W IN A P OR TA BLE SOL A R P OW E R PACK AGE – VA LUE D AT OV E R $900
& 4WD ADVENTURES October – November 2014 Issue 93 Aus $6.95 NZ $8.95
OUTBACK – Painted Desert, SA THRILLS – Skydiving Rainbow Beach, QLD PLAY – Brooyar State Forest, QLD HISTORY – Kurth Kiln, VIC ADVENTURE – Ussher Point, QLD RELAX – Mudgee, NSW EXPLORE – Dunsborough & Busselton, WA SOLO – A winter fishing trip, SA & NSW
7 DAYS IN THE SOMERSET REGION
WEEKEND CAMPING GUIDES
HASSLE-FREE TRIP GUIDES OUT OF SYDNEY
REVIEW
ARIA 1 AIR POLE TENT FROM OUTDOOR CONNECTION PLUS THE EXODUS 14 FROM COMPLETE CAMPSITE
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CAMPING GEAR TRY BEFORE YOU BUY
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EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT
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BUSH POETRY COL WILSON
Seven Days in
Somerset Words and images: Andrea Ferris
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erhaps if I write really fast I’ll manage to fit seven fabulous days and six nights in Somerset into four pages – or I could make the images really small – but that would serve only to shortchange a tale that deserves words and pictures as charismatic and colourful as the place in which they were conceived. The Somerset region is close to the Sunshine Coast, really close to Brisbane, and even closer to Ipswich; as demonstrated by the bloke that camped next to us at Lake Wivenhoe who arrived with his camper trailer at 8.30 am, unhooked, set up, and drove back home to collect his boat! It’s been largely a ‘drive or ride-by’ destination for the other half (TOH) and I: a coffee stop on a motorbike ride or a quick pie’n’go on the way to other places seemingly more exotic because they are further from our coastal home. It was then, with a sense of curious anticipation, that I happily accepted an invitation from Somerset Regional Council to explore their region to test run their ‘real country real adventure’ brand. 22 |
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In barely enough time for the coffee in the travel mug to cool, we arrived at Captain Logan & Lumley Hill Campgrounds on the southern end of Lake Wivenhoe. The campgrounds, separated by an inlet, accommodate more than 100 campers in peak season, but on a sunny Tuesday in September, there were only a handful of campers gracing the shady gently sloping lakeshore. There are powered sites, but we chose a self-sufficient spot close to the water’s edge for easy kayak launching.
Tackling the Trails A quick sandwich was consumed as TOH unravelled the mountain bikes from the rack (a complex web of Velcro, occy straps and padding) and we were off to ride the Wivenhoe Hill trails, a new 16-kilometre network of multi-use trails by the lake. It’s an easy three-kilometre ride from Lumley Hill to the site where there’s a choice of trails to walk, run, mountain bike or horse ride – joy of joy, no vehicles or motorbikes allowed. The Blue Trail winds around the edge of the
lake. Parts were steep, rocky and challenging, giving rise to the literal interpretation of ‘push bike’! Blue then joined the Black Trail, a bitumen hill – long, steep climb up and exhilarating freewheel down to complete a ten-kilometre loop and a respectable 17-kilometre afternoon’s effort. After a well-earned hot shower, TOH lit the fire and we enjoyed our first Somerset sundowners. (Fires are permitted in designated fire rings or your own fire box and BYO wood.) As a bonus, a full moon rose over the hill in front as the sun set on our back.
Reptiles and Rail Trails Carolling magpies heralded Wednesday’s arrival. A stiff breeze and choppy water meant our adventure of choice was peddling over paddling. It’s a ten-minute drive to the small rural town of Coominya where the old railway station is a fitting place to park the car and ride the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail northwards to Esk. What’s wonderful about rail trails is that the grade is only ever about two percent and there
are no nasty steep surprises. The 24-plus-a-bit kilometres to Esk is mostly upwards; a gentle, but constant, climb. The trail is often rough and rocky (padded bike shorts recommended!) and meanders through bush and farm land. A heartattack moment happened as I cycled over a snake curled up in the sun – I’m not sure who got the biggest fright! There are four magnificent decommissioned trestle bridge crossings to negotiate where the track drops steeply down into the gully and up the other side. Definitely a ‘push’ bike effort unless you’re extremely experienced and fit. After almost three hours we arrived at the old Esk station, restored and part of a lovely recreation area. TOH and I made a beeline for the Esk Bakery in the main street, ravenous and ready to tuck into a country-style chicken salad roll and sample a mouth-watering lemon meringue tart. Enter ‘Alvin’ – a cheeky knitted gnome made locally with the proceeds going to the Royal Flying Doctor Service. (Choose carefully – some more risqué than others …)
Clockwise from far left: Campsite on the shores of Lake Wivenhoe at Lumley Hill. The first section of the Blue Trail winds along the lake shore. One of the old trestle bridges on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail between Coominya and Esk. The old Esk Railway Station on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail. Negotiating the steep downhill track next to an old trestle bridge on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail between Coominya and Esk.
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ESK Town Centre s Deliciou Food ESK Town Centre
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LEOPARD TREE LODGE Country Retreat Somerset Valley Queensland
• Delicious Fresh Food • Devonshire Teas • Home Baked Sweet Treats and Cakes • Nash Gallery Jams and Preserves • Home Decor Wares • Award Winning Potter • Flowers Essences • Open 7 days a week 8am - 5pm • Group Bookings available both Day and Evening Meals 212 Ipswich St, Esk Ph: (07) 5424 2424 Email: info@nashgalleryesk.com.au Find us on www.nashgalleryesk.com.au Facebook
Welcome to “Leopard Tree Lodge” Country Retreat. What was once a farm house built around 1896 is now a fully renovated African themed Country Lodge. Enjoy the breathtaking views of the Lake, Mountains and Valley where horse, cattle, sheep, buffalo and alpaca graze. Enjoy our amazing Bush, Creek and Lake walks or just relax on the verandah with a complimentary bottle of champagne OR Laze around the Fire Pit and enjoy the serenity “The Bush Camp” has to offer. Stay in our twin share Safari Tents and experience “Glamping” at its finest, comfy beds, fresh linen, hot showers. Ph: 07 5422 0700 Mob: 0427 226 066 Email: desleylaycock@gmail.com www.leopardtreelodge.com
Atkinson Dam Holiday Park Situated in a delightful Australian treecovered environment on the shores of Atkinson Dam. Enjoy excellent rates for our four star, fully self-contained cabins available for long or short time enjoyment. Other features of our holiday park are van and annex sites, camp sites with open fires, pet friendly, camp kitchen, pool, laundry, kids playground, café, general store, fuel and gas. Contact : Wendy, Wayne & Michael Maher
OTTABA LLAMAS Walking with llamas an activity for the whole family
Ph 07 5426 4211 381 Atkinson Dam Road Atkinson Dam 4311
enquiries@atkinsondamholidaypark.com.au
BUSH CAMPING AT ITS BEST! 4 Main Camping Areas with Gas Hot Showers & Toilets 250Km 4WD Tracks BMX Bike Track for the Kids Dogs Allowed Eftpos Available Open 7 Days
Ph: (07) 5497 3164 landcruisermountainpark.com.au 24 |
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Lead friendly llamas on the scenic Brisbane Valley Rail Trail or arrange a time to meet our llamas and other various animals *by appointment P: 0407 165 100 E: ottaba10@gmail.com W: www.ottaballamawalks.com Ottaba Llamas
www.tourism.somerset.qld.gov.au CORMORANT BAY CAFÉ
Experience a 1 Hour Balloon Flight, Restaurant Breakfast & Flight Certificate.
Perched high on the banks of Wivenhoe Dam, the café serves great food and coffee and has spectacular views of the dam and mountains.
Brisbane’s closest balloon company. Over Ipswich & Somerset region.
Just follow the Brisbane Valley Hwy to Cormorant Bay at Wivenhoe Dam, 8 klms past Fernvale.
Bookings recommended
Call or Book online for Flights & Accomm or Gift Vouchers.
Floating Images Hot Air Balloon Flights T: 07 3294 8770 E: info@floatingimages.com.au W: www.floatingimages.com.au
Open Wednesday to Sunday 8.30am - 3.00pm
(07) 5426 7305
e: cormorantbaycafe@yahoo.com.au Cormorant Bay Cafe
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Escape, Relax & Enjoy. A unique hand built eco-friendly masterpiece of natural stone, raw timbers, recycled materials and polished concrete.
the sky is
no limit
Pterodactyl Helicopters Experience a whole new level of Wonder Take a chopper ride over golden countryside, landing to sample only the best attractions. And getting there is half the fun!
0417 727 532
pterodactyl.com.au
3201 0005
Kilcoy Auto Essentials Parts & Accessories
Camping and fishing gear.
thestonehouseretreat.com.au For bookings enquiries:
enquiries@thestonehouseretreat.com.au OR phone 0488 759 990
Oil and grease. Hoses and fittings. Tools. 10 William Street, Kilcoy Ph (07) 5422 0777
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Tarts and Tree Tops We certainly hadn’t shirked any ‘real adventure’ up to this point, but it was time to seek some rest and relaxation under the shady trees at the Esk Caravan Park. Before we put our feet up though we grabbed another couple of chicken salad rolls from the Esk Bakery and joined Cam for lunch on the verandah of his stone house, about 20 kilometres up the road at Ravensbourne. The aptly-named StoneHouse Retreat sits on an escarpment amid 165 acres of Australian bush and, quite frankly, is difficult to describe without resorting to cliché superlatives. The view is breathtaking and the house, built with local blue stone and timber, envelopes you with a feeling of serenity – the working world could be thousands of miles away. Cam only recently began letting the house as a getaway retreat and has plans to include a few spots for camping on the property in 2015. Back in Esk, TOH and I felt entitled to a ‘treat’ considering the calories we’d burned lately and where better to find one than at the Nash Gallery & Café in the main street. Sandee creates sweet treats and husband Gary creates beautiful pottery and it all comes together under the roof of the historic Lars Andersen house. We sat on yet another gorgeous verandah surrounded by colourful local arts and crafts and scoffed the best apricot and prune tart I’ve ever tasted! Alas, it was Friday, which in September can only mean one thing – where in a Queensland country town can an AFL match be viewed? Why, at the Club Hotel owned by the step-son of a Hawthorn football great of course. And there’s good value country pub meals on offer to boot.
Clockwise from above: The kayaks gliding by pelicans on the shore of Lake Wivenhoe. Getting up close and personal with an Ottaba llama. The stunning StoneHouse Retreat.
Fully sated, it was back on the bike for the, mostly, downhill, reptile-free ride back to Coominya where TOH, fantasising about a beer, headed for the pub and I, fantasising about sugar, headed to the local grocery store for a well-earned ice-cream. Back at Lumley Hill, the trail dust washed away, we enjoyed another fire, some marinated chicken and salad, guiltily followed by chocolate, and an early night.
Perfect Paddling A still Thursday dawn. Not a breath of wind or a ripple on the lake. By 9.00 am we’d packed and parked the van and were paddling southeast to Cormorant Bay. The kayaks glided past kangaroos grazing at the water’s edge and vast flocks of cormorants, darters and pelicans hovering nervously nearby. The timbered hills in the distance provide a green contrast to the mirror-like water and drought-parched grazing land on the opposite shore. We stopped for a muesli bar break on a peninsula, clearly an eagle’s midden, littered with the skeletal remains of creatures great and small. About two and a half hours (roughly 12 km) later we landed at Cormorant Bay, the ‘business’ end of the lake with the dam wall and power station, and the gorgeous Cormorant Bay Café. Enjoying ‘retirement’, although she’s probably 26 |
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never worked so hard, café owner Terry joined us on the sun-drenched verandah overlooking the lake to recount how two years hence she’d sat at the very same table and had an epiphany that led to her present day epicurean existence. The menu is a delightful choice ranging from gourmet sandwiches to Asian cuisine. Terry prides her successful business on fresh food and good service, ‘The view,’ she laughs, ‘is just an added bonus!’ On the paddle back we witnessed the most amazing phenomenon: literally thousands of birds on the lake all taking off as one. The water was glassy and the sound like a thundering waterfall. Truly spectacular. As the sun sank low on the horizon we bid farewell to Lake Wivenhoe and hello to Atkinson Dam, about a 20-minute drive west. The renamed Atkinson Dam Holiday Park is being renovated, regenerated, resurrected and restored by the energetic and enthusiastic new owners, Wayne and Wendy. It’s been a mighty four-month effort with an estimated six months more to go and so far it’s spectacular – the bathroom was better than my own at home! The park, set in a rural area, is a short walk to the dam and some sites have water views. We’re looking forward to returning in 2015 to see the finished product.
Llamas and Lamps Foregoing high fibre and low fat, TOH insisted on a sausage sanga for Saturday brekkie at the Esk markets, held every Saturday morning with a range of stalls offering antiques and old wares, to home-made beanies and bootees. My pocket money went on a circa 1900 kerosene lamp complete with reflector – a gorgeous reminder of the days before electricity. Intending to head north to Jimna, we managed a whole 17 kilometres to Toogoolawah before being sidetracked at the Toogoolawah Railway Markets. Here we met Mark and Louise from Ottaba Llamas who run llama walks on the rail trail near their property. Llamas are, apparently, friendlier than alpacas – less prone to spit when they get cross, which TOH was happy to hear as he headed off on a little llama liaison. We bought local jam, filled up on delicious Asian food and then, feeling decidedly soporific in the spring sunshine, decided to stay the night at the Toogoolawah Showground. Caretakers Bev and Gordon provide a friendly welcome and a ‘park anywhere, love’ attitude. After a cup of coffee, a read of the paper and some entertainment watching the skydivers from nearby Skydive Ramblers gliding precariously back to earth, we took an afternoon drive through cattle station country to the westernmost edge of the region to enjoy some impressive views from atop the Biarra Range.
Somerset Wineries 1 Ocean View Estates Winery & Restaurant
Winya Wines “Winya Wines” is honoured to take its name from the pioneer William Butler, the “Grand Old Man of Kilcoy”, loved and respected in the whole region. The Winya vineyard reflects the vision and innovation that William Butler had for this fertile area. Nestled in the picturesque valley of Sandy Creek, Winya Wines is just 1 hour’s easy drive from Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. Owners Gary (Snow) and Sue Pratten ventured into grape growing in 1997 as an addition to their successful beef cattle property. Visitors are welcome to visit the cellar door where fine wine tasting can be enjoyed in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere whilst appreciating the breathtaking views of the surrounding district. Visitors are welcome to purchase the on farm quality black angus beef cuts or enjoy a barbeque rib fillet steak lunch with a glass of red.
Ocean View Estates is not just a winery, not just a restaurant - it’s the end of the journey: the destination, offering vineyards, cellar door, accommodation, à la carte dining and Australia’s most intimate and hands-on experience of a fully-operational winery, all in one location just 45 kilometres north-west of the Brisbane CBD. At Ocean View Estates, guests get closer to the action and, with everything on one beautiful property within the Somerset Valley’s wine region, it’s easy to come and unwind in the vines for an hour, a day, or a weekend. Plenty of room for parking.
Gary & Sue Pratten ~ 145 Sandy Creek Road Kilcoy Q 4515 ~ P/F (07) 5497 1504 M 0408 151 824 www.winyawines.com.au a
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Woongooroo Estate
Springdell Fruit Wines Fernvale
Originally a three generation beef and dairy property - diversified to stone fruit in 1988. In 2001 the idea of using the non marketable fruit for wine began. After two failed years of having wine made elsewhere, Rodney decided to follow the original way of making these traditional Country Wines. In 2004 the first non preservative plum port Toowoomba Ipswich was bottled. Our preservative free wines and ports are available from our two Satellite Cellar Ipswich Motorway Doors - in Kilcoy at Rock ‘N’ Country - 25 Seib Street, and Montville at Fudgyboombahs on Main Street. Phone and Mail Orders are welcome and group bookings by appointment only to Springdell Fruit Wines can be arranged.
Phone Susan or Rodney - 07 5498 1252 or Mobile 0407 765 950 email springdell@bigpond.com www.somersetwinery.com.au
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Woongooroo Estate is a boutique Vineyard, Cellardoor, Cafe and Wine Operation between Kilcoy and Woodford along Neurum Road.
We cater for motorhomes, caravan groups and individuals looking for fabulous wine, great food and guided fun activities for groups. Woongooroo is famous for its wine and cheese matching experience (minimum four). We are open Wed - Sun 9.00am 4.00pm .. other times by appointment. Winetaste at our Cellardoor or eat in our alfresco area. Your time will certainly be enjoyed at Woongooroo. Visit our Estate when in the fabulous Somerset Region. Come and meet Phil, Gail and Amanda and experience our authentic and genuine hospitality. Who knows, the Kilcoy Yowie may even make a guest appearance ..!!
(07) 5496 3529
woongoorooestate@bigpond.com www.woongoorooestate.com www.winerybustours.com.au 35 Doyles Road (PO BOX 72), Kilcoy 4515 www.mysterycarrallies.com.au 0408 064 134
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Falling and Four-Wheel Drives The old stables and grandstand were shrouded in mist on Sunday morning, bringing back memories of other country showgrounds on the show horse circuit. Today, though, it’s the caravan that gets hitched up as we make our way a couple of kilometres to Ramblers to get a closer look at the skydiving. ‘Have a go at a tandem,’ says Chief Instructor, Macca (Dave McEvoy) as I asked permission to take a few photos. ‘Absolutely no way in hell,’ or words to that effect, was my answer! Happy to leave our feet well and truly planted on terra firma we absorbed the adrenalin-soaked ambience for a while trying (and failing) to capture a really great parachuting image – harder than you’d think without a mega-zoom lens. After all that nervous energy our next stop at the Winya Winery was most welcome. Sue and Gary Pratten’s boutique vineyard is in the picturesque Mt Kilcoy valley and one of six wineries on the Somerset Valleys Wine Trail. (We just didn’t have time to visit all of them so have provided a guide on page 27.) Winya specialises in delicious Angus steak barbeque meals with wine tastings and sales. My recommendation: the Angus Red, a light, fruity wine best served slightly chilled and perfect for summer lunch. Speaking of lunch, the Kilcoy Bakery beckoned where a chicken mornay pie provided nourishment for the hour’s drive north through the Conondale Ranges to Landcruiser Mountain Park – four-wheel-drive heaven for big boys and their toys. Alben Perrett’s been welcoming off-road enthusiasts to his 10,000-acre property for more than 25 years. In fact, he told us that more than 300,000 vehicles had visited the park since it opened. Bush camping anywhere on the property is encouraged, but we chose the Cowah Falls campground, which has a toilet and hot shower. The road in is suitable for two-wheel drives (just) and off-road vans and trailers only. On Sunday night after everyone had gone home the wallabies and deer appeared and all that could be heard was the hoot of an owl. Monday morning was too lovely to do anything but kick back in the quiet and read a good book. Reluctantly, I was persuaded to go for a short drive around one of the less challenging tracks that criss-cross the park. We did have two kayaks and two bikes on board, so no serious off-roading was possible, however I did get a good sense of what’s on offer for those that thrive in low range. A park pass is good for 24 hours so it wasn’t until 2.00 pm that we trekked back to the office to sign out and head home. Doodling in the dusty ute door I reflected on the past week. Did the Somerset region live up to its ‘Real Country Real Adventure’ tag? Indubitably! 28 |
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Clockwise from top: Watching the skydiving at Skydive Ramblers. It’s tricky to get a decent parachuting photo! A little bit of 4WDing despite having bikes and boats on board. TOH enjoys a tasting at Winya Winery near Kilcoy.
More information: Lake Wivenhoe – www.seqwater.com.au/recreation or 07 5426 4729 Brisbane Valley Rail Trail – www.dsdip.qld.gov.au/bvrt-homepage.html Cormorant Bay Café – Facebook search ‘Cormorant Bay Café’ Atkinson Dam Holiday Park – www.atkinsondamholidaypark.com.au or 07 5426 4211 The StoneHouse Retreat – www.thestonehouseretreat.com.au or 0488 759 990 Nash Gallery & Café – www.nashgalleryesk.com.au or 07 5424 2424 Esk Market – 07 5424 1805 held every Saturday Toogoolawah Market – Facebook – Toogoolawah Railway Markets held the 2nd Saturday of each month. Toogoolawah Showground camping – 0408 473 843 Skydive Ramblers – www.ramblers.com.au or 1800 999 014 Landcruiser Mountain Park – www.landcruisermountainpark.com.au or 07 5497 3164 Somerset Tourism – www.tourism.somerset.qld.gov.au or 07 5424 4000
Somerset Valley Wine Trail: Winya Wines – www.winyawines.com.au for lunch bookings 07 5497 1504 or 0408 151 824 Ocean View Estates – www.oceanviewestates.com.au or 07 3425 3900 Woongooroo Estate – www.woongoorooestate.com or 07 5496 3529 Springdell Fruit Wines – www.somersetwinery.com.au or 07 5498 1252 or 0407 765 950
REAL COUNTRY REAL ADVENTURE
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Friendly travel advice ~ Tourist maps Directions ~ Brochures ~ Souvenirs
Visitor Information Centres Esk Visitor Information Centre
Fernvale Futures Complex
Kilcoy Information Centre
82 Ipswich Street Esk Qld. 4312 P: (07) 5424 2923
1483 Brisbane Valley Hwy Fernvale Qld. 4306 P: (07) 5427 0200
Yowie Park, Hope Street Kilcoy Qld. 4515 P: (07) 5424 4000
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P: (07) 5424 4000
E: tourism@somerset.qld.gov.au
www.tourism.somerset.qld.gov.au
Give me Somerset Any Day
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