Go Camping & 4WD Adventures - Issue 96 by Vink Publishing

& 4WD ADVENTURES April – May 2015 Issue 96 Aus $6.95 NZ $8.95

COFFS COAST

READER’S TRIP REPORT GIPPSLAND TO DARWIN

REVIEW

MARS CAMPERS’ SOFT TOP RANGER

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT NATIONAL PARK FEES AND CHARGES BUSH – Watagans National Park, NSW OUTBACK – Kilcowera Station Stay, QLD QUIRKY – Hunting for Hunt, WA HISTORY – Point Nepean, VIC RELAX – Daintree National Park, QLD EXPLORE – Old Grafton Road, NSW FAMILY FUN – Fleurieu Peninsula, SA ADVENTURE – Whale Swimming, QLD

CAMP COOKING LOVE THAT LAMB

FESTIVAL FUN

PARKES ELVIS FESTIVAL, NSW

NEW: CAMPCRAFT CORNER

COOKING AND EATING WITHOUT UTENSILS

NEWS & EVENTS WHAT’S ON

GEAR

WHAT’S HOT

GET OFF ROAD WITH PHIL

Collector’s Items

ENGEL ‘LEGACY ’ SERIES FRIDGE-FREEZERS

In 2015, Australians will commemorate 100 years since our nation’s involvement in the First World War. Like all Australians, Engel Australia are doing their part to acknowledge this significant event in Australian history. Engel have released two special edition army green portable fridge freezers and matching camouflage transit bags. These collectors items will be available from mid-March and while stocks last. Part proceeds will go directly to Legacy to help support the families of returned service men and women.

SPECIAL EDITION LEGACY FRIDGES S B AG A M OF O R C Y C E L E G AVA I L A B L D E L S O A M H BOT

• Fully endorsed by Legacy • Army green colour with Legacy badge • Features Engel Digital Technology • Sawafuji Swing Motor • Tough steel construction • Available in the 40 litre and 60 litre model • Limited stock available

A S K YO R E TA I L U R E N G E L ER T YO U R S O O R D E R N OW !

Proudly supporting Legacy. Commemorating 100 years of the ANZAC tradition

For more information or your nearest stockist, visit www.engelaustralia.com.au

CON TENTS

6 FROM THE EDITOR Bubblin’ Boomi By Andrea Ferris

8 NEWS, VIEWS & EVENTS

26 The Land of the Beardies

Driving the Old Grafton Road from Glen Innes to Grafton. By Russ Ryan

10 Through My Eyes Wheat-belt WA By Danielle Harvey

30 A Whale of a Time on the Fleurieu A family escape from the summer heat to SA’s fun Fleurieu Peninsula. By Jannene Cannard

12 From the Rainforest to the Reef

34 Wet and Wild Watagans

A giant crocodile head serves as a warning for the journey into tropical FNQ. By Karyn Fanous

16 Digging into our Military History

On the eve of the 100th anniversary of ANZAC day, learn about the first defence of Australia in WWII. By Monica McInnes

20 FEATURE Coffs Coast

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Off-roading and camping in Watagans National Park so close to Sydney. By Jennifer Ennion

36 Hunting for Hunt On the trail of Charles Cook Hunt and his water wells in WA. By Jill Harrison 40 Kookynie .. the town that

refuses to die An abandoned outback goldmining town with a pub that’s 113 years old. By Therese Sayers

44 Whale Dreams

The thrilling proposition of swimming with whales in the Great Sandy Marine Park. By Kara Murphy

50 Tips for choosing a Portable Fridge Here’s a quick guide to help choose the fridge that’s right for you. By Monica McInnes

52 A Big Hunk o’ Love

Tapping the blue suede shoes at the Parkes Elvis Festival. By Andrea Ferris

55 Access All Areas

Arm yourself with all the facts on national park passes before you cross the border. By Claudia Bouma

58 Kilcowera Station

A nature lover’s delight sprinkled with a sinister tale of murder. By Danielle Lancaster

60 Desert Adventure A remote three-week adventure from the desert to the ocean along the Connie Sue and Anne Beadell Highways. By Jessica Toll 63 Reader’s Trip Report When a promotion came up in Darwin, the Thompson family from Gippsland decided to make an adventure of it. By Nathan Thompson

66 REVIEW Mars Campers’ Soft Top Ranger By Megan Blandford

70 Campcraft Corner Utensil-free cooking. By Aris & Annette Dennis

74 GET OFF ROAD WITH PHIL Air Compressors By Phil Bianchi

76 DINE Love the Lamb By Julie Bishop and Regina Jones

78 GEAR TO GO Top new gear The pick of new gear, gadgets, guides and gizmos for campers. Compiled by Andrea Ferris

80 SUBSCRIBE AND WIN Subscribe or renew your Go Camping Australia & 4WD Adventures subscription and receive a FREE entry to WIN a Stockman Pod Trailer and Outdoor Connection Aria 2 Tent valued at $6494.

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THE ULTIMATE DRIVE HOLIDAY STARTS HERE. The Northern Territory is a place unlike any other and offers some incredible self-drive experiences. Whether you’re looking for an outback adventure or a relaxing drive through the tropics, you’ll find what you’re looking for in the NT. With incredible savings on Britz 4WD and 2WD vehicles in the NT, there’s no better time to book your trip than right now. Visit adventurealltheway.com.au or call 1800 113 033.

Words & images: Andrea Ferris

BUBBLIN’ BOOMI

hat’s boom-eye not boom-ee – just so you get with the local lingo as you order a cold one at the local pub. As readers of this column know, I’m a fan of ‘avin a go; anyone or anything that gets off its proverbial and makes the best of what it’s got. And Boomi is a great example. TOH and I first stumbled into Boomi in May last year after feeling simultaneously under and overwhelmed when arriving in Moree looking for a place to park the van and have a soak in an artesian hot pool. A quick check on WikiCamps revealed that Boomi – another hour north-west of Moree – had a caravan park and a hot pool and a bunch of warm and fuzzy comments. Boomi’s a border town in the Blues camp at State of Origin – by a whisker. The McIntyre River winds along the edge of town, which, when everyone’s at home, swells to about 75 souls. There’s a pub, the Pioneer Hotel, with typical pub-food fare, a playground, a showground, and a self-serve fuel container. But what I love about Boomi is ‘taking the waters’ as they say in olde English literature. The Boomi Community Co-operative run a small shop and food takeaway facility at the

Clockwise from top left: TOH rides the Boomi Nature Trail.  Boomi Caravan Park – far from the maddening crowds.  Boomi pool complex – with hot, bubbling artesian spa pool in the background.

pool, which has a 25-metre cold water pool, kids’ wading pool, and a hot-spa pool fuelled by the boiling Great Artesian Basin. Summer or winter it’s blissful to sit in the boiling, bubbling mineral water and soak your worries away. When it gets a bit hot, cool off in the cold pool and then jump right back in to warm up. The jets and water streaming out of the pipe are better than an expensive massage any day. Camping is steps away at the Co-op’s caravan park. Granted, the site is hard packed gravel rather than lush green grass, but who cares when the spa beckons. The amenities are new and scrupulously clean and each site has power and water. On the other side of the pool complex is a bit of grass if you’re in a tent, and a couple of unpowered sites. All for just $28.00 (stay and swim). On our second visit to Boomi, TOH and I had

the mountain bikes so we got up early and rode the 7.5-kilometre Boomi Nature Trail, which did require some walking in the sandy sections. The trail winds through some peaceful woodland typical of the area. The trees are labelled and with brochure in hand from the pool shop, it’s a great way to get to know the flora and fauna of the district. Stop off at the cemetery to get an idea just how tough the early pioneers did it when establishing the area. Boomi is a fabulous example of what’s just off the well-trod track if you’re prepared to step out there, and proof that the pioneer spirit of community is still well and truly alive and kicking. Happy Camping.  Andrea Ferris, Editor andrea@vinkpub.com www.gocampingaustralia.com.au

Find us on Facebook

& 4WD ADVENTURES Publisher Michael Vink

Now you don’t have to wait weeks for the next edition of Go Camping Australia & 4WD Adventures to get the latest camping news, stories and offers from around Australia. Head to our Facebook page www.facebook.com/ GoCampingAustralia and join the camping community.

Contributors Phil Bianchi

Jill Harrison

Editor

Julie Bishop & Regina Jones

Danielle Harvey

Andrea Ferris E: andrea@vinkpub.com

Megan Blandford

Danielle Lancaster

Claudia Bouma

Monica McInnes

Advertising Manager

Jannene Cannard

Kara Murphy

Georgina Chapman T: (07) 3334 8007 E: georgina@vinkpub.com

Aris & Annette Dennis

Russ Ryan

Jennifer Ennion

Therese Sayers

Production Team Wendy Deng, Richard Locke, Jonathan Nevin, Jason Vasquez and Karen Belik

Karyn Fanous

Nathan Thompson

Andrea Ferris

Jessica Toll

FRONT COVER: Bruxner Park Flora Reserve, Coffs Coast. Photo courtesy of: Coffs Coast Tourism. Go Camping Australia & 4WD Adventures is distributed through newsagents and camping stores across Australia. Recommended retail price A$6.95. Annual subscription A$33 includes postage within Australia and GST. Distribution by Gordon and Gotch. Editorial and photographic contributions welcomed. Disks, transparencies and self-addressed stamped envelopes are required. The publisher takes no responsibility for the views expressed in articles or advertisements herein. The publisher could not possibly ensure that each advertisement published in the magazine complies with the Trade Practices Act. While every endeavour has been made to ensure complete accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions. Print Post approval No. 100000936.

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PUBLISHED BY VINK Publishing ABN 3107 478 5676 Bi-Monthly Head Office: 38–40 Fisher St, East Brisbane Q 4169 Postal: PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba Q 4102 T: (07) 3334 8000 F: (07) 3391 5118

News, Views & Events Devils Marbles gets free Wi-Fi Internet access is now available at one of the Territory’s most remote tourist locations with free Wi-Fi switched on at Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles), 105 km south of Tennant Creek. It is the third and last location in the rollout of a free Wi-Fi trial across Territory parks and reserves. Wangi Falls in Litchfield National Park was hooked up last October and Watarrka (Kings Canyon) went mobile in January. According to the NT Government, the free Wi-Fi enables tourists and Territorians to instantly upload their happy snaps from these spectacular landmarks to a world-wide audience, which promotes the NT.

Portable Butane Cooker Ban Up to 31 models of butane gas cookers have been withdrawn from sale because they do not meet Australian Standards, and retailers in NSW should no longer be stocking or selling them. Testing has revealed 84% had a fault with the shut-off valves posing a risk of overheating and explosion. NSW Fair Trading has advised owners to stop using them and dispose of them in a safe manner with the butane cylinders disposed of through an appropriate community waste or recycling centre. For more information call 13 32 20 and for a list of affected product names and model numbers visit www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au

Above: A banned butane cooker.

Photo: Julie Bishop

Bushcraft is Back! We welcome our new bushcraft experts Aris and Annette Dennis from NSW. Passionate about everything outdoors, this bright young couple study traditional bushcraft and look forward to sharing their expertise in their new column, Campcraft Corner (featuring in this issue). Photo: Tourism NT

WA Caravan and camping regulation changes Amendments to the Western Australian Caravan and Camping Ground Act (1995) Regulations (1997) are now in effect. The changes allow for more nature-based parks throughout WA, increasing the availability of small-scale tourist accommodation in a natural landscape. To find out more, visit www.dpaw.wa.gov.au New Cape York Visitor Guide The Cape York Visitor Guide has been revised, rewritten and extended to 96 pages by Tourism Cape York and includes some new sections and town maps. The guide will feature on the Drive North Queensland stand in Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane caravan and camping shows.

Cape York Tropical

NOW FEATURING TOWN MAPS FOR CAPE YORK COMMUNITIES

North Queensland Epic by nature

Epic by Nature

www.TourismCapeYork.com

BLOOMFIELD • PALMER RIVER • LAKELAND • LAURA COEN • IRON RANGE • COOKTOWN • • WESTERN CAPE HOPE VALE • NORTHERN PENINSU LA AREA • TORRES STRAIT

Medical Assistance for Travellers at Broken Hill The recently opened Clive Bishop Medical Centre in Broken Hill is staffed by a GP, a registrar and a nurse and offers state-of-the-art facilities providing a range of medical services for outback travellers. Most services are bulk-billed and it’s open from 9.00 am to 5.00 pm Monday to Friday. For appointments phone (08) 8080 3780. The centre is situated at the RFDS Base on Airport Road, which is also home to the Bruce Langford Visitor Centre and shop. Kakadu Fees rise in 2016 Kakadu will introduce a strategic new fee structure in 2016 for interstate and international visitors. From 1 April 2016, a wet season 7-day pass to Kakadu will cost $25 per adult, and in the dry season the cost will be $40. There will be a 10% discount for all tickets bought online. Kakadu will offer a new 25% discount for pensioners, seniors, disabled people and their carers. Fees for children (aged 5-15) are half the adult rate. A new family pass at a flat rate for couples with two or more children ($65 in the wet season, $100 in the dry) will save families around 15%, with higher savings for those with more than two children.

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Events

QLD – Cloncurry Stockman’s Challenge and Campdraft - 8-12 July 2015 Performance horses, live entertainment, and trade stalls. www.currychallenge.com.au

WA – Destination Merredin – Wartime in the Wheatbelt – 8-11 May 2015 An annual weekend festival bringing the district’s heritage to life. www.destinationmerredin.com NSW – Trundle ABBA Festival – 2 May 2015 Australia’s only original ABBA festival held in the small town of Trundle in Central West NSW. Camping available at the showground. www.trundleabbafestival.com VIC – Wandiligong Nut Festival – 26 April 2015 The only nut festival in Australia. A lively market focussing on food and crafts, cooking demonstrations, information and activities. www.brightvic.com/ wandinutfestival

Views

Books Australia’s Best Camping – the most scenic campgrounds around Australia – naturally.

Kerryn Burgess Featuring a hand-picked collection of places to camp, this book highlights Australia’s extraordinary natural wonders and nature-based experiences specialising in places with little development and few crowds. Each place has a comprehensive description, an image or two and a useful guide that includes what to do, access, with young kids, be aware, and booking details. RRP $34.95 www.exploreaustralia.net.au

Driving Holidays around Australia Lee Atkinson Former contributor to Go Camping Australia, Lee Atkinson, has put together this guide to 40 of the best driving holiday routes in the country. Each chapter includes information on things to see and do, route maps, and a handy list of distances to help plan the trip, as well as lots of useful advice. Keep it in the car for when you’re out and about, or use it to plan your dream journey. RRP $39.95 www.exploreaustralia.net.au

More 2WD destinations I have purchased your magazine for quite a number of years and have enjoyed it immensely, but now I feel that you only specialise in camping and 4WD. We have now converted to a small motorhome because of our age. We have covered about 100,000 km around Oz by 4WD and camper trailer, but still want to get out and see more. I have often wished that you would regularly have places to visit that suit 2WD. Your magazine is one of the best but if you expanded it to cover 2WD it would be a complete coverage. As a suggestion, all your articles should have whether it’s camping (walk in) or 4WD or whether it can be accessed by 2WD. A Light, Silverdale, NSW Thanks for your feedback. We do try to include an equal amount of destinations that are easily accessible by 2WD as 4WD as we know that there are many readers that tow a caravan and use a motorhome. We’ve taken your suggestion on board and from this issue have included an ‘Access’ guide in each Fact File. Ed.

Keeping it Simple, New recipes from the Caravan Chef Eva Stovern Eva expands on her quintessential list of 30 pantry ingredients to offer an even bigger range of delicious and healthy recipes that are easy to prepare and need only a camp chair and an amazing sunset to accompany them. RRP $29.95 www.exploreaustralia.net.au

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Through my

Eyes

Photography and words: Danielle Harvey

Petrichor (n): A pleasant smell that frequently accompanies the first rain after a long period of warm, dry weather.

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Had I been told 20 years ago that my life would revolve around the elements, I would never have believed it. In the far eastern wheat-belt of Western Australia, after what seems likes endless dry seasons, the shire’s motto, ‘Good Country for Hardy People’ has never rung truer. I have watched many people leave for (literally) greener pastures. Some people have had their hand forced, while others are just weary and have lost heart. For farmers, nothing is more exciting than watching the show Mother Nature puts on in anticipation of a drop of rain. And that drop of rain can be the difference between carting water every day for your stock, buying hay, and the decision to stay or leave. So much can change in the space of one day when Mother Nature decides to give some decent rain. In two days last year we had half of our total 2014 rainfall. A mere two days, but a huge impact on our business, our community and our future. Would I change what we do? No! Where else is there so many photo opportunities right out the front door.

Danielle Harvey Facebook: Danielle Harvey Photography Instagram: danielleharvey68

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Rainforest From the

Reef

to the

Words: Karyn Fanous

giant crocodile’s head, jaws agape, provides a greeting on approach to the Daintree River crossing. It ’s the striking centre-piece of a river cruise company, but also serves as a warning for the journey into the wilderness of Tropical North Queensland.

Dazzling Daintree With much anticipation and excitement we crossed the Daintree River on the car ferry and found ourselves in the famed Cape Tribulation section of the Daintree National Park with its misty rainforestcloaked mountains sweeping down to stunning tropical beaches. Surrounded by towering pre-historic rainforest; its dense and tangled beauty protecting weird and wonderful creatures. Camping in the Daintree allows you to experience the splendour of the rainforest and the superlative natural beauty of the Great Barrier Reef. Our favourite location

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Immerse yourself in the lush beauty of the ancient Daintree rainforest and the tropical colours of the Great Barrier Reef.

is Cape Trib Camping, right next to Myall Beach south of Cape Tribulation. We commented to a friendly reception staff member that we were surprised it had rained so torrentially that we thought we would float away during our winter ‘dry season’ stay. She replied, ‘The only seasons in the Daintree are the ‘wet season’ and the ‘wetter season’!’ Apparently the Daintree region has one of the wettest climates in Australia, with Cape Tribulation’s annual rainfall around 4.5 metres! This amazing region is easy to explore on a range of day trips. As you drive take note of the roadside cassowary warning signs. Slow down and drive carefully, as vehicle traffic is a major cause of cassowary deaths. The endangered southern cassowary is considered a keystone species because they are vital for the survival of more than 150 rainforest plant species. They are the only animal capable of distributing the seeds of many

of the large-fruited trees by swallowing them whole and passing them unharmed, ready to germinate. Cape Tribulation (Kulki) is known as the place where ‘the rainforest meets the reef’, as this is one of the Daintree’s closest points to the Great Barrier Reef. Short walks from the picnic area take you to beautiful Cape Tribulation Beach, Myall Beach and a lookout on the cape itself. In 1770, Lieutenant James Cook named Cape Tribulation: ‘ … because here began all our troubles.’ He was sailing the Endeavour up the east coast of Australia to chart the coastline, when, in the evening of June 11th, he struck a reef forty kilometres to the north-east of the cape. The award winning Daintree Discovery Centre, ten kilometres north of the Daintree River, enables visitors to really experience the rainforest with its interpretive boardwalks, aerial walkways and a 23-metre canopy tower. We learnt so much about the

Clockwise from far left: The famous Cape Tribulation. Photo: Karyn Fanous.  We were thrilled to see humpback whales on our trip to the reef Photo: Karyn Fanous.  Typical Daintree: dense, lush rainforest at the Discovery Centre. Photo: Joseph Fanous.  Delicious exotic fruit tasted during our Cape Tribulation Exotic Fruit Tasting Tour. Photo: Karyn Fanous.

As the oldest intact lowland tropical rainforest in the world, the Daintree is thought to be between 110 – 200 million years old; between six and ten times older than the Amazon rainforest. It is part of the World Heritage-listed Wet Tropics of North Queensland, which stretches from Townsville in the south to Cooktown in the north, and is the largest continuous rainforest wilderness in Australia. The Daintree National Park is the most bio-diverse region in Australia and one of the world’s most ecologically-rich environments. It is a vital habitat for rare, threatened and endangered species. Most of the world’s first flowering plant families are found here. This is a pristine, living museum of how the world once was, home to ancient plant and animal species. The park is divided into two parts: the Mossman Gorge section, north-west from the nearby town of Mossman, and the smaller Cape Tribulation section lining the coast to the north and south of Cape Tribulation. It is one of a few places in the world where rainforest meets a coral reef, and is the only place where two World Heritage areas exist side by side, both majestic and unsurpassed in biological significance. The emerald green of the Daintree rainforest meeting the sparkling blue of the Great Barrier Reef is truly spectacular.

uniqueness of this very special part of the world and were pleased to see the spikey and colourful Boyd’s forest dragon (lizard) here. There are a number of short boardwalks (all take around 45 minutes) that make exploring the exquisite rainforest easy. Jindalba is a beautiful walk through tropical lowland rainforest following a fern-edged creek. You are likely to see giant blue cassowary plums scattered on the ground amongst the trees. We were thrilled to see cassowaries on this walk. The Marrdja Botanical Walk has a great variety of rainforest plants and enables the enjoyment of the mangroves without getting muddy feet. Dubuji is a walk through lowland rainforest, swamps and mangroves, with signs explaining the survival strategies used by rainforest plants and animals. If a long walk is more your style, the Mount Sorrow Ridge Trail is a strenuous full-day walk that leads to a lookout

with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Be careful not to touch the stinging trees that are found alongside many of the tracks. They have distinctively large heartshaped leaves with serrated edges that deliver a very painful sting if touched. For a cool treat it’s difficult not to enjoy a chocolate pudding fruit ice cream, amongst others, at the Daintree Ice Cream Company. Its magnificent gardens are filled with spectacular tropical flowers that attract the famous iridescent blue Ulysses butterfly. An exhilarating way to explore the Daintree from a totally different perspective is on a jungle surfing canopy tour with Jungle Adventures Cape Tribulation. An instructor guides you along a series of five flying foxes that zoom through the rainforest canopy. This is definitely a tour with a difference! For those with adventurous taste buds, Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm tasting tour

should not be missed. You’ll learn about and taste seasonal exotic fruit, such as soursop, mangosteen, star fruit and custard apple, and be taken on a guided tour of the fruit farm. A number of operators offer cruises on the Daintree River to spot stunning birdlife as well as crocodiles. You’ll never forget the first time you see a giant estuarine crocodile in the wild. Their massive teeth and bodies will convince you to keep well away from the water in the tropics. Taking a snorkelling trip out to the Great Barrier Reef from Cape Trib Camping or Port Douglas is a must. Based at the campground, Ocean Safari operates halfday snorkelling trips to the nearby inner reef, while numerous larger boats travel from Port Douglas to the outer reef. You’ll see lots of rainbow-coloured reef fish, coral, sea fans and clams. You may even be lucky enough to see, as we did, the acrobatic displays of humpback whales during winter. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Magical Mossman palm-fringed golden beaches, and the ce Saibai I Darn an ntr Sunday morning markets Nearby, magnificent Mossman Gorge is (Erubley rainforest. The E ) I TORRES STRAIT where the river tumbles over and around near the river mouth are also a highlight. 200 Mabuiag I making it a delightful huge granite boulders All year round, Murray Islands Port’s big game, reef (Mulgra I Moa placeBadu to swim inve)crystal clear(Clar pools. and estuary fishing is considered first ke) I Two ai) I rupto a walking trails provide access the lush class. Fishing boats and tours are readily N n( or rainforest. Dreamtime available. Sugar Wharf, at the mouth of the Thursday Island walks offer visitors Cape York Of Wales walks lead guided Prince rainforest by Kuku inlet, is a good spot to wet a line. (Muralag) I UR Newcastle Bay VO Yalanji Aboriginal people, for whom the A On the southern outskirts of Port is the E E ND Bamaga region is their traditional country. award winning Wildlife Habitat that includes Jardine Janbal Art Gallery, inR the town of the Wet Tropics Visitor Information Centre. Mossman, is known for its painted Yiki There is a range of tropical creatures, People, Owl Guardians of the Night, andLandingsuch as cassowaries, tree kangaroos and Captain Billy Shelburne R its Aboriginal art workshops, and is well n ty crocodiles, to get ‘up close’ to 20 or00 enjoy Bay Port Musgrave lhu Du Shelburne Bay Cape Gren worth a visit. ville ‘Breakfast with the Birds’ or ‘Lunch with Bramwell We the Lorikeets’. Picturesque Port nl o Douglas Temple Bay ck There are numerous fabulous dining Luscious Port Douglas isRiva gorgeous er Andoom Duyfken Point Weymouth Bay options in Port. One of our favourites is the tropical town with a charming combination Weipa Batavia Downs SS BAY Tin Shed that has a deck right on the Dickson ofALBATRO sophistication and relaxed village life. Lockh art River Lloyd Bay Cape Direction Inlet at sunset. With the sky awash with colour Set beside the Coral Sea, Port Douglas Mt Carter and reflected in the calm waters of the inlet, was established in 1877 Merlun as aa port665for the G R way to end the day. this is a perfect Rive Hodgkinson Aurukun River goldfields and was r EA C oe The magnificent named by the thenr Queensland Premier, n TDaintree rainforest and e Rokeby Ar c h the spectacular Great Barrier Reef are John Douglas. CAPE YORK Cape Keerweer absolutely enthralling. How fortunate we ‘Port’, as the locals affectionately call up Coen Gro PENINSULA ers d it, is a magnificent location from which PRIN areCESS that these tropical jewels have been in Cape Melville CHAR LOTT Rof E iv to experience the splendours the reef, preserved for us and future generations.  er Yarraden oy d BAY ST

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A thrilling jungle surfing tour through the Daintree rainforest canopy. Photo: James Hunter.  Fortunately this croc was on the opposite side of Myall Creek, just south of Cape Trib Camping. Photo: Joseph Fanous.

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ld Cays When to go May – September has lower temperatures and rainfall, but the climate is still hot, d igh humid and wet. Peak tourist season is Mission Beach Fli nders Reefs C O U to N T camp RY Tully Dunk Island Mount Surprise Gilbert River Croydon July – August. Where Cape Trib Camping Rive Rockingham Bay r October – November is a good time to visit Meadowbank Ya p Noah Beach Campground, Georgetown pa r Cardwell to beautiful owns Grassy campsites sit adjacent Hinchinbroo Wondoola RA R ask Isl the k in ansea Daintree National Park d is usually calm and humidity e R Abe rgowriearound to Einasleigh iv e Claraville Forsayth rd sweeps Myall Beach which r Halifax Hill Bu Cl and visitor numbers are relatively low. ar Fifteen shady campsites are set 50 m Pa lm Isla nd s a Esmeralda Cape Tribulation in the north. From Iffley Inghhere, am Palm Island Ri G Robinhood Kidston Gre ve from the beach. Facilities include toilets at Pa lm Island Kangaro RE BambarooFacilities r Hills cape. you can walk right toothe HALIFAX BAY Further information Cl Bairds Balgal Bea ch nvale Paluma A on and non-drinking water. As fires areTable notMount include Gree Beach d toilets, showers, camp kitchen, n cu T and Daintree Tourism Port Douglas a Mt Hali l 750 fax Lyndhurst ush Magnetic rry permitted you’ll need a stove for cooking B Isla 106 nd 3 A er barbeques, powered sites and drinking Canobie v i www.visitportdouglasdaintree.com.au N R TOWNSVILLE Deeragun and rubbish bags. And, don’t forget G E Bow 4099 Green Bay water. The Numil Downs 4588 ecampground has its own Mt Elliot or (07)ling Waitan B Clark Giru Chudleigh Park Bluff Dow ns 1235 A the insect repellent. Feesr are charged Wando Valecentre ay B t Wo information with tour bookings r ods Ay toc r R k a e t Hom v e Hill Saxby i R Department of National Parks, R Min gela R i for camping permits, which must be vea croc in IE available. We were thrilled to see r Clare Saxby Downs Dalgonally Recreation, Sport and Racing Mount Sturgeon R Ab R bo t Po int Gum lu booked in advance. There is a maximum sland I the wild in the just to the south, but r Balf e Mtcreek Stew es st e art Ravenswood Bowen Glouc Bald Hill Creek Mt Abbot an Islan d www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks Lolworth m 997 y a Burlei gh Cha H rters 689 we were very pleased that it was on the stay of seven consecutive nights. The 1056 Homestead Flin Towers Whitsunday Dalbeg Gr Julia Creek Gilliat spe Cloncurry campground Air rs pa lie may bedeinaccessible Be m ach opposite bank. The Mossman Gorge Centre Whitsunday Isl oup Ca Pentland and Mount Richmond r Pro Ha ser mi Wam pin C lto Col bian e Rav n lins a Isla ens ville LA Cr e wood nd Nelia following heavy www.mossmangorge.com.au e e rain. RK RivHughendenwww.capetribcamping.com.au Maxw k Prair elton Lin ie de Mt Norna man Group Re Torre ns Creek 415 Midge Point p u l or (07) 4098 0077 www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks orDa(07) 4099R 7000 CUMBERL Lake s

Karumba

Taking place in three iconic outback locations, the Simpson Desert Racing Carnival is one of western Queensland’s greatest racing events and is just around the corner. The keynote event, the legendary BIRDSVILLE RACES, attracts approximately 7000 people to the remote settlement that usually has a population of only 115. The Birdsville Cup is held on the ﬁrst Saturday of September each year and has been run almost every year since 1882. The preceding weekend, the last weekend in August, is the familyorientated BETOOTA RACES, which are affectionately known as ‘the outback’s friendliest races’. The now ghost town of Betoota comes alive when hundreds of outback travellers descend on the abandoned town by car, bus or plane to watch a dusty ‘fashions on the ﬁeld’, dance to the live entertainment and mingle with a diverse crowd of outback locals and travelling city slickers.

Finally, the BEDOURIE RACES AND RODEO are held on the 11th and 12th of September along with the BEDOURIE UTE AND TRAVELLERS’ MUSTER. Bedourie, an oasis on the edge of the Simpson Desert, is a unique travellers’ destination in its own right and the Ute and Travellers’ Muster attracts competitors from all over Australia, with Tasmanians often taking out the ‘vehicle furthest from home’ category. This year, the Simpson Desert Racing Carnival is set to be even bigger than usual with the addition of some exciting events and special guests. To attend all three unique race meets is an epic journey through magnificent landscape and filled with colourful characters and first-class outback racing. For more information, contact info@diamantina.qld.gov.au

into our

one shot at a time Words: Monica McInnes

On the eve of the 100th anniversary of Anzac Day, Monica McInnes went on a mission to discover more about defending Australia at Point Nepean.

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could have been forgiven for thinking I had been transported to the sheer cliffs, sandy beaches and calm waters that have become synonymous with Australia’s national identity – Anzac Cove. But I hadn’t even left Australia. I was at Point Nepean on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, a little over ninety minutes’ drive from Melbourne’s CBD. Point Nepean, a stunningly beautiful 560-hectare national park on the very tip of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula, has played a pivotal role in shaping Australia’s history. The Boonwurrung people first occupied this land using the coastline and shellfish for their survival. Then, during Victoria’s early white settlement and gold rush, Melbourne was considered a high-risk target for attack by a foreign power. So, in the late 1800s, Fort Nepean, along with other nearby fortifications at Queenscliff, was established to protect Melbourne, Port Phillip Bay and Victoria as a whole. Further back along Point Nepean, a major Victorian quarantine station was established in 1852 and was operational for 127 years before it closed down in 1979. More recently, the quarantine buildings were used for an Army Officer Cadet School (1952 – 1985), the School of Army Health (1985 – 1998) and in 1999, as accommodation for Kosovo refugees.

Some people may know Point Nepean as the location from where the former prime minister Harold Holt disappeared in December 1967, sparking the biggest search for a missing individual in Australia. There is a memorial near Cheviot Hill, which overlooks the narrow Cheviot Beach on the Bass Strait where the waves crash into the rocks and cliffs below. But it’s the military history at Point Nepean that drew me to explore this rugged landscape, complete with remnants of tunnels, bunkers, gun emplacements, a m m unitio n ro o ms a m o ng oth e r military relics. Point Nepean and its installations of Fort Nepean, Fort Pearce, Pearce Barracks, Eagles Nest and Cheviot Hill, and Point Lonsdale across the heads at Queenscliff, made Port Phillip the most heavily defended port in the Southern Hemisphere. During its operational service between 1880 and 1945, Point Nepean displayed great artillery engineering with the use of four different types of guns including muzzle loading guns, disappearing guns, quick firing guns and six-inch Mark VII guns. It is perhaps the disappearing guns and Fort Nepean and Eagles Nest that exemplify both the engineering and stealthlike capabilities of the military at that time. From low beneath the ground, a hydraulics system would raise the gun up to fire and the recoil of the shot would force the gun back down to safety. Hidden away from view of the enemy, this weapon system provided safety to personnel and the gun itself. In 1910, the disappearing guns – disappeared. At Eagles Nest they were buried and only recently found and visitors can see what is left of the gun emplacement today. At Fort Nepean they were replaced with six-inch Mark VII guns, which had an approximate range of 12.5 kilometres. And, this was the draw card for our ‘mission’ to Point Nepean. Before embarking on this mission we armed ourselves with plenty of water, sunscreen, snacks, hats, camera, and iPad. Yes, an iPad, to use the award-winning, mission critical Point Nepean National Park Audio Tour. The audio guide, which can be hired from the visitor information centre at Point Nepean, provided us with information about the various locations around the park and insight into the unique life and times of working at Point Nepean throughout its history. We also assessed the most effective means of transport in order to reach our destination. There are three options: walking, cycling (bike hire available at the

Clockwise from left: Looking down to what’s left of the engine house at the very tip of Fort Nepean. Photo: John Gollings.  HMAT Boorara, previously SS Pfalz leaving Port Melbourne on 10 May 1917. Photo courtesy of the Australian War Memorial PB0259.  Group portrait of the Number 6 Royal Australian Garrison Artillery, 3rd Military district who fired the first shot of the Great War. Photo courtesy of the Australian War Memorial A01185.

information centre) or shuttle bus. There are plenty of walking and cycling tracks throughout the park, but if you choose this mode of transport, stick to the path as there are some locations where unexploded ordnance (UXO) may still lie. The shuttle bus leaves from the carpark at Quarantine Station, does another pick-up at Gunners Cottage, from which point no further vehicular access is permitted, before it makes its way through to Fort Nepean. You can hop off and on the bus at the various stops along the 2.6-kilometre road. The shuttle bus operates every half hour between 10.30 am and 4.00 pm, and costs $10 per adult and $7.50 for a child or concession. With all our kit checked and in working order, we set off on the shuttle bus for Fort Nepean. While on board we overheard an elderly gentleman in a wheelchair retell stories of his time stationed at Fort Nepean. ‘If we had any time off we had to take the boat over to Queenscliff or hitch a lift into Sorrento,’ he recounted. With sweeping views of Bass Strait on our left and Port Phillip Bay on our right, it’s easy to understand the isolation associated with Point Nepean. Exiting the bus, the sound of waves crashing and the salty smell in the air enveloped our senses. We paused to take in the sheer beauty of the place and marvelled how the windswept Moonah trees, native to Point Nepean, were still standing as they lean over at such an angle they almost touch the ground. We could easily have sat longer enjoying the views, but we headed underground to explore the network of interconnected tunnels, ammunition rooms and lifts and, of course, several gun emplacements complete with shell remnants, gun stabilisation rings and viewing decks or observation posts to watch the ships toing and fro-ing around Port Phillip Bay and Bass Strait. One end of the first tunnel network exits to where a parade ground commanding panoramic views once stood.

As we walked aboveground back to the entrance of the tunnel system we came across two long, black cannons. These were the actual cannons from the six-inch Mark VII guns, one of which was fired as part of Australia’s WWI effort; more about that shortly. We followed the path and the steps down to a structure at the very tip of Point Nepean. It is from here that you can see the sheer cliffs and wonder if they could be like the cliffs of the Gallipoli peninsula. The structure at the bottom was the original engine room, complete with a distinctive mechanical smell lingering in the air long after the machines that powered the various installations and searchlights stood silent. This was also where long-gone defence personnel caught a boat to Queenscliff and a taste of ‘civilisation’. The audio guide recounts the story of Win Arlette who served at Fort Nepean during WWII with the Australian Women’s Army Service. She said that, depending on the roughness of the return boat trip, ‘the number of steps (to the barracks) varied from 117, 125, 175.’ We climbed steps out through the engine house to the main gun emplacement – number six – at Fort Nepean, where the very first shot of the First World War was fired. As we entered, an automatic audio story starts to play complete with sound effects and orders given on the day. It was like being in a time tunnel as we were transported back to that historic event, feeling the anxiety and anticipation of the gunners readying to fire. At 12.45 pm on 5 August 1914, Britain officially declared war on Germany. Just prior to the Declaration of War, German ship, SS Pfalz, was being loaded with coal at Victoria Dock in Melbourne. But the ship’s captain, anticipating the impending declaration, set sail before all the coal was aboard hoping he would pass through the heads and continue to the safety of South American shores. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Bridgewater

Colea mbally Manangatang Karoonda Underbool Ouyen Moulamein RIVERINA Tailem Lameroo Pinnaroo Bend Nyah West Murrayville Lake Tyrrell Lake Wa nganella o Swan Hill nc Alexandrina Patchewollock Ya M Jerilderie U Sea Lake Coonalpyn Wa kool RR Hopetoun Meningie Deniliquin Oak Lake Albacutya Barha m AY Woomelang Tintinara Kerang Finley Rainbow Mathoura To Be Birchip Cohuna cumw Lake Keith Hindmarsh Cobram Jeparit Clockwise from bottom left: NumurkaFort Bordertown View across Point looking Nhill h CharltoNepean Echuca towards n Wa rracknaPhoto: Kyabin bea l Pearce. Monica McInnes.  A wall ram Ru Kaniva Donald Dimboola Roc hes ter front of Gun Emplacement Six marking the exact Padthaway W WIMMERA We dde rburn St Arn Lacepede Bay Mu time ofaud whenIng the first shot of WWI was rtoaand date Goroke Horsham lewood SHEPPART ON ngarat Kingston SE fired. Photo: Monica McInnes. Ru shw One orthof these Nara coorte six-inch Mark VII gunDun cannons Wa Be BEfired NDIthe olly GOfirst shot Euroa of World War I. Photo: Monica McInnes. Ede nho pe Robe Stawell Balmoral Ca st lem aine h Penola Seymour Rocklands Ararat M a ry bo rou g Kyneton Reservoir La R Kilmore Alexandra Cast Bea Cole erto ufo Wil Da rain n rt laur yle e a sfo rd Millicent Dun keld GREA BALLARAT SUNB Mount Gambier Lake Bonney Hamilton URY tbridge Hurs Heales Cape Ban ks Lake Bolac Bacchus Marsh vill Wa rburto Penshurst MELTON Derrinallum Port Macdonnell G EE Heywood Mo rtla LO ke NG Getting there DISCOVER Pakenham Y PORT KoroitTerang Camperdown BAY the M11 PHILLIP Drouairn From Melbourne, follow Wi nch y elsea Portland d Ba ry W C r a Cob n den n b ourne M Colac L ai to the Mornington Peninsula,Porand tla O tF oe n i For O res t a Po ve n Cowes watch for the signs to Sorrento and MB Port Campbell Leonga A Y Lorne A a W T O N y Point Nepean Fo P RR 45 Apollo Bay Point Nepean. Allow an hour A and N Cape Otway W E R il l ST h E minutes, and two hours if you take the t P W o n Inv W more scenic route along the coastline. h ta ra If you are closer to Geelong, head to Wa Hop k

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Queenscliff and drive aboard Searoad Ferries for a 40-minute crossing of Port Phillip Bay to Sorrento. Services are daily on the hour between 7.00 am and 6.00 pm. For more information visit www.searoad.com.au

Westernport On the Westernport side of the Peninsula, which is actually the eastern side, there are a couple of other options for camping if you want to be away from the touristy areas on the southern peninsula. Try the Shoreham Foreshore Reserve or the Point Leo Foreshore Park and Reserve. Further information For more information about Point Nepean and to plan your pilgrimage to this historic place, check out these websites:

www.parks.vic.gov.au www.visitmorningtonpeninsula.org www.mornpen.vic.gov.au www.pointleo.com www.searoad.com.au www.bongotransit.com.au – for a unique way to explore the historic town of Queenscliff and continue your discovery of Australia’s military history of the area. You can also tour Sorrento on the back of a Bongo. They are new and the only place in Australia you can ride a Bongo. The driver is almost always a local and a great source of knowledge about the various sights along the way.

Rosebud is the largest of the three with a 10-kilometre stretch of shoreline, showers, toilets, a large playground for the kids, heaps of shade, a boat ramp

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Where to camp Camping at Point Nepean is prohibited, but with plenty of nearby camping grounds you are spoilt for choice on where to pitch the tent or unfurl the camper trailer. Here are a few to investigate.

When to go Visiting in spring and autumn would certainly mean missing the heat of the summer sun, or the cold winter days. However, whatever time of the year, be prepared with sunscreen, and cold and wet weather gear. The wind can be chilly off Bass Strait, and there isn’t too much shelter from either the wind or rain.

and barbeques. Rye is a two-kilometre Cape ckham stretch of beach as a Wi playground and features everything Kin like Rosebud. g Island BASS Currie While Sorrento is the smallest of the Grassy three, with only Sto a one-kilometre stretch kes Point of beach and no playground.ThFees ree Hufor mm ock I Hunter Island sI all three campgrounds start at $26 bin per b o night for a casual unpowered site in off-peak season.

wheel-drive.

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Mornington Peninsula Foreshore Camping There are three idyllic locations to camp along the foreshore of the famous Mornington Peninsula: Rosebud, Rye and Sorrento. Each are managed by the local council and bookings are required.

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Despite the speed at which SS Pfalz steamed towards the heads of Port Phillip, war was declared just minutes before she reached the relative safety of the open seas. Personnel at Fort Nepean were ordered to ensure the ship did not leave the heads. Signal flags were raised ordering the ship to stop, but the captain did not acknowledge the command. The artillery commander of the gun emplacement, Lt Col. Moreton Williams had no option but to give the order to fire a single warning shot across her bow. The enemy ship then heeded the warning shot and was quickly escorted back to port under heavily armed guard. After the crew was arrested, a search of the ship revealed four-inch guns mounted to metal plates drilled under the deck. Having seized the vessel, the Royal Australian Navy later renamed her HMAT Boorara and used her as a troop carrier during the war. As the audio falls silent the peace and tranquility of today superimposes itself on the ghosts of the past. Incredibly, of the millions of shots fired during World War I, it was from this unassuming place in Australia’s south, that the very first shot of the war was fired just minutes after Britain declared war on Germany. It was also the first and only shot fired from Australian soil during the Great War. Twenty-five years later, on 4 September 1939, it was from here the first Australian shot of the Second World War was fired. There is plenty more to see and learn about Australia’s military history at Point Nepean. Informative signs dot the ruins and there is little double up in the iPad audio tour, making it well worth downloading or hiring before setting off to explore. As our day concluded, we took our seats on the last shuttle bus of the day and reflected on all we had seen and learned about Australia’s wartime legacy. It might not be Anzac Cove, but it is well worth the visit. No passport required. 

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Coffs Coast Rivers, Reef and Rainforest

A piece of paradise on the east coast of Australia offering a spectacular backdrop of enviable activities, holiday parks to tempt any camper and arguably the best climate in Australia.

o explore the 75-kilometre stretch of Solitary Islands Marine Park and discover ancient World Heritage-listed rainforest landscapes where dinosaurs once roamed, we sent the Nesbit family (Adam and Linda and their daughters Summer and Emmie), avid Australian travellers, to find out why Coffs Coast is one of the most visited destinations for campers in NSW.

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Clockwise from left: Crystal Shower Falls, Dorrigo National Park.  The Coffs Harbour Marina and Muttonbird Island walkway.

The Setting Location is key; we plotted our course and it is the stunning setting and natural beauty of the area that tempts travellers to pull in, unhitch and stay-a-while. Coffs Harbour is known for its backdrop of golden sandy beaches, but it is the greater Coffs Coast region, the rainforests and mountain escarpments all within close proximity to the coast, that offered the most wonderful surprise. In addition to its accessibility, midway between Sydney and Brisbane, Coffs Coast ticked all of our boxes. With more than 30 holiday parks and state forest free camping areas – our biggest decision was where to stay. Summer and Emmie had the final say on day one as we motored into Park Beach Holiday Park. The backseat squeals of delight were a dead giveaway that the swimming pool slide, climbing tower and giant jumping pillow were going to get a workout that afternoon. With Coffs Harbour Marina, Muttonbird Island Nature Reserve and the patrolled sands of Park Beach on our doorstep, it was a good choice for a minimum of three nights to take in all the local sights. We set up camp with time to enjoy a swim in the waters of Coffs Creek where it meets the Pacific Ocean before the chorus of cicada sounds dimmed and the sky’s night lights were revealed. Now this is a holiday!

In And Out Of The Water One of the key holiday highlights is the enormous range of things to see and do all in the one place – 101 in total; as proven in the ‘101 Things to Do on Coffs Coast’ guidebook and Coffs Coast travel app, which is a great road trip resource providing insight into the best trails and drives and mapping all of our attractions. But it also doubles as a kids’ travel tool as they sift and select their favourite activities that became the basis of our stay. Despite the ‘bucket list’ of selected activity requests, we did experience 14 attractions in total – from scuba diving with turtles and grey nurse sharks off South Solitary Island to bird watching with the kids off Urunga boardwalk at sunset. Best of all, it was feeding the penguins, meeting Plugga the rescued turtle, watching Bucky and Zippy wave their fins and getting some fishy kisses from the seals at Dolphin Marine Magic. Seeing a baby dolphin was a hit on the cuteness scale and anchored the marine park as the girls’ favourite activity during our stay. The opportunity to mix tranquil moments was the focus of our holiday so we included a picnic at Moonee Beach bordering the nature reserve, swimming in waterholes at Platypus Flat and a wildlife canoe tour on the Bellinger River. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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A Natural Wonderland Everyone, including nature lovers, will appreciate Coffs Coast’s magical backdrop with more than 20 national parks, forests and reserves that sit alongside the largest marine park in the state. The stunning Dorrigo National Park and Crystal Shower Falls is one of the most visited in Australia and offers World Heritage-listed rainforests millions of years in the making, whilst the newly developed Forest Sky Pier in Orara East State Forest provides a 22-metre cantilevered platform over the forest canopy. Just 10 minutes’ drive from the city centre up through the regions’ signature banana plantations and avocado groves, the sk y pier reveals a spectacular coastline view stretching to the horizon, accompanied by easy bushwalking trails through the Bruxner Park Flora Reserve. We chose the 45-minute rainforest loop walk through a small part of the 407-hectare dense eucalypt forest before enjoying the panoramic vista from the nearby Korora Lookout.

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Driving Me Crazy Naturally, there are a host of driving routes, walking tracks and paths giving access to the mountains, rivers and rainforest, and meandering this beautiful coastline drove us crazy with tempting trails at every turn. With names like ‘world heritage wanderings’, ‘valley escapes’ and ‘hinterland hideaways’, how could we not want to venture off the tourist trail? Three in particular took our fancy including the Waterfall Way scenic drive up through Bellingen to Dorrigo – voted in the top three scenic drives in Australia, cycling the loop trail around Coffs Creek in Coffs Harbour, and the scenic route west through green pastures and hinterland villages to Platypus Flat via Cascade. Aside from the designated camping spots on Coffs Coast we opted for a free camping experience in the bush. It was recommended we visit Mobong Falls in Wild Cattle Creek State Forest, an hour or so west of Coffs Harbour. There are no facilities so we gathered provisions for an overnight stay at Moses Rock Road near the sleepy town of Cascade.

We arrived at the Mobong picnic area to hike the five-kilometre Mobong walking track, which revealed an area steeped in logging history; a thriving timber industry that took place with tramways transporting old carts loaded with logs. Further on, crystal clear waters follow the gentle path of Mobong Creek traversing waterfalls and resting in serene pools. As the girls searched for frogs that inhabit the leaf-littered forest floor, we took in the sanctity of our surroundings with nothing in earshot except the distant chorusing of a local lyrebird. Our connection with nature continued as we headed deeper into the wilderness to explore the famous Nymboida River at Platypus Flat where ancient tallowood and brushbox trees reside. The towering blue gums and river oaks perch alongside quiet swimming holes interspersed with raging waters further downstream. It is a charming spot to visit complete with soaring granite cliff faces and a grassy clearing patrolled by huge goannas. We went wildlife spotting, in particular for the duck-billed mammal for which the area is

Clockwise from far left: Adam and Emmie bushwalking.  Forest Sky Pier, Sealy Lookout.  Scuba diving in the South Solitary Islands Marine Park.  Picnic at Moonee Beach.  Summer and Emmie at the Big Banana.  Bucky and Zippy at Dolphin Marine Magic.

known. However, by the end of the day, our platypus finding remained elusive – just like the animal itself. Adventure Playground The young (and young at heart) love this adventure playground, and capturing my husband’s attention was a list as long as his arm of soft adventure and adrenalin-fuelled fun: the highest skydiving in Australia, white-water rafting down the grade three and four rapids of the Nymboida River, and scuba diving with sharks were amongst the selection, the latter being the winning choice. The Solitary Islands Marine Park is a 71,000-hectare protected marine zone that more than 500 species of fish call home. Adam’s day within the island’s sanctuary included two dives; the first was called ‘fish soup’ with sea anemones and a plethora of marine life, including a couple of turtles, and the second was with the gentle grey nurse sharks. Meanwhile, the girls and I took part in quieter adventures including a section of the new 67-kilometre Solitary Islands Coastal

Walk that overlooks the Pacific Ocean. The path led us in and around Muttonbird Island with its migrating wedge-tailed shearwaters that fly in each year all the way from the Philippines. Villages, Boutiques & Cafes Pockets of delightfulness dot the region and we were enchanted to find some cute and quirky villages. The fig-tree-lined seaside village of Sawtell, just ten minutes south of Coffs Harbour, is where you’ll find charming cafes such as Treeo or Split for breakfast and Mothers Milk, the Lime and Mexican Burrito Bar or the new Francs to tempt us to make a dinner reservation. A little further south is the boardwalk and lagoon area of Urunga with flocks of birdlife, ideal to visit late in the afternoon. The Coffs Coast’s creative hub is Bellingen, which is another 15 minutes’ drive west. Here, the Butter Factory and historical main street set the scene for all types of artists, festivals and crafts, while also offering some secret little shopping gems and boutiques. A pleasant 20-minute drive west of Coffs Harbour through farmland and

rolling hills led us to the charming town of Coramba with its country pub and swimming hole, while a journey to the northern beaches past Moonee and along the new A1 motorway takes in the sights of Woolgoolga, known for its Indian Sikh community. Here, we loved the tasty Cajun spiced swordfish with wasabi aioli for lunch at White Salt. Coffs Harbour itself has its own little boutiques and café zones particularly at The Jetty, The Promenade and the newly developed Coffs Central. CreAsian, Grumpy’s ginger beer lounge and Mangrove Jacks were faves with our family. With Coffs Harbour as the hub, whatever direction we took, north, west or south, there was a delightful mix of relaxation, activity choices, remoteness and closeness to nature to keep us entertained for a week. There are many experiences that we simply ran out of time to enjoy. Never to be forgotten though, as they are already stored under ‘favourites’ in the Coffs Coast travel app ready for our return trip.  GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Land Beardies The

of the

The Old Grafton Road takes adventurers through an unspoilt landscape.

‘In the stillness of the deserted valley you may hear the snap of the reins on a Cobb and Co coach team, the thud of a timber getter’s axe or the cry of the bullocky hauling down the track to the Clarence River.’ Peter Matthew. Words: Russ Ryan. Images: Russ Ryan & Trish Melody

e started our search for the Old Grafton Road in the historical town of Glen Innes, set among rolling hills on the northern tablelands of New South Wales at an elevation of 1075 metres. It gets pretty chilly in the winter time here, so be sure to pack woolly socks and jumpers. The rolling hills of the northern tablelands are also home to many national parks where outdoor enthusiasts and bushwalkers will feel right at home. Glen Innes, or land of the beardies as it’s also known, is the Celtic capital of Australia because of the large numbers of Scots and Irish that settled in this cool part of Australia. This historic country was the scene of many famous bushranger activities including that of the famous Captain Thunderbolt. Frederick Wordsworth Ward aka Captain Thunderbolt was famous for 26 |

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escaping from Cockatoo Island in Sydney and for his reputation as the ‘gentleman’ bushranger. He also holds the crown for the bushranger that roamed for the longest time in nineteenth-century Australian history. However, the real attraction for fourwheel-drive owners in the area is tackling the historic 128-kilometre Old Grafton Road. Starting 35 kilometres east of Glen Innes, the road heads south off the Gwydir Highway and passes through some outstanding mountain and riverside scenery all the way to Grafton (of course!). This track was the main access road for horse drawn carriages to the east coast since 1887. Before tackling the track visit the tourist office in Glen Innes (or Grafton if coming from the other direction) where good information on the region and a map of the track is available. The first 36 kilometres of the road is narrow blacktop making its way past

picturesque farmhouses and bushland. It then merges with the 128-kilometre dirt track where it pays to keep a careful eye out for forestry vehicles as there isn’t much room to manoeuvre. Before long the Boyd River appears and the track follows its course with spectacular scenery. As you drive along, the scenery becomes even lovelier and it isn’t long before a series of hairpin bends begin to keep the driver’s attention. Along the way there are a number of idyllic spots for picnics and swimming. One of these is the Mann River Nature Reserve where fireplaces, tables and toilets make a pleasant stopover for a bit of lunch. Another stop worth checking out is Newton Boyd at the base of the Great Dividing Range. This amazing valley has five major rivers flowing through it that include the Mann, Nymboida, Boyd, Henry and the Orara. Mobs of kangaroos and wallabies run in all directions along and across the track and

Clockwise from far left: We had the ultimate riverside campsite all to ourselves.  You’re never too young to go camping.  It’s hard to beat the serenity of the river flowing right past your campsite.  The curious Kookaburra hanging around our campsite.  Nothing like a good hearty breakfast when there’s a chill in the air.

the birdlife is plentiful with an abundance of coloured parrots, lorikeets and corellas making the area their home. About halfway along the track is a 20-metre tunnel that was carved between 1866-1868 through solid rock by convicts. It is believed to have been hand hewn; although it was predominantly blasted with ‘black powder’ and scaled back with basic hand tools. It’s not difficult to imagine the sweat and hardship that went into building this structure as you drive through it. After taking some pictures of the tunnel we climbed aboard the Land Rover for another eight kilometres to the abandoned settlement of Dalmorton. Approaching this deserted ghost town you really feel like you’re driving back in time into this once bustling village. All that remains are some ruins in the paddocks where cattle now graze amidst the attractive scenery and some relatively well-preserved buildings. This original bush track through Dalmorton was cut by wool haulers in the early 1840s. Using convict labour, a proper road was built in the 1860s. Gold was found in 1861 following the arrival of the cattle farmers and timber cutters in the 1840s, which led to a couple of hundred people moving to Dalmorton at the height of its gold rush. The town flourished for a while;

well at least until the gold ran out and the main industry turned to timber before that also petered out. Now, just a couple of old buildings remain, but the echoes of the past still resound. It’s hard to believe that during the boom times all those years ago Dalmorton had four stores, a post office, school, butchers, two bakers, a police station, a blacksmith shop, a coach station, and five hotels! The famous Cobb & Co was an Australian transport service that ran twice weekly from Glen Innes through Dalmorton and on to Grafton carrying supplies, mail and passengers. The Cobb & Co coaches were the principal means of transport along this route for the colonies of Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria and was vital for settlers. There are a couple of options to camp along the Old Grafton Road and we chose to stay along the banks of the Boyd River, but you can also camp on a large grassy area just 1.5 kilometres from Dalmorton across the bridge. We parked right on the banks of the river and, thanks to our roof top tent, we were set up in no time and the trusty Dutch oven was retrieved. This has to be one of our favourite pieces of camping equipment having served us very well over the years. After

making quick, but always well received, hot bread it was on to the main course that included some beef, vegetables, and roasted potatoes. After dinner we sat around our well-fuelled fire as it was fairly chilly. The following morning we prepared for a short drive along the last leg of the Old Grafton Road. After packing up we continued through the Gibraltar Ranges, which is more than two-thirds along the journey. There’s a war monument to stop and see that was built in memory of the diggers lost in World War I. Historians recall how more than 30 men left Newton Boyd farms to enlist in the Great War and just one man returned - only to be killed in a rockslide in what is now known as Laceys Gully. The site is approximately seven kilometres from the bridge. The next stop is Buccarumbi, which is 91 kilometres from the Pacific Highway. The original bridge was ruined by flood so the crossing is a low-level bridge that sits beside the remains of its stricken predecessor at the picturesque junction of the Nymboida and Boyd Rivers. The track is also pretty narrow here so beware of oncoming cars and logging trucks. If you have the time, there are a number of other national parks worth visiting in the area such as Washpool and the Gibraltar GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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OPTUS SATELLITE Ranges. There are numerous scenic

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opportunities inside and outside these parks and they’re well worth a look. Raspberry Lookout is highly recommended with its views over the

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THE THE NITTY GRITTY: information: information: Optus The Optus Thuraya Thuraya SatSleeve SatSleeve available isand available for Apple for Apple iPhone iPhone 4, 4s,4,5, 4s, 5s5,and 5sneed 6and models, 6 models, Samsung andthe Samsung Galaxy Galaxy S3, S4 S3,and S4S5 andmodels S5 models only.only. You’llYou’ll needneed to pair to the pairdevices the devices ble for Apple iPhone 4, NITTY 4s, 5,GRITTY: 5s Important andImportant 6 models, and The Samsung Galaxy S3,isS4 S5 models only. You’ll toand pair devices TM © TM © own andTM ©and 2012 2012 download andcoverage download the SatSleeve the SatSleeve app app from free from the Apple therequires Apple App Store App Store or Google or Google Play Play Store, Store, whilst whilst youphone are youinare a 3G in acoverage 3G coverage area. area. TheiPhone SatSleeve The SatSleeve requires requires its its own SIM card SIM card and phone and phone number. number. AppleApple iPhone iPhone and 2012 whilst you are in aand3G area. Thefree SatSleeve its own SIM card and number. Apple Apple, Apple, Inc. All Inc.rights All rights reserved. reserved. iPhone and App and App Store are trademarks are trademarks of Apple of Apple Inc. Android Inc. Android and Google and Google Play Play are trademarks are trademarks of Google of Google Inc. Inc. oid and Google Play are trademarks ofiPhone Google Inc.Store | G O C A M P I N G A U S T R A L I A 29 IMM00426 IMM00426

A Whale of a Time on the Fleurieu Words & images: Jannene Cannard

ith an old ‘swampy’ to cool us, seriously unreliable solar power to run it, and surrounded by a couple of thousand acres of fire-prone mallee scrub, summer is not my favourite season. So, for one week during the summer school holidays, we seek relief in the lush rolling hills and coastal sea breezes of the Fleurieu Peninsula, less than one hour’s drive south of Adelaide. There are two combined families of two adults and six kids! Every child got to choose an activity because there’s so much to do on the Fleurieu. This is a kids’ trip so our activities are based accordingly, a fact I reluctantly remind myself as we cruise past cafes, 30 |

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It’s hot in summer at home, very hot! In summer 2014, the town clock displayed fifty-two degrees! Admittedly the official temperature that day was only a mere forty-nine degrees! swanky restaurants and beckoning cellar doors through the picturesque villages of McLaren Vale and Willunga. The journey is southward toward the coast where the sparkling blue waters of the Indian Ocean twinkle on the horizon to the west and I cannot wait to roll out my towel on the white sands and laze at the beach. The Fleurieu Peninsula offers a range of accommodation options from beautiful B&Bs to camping. Our choice is bush camping and there’s a range of options. Kuitpo Forest This beautiful state forest stirs childhood memories of horse riding in the cool, deep shade of towering radiata pines, pitching a tent under the stars, and drifting to sleep while listening to the quiet shuffling of my pony nearby.

Visitors can enjoy a range of forestbased activities that include cycling, horse riding (BYO horse) and walking trails. The Heysen (walking) and Kidman (horse) trails both pass through Kuitpo Forest. Chookarloo Campground is in a section of native forest and is a typical bush camping area. The sites are separated by 20 metres or so of scrub and the campground has discreet pit toilets off to the side. Fees apply and a self-issue permit is available from the Kuitpo Forest Information Centre. Dogs are welcome with the usual restrictions. Sadly, this campground is closed from 1 December until 31 March. Deep Creek Conservation Park The Deep Creek Conservation Park is the largest native habitat on the Fleurieu

Peninsula and filled to the brim with wildlife. Approximately 110 kilometres from Adelaide, this park has four vehicle-based campsites to choose from that are all accessible by two-wheel-drive. All of the campgrounds have designated camping areas, fire rings and pit toilets. However, Stringybark Campground has the added attraction of showers and with six kids already rolling in the dirt playing an impromptu game of cricket utilising fence posts, a tree branch and a pine cone, our accommodation decision was made. As we unrolled the swags and set up camp, the kids disappeared into the scrub along the Spring Wildflower Walk and returned very excited to have found an echidna; something we rarely see at home. For such a small park (forty-five square kilometres) there are a surprising range of bushwalks to choose from, all on wellmarked and maintained paths. I can thoroughly recommend the 700-metre short, but steep, walk to the Deep Creek Waterfall and waterhole. The path is stepped and even the youngest, River, at age five was able to easily negotiate the trail. The other surprising highlight to this park are the spectacular views from a range of vantage points across Backstairs Passage to Kangaroo Island. As we all relax that evening, hot chocolates in hand, we plan our upcoming activities based largely on the weather forecast. Urimbirra Wildlife Park This privately owned park sits in the Hindmarsh Valley just outside of the beautiful seaside township of Victor Harbor.

We arrive just in time to watch the crocodiles being fed. Wow! Our guide stands in the middle of the enclosure casually explaining the hunting, feeding and lifestyle habits of the Australian crocodile. As he does so he holds out a chicken leg and a ‘teenage’ croc moves laboriously toward him giving the false impression that she is unable to move with any real speed on land. My jaw hit the ground as the keeper threw the chicken toward her and she moved with incredible speed to catch it, jaws snapping closed. The sound of the snap, so loud it echoed back to us from the rear of the enclosure, gave an indication of the power held in those jaws. It was a little unsettling and I’m suddenly very glad I live in southern Australia. Next, we wandered to the koala feeding area. The kids were delighted when we were all allowed into the enclosure to pat the koalas as they fed. The park is also home to an interesting, if creepy, reptile house, a dingo enclosure, wedge-tailed eagles, wombats, multitudes of kangaroos and emus wandering the grounds, and a petting zoo. Greenhills Adventure Park We unanimously voted this as the favourite holiday activity. Greenhills Adventure Park is just two kilometres outside Victor Harbor. A single entry fee includes most of the activities inside, and there are more than twenty. Anything additional is no more than $5.00 per activity. The kids made a beeline for the giant waterslides that are built into the side of a hill and have a drop of around 50 metres into a shallow pool and a stair climb back

Left to right: Jada enjoying the pedal water bikes, Greenhills Adventure Park.  Malachi go-karting, Greenhills Adventure Park.  Koala feeding and patting time, Urimbirra Wildlife Park.

to the top. I don’t really know how many times they climbed those stairs but, boy, they slept well that night! After a picnic lunch, we spent the afternoon exploring the rest of the park. A tractor-drawn train ride gave us an idea of what else there was to see and do and we wandered from pedal boats and bikes on the lake, to moon bikes, archery, an imagination playground, flying foxes, minigolf, a huge and disorientating maze, and giant dry slides and wave slides. No matter what age, there is something for everyone to enjoy at Greenhills.

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Victor Harbor Victor Harbor was initially intended by many, including Governor Hindmarsh, to be South Australia’s capital city. Modern Victor Harbor is a popular tourist town with its population trebling during peak season. Despite this, it retains its quaint coastal harbour feel and we spent a full day exploring the town and nearby Granite Island, which is home to a colony of little penguins. The island is accessible via a timber causeway that can be walked or driven by horse-drawn tram. We opted for the latter and sat in the sunshine on the top deck watching a seal frolic in the water as we ambled slowly across. The tram passed the Penguin Interpretive Centre and stopped at the kiosk and restaurant facility. We alighted directly onto the boardwalk and climbed the stairs to the beginning of a walking trail that circumnavigates the island. The horizon appears to extend all the way to Antarctica as the trail winds up to the wind-blown heights of the island and it’s easy to see why this harbour was home to South Australia’s first export industry. Two whaling stations were established in Port Victor in 1837 and the export of whale oil became a primary South Australian industry. Today, the visiting southern right and humpback whales remain a key component of South Australian industry fortunately for their majesty and beauty as a tourism attraction. South Australian Whale Centre Located in the heart of the township is a most interesting and friendly interpretive centre. The ground floor of three is filled with old whaling blubber pots, harpoons, whaling paraphernalia and beautiful murals covering every wall and includes information on how the items were used and what the oil was used for, which seems to have been almost everything. And it has a skeleton of the head of a southern right whale, bigger than my car! The top floor has a brilliant education centre where the kids spent a long and fascinating

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time touching the hands-on displays, looking through microscopes, exploring many creatures from the sea and learning more than I ever thought they would judging from the dinner conversation that night! Gathering up our buckets, spades and over-sized paint brushes, we descended to the basement where a sandpit containing fossil casts is the highlight, particularly for the younger ones in our group. The older boys were enthralled with the great white shark display and shark diving is now firmly on their to-do list! The girls were fascinated with the story of the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and its whale protection program. The display includes a replica of the communications room from the ship, Steve Irwin, enabling us to watch the real ship break through ice and participate in direct action against whalers. Spirit Of The Coorong Cruises The Main Wharf in the river port town of Goolwa is the only proclaimed freshwater port in the Southern Hemisphere and is home to the Spirit of the Coorong cruise boat. We opted for the two-hour Murray Mouth cruise, which was perfect for the waning attention span of our mob. Dredging at Murray Mouth meant that we couldn’t leave from the wharf as planned and had to drive out of town to a departure point at Hindmarsh Island, which meant we missed the river section of the cruise completely. The upside was that we spent more time travelling into the Coorong itself. The constant dialogue of our captain, filled with interesting and relevant information, more than made up for any initial disappointment. First we viewed one of five barrages constructed across tidal channels of the Lower Murray to separate the fresh water of Lake Albert and Alexandrina from the saline Coorong. The whole of the Coorong and Lower Lakes area is protected as a Wetland of International Significance and the birdlife, animals and plants are amazing. So rich

that, according to our captain, the area’s original inhabitants, the Ngarrindjeri people, led a less nomadic life than the Aborigines of the inland. We alight from the boat at the river mouth and I briefly watch the dredgers at work. It’s very shallow and they have their work cut out for them. According to my information brochure, ‘archaeological evidence indicates that the position of the mouth of the Murray River has moved within a range of six to eight kilometres during the past millennia’, and I’m guessing this isn’t the first time the mouth has silted up and won’t be the last. A windswept coastline, sporting the occasional commercial cockling operation, stretches before us and we go for a short walk before returning to the boat to begin our journey back to Hindmarsh Island. The Fleurieu Peninsula has so much more to offer. We had days to explore the beaches. Boomer Beach; brilliant surfing, but with signs warning of strong undercurrents, submerged rocks and various other dangers this mother of a fearless five-year-old elected the comparative safety of Horseshoe Bay, complete with fish and chips on the sand. The skate parks and playgrounds in Victor Harbor are great to burn off excess energy on ‘activity-free’ days, as are the coastal boardwalks. The bakeries and boutique outlets in the gorgeous tiny towns of Port Elliot and Middleton are delightful and well worth exploring. There’s so much more to experience and explore, already on our list for next summer; surf lessons, Big Duck Boat Tours, The Steam Ranger ‘Cockle’ Train, the Alexandrina cheese factory, paddle steamer cruises on the river, snorkelling in Second Valley, beaches at Normanville … and of course another visit to Greenhills. Perhaps we could slip in a winery or two next time? We all had a whale of a time, watch out Fleurieu, we’ll definitely be back! 

Left to right: Boogie boarding, Boomer Beach.  Giant waterslides, Greenhills Adventure Park.

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Peterborough Oakbank Coombah Outstation Terowie Jamestown Pop iltah E Y R E PENINSULA Lake Gladstone Mt ANXIOUS BAY Crystal Brook Bryan Getting there 933 Lock Spald Port Brought ing on Canopus Cleve Victor Harbor is approximately 85 Flinders Island Elliston Cowell Burra Canegrass Clare km south of Adelaide. From Adelaide Lake Arno Bay Wallaroo Kadina Robertstown Morga n city centre take Anzac Highway (A5) out Victori a Mount Hope R SPENCER Moonta Waikerie VE Riverton of Adelaide, turning south at Main South Cummins YORKE Balaklava RI Renmark Coffin B GULF Maitland ay Me Tumby Bay Kapun da Barm Road (A13). era Port Victoria Ardrossan Berri Sir Joseph Banks Coffin Bay PEN R Mer Loxt Group ingu on Nu r Avoid Bay Gawler Hardwicke Bay r io o t pa Swan Reach At Bedford Park you can either remain on the Port Vincent Port Lincoln Minlaton Mannum A13, or veer onto the Southern Expressway Alawoona Cape Carnot Thistle I Bridgewater Peebinga West Point Yorketown MALL (M2) which terminates at Old Noarlunga, Moun t Barker Gambier Is Karoonda Underbool Stenhouse Aldinga Beach Strathalbyn Tailem back onto the A13 where Main South Road Pinn aroo Cape Spencer Bay Lameroo GULF Bend N Murrayville becomes the Victor Harbor Road. OU Goolwa Lake STRAIT ST VINCENT M R O Alexandrina Patchew TIGAT Kingscote Victor Harbor INVES Encounter Continue south via Willunga Hill, Mt Coonalpyn Bay KANGAROO ISLAND Meningie Lake Albacutya Tintinara IE Compass and Hindmarsh Valley. The A13 Victor Harbor U Rainbow Cape Du Couedic PE terminates at Victor Harbor. Cape Gantheaume N Lake Keith Hindmarsh Bordertown Nhill Victor Harbor is accessible from

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Alternatively, Deep Creek Conservation Park is accessible from Adelaide by turning southwest at Willunga Hill onto the Pages Flat Road (B34) through Myponga (converts to B23 to Cape Jervis and Sealink Ferry), Yankalilla, Normanville and Second Valley to Delamere, turning east onto Range Road (B37) at Delamere.

Camping fees apply, self issue permits are available from Stringybark Campground. Campsites are; Stringybark (16 sites), some suitable for caravans and camper trailers; Trig (25 sites), some suitable for caravans and camper trailers; Tapanappa (18 sites); Cobbler Hill (10 sites); Eagle Waterhole (undefined sites), no vehicle access, hikers only. When to go This depends largely on the purpose of the visit. Average summer temperatures are in the mid-20°C range during the day, dropping to 15-16°C overnight. Average winter temperatures are 15.5-16°C, dropping to around 8°C at night.

Access The Fleurieu Peninsula is completely accessible with a two-wheel-drive vehicle. Where to camp Kuitpo Forest Brookman Road, Meadows www.forestry.sa.gov.au Ph: 08 8391 8800 Email: forestrysa@forestrysa.com.au Closed: December 1st – March 31st

Camping fees apply, self issue permits are available from the Kuitpo Information Centre. Deep Creek Conservation Park www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks Ph: 08 8598 0263

producing the most days with rainfall (12 per month).

The majority of activities in the area are more enjoyable during the summer months. Whale watching season commences mid-late May with the migration of the southern right whale and has usually concluded by the end of October. Humpback whales can occasionally be seen during this period. The most reliable months to see whales are July and August. Further information Urimbirra Wildlife Park Adelaide Road, Victor Harbor www.urimbirra.com.au Ph: 08 8554 6554 Email: info@urimbirra.com.au Open: 10:00-5:00 daily.

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Kuitpo Forest is accessible from Adelaide by turning east at Willunga Hill onto Brookman Road. Alternatively take the South Eastern freeway out of Adelaide to Hahndorf, and follow the B34 through Echunga and Meadows.

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Melbourne via the Princess Highway, turning onto the B45 at Wellington and crossing the Murray River via the punt. Continue on the B45 through Langhorne Creek to Strathalbyn, then turn onto the B37 to Victor Harbor via Goolwa, Middleton and Port Elliot.

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South Australian Whale Centre 2 Railway Terrace, Victor Harbor www.sawhalecentre.com Ph: 08 8551 0750 Email: whalecentre@victor.sa.gov.au Open: 10:30-5:00pm daily (Excluding Christmas Day) Note: this website includes a whale

sightings page for South Australia. OC E A call 1900 WHALES (1900 942 Alternatively N 537) for sighting information. Spirit of the Coorong Cruises Main Wharf, Goolwa www.coorongcruises.com.au Ph: 08 8555 2203 or 1800 442 203 Email: bookings@coorongcruises.com.au Departs: see website for cruise schedule Victor Harbor Visitor Information Centre The Causeway (opposite Warland Reserve), Victor Harbor www.tourismvictorharbor.com.au Ph: 08 8551 0777 Email: vic@victor.sa.gov.au Open: 9:00-5:00pm daily Closed: Christmas Day GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Clockwise from below Beginners and experienced off-roaders will enjoy the forest tracks.  There are challenges to be had if you want them!  Despite the drizzle, a campfire kept the chill off.  Ferns shine lime-green in the wet.  Navigating forest tracks can be tricky, particularly on a misty morning.

Wet & Wild

Watagans Words & images: Jennifer Ennion

ellbirds sing their melodic tune, adding an ethereal touch to the already enchanting forest. Ferns shine lime-green in the wet; eucalyptus leaves drip beads of rain; and mulch releases a strong bush aroma as it softens into mud underfoot. Gum trees line the tracks and glow apple green and rust red. Strangler vines continue their war against the natives; accumulating in thick clumps to hide tall trees and low mountainside shrubs. It’s a magical landscape that contrasts with the grunt of our four-wheel-drive. But that’s what offroading and camping in Watagans National Park and the surrounding state forests is about – blending driving fun with exploring a beautiful environment. We leave our home on the Central Coast, just north of Sydney, on a Saturday afternoon keen for a weekend adventure during a busy time of year. I’ve been hearing about Watagans National Park since I was a 34 |

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child, but don’t recall much about visiting it, so my husband and I set our GPS to travel 40 minutes north-west with friends along the M1 freeway. It’s not long until we turn off the motorway at Cooranbong and travel along a dusty Watagan Forest Road. The next few hours are spent without much of a plan as we cross seamlessly between the Watagan and Olney state forests. The state forests of the Watagan Mountains include numerous sections that can quickly become confusing. In the south, there’s Ourimbah, Wyong and Olney. To the north, there’s Heaton and Awaba, as well as Watagans National Park. Then in the centre, is the Watagan State Forest. Together, they’ve been recognised for their visitor value, having won multiple awards for adventure tourism, most recently in 2014 in the Hunter Central Coast Tourism Awards. As a result, they have a place in the region’s Tourism Hall of Fame.

Accolades aside, the various forests make for a lot of invisible boundaries. Instead of trying to stick to one area, we allow our 1993 Toyota LandCruiser Troop Carrier and our friends’ 1989 Ford F-150 to lead the way. We travel along stretches of bone chattering corrugations and accidentally head down a poorly marked private road, where we have no room, or choice, but to reverse slowly between narrow trees to get back out. The sound of branches scratching paintwork is torture to our ears. Elsewhere, the packed dir t and sandstone ground is uneven and eroded, making fun, easy tracks. Beginner adventurers will have a blast here. The main trails in and out of the Watagan Mountains are suitable for stockstandard four-wheel-drives, or tough normal vehicles. The main campgrounds we pass are all vehicle accessible and, because of this, we head elsewhere to search for our own utopia. It is only by chance, and a wrong turn, that we stumble upon a perfect, empty site in Olney State Forest. It’s relatively flat, grassy and surrounded by tall gums and there’s already a stone-ringed fireplace prepared by previous campers. With the sky darkening and rain spitting, we hasten to pitch our tents on the firm sandy ground. Once the tents, tarps and awnings are up, the rain sets in for the evening. But it’s a bearable drizzle during dinner hours and light enough to allow a roaring fire to keep the chill of night on a mountainside at bay – although beanies and fleeces do come out despite the warm daytime temperatures. This overall area, marked as Watagans National Park on my road map, is a perfect ‘staycation’ for Hunter Valley, Lake Macquarie and Central Coast locals, and a great weekend away for intrepid travellers from Newcastle and Sydney. It’s far removed from the relative luxuries of a holiday park and consequently attracts a more self-sufficient type of traveller. It’s particularly popular with four-wheel-drive

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From the top of Burra Rock is a magnificent view to Cave Hill over the vast uninhabited mallee woodlands of the Greater Western Woodlands.

Hunting

Hunt for

In the 1800s, water was a precious commodity on the overland trek to the Western Australian goldfields.

Words & images: Jill Harrison

everal years ago I found the deep grooves of the letter ‘H’ carved into the red bark of a tree on the edge of a dirt track deep in the vast uninhabited mallee woodlands south of the Western Australian goldfields. We had pulled off the track near Cave Hill to collect firewood for our camp. I was astounded to see the blaze on the tree, as I had just finished reading in our guide book about surveyor and explorer Charles Cooke Hunt who camped at Cave Hill in 1864. As I traced my finger along marks I wondered, ‘Did Hunt carve this 150 years ago?’ I couldn’t get Hunt out of my mind and after we came home I researched his history. Hunt was born in Brighton, England in 1832. He arrived in the Swan River Colony in 1863 and played a crucial role in early colonial development; leading four expeditions into the Western Australian interior between 1864 and 1866. 36 |

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Hunt was assigned to explore the country east of York to ascertain its pastoral and agricultural potential and to find permanent water sources. During these expeditions Hunt located a number of Aboriginal water holes and a large tract of good grassland that he named Hampton Plains. Hunt and his workforce of pensioner soldiers and probationar y convicts constructed a string of twenty-eight wells and dams and cleared a 500-kilometre track that became known as the York to Goldfields Road. These wells were a valuable lifeline to pastoralists, sandalwood cutters and explorers as well as thousands of prospectors walking overland during the 1890 Coolgardie-Kalgoorlie gold rushes. They were later utilised by CY O’Connor during the building of the Goldfields Water Supply Pipeline Scheme and during the construction of the Perth to Kalgoorlie telegraph and railway lines.

Many of the water holes and natural catchments on granite outcrops were well known to Hunt’s Aboriginal guides as they were vital water sources, particularly during drought. Early explorers agreed that without the assistance of their Aboriginal guides they would not have been able to explore the interior. So important was Hunt’s work that the famous Western Australian explorer and statesman John Forrest, once said of him, ‘Will I ever find a place where this man has not been before me?’ Hunt never named his discoveries after himself. In a letter to the Surveyor General in November 1866 he said, ‘My work will read with but little interest, being but a record of disappointment and drought.’ Indeed, Hunt’s expeditions were hindered by drought and he was unable to locate a permanent source of water. The heavy strain of exploration took a toll on his health and he died from heart failure in Geraldton in 1868 at the age of thirty-five. Hunt’s diaries and field books are preserved in the State Library of Western Australia. He might have disappeared into the history pages if not for his wells and dams. They can still be visited today by those willing to travel a little off the main roads as we have done over the last few years. The York to Goldfields Heritage Trail closely retraces Hunt’s route to the

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goldfields. Along this trail, and parts of the Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail, are some of Hunt’s wells and dams. The wells were lined with timber poles and granite slabs found onsite, each taking up to a month to build. Unfortunately, some of the wells have fallen into disrepair or are inaccessible as they are on private property, but others have information boards with maps and historical background. One of these is near Yellowdine on the Great Eastern Highway. In 1885, the railway came to York, an important departure point for those preparing to trek east. Many of York’s impressive buildings date from the gold rush era. Now 2014, we also made York our departure point. Our first stop was the old Youndegin Police Outpost built in 1865. It was interesting to walk around this old building, once an inn and then a staging post for Cobb & Co. A few hundred metres east we saw the crumbling remains of the first of Hunt’s wells by the edge of the road. Hunt used the Aboriginal well at Tammin Rocks in 1864 on his first eastward

exploration. The well was stoned up by his working party in 1865. Marronobbing dam, built by farmer Robert Hardy, was used by Hunt as a base camp in 1865. The dam is on private property. Please leave the gates as you find them. North of Doodlakine there is a picnic area at the old Doodlakine townsite. A short walk trail takes you to a well originally located on a sheep run established here in early 1864 by farmer BD Clarkson. In Merredin there’s the Merredin Peak Well and dam just north of the town. It is also worth walking about the remains of an army tent hospital, hastily erected here during World War II. Hunt’s party established a vegetable garden south of Merredin at Totadgin Well in 1865. Located in the Totadgin Conservation Park, a walk trail with interpretive panels leads over the rock to learn about granite rock ecology and enjoy views over surrounding farmland. Far to the east you may be able to see the Merredin wind turbines. To find Hunt’s well south east of

MOONDYNE CAPTURED AT BOODALLIN WELL

Boodallin Well was well known to sandalwood cutters, pastoralists, travellers and gold prospectors, especially during the 1890s, along the York to goldfields track. Hunt assisted with the capture of Moondyne Joe, possibly the state’s most infamous bushranger, at Boodallin in September 1866. Originally transported from England in 1855 for stealing food, Moondyne gained notoriety for his successful and numerous prison escapes. On this occasion, Moondyne and his companions escaped from Toodyay gaol, stealing food, clothing, firearms, ammunition and horses from properties around Toodyay. They intended to head to South Australia, initially following Hunt’s line of wells. Knowing that Hunt’s party were working eastwards, Moondyne intended to catch up with them, surprise them at night and steal fresh horses and rations. They planned to destroy any horses they did not need, forcing Hunt’s party to walk back to York, by which time Moondyne’s party expected to be well over the border. The plan failed when the fugitives were sighted by sandalwood cutters near Youndegin. Hunt was forewarned and his party assisted police troopers. Moondyne and his companions were captured with little resistance. 38 |

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Burracoppin along the Goldfields Road, walk about 100 metres east along the fence line from the parking area. Not far from here is a section of the 1837-kilometre Rabbit Proof Fence. Construction commenced here in 1902 in an ambitious, but ultimately failed, attempt to keep rabbits invading farmland from the east. West of Westonia on Stoneman Road is Boodallin Well. The infamous Western Australian bushranger Moondyne Joe and his companions were recaptured here in 1866 with the help of Hunt’s party who were warned that the escapees planned to steal Hunt’s horses and supplies at gun point. So impressed was Hunt with the water reserves of the Koorkoordine Well north of Southern Cross, that he established a depot there to store supplies during his 1865-66 expeditions. North of Yellowdine are two dams built in natural depressions to collect natural run-off on the northern side of Weowanie Rock. A four-wheel-drive is needed to reach Weowanie as the track runs along the edge of a salt lake and may be wet and boggy. Hunt built a well at nearby Duladgin Rock,

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Hunt used Burra Rock and Cave Hill as depots in 1864 because of abundant grass for horse feed. The dams on these rocks were constructed during the late 1800s/early 1900s woodlines era when thousands of tonnes of wood were taken from this area for use on the goldfields. From the top of Burra Rock there are magnificent views over the vast uninhabited mallee woodlands to Cave Hill. It had been easy for us to reach here in our four-wheel-drive, unlike the fortitude required by Hunt and others who manually forged a way through this country in the 1800s. At the end of our journey we camped at Cave Hill, which Hunt named for the hollowed out wind-sculptured cave on the western face of this impressive 1.5-kilometre long monolith. We hadn’t seen all of Hunt’s wells and dams, but we returned home with an admiration for his work, so vital to the opening up of Western Australia’s interior. Unfortunately Hunt died before their worth was realised. 

N E A O C

but it’s now believed to be buried. On the edge of the road is a timbered well built by the Mines Department circa 1900. If you turn north on the one-way track at the 374-kilometre mark on the Great Eastern Highway east of Yellowdine and follow the Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail, there are the remains of the original telegraph line, railway and pipeline. Further east are several dams built at the base of large granite rocks to service the steam trains. These dams are fed by run-off directed by rock walls and channels hewn from the rocks themselves. Karalee features a restored pipe flume that carries the water to the dam. There are attractive free camping sites at Karalee and Boondi Rocks; easily accessed from the Great Eastern Highway. One of Hunt’s most significant wells is located south of Coolgardie along the Victoria Rock Road at Gnarlbine Rock. This was a vital water source during the early days of the Coolgardie goldfields. Burra Rock and Cave Hill can be reached via the four-wheel-drive-only Burra Rock Road south of Coolgardie.

Rock (50 km east of Southern 200 Cross) 00 and Boondi Rock (108 km 20 east of 40 Southern Cross), just north00of the Great Eastern Highway, and at Burra Rock (60 km south of Coolgardie) and Cave Hill (90 km south of Coolgardie) via the Burra Rock-Cave Hill Road.

When to go Ideal time to travel is between April and October when the weather is cool (generally 20-25°C). Night temperatures can be very cold, so be prepared with warm clothing. Summer months can be hot (often between 30 and 40°C). More information Facilities at campsites can be very basic: long-drop toilets, campfire rings, picnic tables. Be aware of campfire bans, and use a gas stove. Please take rubbish away with you.

Most towns have caravan parks, but fuel can be difficult to purchase at smaller centres over weekends. Please take care around wells and dams that are not fenced. Clockwise from top left: The restored pipe flume at Karalee carries rain run-off from the rock to a dam used during the construction of the Kalgoorlie pipeline and railway line.  Cave Hill was used as a depot by Hunt in 1864 because of abundant grass for horse feed. The dam was constructed during the late 1800s woodlines era.  On Weowanie Rock there are two dams built in natural depressions to collect natural rain run-off.  Be careful around the old well sites.

Watch out for wildlife, especially at dawn and dusk. Visit: Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail www.australiasgoldenoutback.com Read: Explore the Holland Track and Cave Hill Woodlines: Explorer Series: Western Australia. Nick Underwood, Westate Publishers. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Kookynie THE TOWN THAT REFUSES TO DIE

Words & images: Therese Sayers

Finding a remote, seemingly deserted, outback goldmining town is like uncovering your own treasure. Discovering one that hasn’t quite died, where a pub, pushing into its 113th year, is still breathing life and serving cold beers, is like kicking up a gold nugget!

ookynie, in the far-flung northeastern goldfields of Western Australia, is such a place. True gold! Ruins of grand buildings and other remnants of its lustrous past life are testament to its heyday in the late 1800s and early 1900s when thousands flocked to Kookynie hoping to find their fortune. Its soul seeps into your own as you explore what’s left of this old gold rush settlement. Rusting car wrecks and the odd ancient truck, some from the early 1920s, lie about in the scrub. There are good walkways, many following the old streets, and plenty of information signs, so you know what you are looking at. Kookynie is around 800 kilometres from Perth, 200 kilometres north of Kalgoorlie, and 70 kilometres north-east of Menzies. It’s part of the massive 125,000 square kilometre outback Shire of Menzies, and bills itself as ‘a living ghost town’. It’s not 40 |

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hard to see why. Just about everyone has gone. Most of its buildings are in shambles or have long since eroded into the dirt. But not quite. This is an isolated gutsy little outback town close to the Great Victoria Desert that simply won’t lie down and die. Kookynie’s tenuous link to life is the 1902-built Grand Hotel, established seven years after gold was discovered nearby and three years before the settlement got electricity. It is the only hotel remaining of eleven, many quite substantial and impressive, that used to thrive here. Today, the ‘Grand’ still stands complete, the town heart that still beats, welcoming travellers. The bar, ladies and gentlemen, is open for business! Back in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Kookynie was a typical Western Australian gold rush bonanza town with around 630,000 tonnes of ore averaging 15 grams of gold per tonne being mined between 1897 and 1911.

By 1907, more than 3500 people called it home. Kookynie had hundreds of businesses, including a brewery, cordial factories, grocery and hardware stores, a drapery, newspapers, and the first public swimming pool in the West Australian goldfields! There was also a town hall, seven brass bands, and a red light district with offerings from Japanese ladies! Kookynie had everything a well-heeled outback Aussie town could hope for: butchers, bakers, blacksmiths, jewellers, a school, hospital, police station, churches and even a turf club. In 1906, 150 children crammed into the local Institute hall for the Kookynie Fancy Dress Ball. Kookynie was a place not only inundated with miners and prospectors, but it was where families settled. A busy rail service saw four trains a day arriving from Kalgoorlie, 30 minutes apart. Kookynie was outback, but well connected to the big smoke! Sadly, it was all over by the 1920s as the gold ran out. Some buildings were pulled apart brick by brick and moved to other areas because of a building materials shortage. Others were abandoned. Kookynie has teetered along on the brink of oblivion ever since, but this tenacious little place has hung on, never given up, and has

Clockwise from far left: Old wrecks and old buildings pepper Kookynie.  Mike Sayers enjoys a beer in the ‘Grand’, the only hotel left in town.  The Grand Hotel in the early 1900s.  Ruins of the 14-bedroom National Hotel. It had a main bar, salon bar, dining room and impressive billiards room.  Kookynie bills itself as a ‘living ghost town’.

never quite joined scores of other remote gold mining towns from the era that have long since disappeared back into the bush. In its heyday, a corner restaurant in Kookynie offered a three-course dinner for a ‘bob’ (ten cents)! Today, the only meals available to the public in Kookynie are at the ‘Grand’, which services tourists and about a dozen locals remaining in the district. Unfortunately, I lucked out, with the ‘cook’ away on the day I visited. The kitchen was closed and other visitors quickly snapped up a few neatly wrapped sandwiches on the bar. I should have brought the emergency chocolate with me as it was another 70 kilometres back to Menzies, the nearest town. I remembered a sign as I passed through, en route to Kookynie, advertising ‘home made pies’. By the time I got back, they had sold them all! I guess that is a lesson on always being prepared when you venture into the West Australian outback, even if you’ve read that a pub has a great lunchtime menu waiting for you! But the ‘Grand’ was still worth walking into for a cold ale. It’s right up there as an iconic Aussie outback hotel. In its early days, before electricity, beer barrels were kept cold with wet bags. No mean feat in the climate! The ‘Grand’ doesn’t look like it’s

changed much since then, and has largely escaped the awful 50s and 60s renovations that ruined many a good old Australian pub. This is a well-worn no-frills pub in a good way, reflecting the quirky humour of its owners. An outback version of a ‘deer’ head scrutinises patrons from a high wall, and a throwing spear with its own riflescope is mounted over the bar! The ‘Grand’s’ faded walls are peppered with a collection of historic photographs and memorabilia. There’s an antique bottle collection too. I found myself wondering about the thousands of people who have visited the pub; some perhaps with a nugget or two of gold in their pockets. Rumour has it that there’s still plenty of gold about for metal detector enthusiasts and that there’s been some very happy visitors in recent years heading home! The Grand Hotel’s cook (the one missing on my visit) is owner Kevin Pusey. He was away touring around the USA on a HarleyDavidson, leaving the hotel to be run by his able and witty wife Margaret. ‘Yes, you can come in, we’re open,’ she calls, as tourists press their faces against the outside windows, startled when they realise they are looking at an operating pub. Four venture inside while my hubby and I are there, enjoying a quiet drink. An English

couple settle down at the bar, joining us in a friendly chat with Margaret. Turns out she’s a fairly accomplished artist, but says the pub keeps her so busy she hasn’t got time to paint these days. Apparently, Kookynie still enjoys boom times with visitors, particularly in major holiday periods when goldfield locals and tourists arrive in droves. Last Easter, Margaret said, the hotel was packed, and they had to turn people away! All this seems quite surreal when you look outside and see the skeleton of the old gold mining town, almost lost in its quiet scrubby landscape. Directly across the road, four steps lead up to a mysterious rise in the red dirt. It was once the main railway station platform. When we visited, the Puseys had the ‘Grand’ up for sale, ahead of retirement. But it’s unlikely they’ll be moving out of the district if Margaret has her way. She loves Kookynie despite its remoteness and wants to stay on in another old building they’ve renovated. I understand why Margaret doesn’t want to go. There’s a lot more to this remote town than meets the eye and there’s a lot of exploring to do. Exploring Kookynie, also known by its Aboriginal name of Lungkutjarra, is like strolling through a living Australian history book, chapter by chapter. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Deakin Where toKanandah camp k Forres t For caravan and camping sites contact the Grand Hotel, LoonganaKookynie on (08) 9031 3010 or the Haig Rawlinna Zanthus Shire of Menzies on (08) 9024 2041 www.menzies.wa.gov.au N U

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Fraser Range

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Salmon Gums

Kalgoorlie Tourism – Caiguna www.kalgoorlietourism.com/Kookynie_Niagra_Dam Balladonia

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More information Border Village The Golden Quest Discovery Trail – a 965 km self-drive route throughEucla Western Mundra Madura Australia’s goldfields. www.goldenquesttrail.com billa Cocklebiddy

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Lake Cowan

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Avoca Downs

Lake Johnston

Serpentine Lakes

When to go Spring for good travelling weather and local wildflowers. Winter has many mild lovely days, but nights can be chilly. This is a semi-arid region, and summers can be very hot! Thunderstorms also occur in summer and autumn, and some areas can flood.

Yindi

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Access Lake Minigwal Enjoy the trip to Kookynie in any vehicle.

Lake Marmion Edjudina

Lake Ballard Menzies

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Getting there Lake Rason Sealed road all the way – 800 km east of Perth, 200 km north of Kalgoorlie, Jubilee Lake 70 km north of Menzies, and about 28 km off the Northern Goldfields Highway.

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LakeifDenn that the dam could be dry theisarea has had long seasons withLake no rain. White There are some more walks to do here, including a 1.15-kilometre walking trail Lake Wills around the dam with interpretive panels along the way. Combining Kookynie and Niagara is a good idea. LAKE MAC KAY the area is Despite its remote location, reasonably easy to reach. The Northern Goldfields Highway between Kalgoorlie and Mt Co Mt Webb the Kookynie turn-off is 531an excellent road. It’s straight as an arrow with a good sealedA Mt Tietke ns R 543 bumpy, surface that’s better than the often RE TO Kintore N Mt Leisler KI more major route of Great Eastern Highway 897 Lake Macd onald running between Perth and Kalgoorlie. The turn-off to Kookynie, just north of GMenzies I B S O Ntown, D E Sjoins E R Tup with a 28-kilometre road, also sealed. Lake Hopkins The West Australian northern goldfields Lake Neale can be sizzling in summer. Average BLOO DS RA Kaltu30s. WL into the mid to high temperaturesRAare katjara IN S (Doc ker River) ON A A P ETE It reached 46 degreesRin January last year! RM AN Giles Meteorological Station N Flies in the WA goldfields can also be real RA S Kata Tjuta/M pests, so take the fly net! St Thunderstorms can occur in summer 10 and autumn, and areas can flood. For me, Mt Cockburn Surve yor Generals Corner spring is the ideal time to visit, when the 1134 RT O T N Mtare wildflowers out. Winter is Oalso good, MANN RAS Squires MK RA I NS 704 ON R AS though nights can be freezing because the area is close to the desert. Kalgoorlie was our base for this trip, restricting our stay in Kookynie to a daytime visit. Next time we will take ourMttent and Sir Thom as 805 stay awhile!  NS

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We didn’t overnight in Kookynie, but there are basic caravan and camping Mt Edgar Lake Wuakarlycarly 371 facilities available. Enquiries can be made Lakes e at the Grand Percival Hotel or the Shire of Menzies n i g l la u Telfer Tobin Lake offices. The pub also has accommodation N Nullagine with share facilities. Ensuites just wouldn’t mboo Springs Lake Dora seem right in this lovely old lady. There are additional free camping Noreena Downs Lake Auld facilities just over nine kilometres away at ue Blanche Lake Tabletop Roy Hill 427 the nearby Niagara Dam, which you pass R Balfour Downs heading into Kookynie from the highway. A Talawana small waterfall in the area, which only flows ek after heavy rains, was jokingly named after Cre Jiggalong the famous falls in the United States! Lake Disappointment ry vo The dam was built in the late 1800s Sa Mundiwindi to service steam trains for the goldfields. oo Downs Powdered cement for its construction was LITTLE SANDY DESERT railed from Perth to Coolgardie and then Above: E S T E R N W The ‘Grand’s’ old hallway, a treasure hauled more than 200 kilometres onto trove of memorabilia. Niagara by camel trains. marina Below: C. Y. O’Connor, the mastermind behind Mt EssendonSteps that once led to the town’s busy the Perth to Kalgoorlie famous water 910railway platform. Lake Burnside RA Glenayle pipeline, engineered the dam. (Oneahibunga) N O ARV C AR N Unfortunately, the dam turned out to be Neds Creek Lake Buchanan a white elephant with plentiful underground ake Granite Peak Lake ory Lakenear Breaden Nabberu water being found Kookynie and Carnegie Cunyu problems encountered filling it in the dry Lake Carnegie Warburton seasons. Today, it’s a popular picnic, swimming and unpowered camping spot. It has Wiluna toilet facilities and a dump point. Visitors Lake Way Lake Wells Baker Lake should take in their own firewood and drinking water. Also check with the council Wonganoo Albion Downs if seasonal fire bans are in place. Be aware

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Whale Dreams Humpback whale watching tours have been happening in Australia since 1987; however, swimming with these wild cetaceans has only recently been introduced here as part of a trial in the Great Sandy Marine Park. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a thrilling proposition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and maybe one day the activity will evolve to match opportunities available in other parts of the world. Words & images: Kara Murphy

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he enthusiastic adult humpback whale slaps his tail repeatedly; a spectacle causing quite a commotion aboard 18.5-metre whale watching vessel Quick Cat II.

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Clockwise from far left: A juvenile humpback whale plays joyfully before whale swimmers in Vava’u, Tonga.  A humpback whale puts on a great show for whale watchers by breaching repeatedly, Platypus Bay.  Quick Cat II pulls up to the Kingfisher Bay Resort jetty to collect whale watchers and hopeful swimmers.  Passengers aboard Quick Cat II have their eyes on a whale, Platypus Bay.  Quick Cat II skipper and Hervey Bay Whale Watch co-owner Brian Perry. Brian and his wife Jill pioneered Australia’s whale watching industry.

We’ve been cruising around Great Sandy Marine Park’s Platypus Bay, on the western side of World Heritage-listed Fraser Island, for the past hour or so, and we’ve spotted a number of whales in this time, but none have seemed quite as energetic as this one. Hugging the port side of the vessel, we squeal in excitement and attempt to capture the moment with our cameras. When the whale finally ceases his movements and disappears beneath the surface, a child cries out, ‘That was 25 tail slaps!’ Skipper, vessel co-owner Brian Perry, breaks up our laughter, advising over the loudspeaker, ‘Get ready – he’s probably going to breach here soon.’ Brian, who, with his wife Jill, pioneered Australia’s whale watching industry in Platypus Bay in September 1987 and has been running these trips ever since, is correct. The cetacean hurls much of his body vertically above the bay in a single, exuberant motion, and then comes crashing down backwards, his 30-tonne body creating a million bubbles in a salty champagne explosion.

Dramatic and fantastic for photos, breaching is high on the list of behaviours that whale watchers wish to see. However, as grateful as I am to observe it, breaching, tail-slapping whales aren’t the type I’m hoping we’ll encounter today. I’ve joined this morning tour with a desire to do more than watch whales – I want to swim with them as well. Every year humpback whales travel thousands of kilometres from their summer feeding grounds in the Arctic or Antarctic to warmer-water mating and calving areas. A growing population of approximately 20,000 humpback whales migrate up Australia’s east coast roughly between June and August each year; they turn south in July and August, and between July and October, Platypus Bay, with its sheltered waters, is a place where approximately 5000 of these whales rest, nurture calves, and play before resuming their journey. Sub-adult whales (juveniles) and mating pods tend to frequent the bay in July and August, and mothers and calves tend to spend time here in September and October.

About nine Hervey Bay businesses operate whale watching trips in the marine park; however, at the time of writing, only four, including Brian and Jill’s company, Hervey Bay Whale Watch, have the licence to conduct tours where clients can swim with the whales as well. The 2014 whale season marked the beginning of a two-year humpback whale swimming trial – the first time this experience has been available in an Australian marine park since 1990, when Platypus Bay became a marine park and whale watching guidelines, which Brian and Jill helped create, were introduced. Under the trial, whale watching tour operators with permits to run tours in the park have permission from the Queensland Government to allow people in the water when whales are in the area. ‘Operations must be in line with whale watching regulations and guidelines, and permits have strict conditions,’ a Queensland Parks & Wildlife Service spokesperson explained. ‘For example, vessels and swimmers must not approach within 100 metres of a whale GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Top to bottom: A woman swims alongside an inquisitive humpback whale, Vava’u, Tonga.  A whale watcher heads back up the Kingfisher Resort jetty after a morning on the water.  A young humpback calf plays alongside its mother in Platypus Bay as she shows him how things are done in whale world.

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and an operator must not put people in the water when there is a calf or an injured whale present.’ In addition to determining how the tourism market responds to the whale swimming opportunity and how the activity complies with conditions that apply to commercial whale watching activities, the trial aims to: ‘determine the best types of activities that allow people to swim with whales,’ said the spokesperson, ‘for example, submersible duckboard experiences at the rear of the boat, boom-net experiences off the side of the boat and, potentially, swim-line experiences off the back of the vessel.’ During the trial the government will consider how to mitigate any issues that arise; actions could include amending whale watching guidelines and regulations as necessary. Why does the Queensland Government think the trial is a good idea? ‘Hervey Bay is recognised as the whale watching capital of Australia,’ replied the spokesperson. ‘This initiative is a natural extension to the whale watching experience.’ And so, on this beautiful mid-September morning, I’m scanning the surrounding waters for a calm, curious juvenile whale, which, under the regulations, are the ‘best swimming whales’, says Brian. We need a whale that is interested enough to come close to the boat, but not too close, at least not until we’re already in the water – and one that doesn’t feel the need to breach, tail slap, or make any other dramatic movements. (A gentle spyhop would be fine, though.) ‘Come on whales,’ I think, my underwater camera ready and waiting on the lower deck. ‘Where are you?’ Having swum with humpback whales in Vava’u, Tonga – where Tongan government whale watching and swimming regulations apply but where swimming with just about

any type of whale, including juveniles, mothers and calves, lone male singers, and even lusty males violently battling each other in efforts to escort a female, is legal – I already know that inquisitive, juvenile whales are the best kind. My whale-swimming group was lucky enough to swim freely, without a swim line, near a couple of juvenile males on one occasion for over an hour, watching in awe as one friendly behemoth reached out to us repeatedly with his pectoral fins, occasionally seeming to mimic our movements. The other whale, further away, sang a plaintive song – perhaps in efforts to woo a female or maybe even his friendly friend. On another occasion, we swam close to another juvenile, which approached us and danced beautifully as we snapped photos and tried to remember to breathe. In Tonga, we entered the water to observe mothers and calves a few times also. On a couple of occasions, the mother gently ushered the calf away after ten minutes or so. But one mother permitted our presence for much longer; she allowed us to watch from a respectful distance for well over a half hour – although she did keep her calf close, tucked beneath her chin, as the calf eyed us curiously. When we departed, the pair were in the same area where we found them. Abandoning the breaching male, Brian moves Quick Cat II closer to Fraser Island’s ochre dunes and generous vegetation. About 400 metres ahead, we can see a mum and calf, mainly because of the calf’s continuous breaching, in a display that seems to communicate, ‘Look, Mum – I can breach, too!’ As we near the duo, the calf’s breaching ceases, but it continues to make invigorating tail and pectoral fin slaps, mimicking the movements of its mother and entrancing

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Further information Hervey Bay Whale Watch (www.herveybaywhalewatch. com.au) conducts two whale watching trips per day from mid July until late October. Both trips depart from Great Sandy Strait Marina, and they pick up guests from the Kingfisher Bay Resort jetty in the mornings as well.

For information on Hervey Bay and Fraser Island, visit www.visitfrasercoast.com.

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Tips: If your heart is set on swimming with the whales, plan to join at least a few whale watching trips to increase your chances.

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The Guild is a proud AUSBUY member supporting Australian owned and made products exclusively.

www.australianmanufacturedcampertrailers.org.au GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

| 49

TOP5

Tips for choosing a portable fridge. Words: Monica McInnes Image: Peter Woods

A portable fridge is becoming commonplace in many camping kits, but if the investigation process leaves you cold, here’s a quick guide to help choose the fridge that’s right for you.

he good old esky and couple of bags of ice just won’t cut it anymore. Floating ham slices, water-logged dips, slimy cheese and soggy tomatoes can make extended camping a real turn-off. But with a portable fridge you can camp for longer and explore further – all while keeping the food fresh. Aside from preventing water-logged food, a portable fridge can be such a versatile product that it shouldn’t just be holed-up in the garage ready for the next camping adventure. A portable fridge is the perfect companion for entertaining at home, grocery shopping and impromptu picnics. When you have a power outage, just plug it into a portable power source and keep the milk cold until power is restored. The list of uses is vast. But, before you race into the nearest camping store, here are our top five things to think about when finding the best portable fridge solution.

Where will I be storing the unit? Portable fridges can be quite big and heavy, so you need to consider where you plan to store the unit when camping. Take the measurements and determine what will be supporting the fully-laden fridge. Some car boots require reinforcements, or perhaps you plan to install a fridge slide in the back of a wagon. Wherever you choose to store the portable fridge, ensure it is fitted safely and securely. If it isn’t going behind a cargo barrier, consider tie-down brackets or safety slides.

Do I need a fridge or a fridge/ freezer unit? There are several portable fridge configurations on the market, but the safest option is a compressor fridge, which is essentially just like a home fridge. From this range you can choose from a full fridge set-up, or a fridge and freezer set-up. The beauty of a full fridge configuration is that you can set the thermostat to the desired

What capacity do I need? This is like asking how long is a piece of string? Some things to consider when looking at storage capacity are: ■ How many people are in your camping party? ■ How long do you camp? ■ H o w m u c h f re s h fo o d d o you carry? Engel Marketing representative, Mick

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temperature to freeze, refrigerate, or store food at somewhere in-between. Portable fridges that have separate compartments for fridge and freezer often only have one thermostat, but the configuration of the fridge allows for one section to retain a lower temperature. Other units on the market do have two separate thermostats, allowing control of the temperature of each compartment.

Carter suggests one effective way to determine how many litres you need in a portable fridge. ‘We often ask customers – how big is your esky? We then explain that one third of this space is taken up with ice, so if your esky is 60 litres, you should look for a 40-litre fridge.’ How do I power the unit? Your car can power all portable fridges and freezers with a connection to the 12-volt socket. For convenience, many vehicles also have this socket in the boot. Some vehicles will require an auxiliary cable from the battery to power the fridge when the car is off. There is a worry that this might drain the car and it’s something to investigate with experts because it really depends on the vehicle, travelling habits and fridge usage. Even so, to be sure you won’t drain the battery several options are available to help power your fridge: install auxiliary batteries; set up a solar panel; or carry a generator. At a powered campsite, you can plug the fridge into a 240-volt socket. How much is it going to cost? After considering the available space and your needs, set yourself an affordable amount to spend. Whatever the amount there will be a fridge to match from entry-level through to premium options available across most reputable brands. Mick Carter explains, ‘While the top of the range models have all the bells and whistles, steel construction, digital controls and LED internal light, with a quality brand, like ENGEL, you get the same performance from an entry-level budget model. You may get an analogue control and plastic cabinet, but you get the same cooling units and compressor as the top end models.’ Whichever portable fridge you choose, there is one sure-fire guarantee – you’ll wonder how you ever camped without one! 

Glacier The New Fridge From Evakool E NWID NATIO VICE R E S ORK NET W

Evakool is proud to release Glacier, their latest range of portable fridge freezers. Glacier is a modern designed range of portable fridges, available in 5 model sizes ranging from 45 to 80 litres. Housed in a sturdy, white, powder coated fully insulated metal cabinet and powered by world renowned Danfoss designed compressors, the Glacier range offers silent, reliable and efficient operation. The multi voltage systems allow all models to operate off 12v, 24v and 240v.

The popular 75 litre unit model G 75 DX boasts a dual circuit cooling system that allows either of its internal tubs to operate independently either as a fridge or as a freezer and is ideal for the family.

Affordably priced, Glacier offers an impressive range of features which include: • • • • • •

adjustable voltage protection self diagnostic fault system easy to use digital controls internal LED lights removable baskets protective transit bags – available as an option

Contact EVAKOOL for details of your nearest stockist Phone: (07) 5492 7777 Email: sales@evakool.com

www.evakool.com

Engel is proud to support Legacy

and commemorate 100 years of the ANZAC tradition. In 2015, Australians will commemorate 100 years since our nation’s involvement in the First World War. Like all Australians, Engel Australia are doing their part to acknowledge this significant event in Australian history. Engel have released two Legacy special edition army green portable fridge freezers and matching camouflage transit bags (while stocks last). Part proceeds will go directly to Legacy to help support the families of returned service men and women.

Special edition Legacy fridges: • Fully endorsed by Legacy • Army green colour with Legacy badge • Features Engel Digital Technology • Sawafuji Swing Motor • Tough steel construction • Available in the 40 litre and 60 litre model • Limited stock available

Legacy is an Australian charity dedicated to caring for the families of our veterans. With a 90-year history in Australia, Legacy today assists over 90,000 widows and 1900 children. The special edition Legacy fridges are available in the 40 litre and 60 litre models and feature Engel’s Digital Technology, the Sawafuji Swing Motor and Engel’s tough steel construction.

For more information and to ﬁnd your nearest stockist, visit www.engelaustralia.com.au or phone 1300 302 653

GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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A Big Hunk

‘o Love PARKES ELVIS FESTIVAL 2015 Words: Andrea Ferris

964, it was a very good year – or so I’m reliably informed as I was otherwise engaged in the terrible twos, navigating the big potty, and plotting to expunge my new baby sister. It was an Olympiad year, held in Tokyo, where Australia came eighth with a whopping stash of six gold medals. The fellow with the bushy eyebrows, Robert Menzies, was prime minister. The Beatles toured and created mass teenage angst. Donald Campbell set a new land speed record in Bluebird, and good ol’ Dawnie was named Australian of the Year. 1964 was also the year that twenty-nineyear-old Elvis Presley made his sixteenth movie, Roustabout. If you haven’t managed to catch it on TV some lazy rainy Sunday arvo, the plot is basic: Charlie the singer (Elvis), joins a downtrodden carnival troupe run by Maggie (Barbara Stanwyck) and falls in love with feisty Cathy (Joan Freeman) much to the disgust of Cathy’s dad (Leif Erickson). Somewhat predictable cheesy outcome, but entertaining nonetheless. Apart from the fact that 1960s carnival folk probably camped at their gigs, you may well be wondering what a history lesson, Elvis Presley, and this magazine have in common. Enter the Parkes Elvis Festival, at which yours truly was thoroughly 52 |

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indoctrinated into the, seemingly endless and ageless, love affair with the slick blackhaired rock’n’roller, despite the fact that he’s been dead 27 years and would have turned 80 this year had he been less fond of peanut butter-laden snacks. Every year since 1993, on the second weekend in January (to coincide with Elvis’ birthday) the mid-sized agricultural and mining town of Parkes in Central West NSW has held a festival to celebrate ‘The King’. Attracting a modest couple of hundred fans in the early years, the festival had a surge of popularity around 2004 and word began to spread. This year, an estimated 20 000 people (the largest crowd ever) descended on Parkes to an event that attracts, not only national, but global media attention. Looking down from space Parkes must look like a magnet pulling hundreds of little white square things into its force field as caravans and motorhomes file into town from all points of the compass. The caravan parks are full to overflow areas, as is the showground and anyone that has a front lawn and a van-pulling relative (which is the category to which we fit). We used the festival as an excuse to catch up with rellies, one of whom lives at Parkes and works for the nearby Northparkes copper and gold mining operation.

Entering town from the west on Friday afternoon was a bit of a non-event. I expected ‘Welcome’ banners and cool signs – the usual event paraphernalia – but the streetscape was unassuming; the welcome understated. In fact, the first sign of anything Elvis was a personalised number plate parked at Woollies followed by some fun, fifties costuming by the check-out operators. The fan-fare, with the emphasis on ‘fan’, was being saved for Saturday. Saturday morning heralds the highlight and major drawcard of this five-day festival, the ninety-minute Northparkes Mines Street Parade held along Parkes’ main drag, Clarinda Street, which was transformed into a veritable Elvis-a-thon. Accompanying the traditional brass bands (playing Elvis tunes) were hundreds of, what we christened, Elvi (the made-up plural of Elvis!). Little ones, big ones, fat ones, thin ones, old ones, baby ones, politician ones, female ones, foreign ones – it was hilarious. For a mere $250 anyone can purchase an Elvis costume from the festival merchandise shop, Elvis Central – white jumpsuit bedecked with colourful rhinestones and flared trouser legs. They come in all sizes – and are see-through, which caused us no-end of mirth as so many of the parade

Clockwise from left: Bedazzled by chrome and fins. Photo: Andrea Ferris.  A view of the crowd from the Cooke Park stage. Image courtesy of Parkes Elvis Festival.  Also a product of the 60s, The Dish. Photo: Andrea Ferris.  $250 buys an Elvis suit complete with flares and fake rhinestones! Photo: Andrea Ferris.

participants displayed a tad more than their blue suede shoes! Local businesses, schools and community organisations get into the swing with decorated trucks and cars, some singing and dancing, some swaying and smiling, everyone laughing and waving. There were so many classic cars the thousands of folk lining the street were bedazzled by tonnes of chrome, whitewalled tyres and fabulous fins. Five ‘dotty’ ladies near our group with matching skirts, shirts and headwear were clearly having a ball watching the passing parade. First time festival goers, they’d come on a bus tour from as far afield as the Gold Coast to pay homage. Each festival has a theme based on an Elvis movie and this year it was everything carnival for the 1964 classic, Roustabout, providing fans an opportunity to dress up as gypsies, clowns, tight-rope walkers, lion-tamers – only limited by imagination. That’s what is really fun about the festival; everyone can dress up and really get into it. It’s like one enormous fancy dress party. As the parade winds down, the crowd adjourns to Cooke Park in the centre of town, which is transformed into an eating, merchandising and entertaining precinct. There’s a huge stage set up with some

seating, although it’s wise to bring your own, and shade sails where the huge tree canopies fail to reach. The stage is circled by every imaginable food stall, so no-one need go hungry, but patience is paramount as the lines are lengthy. But that doesn’t matter! There’s so much to giggle and point at amongst the passing people that time flies. The Parkes Elvis Festival is a five-day extravaganza beginning on Wednesday and wrapping up Sunday afternoon. On the first day each year, music fans gather at the Elvis Wall of Fame to celebrate an Aussie music legend. Angry Anderson from the 70s band Rose Tattoo was the 2015 recipient. There are a number of venues dotted around town with all sorts of free and ticketed Elvis-themed entertainment from photographic displays, busking, Bingo with Elvis, memorabilia collections, concerts, markets, films, tribute shows, talent quests, dances, karaoke, gospel service and my personal favourite, Elvis at the Trots, held at the showground paceway! On Saturday night our party of twelve descended on the Hotel Gracelands’ IKON restaurant for an Elvis tribute show performed by Wayne Cooper – all the way from Newcastle, NSW. Wayne is a consummate performer and channelled

The King in a rockin’ good two-hour show complete with dancers and very talented back-up singers. We laughed, sang along, tapped our feet, ate too much, drank a lot and came away with a new-found appreciation for this legendary star (and Elvis!). Sadly, our stay was limited to the weekend and even more sadly, it rained – a lot. Serial festival fanatics warned us that Parkes was going to be hot; uncomfortably dive-for-the-nearest-airconditioned-pub hot but, alas, 2015 was more soaked than scorched. Not that anyone was complaining as the drought-breaking rain fell on the sails at Cooke Park and the only people on stage on Sunday morning were a few brolly-clad officials surveying the soggy scene and posting ‘cancelled’ signs. A few lonely sequin-studded buskers braved the near-empty main street as local cafes bulged with the Sunday breakfast trade, but the rain barely dented the Elvi enthusiasm as they migrated between all-weather venues to enjoy the program regardless. I’ll admit it, some scepticism accompanied me to Parkes. Because I was just a little kid in the sixties, Elvis Presley is a vague symbolic notion of the early age of rock’n’roll and someone who appeared to waste his talent and life by overindulging and expiring early. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Taronga Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo An easy day trip from Parkes is the wonderful open plains zoo at Dubbo. It’s open 9.00 am to 4.00 pm every day and costs $47 for adults and $24 for children 4 – 15. There’s also concession tickets and family passes. The zoo is home to hundreds of animals from around the world accommodated in large open-style exhibits throughout a natural bushland setting. The six-kilometre circuit meandering through the zoo is fun to do on a bike and there’s plenty of educational and entertaining events on offer. www.taronga.org.au or ph: (02) 6881 1488.

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Goobang National Park A treasure we discovered this trip is Goobang National Park, just 55 km east of Parkes. It’s a paradise of quiet bushland with two free Tartulla Suratmountain camping areas, bushwalking and Con Glenmorga biking. The northern main camping ground, n Ta Mea ndarra Wanda Wandong, is just off the bitumen and is massiveLa(20 sites) with eco-toilets, Bollon ke Kajarabi Moonie e picnic shelters with gas BBQs and fire rings. River St George We opted for the southern camping area,Leumeah e nn lo Woo lerinasix sites a Greenbah, with set deep Nindin B igulthe ly bush ood Talw Toobeah with kangaroos,Rbirds, picnic tables, non-flush o Di nbandiin summer loo and gfire butrranot when oa rings, Thallon Go er Mu

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DESERT

‘The Dish’ CSIRO Parkes Telescope Dynevor Downs CunnamullaHighway 20 oo Located 5 km l l off the Newell Bu Eulo of the movie The Yak ara from Parkes the star km Murra Mu Dish is one of Australia’s most prominent rra Lake Wyara landmarks and another Bu was Caiwarro 60s icon. (It Westlea ndaleer builtHuinnge1961). There’s an interpretive centre, rford theatre, café, viewing uand photography rra ab ut t Thuopportunities and a shop. rloo Downs Cmerchandise Yantabulla Enngonia Weilmoringle Open daily 8.30 am to 4.15gpm (extended o Wa naa ring e r to 5.30 pm during the festival). ar Ph: (02) 6861 Fords Bridge W 1777 or visit www.parkes.atnf.csiro.au Thargomindah Radio

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If there’s only so much Elvis you can take, or you want to extend your visit to NSW’s mpine Tobermory Central WestToo beyond the festival, here’s Wyandra some suggestions: Humeburn

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Clearly I underestimated the man’s appeal – and not just to women. Or maybe it’s not him that’s really appealing. Perhaps it’s the memories Elvis evokes of carefree rebellious teenage days full of angst and promise. W h a te v e r Tr e v o r! F o r g e t t h e philosophising. In 2015 and beyond Elvis is a great excuse for a party and the place to be is Parkes every January. “’Til we meet you again, may God bless you. Adios.” (Elvis Presley in 1977 at the end of his last tour.)

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Access all areas

Words: Claudia Bouma Images: Chris Bouma

Arm yourself with all the facts on national park passes before you cross the border.

ustralia might be one big country, but each state has different rules when it comes to visiting national parks and camping for the night.

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New South Wales There are 46 national parks in NSW that Cooroy NOOSA H Ja ndowae EADSrequire an entry fee of $7 per day. In most Nanango Co N a mbour MAROOC ndamine ndam Bell Yarraman in however, it’s cheaper to purchase RE CALOU N HYDOcases, e Kilcoy ara DRA Bribie Is Dalby Crows an annual pass. la Bongaree nd Nest Esk C a Kumbarilla p e Lake Wiv M Cabooltu Cecil Plains enhoe re Moreto oretonThere are four types of annual passes: Oakey n Island Moreton Pittsworth Gatton Single Country Park Pass ($22), Country Bay Millmerran A IPS B B R I Parks pass ($45), Multi-Park Pass ($65) and S W B IC H OOM North S ANE Jimboom tradbroAll-Parks Pass ($190). The first three do not DARLING TOOW ba Cl ift on ke Islan Boona h DOWNS South S d tradbro Beaudeser ke include I indi entry to Kosciuszko National Park. Warwick t G O ondiw L D M C C O P Killarney H ER SO N A S Inglewood T TWEED H Camping fees range from $10-$12 per adult Yelarbon Stan RA Du E Murwillu thorpe mbah ADS m O cean Sho ar Ky ogle per night, $3-$5 per child per night while Texa s re es s Mullumbi man Bonalbo q Wallangar Cape Bmby ra yron children under the age of four are free. Bonshaw Casino Byron Ba y B a Visit www.environment.nsw.gov.au L ai ll IS in M a ORE Alstonville Tenterfield S Ashfo rd RM A N for information on specific campgrounds. Ev RA ans H Kingaroy

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A compulsory booking system was introduced a couple of years ago, which means the majority of national parks must be booked and paid for before arrival. Some popular campgrounds can be booked 12 months in advance.

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Queensland There is no entry fee to visit national parks in Queensland. However, if you plan a trip to Fraser, Moreton or Bribie Island, or Cooloola and Minjerribah recreation areas, you will need a vehicle access permit, which is essentially for driving on beaches. Visit www.nprsr.qld.gov.au for more details.

Most parks attract a camping fee: $5.75 per person per night or $23.00 per family per night (two parents and up to six children). Children under the age of five are free. The sunshine state was the first to introduce a compulsory booking system, which means you must obtain a camping permit before pitching your tent. Book campsites online at www.nprsr.qld.gov.au using the ParksQ system or call 13 QGOV (13 74 68). Depending on the camping area, you can book three to 12 months in advance. Some smaller campgrounds still have selfregistration stations.

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Most national parks in the NT do not have an entry fee and only charge for camping where fees range from $3.30-$6.60 per night or $15.40 per family per night, depending on the standard of facilities.

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Uluru – has a fee, although children younger than 16 are free. Three passes are available: Three-Day Pass ($25), Annual Individual Ticket ($32.50) or Annual Vehicle Pass ($65) (only for Northern Territory residents). The fee is payable as you enter the park.

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Northern Territory Kakadu – requires a $25 permit, which is valid for 14 consecutive days. Children under 16 are free. The easiest way to buy the pass is online at www.kakadu.com.au/ticket.

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South Australia Entry fees apply when visiting SA’s national parks. The Department of Environment and Natural Resources offers a few different options: Multi Park Pass ($90), Holiday Park Pass ($40) and a Single Park Pass ($60). Passes are valid for 12 months except for the Holiday Pass, which is valid for two months. Concession rates are available.

Natural Resources office or online at www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks or call (08) 8204 1910.

Camping is not included, but a camping option can be purchased making the Multi Park Pass ($180), the Holiday Park Pass ($80) and the Single Park Pass ($120). Camping is allowed up to five nights at a time in the designated parks. These passes do not include camping in Naracoorte Caves National Park and Wilpena Pound Resort.

Cradle Mountain has a separate entry fee: $16.50 per adult, $8.25 per child (517), under five free, $41.25 per family (two adults, three children). Concession rates are available.

The Kangaroo Island Tour Pass is $68 per adult, $42 per child aged 4-15, or $185 for a family with two adults and two children. This pass cannot be purchased online, only at a Parks Pass outlet (see www.environment.sa.gov.au for list of outlets). Please note that camping fees are not included. The Desert Parks Pass starts at $150. This pass allows camping for up to 21 nights at a time in the designated parks. For people travelling around the state, the Holiday Park Pass with camping option is a great choice because a one-off-fee of $80 enables camping in most national parks for five consecutive nights, making camping very affordable. Passes can be purchased at any Department of Environment, Water &

Tasmania A pass must be purchased for entry to national parks in Tasmania. There are three passes to choose from: Daily Pass ($24), Holiday Pass ($60) and Annual Pass ($96).

The Holiday Pass, valid for eight weeks, is the most popular option for interstate visitors. For more information visit www.parks.tas.gov.au or call 1300 TASPARKS (1300 827 727). Camping fees in most Tasmanian parks are $13 for two adults per night (children 5-17 are free), with a limit of six people per site. Fees are payable at self-registration stations or at the appropriate Parks office. Victoria There is no entry fee to visit national parks in Victoria, but there has been recent and substantial price increases in camping fees.

Camping areas that were free now cost $13 per site per night. Six people are allowed per site. These camping areas cannot be booked. The next fee category includes popular places like Great Otway NP and Cape Conran NP where it’s $37.80 per site per night and booking is compulsory.

Camping areas, like Mt Eccles and Lake Eildon, now attract a fee of $48.70 per site per night. Some of them have showers and septic toilets. You’ll have to book and pay for a site before pitching your tent. The highest fee category applies to Wilson’s Promontory at $59.20 per site per night for an unpowered site. Eight people are allowed on a site. For more information, visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au or call 13 19 63. Western Australia Visitors to the west must pay to enter most national parks and separate camping fees apply.

There are three passes to choose from: Day Entry Pass ($12), Holiday Pass ($44) and Annual All Parks Pass ($88). The Holiday Pass is valid for four weeks. Concession rates are also available, except for the Holiday Pass. Passes can be purchased via the online shop at www.dpaw.wa.gov.au, at WA Parks and Wildlife offices and selected retail outlets. A separate fee is payable for entry into Monkey Mia Reserve (adult $8.50, child 6-15 $3.20 and $17 for a family with two children). Camping fees are charged per person per night and range from $7.50-$19, depending on the facilities. Children aged between 5 and 16 are charged $2.20 per night. Bookings can be made online (though not compulsory) for Purnululu NP, Cape Range NP, Beelu NP and Lane Poole Reserve. For more information, visit www.parks.dpaw.wa.gov.au. 

Left: Crossing the SA-WA Border. Below: Honesty box at Cape Arid National Park, WA.

56 |

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Kilcowera Station A nature lover’s delight sprinkled with a sinister tale of murder. Words & images: Danielle Lancaster

It’s a long, red road into Kilcowera Station, but the drive is well worth the reward for the adventurous traveller.

arm stays in far south-western Queensland are few and far between, however Kilcowera is one to add to your list if you enjoy camping and four-wheel-driving. Located ninety kilometres south of Thargomindah near the small town of Hungerford on the border of Queensland and New South Wales, the property shares one boundary with Currawinya National Park – home of the bilby. Kilcowera at 49,000 acres was once part of the much larger Boorarra Station owned by cattle king legend Sir Sidney Kidman. Today’s owners are Toni and Greg Sherwin who have lived here for some 34 years and love to share a slice of their special outback paradise: and what a slice it is. My first afternoon on Kilcowera was spent 58 |

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on top of a stony ridge watching distant downpours of rain saturate arid lands further afield. That’s after we’d put the yabby pots in a waterhole Toni recommended and already organised our dinner. The station map showed where we could drive and offered an array of options for our stay so we eagerly started planning as the sun set and another storm passed way out yonder over another stony ridge. Our dinner of freshly cooked yabbies was relished as we sat and listened to owls hooting around us under a blanket of black dappled with millions of stars. We watched satellites cross above and falling stars plummet through the sky and of course we made a wish or two. Another big advantage with Kilcowera is that it’s dog friendly and my bluey was

loving the new camping spot as much as we were. It’s an early morning rise as we headed to Red Waterhole well before the sun was above the horizon. It’s one of the prime locations on Kilcowera for bird watching, which is an attraction that draws many to this station stay. The other is Cardenyabba Lagoon, a large expanse of water where bush campsites are available. The lagoon is part of Kilcowera Creek but on some maps you may find it as Cardenyabba Creek. Red Waterhole didn’t disappoint us. There was lots of birdlife that obviously know this station is wildlife friendly. We saw flocks of ibis, ducks, wrens, herons – the list goes on. The bird list Toni gave us has more than 150 species recorded on the station.

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Adventure from the centre to the edge with Tvan, toddler and two dogs. Words & images: Jessica & Brett Toll

A remote three-week adventure from the desert to the ocean and back along the Connie Sue and Anne Beadell Highways.

or three weeks our families nervously tracked our progress on Spot whilst we enjoyed an unforgettable family adventure. We had a three-week trip planned: south along the Connie Sue Highway to the ocean at Baxter Cliffs near Cocklebiddy; up to Kalgoorlie; and from Laverton across the Anne Beadell Highway to Ilkurlka. From Ilkurlka we would head north (with special permission from the people of Blackstone) on a private track back home to Kaltukatjara (Docker River). All in all a 4720 km (800L of diesel) trip. The journey would take myself, husband Brett, 18-month-old daughter ‘little L’, and our two cattle dogs, Ben and Binda, through some extremely remote and exciting country. The trip started with a 500-kilometre detour in the wrong direction! The roads west of Docker River had been recently closed for very important traditional men’s business. This shows how important it is to make sure you have the correct permissions and sufficient local knowledge when travelling. However, we embraced the new route, which involved heading into Voyages Ayres Rock Resort for bonus shopping and a nice meal. As the sun crept closer to the horizon we approached the Olia Chain mountain range and found a beautiful place for our first camp at its base. Bliss! We set up and headed off for a walk to explore the area and watch the sun set over a distant Kata Tjuta, Butler Dome and Foster Cliff. To our delight and surprise we found some peculiar rock ‘towers’ standing tall and proud and large boulder mounds about 150 metres from our camp. 60 |

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Warburton is the last place to buy anything until Cocklebiddy Roadhouse, which is no place to spend up big, 844 kilometres south. Here, we topped up our water, fuel and food deciding to get one more 20-litre jerry can of diesel thus giving us an additional 80 litres. This was our first remote trip with the Tvan and in the previous two days we’d used 40 litres of water; too much if we wanted to make it to Cocklebiddy. We decided to only wash the dishes once a day and sparingly wash hands. We found wet wipes are great for ‘showers’, hand washing, rinsing dishes and so much more! The Connie Sue Highway turn-off arrived quicker than expected and we had to make a U-turn because there were no signs, just an old 44-gallon drum to mark the intersection. We checked the Hema maps and it looked right so we gave it a try. Brett and I were grinning from ear to ear; we were so excited to be driving this road. A few years ago we had found it on a map and promised ourselves that we would drive it one day. The start of the Connie Sue is sand dune country with the road going between, around, up and down the dunes, but soon enough the terrain hardened and flattened out a little. According to the maps, we were nearing Mackenzie Gorge (our first point of interest) when we came to a sidetrack. I was sure the narrow, scratchy, rough track would take us to the gorge, but I was wrong – after ten minutes we arrived at a quarry! We drove another five minutes up the Connie Sue where the ground, about 20 metres to the right just dropped away. It seemed like flat land and then we were

Evading one of many washouts along the Connie Sue Highway, WA.

standing on the edge of a drop-off where, after about two to five metres (hard to tell) the gorge walls continue at another lower level for as far as the eye can see. Mackenzie Gorge is as close to the road as you would want it to be. It is bizarre, yet magnificent. Our first camp on the Connie Sue Highway was at the Hema map’s suggested camping area 100 kilometres south of the Great Central Road (one of our favourite sites). The ground was barren, flat and filled with little gibbers, yet there was enough mulga around to provide adequate shade and firewood. I collected wood and Brett sorted out the campsite while Little L helped herself to the music volume and pumped it up (lucky we had no neighbours) so she could dance away on the deck of the Tvan loving the freedom of camping and the great outdoors! On a late afternoon exploration we stumbled across a lot of little caves and scrambled to a high point to watch the sun dip below the horizon. Harkness Gorge was our first point of interest the next day, only five kilometres down the road from our campsite. It too was on the edge of the road. We watched small birds zooming through the gorge and I took Little L for an adventure walk while Brett got some snacks ready. Later, we came to the turn-off to Sydney Yeo Chasm that I had so desperately wanted to see, however we had not been able to make contact with the appropriate traditional owners for access. I was disappointed, but it is more important to respect the land and who it belongs to, fences or not. The positive was that our fuel consumption was much higher than we had anticipated, and

a detour of this size raised some economic and safety questions. We had planned to use about 18L/100km, however we were up at 22L/100km despite Brett’s efforts at conservative driving. The road was soft and windy with many washouts and dragging the Tvan fully loaded was using some diesel. The next sidetrack was to the east; a bit of a non-event and we had to do some track finding. This little detour took us past Ryan’s Bluff, a nice camp spot and an abandoned airstrip. We didn’t stop but it looked like it could have been a nice climb up a hill with an interesting view. We wondered what stories the place had to tell and what it had seen; what was the airstrip used for, by whom, how often and when? These are questions we would often ponder as we travelled through this country. If only the landscape could talk. Sykes Bluff turn-off was nine kilometres from Ryan’s Bluff turn-off. The track took us perpendicular over the north-south sand hills. Further from the Connie Sue, the hills seemed to get bigger and softer. After getting bogged for the second time we decided it was a sign to quit. A little disappointed, but we were nervous about fuel consumption. A place to visit for next time. Back on the Connie Sue, we searched for a shady tree for a lunch stop and stretch, which we enjoyed, but not as much as getting back into the airconditioned car!

Four kilometres on we passed a tiny little water tank. The opportunity for more water is one not to pass up. It was Cooper Hills Bore drilled by Shell Development in 1982, which is a solar-powered bore that pumps into a little reservoir tank. Brett had a fantastic plan to swap around some water supply and have the bore water for the dogs, but on closer inspection it was quite brown – great for a cool shower, but that was it. We set up camp for our second and third nights on the Connie Sue at Point Sandercock. Little L hitched a ride in the backpack for our cool of the morning and late afternoon forays and we explored lots of little caves and cliffs, but my favourite was an unusual ‘bay’ with significant cliff walls coloured orange, pink, purple and white. A lot of the white rock has been eroded and forms a thick soft white carpet at its base, providing a change from the red dirt for little L to play in. Back on the road we reached the Point Lilian Access Road and, after a little bit of a search, found some Aboriginal art sites. This is a special place where I imagined families gathered years ago as the children ran around happily playing. About 100 kilometres south we stopped for lunch at Neale Junction where the Connie Sue Highway intersects the Anne Beadell Highway. We had some crucial figures to crunch to decide whether to go 525

kilometres down to Cocklebiddy or make a 348-kilometre round trip detour to Ilkurlka Roadhouse to refuel. After some nail biting moments the extra diesel was transferred into the car and we decided to press on. It was now time for a bit of grown-up fun. Geocaching involves using GPS co-ordinates to find a hidden ‘treasure’. Apparently there is a geocache at Neale Junction and after walking around in circles with the iPad as a GPS I found it and was so excited! We camped here at the gorgeous Neale Breakaways for a night; white and surrounded by a salt lake. Not only is the colour a sight to behold, but the size is incredible. Anyone would think we were camped at a beach with no vegetation, only soft sand under our naked feet. Standing at the far end of the salt lake, faced by water trickling down a giant cliff face was heavenly and surreal. Neither pictures nor words can do this spot justice. Rawlinna is a bit of a navigational challenge requiring a reliable map or GPS device and a lot of gate opening and closing through private property. The road surface is quite rough and slow going. It’s Nullabor country; sparse and dry, but surprisingly with an abundance of wildlife. We continued past Rawlinna through more properties to Cocklebiddy where we set up at the roadhouse for two nights. When I asked the local guys about the track ahead they counter responded worryingly

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Last night camp with another beautiful sunset, WA.

with, ‘What vehicle do you have and do you like it?’ Adding, ‘It’s is a thirty-kilometre track that takes up to two and a half hours to get through.’ Clearly not for the faint-hearted! Apparently the track requires a high clearance four-wheel-drive and acceptance that it’ll come away with ‘racing stripes’ as it’s only wide enough for a motorbike! We eventually arrived at our goal destination – the beach, after some lowrange driving, screeching of what seemed like whole trees along the car, and tyre deflation, and couldn’t believe our eyes! From our desert home to the ocean; the centre to the edge! We’d done it! Baxter Cliffs rose over the white sand and towered

tall around the corner and into the ocean. On the way back to Cocklebiddy I got a chance to do some more geocaching at a cute little hunt spot. I found it really enjoyable and had another chance near Cocklebiddy Cave and Newman Rock to practise my new skill. Half-way point and we decided to detour to Esperance. Even though we were ‘cooped-up’ in a caravan park we stayed four nights. Beautiful coastline, white beaches, great cafes, restaurants and the ‘Adventureland Park’ where Little L loved feeding the ducks. Unfortunately, having the dogs meant we missed out on a visit to Cape Le Grande National Park. After restocking in Kalgoorlie we headed west along a less-than-spectacular section of the Anne Beadell Highway. Because of recently laid dog baits we had to travel further than expected until well inside the Cosmo Newberry reserve. Point Sunday has a nice view from the plateau at the top and the historic Yeo Homestead made a good lunch stop the next day. Our Hema maps had a point of interest 85 kilometres east of Turkey Point labelled ‘small piles of sand’ – intriguing. Turned out to be exactly as described – small piles of sand. Luckily we saw the funny side.

The camp at Neale Junction is very large with an information board, shelter and table, an empty rainwater tank (remember it is in the desert), and a toilet. For a fun little detour I highly recommend visiting the light plane wreck that is 112 kilometres beyond the junction. The road is a little tricky and we learned some lessons about towing over soft dunes. The Ilkurlka Roadhouse claims to be the most remote roadhouse in Australia. At the time there was only one lady, Robyn, who lives there and runs the roadhouse. We refuelled sparingly at $3.00/L, had lunch in the camp area and headed north on a private road to Blackstone where we checked with the local people that the 224 kilometres of road west of our home at Docker River was open. Phew! No detour this time. The mountains on the horizon began to build with familiar sights. We were close, but with just 35 kilometres left of our three-week trip the car was on empty! Much to our amusement we added the 20L jerry can into the tank and headed for home. The Petermann Range, which is viewed from our kitchen window was now in sight. As we crossed back into the Northern Territory I felt a little sad. So I thought happy thoughts about my garden and the planning of our next adventure! 

FACT FILE Jessica and Brett Toll with their twoyear-old daughter and two dogs live in a remote indigenous community in the Northern Territory and have been in and out of them since they left school seven years ago.

Getting there Len Beadell and the Gunbarrel Road Construction Party built the Connie Sue and Anne Beadell Highways in 1962. Anne Beadell Highway is named after Len’s wife. The Connie Sue Highway is named after his daughter who accompanied Len and his wife on the survey trip. Connie was just six months old and stood for the first time on the trip, which prompted Len to name the road after her.

Connie Sue Highway is 634 km and runs from Warburton Community, WA to Rawlinna, WA. Anne Beadell Highway is 1324 km and runs from Laverton, WA to Coober Pedy, SA. Access These tracks are remote and require a well-equipped four-wheel-drive. Where to camp Bush camping along the track requires full self-sufficiency as there are no facilities.

Some of the great camping locations include Point Sandercock, Point Lilian, 62 |

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They have an intense love for the outdoors and any sort of challenge or adventure.

Neale Junction, Neale Breakaways, Point Sunday, Bishop Rileys Pulpit, Ilkurlka and many more. When to go May – September when the weather is cool and the ground is dry.

In summer the temperature gets dangerously hot and often roads flood and become impassable. Winter sees night temperatures drop below zero at times, so be prepared. What to take These are remote tracks and full precautions need to be taken with spares,

repair gear, emergency communication, emergency contacts and trip plans. You must carry enough food, fuel and water and have enough for at least an extra two days in case of an emergency. Further information Permits need to be attained from WA Department of Indigenous Affairs www.dia.wa.gov.au/en/Entry-Permits

We used the Hema Great Desert Tracks Atlas Guide. For geocaching information visit www.geocaching.com

Gippsland to Darwin READER’S TRIP REPORT

Words & images: Nathan Thompson

A great opportunity came up to take a promotion and move to the tropics so, rather than fly, Nathan Thompson decided to drive from Gippsland, Victoria, to Darwin, NT and create an adventure that his sons would remember.

yself, my wife, and three sons (6, 5 and 2-years-old) made the journey, minus the dog.

I found it difficult to plan with any certainty because it was such a big trip, so I remained flexible. A resort at Ayers Rock, Wilpena Pound, the Clare Valley, and part of the Oodnadatta Track was on the list. I focused on mapping the length of each day’s travel to choose the towns to stay in. The only accommodation booked was in Portland, because it was school holidays. In total, I’d estimate that it took about four hours to plan the route. Safety, Communication and Spares Water: I allowed for a possible three days without water and took an extra 60 litres.

Fuel: There is plenty of fuel along the way, but the price escalates! I took a 20L jerry can for ‘cheap’ fuel to save money and a 5L can for emergencies. Food: I carried emergency rations for two days in the form of noodles and some dry ration packs. Communications: I hired a satellite phone (www.epirbhire.com.au) at $200 for two weeks, which was sent to our accommodation in the Clare Valley (as we’d have mobile reception up to this point), and I returned it via post from Darwin 12 days later. Mechanical: We have a near-new car, so I organised a ‘confidence’ check prior to departure from the dealer. New tyres and wheels for the camping trailer were purchased and I increased the rim size to match the car, giving me four spares. A lot of unnecessary gear (weight) was removed from the camper trailer because I wanted it light and roomy.

The Most Important Considerations Checking the trailer each morning for any problems.

Ensuring the family was prepared for the heat with long-sleeved light clothing, broad brimmed hats and plenty of water on hand. Original Trip Plan Gippsland – Great Ocean Road – Portland – Robe – Clare – Wilpena Pound – Marree – William Creek – Coober Pedy – Ayers Rock – Alice Springs – Daly Waters – Darwin. Actual Trip Not finding as much at Robe, we found a gem of a campsite at Wrights Bay. Similarly, the weather changed so we stayed at a motel in Adelaide.

I had planned to do 750 km from Coober Pedy to Ayers Rock in one day. However, it seemed silly to arrive at an expensive resort late in the evening. We decided to arrive at Coober Pedy at dinner time to allow time to explore the next day and drive a few hours north in the afternoon, halving the distance to Ayers Rock. We stayed at the Kulgera Roadhouse, which was a good little stop with cheap cabin accommodation (because it was raining!). We arrived at the resort by 1.30 pm and enjoyed the afternoon in the pool. Another impromptu change was the decision to go Kings Canyon and the Mereenie Loop Road to Alice Springs and we found an absolute treasure in the West McDonnell Ranges. Expecting the Unexpected There were so many advantages of doing the trip in the reverse season. We didn’t compete for accommodation or space! Our boys are loud and not being worried about other campers meant that we could let them

Above: Devils marbles at dusk, trying to capture the spectacular colours.

run their energy off after being in the car all day, and there was less traffic everywhere. The trade-off was the heat – and it wasn’t so hot! We planned to travel in the hot part of the day and choose camping spots wisely. However, we were able to walk around all morning at Uluru and The Olgas, stop and enjoy Lake Eyre, and walk through Wilpena Pound. It’s worth noting that there are less services during the summer; the Parachilna Hotel was closed and the Marree Hotel had a reduced menu. And, two weeks after we went through Alice, the northern roads were all cut with floodwaters! The road between Blinman and Parachilna was an unexpected scenic treat. A good graded dirt road with lots of slow turns that follow creeks and gorges down from a high point near Blinman to the flat outback at Parachilna. We also enjoyed lots of country pubs and their local characters. Free camping opportunities were a surprise. As was the landscape, which we expected to be barren and boring, but it was interesting and colourful. The other thing that surprised us was the amount of landscape in the outback; we’d assumed it was flat, sandy and boring. But there are ancient ridgelines throughout and the ochre colours are amazing. Travelling Time In the first half of the trip we aimed for about six hours in the car between accommodation places, which, with rest stops, was about four hours’ driving. Overall, we averaged 350 km each day as we stopped to look at lots of things in the southern part of the country. It only took 15 minutes to get the GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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tent set up, so I was willing to arrive at camp just prior to dinner allowing more time for breaks during the day and sightseeing.

towns we went through: It’s confronting to see people in these towns with, what seems, no hope and no future.

After Marree, the average daily travel was closer to 500 km because there was less to spend time seeing in the outback and we were staying at places where we could get away earlier or arrive later. We completed the 1600 km from West McDonnell Ranges to Darwin in three days.

Fortunately there were no disasters although, if I had my time again, I’d stick to the Riesling Trail while bicycle touring. We went off on a dirt road searching for the Pike River Winery, which we found after traversing a very steep, long hill! My children did well walking their bikes up it, but my wife was not amused…

Wye River BIG4 Caravan Park

Fire bans in the south of South Australia were disappointing, as we’d stocked up on firewood and told the boys we would be cooking marshmallows.

RTCV Cottages

Travelling with the Kids We had a stand-alone DVD player in the car with screens mounted behind the front seats, which was limited to ‘boring’ times only and programs were not allowed to be too active or violent. We also had books and colouring books, which were used more after our littlest boy broke his screen 1000 km into the journey, and then the other screen broke with 1000 km to go! Without the movies we talked more – kid talk, but entertaining! Food and Provisions To keep weight down we planned and bought meal provisions day-by-day until we got to the remote areas where we stocked up for a few days. We decided to eat out for one meal a day and have sandwich-making items. I’m very proud to say that we did not get ‘fast food’ once on the trip, which was one of our goals!

Our camping staples, in addition to the usual barbeque, were spaghetti bolognaise and pesto pasta. We carried noodles and dry rations for emergencies, so we ate these on the last night to use up all the supplies. Our Top Five Places to Camp and Visit Flinders Ranges: Spectacular. The road between Blinman and Parachilna was the most interesting 30 km of dirt I’ve ever driven. Being able to camp at the Wilpena Pound Resort enabled us to use the pool, which was welcome in the South Australian heat.

Mt Gambier: The blue lake is beautiful; the people were lovely and we wished we’d spent more time there. Voyages Sails in the Desert Resort: Pricey, but very nice and a great base from which to see Uluru and The Olgas in the hot weather. West McDonnell Ranges: Fascinating with breathtaking views. Next time we’ll go to the Glen Helen Resort with nicer clothes than our dirty camping ones! This is a really nice restaurant, about an hour from Alice Springs. Disappointments and Disasters Mataranka, Elliot, and several of the NT

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What You’d Change if you Do it Again I’d research the towns around where we planned to stay a bit more so we could change the plan if necessary prior to arriving.

I wished I’d looked into more accommodation options in Mataranka whilst we were in Tennant Creek so I didn’t have to rush into the first place we saw. (I’d used half an hour helping a bloke on the side of the road, which cut into my available time on arrival).

Name

Portland Bay Holiday Park Wrights Bay Bush Camping, Mt Benson, SA Country Comfort Adelaide

Wilpena Pound Resort camp ground Marree Hotel Mud Hut Motel Coober Pedy

Kulgera Roadhouse Hotel

Voyages Ayers Rock Resort

Glen Helen Resort campground Karlu Karlu or Devils Marbles Conservation Reserve Mataranka Roadhouse

I’d also call ahead everywhere that I planned meals based on somewhere being open. I did this with Marree and William Creek, but should have also done it with Parachilna because the hotel was closed for the summer. Budget and Cost I didn’t have a tight budget, but didn’t really want to spend more than $7000. Overall we spent $6570, although this sum could have been reduced easily.

Total fuel cost was $916.84. Accommodation $2150, and here is the place for savings. I wanted to stay at the nice resort at Ayers Rock, to break the trip up, and here we spent about $2000. Similarly, $245 at Coober Pedy was a result of us getting in a bit late and not researching all options fully. The $180 per night at the Riesling Trail Clare Valley Cottages was excellent value and money well spent. If we had camped all the time, the accommodation figure could have been down below $600, whilst camping and having a few nights in a cabin/motel would take this to $1000. Planning to use accommodation allows for a few longer driving days. In my estimation, without scrimping too much, the total figure could be brought down below $4500 quite easily. 

Above: The boys pose in front of the Devils Marbles. Below: Our setup at the Devils Marbles at dusk.

Trip Accommodation Value for money

Cleanliness

Amenities/facilities

Contact

Acceptable - $60 for an unpowered site was the most I’ve ever paid, but the location is great

Very good

(03) 5289 0241 www.big4wyeriver.com.au

Fair - $36 for an unpowered site. Great location above the beach.

Very good

Basic - playground, no camp kitchen

1800 622 005 www.portlandbayhp.com.au

Good - $8 for unpowered camping on the beach

Clean enough - the toilets are very old.

Toilets and rubbish collection only

LOT 259 Wright Road, Mount Benson SA 5275

Very good - $115 for a family room on south terrace

Very good

Swimming pool, large park across the road

(08) 8223 2800

Very good - $180 per night for 2 adjoined cottages

Excellent

All. Right on the Riesling Trail, bike hire available across the road

0427 842 232 www.rtcvcottages.com.au

Good - $27 night for unpowered site

Good

Swimming pool, toilets and showers, plenty of bush walks

(08) 8648 0048 www.wilpenapound.com.au

Awesome - free

Good, but old

Swimming pool, basic toilets and showers, fire pit

www.marreehotel.com.au (08) 8675 8344

Low - $245 for a 2 bed apartment

Very good

No pool, room was kitted out well

(08) 8672 3003 www.mudhutmotel.com.au

Alright for the outback - $115 for an old motel-style room, would have been $15 for unpowered camping.

Fine, clean. This was one of the better rest stops we saw, definitely fine to plan to stay here.

Pool, air con, roadhouse has extensive range of products

(08) 8956 0973

$330 per night for family-style room with balcony. Meals and tours are equally expensive.

Excellent

Great pool, very nice restaurant, well-appointed room

1300 134 044 www.ayersrockresort.com.au

$30 for unpowered camping

Alright - the showers smelt bad and there was no hot water

The view is what you pay for here - right on the gorge. Swimming pool.

(08) 8956 7489 www.glenhelen.com.au

Very good - $7.70 family camping

Only one drop toilet clean enough.

Drop toilet only, take own rubbish out, bring own water.

www.parksandwildlife.nt.gov.au (08) 8962 4599

Low - $110 for a tiny porta hut room

Good

Need own cups for tea in room, roadhouse serves good-sized meals

(08) 8975 4571

The BaseCamp™ mattress is the straight forward workhorse of self-inflating car camping comfort. It’s built in the USA to last with our time tested materials and construction, providing years of reliable warmth, support and comfort. A thickness of 5cm in comfort when inflated and rolls up compactly for transport. Available in Regular, Large and X-Large sizes. Includes stuffsac. 02 9966 9800 GOCAMP_TAR_Apr15.indd 1

sales@spelean.com.au

www.spelean.com.au 6/03/15 1:51 PM GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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Mars Campers Soft Top Ranger

Words: Megan Blandford Images: Mars Campers, Matthew Faul

atthew and Jacinta Faul are long-time campers who love getting out into the Victorian bush for a break from reality. For years they used a DIY setup: a trailer packed with their tent, cooking gear and day shelter. After years of dreaming of a better option, six months ago they finally took the plunge and invested in a Mars camper trailer. Getting away with their three children – aged 13, 11 and six – is now easier than ever. Doing the research To find out what was on the market and

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what would best suit the family, Matthew, a police officer from Melbourne, hit the world wide web. ‘I was looking for something that was all-terrain with a bit of off-road capability,’ he explained. ‘I wanted an awning out the front, and size and storage were big factors.’ His online searches went on for months, at every possible opportunity, until he landed on the Mars website … and it was a case of camper love at first sight. What won them over? For Matthew, the final decision came down to, not just the right camper at the right price, it was also about convenience.

‘Mars’ location is near home and work, so I dropped in to have a look. I saw straight away exactly what I was after.’ While looking over the camper trailer he ticked off the “checklist of deciding factors” in his mind: storage for gas bottles, jerry can holders, good kitchen setup, large toolbox, a good-sized tent for his family, and a power pack to run all their 12-volt appliances. ‘We’re now self-sufficient and we can go to non-powered sites comfortably,’ Matthew says happily. Being new to the camper trailer world, however, Matthew felt there were a few

Clockwise from left: The Mars camper ticks all the boxes for an adventurous family.  Handy external tap.  LED lights. ❖ 7 leaf springs.

About Mars Campers Since 2006, Mars Campers have built camper trailers using imported and locally supplied components with a vision to build a quality camper at an affordable price.

The company’s priority is customer satisfaction and continuous improvement based on customer feedback. Mars Campers is proud to be 100% Australian owned and operated. They have stores in Victoria, NSW, SA and Queensland. Telephone 1300 667 868 or visit www.marscampers.com.au

things he wasn’t too clear on and getting the help he needed in the showroom made his purchase decision even easier. ‘I was new to the camper trailer game and was asking lots of silly questions, but they were quite open to me asking anything. They were really good right from the start and showed me how everything worked.’ Performance One small issue became apparent on delivery of the camper: the poles were slightly bent. Matthew says the after-sales support was exactly as he hoped. ‘It was just a matter of dropping the poles in at

the factory and they were replaced straight away without question,’ he says, clearly relieved. After that it was simply a case of getting away to experience their new homeaway-from-home and, he adds, ‘It’s really comfortable to tow!’ Getting used to their new setup was a lot of fun for the Faul family, even though it took a bit of time on their first outing. ‘My first go at setting it up was a ripper!’ Matthew laughs. ‘It took me nearly two hours. If you’ve never done it before it can be tricky, but after a few practices I’ve certainly shortened that and

I’ve got a system happening now.’ Apparently, the most helpful thing was taking on the advice of others who have done it all before. ‘I got tips from other campers at the campsite, so it was good to get that assistance.’ And now? Matthew says it’s all smooth sailing, taking him just 40 minutes for the full multi-room setup, including the annex. The Fauls are loving playing around with their new gadgets and getting more and more comfortable with the whole setup. They’ve sorted out the best way to store their gear and have found, as Matthew says, GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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‘There’s room to spare.’ Words that are rarely heard from a family of five heading off for a camping trip and carrying everything – including the kitchen sink. The kitchen is much-loved: ‘It has a swing-out tailgate with a stainless steel drawer, sink and bench space on top. I put the gas cooker on top of that and run a hose line to the gas bottle,’ Matthew explains. Hearty meals, suited to days out in the fresh air, don’t take too long to serve up these days. Victorian weather – the ultimate test Melbourne weather, they say, can cover every season in a matter of hours – and the same can be said throughout most of Victoria. While camping at the Nagambie Lakes (130 km from Melbourne), Matthew, Jacinta and the kids experienced two extremes in the one trip. A heat wave one day, followed by 24 hours solid of heavy rain, their new camper trailer was certainly put through its first test. Not expecting the rain, they hadn’t yet waterproofed the canvas, so the five of them were feeling pretty nervous as the downpour hit. ‘It held up brilliantly,’ Matthew raves, ‘even in the torrential downpour, and

it had just a few minor incursions, which would have happened in anything.’ Being a seasoned camper, Matthew is looking on the bright side: ‘That experience actually helped waterproof it!’ Optional extras While extras are available on the Mars camper, Matthew says the only one they went with was the inner-spring mattress for the main bed. ‘It’s really comfortable and we get a good night’s sleep,’ he says, adding that it’s one of the most important aspects of camping for them. The sleeping quarters is the big difference they’ve found between their original DIY setup and their new camper, which Matthew says is due to being elevated rather than sleeping on the ground. As for the other extras, the Fauls felt everything else that mattered to them was covered in the base model. ‘The model we got is quite well set up without having to pay for any extras. It’s got everything covered.’ The only thing left on their wish-list now is some solar panels to help boost selfsufficiency. The final wrap Quite simply, the Mars camper trailer

ticks all the boxes for this family. ‘It’s got two jerry can holders, two gas bottle holders, a power pack, a 70-litre water tank underneath with an electric pump on the outside for water, and an electric pump for the kitchen sink,’ Matthew explains. He believes it suits their family really well because there’s plenty of space for everyone to sleep and spend time inside during the day if the weather requires shelter. He feels that it’s suited to smaller families and couples too because of its versatility of layout. ‘You have the main room and the awning, plus the extra room, or the awning could be an extra room if you need it; it’s very versatile.’ This ticked a few more boxes for the Fauls because of their growing children and eventual change in family holidays. Because of their new camper, the Fauls find it easier to get away as a family nowadays. Their next challenge is to take on some longer trips and their sights are set on a coastal trip to Queensland. Matthew says they’re really living the dream and they can’t wait to experience that freedom even more: ‘It’s got everything we need to do that long trip.’ 

Ranger Soft Top SPECIFICATIONS Chassis and Build: 70mm x 50mm x 3mm Hot dip galvanised and Hammertone powder coated Suspension: 7 leaf spring eye to eye with bump stopper and shocks Brakes: Electric – 10” drum Coupling: Treg style. Rated 2000kg Tyres: 235/75/R15 Water: 70l Stainless Steel Tank and 2 Jerry Can Holders Tare weight: 750kg Canvas: Waterproof 14oz Rip Stop Floor size: Main tent 2.2m x 5.3m, Room 2 2.4m x 5.3m, Room 3 2.4m x 5.3m Windows: All around the camper ranging from 1.75m x 1.3m to 1m x 1.30m Mattress: Standard foam or optional inner spring (1.65m x 2.1m) Tonneau: PVC with zip all around and Velcro on both ends

Top to bottom:

Product Support: Lifetime

The Mars Soft Top Ranger – compact and easy to tow.  The awnings provide plenty of ventilation and protection from the elements.

Warranty: 12 months on the tent and trailer

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Discover Australia

VIC Melbourne Factory/ShowRoom 7/1695 Centre Road, Springvale, VIC 3171 1300 667 868 Patto RV 166 -168 Bellarine Hwy, Moolap, VIC 3244 03 5248 0138 RV & Caravan Centre 182 Raglan Parade, Warrnambool, VIC 3280 03 5561 0033 Caravan Crescent 107 Stawell Road, Horsham VIC 3400 03 5382 4100 Blue Sky Swan Hill Shop 4/5 McNeil Court, Swan Hill, VIC 3585 03 5033 2218

Ian Grant’s Caravans 5357 Princes Hwy, Taralgon West, VIC 3844 03 5174 1381

Brisbane Factory/Showroom 74 Compton Road, Underwood, QLD 4114 07 3386 0498 Hervey Bay Caravans 41-13 Main St, Pialba Hervey Bay, QLD 4655 07 4128 1777 Cars Galore 129 Herries St, Toowomba, QLD 4350 0418 157 586

QLD

NSW

Lyal Eales Stores 29 Maryborough Dunolly Rd, Maryborough, VIC 3465 03 5461 4222 Gippsland Caravan Centre 35 Princes Hwy, Stratford, VIC 3862 1300 667 868

Oasis Camping Brisbane 662 Beaudesert rd, Salisbury, QLD 4107 1300 729 204 Oasis Camping Townville 15 - 62 Keane Street, Townsville, QLD 4812 1300 729 204

Macarthur Caravans & RVs 1/26 Grahams Hill Rd, Narellan, NSW 2567 1300 667 217 Caravans Coffs Coast 186 Pacific Hwy, Coffs Harbour, NSW 2450 02 6652 5523

Houlihan’s Caravan & RV 605 Ebden St, Albury, NSW 2640 1300 720 196 Blue Sky Griffith 1 Railway Street, Griffith, NSW 2680 02 6964 0844 Moama Auto & Marine 75 Meninya Street, Moama, NSW 2731 0427 353 678 The Caravan Company 239A Old Maitland Road, Hexham, NSW 2322 0427 353 678 Postie’s Caravan 24 Brissett St Inverell, NSW 2360 0417 584 155

SA Matt’s Extreme Outdoors 491 Grand Junction Rd, Wingfield, SA 5013 1300 687 155 Northern Caravans 37 Wandearah rd, Port Pirie, SA 5540 08 8632 3442 EP Campers 548 Western Approach Rd, Duck Ponds, SA 5607 08 8682 4060

TAS Tasmanian RVs 50 Loop Rd, Cambridge, TAS 7170 03 6248 5638

1300 667 868 Please visit our website for complete range of campers

WWW.MARSCAMPERS.COM.AU

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Campcraft Corner

Utensil-Free Cooking

Words & images: Aris & Annette Dennis

How to cook delicious meals in the bush without pots, pans or tongs.

or the past few years we have been exploring the concept of utensil-free cooking while out in the bush. The challenge of cooking up a tasty spread with minimal resources has always been our interest. We like to think back to what cooking was like before the introduction of metal cooking vessels. How did people not only cook their food, but make it appetising as well?

We’ve taken inspiration from some our favourite ‘kitchen’ recipes and have transformed them into gourmet bush meals that anybody can prepare. All you need is a fixed blade knife with a tang that runs the entire length of the handle, which is useful for splitting sticks and making skewers. We use Mora knives (www.moraknives.org) and highly recommend them. Let’s explore how to make breakfast, lunch and dinner – utensil-free!

BREAKFAST Bacon and Eggs on Toast There’s no need to carry a frying pan or camp-toaster with you when out on a trip. This delicious meal is easy to prepare and, like all utensil-free meals, requires no washing up!

Adjust the cooking rack to a suitable height over coals.

By weaving a cooking rack from flexible sticks, you can cook bacon and toast over the coals of a fire.

‘Boiling’ the eggs is all too easy. Once your fire has burned down to a good coal base, bury the eggs in hot grey ash surrounding the coals, allowing the top to protrude. To prevent the eggs bursting during cooking, knock a small hole in the top with the tip of your knife (this prevents any potential ‘eggsplosions’). Cooking time will depend on how you like your eggs, but allow 20 minutes for a good firm egg.

Adjust a cooking rack: we use a ‘Y’ stick jammed into the ground or anchored on one end, to a suitable height over the coals and place the bacon on top. Once crispy, turn it over to cook on the other side.

When the bacon, eggs and toast are ready, enjoy with your condiment of choice!

When your bacon is ready you can use the same cooking rack to toast the bread.

Weave a rack with flexible sticks.

Start with a flexible stick that forms a ‘Y’ shape (like a sling-shot). They can be dead or green, but be aware of the rules of the land on which you are on in terms of taking vegetation. Weave the ends together so that it forms a tennis racket shape. You can now weave the other pieces of the rack into place for a perfect cooking platform. 70 |

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Use the rack to cook toast.

Puncture the top to avoid an eggsplosion!

Perfect bush bacon and eggs – no washing up.

Chicken roasting over the coals.

LUNCH Butterflied Chicken with Baked Sweet Potato and Honey Cinnamon Butter Preparation Required

The chicken Preparation is done at home. You will want to do this the day before to allow the flavours to develop overnight. Use any seasonings you like, but this marinade is our favourite. Butterfly the chicken (search a YouTube tutorial for instructions on how to do this if you don’t know) and slide your fingers under the skin to loosen it, creating pockets between the flesh and skin. Rinse the chicken well and pat it dry with a clean tea towel. Set aside. In a large mortar, bash up three cloves of garlic, two teaspoons of black peppercorns, and three teaspoons of sea salt into a reasonably fine paste. With a teaspoon, mix in three heaped teaspoons of smoked paprika, half a cup of finely chopped coriander and ¼ cup of olive oil. Rub this all over the chicken, including the flesh under the skin. Finely slice a lemon and place the slices in all the pockets of skin you made earlier. They will stay put between the flesh and skin.

in a bowl, add a tablespoon of honey and a teaspoon of ground cinnamon. Whip it up really well with a fork and put it into a small container to take with you. Allow one tablespoon of butter per person. The sweet potato requires no preparation; we allow one small potato per person. Method In order to roast a chicken over a good coal base you have to have a secure means of suspending it.

The first step is to carve two or three good skewers. These can be pushed through the chicken to hold it open. The next step is to choose a good sturdy stick about 1.5 metres (five foot) long and about three or four centimetres in diameter. By splitting the stick along half its length, we can now position the chicken between the split. Once the chicken is in place, use a piece of string or bark to tie the split stick closed. This prevents the chicken from sliding around during cooking. Now that your chicken is ready, it can be

suspended over the coals. The height of the chicken above the coals will depend on how hot they are and how much wind you are battling. Rotate the chicken every five minutes to ensure even cooking. The cooking time will be dependent on the size and heat of the coals, the wind and the thickness of the chicken. While your chicken is cooking, you can bake the sweet potatoes. Bury the sweet potatoes in the hot coals of the fire. Make sure that the oxygen can’t get to them, or they will burn. You will have to check on the potato-progress every so often, but they will feel soft once they have cooked. When removed from the fire, the potato skin will be blackened. Slice open with a sharp knife to reveal perfectly baked golden potatoes. Once the chicken and sweet potato are ready, top the sweet potatoes with the butter and enjoy.

Put in an airtight container or large zip-lock bag and pop in the fridge overnight. Keep the chicken in a suitable cooler when you take it into the bush to ensure it’s kept at a low temperature. Be sure to practise good food-safety when storing and handling chicken, especially in the bush. We also use food-handling gloves at all times when preparing the chicken while we’re camping. The honey cinnamon butter This couldn’t be easier – put three heaped tablespoons of softened margarine or butter

Delicious chicken and sweet potato.

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DINNER Roasted Trout with Garlic Herb Mussels and Ashcakes Preparation Required

The trout and mussels You will need a whole rainbow trout for this recipe. At home you can clean it, remove the head and slice it down the middle to butterfly it. Allow as many mussels as you wish, ensure they are scrubbed well and beards are removed.

fish cooks, baste it with the garlic and herb butter. If you don’t have a basting brush, you can make a natural alternative, which does a great job. As always, ensure that the materials you use are safe for use on food and that the area you’re visiting doesn’t prohibit the gathering of foliage. Depending on the thickness of the fish, it will take anywhere between 10 and 20 minutes to cook.

Mussels are ideal for cooking outdoors as they come in their own cooking container. Push the base of the mussels into the hot coals to cook – they will only take a few minutes and are ready when they are fully open. Remove from the coals and spoon some of the garlic butter into them. Once the butter has melted, they are ready to eat.

Remember to keep the seafood cool until you are ready to cook it. The garlic herb butter In a large mortar, bash up two cloves of garlic and two teaspoons of sea salt to a fine paste. Add three tablespoons of softened butter and use a teaspoon to mix well. Add two tablespoons of fresh herbs, we like to use dill and chives for this recipe. Mix well and store in a container to take in the bush. The ashcakes Put one cup of flour, ½ a teaspoon of salt, two teaspoons of baking powder and one tablespoon of butter in a food processor. Blitz for a few seconds until you have a sand-like consistency. Place in a large ziplock bag. When you are ready to make the ashcakes, add a little water at a time to the bag to form the dough, massaging the bag from the outside to incorporate the water into the mixture (mess free!).

Mussels come in their own cooking container. Natural basting brush.

Basting with garlic and herb butter.

Suspend the fish above the coals and turn regularly to ensure even cooking. As the

Ashcakes – cooked in the ash.

As you can see, utensil-free bush cooking can be both easy and delicious. If you choose to take paper plates along with you, they can be easily burned or placed in the rubbish bag. No washing up required! We always keep an eye on fire restrictions in our area to fully enjoy our bush cooking. We also ensure we use non-poisonous plant materials and clean up our fire site after use. We hope you’ll give these recipes a try and enjoy them as much as we do.

Roasting trout takes up to 20 minutes.

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Once you have prepared the dough, divide it into four to five portions and roll into balls, flattening each one in the palm of your hand. Place these directly on the hot white ashes of the fire, turning after a couple of minutes. They are ready when they are golden brown and firm to touch. Dust off excess ash before eating. Serve the trout with the mussels and ashcakes on the side. 

It is ready when the dough comes away easily from the sides of the bag. You want a smooth dough that isn’t too sticky. Method A fresh rainbow trout can be roasted over the coals using the same split stick and skewer method as the chicken. Push two carved skewers through the fish and wedge it between a split stick before tying it off to prevent further movement.

Ashcakes are a delicious and easy way to eat bread in the bush. Requiring very little preparation, the result is tender, crumbly bread that is the perfect accompaniment to this meal.

Whether it’s bush cooking, camping, carving, or practising bow-drill fire lighting, Aris and Annette Dennis are out in the bush every chance they get.

POD Trailer

“For Gardening, Camping and Getting Away”

RRP $5,145

SPECIFICATIONS:

n n n n n

6 x 4 ft internal External – 3.8m L x 1.8W x 1. 4H Tare only 200kgs Max total 750kg without brak es 8mm thick rust proof tubs

(not including bike and kayak racks) Includes side mounted jerry can holders. Delivery and On Roads not included.

Winner of Australian plastics award ARMA Removable, weatherproof locking lid Hot dipped galvanised chassis Australian designed and made Off-road models available Camper trailer models now available

See videos and reviews at www.podtrailer.com or call 1300 725 712

Get Off Road with Phil

Air Compressors Words & images: Phil Bianchi

ow that you’ve bought your four-wheel-drive, an air compressor and a tyre gauge should be amongst your first equipment purchases. Don’t rush in. Research what’s available and buy a quality compressor with a hose long enough to reach all four wheels.

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There are a number of air compressor systems on the market. Some are portable and come in a fishing tackle-like box or canvas carry bag and are connected to power via alligator clips. Some compressors are bolted in and connected permanently in the vehicle. Another type, also vehicle mounted, is the conversion of a 12-volt vehicle airconditioning compressor for use in tyre inflation. A portable air compressor can be moved from the vehicle and used to pump up the tyres on a caravan or camper trailer without the need of extra long airline. When buying an air compressor don’t only consider the output in litres per minute, as promoted by retailers. Also consider the duty cycle, which is how long an air compressor will run before it switches itself off to prevent overheating or damage. I was recently looking through some junk mail and came across a national automotive store brochure that listed a number of different air compressors of the same brand. I compared two of them. One was priced at $189.00, was rated at 100 litres per minute and had a duty cycle of 40 minutes. Another was priced at $229, was rated at 150 litres per minute and had a duty cycle of 15 minutes. The 72-litre compressor is the better device here; although it doesn’t have the higher output as the other it will operate almost three times longer before the thermal cut-off switch operates, and it’s cheaper. You wouldn’t want to be pumping up the tyres trackside on a hot day and half way through the third tyre the compressor switches off. The wait seems like an eternity before the compressor can be switched on again to continue pumping, but it cuts out

would be better off going to a camping store and purchasing a high volume low pressure air pump, which are relatively inexpensive. There are a number of vehicle-mounted air compressors that have small built-in air tanks. The small tanks are usually required for the activation of air control diff locks and don’t provide any additional benefit when inflating tyres. Four-wheel-drivers that do lots of trips Other factors to consider are: to remote areas should consider fitting a  warranty period, some offer five-year larger air tank. An air tank will assist greatly warranty on their compressors if you need to reseat a tyre after a puncture  can the compressor be serviced and are repair or if the tyre has dislodged itself from spare parts available the rim. On my previous four-wheel-drive I  what is the quality of the airline and fittings had a 15 litre tank plumbed to an on-board  some air chucks clip onto the valve, ARB air compressor. This system re-seated many tyre beads over the years. others require you to stand by the tyre In my current vehicle I have a vehicle and continually press the air chuck onto airconditioning compressor air-on-board the valve. Without doubt the clip-on air tyre inflation system that is very fast, chuck is the better of the two because it doesn’t have a duty cycle problem, and enables you to keep both hands free and is connected to a 15-litre air tank. Not only not be bending over do I have sufficient air volume to reseat tyre  do not purchase any air compressor beads, I can also run air tools and use an that comes with cigarette lighter-type air gun to blow dust out of the vehicle or connections. Quality air compressors to clean air filters and other components draw 25 amps or higher, cigarette lighter when in the bush. plugs cannot cope with such high current I can’t stress enough that you should draw buy a high quality air compressor and tyre  poor quality 12-volt cables and battery gauge. If you are a solo vehicle in a remote connections will result in electrical location and your cheap air compressor resistance, an overheated cable and fails, you could be in a serious predicament. possibly burning out a fuse. The old adage: ‘buy cheap buy twice’ is Some air compressors come with certainly true in this case. The same goes fittings to enable other items to be inflated for a tyre gauge. A cheap tyre gauge could such as air mattresses. While vehicle air be inaccurate or fail at a critical moment. I compressors can do this, they aren’t really spent $45.00 on a Polyair Spring tyre gauge suitable for the task because they are highmore than 20 years ago; it has never failed. pressure and low-volume compressors. You See you in the bush.  again before completing the fourth tyre; a most frustrating situation. Be aware of the duty cycle. You should also be aware that, although a compressor may be rated at, say, 100 litres per minute, this rating usually applies when the tyre is completely flat. As pressure builds inside a tyre the output rating reduces by as much as 25 – 30 per cent at 30 psi/200 kpa.

Clockwise from far left: A well set up 4WD ensures safe travel in the outback.  Accuracy in air pressure prevents tyre failure.  A good compressor is essential.  Author’s vehicle showing position of airconditioner and ARB diff lock compressors.  Where would you be without a compressor?

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Proudly brought to you by

LOVE the LAMB

Sweet and succulent lamb is always a camping winner. Spice it up with curry, blend it Italian-style, or enjoy the flavour of grandma’s favourite recipe. Words & images: Julie Bishop & Regina Jones

Lamb & Olive Rissoles – Makes 12

This recipe uses bread and milk to bind the ingredients instead of an egg.

Ingredients: n n n n n n n n n n

750 g lamb mince 2 thick slices of bread 1/3 cup milk 1 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp basil concentrate 1/2 cup tasty cheese, grated 1 tbsp dried parmesan cheese 1/3 cup kalamata olives, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, crushed salt ‘n’ pepper to taste

Sauce: Two cans Ardmona Duo herb tomatoes, ½ cup of quality red wine.

Method: Pull apart bread and soak in milk then mix all rissole ingredients together and shape into balls. Cook on a BBQ plate. Put sauce ingredients into pre-heated camp oven stirring to blend wine and tomatoes. Carefully place the rissoles in sauce mixture and simmer gently until liquid partly reduces. Serve rissoles topped with sauce. A tasty accompaniment is cooked pasta mixed with baby spinach. Dream-Pot: Heat sauce in Dream-Pot, add raw rissoles. Bring back to boil and simmer for 10 mins covered. Place in Dream-Pot for minimum 30 minutes. The advantage of using the Dream-Pot is you can cook this meal early, before Happy Hour, and serve hot later when ready.

Visit our website www.gocampingaustralia.com.au for more recipe ideas

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CSR Lamb Shanks

– Serves 4

This recipe is for a large Dream-Pot or an electric slow cooker only because lamb shanks are absolutely awesome when they are so tender the meat falls off the bone. Yum!

Ingredients: n 4 medium lamb shanks n 1/2 cup seasoned flour n Oil for frying n 8 medium whole potatoes, peeled n 4 carrots, halved lengthwise n 4 whole onions with skin on n 1 tbsp Vegeta gourmet stock powder n 2 litres hot water or more n Pinch of dried rosemary and thyme n Pinch of dried tomato and herb blend

Curried White Sauce Lamb Sausages – Makes enough for 6

Ingredients: n 8 lamb sausages n 3 tbsp butter or margarine n 3 tbsp plain flour n 3 tsp curry powder n 4 cups milk n salt ‘n’ pepper to taste

Method: Barbecue, grill or fry sausages. While they are cooking prepare sauce. Melt butter in large saucepan, stir in flour and curry powder, cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and slowly stir in milk, return to heat stirring until thickened. Use a whisk to stir; it makes it easier to blend the flour before it forms any lumps.

Method: Heat fry pan with oil. Place the seasoned flour in a freezer bag. One at a time coat the shanks in flour and put in fry pan. Brown shanks evenly and place in six-litre Dream-Pot. Fry the carrots and potato in meat juices until partially cooked and put to one side. Dissolve the stock powder in some hot water and pour into pot. Add more hot water until shanks are covered. Add dried herbs. Bring the large inner pot to the boil and simmer at gentle boil for 25 minutes. Add the onions, carrots and potatoes to Dream-Pot and bring back to gentle boil for a further 5 minutes. Place inner pot into Dream-Pot. Minimum cooking time 5 hours. Handy Hint: Prepare the lamb shanks in Dream-Pot after lunch and it is ready to serve that evening. If travelling that day then prepare in the morning. We ate ours 11 hours after preparation and it was still hot! Dream-Pot is best placed in a stable position while travelling.

Season with salt and pepper. Cut sausages into bite-size pieces, mix with sauce. Serve with rice and peas. Handy Hint: Use the Dream-Pot to make sauce, add the cooked sausages and gently boil for one minute. Place inner pot in the Dream-Pot and serve anytime an hour or two later when ready. Flavour is fantastic!

EASTER – MOTHER’S DAY SPECIAL! A Woman’s Look at Camping Cook Book has simple recipes that are a creative new taste twist for camping. Two copies for $50, including postage and handling, in Australia (one for home & one for camping) or $29.95 each www.wlacamping.info E-mail: AWomansLook@bigpond.com for payment details.

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Compiled by Andrea Ferris Wearable Leatherman Tread™, the world’s first wearable multi-tool houses 25 tools on your wrist in a highly durable, hardened 17-4 stainless steel bracelet, clasped comfortably to accommodate any wrist size and fully customisable. Allen wrenches, screwdrivers and cutting hooks are available at a moment’s notice, among other much-loved original Leatherman tools that can be attached and detached. Leatherman will also launch the Tread™ QM1, a removable watch version water resistant up to 200 metres. Both come with a 25-year guarantee, are TSA approved, and are created with the utmost craftsmanship and durability. Available in leading outdoor retailers across Australia in May (and September for the watch) for RRP $250 and RRP $740, respectively. For more information on the range visit www.leatherman.com.au

Scarpa Zen Pro Outdoor Shoes The new Scarpa Zen Pro is the perfect shoe for the Australian outdoor season as it is designed to be comfortable for walkers in all conditions. The shoe is lightweight and offers sole and ankle support along with Scarpa’s Sock-Fit DV system for extra comfort and sensitivity. Scarpa Zen Pro RRP $249.95. Two colour options: Shark Silver & Cherry Lime. www.outdooragencies.com.au

Shimano Sport Camera For some fisherman, a day on the water is more than just catching fish; it’s about capturing the moment. But your epic moment could be gone in a flash if you’re not fast enough with the camera. You need a camera that is not only tough and lightweight, but will allow you to capture every second in and out of the boat. Enter the Shimano Sport Camera. The Shimano Sport Camera is an ultra-lightweight, super durable, compact multisport camera. Weighing only 86 g, it’s super simple to use and has a 135° or a super-wide 180° viewing angle. The F2.0 lens gives incredible low light performance and the battery will last more than two hours when recording in full HD. The camera is waterproof up to 10 m and is sealed against dirt, dust and mud. Optional accessories include head and chest mounts, tripods, arm extenders, polarised lens covers and cases waterproof up to 80 m. Mobile devices link via WI-FI, ANT and ANT+ to the Shimano Sport Camera to share videos and images with friends and family via SMS, email and social media. You can also change the camera settings remotely and frame a shot with your mobile device. RRP $299. www.shimanofish.com.au

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Premium Suspension from Opposite Lock The Opposite Lock Group has recently released their new range of premium quality suspension systems at lower prices and with an extended warranty period of 3 years/60,000 km. Designed to suit most popular fourwheel-drives with a range of standard or raised ride height and load carrying coil springs, leaf springs and torsion bars. Four-wheel-driving expert John ‘Roothy’ Rooth fitted an Opposite Lock suspension to his 76 Series Toyota Landcruiser then completed a gruelling 6,400 km trip through the Cape on corrugated peak season tracks and said, ‘I know what it went through and I know what I’ve put other systems through, this is really good stuff! Well done Opposite Lock, all that real world experience really paid off!’ For more information visit www.oppositelock.com.au or freecall 1800 62 44 44.

Inflatable Stand Up Paddleboard Cool Water’s Cruise SUP is an inflatable multi-purpose board offering enough stability and manoeuvrability for beginners to enjoy stand up paddleboarding. An elevated nose enables smooth travel across choppy water, high density reinforced PVC outer layer ensures the SUP is tough enough, and a 10cm thick reinforced drop stitch inner chamber makes it almost impossible for the SUP to crease. The Cool Water Cruise SUP travels in a lightweight carrycase. Just unroll and inflate. Cool Water Cruise Inflatable SUP, RRP $1099. www.kangarootentcity.com.au Pigeon Anti-Mosquito Wipes Pigeon Anti-Mosquito Wipes are DEETfree. Convenient and easy to carry, the wet tissue lets you control the amount and location of the repellent. Dermatologically tested for kids over 12 months, the wipes have a floral scent that disappears as it dries after about 30 seconds. They come in a convenient purse size pack of 12 and each wipe gives up to 6 hours’ protection. RRP $5.35 per pack and available at baby stores, pharmacies and www.made4maternity.com.au

TESTED .. Pocket Solar Power Power in your pocket is certainly a suitable slogan for the solar-powered products I tested for illumination solar. Being a fan of off-the-grid adventures as GC readers will know, I do appreciate the power of the sun to charge my smartphone – and the simpler the gadget the better. So, I was most impressed with the Lime 2 Solar Charger, which weighs 135 g and literally fits in a pocket (and neatly in a handbag!). Leave it in the sun all day and plug the phone in via a USB socket. I achieved a 20% charge in 45 minutes, but the manufacturer says in less than 3 hours the phone will be 75% charged. The Lime 2 also has a handy built-in torch. Also in the starter pack, a bargain at $50 online, is the Mandarin 2. A water resistant, solar powered light, weighing just 165 g, with an ingenious handle/stand/hanger for hands-free operation. There’s even more reason than just a good Australian designed and engineered product to buy. For every pocket solar product sold illumination gives one solar product to a family who doesn’t have power, through their program partner Kadasig Aid and Development (www.kadasigaid.com.au) that work with people living around Cebu in the central Philippines. RRP Mandarin 2 $25 and Lime 2 $30 or both in a starter pack for $50. www.illumination.solar Enter the code GOCAMPING to receive a 10% discount.

Nautic Kayak Lifter Rhino Rack now has a complete system for easily loading and unloading sit-on-top kayaks. It is the only one in the market that has an 80 kg load capacity, does not require any heavy lifting and a single person can operate it using the included winch. The unit is designed to be neatly stored on the roof of your vehicle beside your kayak when not in operation. RRP $799. www.rhinorack.com.au

Cancer Council Sunnies Cancer Council Eyewear introduces an exciting range of trendy styles in its new collection, all with sun protecting polarised lenses. Available in Cancer Council stores nationally and online at www.cancer.org.au. Prices range from $39.95 to $59.95 for premium Coverspecs. GO CA MPING AUSTR A LI A

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SUBSCRIBE AND YOU COULD WIN

STOCKMAN POD TRAILER & OUTDOOR CO NNECTION ARIA 2 TENT

valued at $6494

NEW OUTDOOR CONNECTION ARIA 2 TENT RRP $1349 n New Air Poles replace the fibreglass poles on this tent n Quick and easy to erect – simply pump up the Air Poles n Plenty of head room and internal space n Large doors and windows for maximum ventilation n Ventraflow panels for a cross flow of air down low where you sleep n Strong and durable 100 Denier Fly with 3000mm waterproofing n Inner tent size 300cm (W) x 480cm (L) (2 rooms 240cm long) n Fully enclosed porch area 200cm long n The ARIA 2 can be erected and packed up with the fly attached for easier and faster set up and pack down times n Also available is the ARIA 1 – 1 room + porch model In terms of design and quality the ARIA tents are the tents of the future. www.outdoorconnection.com.au

STOCKMAN POD TRAILER RRP $5,145 (not including bike and kayak racks). Includes side mounted jerry can holders. Delivery and On Roads not included.

n n n n n n

Winner of Australian plastics award ARMA Removable, weatherproof locking lid Hot dipped galvanised chassis Australian designed and made Off-road models available Camper trailer models now available

Specifications: 6 x 4 ft Internal, External - 3.8m L x 1.8w x 1.4h, Tare only 200kgs, Max total 750kg without brakes, 8mm thick rust proof tubs See videos and reviews at www.podtrailer.com or call 1300 725 712

Yes, I want to subscribe/renew for my chance to win the Stockman POD Trailer & Outdoor Connection ARIA 2 Tent – valued at $6494 Please:

■ Start ■ Renew my subscription ■ Send a gift subscription for ■ 2 years - 12 issues at $60 ■ 1 year - 6 issues at $33

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Post this page (or a photocopy) with your payment in a sealed envelope to: Go Camping Australia, PO Box 8369, Woolloongabba Qld 4102 Note: All subscriptions start with the next issue and include postage and handling. Payment to accompany subscription form - Not refundable. FOR SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES PLEASE PHONE (07) 3334 8010 FAX (07) 3391 5118 EMAIL donna@vinkpub.com Entries close on July 31, 2015. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize must be taken as offered. There is no cash alternative.

Join the thousands of Baroudeurs in Australia Baroudeur: an adventurer or globetrotter

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