is not low (can be correctly replaced by Pursuit Performance) n Practise using the monitor at home, some horses find it uncomfortable at first n Know how your horse’s HRs change post exercise, especially in the extremes of heat and cold n Know how your horse’s HR changes with eating, excitement, anxiety, walking, urinating, whinnying n Know your HR cut-offs for the event you are participating in, eg. AERA training ride versus 80km first leg, second leg versus vet gate into hold (VGIH) and FEI. n Practise so that you know how low the HR needs to be so that you are “safe” to go to vetting in early vetting and VGIH situations. n Have a stethoscope ready as a backup just in case, or even a second monitor. n Label your HR monitor in permanent pen and also with bright coloured tape or the like to make it easily identifiable should you accidently part with it in a busy crewing area! n Always listen to the heart with a stethoscope at some point as well, in order to detect any irregularities.

Troubleshooting n Occasionally the watch monitor will read a high HR which is actually Oxygenated Blood Arteries (Red) Deoxygenated Blood Veins (Blue)

Neck Artery

double the correct HR. This is due to the band electrodes picking up the electrical voltages from both the large QRS wave and the T wave. The sensitivity of most ECG equipment and HR monitors is set for humans, thus counting the high T wave is a common finding. Turning the band around 180 degrees, and therefore swapping the electrode position, may change the voltages enough to correct this problem. Check with a stethoscope.

Often as the HR slows even further, it will display the correct HR. n The monitor can sometimes take longer than normal to display a HR. This is usually due to lack of moisture or poor electrode contact because the band is too low and the electrodes are not sitting flat on the horse.

In summary, the HR monitor is a very useful tool for speeding up the strapping process at an endurance ride. The HR is obtained by a different physiological process to using the stethoscope and the instantaneous HR is able to be measured, thereby allowing a better insight into how the horse is recovering from the endurance activity being asked of it.

Caroline Fitzgerald has been involved with endurance riding since 1991 and began breeding purebred Arabian horses in 1997 (Lanamere Arabians). She is a dedicated member of the endurance fraternity and is a ride organiser and enjoys helping newcomers to the sport. Caroline finds it inspirational campaigning the stud’s homebred horses with her husband, Paul, and two children.

1

13

9

Femoral Artery

Neck Vein

5

2

Aorta

10

7

Femoral Vein

3

11 6

8

12

Subclavian Artery Subclavian Vein Heart Diagram

4

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Superior Vena Cava Pulmonary Valve Tricuspid Valve Inferior Vena Cava Right Atrium Right Ventricle Left Atrium Left Ventricle Pulmonary Artery Pulmonary Vein Aortic Valve Mitral Valve Aorta

QRS Duration

Pulmonary Vein Pulmonary Artery

Left Ventricle (Heart) Right Ventricle (Heart)

Pedal Artery Pedal Vein

ECG Definitions

R P PR Interval

Horse Circulatory System

VenTRiculAR RepolARisATion

ATRiAl DepolARisATion VenTRiculAR DepolARisATion

Q

T

U

SQT Interval

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 39

Thermoregulation And Dehydration

In The Horse Words by Dr Joan Deetman BSc BVMS GDEd - FEI 2* Vet Photography by Sue Crockett

T

he horse’s average body temperature of 38°C may vary according to the ambient temperature, humidity and exercise.

A stable core body temperature must be maintained for the body’s organs, muscles, cells and nerves to function properly. If the body temperature rises above 41°C, oxygen supply to the tissues will be inadequate to maintain normal metabolic function resulting in tissue damage.

In order to maintain a stable core body

temperature, heat must be lost from the body during and after exercise. Heat loss occurs via: n Evaporation – most effective method, removing up to 2/3 of body heat. Horses rely primarily on evaporation of sweat to cool the body. High humidity will decrease the effectiveness of sweat cooling the body. n Conduction – heat transfer from the body to the skin (will allow heat to then be transferred to the environment). n Radiation and Convection (using air flow) allow heat loss from the skin to the environment. These methods need a temperature gradient and become ineffective when skin temperature equals the ambient temperature. n Respiration – horses do not pant like a dog however respiration rate will increase with exercise helping to remove heat from the body. If heat loss is ineffective, respiratory rate may increase to a level above heart rate (inversion).

Unlike humans, the sweat of the horse contains a higher concentration of electrolytes relative to the concentration of electrolytes in plasma. The horse produces massive amounts of sweat in exercise; this large loss of body water plus electrolytes must be replaced in order for the horse to recover effectively. If not, consequences may range from slow recovery to serious metabolic illness.

It therefore makes sense that effective recovery from exercise will only occur if oral rehydration fluids contain electrolytes with a composition similar to that of equine sweat. It

40 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Horses produce massive amounts of sweat when exercised.

must be stressed that these remedies must be fluids – water loss must be replaced in a dehydrated horse. Electrolyte pastes alone, without concurrent water replacement, may not achieve recovery and must not be given alone to a dehydrated horse.

In mammals, the thirst reflex is normally stimulated by changes in blood osmolality - the loss of sweat causes decreased blood volume and increased blood osmolality. A unique situation occurs in the horse where massive loss of sweat and electrolytes (especially sodium) decreases blood osmolality and inhibits the thirst reflex (adipsia).

Along with heat production and electrolyte loss, gut function can be affected with slowing of gut movement (ileus) causing a build-up of fluid and gas which further reduces the inclination to drink.

The end result is dehydration where water intake and reduced intestinal absorption cannot replace the fluid loss from sweat, urine, faeces and respiration.

A dehydrated horse in a hot, humid environment cannot rid itself of generated heat, leading to heat stroke. This condition may also occur where horses are transported in poorly ventilated floats, in obese horses, horses with long coats and where the horse fails to drink.

Don’t allow your horse to become dehydrated.

Riders should be very aware of their horse’s water intake and strive to achieve rehydration through the use of solutions spiked with electrolytes or once the horse has drunk sufficiently, then, and only then, use electrolyte pastes.

After any activity that causes dehydration eg. exercise, floating – fresh, clean water and water spiked with electrolyte solutions can be offered.

Offering a solution of water, electrolytes and a small amount of molasses immediately after unloading your horse from the float after a day of competition is a great way to replace your horse’s losses.

It is important to realise that the horse’s electrolyte requirements can differ depending on the activity undertaken. The electrolyte requirements of a racehorse will be different to the electrolyte requirements of an endurance horse. For example, an endurance horse after competition will, in most cases, be in a state of metabolic alkalosis. The endurance horse must not be treated with or supplemented with electrolytes containing bicarbonate.

Electrolyte supplementation should be part of the training horse’s diet as studies show horses will drink better if electrolyte supplementation is already occurring before exercise. Salt contains sodium and chloride and will therefore only supply part of the electrolytes required. There is a confusing array of electrolyte supplements available so riders should discuss their horse’s electrolyte needs with their vet.

Prevention and Control Diet, Water and Electrolytes n Know how much water your horse is drinking daily and during competition.

Normal water intake in a resting horse is between 20-40 L/day. Use water buckets that will allow measurement of water intake. n Know what electrolyte solutions are appropriate for your horse in your sport.

n Always offer clean water plus electrolyte spiked water. Use pastes only after the horse has drunk. Add salt and appropriate electrolytes to your horse’s diet. n Be observant of changes in water intake and urine output. n Take water with you to competitions – don’t assume your horse will drink any type of water. n Providing adequate roughage in the diet will allow the large colon to supply a reservoir of electrolyte rich fluid for absorption during exercise. Adequate roughage, water and electrolytes should be available and intake monitored.

Body Condition and Acclimatisation n Check for signs of dehydration – pinch the skin on the point of the shoulder (not the neck) to test skin recoil which should be immediate. Dry, tacky mucous membranes, slow capillary refill (blanch the gums), dark pink mucous membranes, sunken skin around eyes, depression, unwilling to eat and not drinking are all signs the horse is dehydrated. n Slowly acclimatise your horse to environmental conditions and high workloads. Fatigue will quickly overcome an unfit horse with a long coat ridden hard on a hot day.

Regular, steady work of increasing intensity will improve and adapt the musculoskeletal and cardiovascular systems.

Strapping n Take sponges, buckets, spray devices, etc to facilitate cooling your horse at a competition. n Endurance riders take drums with water pumps, hoses and spray nozzles to cool their horses at rides. Ice boots are used by event riders, use only on legs.

n Cool down properly after competition – get off the horse and loosen gear, walk it until respiration slows to near normal then start strapping procedures.

Riders will delay recovery by not dismounting, and not walking the horse out may only serve to increase body heat. n Strapping when the horse’s temperature is high should consist of copious amounts of water hosed or poured on, especially around the head, neck and legs. Look for the large superficial skin vessels which can be cooled directly and carry cooled blood into deeper tissue. Take care with the use of ice water on the body – we want to cool the horse but not cause constriction of blood vessels and actually prevent cooling. n Scraping off the water will allow the skin to cool and therefore allow more heat to be lost from the body. Very important in humid weather – warm water must not be allowed to sit on the horse’s skin. Walk the horse while the respiration and heart rate recover, strap again, scrape and walk as many times as necessary. Monitor heart and respiratory rates. n Spray mists of small volumes of water are a very effective way of cooling the horse, followed by scraping. Fanning the horse, allow it to rest and seeking shade will effectively contribute to cooling.

Remember the mechanisms of heat loss used by the horse – evaporative (sweating), radiant and convective (cool water, shade, cool air flow) and use them to allow quick and effective recovery for your horse.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 41

Strapping

A crew of people working to cool and care for a horse.

Your Horse Words by Melissa Longhurst Photography by Sue Crockett

S

trapping or crewing a horse during an endurance ride can be just as important as how the ride is ridden and can impact on your horse’s overall performance.

So what is strapping or crewing and what is best for you and your horse?

Strapping of the endurance horse is the technique used by the majority of Australian endurance riders to describe the style of care at rides that use the standard half hour vetting rules. This broadly covers most AERA rides, whereby generally, one person straps the endurance horse during the hold period, and prior to heading out on course again.

42 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Crewing is the term more often used for VGIH (Vet-Gate-Into-Hold) events, for example FEI rides and the Tom Quilty are both run under VGIH. For these events it’s not uncommon to find a number of people or a crew of people working to cool and care for one horse during these events. The riding time continues to accumulate after the rider crosses the line (start of the crewing stage) and until the horse is presented to the Vet Gate, thus placing greater urgency on the heart rate recovery for a speedier present time. Each member of this crewing team will have a particular task, so many things are happening simultaneously, much like a pitcrew for a racecar team.

Standard AERA Veterinary Check: As each rider arrives to base off course, their riding stops or suspends, the arrival time is recorded and each rider is given a time slip that has their Vet Time and Out Time on it.

Riders have up to 30 minutes to present their horses to the veterinary check after being strapped and cooled. Once successfully vetted, horse and rider rest until saddling again, ready to go out on the next leg – which is one hour from the arrival to base.

The Vet Gate Into Hold (VGIH) check is generally used in longer events, and for FEI events, and is very favourable for the fitter equine athlete. Riders arrive to base off course and are given a slip with arrival

time, however, their ride time continues to tick over while they crew their horse and prepare him for the vet. When the heart rate meets, or is lower than the required amount (generally 64 beats per minute), they then present to the Vet Gate whereby the riding time then stops, or suspends. After passing the vet inspection, a mandatory Hold Time (rest period) usually between 20 to 40 minutes (time announced at pre-ride brief) begins. If when presenting to the vet the heart rate is above the set parameter, competitors can re-present their horses at ten-minute intervals until 30 minutes elapses, when they will be eliminated if the heart rate is not met.

In both systems riders may elect to stay at base longer but their ride time restarts whether they are on course or not.

Cool/cold weather strapping: Dependent on how cool it is, immediately place a rug or towel over the horse’s hindquarter to keep the larger muscles warm. Unsaddle your horse, change the bridle for a halter and lead and offer some warmed water if available, plain or with a little molasses added is fine. Now is a good time to take the horse’s heart rate to see where it’s at.

If the heart rate is already low or under the

required parameter, then there may not be a lot of strapping work or water required. If so, using a damp sponge (clean the sponge regularly throughout procedure) wipe the saddle and girth area and under the belly to remove any grime and caked sweat, then clean the legs paying particular attention to in between the hind legs, then finish with a wipe of the face/neck and any other areas where tack may have been. Avoid putting too much, if any, water over the hindquarter as some horses can be prone to stiffening up in this area. Monitor your horse’s skin temperature by touch to judge how he is cooling, if he is cooling quickly he may need a full rug or heavier rug, or if retaining heat may need to be less covered up. Offer some dampened hay or carrots and allow picking at grass while walking quietly before checking the heart rate again. If the heart rate is still under, then it’s a good time to vet – presenting to vetting sooner rather than later while the muscles are still warm will give a cleaner trot out and potentially avoid developing any hind-end lameness due to stiffness.

Once vetted the horse may need to be rugged to avoid cooling too much, again monitor skin temperature by touch and have

a look around camp to see what others are doing with their horses.

Warm/hot weather strapping: Unsaddle your horse, change the bridle for a halter and lead and offer some warmed water for the horse to drink if available, plain or with a little molasses added is fine. Checking the horse’s heart rate using either the heart rate monitor or a stethoscope will give you an idea of how much cooling you may need to do. If very hot or higher heart rate, start by cooling the larger parts of the body, being the neck and shoulders and trunk of the horse using copious amounts of water.

This can be done via bucket and sponge (feed dippers are terrific for using to pour water over horses), or if you have access to a hose, apply water evenly to these areas, then moving onto the insides of the hind legs and under the belly where the large veins are. If the horse retains heat or if it’s very hot, the use of a towel dipped into ice water then wrung out and placed over the neck will also assist in cooling. When these towels start to become warm, take it off and exchange for another. Scrape off water quickly as leaving water on a hot horse can heat up and will act as an insulator to retain heat. Scraping off the excess allows the air

Strapping equipment needs to be ready for your arrival at base.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 43

Cooling a horse down while taking heart rate.

Once vetted the horse may need to be rugged.

44 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

A towel dipped in ice water and wrung out and placed over the neck will assist in cooling the horse.

to reach the coat and cooling process to begin. Wipe the horse’s face and any areas that tack may have been or that have sweat or grime. Place a towel over the hindquarter to keep the large muscles warm and avoid putting too much water over them. Walk your horse slowly for a minute or two, allowing him to eat some grass, encouraging urination and washing again if necessary.

Once the horse’s core body temperature drops to less than 39 degrees, his heart rate will also begin to lower to an acceptable recovery level, and his respirations or panting will slow.

Wash and walk technique: Horses ridden hard for example, in an anaerobic state produce lactic acid as a waste product in their muscles, a process that continues even once the horse has stopped exercising.

Once the horse is moving minimally or standing, the acid will start to build up within the muscles. When the horse moves again, the muscles will push the lactic acid into the blood that in turn can cause the heart rate to increase. A great example is a horse whose heart rate recovery

indication was good while in camp but soon elevates on the walk to the vetting ring as the circulating lactic acid increases the recordable heart rate and creates a surprise for the rider! Here it is important to use the ‘wash and walk’ technique of strapping your horse. Wash the horse down with adequate water, scrape excess off and then walk slowly for several minutes before repeating.

Offer handfuls of dampened hay, or some carrots plus access to more water while in the walk phase of this period. This can be repeated three or four times prior to vetting.

Prior to heading to vetting it is important to dry your horse. Using a towel, briskly wipe your horse all over to further remove excess water from his coat as leaving water can cause the horse to heat up again and subsequently raise the heart rate. Pay particular attention to drying behind the elbows and girth area, legs, and pasterns and heels to prevent chaffing and greasy heel developing. Always check your horse’s feet prior to entering the vet ring for any rocks or loose shoes if shod.

Urinating: For most horses this actually reduces the heart rate by one or two beats

as urinating reduces stored heat and can help reduce any anxiety the horse may be feeling. Some people like to walk their horse through long grass to encourage them to urinate, while others find whistling brings the same result. For most horses it can be as simple as allowing them a few minutes of privacy and free time in their own yard. Keep an eye on the colour of the urine: a clear colour like tap water is the most desirable; a yellow colour suggests your horse is starting to show signs of initial dehydration, while the darker yellow indicates severe dehydration. Further, any red or brown colour is indicative of potential muscle and other damage occurring. Here it is wise to consult the vet as soon as possible.

Eating: Allowing a horse to eat in the hold time prior to vetting is a personal choice and should come down to what, if any, affect this has on each individual horse.

For most horses eating can raise the heart rate by a few beats or more, particularly for the more aggressive eater or hungry horse.

However it is better to allow them to pick at some dampened hay or wet grass, or a

Keep an eye on the colour of your horse’s urine.

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Prior to vetting dry your horse with a towel to remove excess water. dampened feed of chaff and other fibres than to be concerned about a few extra beats, especially with a novice horse, as eating helps to relax the horse and stimulate gut sounds. As a rule of thumb most riders will avoid any grain feeds and restrain from giving electrolytes until after vetting. A horse who displays a borderline heart rate may have been ridden beyond his ability or have other underlying issues.

Melissa Longhurst has been involved in endurance for 20 years competing both nationally and internationally and holds four Tom Quilty buckles. In recent years she has enjoyed the competitive, longer distance events plus completing all three challenging marathons, the Far-A-Way 320km, Shahzada 400km and Pioneer Trek 408km with her homebred horses. Melissa and her husband, Steve, operate a small farm breeding, raising and training Arabians for endurance, as well as training endurance horses for a few select clients. Melissa is committed to the sport as a volunteer and mentor for new riders.

46 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Regardless of whether you are strapping for yourself, or have a dedicated strapper or crew team on hand, the gear required as soon as you arrive at base off track includes: n Plastic Buckets for strapping and drinking water n Plenty of water n Molasses n Sponges, hoof picks, towels n Stethoscope and stopwatch or heart rate monitor n Carrots and hay n Electrolytes and drinking water for human and horse n For colder rides: thermos of hot water or access to hot water to add to horse drinking water on arrival n Waterproof rug, warm rug n Sunscreen, hat and coat for rider n Vaseline, white healer, curash or baby powder n Brush boots, brush and comb n Ice for water (optional) n Vaseline: use on the horse’s heels/pasterns to assist in prevention of greasy heel n White healer: can apply to wounds and cuts, also great to treat initial stages of greasy heel n Curash or baby powder: apply to girth covers and saddle pads to prevent chaffing on longer rides n Swell down: an application to horse’s legs post ride may assist with swelling n Medicated ointment: apply to minor cuts or abrasions after vetting

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 47

Matt Bennet

1

Australia’s

Wild Horses

By Jen Clingly

A Model for our barefoot endurance horses Barefoot endurance horses have a model – the hooves of Australian Outback feral horses. These horses in the desert regions of the Northern Territory are living examples that cement beliefs in barefoot endurance principles and practices.

Without a proven living model to emulate or work toward, what do we have? A hoof guideline based on mathematical measurements, a scientific paper, or something more profound?

Brumbies are recognised as a tough, sound, healthy species. Often travelling up to 50kms a day, living on a sparse high fibre diet, the toughness and durability of these desert hooves are the reason why they are the preferable model for barefoot endurance horses.

Renowned as romantic icons of the Australian bush, thanks to Banjo Patterson’s Man from Snowy River, our brumbies are in fact a feral species. Australia’s wild horse population is

48 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

estimated at a whopping one million and they provide the greatest study opportunity because we have the largest population of wild horses in the world, occupying the broadest range of habitats.

There is no physiological or genetic difference between the hooves of wild or domestic horses.

Both belong to the same species. Under a microscope, the hooves show very little difference between them and there hasn’t been enough time in an evolutionary sense for genetic changes to take place.

These hooves can withstand locomotion on hard substrates because of their robust quality and biomechanical function, allows the horse to withstand significant hoof pathology without showing overt lameness and enables the horse to survive in extreme environments.

How do these wild horses have tough, durable hooves that require no human intervention?

Recent PHD study by Brian Anthony Hampson of the Australian Brumby Research Unit at the

University of Queensland proves the environment dictates the hoof – the hoof shape, condition, health and growth. Keys to this lie in the substrate and the distance the brumbies travel. Distance is determined between water opportunities and food sources in their habitat.

Why do wild horses do so well in Australia?

They are adaptable and hardy, especially to the sparsely distributed and at times unpredictable grazing opportunities. Brumbies can move up to 50km a day. Home ranges span about 70km.

They have few predators or diseases. Horses are prey animals, animals of flight. They are highly adapted for fast, free movement. Due to natural selection they have good conformation and a strong culture of survival.

A brumby’s vision, hearing, sense of smell, even silence ensures his or her senses are at the highest level of astuteness. Teeth and digestive system are designed to utilise the barren food

M. Richardson

2

J. Clingly

J. Clingly

3

5

4 1

Jen Clingly and her barefoot horse, Imaj Zamir.

2

Brumbies show their innate tracking instinct.

Walking is by far their preferred speed of travel.

3/4 This hind hoof of a brumby is the epitome of what we seek in our endurance horses – tough and able to withstand any terrain.

Note the hairline at the coronary band has been removed by abrasive Spinifex grasses in the environment.

J. Clingly

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5

Imaj Zamir’s hoof post Tom Quilty.

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Salt bush is a favourite staple in the desert brumby diet. Note the natural feeding position.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 49

Jacky Ynema

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8 9

7

Brumbies drink, on average, once a day in summer and every second day in winter. They drink deeply for what seems a very long time. Hampson’s research with tracking collars has recorded young colts doing it tough and going 4–5 days without water.

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An x-ray of Marg Richardson’s mare, Bold Belle, six days after an 80km event.

9

A brumby highway photographed by Marg Richardson – well-defined tracks padded deep by thousands of hooves. Brumbies travel single file from grazing lands to waterholes.

sources. Mortality is usually due to drought.

Drought is the number one killer of wild horses in Australia and 75% of the population can be eradicated in a hard year. However, in saying that, in good seasons and conditions mares breed two foals every three years. The population will double every four years if there is no drought. Their tough survival culture produces the right conditions for natural selection and traits that promote soundness and strength.

Why do wild horses provide such a good model for barefoot endurance horses?

Endurance is a particularly appropriate sport to draw parallels to wild horses. n They travel long distances in a fairly unimpeded manner. n They move efficiently at a loose trot or walk. n They cover distances in training and competition similar to brumbies. n They are exposed to all sorts of terrain in training and competition. n The conditions endurance horses are kept closely mimic those found in nature. For example, most live a herd life in a

50 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

paddock with room to move and play.

They are not stabled or confined. n Their diets consist predominantly of roughage. n Both have tough mental attitudes and a strong work ethic. n They are good eaters and drinkers. n Only the best hoof form, conformation, symmetry and balance endure the long distance test.

The fate of a successful barefoot endurance horse lies in a whole horse approach. Hoof care and trimming is only a small part of a healthy, sound, barefoot horse. However, the horse’s diet, its living environment and lifestyle, the exercise and movement the horse receives, the training terrain and the use of hoof boots when necessary complete the big picture and will provide the keys to success. The most meticulously trimmed hoof in the world will fail, for example, if the diet is wrong.

In the wild the natural hoof is the outcome of a successful adaptation between the horse and its environment. If this weren’t the case, the hooves would be a mess and the horse would

perish from lameness, thirst, starvation or predators.

Successes in barefoot endurance have been proven time and time again all over the world.

Garrett Ford, President and inventor of EasyCare Hoof Boots won the Haggin Cup in 2010 with his Arabian gelding, Fury. Garrett marked the occasion as “momentous in barefoot endurance racing.” Twenty barefoot horses competed in the world’s most difficult and demanding equine competition, the Tevis Cup, and a barefoot horse won the most prestigious award. Karen Chaten and her barefoot horse, Granite Chief, achieved the 10,000-mileage award for endurance competition in the USA last year.

“Keeping my horses barefoot has been a lot of work. The success and healthy condition of my horses have proven to me unequivocally, that it has been more than worth it.”

Tasmanian endurance rider Jen Clingly and her barefoot horse, Imaj Zamir, have clocked up close to 4,000kms, including 160km rides without shoes. Jen highlights that she keeps the wild horse in the back of her mind every time she is thinking and teaching hoof care. “To

achieve rock crunching hooves, willing and able to handle any terrain for long distance rides, you have to condition the horses and gradually build tough, hardened soles. Hooves have to be worked through exercise. All terrain hooves are not just about the trim. It is achieved by aligning Zamir’s lifestyle as much as practical to the natural parameters that horses evolved in. Zamir grows a new hoof capsule every four to five months. Considering the average growth is 10mm a month, this is fast.

Consistent training promotes growth and wear.

His x-rays measure a sole depth of 16mm, evidence of good hoof protection.”

Hampson’s recent study and dissections of the brumby hooves indicate that sole depth responds to both distance travelled and substrate hardness. The sole depth of desert brumbies averages 15–18mm. Part of Hampson’s thesis on the effects of environment on the feral horse foot included a Brumby Study Swap. A brumby christened Christina was taken from the gulf of north Queensland in soft environment to outback Northern Territory. Within a three-month period she grew a whole new hoof capsule due to the extreme hard substrate and required movement for food and water.

Endurance rider Marg Richardson, along with her pocket rocket barefoot mare, Bold Belle, is meticulous with her horse’s hooves. Regarding

her x-rays following an 80km event, Marg says, “I was interested to see how much sole there was after 80kms barefoot. I was amazed that whilst her dorsal wall measured 7.5cm, she had 15mm of sole thickness at the distal tip of P3.”

Lessons to learn from our wild horses The social organisation of the brumby is an impressive reflection of its determination to survive. The brumby herd is usually a small band of four to eight horses comprising the stallion and his small harem of mares and young offspring. There are bachelor mobs of young colts. All colt bands seem to be bewildered and lack direction. No leader! It is rare to witness a mare on her own. They seem to be taken off by a stallion very quickly. Unusual bands exist.

Older stallions may often be travelling solo. In the herd, every horse appears to have an accepted place in the herd hierarchy. Their patterns of movement are governed by what seems a cycle of nature. Herds move within their territory, move like clockwork into a waterhole to drink and move on as the next mob of horses move their way in. They avoid confrontation. A fleeting glance from a stallion across a distance will hold another herd back. Herds generally maintain a regulated spacing as they move.

The greatest learning opportunity for all of us is to think about the relevance these wild horses have to our domestic equines.

DIXON SMITH EQUESTRIAN ph / fax: 02 6684 0403

As soon as a wild horse is brought into captivity its health advantages are quickly lost.

They are subject to problems in domestication like hoof pathologies, mental health issues etc.

Little research has been done on the wild horse’s natural environment. When a zoo takes an animal out of the wild they set up a habitat and diet that closely resembles its natural world.

Not many horse owners know what a natural environment for their horse is. We should be in awe of our Australian outback brumbies, their naturally shaped hooves that are capable of withstanding the toughest terrain, the food they source and survive on, the harsh environment they inhabit and their constant movement.

Horse enthusiasts should never turn up the opportunity to study wild horses. The knowledge wild horses provide is the Holy Grail to horse keeping, hoof care and horsemanship.

Jen Clingly and Jeremy Ford of Tasmania have spent considerable time filming and researching Australian brumbies. The culture of their business, Wild About Hooves, is based on these exceptional, sound, healthy wild horses. It is the inspiration and foundation for their hoof care and education.

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 51

Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome

By Dr Monika Baffy

G

astric ulcer disease has been recognised in foals and adult horses, with a high prevalence among horses used for competitive performance and characterised as a multietiologic disease.

Studies indicated that ulcers can occur: n 30 – 40% in pleasure horses n 60 – 70% in performance horses and close to 100% in racehorses n 60 – 70% in Arabian / endurance horses n Foals are also at risk, particularly in the first few months of life Gastric ulcer disease is a complex disease and lesions (erosions and ulcerations) occurring in the lower part of the esophagus (close to stomach entry), stomach and proximal duodenum of horses (see Figure 1).

The stomach is mono-gastric, a curved, muscular sac-like structure. Most ulcers appear predominate in the squamous mucosa adjacent to the Margo Plicatus.

Reasons for Stomach Ulcers The grazing horse will eat on a rather continuous basis, which means it never has an empty stomach, nor completely filled. The fill line comes just even with the oesophageal entry. Saliva acts as a natural buffer to the acidic environment of the equine stomach.

These days many horses are fed infrequently with large amounts of high quality carbohydrate foods, the stomach rapidly empties and the stomach has nothing to do and while horses secrete gastric acid continuously the pH can drop as low as two.

Stomach ulceration is considered to result from an imbalance of gastric acid factors and protective factors.

Stomach ulcers are caused by many factors including: n Anatomy of the stomach n Restricted feed intake, diet, intermittent feeding n Environmental stress n Transport n Competition n Strenuous exercise n Stall confinement

52 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Dr. Med. Vet, Freestone Equestrian Vet Farm, Freestone QLD

a

1 2 3

5 b

4

Figure 1: Equine Stomach Diagram

1 2 3 4/5 a b

Pars nonglandularis of stomach (area for stomach ulcers) Margo Plicatus Mixed glandular zone Pars glandularis of stomach Esophagus (stomach entry) Pars cranialis duodeni (first part of small intestine)

n Use of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory treatments eg. Bute paste n Illness Take Home Message Exercise causes an increase of intra-gastric pressure with displacement of acid stomach contents into the non-glandular part, a prolonged exposure of gastric contents, of the stomach. This inherits the risk of lowering the pH and increasing the risk of developing stomach ulcers.

Clinical Signs / Diagnosis There are many behavioural patterns that could indicate a stomach ulcer, also depending from the severity of the problem. However, gastroscopy is the only definitive method to diagnose equine gastric ulcer.

Clinical symptoms can be: n Reluctance to train / decreased performance

Attitude changes / grumpy Poor appetite, failure to finish Poor body condition / rough hair-coat Low-grade, recurring colic Intermittent abdominal pain Chronic diarrhoea Debilitated / neglected horses In combination: teeth grinding, flehmen response, yawning observed more often without stimulus n Horse unhappy while saddling, tightening girth Gastroscopy Equine gastric ulcer syndrome can be sometimes hard to diagnose, symptoms can be weak, hardly noticeable and it is only guess work. The only accurate way to diagnose gastric disease is via inserting a three-metre video-endoscope into n n n n n n n n

Treatment The mainstay of treating Equine Gastric Ulcer Syndrome (EGUS) is the focus on blocking gastric acid secretion and raising stomach pH over 4. Ask your vet for the best treatment option for your horse.

Other than modification with feeding schedules, the following approved drugs for treatment and prevention of recurrence of gastric ulcers are: n Controlling intra-gastric pH has proven significant healing of ulcers given orally.

OMEPRAZOLE (UlcerGard, Gastrozol) : 1-4 mg/kg PO q 24 hrs RANITIDINE (Ulcerguard, Ulcer Relief) : 6.6 mg/kg PO q 8 hrs Authors Note: very efficient and easy to use, a must for every competing horse, given at least in preparation before an equestrian event, to prevent gastric ulcers and have a happier and better competitor. n Mucosal protectants: they aid in healing by adhering to the ulcerated surface and stimulating epidermal growth factor.

SUCRULFATE (Carafate): 20 - 40 mg/kg PO q 6-8 hrs, they appear to augment mucosal protective mechanisms. n Prostaglandin Analogues MISOPROSTOL: 2.5 μg/kg PO q 12-24 hrs, they act by inhibiting gastric acid secretion, enhancing mucosal protection, but has some negative side effects including diarrhoea and abdominal cramping.

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4 Tom Quilty buckles FEI*** Rated Progeny excelling in the showring, endurance and eventing.

Sharon Meyers

the stomach. With this diagnostic technique the location and severity of the ulcer is diagnosed and progress of treatment can be monitored.

Please contact your veterinarian if you are concerned that your horse may have ulcers and an appointment with your nearest equine diagnostic clinic can be arranged.

Prevention of Gastric Ulcers in Horses Feeding management and type of food plays a major role in inducing or preventing gastric ulcers in horses. By nature the horse is a grazing animal, spending much of the day eating grass / roughage. With doing so the grazing horse produces a constant flow of saliva and passage of grass into the stomach and buffering stomach acid. Horses secrete gastric acid continuously.

The key to help prevent equine gastric ulcer syndrome in horses is to reduce gastric acidity.

Several research studies have demonstrated the importance of roughages for maintaining normal pH balance in the stomach – the diet should be at least 75% roughage. Continuous access to grass pasture is beneficial. Frequent feeding of hay (four – six times a day) is a suitable substitute. Those feeding strategies promote consistent stomach emptying and effective neutralising acid, and protection of the upper reaches of the stomach.

Regular worming strategies with parasiticides acting against parasites associated with the stomach, like stomach bots, are also important.

Foals are also at risk of developing ulcers.

Prognosis The prognosis of horses being treated orally with OMEPRAZOLE is effective and maintenance therapy with 2 mg kg PO once a day prevents gastric ulcer recurrence.

The author may be contacted via email at baffy_vet@hotmail.com

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 53

Sue Crockett

Brook Sample riding Brookleigh Quasar.

Training an Endurance Horse

By Brook Sample

I

have been competing in endurance riding since I was four years old. Many things have changed in the sport over the past 35 years and as the sport has grown, I have adjusted some of the things I do in training my horses. On a whole, the fundamentals are still the same.

First, let’s discuss the novice endurance horse.

When I first started, there was no such thing as a novice horse that had to be qualified. I am really pleased there is now. Horses take a long time to develop, particularly the taller ones. The trend today seems to be the bigger the better, and they need time to get control of those long limbs.

54 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

I have been breeding endurance horses for the past 20 years. I raise my horses on hilly pastures with added supplements that the soil may not provide. They are wormed and trimmed regularly but other than that, they are left to be horses until they are four and half years old. This allows me to observe them in a herd and for them to develop their own personalities before we “humanise� them. It also gives them the opportunity to master the control of their body before we introduce weight and control of them.

The result is a strong, sure-footed, confident horse with a really good awareness of how to handle itself over all sorts of terrain.

If this type of start is not possible for you or the horse you have purchased, long slow work is a good alternative. For example, if you have a small property that is flat and you are raising your future endurance horse, it would be a good idea to start your horse under saddle at four and do a year of long, slow work to allow him or her time to strengthen their body and gain control.

Also, I find horses that are on hard feed from an early age will have a large growth spurt and gain most of their height from the age of one to five, however, if you have a horse that has been raised on pasture only, they will grow in height once they are introduced to hard feed and

continue to grow through to eight years of age.

This is something to consider when selecting your next horse.

So, how do we get this well prepared novice endurance horse to their first competition? We can break this down into four areas: feeding, shoeing, training and general care. Let’s look at feeding first. The best advice I can give on feeding is that it is something that needs to be looked at daily and individually to each horse.

For this reason, it would be impossible for me to say feed the novice horse x, y and z and you will complete rides. What I can tell you is that I feed my horses lots of roughage, ie. hay, and oaten and lucerne chaffs and regulate their grain depending on their workload. I also take into consideration the type of paddock they are grazing in, noting the type of grass they are eating, whether it has gone to seed, and being aware of any deficiencies in minerals due to soil content. If you know your paddock is lacking in a certain mineral, you will then need to add a supplement to your feeds. Be careful not to get too carried away here. There are plenty of items out there suggesting your horse needs them to exist, they don’t. You can easily overload your horse with too many supplements where its body is spending more time working out how to get it through their body than actually benefitting it. I

try to keep things simple, especially for the novice horse just starting its journey into long distance training. The novice horse should not be taken to its limits at this age and therefore should not need extra supplements to aid in this process. I like to use Kohnke’s Own Marathon Endurance Mix and added calcium due to the coastal pastures my horses graze on.

Shoeing, I cannot stress enough how important this is. Without good feet, your horse will go nowhere. Personally, I shoe my horses. I know there are many people who love barefoot riding and that is great. I think whatever you choose, make sure you have someone that is experienced in what they are doing and make your horse’s feet a priority. That does not mean when the shoes are paper thin it is time to call the farrier. I shoe my endurance horses every four to five weeks. I make sure I spend time with my farrier and talk to him about what the horses are doing out on track. We look together at how the horse is wearing its shoes and then discuss how it is travelling. I also recommend when you do go to a competition that you take a spare set – maybe one that was just taken off. It could save you a lot of grief if you get back to camp with a missing shoe.

On to the fun stuff – training. Novice endurance horses are required to go at a

Sharon Meyers

Sue Crockett Make sure you communicate with your farrier about your horse’s feet.

restricted pace for three completed 80km rides, ideally over 90 days. This is great. It really allows the young horse to do long, slow work that will not overstress legs or organs, and give you an excellent foundation for a long endurance career. The training required is similar – long, slow work. I live in a hilly area and I love it. I can walk my horses up hills and get their heart rate up without stressing their legs.

In preparation for an 80km novice endurance ride, I like to take my novice horses out three times a week for six to eight weeks before the competition. Ideally, the horse will be ridden for two rides that are two to two and a half hours made up primarily of walking and trotting and the occasional canter. On Saturday or Sunday I will take the horse out for four to six hours depending on how the horse is progressing.

Again, this ride should be a steady ride. I have heard complaints over the years that novice rides ruin a horse’s desire to be competitive and a horse needs to understand from the go how to move along. I disagree. A horse needs to respect the rider on the ground and in the saddle. If your horse respects you enough to do what is asked at a walk, or when you are doing something with it on the ground, it will respect you enough to move along at whatever pace when you ask it. A horse can just as easily refuse

Walking horses up hills will get their heart rate up without stressing their legs.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 55

1

1

It’s important a horse trots up freely for vetting purposes.

2

Your horse should stand quietly for TPR stewards and vets.

3

Give your horse a good hose off at the end of a ride.

56 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Sue Crockett

Sue Crockett

2

3

to walk up a hill as it can canter up a hill. All that matters is he does the job he is asked to do.

When you are training your novice horse, do not forget to get it ready for the vet check. There are three main things you should make a priority before your first competition: trotting up, pulse and temperature. The way you trot up a horse can make the difference between a pass or a fail from the vet. Running out in front of your horse can give it the “drag effect�. Your horse will stick its head out, looking as if it has no energy and that you are dragging it around the cones.

Similarly, standing too far behind the horse and pushing it along can make it look frightened and run sideways, not giving the horse the best chance of showing off a nice, even gait.

I trot my horse up before every training run at home. This not only allows me to check their soundness before I hop on, it makes trotting up a routine event and therefore is just part of what the horse does, even at his or her first event!

They are comfortable and confident in what they are doing, giving them the best chance at a pass. Temperature; most rides now require a horse health declaration form that requires three days of morning and evening temperatures recorded. This is fantastic, that is a minimum of six times your horse will have had his or her temperature taken, so no one should have any reason to bring a horse to the ride that is not comfortable with this procedure. If your horse is giving you trouble at home, make sure you take

the time to sort it out, as a vet has the right to not let you start if the temperature cannot be recorded.

Last but not least is the pulse. Some horses find this procedure very irritating. They can twitch their skin, dance around or even turn around to bite. Not only do the volunteer TPRs find this challenging but your horse’s pulse will inevitably be higher if he or she is irritated. This can be remedied by again doing your homework and after your ride at home, put a stethoscope on your horse. The more you use the stethoscope, the happier the horse will be in the vet area.

The last area to look at is general care. I check my horse’s legs and body over every day.

It is really important to get familiar with what is normal for your horse. That way when something new comes up – and it will – you know exactly when it happened and can start treatment immediately. For example, I feel my horse’s legs for any signs of heat, swelling or splints developing. If there is one thing you should have in your stable it is ice boots, or some form of icing you are comfortable with. If you rest and ice an injury in the first 48 hours, there is a great chance you can avoid damage altogether or at least minimise the damage. I like to ice the leg as many times as possible in the first 48 hours for 40 minutes at a time. Most of

the time I will feel an abnormality in the legs before the horse shows any signs of lameness.

By finding an abnormality in the early stages, my horse is more likely to miss a week of training rather than months of training.

The other ‘must have’ in the medicine cabinet is Epsom salts. If there is a mild cut on the leg that looks like nothing, and the next day it has turned into an ugly swelling that has you running for the vet and penicillin, try a hot Epsom salt soak first, you will be amazed with the result.

Get a clean cloth and bucket and make the water as warm as you can handle on your hand. Add at least a cup of Epsom salts into the water and swirl it around until it dissolves. Then dunk the cloth in the water and apply to the wound – be careful not to surprise your horse with the temperature of the water on the wound.

It may sting at first, so expect a bit of disagreeing to start off with. As soon as the cloth cools, dip it in the water and reapply until you have gone through all the water or 20 minutes has gone by. After, wait for the wound to dry and then apply your favourite wound ointment. I like honey or Tuff Rock poultice.

Keeping your horse and gear clean is extremely important for the endurance horse.

This may sound elementary, but it is often forgotten. Then rubs get blamed on ill-fitting

gear, which can happen, however there is good chance the horse is not getting brushed well enough or the gear is simply not clean. The other benefit of getting in there and really giving your horse a good brush is it serves as a massage for your horse. Grooming provides yet another opportunity for you to find any spots that may be causing your horse pain. At the end of your ride, give your horse a really good hose off. Doing a quick rinse and leaving sweat and dirt can create sweat lumps in the saddle area and possible hair loss, particularly in the lower legs. I do not shampoo my horses unless they are impossibly dirty, or going to an event in which I want them to look particularly sparkly. Each time you shampoo your horse it strips away their natural oils that provide a defence against nature’s forces such as weather and bugs.

Brook Sample has won the Tom Quilty 160km five times. He has represented Australia four times internationally and has won the Shahzada and the Far-a-Way marathon, the FEI Australian Championships and countless state championships, 80km and 120km rides.

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My beautiful 5yr old 17.2hh Warmblood gelding (Ray) had a complete Mid level My of beautiful 5yr old 17.2hh blade) Warmblood (Ray) had a complete level break his scapula (shoulder duringgelding June 2011 in a freak paddock Mid accident. break of hisnot scapula (shoulder blade) during June 2011 in ahis freak Surgery was an option so we elected to try and save life paddock resultingaccident. in many Surgery was not an first option we elected to try and life problems resulting inwas many highs and lows in the fewsomonths.

7 months latersave one his of the so highs and lows in the few months.

7 months later sheath one of the so much weight bearing on first the good leg meant the tendon andproblems sesamoidwas areas much weight bearing on the good leg meant the tendon sheath and sesamoid areas were quite large and very sore to touch, despite bandaging for added support ... the quite large and veryofsore to touch, despite His bandaging addedhad support ... the legwere was in desperate need being unbandaged. broken for shoulder healed by was in we desperate need unbandaged.and His muscle broken shoulder thisleg time but were left withofa being large haematoma damage.had healed by this time but we were left with a large haematoma and muscle damage.

Ray was not getting better, in fact he was getting worse. My vet had casually Ray was TuffRock not gettingsobetter, fact he was getting worse. people My vet had casuallya mentioned I did insome research and several suggested mentioned TuffRock so I did some research and several people suggested a combination of Poultice, Equine Joint Formulae (EJF) & Conditioner Plus (C+). combination of Poultice, Equine Joint Formulae (EJF) & Conditioner Plus (C+).

The Poultice has been a blessing enabling tendon support yet still allowing the leg The Poultice has been a blessing enabling tendon support yet still allowing the leg to breathe plus a full range of motion. Load bearing was no longer an issue and it was to breathe plus a full range of motion. Load bearing was no longer an issue and it was especially good in in the summer the especially good the summermonths, months,no noheating heatingofofthe the leg, leg, and and simply simply slap slap the poultice onon any sores.

It Itreally poultice any sores. reallyhelped helpedkeep keepany anywounds wounds clean, clean, dry dry and and protected protected from flies.

OnOn thethe shoulder we have to from flies. shoulder we haveseen seenthe themass massofofswelling swellingand andfluids fluids decrease decrease to less than half thethe size ...... these are the less than half size these are thevisible visiblethings thingsI Ican cansee seeon onthe theoutside. outside.

Internally forfor hishis joints that are of Internally joints that areunder underserious seriousstrain strainI Iam ampositive positive the the combination combination of EJF and C+C+ have been working EJF and have been workingwonders!! wonders!!The Thetendon tendoninflammation inflammation has has reduced reduced andand have all all butbut cutcut the Bute out, which on the the have the Bute out, whichisisaahuge hugerelief. relief.I Iam amsure surehad had II put put him him on products straight away hishis recovery sleep products straight away recoverywould wouldhave havebeen beenfaster. faster.Now Now II am am able to sleep thethe whole night through without checking whole night through without checkinghim himevery every44hours! hours!

Thank you TuffRock !! Brooke Thank you TuffRock !! Brooke

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 57

This horse is sweating heavily in very humid conditions.

Electrolytes Revisited Words by Steven Roberts B.V.Sc. Photography by Sue Crockett

E

ndurance competition by its very nature involves prolonged exertion, resulting in core body temperature increase. Horses lose heat mainly by sweating and horse sweat is hypertonic ie. has more salts (electrolytes) in it than does blood, so that the horse loses significant amounts of these salts as well as water during exercise. If electrolytes as well as water are not adequately replaced, metabolic problems will occur. For example, if a horse develops colic during or soon after endurance competition, you should always think first of fluid and electrolyte loss as the primary cause, not some sort of intestinal accident.

Volume 4 of Endurance Beginner to Advanced in 2007 had a comprehensive

58 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

article on electrolytes, fully explaining the background details of what, why and how.

This short update provides some relatively new information that was presented at the Brisbane endurance forum in June 2011.

Due to the factors mentioned above of large electrolyte losses and the need to replace them to prevent metabolic problems, it has become common practice by many endurance riders to give their horses electrolytes in various forms during the actual event. Methods used frequently are pastes, either the expensive commercial ones or home-made ones, utilising either a home mix of electrolytes or one of the good commercial preparations such as EnduraMax® powder, mixed with various things

such as apple sauce, yoghurt or human antacid mixtures such as Mylanta®.

Using commercially available liquid electrolyte supplements is ineffective in replacing losses because they cannot be concentrated enough as liquids to contain adequate amounts of electrolytes. The label recommended doses are also far too little.

For example, 1L of Recharge® contains 40g of Na (sodium) ions, 30g of K (potassium) ions and 63g of Cl (chloride) ions, so add these up and it’s about the amount lost in 10L of sweat. So to effectively replace what your horse has lost over 40–80km in average conditions using Recharge®, you have to get more than 1L into him!

Some research has shown that horses receiving suitable electrolyte supplementation during an event have better metabolic status than those that don’t, but that is not necessarily the whole story. Without going into details, as that is a topic of its own, we now know that many more endurance horses in work suffer gastric ulcers than we previously thought – around 60–70% in one study. Dosing with concentrated electrolyte mixtures during competition is most commonly done on an empty stomach and such mixtures aggravate gastric ulcers. This may be one reason why many people leave such dosing until just before they go out on track, hopefully after the horse has eaten and drunk adequately. A concentrated salt mixture onto stomach ulcers is enough to put anyone off their tucker!

One of the most successful endurance trainers in the United Arab Emirates is Jaume Ponti Dachs from Spain; he is the head trainer for HH Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, who is consistently near the top of the FEI world endurance rankings.

Apart from the successes with Sheikh Mohammed’s team, Jaume’s horse Nobby was ridden to first place at the Kentucky WEG endurance championship by his wife Maria, so he knows a thing or two about training endurance horses.

At the endurance conference held in Brisbane 8–10 June 2011, Jaume gave a presentation on his training techniques and preparation of horses for world championship events. He covered all aspects from breeding and selection of horses, through to their feeding, exercise and management routines.

The really significant thing that stood out was that he does not dose electrolytes during events! This applies no matter what the weather and course conditions are, as he has found that it can put horses off eating and drinking adequately during breaks between the different phases (loops or legs) of an event. He did emphasise, however, that proper preparation of the horse prior to the event is critical, with adequate intake of different types of fibre being essential. This is what the early exercise physiology researchers in Sweden referred to years ago as “feeding the hind gut” and it is a critical part of successful endurance competition.

Jaume also adds electrolytes at the manufacturer’s recommended dose to the daily feed of horses in work.

Another speaker at the conference who is highly qualified to offer informed advice was Dr Jean-Louis Leclerc, formerly the official veterinarian to the very successful French team and now its Chef d’Equipe. He

endorsed Jaume’s recommendation of not dosing electrolytes during the actual competition.

A selection of fibre types helps maximise hind gut reserves of water and electrolytes; this can be achieved by feeding a variety of hays and offering some dry and some soaked. Inclusion of Speedi-Beet or a soy hull equivalent in every hard feed provides both soluble and insoluble fibre to further enhance fibre options. Don’t forget that horses have evolved to derive their energy supply almost exclusively from poor quality roughage, so these fibre sources have a critical role there as well. Horses are not at all suited to high carbohydrate (grain) diets! They can, however, utilise various forms of fat effectively as an alternative energy source and there are now many forms of fats and oils formulated specifically for feeding horses.

During the event, offer the water mentioned below, plus wet hay (lucerne this time for its calcium) and a mash/slurry of an endurance pellet like Ridley’s plus SpeediBeet, plus anything else your horse really likes such as chopped apple, carrots or mashed bananas.

Offering water to your horse immediately it comes off track is likely to result in a greater intake than if it is offered some time later. Also giving water with electrolytes in it can result in an even greater intake with many horses, as long as it is not too salty – use 30g of a good supplement in 5L of water. They will often first drink the slightly salty one then go to the normal one and

Get into the habit of counting how many swallows your horse takes when drinking on track.

subsequently drink more than if they just had normal water.

Another trick to encourage consumption is to offer water at 20°C as trials have shown horses will consume more of it. Some horses may prefer a little molasses added, especially if the water at the ride base is very different to what the horse is used to at home. Try these different methods at home to find out what your horse prefers. Also get into the habit of counting how many swallows your horse takes when it drinks at bulk water points on track such as dams or tubs, so that you know how much it has had; one swallow is about 250ml, so there are four swallows to a litre.

A diet too high in average protein levels is also counter-productive for most equine athletes, but especially endurance horses where effective dissipation of the body heat generated by prolonged exercise is so critical to their wellbeing. The mature horse in hard work requires only a maximum of 12% protein averaged across its entire diet and any protein fed in excess of that requirement is eliminated from the body. That process of elimination has two negatives for the performance horse – it produces metabolic heat and requires water. So don’t add to your horse’s fluid and electrolyte requirements by feeding excess protein; protein is also expensive!

Continue the beet pulp/soy hulls and electrolyte dosing for two days after the event, plus a high quality concentrate feed to supply the necessary amino acids, vitamins and minerals for recovery and repair, as these are best absorbed and utilised within the first 24 hours after strenuous exercise.

So to summarise – ensure adequate roughage at all times and offer a variety of types immediately before and during competition, feed electrolytes during training on hard work days, do not dose electrolytes during the actual event and avoid high protein levels.

Happy horses equal happy riding!

Steve Roberts is a veterinarian who has been involved in endurance for over 30 years as a competitor, rider organiser, committee member and veterinarian.

His particular areas of interest are nutrition, exercise physiology and hoof care.

He is concerned about how the demands of elite endurance competition, especially overseas, are negatively impacting on horse welfare.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 59

Looking After

Legs

By Meg Wade

A

1

1

A horse’s front feet in ice buckets.

2

Topping up ice boots.

3

At the end of the ride it’s beneficial to poultice a horse’s legs using a proprietary compound.

4. Bandaging with a poultice underneath.

60 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

lifetime of work and many dollars goes into finding and creating any endurance horse, especially if you are hoping to have a champion.

Our aim in endurance competition is not only to create the champion but to prolong their competitive career, protecting their limbs without sacrificing the horse’s athletic potential.

Preparation Looking after legs begins with careful preparation of your horse – “legging up”.

Heart, lungs and muscles adapt to training quickly, partly due to genetic ability. It takes years to properly prepare your horse’s legs for competition, bones to remodel, ligaments and tendons to respond to the stresses of exercise.

When starting a young horse the workload must be monitored carefully with limited speed work and periods of rest. Rest is just as an important part of training as is the work.

Do not fool yourself by saying your horse has done years of stock work or pony club – your horse is now commencing an athletic career, experiencing stresses unrelated to other equine endeavours and exposed to very specific injuries.

2

You need to be familiar with your horse’s legs. Feel them every time you ride, before and after work. As you clean your horse’s feet it is a good time for you to feel their legs for any swelling and heat. It is important to make notes – our memory isn’t always as good as we think it is.

A suggestion is to take detailed photos of your horse’s legs and either note on the photos areas of swelling, heat and pain or using marker pen, circle these areas of concern on the leg prior to the photos, not pretty but effective.

At the Ride During competition it is critical that you ride within your horse’s capability – fatigue is one of the major causes of injury.

Front and hind brushing boots are a necessary evil, they can cause rubs but are handy, particularly when your horse tires and their movement becomes sloppy. They can also be good to use during a competition to protect the lower limbs if sections of the track are particularly rocky or if you travel through fallen timber.

It is most important that your horse is shod well and that the foot is correctly balanced. Twelve months’ training can be ruined in 30 minutes by your farrier.

3

Padding should be considered for concussive rides. Always maintain adequate sole to protect the hoof structure.

During the hold time at the vet check during a longer ride (120km plus) or following a concussive phase, you should ice the horse’s legs and feet – stand them with their front legs in ice buckets or wrap them with ice boots for up to 20 minutes at a time. Remember to warm them up prior to departure!

At the Finish Once again ice the feet and legs – 15–20 minutes on, ten minutes off using immersion or boots. Always two or three repeats.

Following the ice treatment, it is beneficial to poultice the horse’s legs using a proprietary compound. Care must be taken in bandaging the legs and if you are unsure you should seek assistance from your vet.

This poultice remains on overnight and on removal the legs are examined for any heat and swelling.

If you happen to be close by a cold, flowing creek this can be ideal to stand your horse in for a while and the movement of the water is therapeutic.

4

Afterwards Just because you’ve finished the ride and are home, doesn’t mean you stop monitoring and caring for your horse’s legs. The following day trot them up on a flat, consistent surface and observe for gait abnormalities. Take note again of any heat or swelling and record your observations.

Above all, be realistic of your observations. If you are seeing a repetition of similar observations of an inconsistency in gait or localised heat or swelling – it is time for a rest period.

Meg Wade commenced her endurance career in 1988 and during that year she completed both the Tom Quilty Gold Cup and the Winton to Longreach 250km. Since then Meg has gone on to complete 65 one-day 160km rides, winning 26. She has won four Tom Quiltys and holds 11 Quilty buckles. Meg has represented Australia in France, USA, Canada, Spain, Malaysia, Italy, Great Britain, Germany, United Arab Emirates, Qatar, Jordan and Bahrain. Her personal best performance was Individual fourth place in the World Equestrian Games in Spain 2002.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 61

Sue Crockett

Feeding the Endurance Horse

By Dr John Kohnke

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orses in endurance training undergo extensive preparation for up to two to three years to condition fitness and recovery for competition. The provision of an adequate and balanced diet is an essential part of preparing a horse for long distance competition. An endurance horse requires the highest daily energy demand of any equine athlete. They must be fed to meet these energy demands without losing weight but also maintain their appetite during hard training.

In general, endurance diets include more fat as a concentrated source of aerobic energy, which gives an energy dense ration and reduced bulk for horses which are often small framed Arabian horses with limited gut capacity and appetite. A well cared for and trained endurance horse is able to compete

62 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

over thousands of kilometres in organised rides over a period of years.

Endurance Horses have the following Special Nutritional Needs n Limited intake of bulk to maintain low gut weight, requiring an energy dense ration based on starch based cereal grains and fat, complemented by an adequate intake of high quality fibre for digestion. n A source of high quality protein to maintain muscle mass and repair, whilst avoiding hindgut heat production from excess protein. Avoid protein overload so as to reduce high respiratory rates to off load heat and also maintain adequate kidney water excretion and minimum ammonia smell in the stable.

BVSc RDA

n Additional fat as an energy boost, as well as optimum Omega 3/Omega 6 fatty acid balance to maintain muscle function and skin condition. n High quality fibre for efficient fermentation and water holding capacity in the hindgut. n Provision of adequate, but not excessive, calcium during training to maintain bone strength, with balanced phosphorous and range of trace minerals for bone and joint repair and metabolic function. n A range of vitamins, including Vitamin A for tendon strength, Vitamin D for bone maintenance, Vitamin E and selenium as antioxidants for the immune system, muscle strength and stamina, and B-group vitamins to help

maintain the appetite and metabolic function to help offset the stress of long distance exercise. n Adequate intake of electrolytes to maintain muscle/nerve function and fluid balance. Access at all times to a supply of fresh, clean water to replace sweat and other losses to avoid dehydration and risk of heat stress. n Opportunity for access to green pasture to maintain appetite and willingness, and drain airways with head down grazing.

The Basic Diet The weight or amount of food a horse in endurance training can consume each day is dependent on its body weight, frame size, gut capacity and appetite, as well as the duration and intensity of the work performed on a day-to-day basis. All diets should be based on an adequate intake of good quality roughage such as hay or chaff, contributing around 50% of an endurance horse’s total intake in weight of feed each day. The average daily weight of feed required to meet the needs of a 400–420kg Arabian horse in full endurance training covering 15–20km daily, is around 8kg daily, or around 2% of its bodyweight in weight of feed.

However, for an endurance horse in full training to meet energy demands, the ration

energy source is less reliant on pasture, and more energy dense sources based on grains and fat may need to be provided to ensure replenishment and meet the needs without tiring or losing weight. Pasture grazing is also subjected to seasonal variations in quality and energy intake, but it has value if available to provide additional fluid and maintain the appetite.

Diets do not have to be complicated mixtures of a large number of ingredients in order to be adequate and meet a horse’s basic nutritional requirements. Normally one or two sources of energy in a cereal grain (eg. oats, and/or barley with added corn), one source of protein (lupins or sunflower seeds, full fat soya bean, copra meal and lucerne), up to 5% of oil or fat, all fed with a good quality fibre base of chaff, hay or grazing, will normally satisfy the needs for energy, protein and fat for an endurance horse.

Do horses require a mineral, trace mineral or vitamin supplement?

If around 3kg of lucerne is provided as hay or chaff, a horse in endurance training should obtain sufficient calcium and major minerals to meet its needs from grains and the lucerne. It is unwise to feed excess amounts of calcium during training as it may suppress calcium resorption activity during a

hard ride and lead to the ’thumps’. A supplement of trace minerals (zinc, manganese, copper, iron, iodine and selenium – especially in areas known to have selenium deficient soils), along with Vitamin A and Vitamin E as the two essential vitamins that cannot be synthesised by microbial fermentation in the hindgut, may be necessary to maintain exercise capacity.

Prepared feeds (sweet feeds, muesli mixes or pellets) may have additional minerals and vitamins incorporated into the mix. However, the stability and uptake of vitamins and some trace-minerals that can become bound as complexes in a stored, damp feed mix may be compromised and an additional supplement may be beneficial in hard working horses.

How much salt should be provided each day?

Salt, composed of sodium and chloride, is an important “electrolyte” required for nerve function and fluid balance in the body, as significant amounts can be lost in working horses relative to the type and duration of the exercise, the ambient temperature and sweat losses. Other electrolytes including potassium, magnesium and calcium are also lost relative to sweat and urinary losses.

Sweat losses may range from 1 to 2 litres per hour of exercise up to 11 litres/hour in

A thirsty horse should be ‘topped up’ with fluid by allowing it to drink during the ride.

Sue Crockett ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 63

a horse working over long distances under hot, humid conditions. A supplement of 40g (2 tablespoonsful) of salt daily for horses in endurance training under moderate temperatures, up to 60g (3 tablespoonsful) under temperatures above 30°C during the day, will normally meet the need for sodium and chloride, as well as ensuring an adequate intake of water to prevent dehydration.

Preparation for Endurance Competition Endurance horses utilise their muscle energy stores very efficiently by way of aerobic (oxygen using) metabolic pathways. The extended duration of exercise results in depletion of over 50% of their muscle glycogen energy stores during a standard 80–100km ride. Adequate energy must be provided for exercise, tissue repair and to maintain body condition during extended training. In heavy training, feeding extra fat in the diet helps conserve muscle glycogen and reduce the rate of glycogen depletion, thus maintaining muscle energy reserve for faster finishes at the end of the ride.

Fat or oil contributes over twice the amount of energy as compared to starch and protein on an equal weight basis, as well as small amounts of metabolic water produced during the breakdown of fat to energy in the working muscles. The use of 4–7% by weight of vegetable oil (up to 2 to 3 cups daily) added to the ration to provide a highly digestible, dense form of energy to replace some of the grain is particularly suited to long distance aerobic exercise in endurance horses. It also helps to reduce the volume of the concentrate feed that needs to be consumed, eliminates dust in the ration and helps to

64 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Sue Crockett

Sue Crockett This rider carries a collapsible blue bucket to help water the horse.

Many riders carry syringes of a rehydration fluid, administering a dose over the tongue to assist in electrolyte and fluid replacement prior to allowing a horse to drink on the ride.

conserve muscle glycogen. However, this amount must be added in a step-wise manner of a 50mL increase per week to enable efficient digestion of the fat to energy in the small intestine.

Theoretically, it would be an advantage in endurance competition to minimise gut fill and hence bodyweight and ‘load’ carried in the lead up to a long distance ride. A lighter horse will expend less energy over a long distance and be less likely to fatigue early during competitive rides. However, concentrating the diet by reducing hay intake can increase the risk of metabolic problems such as tying up and colic, as well as dehydration because of reduced hindgut water reserve normally held in the fibrous roughage. There are a number of modifications to a ration which can be made, taking care not to cause food refusal by radical changes in the proportion or type of feeds.

1 For the last three to four days before a ride, provide an additional 500–750g grain mix, with protein meal and oil concentrate mixed in a 50:50 blend of cereal and lucerne chaff to help retain hindgut water reserve in the fibrous structure. Good quality lucerne hay for extra protein, calcium and natural salts can also be fed as an overnight roughage.

2 Supplement with an electrolyte mix made up of 2 tablespoons of salt (providing sodium and chloride) and 2 to 3 tablespoons (40–60g) of an electrolyte mix on the two evenings prior to a ride to encourage fluid uptake and replace salts lost during

taper-off training and travelling.

Ensure adequate water is available at all times and feed dampened feeds, including hay, to increase fluid intake.

If a horse is dehydrated or ‘pinched-up’ in the skin or ‘tucked up’ in the belly, the feed/ hay should be soaked in water. A wet bran mash at the rate of one litre of bran per 100kg bodyweight can be offered at 72 hours prior to the ride if the horse’s droppings are pebbly and dried out.

3 On the two evenings before the ride, increase the Vitamin E from the standard 1000IU daily to 2000IU daily. Some riders increase the amount of Vitamin E to 5000IU daily in the last seven days before a ride, but the horse must be routinely supplemented with at least 1000IU daily for two to three weeks before a pre-ride high dose is given. Many riders give a supplement of 10–20g of Vitamin C, and a range of oral B-group vitamins about 15 to 24 hours before the ride to aid the appetite during the ride.

If the horse becomes dehydrated in the 24 to 36 hours before the ride, administer a rehydration fluid and provide water to drink as well. Avoid administering saline drenches unless under veterinary supervision, because strong saline (hypertonic solutions) and electrolyte pastes can increase the risk of gastric irritation, resulting in gastric ulcers, as well as increase the degree of dehydration and speed bowel motility, leading to low grade diarrhoea and further fluid loss in some cases.

Sue Crockett Horses eating lucerne hay supplied on track by ride organisers.

4 Five to six hours before a long ride (no closer), offer a sweetened soaked mixture of 2kg crushed corn (or preferably cooked or extruded corn, barley or rice) or steam rolled barley (including one cupful of oil if the horse is currently being given oil for energy), 500g chaff and half a biscuit (about 1kg) of lucerne hay.

5 Up to the time of the ride provide 1–2kg dampened good quality mixed hay in a hay net for the horse to consume at its leisure. Always provide

water to drink until the start of the ride.

Studies have suggested that offering 500g of a sweetened grain mix ten minutes before starting a ride and again just before leaving each check point, may slow the onset of fatigue.

During a ride A thirsty horse should be ‘topped up’ with fluid by allowing it to drink at rivers, creeks, dams or other fresh, clean water sources during the ride.

This will not cause gut discomfort and colic if the horse continues exercising immediately following

the drink. Studies indicate that encouraging a horse to drink cool, clean water in small volumes during a ride will significantly improve its chances of successfully completing the ride.

Many riders carry syringes of a rehydration fluid in their saddlebags, administering a dose over the tongue to assist in electrolyte and fluid replacement prior to allowing a horse to drink on the ride. Some riders mix a scoopful of electrolyte mix in honey and glycerine to form a paste and carry it for oral dosing in the same way. However, very concentrated

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 65

Jo Arblaster

The author of this article, Dr John Kohnke.

electrolyte pastes must be avoided if water intake is limited. The horse must be allowed to drink at least 4 to 6 litres of water after electrolytes are given in this way.

At each Vet Check The primary need of an endurance horse resting at a checkpoint is fluid and electrolytes initially, rather than trying to tempt it to eat concentrated feed.

Ensure that the horse is cooled-out as quickly as possible after unsaddling, particularly if it is puffing and panting in humid weather. This will help to lower the body temperature and ensure a faster heart rate recovery.

Administer a rehydration fluid over the tongue with warm, plain water to drink, or offer 4 litres of luke-warm water initially containing 40g plain, fine salt and 40g glucose powder as a drink, and then after ten minutes, offer more salty warm water to drink, along with dampened feed or lucerne hay.

Studies have shown it is unwise to feed a large amount of carbohydrate based energy feed such as a high grain mix at a vet check rest period. The digestion and uptake of

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large amounts of carbohydrates will depress the metabolism of body and gut fat as the energy source and result in earlier fatigue due to glycogen depletion once the ride is resumed. However, feeding a limited amount of 500g of grain mix about ten minutes before resuming a ride may actually help to delay the onset of fatigue.

After the ride After cooling out, offer electrolytes, such as 2 to 3 litres of warm, salty water to drink initially.

Once the horse has settled down and is ready to eat, provide 1½–2kg of a dampened feed consisting of 60% chaff with added high quality protein to aid muscle recovery and 40% crushed grain or pellets. Mix a standard dose of electrolytes into the feed.

The gut is less active after exhausting exercise, so it is best to provide 500–700g (about 1 to 2 litres in bulk) of feed at 30-minute intervals, rather than encouraging the horse to eat its fill if it is hungry. Drinking large amounts of water or consuming a large bulk of food immediately after a ride could result in colic.

Once the horse has regained its appetite and gut motility is restored, feeding up to 1½kg of the standard concentrate used in training at 3 to 4 hourly intervals, mixed with an equal volume of lucerne chaff, will help replenish energy stores. A total of up to 5kg of grain with 5–7% oil added can be given as 3 to 4 small feeds during the first 18 hours to help restore glycogen stores in the muscles. Each meal should contain 14–16% protein, boosted by adding 200g (one cupful) soyabean meal to the standard concentrate feed to replace damaged muscle protein. To replace electrolyte loss in sweat, add a dose of a salt mix. Ensure the horse is rested overnight if possible before long distance travel.

Ideally, double the normal doses of electrolytes should be continued for 2 to 3 days after each ride, with free access to water at all times to restore gut fluid and electrolyte reserves. Dampened good quality hay should be provided ad-lib, or access to pasture after the first 24 hours to help replenish fluid levels in the hindgut.

Sue Crockett

Photography

M: 0418 309 592

E: mail@suecrockettphotography.com W: www.suecrockettphotography.com Based in South East Queensland and available for private shoots

Jo Arblaster

Riders need to be vigilant at all times about the wellbeing of their horses.

Azoturia and Tying Up

By Dr Richard Chapman

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ying up is a debilitating condition characterised by stiffening of the muscles in the lumbar sacral region of the back and rump, and shortness of gait. It is noticed particularly after work when the horse is cooling down.

Azoturia is a very severe form of tying up, causing pain, muscle tremors and an inability to move. This form is characterised by coffee or claret coloured urine. The fore limbs may also be affected, though this is rare. In severe cases, a horse should not be moved.

Some horses are more prone to tying up than others, and once a horse has tied up once, there is a higher chance of it occurring again.

Mares are particularly susceptible, especially in hot seasons.

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In the endurance horse, tying up or azoturia typically appears in or after the first leg of competition, or during hard training after a break. It may also occur as a result of long distance travel where the horse is ride fit but doesn’t have the opportunity to walk about for hours. Stress can also exacerbate the condition.

Tying up is basically a high level of lactic acid which is formed in the muscle and not excreted at a sufficiently fast rate. In true azoturia, the lactic acid attacks the muscles, breaking down the myoglobin which is then released through the kidneys and produces dark-coloured urine.

Tying up is caused by the horse consuming extra feed the day before an event, often given in the misconception that this will build up reserves. In these instances, horses get a severe

tying up or a mild azoturia on the first leg of a competition. Horses in these conditions should be taken slowly to the nearest checkpoint so they can be transported by float to a veterinarian.

Mild cases of tying up can also be caused by a horse not having the opportunity to ‘warm down’. Walking after hard exercise rather than immediately standing in a confined space provides an opportunity for the body to remove excess lactic acid.

Cases of true azoturia are usually found in hunters who have been fed high levels of carbohydrates the day before a hunt. Their work is typically faster than endurance, resulting in a more severe form of the disease.

To minimise the risk of tying up, remove high carbohydrate feed from the horse’s diet on rest

days and ensure the horse has some form of light exercise. For example, if stabled, walk the horse or turn it out in a paddock to minimise the build up of glycogen in the muscles. Ensure the grain content of the horse’s diet is in proportion to the work done – it is better to feed carbohydrates after work to replace stores in the body than to try to load the horse beforehand.

Adding the amino acid glycine to the feed can also help prevent dehydration.

Recognising the symptoms early can prevent tying up becoming more severe and aid in the speed of recovery. When the horse is being ridden, the horse will move strangely in the hind end, similar in some horses as if they need to pee. When the horse is resting, the rump and sacral lumbar back muscles will be hard to touch and painful to pressure. If there is severe pain, the heart rate will not come down as usual during the rest period. There may be signs of dehydration – pinch the skin over the scapula (not the neck) to gauge the extent of elasticity.

The longer the skin takes to return to shape, the more dehydrated the horse is. In severe cases, the urine will be thick and discoloured. The horse may be unwilling to walk, and may lie down and refuse to get up.

A veterinarian can confirm the condition by the horse’s history, clinical signs and/or blood and serum tests. In mild cases, if the vet has passed the horse as ‘fit to continue’, the rider

may wish to withdraw the horse. Walk the horse for thirty minutes or so to aid blood circulation with consequent removal of lactic acid, thus helping to prevent cramping. Keep the muscles warm with blankets.

In cases where the horse is unfit to continue, a vet out due to metabolics is recorded in the horse’s log book and a rest order may be included – the horse cannot enter an affiliated endurance ride during the time of the rest order.

In severe cases, the veterinarian may administer muscle relaxants, diuretics, electrolytes, tranquillisers and anti-inflammatory agents by either stomach tube or intravenous drip. Up to 45 litres of fluid may be required over a 24-hour period to re-hydrate the horse and flush out the kidneys. The horse will require resting for weeks, possibly months. Eliminate all grain and other rich foods from the diet, and feed only grass, hay and oaten chaff. A soft bran mash containing ½ kilogram Epsom salts and 1-2 kilograms sugar or molasses (for palatability) can be given as a laxative.

There are specially formulated feeds from feed merchants designed for horses prone to tying up. Supplementation with vitamin E and selenium, or via injection, can also assist to prevent the condition.

On a final note, be aware that neural toxins from snakes such as copperheads and browns can produce similar symptoms to that of tying

1

up. Check your horse for penetration marks if there has been a chance of snakebite.

Dr Richard Chapman has been a practising veterinarian for over 50 years, much of this time specialising in horse work. He has held a number of official positions in equine disciplines and helped to establish the sport of endurance riding in Australia. Richard has been head vet at many rides as well as being on the veterinary team for the Tom Quilty on multiple occasions.

1

Walking after hard exercise rather than immediately standing in a confined space provides an opportunity for the body to remove excess lactic acid.

2/3 When the horse is resting, the rump and sacral lumbar back muscles will be hard to touch and painful to pressure.

4

There may be signs of dehydration – pinch the skin over the scapula (not the neck) to gauge the extent of elasticity.

2

3

4 Sue Crockett ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 69

Sue Crockett

Do It

In Boots!

By Chrisann Ware

Equine Myofunctional Therapist, Boot Consultant for EasyCare Down Under, Director Australian College of Equine Podiotherapy.

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any riders participating in the sport of endurance riding are now choosing to use hoof boots for hoof protection. They are becoming to many riders, just another item of tack. Often, like human athletes, many riders have several boot styles amongst their kit for their horses’ use depending on the discipline they are involved in.

Hoof boots are proving ideal for both training and competition and more styles are becoming available everyday as boot manufacturers research the advantages available through the use of 21st century materials. New materials capable of lessening impact and concussion, and containing materials with properties that aid the horse’s recovery time after events.

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Flexible hoof boots offer the benefit of allowing the horse to have as close to natural movement as possible. This aspect helps to protect tendons, ligaments and joints from excessive wear.

Many endurance riders participate in this sport for the sheer pleasure of spending time in the bush on their horses. The owners of non-competitive endurance horses also seem to build a very special bond with their horses, a bond that often continues long after their competition days are over. Endurance riding tends to also create very user-friendly horses that tend to make wonderful riding horses later on for younger family members, so their longevity is often a major concern.

Sue Crockett Water crossings are not a problem for correctly booted horses.

Boots also allow the rider to have constant access to the hoof at all times, to do maintenance trimming when necessary. Many competitive and pleasure riders enjoy now having control of this aspect of their horse’s biomechanics, whereas when the horse was shod, hoof care depended totally on the availability and skills of their farrier.

Maintenance trimming done in small increments when necessary keeps the hoof at all times biomechanically correct, and in the form that nature intended. It reduces the effects of hoof imbalances that cause paddling and winging gaits. It aids in the reduction of concussion, as the horse’s haemodynamics (the shock absorption processes at work within the hoof) are able to function fully.

Hoof boots have been widely introduced to the sport by Garrett Ford, the owner of EasyCare Inc., the world’s largest hoof boot manufacturing company. Garrett is an avid endurance rider, whose family has been involved in the sport in the USA since he was a young child.

Years of competition riding have given him a deep understanding of the long-term needs of the endurance horse and rider. Garrett’s work with Dr Neil Glass, the original developer of the very first Easyboot, sparked his passion for hoof boots. His involvement in endurance has in recent times also allowed him and his staff and friends to research many boot styles in real world endurance conditions and allowed Garrett to show how versatile these boots can be.

The Haggin Cup is a prestigious award, decided by vets and run in conjunction with the Tevis Cup (USA) to honour excellent horsemanship with an eye to equine welfare/good sportsmanship. Only those who complete in the top ten in the Tevis qualify for consideration for the Haggin Cup.

Again in 2011 the Haggin Cup went to a horse wearing EasyCare boots. This time Jeremy Reynolds wins both the Tevis Cup and Haggin Cup using Easyboots. In addition to Jeremy’s impressive results, Easyboots were used on the third place horse, fifth place horse and an additional six horses in the top 20. In total 28 barefoot/ Easybooted horses finished the 2011 event. The Tevis Cup continues to show barefoot/booted horses can compete and win at the highest levels of equine sport. In Australia, riders are also having successes on booted horses.

What Boot to choose for competition?

The greatest advice I can offer from my now long time association with hoof boots is to say “no matter what boots you choose, the overriding factor for success is good fit.” Most boot problems stem from incorrect hoof measurements.

More so than any other type of riding, endurance will highlight if you have any problems with your gear! Saddles, bridles, saddle cloths and also boots need to fit well for problem free miles.

All hoof boots are three-dimensional. Sounds obvious, but often this is something those new to boots overlook. Just using a measurement of the sole is not the only consideration for good fit. You must also take a good look at your horse’s hoof capsule shape too.

If your horse is just out of shoes, he may exhibit flares, under run heels, etc. These are indicative of an imbalanced hoof and you may need to speak to a professional hoof care provider about rectifying these over the coming months to achieve good boot fit. In the meantime,

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 71

select a boot style that will work for your particular hoof shape. Be mindful that you also choose a robust boot that will be able to deal with the miles required of it in endurance training and competition.

Have a good, hard look at your horse’s hooves. Often we assume they are identical and don’t really “see” them. Often they are not.

Some may have high heels, some may have under run heels (which always accompanies over long toes) and some may be out totally of medio-lateral balance.

Sometimes viewing the hoof from behind with the horse standing on flat concrete also helps us assess previously unnoticed imbalances that display as heel differences.

Luckily the Arab and Arabian derivatives, the most common breed used in endurance, usually have a great hoof shape. Even so, there are exceptions.

Regular trimming is essential Problem free boot use depends on finding a boot shape that matches closely the entire hoof capsule shape. It is also dependent on having regular trimming.

If you choose a barefoot lifestyle for your horse and prefer to have a professional do your horse’s trimming, then schedule your trims for no further than four weeks apart. Lots of miles done weekly in training on booted horses creates lots of circulation in the bare hoof, and therefore lots of hoof growth in a four-week period.

If you can, it’s great to learn how to do a maintenance trim yourself, that way your boots always fit perfectly in between visits from your professional hoof care provider. Often this requires no more than running a rasp over the hoof to do a quick tidy up.

There are weekend workshops available in Australia and overseas where you can learn maintenance trimming. I recommend these to anyone who feels they would like to know more about the hoof and how it functions in the biomechanics of the equine. Even if you don’t use boots and prefer to shoe your horse, these workshops will allow you a greater understanding of the equine hoof anatomy inside the hoof capsule, and allow you to better assess any trimming done for you by others.

Arabians seem to have quite a number of club footed horses amongst the breed. This is now called high/low syndrome and if you own a club footed Arab he will need special considerations when choosing boots. You will need to buy a style that comes as a single boot as your horse will require two different sized boots for his asymmetrical front feet. You will also need to buy a boot that can be drawn in at the top to assist the fit on the club foot. This syndrome is a whole horse syndrome too, so have a good look at his hind feet as they also will have slight differences in shape and balance.

High/low syndrome is always accompanied by upper body muscular asymmetries in the horse’s shoulders. Usually hypertrophy and atrophy of various shoulder muscles. Sometimes these changes are subtle and are not always noticed by the rider, sometimes they are very exaggerated.

What is obvious is that these horses develop a steep, narrow forefoot with a high heel and the opposite fore becomes splayed out and sometimes under run. These horses prefer to graze with one foot back and also have a preference for one canter lead and one diagonal.

The hoof asymmetries impact the shoulder musculature. Because of the unusual muscle development in the withers it is also necessary to pay special attention to saddle fit in these horses. Sometimes you may need to consider treeless saddles for them. This asymmetry does make getting good saddle fit and boot fit challenging, but not impossible, and there have been many highly successful competitive horses with this syndrome.

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Good Boot Fit – What to look for We have used the Glove boot as our demo below as at this time they are the most popular boot for endurance worldwide. No matter what boot brand you choose, all the boot styles come with clear fitting instructions from the manufacturer relevant to their individual needs.

Read them, they are important and the manufacturers also offer lots of help with video fitting tips on their websites.

Also look for members of Team Easyboot who are at rides. They are happy to answer your questions on boots and boot use.

Take measurements after a fresh trim Most boot styles have an allowance in the sizing for a growth period of approximately four weeks, so it’s essential, especially with the close fitting styles, that you measure the hoof directly after a trim. Don't wait more than one week between the trim and measuring.

No matter which boot you choose be sure to read the manufacturer’s warranty and return policy. Boots are often a very new item of tack for many riders and you need to feel comfortable that you can return or exchange your boots if necessary, quickly and without difficulty.

EasyCare boots require two measurements: width and length.

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Width: Measure using a ruler. Measure at the widest part of the foot. The widest part of the foot may be located in a slightly different position on different horses depending on hoof shape. Make sure you set the ruler at the very widest part of the foot. Measure in millimetres, it is a more accurate way to judge. Measuring width the correct way at the widest part of the foot. Be precise, measuring width incorrectly will change the sizing and make the boot too loose once applied. Loose boots move on the hoof once the horse’s weight is applied to them.

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Then look through the measurement charts for the various boot styles. If you then find you are unable to match your hoof shape to any of the measuring charts, or are concerned that length or width are outside the sizing, there is help available from the various consultants who can recommend a style where the fit can be adjusted for unusual hoof shapes.

What are Fit Kits?

For some close fitting styles it is best to obtain a Fit Kit from your retailer or professional trimmer to try before you buy.

EasyCare added the Fit Kit to their range because using a two-dimensional measuring system on a three-dimensional hoof capsule leaves room for error. Think of the Fit Kit as an insurance policy to ensure you purchase the correct sized and shaped boots.

Length: This may be slightly more challenging than the width measurement. Find the part of the hoof where the hoof wall turns and becomes the heel buttress. Place the end of the ruler or tape measure there, and then slide it sideways back to the centre of the foot: you want to measure to the very longest part of the toe – perpendicular to the heel. Do not include the heel bulbs in the measurement.

Fitting the Glove Boot Shell This is the kind of fit you should strive for with boots whose template is the Glove, Glue On Shell.

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This measurement will not be correct: Note the ruler is at an angle and not directly down the centre of the hoof. This length measurement will be incorrect because it is not perpendicular to heel.

Using a paper and pencil, make note of each of the measurements for reference later. Tracing the foot on a paper will not help and is never accurate enough for correct measurements. Use the actual hoof measurements.

Note the ’v’ at the front is spread apart, and entire boot shell is flush with the hoof wall and shows no gapping.

There are no air voids up the walls and the hoof is firmly bedded down in the shell. The heels fit into the rear of the shell snugly and are not being squashed.

If you have a hoof that you feel is not a perfect fit for the glove but like the attributes of the Glove boot, then the Back Country boot may be used instead as its design allows for you to upsize successfully.

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This Glove Boot demonstrates poor fit

Trimming for success Well-balanced hooves and efficient movement equals great boot fit and wear. It’s great to do your own trimming if you know what you are doing. If you are a beginner it’s easy for imbalances to sneak up on you.

If you undertake your own maintenance trimming, it’s good to also have a professional check your hoof balance every now and then.

Correction of imbalances is not as easy as just trimming to make the hoof look correct. You need to also assess if this pattern of wear comes from conformational issues above the hoof. You need to know the health of the internal structures of the hoof by being able to read the living landmarks of the hoof.

In their extreme, imbalances in the hoof capsule (booted or shod) will create paddling or winging gaits and cause a twisting of the hoof on stride landing. This twisting is very hard on boots and can cause excess wear. A long toe or under-run heel type of hoof form are the arch enemy of the close fitting boot styles.

The ’v’ at the front is not pulled wide against the hoof wall. There is a gap at the back of the shell near the gaiter attachment and an air void in the boot where the hoof is not seated down into the toe of the boot.

Things to double-check When your boots arrive looking all new and clean and you can’t wait to get them on your horse and head out on the dusty trails, just double check them one last time before you go.

Try them on again in a clean area and protect the soles from being marked. Then just run through the manufacturer’s fitting tips again to be sure they are the fit you hoped for.

Then you are ready for your ride and remember, you and your horse are now working in stealth mode! Try not to sneak up on the wildlife!

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74 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

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Sue Crockett

Go to a ride with the intent of doing the best you and your horse can do on the day.

Timely

Tips Sue Todd has been enjoying endurance riding for over 15 years. She is involved with the running of the famous Shahzada 400km Marathon and is renowned for completing longer rides. She has six Shahzada buckles and a Best Managed award, a Big Three award (NSW State Championships, Shahzada and Tom Quilty), two Tom Quilty buckles, seven State Championship buckles and has been National Lightweight Points and Distance Rider on several occasions. She is easy to recognise on her spotted Appaloosas. Sue shares some wisdom about completing marathon rides.

Marathon Tips n Bring a sound horse, if there is a niggling worry this will not improve over the distance. I try to do a successful completion at an 80km ride the month before Shahzada and then let the horse rest before the big ride, not always an option but desirable. Attend to any skin issues well before the ride.

76 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

n Sort out any saddle issues well before the event. If the horse gets a sore back at an 80km ride, this will not improve over 400km. n If you are feeding anything more than hay, the horse needs exercise each day. n Be prepared! Take everything to the ride that you could possibly need plus spares. A spare saddle, reins, stirrups and leathers. n Use a clean saddlecloth for every leg of the ride. I use D-Lua Park wool fleece saddlecloths and have many which have lasted well over the years. n Get fit. You will then be able to get off for every downhill and some of the uphill stretches and teach your horse to tail. n Take a horse that you love. You will be spending a lot of time together and the successful completion will be a treasured memory with a great friend.

Talk to people and ask everyone for advice, sort out what will work in your

situation. When I started endurance riding people weren’t keen to give advice, so much of my time was spent with trial and error.

Tom Perkins senior told me, “Watch your horse and learn what is normal for YOUR horse and then you can easily pick when something is not quite right.”

If you are planning to do a marathon, you need help from a muscle therapist for your horse. The first Shahzada that my horse Kista did, Vic Bonham helped her with some Bowen treatments and after that I was lucky to have Sharon May-Davis, whose expertise and advice helped Kista earn the Best Managed/Best Conditioned Horse award in 2010, her fifth successful Shahzada. Last year with another horse, Lacey, Maurie Thomson gave her a quick massage after every vetting and it worked well for her. At the 2012 Far-A-Way, Erin Webber used her muscle release techniques on Lacey and helped her to a successful completion.

Don’t change anything before a ride.

Make sure you bring the same feed to the

ride that you have been feeding your horse for weeks. Practise at home with everything, especially your strapping techniques.

I put magnetic fetlock wraps on my horses prior to and after a ride as they stimulate circulation.

I always take my horse for a walk before I go to bed during a marathon or the night before a normal ride. My horses always drink when they walk back into the yard.

Remember, when the ride is over your horse still needs lots of attention.

n

n

Jennifer Gilbertson has been involved in endurance riding for many years. One of Australia’s more successful riders, she has represented Australia on four occasions including three World Championships and a Tri Nations Cup (Gold Medalist), completing at each event.

She holds eight Tom Quilty buckles and has been State Champion twice. Jennifer has completed the Shahzada Marathon eight times including a Fastest Time and a Best Managed award.

Mentoring young, upcoming riders into the sport is also one of Jennifer’s great passions. Jennifer shares some of her hints for success.

Strapping n Firstly and probably most importantly is that your horse drinks. When coming off track, if your horse puts his head in the bucket, disturb him as little as possible. Make his or her drinking

n

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Ride n

time to let your horse settle in and set up strapping and tack. n Warm yourself and your horse up and begin the ride slowly. Don’t be late going out at the beginning and on each leg. Try to ride an even ride, pace yourself, and aim to do the first leg in the same time as the last leg – conditions permitting. n Keep moving along during the ride. If you want to stop, do so at the water points. At the same time be in tune with how your horse is coping and listen to every word the vet has to say and ask questions. n Go to the ride with the intent of doing the best you and your horse can do on the day, with the conditions and the training you’ve done. Definitely don’t have the “I’m going to win and beat everyone attitude”. It won’t pay off in the long run!

Training n Do not do too much or too little training.

Your horse will tell you if it’s too much. n Relax and teach your horse to do the same – to conserve energy. n In training a lot of LSD (Long, Slow, Distance) is required to build strength in mind and body. n Try to give your horse a variety of different training types. Don’t make it monotonous for him or her or yourself.

If you feel training is laborious and monotonous, so will your horse.

Sue Crockett

Jo Arblaster Sue Todd riding Shalacy Bear.

n

water attractive. If it’s cold, warm the water a little. If disinterested in his drinking water, have molasses water. I use Stockgain and you can also use a very watery bran mash.

Air temperature in camp is a major consideration, whether it’s raining or fine and sunny, as to how much water, warm or cold, you put on your horse.

Monitor the horse’s heart rate. Cool the neck, belly, throat and under the tail. Do not put water on rump.

Walk your horse and let him pick between strapping sessions. This is very relaxing and dissipates lactic acid build up.

Check for sore back and tight muscles, particularly ham strings. Minor problems can be massaged and managed.

Always check for rubs and girth galls, and check all feet for greasy heel, stones or rocks that may have been picked up.

I once witnessed a horse cross the line and about to be a State Champion, trot up lame. Upon investigation a rock was wedged in the shoe.

Do not give your horse hard feed, allow him or her to walk and pick grass when you have finished strapping and are satisfied with the heart rate. This will relax the horse without putting the heart rate up.

Day Strategy Like the Boy Scout ‘be prepared’ motto – arrive at ride base with plenty of

Jennifer Gilbertson with Master Renaut.

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 77

Sue Crockett

Rest and

Rehabilitation Joint and Tendon Injuries

By Dr John Kohnke

E

ndurance horses are considered the most highly trained of all equine athletes, often competing over thousands of kilometres over ten or more years with very little downtime from injury.

This is compared with the risk of catastrophic and career ending breakdown in racing and eventing horses during high-speed exercise. Any exercising horse will occasionally develop joint, tendon and muscular problems related to ‘wear and tear’ on their limbs as a result of repetitive joint flexion, tendon loading and bone weight bearing. Endurance horses are often subjected to years of training and long distance concussive

78 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

exercise. Many soundness problems result from accidental injuries due to a fall or long-term structural stress resulting in a sprain of a joint, strain of a tendon or other musculo-skeletal injury. A rest up from training, with the duration relative to the degree of lameness and response to supportive therapy, combined with simple physiotherapy such as icing, cold water hosing, limb support bandaging, poulticing or liniment massage is the cheapest way to manage minor injuries in an owner trained horse. If training is continued, more serious joint or tendon damage is likely to occur, which may require X-rays, ultrasound scanning, expensive medical therapy, surgery or forced retirement.

BVSc RDA

Horses trained for endurance competition are physically conditioned in a step-wise training program over a duration of two or more years so as to achieve a high degree of metabolic and physical fitness in preparation for long distance exercise in excess of 80–100km. This also helps to condition joints and tendons for long-term loading and structural soundness. The Arabian breed, which makes up 90% of all endurance horses, are usually tough and well conformed horses which are suited to long distance exercise, both structurally, physiologically and mentally. They are almost

mature horses at over five years of age to qualify to compete, which helps reduce the risk of overloading an immature skeletal structure, common in young racing and other sporting horses. They are light in bodyweight and perform at aerobic speeds at the walk and trot with the occasional canter and short gallop in training and competition. The majority of riders also take special care of their horses to minimise injury and musculo-skeletal stress.

For all these reasons, endurance horses suffer relatively few joint or bone related injuries despite their heavy daily training lifestyle. In comparison to many other breeds of athletic horse, they have the natural ability to remain sound despite years of training and competition.

However, as they age with many kilometres of competition completed, there is an increasing risk they will develop wear and tear injuries due to long-term concussion and natural ageing processes of skeletal structures. They also eventually become less competitive in longer distance rides and therefore are often stepped back to 40–80km rides to help them cope and remain sound for as long as possible.

Recuperation during the off-season, usually over the summer months when training is cut back because of the heat, will allow natural repair and rehabilitation of limb, joint or tendon/ligament structures. This is an important part of training and planning for an individual horse’s long-term soundness during a successful endurance career spanning over a number of years. Well managed training, combined with judicious use of modern medical treatments, such as anti-inflammatory agents and joint therapies, as well as physiotherapy methods, such as icing

after training and competition. It is well recognised that endurance riders look after their horses before themselves in many cases.

However, because of the nature of cross country competition, cumulative concussion to the hooves and accidental injuries do occur due to hoof misplacement, falls, abrasions and bruising from sticks and stones, unstable footing and sudden overloading in any exercising horse.

1 Windgalls are a sign of previous increase in joint fluid pressure which stretches the walls of the joint sac. In many cases, they do not cause ongoing lameness.

This particular horse covered 800km in competitive rides and thousands of kilometres in training with no history of lameness.

2 Swelling within a tendon can indicate internal tearing of tendon fibres and haemorrhaging within tendon core.

Prompt first aid with ice packs under an elastic pressure bandage, combined with rest and anti-inflammatories, is essential to minimise swelling, bleeding and further core rupture if the horse is continued to be ridden.

3 Horses can cope with severe fibrous swelling around a joint and reduced flexion as a result of a wire cut, as long as the internal joint environment is still functional and the horse is not lame.

However, care must be taken to not aggravate the injury which may restrict movement and lead to a shortened stride and lameness.

2

Cindy Reich

Cindy Reich

1

joints after exercise, support bandaging, massage and magnetic field therapy, can also help to extend a horse’s competitive career into the mid to late teen years.

Common Injuries Endurance horses are prone to a number of wear and tear musculo-skeletal injuries related to their use as long distance athletes. In the lower limb, these include joint ligament sprain, cartilage erosion and sub-chrondral bone deformation and collapse, especially in the front fetlocks, knees and hocks, as a result of long distance exercise, particularly when ridden over rough country and as they age. As an example, many endurance horses develop wind galls on the sides of their hind limb fetlocks, which although they rarely cause lameness, are a sign that joint inflammation has occurred earlier due to minor joint sprain.

The cumulative loading of the flexor tendons at the rear of the front legs in particular, where 60% of the weight loading is focused in a horse under saddle, increases the long-term risk of internal matrix damage and associated tendon fibril strain. The hooves are subjected to sole concussion, cyclic sidewall flexion and repetitive loading during exercise, which can result in wall deformation, sole collapse and pedal bone erosion and demineralisation. Long-term weight bearing on the lower back in a ridden horse can also lead to spinal arthritic changes and sacroiliac ligament and joint arthritis as a result of years of long distance training and competition.

These cumulative exercise related injuries can be minimised by providing a well-balanced and adequate diet, expert farriery and often bare foot trimming, as well as careful and regular routine cooling out and supportive management

3 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 79

Jo Arblaster Climbing over rocks and rough uphill country can sprain joints and strain tendons. It is best to dismount and lead the horse, especially if it is tired and likely to stumble or lose its footing on slippery rocks. Ensuring the toes are kept short and the heels are adequate helps reduce stress loading on tendons.

80 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

Over recent years, research has provided a better understanding of the need for good nutrition in a young horse’s formative first 12–18 months, which is essential to reduce the risk of joint and bone unsoundness later in a horse’s life. Many breeders are aware of the importance of calcium and trace-mineral supplementation in the last trimester of pregnancy in mares and during these formative years, especially after weaning, combined with a steady controlled rate of growth in a young growing horse. Ideally, a revision of the nutrition of a horse should be carried out as part of any rehabilitation program.

Rehabilitation Principles By definition, the term rehabilitation can encompass the repair, rejuvenation and recuperation of a horse’s body, mental state and attitude to training, during a planned rest period.

In most cases, forced downtime from training most commonly occurs as a result of more severe grades of lameness and underlying musculoskeletal injury. The choice of the rehabilitation method and the duration of downtime from training will reflect the type, degree, the response to therapy and the risk of recurrence of a joint, tendon, hoof or bone related injury or stress condition.

Short-Term Rest Periods from Training In common with many other equine athletes, endurance horses, even at their peak of fitness, are likely to benefit from two-three weeks of down-time from daily long distance training to rest and relax to freshen-up and recharge their mental well-being and willingness to train, as well as rejuvenate and repair themselves physically.

Studies have shown that if a horse in an aerobically fit condition with near optimal oxygen uptake (Vo2 max) is given paddock rest, a gradual loss of 10% of aerobic fitness will occur each month. If a horse is rested in the early part of its season training preparation, during the first 10-12 weeks of aerobic conditioning for endurance or other intense equine sport, a loss of 10% per week in aerobic fitness is likely to occur.

Rehabilitation of Joint Injuries Studies have shown that lameness accounts for around 70% of lost training days and joint injury making up over 60% of the underlying cause of lameness in training. Joint deterioration is associated with progressive damage to the soft tissues, cartilage and underlying sub-chondral bone within the joint. Most joint injuries are initiated by the physical disruption of the joint’s structural components due to excessive or abnormal weight loading, excess flexion and sprain forces. These types of joint injuries can be cumulative over a training season and are often influenced by the age of a horse or how many kilometres in training it has accumulated over months or years of endurance training and competition. However, although joint injuries are

Sue Crockett It’s important to help a horse negotiate obstacles when its attention is distracted by other animals. Distraction can result in a stumble or placing its hoof into a hole, which could sprain a joint or strain a tendon. Steer your horse away from wet, slippery or rutted ground to reduce the risk of limb injury.

the most common cause of lameness and need for downtime from training, with modern therapies and careful rehabilitation, joint injuries are often more easily managed to allow a horse to return to training. This is in contrast to tendon injuries, where even a mild tendon strain will need long-term rehabilitation and have a high risk of recurrence in an endurance horse, especially in heavy weight rider divisions and as it ages. n Minor Joint Sprain It is relatively common for a horse which is trained on roads and tracks to suffer a minor knock, twist or over-extension of a joint, with associated ligament sprain, or concussion on a hard training surface, and in more severe cases, increased joint fluid swelling in response to the minor injury. The horse may exhibit a shortened stride and pain on flexion of the joint, and if not rested up from training, it could develop into more chronic joint damage if the internal cartilage layers become damaged. These are graded as minor wear and tear type injuries and commonly affect the front fetlock joints. They may appear as early windgall type soft swellings in the joint pouches on the rear upper sides of the joint, which indicates internal inflammatory reaction. This is a sign that joint damage has occurred which is a natural action to cause discomfort so the horse will rest the joint and

reduce further aggravation to the minor joint sprain.

In a ridden horse in training, it is important to assess the condition and rest the horse, initially confining it to a stable and small yard, rather than turning it out into a paddock where it is likely to further damage the joint. If the horse only exhibits a low grade lameness (warmth in the joint, lameness score one-two with increased discomfort to flexion), in most cases, minor joint sprains with fluid swelling in the joint, will respond to a short period of rest for seven to ten days, complemented by anti-inflammatory medication, once daily ice packing under an elastic pressure bandage or five to ten minutes of cold water hosing, or an overnight poultice applied to the joint and limb, may help to reduce the joint swelling and discomfort.

The horse may also benefit from joint active therapies to assist cartilage health and function, such as intramuscular injections of pentosan polysulphate or intravenous hyaluronic acid, combined with daily oral supplements of a glucosamine based joint supplement as ongoing supportive therapy on return to training. In other sport horses, wrapping a figure 8 support bandage eg. polo bandage or cohesive bandaging tape, to provide protection and flexion support to the troublesome joint is common practice during training. However,

because of the cross-country nature of endurance training and exercising during rainy weather and through puddles and even creeks on the trail, these type of bandages become wet, constrict around the joint or limb and sand can work its way down inside the bandage to abrade the skin and cause discomfort and lameness. Your vet will be able to advise you on the best course of ongoing therapy.

Once the joint discomfort has settled down, then ongoing physiotherapy, with introduction to light exercise on flat country, including leading the horse off another horse in saddle (ponying) so as to reduce the overall weight on the limbs, will assist the rehabilitation process. n Acute Joint Injury Severe, sudden lameness with heat, swelling and minimal flexion in a joint, are symptoms associated with external or internal ligament sprain or tearing, cartilage erosion or tearing, or internal joint fracture. Prompt first aid by ceasing exercise, cold therapy by icing or cold water hosing and then applying a support bandage to minimise flexion of the injured joint, and judicious use of oral anti-inflammatories, such as ‘bute’, is an essential early part of the planned rehabilitation process. Once the swelling and discomfort has subsided, then X-rays, nerve blocks and ultrasound scanning may be necessary to fully evaluate the degree of damage

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 81

Sue Crockett As endurance horses age with many kilometres of competition completed, there is an increasing risk they will develop wear and tear injuries. and a rest, treatment and rehabilitation program planned to heal the injury and allow the horse to return to training.

Rehabilitation of Tendon Injuries If an endurance horse develops swelling, heat and pain on finger pressure (palpation) over the swollen area in a flexor tendon or suspensory ligament on either the front or rear legs, it should be considered a long-term rehabilitation and even salvage case right from the start. The structure and load bearing capacity of the flexible elastic tissue of the flexor tendons and suspensory ligaments is influenced by the loading during exercise, and ageing processes within the tendons. At the canter and gallop, tendons on the front limbs operate near to their functional limit of loading. Tendons, unlike joints, can become fatigued by long-term repetitive weigh loading during exercise, heat retention after exercise and

82 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

begin to deteriorate within the matrix and fibril structure, especially as a horse ages, resulting in a higher long-term risk of strain injury and breakdown with forced retirement.

Any rehabilitation program for tendon and suspensory injury is a long-term project incorporating measures to minimise tendon overloading by reducing weight bearing, ideally with a lighter weight rider, reduced sustained higher speed exercise, changing to more flat work with less hill training, ensuring regular hoof trimming to avoid low heal conformation, all combined with diligent daily physiotherapy and targeted nutrition to help maintain the strength, elasticity and structural health so as to prolong the expiry date of a working tendon.

Prompt First Aid The most important first step following any tendon injury, even a knock which causes local

bruising within the tendon sheath to more severe internal tearing of tendon fibrils with internal bleeding, must be prompt first aid with cold therapy, pressure bandaging and rest to reduce internal bleeding and inflammation which will ultimately delay tendon healing. Naturally, tendon fibrils do not regenerate by replacing original elastic collagen type 1 tissue, but only repair the fault with collagen type 2 fibrous scar tissue, so that prompt first aid to restrict local damage is essential to minimise scarring and a potential weak point within the tendon. Modern stem cell and concentrated platelet therapy options can enable regeneration with original elastic collagen type 1 tissue to restore the physical structure, strength and function of a tendon or suspensory ligament.

Cease Training and Confine the Horse It is most important to cease training and confine the horse to a stable or small yard with daily physiotherapy and anti-inflammatory therapy for at least three to four weeks, to reduce the risk of repeat overloading. It is imperative that the horse is not turned out or ‘bushed’, as was a common practice, as the animal is likely to gallop freely, especially in the company of other horses, and increase disruption and haemorrhaging within the injured tendon and greatly prolong the rehabilitation time.

It is a good idea to have any tendon injury examined by your vet because of the long-term risk of ongoing tendon injury which could curtail a horse’s endurance career. Careful physical palpation of the injury combined with ultrasound scanning to image the degree of internal damage and fibril tearing is cheaper in the long-term to develop a rehabilitation program, rather than waiting to see if the injury settles down. In most cases, tendon injuries are likely to cause long-term lameness and require extensive downtime from training.

Tendon rehabilitation is a long project based on a step-wise plan to increase weight loading in three to four week time increments, starting with hand walking, walking under saddle, trotting on the lead, being trotted under saddle and finally light cantering under saddle over a four to six month period to allow the tendon to regain function and strength as tendon tissue is slow to repair. Any overloading by returning to full training too quickly will risk a delay in healing or complete breakdown necessitating retirement.

During this rehab program daily cold therapy after exercise to reduce internal inflammation and physiotherapy with daily magnetic field bandaging overnight, weekly laser therapy where available, must be carried out to support the graded increase in exercise. The tendons must be examined regularly, and ideally scanned after the first month and then every two to three months to monitor the repair process.

Written by Pa (author of T ula Boer Promise) & he Okapi Ill

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Liz C

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 83

Nutrition: The Ideal Ratio

By Carol Layton

B.Sc M.Ed

for Copper and Zinc

T

Tony Bowler

The author Carol Layton riding her horse Omani Mr Sqiggle.

84 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

he basic nutritional management for horses should be the same, whether you have a much-loved member of the family in the back paddock or are feeding a horse to comfortably complete a training ride or endurance ride or win the Tom Quilty. The foundation of any diet should be high fermentable fibre forage, pasture and/or hay.

The ultimate goal in feeding should be to have a healthy horse able to perform at the best of their ability at their level of fitness and conditioning with a well-supported and robust immune system. All horses, regardless of the level of work or whether they are breeding, will benefit from a diet with sufficient nutrients and balanced minerals.

‘Balanced’ minerals is a confusing phrase, often used on commercial mineral mixes and other equine products but for a horse’s diet to truly have the minerals balanced means the whole intake must be taken into account. It is important to have sufficient levels of minerals in the diet but just as important for these minerals to be as close to the ideal ratio as possible, so one does not compete for absorption with the other. One example is copper and zinc.

Trace minerals like copper, zinc, iron and manganese are required in very small amounts but that doesn’t take away their importance in the running of cellular processes in the body.

On the other hand, more is definitely not better when it comes to some nutrients, as the horse has to get rid of the excess. Too much zinc compared to copper is documented to interfere with the absorption of copper causing a secondary copper deficiency, despite adequate copper in the diet. In a study on growing foals zinc intakes between 1000 and 2000 mg/kg without also increasing copper intake caused copper deficiency symptoms of joint swelling, lameness, joint effusions and

cartilage defects. A low copper intake compared to high zinc has also been implicated with Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD) in growing horses, a type of Developmental Orthopaedic Disease (DOD) that includes symptoms like limb deformities and vertebral malformations. Other minerals can interfere, for example a high iron intake suppresses zinc uptake.

Ideally, the ratio of copper to zinc for the whole intake should be 1:3 or as close as possible.

A couple of analogies may help. All cakes require flour, but more than flour. If you leave out the baking soda and baking powder you won’t get a cake. However, just as important as the individual ingredients is the amount. If you double or halve the amount of baking soda and baking powder for the same amount of flour, your cake will not turn out as desired.

That’s balance at the tissue level. With absorption, if you have a lottery machine with 50 balls bouncing around in it, 49 black and one white, it’s not difficult to predict what colour is most likely to reach the chute.

Signs of copper and/or zinc deficiency either due to insufficient levels or a secondary deficiency due to adverse competition are: n Reddish discolouration of dark coats (required for melanin pigment production), often called sun bleaching or fading by horse owners. n Poor hoof quality such as shelly walls and disconnected white lines. n Frequent infections, skin problems, allergy problems (important for balanced immune system functioning). n Poor fertility, infertility in stallions, (especially zinc). n OCD in foals of deficient dams (bone/ cartilage health). n Muscle soreness in performance horses (antioxidant functions). n Anaemia due to insufficient copper for the production of red blood cells, rarely ever an iron deficiency.

Sun bleaching of coats and poor hoof quality are two of the more obvious signs.

Horses most affected by sun bleaching are the darker colours like black and bays but it also affects chestnuts, buckskins and to a lesser extent greys. Some breeds are more affected than others; Friesians for example don’t bleach as much. They may be less prone to it because they genetically produce higher concentrations of very dark, protective melanin. Even if they are producing less than normal it’s still more than most other horses.

A copper dependent enzyme called tyrosinase is responsible for the production of melanin, brownish black pigments synthesised from the amino acid tyrosine. This occurs in

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1 / 2 Change in hoof quality occurred after the owner started a copper and zinc supplement.

3 / 4 Change in hoof quality at the top is due to a copper and zinc supplement.

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Commencing the copper and zinc supplement has removed the fine cracks and resolved the more serious breaks.

6

Example of a healthy hoof on a balanced diet with supplemented copper and zinc.

plants and animals including micro organisms and us. The lack of tyrosinase activity is responsible for albinism and is related to grey hair in us. Sufficient copper is needed to produce the pigment in buckskins and chestnuts and both copper and zinc are needed for black/brown/grey coats.

The purpose of the pigments is to act as a shield against light. The fading is caused by ultraviolet light oxidising the pigments. If there are less than optimal levels in the diet, the hair will be more prone to bleaching but will look normal until enough pigment has been damaged to cause the colour change.

That’s why a newly grown winter coat will appear darker but then lightens over time if the horse is copper and zinc deficient. If your horse is on a more than adequate nutrient and mineral balanced diet, there is no need for

rugging to stop the coat from fading. Fading is a sign of mineral deficiency.

Copper deficiency in other species influences coat quality and produces ‘rusting’ of dark coats. This is especially noticeable in the manes of bays and black horses. This effect in horses has not been formally proven, but horses showing red tips on dark manes of dark coats respond well to copper and zinc supplementation when the whole diet ratio is 1:3.

A secondary copper deficiency can be caused by other factors. High molybdenum and sulphates from grazing on affected pasture is known to interfere with copper intake. Some horse owners add inorganic yellow sulphur to their horses’ feeds. There is a very small requirement for sulphur in a horse’s diet that is easily satisfied by grass or hay, the yellow sulphur obtained from stockfeed

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 85

This horse has been photographed before and after his introduction of a balanced diet. suppliers or in equine products should never be fed to a horse, it can be toxic. Avoid as much as possible adding iron as pasture and hay always contains levels in excess of a horse’s requirements.

There are many factors that influence the type of hoof a horse will have; factors include genes, type of environment, amount of movement, quality of hoof care, especially in the early years of a horse’s development and nutrition. No one factor on its own can produce the best possible hoof if one or more of the others are working against it. Nutrition alone can’t do it, nor can hoof care on its own.

Studies specifically looking at nutrition and hooves have shown that certain nutrients can affect the rate of hoof growth, how hard and tough the hooves can be, how strong the cellular connections in the wall, sole and frog are, the thickness of the wall, prevalence of seedy toe (white line disease) and laminitis.

Any weaknesses in the horn can lead to microscopic openings for microbes to gain entry to cause infections, to large cracks and chips.

Deficiencies in protein including specific amino acids for keratin production, essential fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), selenium, vitamin E, biotin and copper and zinc will negatively impact on hoof growth and quality.

The hoof wall is about 93% protein on a dry matter basis; protein is the structural component of all organ systems. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein, some like lysine and leucine are known as ‘essential’ which means they have to come from the diet, and others like alanine and glutamine are ‘non essential’, they can be manufactured by the horse. Imagine a necklace of coloured beads; each bead would represent one amino acid. A string of coloured beads would

86 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

represent a protein with each combination of colours representing a specific protein.

The key proteins in the hoof are keratins, mainly an alpha-keratin which gets its strength from the cross linking of the amino acids alanine and glycine and the sulphur containing amino acid cysteine, manufactured from methionine. The more cysteine; the harder the hoof horn. Cells that contain keratin arrange themselves in long tubules which, in turn, arrange themselves in a spiral that acts like a spring. The tubules deform, and then bounce back when the horse bears weight on each foot, providing a natural cushioning effect.

The chemical structure of keratin differs depending on whether it makes up soft tissues like skin and hair to the very strong and tough tubules of the hoof wall. In the hoof wall, the process of keratinisation makes the fibres insoluble in water and more resistant to chemical and physical attacks. In comparison the frog and white line are slightly different chemically, resulting in greater elasticity but lower physical strength.

Much has been written about the importance of zinc in the hoof and justifiably so. Zinc is present in high concentrations in the hoof with one form being the zinc finger proteins, rich in the amino acid cysteine. As part of the zinc finger proteins, zinc is needed for cell multiplication and the assembly of keratin.

Zinc proteins incorporated into keratin are also responsible for the helical structure that gives hooves their strength. One study showed that horses with insufficient hoof horn strength had less zinc in the hoof horn and plasma than did horses with no hoof horn damage.

Many enzymes responsible for a multitude of cellular processes require zinc, such as binding calcium in keratin. In people, nearly

100 different enzymes depend on zinc for their ability to catalyse vital chemical reactions.

Copper doesn’t get the same attention as zinc in the hoof but the synthesis of the harder type of keratin is linked with copper as well as formation of connective tissue. In horses, one study found a deficiency in both zinc and copper increased the incidence of seedy toe in performance horses. In cattle, a copper deficiency is known to be a cause of poor hoof condition, greater incidence of foot rot, heel cracks and sole abscesses. In sheep wool, a loss of kink and tensile strength is attributed to a copper deficiency. In Alaskan Moose, one study showed a lack of copper is a cause of hoof abnormalities.

Feeding a more than adequate nutrient diet with balanced minerals is the key to providing an optimal diet for your athlete.

There are so many variables with managing an endurance horse, like training and conditioning, coping with travel and the stresses at the ride base. Many are highly challenging to manage but your horse’s nutrition is one factor you can control.

Carol Layton is a keen endurance rider with a passion for equine nutrition, training and management. Her horse, Omani Mr Sqiggle was the 2009 National Points and Distance horse for her weight division. Together they have completed the 400km marathon, Shahzada three times and many 80 and 160km State Championship and Tom Quilty rides along with numerous Best Conditioned awards. The Big 3 award comprising NSW State Championship, Shahzada and Tom Quilty was achieved in 2010.

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The integral part of the Equissage device is the Equissage Therapy Set, which comes with the Back Pad and Leg and Tendon Boot. The Equissage Therapy Set is designed to provide natural relief and benefits to the whole skeletal, muscular, circulatory and lymphatic systems.

Using the Equissage Back Pad in the saddle position and the Leg and Tendon Boot for 20 minute intervals, the treatment assists in recovery time post event, enhances circulation throughout the entire body during training, improves rehabilitation time, decreases inflammation, lactic acid accumulation and level of electrolyte concentrate.

Equissage pioneered this form of therapy on horses and manufacture all its devices in its state of the art Brisbane manufacturing facility.

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 87

Nicole Emanuel Horses at Valinor Park.

Breeding For

Endurance Words by Helen Rutland, Valinor Park Arabians

V

alinor Park Arabians first commenced breeding endurance horses in 1979, with the purchase of the purebred stallion Oasis Desert Song. The sport of endurance was still very much in its infancy in Australia at that stage, with competitions only having started in the late 60s, and not many rides being held.

In the 80s, however, serious breeders began to pay more attention to the pedigrees of horses that were successful, particularly in the Quilty, and the marathon rides like Shahzada in New South Wales and the Far-A-Way Ride in Queensland. Initially the bloodlines which were prized were the Sala/ Shahzada cross, since it was evident horses that featured these stallions in their pedigrees, or horses with Aethon, all generally had good heart rates, and tended to be superior in the sport. It must also be remembered, particularly in the early days, that the majority of the horses

88 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

competing were derivatives, since purebreds at that time were very expensive and rarely competed, with a few exceptions of course.

As the sport grew, so too did the quality of the horses, and the early 80s saw stallions such as Oasis Desert Song, Chip Chase Sadaqa, Arabesque Pharoah and Arabian Park Amierr to name just a few, competing very successfully. Progeny from these stallions began to be sought after, and it’s interesting to note that now these stallions feature in a number of elite horses’ pedigrees, and even though they may not be in the first generation, they are certainly often in the second generations of good horses.

Mares from these early competing stallions are now also producing their own progeny, to stallions who we now recognise as producing successful horses.

Whilst it’s important to look at the pedigree for those who aspire to successfully breed endurance horses, pedigree and bloodlines

are only a part of the picture, and there are many components involved in raising a foal to be an athlete.

Breeding for endurance is definitely a long-term process. If a stud chooses only to compete in the halter ring, its yearlings can be out and competing very quickly, a time lapse of two years from conception to competition where your results can be evaluated in the show ring.

Endurance, on the other hand, takes much longer. I firmly believe it takes many years to successfully evaluate an endurance breeding program. From conception until the beginning of competition takes six years, and then I believe it really takes three years to put down a good foundation for an endurance horse who is able to compete for many years. For example, Valinor Park Moonshadow, an Anglo Arabian by Oasis Desert Song and out of Balfron Marbella, a Lightweight Quilty winner in 1982 and 1983, won the NSW State Championships at 18, and I know of

other studs who have produced horses who have competed successfully well into their late teens – a tribute to their owners’ patience, good breeding program and solid foundations and preparation of their horses.

Six to eight years can be a long time to wait to see if your program is successful, and one reason why breeders need to be adequately remunerated for their patience.

Certainly if a breeder can breed enough horses in a year, then your chances of breeding successful horses are increased, and I know that in the USA, and parts of South America, this is certainly happening. Breeding 100 horses a year will increase your chances, but there aren’t that many breeders in Australia who are in a position to do this, or who would want to.

For the first time breeder, there are a number of things to look for in commencing a successful program, and the first is the choice of a dam, and a suitable sire for her.

One of the difficulties endurance riders and breeders have always had, is that so often our best competition mares aren’t bred from very often – if you have a good mare, it’s tempting to keep her in work, and many of our top mares have been sold overseas. These days,

Sue Crockett

Sue Crockett Breeding a successful athlete can still be a lottery.

Valinor Park Tripoli.

embryo transfer (ET) and Intracytoplasmic Sperm Injection (ICSI) have made it easier to breed from these mares, but even so, it’s costly, and not everyone has the resources to be able to use these methods. One of the problems I have also seen over the years is that mares can be difficult to get into foal after they finish competing, and so don’t often leave as many foals on the ground as we would like.

I also find that many beginning breeders underestimate the contribution of the mare – preferring to give all the glory, (or not) as the case may be, to the stallion. It’s highly unlikely that you will breed an elite horse from a less than average mare – do not expect a miracle, and yet people do. Don’t forget your foal will inherit 50% of its genetic material from its mother, and 50% from its sire. Additional to this, is the environmental factors which the mare will contribute to her offspring – it’s the old nature verses nurture argument, and there now does appear to be some emerging evidence that foals born from surrogate mothers don’t always show some of the ‘personality’ characteristics that their biological mothers have.

Pecking order in the herd appears to be important, and foals from surrogates adopt

their surrogates’ pecking order. Studies in thoroughbreds are emerging that show the foals that go on to become the best racehorses are often the most dominant in the herd.

Certainly at Valinor Park, watching the young endurance horses play in the paddocks is enlightening and from years of observation, the ones who lead the herd at a flat gallop down the hills, are usually the ones who become the best endurance horses. Having said that, in endurance we are fortunate because not everyone wants to be first over the line, and there is always room for a sound, healthy horse that can recover within the parameters set out by the vetting team. These horses are really the backbone of our sport, and without them and the families who enjoy them, our sport would be poorer.

Before breeding any mare to any stallion, the breeder must evaluate both the sire and dam’s phenotypes, or the way they look. Any crooked legs, or less than perfect feet should never be considered in a breeding program for an endurance horse. Correct conformation is essential, and the only aspect of a breeding prospect where I would be prepared to be lenient would be in a head that’s less than exotic. Everything else should be according to

ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 89

Sue Crockett Over the years as the sport of endurance riding grew, so too did the quality of horses.

the breed standard, from the way the head is set on, to the way the neck comes out of the shoulders, the width under the elbows etc. It’s important to remember that the Arabian was forged in the toughest of environments, and the characteristics which make these horses so good at endurance are what we need to keep in our breeding programs.

As well as assessing how the horse looks, assess both the temperaments of the sire and dam. So often I’ve heard of stallions being criticised for the temperaments of the foals, and yet rarely do these same people look at the temperament of the mare and the environment in which the foal is raised. A flighty, nervous mare will give you a flighty, nervous foal. Once again, please don’t expect miracles from the stallion – be objective and realistic about the mare you choose.

90 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

We are now very fortunate that we have a much wider variety of bloodlines to choose from when evaluating a stallion for your mare.

Check the pedigree to see how much proven endurance blood there is, and if the stallion has any progeny successfully competing. If there is progeny on the ground, check the ‘strike rate’ of the progeny. A stallion who breeds 100 foals, and has ten successfully competing, is less successful than the stallion who breeds ten foals, and has six competing successfully.

Lastly, look at the environment in which your athlete will be raised. Good nutrition is a must.

Whilst I don’t believe that future endurance horses need to be ‘coddled’, neither do I subscribe to the idea that they must be ‘brought up tough’. You wouldn’t let a human athlete grow and perform their best on inadequate nutrition, so neither would you with an

endurance horse. Our young endurance horses are raised in big, hilly, pasture improved paddocks. Their feed is at the top of the hill, and their water is at the bottom. This helps their muscles and aerobic capacity to develop naturally. Raising a potential endurance horse in a small paddock poses a number of challenges.

Finally, pay attention to feet and worming.

I have seen horses die from ruptured aneurisms, not because their riders hadn’t wormed them properly, but more frequently because they hadn’t been wormed properly as youngsters. Similarly I have seen good horses ruined because their feet weren’t properly attended to – nowhere is the adage ‘no foot no horse’ more pertinent than in endurance.

Breeding a successful athlete is still a lottery, but you can increase your chances by doing your homework, and paying attention to detail.

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 91

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Currently Splendacrest has 20 Junior riders competing, as well as many successful adult riders.

Splendacrest also caters for International riders, with many visitors experiencing and learning about endurance riding in Australia with our team.

We also currently have Splendacrest “alumni� regularly competing in South Africa, USA, Canada, Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, New Zealand and Europe, and of course throughout Australia.

In addition, over 140 horses have been trained at Splendacrest Endurance Training, and many of these have been very successful competitors, with over 40 exported.

Are you looking for an experienced or potential endurance horse? Splendacrest Endurance Training can also assist with the careful selection, preparation and competition of your new horse. We can also teach you about the sport of endurance riding, and guide you to success.

Clients are able to join our camp at rides, learn from our experiences, be a part of our team, and be looked after by dedicated strappers. We will even feed you and make you a cup of tea!

Would you like to experience being a part of the Splendacrest Endurance Team? Or would you like to know more about Splendacrest Endurance Training?

Please contact Jay Randle for more information.

Splendacrest Endurance Training 2 Geitz Rd Preston Qld 4352 0438 309 458 splendacrest@hotmail.com

Strength + Stamina + Strategy = Success

Sue Crockett

Mentoring

Youth Riders

By Jay Randle

I

t is a well-known fact that getting juniors into sport activities is the only way to guarantee growth of that sport.

By instilling the values and requirements of endurance riding at an early age, the sport will prosper and our future adult members will hopefully repeat the cycle of instruction. It is a wonderful feeling to know you are responsible for providing the training that takes a young person from a beginner to an advanced rider in our sport.

So, how can you help a keen young person to get into the sport of endurance riding?

It only takes one to start with. If you can offer one young person the opportunity to come along with you to rides, and to learn about the sport from the ground up, you will end up with a valuable resource in your camp!

There are thousands of children out there, from all walks of life, who are interested in horses.

Many of these children don’t own a horse, and their parents are non-horsey. Most of these children are girls, some of whom have skewed visions of horse ownership courtesy of The Saddle Club, however the one thing they

94 ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED

have in common is a desire to learn about and ride horses.

Start them off with some safety lessons about how to approach and work around your horses. Teach them how to groom a horse properly, and how to pick up hooves correctly and safely. Keep the ground rules simple and clear, and always supervise them. If a child wishes to ride a horse, they must also learn how to pick up manure, how to wash out buckets and troughs, and how to clean tack and equipment. These things must be done well, and you will soon find out which children are ‘keepers’ and which are not. Primary school aged children can find the work load quite difficult, however teenagers should have no problem handling these chores.

If the child can ride, and you and their parents are willing to allow them to ride your horses, provide a safe environment in which to firstly develop their skills. A round yard, an arena, a smallish paddock, a safe riding trail, are all places to start, however the most vital ingredient is a safe horse. Make sure the child has a suitable helmet, and the parents should

be willing to pay for a helmet as a priority item once the child has committed to riding for or with you.

Worried about insurance? Yes, it’s a problem area, but not insurmountable. Most parents have medical insurance for their children, and most parents are well aware of the potential for accidents to happen.

However, although horse riding is a dangerous activity, you will find there are many more accidents causing injury in netball, touch footy and hockey! You will need public liability insurance on your property but most parents are quite willing to take out additional private insurance for their children. If the child joins the applicable AERA State Division as a Junior Member, they are also covered under the AON Insurance Policy.

A huge consideration when dealing with children of all ages is to make it fun! It also has to be safe, and there are many ways in which to make your stables a safe place for children. Here are just a few ideas: n Make sure all your tack and equipment is well maintained. Invest in safety

Sue Crockett

stirrups, check your stirrup leathers and girth points for wear, and have correctly fitting bridles for each horse. Putting a little name tag for each horse on each bridle and saddle is an easy way to ensure that each horse gets the correct gear every time. n Have a safe, secure area for mounting the horses. It is much safer for a child to mount their horse in a small fenced yard or an arena, rather than on the side of the road or half-way up a driveway. n Insist on a set routine for grooming, saddling and bridling your horses, and make sure you teach the children exactly how you want it done each time. n Devise your own rules for riding your horses. It’s okay to have lots of rules!

Stable rules, riding rules, training rules, competition rules – they are all important, and kids do much better when they know what is expected of them.

n Rules are also great for the parents of these children. Make sure the parents know what is expected of them too.

Being on time, giving advance notice if the child is unavailable to ride, suggestions on the type of clothing and footwear you want the child to wear, etc. n Let both parents and kids know in advance what you would expect of them with regard to official rides. Do you want them to pay nomination fees, or will you cover those? Will you provide food at the ride, or should the child bring their own food or money to buy meals? Are you willing to act as the child’s guardian at rides, or do you require that a parent also attend? n Stay positive! Teach and instruct, but do so in a manner that will encourage the child to improve because they want to please you and to progress in the sport.

n Children get hungry and thirsty when exerting themselves. Keep some snacks and drinks easily accessible, and let the children know they can help themselves after they have ridden and cleaned up. n If the children are happy, the parents will be happy. This is a very important adage to remember. Treat the children with respect, laugh with them, allow them to feel good about themselves, and make the learning components fun and exciting.

If you would like to mentor a youngster, and gain the benefits of having a junior rider/strapper at rides, then you will have to do a little work yourself. However, the end result will make all that work worthwhile. Juniors are the future of our sport, and you have the opportunity to guide and teach those future members, if you so desire.

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ENDURANCE BEGINNER TO ADVANCED 95

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